Keeping your RV or Camper Warm

Most RVs and campers are equipped with propane furnaces that usually do a pretty good job of keeping them warm enough on cool nights.  Just set the thermostat and as long as you don't run out of propane or run your batteries down you will stay warm.  Interestingly enough, when your batteries get low the furnace fan may keep running, blowing cold air.  However, even with a good furnace, you may need extra help on really cold nights.   Often Canadian motorhomes come from the factory ready for winter use, but most made in the United States do not.  Usually you can make modifications to make them more suitable for cold weather camping if you need it but it can be expensive.  You may need extra insulation along with freeze-proofing your water systems and increasing heat through a larger or additional heating unit.

Boats have different heating and cooling problems than RVs.  Please see my post on Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature for more information on boats.  Basically, you will only find heating and cooling systems on larger yachts and not on the daysailers typically used by weekend sailors.  Fortunately, we don't often use our boats in freezing weather.

You might take advantage of all the warmth from sunlight you can get:  park so the side with the most or largest windows is facing the sun most of the day.  Solar heating won't keep your RV warm by itself but it can help keep it warmer.

One of the first things to do is to make sure you aren't throwing away heat through open windows or vents.  Make sure you roof vent(s) are closed.  It is easy to forget to close the one in the bathroom.  Avoid opening exterior doors as much as possible.  Also be sure to close curtains and drapes.  Adding reflective foam insulation to windows can help keep you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Some units may benefit from additional insulation.  For example, it was easy for me to add a Styrofoam insulation panel to the roof of a van camper.  All that was there before adding the insulation was a cardboard-like headliner.  The foam helped keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  It usually isn't practical to add insulation to the walls, ceiling, or floor or most RVs and campers, unless you are already opening them up for other repairs or modifications.  If you REALLY need extra insulation you might be able to install foam panels on the inside of the walls and put new paneling over it.  You will loose a little space inside your unit but it might be worth it.  The easiest way to do this is with Styrofoam insulation panels.  Another alternative would be to essentially build an extra wall all the way around the inside of your unit to give you room to install residential-style fiberglass insulation.  Doing it with 2x2 studs will probably double the thickness of most RV walls and insulation since most RVs have 2x2 studs in the original walls.  To get full R-13 insulation like you have at home you might need to build new wall inside using 2x4 studs.  Doing  that will use up at least 5-6"of interior space for each wall, depending on what kind of wall board you use.  One issue you will have to deal with in either case is the moldings around doors and windows, which may take some creative construction to achieve acceptable results.   And don't forget the ceiling!  Since heat rises, you want to make sure you aren't losing heat unnecessarily through the roof!  Adding insulation to the floor will likely very intrusive and expensive.  Sometimes you can reduce heat loss through floors by putting a skirt to block wind from blowing underneath the vehicle while it is parked.  For long term usage, like using your motorhome or trailer as a guest house at home, you can use plywood or other rigid panels cut to fit between the bottom of the wall and the ground.  If you want skirting during your outings, flexible panels made of vinyl or canvas will do the job.  You usually need to install snaps along the bottom edge of your unit to secure flexible panels.  Heavy duty Velcro might be an option if you don't want to drill holes in the walls of your RV.

Take advantage of every available resource to reduce heat loss.  Close curtains and drapes.  Close vents.  If there is a breeze coming under a door, roll up a towel and lay it against the crack where the breeze is coming in.  You might be losing heat under doors even if you don't feel any breeze coming in.  If you can see daylight under the door, it probably needs to be blocked to reduce heat loss.  Since heat rises, be sure to check for gaps at the top of exterior doors too.  You may be able to add weather stripping to block gaps.

In most cases adding an auxiliary heater of some kind is the easiest and least expensive way of warming up a cold RV or camper.  If you have 120 volt electrical power from a generator or shore line an electrical heater is really easy to install and use and is generally a little safer than propane heaters that consume oxygen.  Even indoor rated catalytic propane heaters that do not produce significant amounts of toxic fumes will consume oxygen to you always have to provide adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation!  You will want to take precautions with all heaters to ensure they are not too near to any combustible surface, such as curtains, drapes, upholstery, and bedding.  Also be careful using them to dry wet shoes and clothing, making sure items aren't too close.  Electric fireplaces are an attractive way to add heating capacity along with a nice cabin-like ambiance.  The ones I've used fit nicely under the dinette table.

Sometimes you might simply add an extra sweater or sweatshirt or even a jacket or dress in thermal underwear to keep YOU warmer without having to heat the entire living space of your RV or camper.  At night an extra blanket or quilt or a warmer sleeping bag might all that is needed.  Some folks like to wear warmer "bunny" pajamas and socks but many people feel claustrophobic with too much clothing in bed.  You will usually sleep best and most comfortably when dressed the way you usually sleep at home.  You can add warm rocks or something like warmed potatoes or a hot water bottle to your bedding to help ward off cold feet, just make sure they aren't hot enough to scorch the bedding or hurt your feet.

If you do a lot of cold weather camping and your existing furnace isn't sufficient to keep you comfortable you may be able to add a second furnace or upgrade the existing one.  Upgrading the existing one is usually easier and less expensive as it can take advantage of the original electrical and gas connections, fit in the old cabinet, and use the existing ducting.  Many times newer, more efficient furnaces with greater heating capacity will fit in the space of older units but sometimes you may have to modify cabinets around them to make more room.  Adding a second furnace usually requires additional wiring and gas plumbing plus venting to the outside as well as finding someplace to mount it.  Some furnaces rely on convection to circulate the heat but others may require the installation of ducting so keep that in mind when choosing and installing your new furnace.  Convection furnaces are often used in small units like slide-in campers; ducted furnaces are common in larger trailerl and motorhomes.

You might be able to improve the energy efficiency of your rig to make it easier to heat and to keep it warm.  Try to eliminate any drafts around plumbing, wiring and doors.  Minimize opening of doors.  Keep curtain, shades, and drapes closed and add reflective foam panels to cover your windows.  If you ever have access to the inside of walls, floors, and ceilings (such as during repairs or renovations) consider increasing the insulation.  The gains from adding insulation probably don't warrant opening things up just to install it so take advantage of any time you do have things apart.

Monitor your propane usage closely.  During cold weather you will use more gas for heating, cooking, and hot water.  The last thing you want to do in cold weather is run out of heating fuel!  For extended stays bring along an extra portable tank or two of propane and invest in an Extend-A-Stay system to attach them to the propane system on your RV.  These work well for an auxillary gas supply for RV appliances but since RV generators run on liquid propane they won't work when the liquid in the RV tank drops below the pickup point.  You might be able to hedge your bet for extended stays by connecting the auxillary tank long before the level in the permanent tank drops below the generator pickup. 

If you have shore power or a big battery bank and an inverter you might use an electric blanket to keep you warm at night.  There are even 12 volt electric blankets if you have enough battery reserve for it.  If you rely on a generator or solar power for your electricity you still might use an electric blanket to pre-warm you bed so it is more comfortable when you get in it and it will stay warmer longer.  You can then conserve energy by turning it off.  You might need to turn it back on a time or two during colder nights.  That might be a problem if you don't have enough battery reserve and rely on your generator and are camping where running it at night might disturb other nearby campers.

One rather extreme solution, is to purchase a different unit, one that was built for cold weather use.  Many Canadian models come from the factory already suitable for cold weather operation, including freeze protection for the plumbing and sufficient furnace capacity.  Some units manufactured in the United States can be purchased with winterization packages but most standard units will not be suitable for winter camping without additional modifications.  To convert an existing RV for cold weather operation you will need to freeze protect the fresh water and waste water systems as well as improving insulation and upgrading the heating system.

Heat it up!

How To Dress For Camping, RVing, and Boating

Is dressing for camping,RVing, and boating really worth writing an article about?  You might not think so, yet a lot of novice campers and RVers do have questions.  I will try to address some of these questions in this post.  First off, fashion shouldn't be your primary concern.  You should be focused on choosing apparel that fits the weather and is comfortable, functional and suited to your planned activities.  The casual environment of outdoor activities provides a lot of flexibility and can be a good place to make use of older, perhaps a little out-of-fashion articles, that can save money.  Fortunately, there are a lot of options so that a lot of what works well for camping and other outdoor activities can be fairly good looking too.  This is second post on this general topic.  For additional information see Camp Clothing.

One of the first considerations for how to dress will be the local climate.  You will need to consider average and immediate weather for the area you are heading into and the season of your outing.  How you dress for a summer trip to the beach will be very different from a snow-camping trip in winter!

The second major thing to keep in mind is what kind of activities will you be enjoying?   How your dress for a picnic in the park will be different from how your dress for hiking in the mountains or sunbathing at the beach.  Some activities, such as riding dirt bikes or mountain bikes will demand special clothing and Personal Protective Equipment.  DO NOT overlook wearing proper PPE for any activity for which it is prescribed!  The safety and protection provided by proper PPE is worth its cost and deviation from fashion.  And, it could be said, wearing proper PPE IS the most fashionable way to dress!

Some general guideline for choosing appropriate clothing for your camping trips will include bringing optional clothing to allow you to adapt to changes in weather and to dress in layers to accommodate changes in temperature during the day or as dictated by differing levels of activity.  Optional clothing also gives you something to change into in case of any accidents that might soak, soil, or damage your clothing.  

 In general you will want to wear comfortable, sturdy clothing for most outings.  Camping often involves sitting on the ground so you want something that is durable and resists dirt.  Denim pants are a very common and popular choice for most situations.  Thin slacks, not so much.   Shorts might be a good option for trips to the beach or lake or other hot summer days, but not if you plan to be hiking where your may encounter brush that could scratch or scrape your legs.  Short sleeved shirt are often preferred for hot weather but you might actually feel cooler in a loose-fitting, long sleeved shirt that will shade your arms from the sun and allow perspiration to evaporate to help keep you cool. Think about how desert nomads dress: loose fitting robes that shade them from head to toe.

Footwear should be chosen carefully to support the activities you will be involved in.  Comfortable canvas shoes are usually adequate unless you plan to do a lot of hiking in which case good fitting, broken in hiking boots would be more appropriate.  Of course you need proper boot for riding horses and OHVs.  A lot of folks like sandals or flip-flops for beach trips, but I have seen way too many people with nasty sunburns on their feet from wearing them.  Remember, your feet are probably fully covered by other footwear most of the time so the exposed skin will be particularly sensitive to sunburn.

Participation in water sports -- swimming, wading, diving, tubing, rafting, boating, water-skiing, and wake-boarding -- suggests appropriate swimwear.  You may also want to wear some kind of water shoes to protect your feet from hot sand on the beaches and sharp rocks or debris in the water.  You may need suitable deck shoes to avoid damaging the surface on you boat and providing adequate traction on the deck.  In colder weather or when venturing out on cold water to wear a wet suit for extra protection if you fall into cold water.  Of course many maritime activities will also require wearing  proper Personal Flotation Device, such  a life vest.  You will usually need to wear deck shoes on any boat to avoid damaging the deck.  Shoes worn elsewhere often have grit in the soles that can do serious damage to deck surfaces.  Deck shoes are also needed to ensure proper traction on wet, slippery decks for safety.

Speaking of Personal Protection, you should ALWAYS wear the right Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) for the activity you are participating in.  Just about all outdoor activities have specialized PPE -- helmets, boots, and body armor for off road enthusiasts, helmets and gloves for bicyclists, high visibility clothing for hunters, and flotation devices for boaters.   But even less extreme tasks associated with camping really requires some PPE:  gloves and eye protection when cutting firewood and lighting campfires, oven mitts or hot pad when handling hot pots and pans, even broad-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and sunblock for almost all outdoor activities.

An often overlooked aspect of camp clothing especially on short outings is bringing along alternate items to change into if something happens to your normal garb.  You may be dressed perfectly for your planned adventure when you head out the door, but what happens if your clothing becomes damaged or even just wet?  It is possible to become hypothermic when wet even in mild weather.  You will loose body heat through wet clothing 25 times as fast as through dry clothing.  Damaged clothing may or may not need to be changed.  A small tear in the arm or leg of an item of clothing might not be much of a problem, but what will you do if you split out the entire seam of your britches or your shirt gets caught on something and badly ripped?  It will be a really good thing if you have something in your RV, camper, or car to change into.  Having a change of clothing is even a good idea for an afternoon picnic!

Planning for changes in the weather may prompt you to bring along things like rain suits, ponchos, jackets, and warm gloves.  Rain gear may be especially necessary when headed into the mountains, even if rain isn't the local forecast.  Many mountains are capable of producing their own micro-climates.  I worked at a resort one summer where you could almost set your watch by the daily afternoon rain, even when the weatherman hadn't predicted rain for the general area.

Dress right!

What Makes Good Tinder and Kindling for Campfires

The first step in building most fires in fireplaces, stoves, or campfires, is setting up the tinder and kindling.  So, exactly what is tinder and kindling and where do you get it?  How do you use it?

Tinder is finely shredded fuel that can be easily ignited by a match or other fire starter.  Some commercial flint and steel fire starter systems include a magnesium rod that can be scraped to get shavings that are easily ignited by sparks from the flint and steel.  Magnesium shavings also have the advantage that they are not affected by moisture so they can be lit even when wet, a nice feature if you are trying to start a fire in the rain.  Other common materials used as tinder for building fires includes dry grass, leaves, or weeds, pine needles, paper or cloth, real cotton balls, and wood shavings.  Tinder needs to be very dry and very fine.  Dry, crumpled newspaper makes excellent tinder.  Real cotton balls, not synthetic ones, work well (synthetics melt instead of burn).  Natural sources of tinder (dry grass, leaves, weeds, pine needles, etc) might need to be rubbed between your hands to grind them down into finer pieces that will light easily,.  While you often find bundles of  fire wood and kindling for sale at home centers and near campgrounds, tinder doesn't show up nearly as often.  I guess they just expect you to make or provide your own.  One really good source of tinder is something call fat wood.  You can sometimes find it for sale where firewood is sold.  Fat wood is pine heartwood that is is super saturated with resin.  It occurs naturally in the rotting stumps and tap roots of dead pine trees.  For starting fires without matches your tinder needs to be something that can be ignited by a spark, like paper, cotton balls, magnesium shavings, or very fine and dry grass or wood shavings.  If using cloth avoid synthetics which are likely to melt instead of ignite.  Cotton, linen and wool are good choices.  Dryer lint from synthetics will most likely melt but lint from denim, cotton, linen, and wool will work very well.

Tinder is usually formed into a tinder bundle that can be ignited and positioned in your fuel stack to ignite it.  You can also place it under your kindling before you light it.

                                                  

Kindling is the next size of fuel for your fire.  A good size for kindling is 1/4" thick, small twigs or 1' wide x 1/4" thick pieces split from your firewood.  Softwoods are usually easier to light than hardwoods.  Hardwoods are often desirable for the main fuel because they tend to burn hotter and give off more heat per volume than softwoods, but for kindling it is a good idea to have something that will light easily.  You can usually split kindling off pieces of commercial firewood using just a hand-held hatchet.  Be sure to hold the piece of wood with a stick instead of your fingers.  Sticks won't feel the pain and are a lot easier to replace than you fingers if your accidentally chop in the wrong place!

If you plan to use flint and steel or a fire piston to start your fire you might need to bring some prepared tinder with you.  It isn't always easy to find dry materials in the wild that are suitable for starting a fire without matches.  Real cotton balls (not synthetic cosmetic wipes) and char cloth are easy to prepare, light weight, and take up little space in your pocket or pack.  For starting fires with matches and lighters you can use dry grass, weeds, leaves, pine needles, or wood shavings.  If these are really dry they might work for starting fires using flint and steel or rubbing two sticks together.  Personally the only time I would want to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match!

Some types of fire starters might include tinder.  The ones you make at home using paper egg cartons and wax usually contain shredded paper, sawdust or wood shavings that, together with the paper egg carton, comprises a bit of built in tinder.  Sometimes it is enough to get things going but more often you may need to put more tinder around it to get enough flame to ignite kindling.  Most of the commercial fire starters I've seen are designed as large ignition sources (think a really big match) and don't include a lot of tinder.   So plan on using enough tinder and kindling even if you are using fire starters.

Tinder is usually formed into a kind of birds nest shape about the size of a softball to make a good base for starting a fire.   There should be an easy place to ignite it, usually a kind of thin area along one edge or a hole in the middle.  When igniting tinder using flint and steel or a fire piston you will need to be able to blow on the embers until they begin to flame up enough to be self sustaining.  Many people like to  hold the tinder bundle in their hands.  Always use heavy leather gloves or a leather pad to protect your hands if you choose this option.  Unless you are practiced in doing this, set the tinder bundle on a fireproof surface while getting it going.

Kindling is the next step after tinder.  Kindling is small twigs or little pieces of fire wood, sometimes as small as a wooden match with larger pieces as thick as your fingers or even your thumb.  Pieces larger than your thumb are usually too large for good kindling.  Kindling is often made by splitting larger pieces of firewood but could be comprised of branches too large to be used for tinder.  Split kindling tends to ignite and burn more easily than natural branches.  You can sometimes buy bundles of kindling along with bundles of firewood.  The only real difference is how thin the pieces have been split although sometimes kindling will also be made of softwoods even when fire wood bundles are made of hardwoods.  Split kindling will usually be up to about 1'' wide and 1/4" thick.  Softwoods generally light easier and burn faster than hardwoods, but hardwoods typically put out more BTUs of heat and may last longer.  Yeah, I know, I already said all this, but it really is worth repeating.  I like softwoods for kindling because it lights easier.  Ultimately your choice of firewood will probably depend mostly on availability with price being second and BTU content third.  Given availability and a good price, hardwood will give you more heat per volume than softwood.

Once you have setup your tinder bundle and kindling you will want to build your main campfire fuel stack around it, using either the log cabin (square) or tipi (cone) method.  As an alternative you might want to use a top-down method where you stack the kindling and tinder on top of fuel stack.  Building such a fuel stack is similar to the log cabin method but instead of simply building a square frame around the tinder and kindling you stack several layers of fuel leaving gaps between the pieces and stacking alternating layers in opposite directions.  A top down fire will last longer without needing additional fuel, which can be useful if you have other tasks to attend to while the fire burns.  For more about the top down method see my previous post on How To Build A Campfire Safely.

Light 'em up!

LED Lighting for RVs, Campers, and Boats

LED lights are becoming very popular.   Because they use less energy and generate less heat than incandescent bulbs the are particularly useful for outdoor recreational applications.  Having flashlights and lanterns that last for days or more instead of hours is a real blessing for campers, RVers, and boaters.  Reducing the battery drain on RVs and boats is significant.  Anytime you rely on batteries to power your lighting, whether they are flashlight batteries or big RV batteries, LEDs are going to reduce the amount of power drain and greatly extend how long you can use your lights.

While the energy saving benefits of LED lighting delivers the most impressive results for RVs and campers, updating the lights on your tow vehicle or even your daily driver can be helpful.  Since most of the time you are using your lights on these vehicles, the engine is running, it doesn't have much impact on the battery like it does on RVs, campers, and boats but LED stop and turn signals can be brighter and therefore safer than incandescant lights and some are said to respond a fraction of a second faster, giving other drivers a little more time to react to prevent accidents.  LED headlight provide great illumination and might help keep you from running your battery down so fast if accidentally left on.

For many years the classic Coleman gas lantern has been the staple for bright, white light for campers.  When I was a kid we were still using kerosene lanterns in our barns and for camping.  I really envied those well-heeled campers who could afford the bright, white Coleman gas lanterns.  Looked like they had a 100 watt electric light in camp!  Today, LED lanterns are capable of producing light that competes pretty well with the classic Coleman lantern level.  There is one significant difference:  the difference in heat.  Coleman lanterns put out quite a bit of heat; LED lanterns generate very little heat.  One of my friends used only a Coleman lantern to heat his camping van and lots of people use them to warm their tents.  On warm nights that extra heat might not be welcome and the fire danger associated with using flame-powered gas lanterns in tents was always of concern.  Modern LED lanterns provide safe, cool, long-lasting light in any location.   There are also LED lanterns with built-in solar battery chargers so you can use them again and again by just leaving them out in the sun during the day.  Some of these lanterns even have USB ports to charge your cell phone from the solar chargers.  Rechargeable lanterns generally cost more than battery powered lanterns but you get back the extra cost in convenience and by savings by not buying batteries.

LED lights are a clear advantage when you are relying on battery power, like in a boat or RV or a flashlight.   The low energy draw gives you many more hours of light than you get from incandescent or even fluorescent lights.  I visitor once left the light (incandescent) on the the bathroom of my motorhome one afternoon and by evening the big 12 volt deep cycle battery was dead!  I left an LED lantern powered by 3 C cell batteries on over night in my barn and it was still bright the next morning and continued working well for months without changing the batteries.  You can buy LED bulbs to replace most of the incandescent bulbs in your RV, boat or other vehicle.  The better quality ones are still a bit pricey, around $10 each, but there are cheap imports available if you don't need really bright lights.  And, since LED bulbs last many times as long as incandescent bulbs, even the more expensive ones will pay for themselves over time in addition to reducing battery usage.

LED bulbs are also less fragile than conventional incandescent bulbs.  The hot filament in incandescent bulbs is all too susceptible to vibration or being jarred.  LED bulbs are kind of a solid state technology that is far less affected by sudden movement.

LED headlights are now also available.  The come in different "colors" or color temperatures too, ranging from similar to ordinary headlights to a bright white that is almost blue.  They offer excellent highway and off road performance and use significantly less energy than regular headlights.   BTW, the color temperature has nothing to do with how warm the bulb is to the touch.  It measures the "warmth" of how the light appears, with warmer temperatures tending toward the yellows, reds, and oranges.

Navigation lights on boats are needed anytime the boat is operated after dark as are mooring lights in many situations.  The reduced energy consumption greatly reduces the chances of running your batteries dead before dawn.   LEDs are especially helpful on sailboats that don't always have a motor driven generator or alternator to supply power for lighting.  Many of  the interior fixtures in the cabins on boats, just like interior lights on campers and RVs, can be converted to LEDs for even more savings.  Some LED lights may emit signals that can interfere with radio signals so make sure any LEDs you install on the mast near or anyplace near a radio antenna is rated to not produce radio interference.

Converting most fixtures to LED is usually as simple as changing the bulb.  LED headlights may require some additional wiring changes, but most interior lights, dash lights, turn signals, and clearance markers can be converted by simply replacing the existing bulbs with their LED equivalents.

LED replacement bulbs can be purchased just about anyplace that sells 12 volt light bulbs for vehicles.   I have found they typically run about $10 for a package of 2 bulbs.  I tried buying less expensive bulbs on the Internet and found they weren't nearly as bright as the 12 volt incandescent bulbs I was replacing.  That was OK for my RV porch lights, but not for work or reading lights.  I would avoid using sub-standard bulbs in brake lights or turn signals where reduced brightness could be a safety factor and might not even be legal.

LED bulbs are also available to replace most regular 120 volt light bulbs.  Doing so may reduce the load on an RV or boat generator and even reduce your electric bill at home.  Be aware, some people are sensitive to the difference between LED and incandescent lights, so check to see if you or anyone in your family has this sensitivity before changing all your bulbs.  You might have to try swapping a bulb or two to find out.

LED flashlights are a real boon to campers.   LED bulbs are less fragile and use less energy than incandescent bulbs.  I once left a 17 LED lantern on overnight in my barn and it still worked find for several months afterwards before needing new batteries.  An incandescent flashlight would have run the batteries down long before the night was even over!  Small, "pencil light" sized LED flashlights will fit easily in your pack or pocket.  They put out a surprising amount of light and last a really long time.  I keep one in my dirt bike tool kit.  They don't have to be expensive.  I get mine at Harbor Freight and even sometimes Dollar Tree.

Let's LED!

Dollar Tree Update for RVers, Campers and Boaters

For more than 30 years Dollar Tree held fast to their tag line  "Everything's a dollar".   Well, not any more!  My last visit to Dollar Tree was quite a surprise.  Now nearly everything is $1.25!  I looked it up online and found this is a change that is being rolled out to all the Dollar Tree stores.  If yours hasn't changed yet, it soon will.  Actually, they do still have a few items at $l.00, just as they used to occasionally have had items at less than $1.00.  Got to say a sudden 25% increase was a bit of a shock and a big disappointment!  However, even at $1.25 a lot of what they have can still be a bargain for RVers, OHVers, campers, and boaters.  Interestingly enough I recently read an online article that said we could expect more national chains of dollar stores in the near future!  Apparently they can be quite profitable!  Sometimes you may actually pay more per unit at Dollar Tree than you would at name brand stores because the size of items might be smaller.  However, the smaller size is often a real benefit to RVers and campers and low cost makes it fairly reasonable to replace used up or expired items as needed.

Also recently notices some new items higher prices, like $5.00.  So it looks like Dollar Tree is moving toward the pricing structure of their sister store, Dollar General.  So, now we will have to be more careful when shopping at Dollar Tree to avoid unpleasant surprises at checkout.  One more strike against them.

I understand that the cost of goods is and has been rising for years.  We see it almost every day.  Most retail stores routinely adjust prices as their costs go up, but, if your niche is defined by ''Everything's a dollar!" you can't do that.  While I respect the economic reality that rising costs from suppliers demand increasing retail prices, I found the HUGE 25% increase at Dollar Tree quite surprising and irritating.  Guess they have to make up for lost time or maybe they are hedging against the continuing increase in their cost of goods!  Not sure I can suggest any really helpful alternatives.  Perhaps they could follow the pattern of Family Dollar and Dollar General -- that is, to offer some higher cost items at higher prices, but still maintain the dollar price on as many items as possible.  Since they are all owned by the same company that would seem to make sense.  However, that being said, the consistency of prices at Dollar Tree has always been a defining factor that has motivated my loyalty -- along with knowing that ''Everything's a dollar".  So, I suppose, having a uniform price of $1.25 may still have its advantages and many things may still be a better bargain than at "regular" stores.  However, the 25% price increase has already affected MY shopping habits.  I used to often stop by Dollar Tree just to pick up one or two items, like toothpaste or deodorant, and by the time I reached the register I typically had about $27 worth of merchandise in my cart.  No more.  It used to be easy to justify adding just about anything to the cart since it was ''only a dollar".  But now I will be measuring each item more carefully.  During my last several visits I spent far less than my typical $27 a visit (usually under $10!), even at the higher $1.25 prices and I expect I will continue to do so.  I am definitely buying less at Dollar Tree than I used to.

Is Dollar Tree still a viable source of supplies for your camping and boating activities?   Yes, I would think so.  Even at $1.25 their prices are still a lot less than you will usually pay at regular retail outlets.  Sometimes the price per item or price per ounce may add up to more than larger sizes at regular stores, but the smaller sizes (and lower prices) are often very helpful for campers etc.  For example, getting each plate or bowl or saucer for just $1.25 is pretty inviting, but consider how much you will spend for a complete 8-place set (3x8x$1.25 = $30).  You can often buy a full set of dinnerware for around $24.

Does this mean I will stop shopping at Dollar Tree?  Probably not, but it will very likely mean I will be buying fewer items each time I go there.  In my opinion, they will find they have shot themselves in the foot with this new pricing policy.  Instead of increasing profits through higher prices expect they will see a drop in sales with a corresponding drop profits.  Historically I have often gone in just to pick up one thing and by the time I got to the register I usually spent about $27. My total for each of several recent trips since the price change was under $10!  So I guess I should thank them for continuing to save me money, just in a different and less rewarding way.  Funny how that additional 25 cents has impacted what I buy, or rather, don't buy!

Dollar Tree   Dollar Twenty-five Tree!

OHV Riding In Cold Weather

Why would anyone want to ride an OHV in cold weather?  Well, usually we don't if we have a choice -- unless you have an ATV or side-by-side with a snow plow!   But sometimes we may get the urge to go riding when the weather isn't cooperating or sometimes we might just get caught out on the trails by bad weather sneaking up on us, which can happen all too often even when we try to keep an eye on the weather!  And old margarine commercial used to say ''It's not nice to fool Mother Nature!" but Mother Nature doesn't have any qualms about fooling us!

Most OHV riding is done in the summertime or in late spring or early fall when temperatures are moderate.   However, you may want to take advantage of riding opportunities in colder weather or you may find the weather turns unexpectedly cold on an otherwise warm outing.  Either way, it is good to be prepared for riding in cold weather.

Enclosed OHVs, like some UTVs or side-by-sides, can be fully enclosed and sometimes even have heaters.   If your UTV has removable windows, be sure you install them before embarking on any rides in cold weather.  Even if it doesn't have a heater the enclosed space will keep you out of the wind preserve body and engine heat to help keep you warmer.  Do not hang anything in window areas that will block your view.

Open OHVs, such as dirt bikes, ATVs, and snowmobiles will require dressing warm.   Some UTVs and side-by-sides have more enclosed spaces and sometimes even have heaters to keep you warm.  If not, you will need to dress warm to enjoy riding in them too.  Dressing warm usually means dressing in layers so you can adjust to changing temperatures while out on a ride.  You might be surprised how quickly you will warm up once you start riding.  You should always feel a little cooler just standing around before you start out.  If you start getting warm enough to sweat you will need to open some zippers or stop and shed some layers.  The last thing you want when riding in cold weather is to get sweaty.  As soon as you activity level decreases you will get very cold very fast.

Riding in REALLY cold weather means you many have to deal with frost on your ATV and UTV windshields and sometimes even on your face shield or goggles and icy spots on roads.  Because OHV windshields are usually made of plastic instead of glass you don't want to scrape the ice off like you do your car.  It will scratch the plastic.  Better to cover the windshields at night so there is no frost on them in the morning.  If you need to clear frost off an OHV windshield, a little warm water or water mixed with rubbing alcohol may help.  Same thing with face shields and goggles.  Once you start out be aware that it is likely there will be frozen spots in shady areas of roads and trails.  On pavement that may mean black ice.  On dirt roads and trails it may be unmelted snow.  In any case, exercise extra caution crossing these areas, especially if they are on a curve.  Another hidden hazard is soft spots in frozen ground that can trap you or throw you off course.  You might also find frost on exposed seats on dirt bikes and ATVs left unprotected.  This is easily solved by wiped the seats with a soft towel -- or prevented by protecting the seat when left unattended.   

Cold weather is going to be more of an issue for riders of dirt bikes and ATVs than for drivers of UTVs and other off-road vehicles.  Even fairly open UTVs provide significantly more protection against cold wind and weather than you get on a dirt bike or ATV.  Some, but certainly not all UTVs are even equipped with a heater like those found in cars and trucks to help ward off the chill.   Snowmobilers sometimes add electric hand warmers and these might even be adapted to dirt bikes and ATVs if they produce enough electrical power.  Note, the magneto on machines not designed for electrical lighting may not be sufficient to operate electrical accessories without being upgraded.

Often riding in cold weather means riding in snow.  You may be able to negotiate short runs in snow on regular off-road knobby tires but if you plan to do a lot of riding in deep snow you will want more aggressive paddle tires like those used in sand.  Some riders add spikes to their tires to increase traction on ice and packed snow.  Take care if you choose to implement this technique.  Improper installing of the spikes can result it flat tires, tire damage, or spikes being ejected and injuring riders or bystanders.  Riding in snow  may also necessitate dark goggles or sunglasses to prevent snow blindness.

Goggles and face shields are more likely to fog up on the inside on cold days.  To prevent fogging apply an antifog solution to the inside of the lens.  A favorite among off roaders is brand named "Cat Crap", which may be kind of  turn off for some people but it really does work better than just about anything else I've tried.  Sometimes, in a pinch you might use an old diver's trick:  use your own saliva.  It won't work as good as "Cat Crap" but it is better than nothing and, unless you are dehydrated, you should always have some available.  Note:  in below freezing temperatures it may freeze on your goggles so you might want to test it on another surface before ruining your vision for the rest of the ride.

A very common problem for cold weather riding in all OHVs is cold hands.  The usual solution is to wear warmer gloves.  I like Windchill gloves for dirt bike riding or adding glove liners.  I have found that cheap knit gloves (sometimes even found at dollar stores) work pretty well inside my off-road gloves. Jersey gloves are usually too bulky but inexpensive knit gloves have worked well for us. Chemical hand warming pads are also helpful for keeping hands warm inside gloves or mittens.  BTW, mittens are usually warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  Mittens can be a very good choice for passengers in a UTV.  Chemical hand warmers can be tucked into your gloves and chemical foot warmers into your boots if you have trouble keeping your extremities warm.  They even have larger sizes you can put on your back and tummy if you need more warmth.

Cold weather riding usually means dressing in layers, more than you normally use, from head to toe.  Where you may normally wear a helmet and goggles you might need to add a balaclava or face mask to help keep your head warm.  You will probably want to wear a Windchill jersey instead of a regular one and, if it is cold enough, perhaps thermal underwear beneath the jersey.  When it gets colder, you will want a warmer coat like an Enduro jacket to keep your body warm. In really cold weather you may need something heavier and warmer than an Enduro jacket, maybe even a parka.  You will definitely want warmer gloves or glove liners and may even want to add chemical hand warmers.  I have found that inexpensive knit gloves work pretty well under my riding gloves and are a lot less expensive than glove liners.  Chemical hand warmers are small and light weight so you can usually slip them into your gloves.  They even make large body warmers if you need extra warmth on your torso.  Riding pants are already fairly heavy but on colder days you will probably want to add thermal underwear.  Motocross socks are usually thick enough to provide sufficient insulation on colder days, but you might want to add sock layers or chemical foot warmers if your feet still get cold.   BTW, those chemical hand and foot warmers do begin to cool down after a while.  You can usually warm them up again by taking them out and shaking them so more air can react with the chemicals to give you a boost of warmth.

Don't overdress!  Riders sometimes have a tendency to dress too warmly.  You should feel a little bit cool (not cold or chilled) when standing around before you start your ride.  If you are already comfortably warm before you start riding you will most likely get too hot fairly quickly once you start riding.   Over dressing can cause you to sweat, which in turn will make you colder and even possibly risk hypothermia!  You will probably need to dress warmer riding a dirt bike or an ATV and less warmer riding in n enclosed and heated UTV.  You might not even to dress as warmly in an unheated UTV as the enclosed or at least partially enclosed body shelters you from most of the wind and can help capture both body and engine heat to keep you warmer than on an open OHV,  Snowmobile suits or similar insulated coveralls provide a lot of warmth but can it can be difficult to safely cool down as your level of activity generates excess body heat on aggressive rides.

Rain can catch up to you even on warm summer days.  If rain is in the forecast it is wise to have rain gear.  A complete rain suit (jacket and pants) that covers your whole body provides the best protection but even carrying a lightweight water resistant nylon jacket or a cheap plastic poncho and give you some respite from the rain if you get caught out on the trail.  I try to always have a poncho in my tool bag or a handy pocket.  It might not do the best job keeping me dry while riding, but at least it helps some and can keep most of the rain off me when stopped.  Sometimes it makes good sense to pull off the trail for a while when it starts to rain.  Even the partial protection provided by getting under a tree can help keep you a little bit dryer.  If  you start out in the rain or know you will be riding in the rain, start out wearing a rain suit.  Otherwise tuck a lightweight jacket or poncho in your tool kit or pack in case you get caught in the rain out on the trails.  Your need for rain bear might be reduced if you have a UTV with a windshield and roof to protect you from the rain.  Even a cheap plastic poncho can help keep your torso drier and warmer and that is essential to maintaining core temperature to prevent hypothermia.

 If you do get wet out on the trail, try to find someplace to dry off as soon as possible.   You will lose body heat about 25 times faster when you are wet than when you are dry and you can even get hypothermia on fairly warm days as your body loses heat.

A warm place to recover from a cold ride can be more than just comfortable, it may be necessary to prevent hypothermia or other cold related illnesses.  If your base camp includes an RV, leave the furnace set to about 70F when you go out riding so it is warm when you return.  If you are staying in a tent, make sure it is closed up while your are away.  If you have a tent heater, start it up as soon as you can when you get back from your ride.  Leave heavy, cold, wet clothing outside.  Remove all wet clothing.  Put on warm, dry clothes or wrap yourself in a blanket or sleeping bag until you warm up.  Having something warm to drink or maybe even to eat when you get back to camp can also be helpful.  Hot coffee, tea, and hot cocoa are always a hit.  So is hot soup or chili.  That is really easy to do if you have a microwave in your RV but it will take a little more time if you have to heat things up on a camp stove or campfire.  A campfire, however, may be pleasant and helpful anytime.  I like to prepare my campfire before I go out on a cold day to ride so it is ready to light when I get back.  A warm campfire is something that can be enjoyed by everyone in your riding party.  For a nice, warm, cold weather snack around the campfire we like to make a dip of about half chili and half cream cheese, warm it up, and serve it with the big Frito's Scoops corn chips.  And nothing warms you quite a quickly and comfortably than a nice hot beverage.  Many folks like coffee or tea but I prefer the thicker texture and nutrition of hot cocoa.

Stay warm!

RV and Marine Toilet Paper

You will often see advice warning against using ordinary toilet paper in RVs and marine toilets.  This is based on the stated need for RV and marine toilet paper to break down properly so it doesn't interfere with tank sensors or clog tanks and drains.  The same thing applies to porta-pottis used for camping and on boats.  But, is it really necessary?  Well, yes and no.  Yes you do need to be careful what you put into RV and marine toilets and porta-pottis.  No, it doesn't necessarily have to be the expensive RV or marine branded toilet paper.

I recently read an article on line from an RVer who has used "ordinary" toilet paper in their RV for more than two decades without having any issues.  Some popular name brands including Scott and Charmin, claim their products are "septic and sewer safe" and claim they are OK to use in RV and marine toilets.  Anything that is indeed septic safe, might be OK to use in RV and marine toilets, but, remember, septic tanks are lot bigger and have a lot longer to break down waste than RV and marine holding tanks do.

So, what is so special about RV toilet paper?  Two things come immediately to mind:  higher cost and lower quality.  OK, I guess that sounds a little cynical.  The lower quality is usually attributed to the need for it to break down quickly.   Light weight, thin, single ply sheets for example.  The higher cost is simply a marketing gimmick.   So, do you really need it or not?  Well, yes and no!  You must use a toilet paper that will break down appropriately but it does not have to be the expensive product branded for RV use.  Many cheap single ply brands of ordinary toilet paper will break down properly.

If you have any concerns about whether your preferred toilet paper is OK to us in your RV or marine toilet, there is a simple test you can do.  Put a sheet or two into a quart jar filled with water and shake it.  If if breaks down quickly, it is OK.  For an idea of what not-OK tissue does, do the same thing with a facial tissue.  You will probably see it doesn't break down for a long, long time.  If you see similar results with any toilet paper, do not use that in your RV or marine toilet.  Anything that breaks down quickly is OK.  I typically use cheap toilet paper from Dollar Tree.

While it appears that most toilet paper will be safe to use in RV toilets, so-called flushable wipes are not.  Just try a flushable wipe in the above mentioned test and you will see why.  It will remain in tact for hours if not weeks!  Things like that will definitely cause problems in RV holding tanks.

One other caution:  don't use too much toilet paper.  If things get extra messy, flush before you create a big clump of paper in the toilet.  Large clumps are more likely to cause build up and clogs and will be slower to dissolve.   Don't be too stingy with adding water for each flush.   You don't want to waste water, but you do want to use enough to get the job done!  Every flush at home uses 3-5 gallons of water, depending on the age and efficiency of the toilet.  You need enough water in your black water tank to allow solids to break down and be flushed out when dumping.  As a basic rule, I suggest at least filling the narrow well at the bottom of your RV toilet with water before depositing solid waste.  It will help control initial odors as well as help with flushing and break down.  Then be generous when flushing, both to clean the bowl and to provide enough liquid in the black water tank for proper breakdown and disposal of waste.

Toilet paper with multiple layers and with embossing that compresses the fibers will  break down slower than simple, single layer products.   Likewise, any dyes or perfumes that may have been added can interfere with holding tank chemicals.  In order to save money, I usually use the cheap toilet paper I can buy at dollar stores instead of buying expensive "RV toilet paper".  However, since that is usually single layer it might not be strong enough for everyone.  Like the author of the above mentioned article, I have used cheap toilet paper for nearly 40 years of RVing, camping, and boating without any problems.  If you have any questions about what is safe for you to use, do the simple test described a couple of paragraphs above.  If your favorite residential paper passes the test, feel free to use it in your RV, boat, and porta-potti.  If it fails find an alternative that breaks down properly.

Flush well!