LED Lighting for RVs, Campers, and Boats

LED lights are becoming very popular.   Because they use less energy and generate less heat than incandescent bulbs the are particularly useful for outdoor recreational applications.  Having flashlights and lanterns that last for days or more instead of hours is a real blessing for campers, RVers, and boaters.  Reducing the battery drain on RVs and boats is significant.  Anytime you rely on batteries to power your lighting, whether they are flashlight batteries or big RV batteries, LEDs are going to reduce the amount of power drain and greatly extend how long you can use your lights.

While the energy saving benefits of LED lighting delivers the most impressive results for RVs and campers, updating the lights on your tow vehicle or even your daily driver can be helpful.  Since most of the time you are using your lights on these vehicles, the engine is running, it doesn't have much impact on the battery like it does on RVs, campers, and boats but LED stop and turn signals can be brighter and therefore safer than incandescant lights and some are said to respond a fraction of a second faster, giving other drivers a little more time to react to prevent accidents.  LED headlight provide great illumination and might help keep you from running your battery down so fast if accidentally left on.

For many years the classic Coleman gas lantern has been the staple for bright, white light for campers.  When I was a kid we were still using kerosene lanterns in our barns and for camping.  I really envied those well-heeled campers who could afford the bright, white Coleman gas lanterns.  Looked like they had a 100 watt electric light in camp!  Today, LED lanterns are capable of producing light that competes pretty well with the classic Coleman lantern level.  There is one significant difference:  the difference in heat.  Coleman lanterns put out quite a bit of heat; LED lanterns generate very little heat.  One of my friends used only a Coleman lantern to heat his camping van and lots of people use them to warm their tents.  On warm nights that extra heat might not be welcome and the fire danger associated with using flame-powered gas lanterns in tents was always of concern.  Modern LED lanterns provide safe, cool, long-lasting light in any location.   There are also LED lanterns with built-in solar battery chargers so you can use them again and again by just leaving them out in the sun during the day.  Some of these lanterns even have USB ports to charge your cell phone from the solar chargers.  Rechargeable lanterns generally cost more than battery powered lanterns but you get back the extra cost in convenience and by savings by not buying batteries.

LED lights are a clear advantage when you are relying on battery power, like in a boat or RV or a flashlight.   The low energy draw gives you many more hours of light than you get from incandescent or even fluorescent lights.  I visitor once left the light (incandescent) on the the bathroom of my motorhome one afternoon and by evening the big 12 volt deep cycle battery was dead!  I left an LED lantern powered by 3 C cell batteries on over night in my barn and it was still bright the next morning and continued working well for months without changing the batteries.  You can buy LED bulbs to replace most of the incandescent bulbs in your RV, boat or other vehicle.  The better quality ones are still a bit pricey, around $10 each, but there are cheap imports available if you don't need really bright lights.  And, since LED bulbs last many times as long as incandescent bulbs, even the more expensive ones will pay for themselves over time in addition to reducing battery usage.

LED bulbs are also less fragile than conventional incandescent bulbs.  The hot filament in incandescent bulbs is all too susceptible to vibration or being jarred.  LED bulbs are kind of a solid state technology that is far less affected by sudden movement.

LED headlights are now also available.  The come in different "colors" or color temperatures too, ranging from similar to ordinary headlights to a bright white that is almost blue.  They offer excellent highway and off road performance and use significantly less energy than regular headlights.   BTW, the color temperature has nothing to do with how warm the bulb is to the touch.  It measures the "warmth" of how the light appears, with warmer temperatures tending toward the yellows, reds, and oranges.

Navigation lights on boats are needed anytime the boat is operated after dark as are mooring lights in many situations.  The reduced energy consumption greatly reduces the chances of running your batteries dead before dawn.   LEDs are especially helpful on sailboats that don't always have a motor driven generator or alternator to supply power for lighting.  Many of  the interior fixtures in the cabins on boats, just like interior lights on campers and RVs, can be converted to LEDs for even more savings.  Some LED lights may emit signals that can interfere with radio signals so make sure any LEDs you install on the mast near or anyplace near a radio antenna is rated to not produce radio interference.

Converting most fixtures to LED is usually as simple as changing the bulb.  LED headlights may require some additional wiring changes, but most interior lights, dash lights, turn signals, and clearance markers can be converted by simply replacing the existing bulbs with their LED equivalents.

LED replacement bulbs can be purchased just about anyplace that sells 12 volt light bulbs for vehicles.   I have found they typically run about $10 for a package of 2 bulbs.  I tried buying less expensive bulbs on the Internet and found they weren't nearly as bright as the 12 volt incandescent bulbs I was replacing.  That was OK for my RV porch lights, but not for work or reading lights.  I would avoid using sub-standard bulbs in brake lights or turn signals where reduced brightness could be a safety factor and might not even be legal.

LED bulbs are also available to replace most regular 120 volt light bulbs.  Doing so may reduce the load on an RV or boat generator and even reduce your electric bill at home.  Be aware, some people are sensitive to the difference between LED and incandescent lights, so check to see if you or anyone in your family has this sensitivity before changing all your bulbs.  You might have to try swapping a bulb or two to find out.

LED flashlights are a real boon to campers.   LED bulbs are less fragile and use less energy than incandescent bulbs.  I once left a 17 LED lantern on overnight in my barn and it still worked find for several months afterwards before needing new batteries.  An incandescent flashlight would have run the batteries down long before the night was even over!  Small, "pencil light" sized LED flashlights will fit easily in your pack or pocket.  They put out a surprising amount of light and last a really long time.  I keep one in my dirt bike tool kit.  They don't have to be expensive.  I get mine at Harbor Freight and even sometimes Dollar Tree.

Let's LED!

Dollar Tree Update for RVers, Campers and Boaters

For more than 30 years Dollar Tree held fast to their tag line  "Everything's a dollar".   Well, not any more!  My last visit to Dollar Tree was quite a surprise.  Now nearly everything is $1.25!  I looked it up online and found this is a change that is being rolled out to all the Dollar Tree stores.  If yours hasn't changed yet, it soon will.  Actually, they do still have a few items at $l.00, just as they used to occasionally have had items at less than $1.00.  Got to say a sudden 25% increase was a bit of a shock and a big disappointment!  However, even at $1.25 a lot of what they have can still be a bargain for RVers, OHVers, campers, and boaters.  Interestingly enough I recently read an online article that said we could expect more national chains of dollar stores in the near future!  Apparently they can be quite profitable!  Sometimes you may actually pay more per unit at Dollar Tree than you would at name brand stores because the size of items might be smaller.  However, the smaller size is often a real benefit to RVers and campers and low cost makes it fairly reasonable to replace used up or expired items as needed.

Also recently notices some new items higher prices, like $5.00.  So it looks like Dollar Tree is moving toward the pricing structure of their sister store, Dollar General.  So, now we will have to be more careful when shopping at Dollar Tree to avoid unpleasant surprises at checkout.  One more strike against them.

I understand that the cost of goods is and has been rising for years.  We see it almost every day.  Most retail stores routinely adjust prices as their costs go up, but, if your niche is defined by ''Everything's a dollar!" you can't do that.  While I respect the economic reality that rising costs from suppliers demand increasing retail prices, I found the HUGE 25% increase at Dollar Tree quite surprising and irritating.  Guess they have to make up for lost time or maybe they are hedging against the continuing increase in their cost of goods!  Not sure I can suggest any really helpful alternatives.  Perhaps they could follow the pattern of Family Dollar and Dollar General -- that is, to offer some higher cost items at higher prices, but still maintain the dollar price on as many items as possible.  Since they are all owned by the same company that would seem to make sense.  However, that being said, the consistency of prices at Dollar Tree has always been a defining factor that has motivated my loyalty -- along with knowing that ''Everything's a dollar".  So, I suppose, having a uniform price of $1.25 may still have its advantages and many things may still be a better bargain than at "regular" stores.  However, the 25% price increase has already affected MY shopping habits.  I used to often stop by Dollar Tree just to pick up one or two items, like toothpaste or deodorant, and by the time I reached the register I typically had about $27 worth of merchandise in my cart.  No more.  It used to be easy to justify adding just about anything to the cart since it was ''only a dollar".  But now I will be measuring each item more carefully.  During my last several visits I spent far less than my typical $27 a visit (usually under $10!), even at the higher $1.25 prices and I expect I will continue to do so.  I am definitely buying less at Dollar Tree than I used to.

Is Dollar Tree still a viable source of supplies for your camping and boating activities?   Yes, I would think so.  Even at $1.25 their prices are still a lot less than you will usually pay at regular retail outlets.  Sometimes the price per item or price per ounce may add up to more than larger sizes at regular stores, but the smaller sizes (and lower prices) are often very helpful for campers etc.  For example, getting each plate or bowl or saucer for just $1.25 is pretty inviting, but consider how much you will spend for a complete 8-place set (3x8x$1.25 = $30).  You can often buy a full set of dinnerware for around $24.

Does this mean I will stop shopping at Dollar Tree?  Probably not, but it will very likely mean I will be buying fewer items each time I go there.  In my opinion, they will find they have shot themselves in the foot with this new pricing policy.  Instead of increasing profits through higher prices expect they will see a drop in sales with a corresponding drop profits.  Historically I have often gone in just to pick up one thing and by the time I got to the register I usually spent about $27. My total for each of several recent trips since the price change was under $10!  So I guess I should thank them for continuing to save me money, just in a different and less rewarding way.  Funny how that additional 25 cents has impacted what I buy, or rather, don't buy!

Dollar Tree   Dollar Twenty-five Tree!

OHV Riding In Cold Weather

Why would anyone want to ride an OHV in cold weather?  Well, usually we don't if we have a choice -- unless you have an ATV or side-by-side with a snow plow!   But sometimes we may get the urge to go riding when the weather isn't cooperating or sometimes we might just get caught out on the trails by bad weather sneaking up on us, which can happen all too often even when we try to keep an eye on the weather!  And old margarine commercial used to say ''It's not nice to fool Mother Nature!" but Mother Nature doesn't have any qualms about fooling us!

Most OHV riding is done in the summertime or in late spring or early fall when temperatures are moderate.   However, you may want to take advantage of riding opportunities in colder weather or you may find the weather turns unexpectedly cold on an otherwise warm outing.  Either way, it is good to be prepared for riding in cold weather.

Enclosed OHVs, like some UTVs or side-by-sides, can be fully enclosed and sometimes even have heaters.   If your UTV has removable windows, be sure you install them before embarking on any rides in cold weather.  Even if it doesn't have a heater the enclosed space will keep you out of the wind preserve body and engine heat to help keep you warmer.  Do not hang anything in window areas that will block your view.

Open OHVs, such as dirt bikes, ATVs, and snowmobiles will require dressing warm.   Some UTVs and side-by-sides have more enclosed spaces and sometimes even have heaters to keep you warm.  If not, you will need to dress warm to enjoy riding in them too.  Dressing warm usually means dressing in layers so you can adjust to changing temperatures while out on a ride.  You might be surprised how quickly you will warm up once you start riding.  You should always feel a little cooler just standing around before you start out.  If you start getting warm enough to sweat you will need to open some zippers or stop and shed some layers.  The last thing you want when riding in cold weather is to get sweaty.  As soon as you activity level decreases you will get very cold very fast.

Riding in REALLY cold weather means you many have to deal with frost on your ATV and UTV windshields and sometimes even on your face shield or goggles and icy spots on roads.  Because OHV windshields are usually made of plastic instead of glass you don't want to scrape the ice off like you do your car.  It will scratch the plastic.  Better to cover the windshields at night so there is no frost on them in the morning.  If you need to clear frost off an OHV windshield, a little warm water or water mixed with rubbing alcohol may help.  Same thing with face shields and goggles.  Once you start out be aware that it is likely there will be frozen spots in shady areas of roads and trails.  On pavement that may mean black ice.  On dirt roads and trails it may be unmelted snow.  In any case, exercise extra caution crossing these areas, especially if they are on a curve.  Another hidden hazard is soft spots in frozen ground that can trap you or throw you off course.  You might also find frost on exposed seats on dirt bikes and ATVs left unprotected.  This is easily solved by wiped the seats with a soft towel -- or prevented by protecting the seat when left unattended.   

Cold weather is going to be more of an issue for riders of dirt bikes and ATVs than for drivers of UTVs and other off-road vehicles.  Even fairly open UTVs provide significantly more protection against cold wind and weather than you get on a dirt bike or ATV.  Some, but certainly not all UTVs are even equipped with a heater like those found in cars and trucks to help ward off the chill.   Snowmobilers sometimes add electric hand warmers and these might even be adapted to dirt bikes and ATVs if they produce enough electrical power.  Note, the magneto on machines not designed for electrical lighting may not be sufficient to operate electrical accessories without being upgraded.

Often riding in cold weather means riding in snow.  You may be able to negotiate short runs in snow on regular off-road knobby tires but if you plan to do a lot of riding in deep snow you will want more aggressive paddle tires like those used in sand.  Some riders add spikes to their tires to increase traction on ice and packed snow.  Take care if you choose to implement this technique.  Improper installing of the spikes can result it flat tires, tire damage, or spikes being ejected and injuring riders or bystanders.  Riding in snow  may also necessitate dark goggles or sunglasses to prevent snow blindness.

Goggles and face shields are more likely to fog up on the inside on cold days.  To prevent fogging apply an antifog solution to the inside of the lens.  A favorite among off roaders is brand named "Cat Crap", which may be kind of  turn off for some people but it really does work better than just about anything else I've tried.  Sometimes, in a pinch you might use an old diver's trick:  use your own saliva.  It won't work as good as "Cat Crap" but it is better than nothing and, unless you are dehydrated, you should always have some available.  Note:  in below freezing temperatures it may freeze on your goggles so you might want to test it on another surface before ruining your vision for the rest of the ride.

A very common problem for cold weather riding in all OHVs is cold hands.  The usual solution is to wear warmer gloves.  I like Windchill gloves for dirt bike riding or adding glove liners.  I have found that cheap knit gloves (sometimes even found at dollar stores) work pretty well inside my off-road gloves. Jersey gloves are usually too bulky but inexpensive knit gloves have worked well for us. Chemical hand warming pads are also helpful for keeping hands warm inside gloves or mittens.  BTW, mittens are usually warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  Mittens can be a very good choice for passengers in a UTV.  Chemical hand warmers can be tucked into your gloves and chemical foot warmers into your boots if you have trouble keeping your extremities warm.  They even have larger sizes you can put on your back and tummy if you need more warmth.

Cold weather riding usually means dressing in layers, more than you normally use, from head to toe.  Where you may normally wear a helmet and goggles you might need to add a balaclava or face mask to help keep your head warm.  You will probably want to wear a Windchill jersey instead of a regular one and, if it is cold enough, perhaps thermal underwear beneath the jersey.  When it gets colder, you will want a warmer coat like an Enduro jacket to keep your body warm. In really cold weather you may need something heavier and warmer than an Enduro jacket, maybe even a parka.  You will definitely want warmer gloves or glove liners and may even want to add chemical hand warmers.  I have found that inexpensive knit gloves work pretty well under my riding gloves and are a lot less expensive than glove liners.  Chemical hand warmers are small and light weight so you can usually slip them into your gloves.  They even make large body warmers if you need extra warmth on your torso.  Riding pants are already fairly heavy but on colder days you will probably want to add thermal underwear.  Motocross socks are usually thick enough to provide sufficient insulation on colder days, but you might want to add sock layers or chemical foot warmers if your feet still get cold.   BTW, those chemical hand and foot warmers do begin to cool down after a while.  You can usually warm them up again by taking them out and shaking them so more air can react with the chemicals to give you a boost of warmth.

Don't overdress!  Riders sometimes have a tendency to dress too warmly.  You should feel a little bit cool (not cold or chilled) when standing around before you start your ride.  If you are already comfortably warm before you start riding you will most likely get too hot fairly quickly once you start riding.   Over dressing can cause you to sweat, which in turn will make you colder and even possibly risk hypothermia!  You will probably need to dress warmer riding a dirt bike or an ATV and less warmer riding in n enclosed and heated UTV.  You might not even to dress as warmly in an unheated UTV as the enclosed or at least partially enclosed body shelters you from most of the wind and can help capture both body and engine heat to keep you warmer than on an open OHV,  Snowmobile suits or similar insulated coveralls provide a lot of warmth but can it can be difficult to safely cool down as your level of activity generates excess body heat on aggressive rides.

Rain can catch up to you even on warm summer days.  If rain is in the forecast it is wise to have rain gear.  A complete rain suit (jacket and pants) that covers your whole body provides the best protection but even carrying a lightweight water resistant nylon jacket or a cheap plastic poncho and give you some respite from the rain if you get caught out on the trail.  I try to always have a poncho in my tool bag or a handy pocket.  It might not do the best job keeping me dry while riding, but at least it helps some and can keep most of the rain off me when stopped.  Sometimes it makes good sense to pull off the trail for a while when it starts to rain.  Even the partial protection provided by getting under a tree can help keep you a little bit dryer.  If  you start out in the rain or know you will be riding in the rain, start out wearing a rain suit.  Otherwise tuck a lightweight jacket or poncho in your tool kit or pack in case you get caught in the rain out on the trails.  Your need for rain bear might be reduced if you have a UTV with a windshield and roof to protect you from the rain.  Even a cheap plastic poncho can help keep your torso drier and warmer and that is essential to maintaining core temperature to prevent hypothermia.

 If you do get wet out on the trail, try to find someplace to dry off as soon as possible.   You will lose body heat about 25 times faster when you are wet than when you are dry and you can even get hypothermia on fairly warm days as your body loses heat.

A warm place to recover from a cold ride can be more than just comfortable, it may be necessary to prevent hypothermia or other cold related illnesses.  If your base camp includes an RV, leave the furnace set to about 70F when you go out riding so it is warm when you return.  If you are staying in a tent, make sure it is closed up while your are away.  If you have a tent heater, start it up as soon as you can when you get back from your ride.  Leave heavy, cold, wet clothing outside.  Remove all wet clothing.  Put on warm, dry clothes or wrap yourself in a blanket or sleeping bag until you warm up.  Having something warm to drink or maybe even to eat when you get back to camp can also be helpful.  Hot coffee, tea, and hot cocoa are always a hit.  So is hot soup or chili.  That is really easy to do if you have a microwave in your RV but it will take a little more time if you have to heat things up on a camp stove or campfire.  A campfire, however, may be pleasant and helpful anytime.  I like to prepare my campfire before I go out on a cold day to ride so it is ready to light when I get back.  A warm campfire is something that can be enjoyed by everyone in your riding party.  For a nice, warm, cold weather snack around the campfire we like to make a dip of about half chili and half cream cheese, warm it up, and serve it with the big Frito's Scoops corn chips.  And nothing warms you quite a quickly and comfortably than a nice hot beverage.  Many folks like coffee or tea but I prefer the thicker texture and nutrition of hot cocoa.

Stay warm!

RV and Marine Toilet Paper

You will often see advice warning against using ordinary toilet paper in RVs and marine toilets.  This is based on the stated need for RV and marine toilet paper to break down properly so it doesn't interfere with tank sensors or clog tanks and drains.  The same thing applies to porta-pottis used for camping and on boats.  But, is it really necessary?  Well, yes and no.  Yes you do need to be careful what you put into RV and marine toilets and porta-pottis.  No, it doesn't necessarily have to be the expensive RV or marine branded toilet paper.

I recently read an article on line from an RVer who has used "ordinary" toilet paper in their RV for more than two decades without having any issues.  Some popular name brands including Scott and Charmin, claim their products are "septic and sewer safe" and claim they are OK to use in RV and marine toilets.  Anything that is indeed septic safe, might be OK to use in RV and marine toilets, but, remember, septic tanks are lot bigger and have a lot longer to break down waste than RV and marine holding tanks do.

So, what is so special about RV toilet paper?  Two things come immediately to mind:  higher cost and lower quality.  OK, I guess that sounds a little cynical.  The lower quality is usually attributed to the need for it to break down quickly.   Light weight, thin, single ply sheets for example.  The higher cost is simply a marketing gimmick.   So, do you really need it or not?  Well, yes and no!  You must use a toilet paper that will break down appropriately but it does not have to be the expensive product branded for RV use.  Many cheap single ply brands of ordinary toilet paper will break down properly.

If you have any concerns about whether your preferred toilet paper is OK to us in your RV or marine toilet, there is a simple test you can do.  Put a sheet or two into a quart jar filled with water and shake it.  If if breaks down quickly, it is OK.  For an idea of what not-OK tissue does, do the same thing with a facial tissue.  You will probably see it doesn't break down for a long, long time.  If you see similar results with any toilet paper, do not use that in your RV or marine toilet.  Anything that breaks down quickly is OK.  I typically use cheap toilet paper from Dollar Tree.

While it appears that most toilet paper will be safe to use in RV toilets, so-called flushable wipes are not.  Just try a flushable wipe in the above mentioned test and you will see why.  It will remain in tact for hours if not weeks!  Things like that will definitely cause problems in RV holding tanks.

One other caution:  don't use too much toilet paper.  If things get extra messy, flush before you create a big clump of paper in the toilet.  Large clumps are more likely to cause build up and clogs and will be slower to dissolve.   Don't be too stingy with adding water for each flush.   You don't want to waste water, but you do want to use enough to get the job done!  Every flush at home uses 3-5 gallons of water, depending on the age and efficiency of the toilet.  You need enough water in your black water tank to allow solids to break down and be flushed out when dumping.  As a basic rule, I suggest at least filling the narrow well at the bottom of your RV toilet with water before depositing solid waste.  It will help control initial odors as well as help with flushing and break down.  Then be generous when flushing, both to clean the bowl and to provide enough liquid in the black water tank for proper breakdown and disposal of waste.

Toilet paper with multiple layers and with embossing that compresses the fibers will  break down slower than simple, single layer products.   Likewise, any dyes or perfumes that may have been added can interfere with holding tank chemicals.  In order to save money, I usually use the cheap toilet paper I can buy at dollar stores instead of buying expensive "RV toilet paper".  However, since that is usually single layer it might not be strong enough for everyone.  Like the author of the above mentioned article, I have used cheap toilet paper for nearly 40 years of RVing, camping, and boating without any problems.  If you have any questions about what is safe for you to use, do the simple test described a couple of paragraphs above.  If your favorite residential paper passes the test, feel free to use it in your RV, boat, and porta-potti.  If it fails find an alternative that breaks down properly.

Flush well!

Safe Soaps for Campers and Boaters

Why should campers and boaters be concerned about using safe soap?  Well, soaps and detergents can be harmful to the environment and if used improperly or in the wrong places may contaminate drinking water sources.   If you only use the sanitation facilities with holding tanks on your RV, camper, or boat, you can probably use the same favorite products you use at home.  Do consider whether any products will adversely affect hold tank chemical performance.  However, if you use outdoor facilities you need be careful so that what you use doesn't pollute the environment unnecessarily.

Your choice of soaps and detergents may be limited if you or anyone in your immediate group has allergies or sensitive skin.   If possible, test any options at home before you head out on your adventures.  You don't want to be out and about with no access to remedies or alternatives when you discover a product that causes someone problems.

Personal hygiene is just as important, perhaps even more important, when we are out camping or boating than it is at home.  However, at home the waste from washing dishes. clothes or our bodies usually goes into appropriate sewer or septic systems so it doesn't harm the environment.  When we are out on the water or in the wild we must take precautions to ensure waste water doesn't contaminate drinking water sources or do other damage to the environment.  Never dump any waste water within 200' of wells, springs, streams, or other bodies of water.  Developed campgrounds often have a designated, gravel area to dump wash water.  Indiscriminately dumping it elsewhere on the landscape can create serious environmental problems.  If you drink water from the campground, you might even be polluting the water your drink!

When you are camping in an fully self-contained RV or boat with holding tanks you can generally treat the sinks and basins much like you would the ones at home and can usually use the same favorite products you use at home.  You will usually find it beneficial to avoid putting too much organic waste down the drain as it tends to build up in drain pipes and holding tanks and can cause unpleasant odors, clog sensors, and even blockages.  Consider wiping dishes with a wad of newspaper before washing them, then burn the newspaper in your campfire.   But, if you are bathing or washing dishes or dumping waste water outside you need to make sure the products you use are environmentally safe.  Excess soaps may introduce over sudsing into your grey water tank, making it fill quicker than usual, result in backflow, and perhaps interfere with proper dumping.  You might want to cut back a bit on how much shampoo you use on your hair.  Along that line, I like to use a combination shampoo and conditioner to minimize both chemicals and the amount of water used washing hair.

Some commonly used soaps, such as Dawn dish washing detergent, are reportedly safe to use when camping.  BTW, Dawn is a good solution if you should happen to get sprayed with bear spray or mace.  The usual recomnended treatment is Baby Shampoo, but it often isn't strong enough to neutralize the powerful oils in pepper sprays.  Always look for biodegradable soaps for use when camping.  However, you must always consider where your waste water is going.  If you are on or near a lake or stream that is a source of drinking water you should avoid allowing any waste to enter the water.  You should never dump waste water within 200 feet of a water source.  Some campgrounds have special dish washing sumps where you can safely dump dish water or water from washing clothes.  They are usually a small depression with gravel on top.  Beneath that is typically a pit or barrel with several feet of sand and gravel that filters the water before allowing it so seep out into the ground.  Lacking any designated place to dump soapy water, dump it well away (at least 200 feet) from any lake, stream, pond, or well and far enough away from camp that it doesn't make a smelly, muddy mess anywhere you will be walking.  I have seen RVs run a drain hose from there gray water tanks out into the desert to avoid filling the holding tank too quickly.   Thirsty desert plants may appreciate the extra hydration.  In some places that may be illegal so be sure to check local rules before doing that.  Then, remember to keep waste water away from any ground water and out of trails, pathways, roads, and camp sites.  I have seen people route their grey water dump hoses into existing holes in the ground.  But, remember, those holes are probably home to desert creatures you might harm and it could create a dangerous situation if it drives a rattlesnake out of its hole and into your camp!

If you are not sure if your soap is environmentally safe, don't use it where it can contaminate the environment!  There are biodegradable soaps available for almost all needs.  They come in liquid, bar, and powder form and Coleman even offers biodegradable soap sheets that are convenient for all kinds of outdoor activities, even back packing.   Do a quick Internet search for "safe soap for campers" to get a list of products and brands that are suitable for camping and boating.

Liquid soaps are convenient for use at home and often in RVs and boats, but bar soap is usually easier to deal with when tent camping and hiking.  You can even find shampoo in bar form if you look around.  Bar soap should be kept in a plastic soap container or sealable plastic bag to prevent it from getting all over the things around it and protect it from becoming contaminated.  Lacking a soap container, tuck it into a zip lock style bag.  Some camp friendly soap comes in tubes like toothpaste which makes it clean, compact, and easy to carry and convenient to dispense of when it is empty.

Wet wipes are a convenient alternative for lots of small cleanup jobs.  They are light weight, compact, don't spill, and can be easily disposed of in regular trash or even burned in a campfire.

Just because your boat has a sink or basin doesn't mean you can dump your soapy waste down  there.   The sinks and basins on many small boats drain directly out through the hull into the water.  Even just the soapy water from washing your hands could contaminate the water around your boat.  If your boat sink drains into a holding tank, it may be safe for soapy water, but if it drains directly out through the hull, it definitely is not. 

Some community water sources, likes lakes and rivers, may even prohibit bathing, swimming, or any bodily contact with the water.  Be especially careful to avoid allowing waste water to enter the water in such places.

With just a little common sense and obeying reasonable rules we can enjoy good outdoor hygiene and protect the environment!  Failure to comply could result in closure of popular venues.

Clean up!

OHV Water Crossings

With a large share of OHV riding areas being in locations that are usually undesireable for camping, springs, ponds, streams, and lakes are often quite rare sights for OHV riders.   Therefore, many OHV riders seldom get a chance to experience water crossings and may not know how to safely handle them if/when they do encounter them.  When you do find them they can be quite a lot of fun  -- if you know how to engage them safely.

Water crossings require special techniques for both safely negotiating them and avoiding unnecessary environmental damage.   Shallow, slow moving water is usually fairly easy to cross unless there are submerged obstacles, holes, ruts, or deep mud that might impede your progress.  Try to pick a path that has no visible obstacles, then drive or ride smoothly and steadily through the water.  It may seem like fun to hit it hard and faster and throw up a big wake or rooster tail, but in most cases you will soon regret the drenching you give both you and your machine or your fellow riders.  Hitting it too fast can even cause you to hydroplane.  I have seen videos of guys riding a dirtbike on top of the water on a small pond at high speed.  Avoid kicking up too much water.  Too much water can enter air intakes or short out electrical systems, leaving you stranded in the middle somewhere.   If you happen to lay the bike down in the water it may suck water into the engine, creating a hydraulic lock that is difficult and time consuming to resolve, not to mention expensive if you can't do it yourself.  Fast moving streams can be very dangerous to cross.  It only takes a 6-8"of fast moving water to sweep a dirt bike or ATV -- or a person! -- downstream.  One of the perils of fast moving streams is that the moving water prevents you from viewing the bottom and may hide rocks or deep pockets that are impossible to negotiate.  If you determine crossing the water is safe, use a moderate speed and try to maintain steady momentum all the way across.  Slowing down in the middle can result in you getting stuck and stranded.  Trying to speed up may drench you and the electrical system on your ride, also leaving you stuck and stranded.  Be careful even of crossings you may have used before.  Spring runoff or recent rains or snowmelt can swell streams.  The difference is not always obvious and it is easy to get surprised by faster, deeper water than you are expecting.

How you approach water crossings will be somewhat determined by what kind of vehicle you are operating.  UTVs provide more protection for occupants than dirt bikes and ATVs.  However, they may be subject to different kinds of damage.  I have seen UTVs with shattered radiator fans caused by driving through water deep enough to break the plastic fins on the fans and causing the engines to overheat shortly after leaving the water.  The front wheels on dirt bikes and ATVs will throw up enough wake to thoroughly soak the riders and the machine if you hit the water too fast.  Dirt bikes are more likely to feel the effects of the current than ATVs and UTVs.  UTVs may lose traction in deep water because the body will often cause it to float -- at least until enough water flows inside to offset the displacement.

Many streams or bodies of water you might encounter are part of the local drinking water supply.  Excessive vehicle activity can impact water purity.  Muddy banks are easily damaged by powerful OHVs so  you want to avoid aggressive throttle when entering or leaving the water if possible.   Look for alternatives, such as riding around the wet areas, bridges, or routes that other vehicles have used.  Crossing streams where frequently used roads or trails cross is usually pretty safe, but use extra caution anytime there is a chance of unusually high water, like current or recent rain or snow melt.  Be sure to enter and exit the stream where the road or trail appears to be and it looks like other vehicles may have gone.

Some existing roads and trails have regular water crossings that sometimes have concrete paving to provide a safe place to ford streams.  These are usually relatively free from rocks and other debris but are often quite slick from algae and slime at the bottom of the stream.  Here again you want to maintain smooth, steady control to avoid slipping and sliding.  Flash floods can deposit rocks and other debris on concrete fords so exercise caution if there is anything obscuring your view of the submerged road.

Carefully plan your crossing before you start.  You need to know how you  are going to approach the water, the path you are going to take through it, and how your are going to exit.  I once saw an unattentive rider smack head on into the vertical far bank of a creek when he failed to see that the exit wasn't directly across from the entry, literally knocking the crap out of him!  Good thing he did a better job looking ahead when riding through the trees getting there!

Since many of the streams we cross are used by other people or as a drinking water source we need to be considerate of other users and prevent unnecessary contamination of the water.  If you see other people swimming, wading, or fishing nearby, exercise extra caution so you don't splash them or foul the water around them or upstream from them.

Water crossings are sometimes necessary and sometimes just a fun way to cool off on a hot summer's day.  However, always exercise caution and be courteous of other riders or other people enjoying the stream.

Safe Crossing!

RV Generator Troubleshooting

RV Generators provide the 120 volt power that facilitates much of the home-like conveniences we enjoy in our RVs.  When they don't work, it can cause a lot of discomfort and frustration.  Here are some of the most common generator related problems and how you can often fix them in the field.

Not plugged in.  Surprisingly, one of the most common problems is a generator that is not plugged in.  Some RVs, especially high end models, have automatic transfer switches that automatically connect the generator to the RV power panel whenever the generator is running.  Also you need to be aware there is usually a short time delay between when the generator starts and when the transfer switch gives access to it.  That is to allow the engine on the generator a chance to stabilize before putting a load on it.  On RVs that do not have an automatic transfer switch you have to plug the RV shore power cable into an outlet connected to the RV generator.  A surprising number of users, especially new or novice users, fail or forget to perform or check this very basic connection before calling a service technician.   All too often the user simply forgot to plug the cord into the generator receptacle.  Sometimes the cord plugged into the generator receptacle some how comes loose.  You should always check the power cord before calling for help.  Obviously, if the problem is that the shore power isn't plugged in it is very easy fix to plug it in.  Along that line, some people forget to plug in shore power at RV parks or fail to check to see if it has gotten unplugged and then complain to park management that the power at their site isn't working.  Always make sure you are securely plugged in before calling for help.  Sometimes your shore power cable may get accidentally unplugged or you might even be the victim of vandals who unplug power cables just for malicious fun.

Tripped circuit breakers.  RVs have a 120 volt power panel with circuit breakers, similar to the one in your home.  If some parts of the RV have power and others don't, this is where the problem likely is.  Resetting a tripped breaker usually solves the problem.  If it keeps tripping you need to find out what extra load is on that breaker and remove it.  In rare cases, a breaker may get worn or weak and trip before reaching its normal load, but tripped breakers are usually caused by users putting too much load on the circuit.  Adding things like electric heaters or other appliances is one frequent source of overloads.  A breaker that pops immediately and consistently often indicates some kind of short or other overload in the electrical system that needs to be corrected.  Simultaneous use of high wattage appliances on the same circuit is often the cause of tripped breakers.  It is OK to attach multiple appliances to the same circuit, like a microwave oven and a toaster, but try not to use them at the same time to avoid overloading the circuit and tripping the breaker.  Frequent overloading of a circuit and tripping the breaker can weaken the breaker and it will need to be replaced.

Generator breakers.  Generators have their own built in circuit breakers.  If you lose power throughout the RV all at once, a tripped breaker on the generator is the most likely culprit.  Some generator breakers are clearly marked and easily recognized.  However, some have markings that are hard to locate or hard to see and the breakers may look like ordinary toggle switches.  In either case, locating and resetting the breaker(s) usually solves the problem.  The breakers will trip if the total demand from the power panel exceeds the rating of the breaker.  Normal use of an RV shouldn't exceed the power rating but sometimes added equipment may cycle simultaneously causing a spike in demand and tripping the breaker.  A one time failure needs only to be reset.  Repeated failures indicate some kind of continuous overload that needs to be diagnosed and eliminated.  I once thought I had a transfer switch problem because I had trouble finding the tripped breakers on the generator.  The labels had been obscured by dirt and oil and the breakers were toggle switches out of sight on one end of the generator instead recognizable breakers up front where I could easily see them.   On this generator the labels were near the right front bottom corner of the generator where they had gotten covered with oil and dirt and the breakers were located near the front bottom corner of the right hand end (not the front) of the generator, with little room next to them and impossible to view.  I needed to use a mechanic's mirror to see them so I could verify which way was on and which was off in order to reset them.

Generator shuts down during use.  RV generators are powered by gasoline, diesel, or propane engines.  Obviously they will shut down if they run out of fuel.  The fuel taps in the fuel tanks for the generators are usually placed higher than the taps for the engine or other appliances so running the generator won't run you out of fuel and leave you stranded.  If your generator shuts down while running, the first thing you should check is the fuel level.  On gasoline powered vehicles the generator tap is usually placed at about 1/4 of the tank to leave you enough fuel to hopefully drive to a filling station once the generator runs out of fuel.   Propane generators run on liquid propane from the bottom of the tank.  Propane appliances, like stoves, furnaces, and water heaters, run on gaseous propane from further up in the tank.  For that reason, generators will not run from the popular "Extend-a-Stay"setups that attach extra, external propane cylinders to the system.  A second reason for generators to shut down while running is low oil.  Most generators have sensors that detect low oil and shut the engines down before they are damaged by lack of lubrication.  If your generator shuts down and your fuel supply is adequate, check the oil level.  If it is low, bring it up to the full mark before attempting to restart the generator.  Sometimes overheating can cause the engine to shut down.  You are most likely to experience this during hot summer days running the roof A/C but it can occur at other times.  Check to make sure there is nothing blocking the air vents to the generator compartment.  One more possible fuel related problem is clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump.  You might be able to remove a clogged filter and blow backwards through it to clean out some of the debris to buy you a little more time but clogged filters should be replaced as soon as possible.  Attempting to operate the engine without a functioning fuel filter may cause expensive damage to the engine.  A failed fuel pump will have to be replaced.  If you are a fairly good DIY mechanic you should be able to replace it yourself on site if you can get a replacement.  Most of the generators I've worked on used electric fuel pumps.  Be sure to check the power and verify there isn't a blown fuse.  In a pinch you might be able to use just about any after market electric fuel pump from an automotive store to replace a bad pump on a generator.  A third reason for generators to shut down is over heating.  Many generators are air cooled so make sure the air flow around the generator is not restricted.  Never use the generator compartment for extra storage.  If you happen to have a liquid cooled generator, make sure the coolant level isn't low and make sure the radiator isn't damaged or blocked and that radiator hoses aren't collapsed or clogged.  If you are in unusually dusty conditions or your air filter hasn't been properly maintained, a clogged air filter can create problems.  Cleaning or replacing the air filter should easily solve such problems.

Proper operating and maintenance procedures will minimize generator problems.  Religiously follow the schedule for oil and filter changes, both air and fuel.  Check the oil before each trip and often during between uses.  Clean or replace the air filter per the recommended schedule or more often if operating in dusty conditions.  Check the coolant level and radiator hoses on liquid cooled units before operation.  Make sure there is adequate ventilation for air cooled models.

A surprising number of calls to mobile RV mechanics for generator problems are due to simple user errors that  don't really require a technician.  If you don't have an automatic transfer switch, make sure your shore power cord is plugged in to the generator receptacle.  Check for low fuel or low oil if your generator shuts down.  Regularly perform routine maintenance such as changing the oil and replacing oil, air, and fuel filters to minimize failures and maintain performance.

Power up!

What Can Campers Do This Time of Year (January)?

It is the middle of January here in the western United States.  Not exactly ideal weather for camping in most places in the Northern Hemisphere.  So, what, if anything, can campers do this time of year besides wish camping season were here?

Well, actually, there are lots of things we can do, if we have a mind to.  Our options for heading out onto the trails or into the forest (or even the desert) might be limited  by weather and temperature right now, but there are other things we can do to stay active and productive.  Winter is a good time to do some good preventive maintenance on our equip, perhaps do some shopping for new camping clothes and gear, look into new equipment we might want to try out, and research places to go when the season opens in in a few months.

Preventive Maintenance should include inspecting all our gear and repairing or replacing damaged items as necessary.  It is a good time to re-oil the leather seals on camp stove and lantern plungers, clean burners and gas lines (spiders like to nest in them!), inspect tents, sleeping bags, and camp clothing.  These items might need to be cleaned if they weren't cleaned before storage or if they have become contaminated during storage.  Tents might benefit from a new coating of waterproofing.  Any missing or damaged loops or fasteners should be repaired or replaced.  Tears in tents, sleeping bags, and camp clothing should be stitched and any tent repairs sealed.  Hiking and riding boots should be cleaning and inspected and sprayed with waterproofing.   Look for missing, worn, or damaged latches and laces and repair or replace as necessary.  Worn soles or heals?  Now is a good time to take them to the shoe repair shop and get them fixed so they will be ready to use when you are ready to use them.  Check flashlights and other battery powered equipment.  Hopefully you removed the batteries before putting them in storage.  If not, you may now have corroded batteries that need to be removed and the compartments and contacts thoroughly cleaned.  

The off season is also a good time to make wanted improvements or enhancements to our equipment.  Major additions to RVs, campers, and boats can be done now without impacting use during the normal recreational season.  Of course, if any of our mechanical devices need repair, now is a generally a good time to get it done.  Anything in the interior can usually be done regardless of weather but some external repairs or additions (roof repairs for example) might require waiting until better weather, but you may be able to perform inspections now to make plans and get the necessary materials you will need when you can work outside.  It is a good time to check batteries and make sure everything is properly lubricated.  If your equipment is sheltered from the elements you can most likely proceed with any desired improvements regardless of weather.

The off season is a good time to do research on new equipment, new activities, and new destinations.   You will probably not want to take time for it during actual camping season when you can get out and go places and having some lead time to prepare for new adventures is always helpful.  The Internet provides lots of resources for researching new gear, activities and destinations. You can usually find a plethora of articles and videos to help you evaluate new options and find the best prices and fastest delivery of  purchases.  It is nice to be able to read reviews and watch Youtube videos before you spend a lot of money on some new gadget.  You might even want to do some background research on your favorite destinations and activities to learn more of their use and history.  You never know what interesting or even useful information you might gain.  I had been dirt biking the Mojave Desert for several years before I learned the stories behind some of the familiar landmarks we explored or encountered during our rides.  One of our favorite campsites had, at one time, been a way station for the famous 20 Mule Teams hauling borax out of Death Valley and later a railroad switching center.   A popular rugged desert site we often rode our dirt bikes to and through had been used to train astronauts for the moon landings and used in many movies.  I even located a memorial marking the crash site of an X-15.   I also like to learn what I can about the flora and fauna of areas we go to.  It can be helpful to know what precautions you might need to take against animal attacks.  Our most frequent threat in the desert was rattlesnakes and scorpions.  Many plants may be edible or even have medical properties in an emergency.  However, what might be useful in any given area is dependent on what grows there.  Knowing the wondrous medical properties of esoteric tropical rain forest plants isn't going to do you much good in a North American forest or desert, but knowing the benefits of things like willows, poplars, and even sage brush, might very well be.  BTW, the bark of willows, poplars, and aspens, contain salicylic acid, the natural equivalent of aspirin and sage brush can be used to make an effective disinfectant solution as well as providing a fragrant, easy-to-light fuel for campfires.  I have found that chewing the bark from about 6" of small (1/8") willow branches had about the same affect as taking two aspirin.   While it may not taste like candy, the taste is not too unpleasant.

Some adventurous people actually do go camping in winter weather.  If you choose to explore these options, make sure your equipment, including your clothing, is properly configured for winter use.  most RVs, campers, and boats, are designed or adapted for use in mild weather.  They must be appropriately "hardened" for use below freezing temperatures, not only for your comfort, but to prevent serious damage to the equipment.  Water expands when it freezes you must protect anything that hods water:  plumbing, water jugs, cooling systems, etc.  Simple things like parking an RV, setting up a tent, or making a campfire, require extra considerations when camping in snow or freezing weather.  Having shelter and clothing appropriate to the conditions you are in could literally mean the difference between life and death and will certainly be necessary for comfort!  You might find it useful to try some cold-weather camping as a means to prepare for winter emergencies.

Get off the couch and do something!

Don't Use A Cooking Stove For Area Heating

If you own an RV, camper, or boat, no doubt you have noticed that cooking inside warms up the interior.  Doesn't matter if you are using a built in stove or a free-standing camp stove.  On cooler days that can be an asset but on warmer days it just makes things worse.  Some RVs now offer exterior kitchens for additional options for cooking outside.  Cooking outside can be fun and convenient as well as reducing unwanted heat (and odors) inside. On colder days, cooking inside is probably more comfortable and helps warm the interior.  The same thing, of course, applies to cooking at home, but the affects in an RV are usually more noticeable.  However, never use a cooking stove for general area heating  -- in your RV, camper, boat or at home.  It simply isn't safe!

When a camper or boat lacks a heater or furnace (or the furnace goes out at home) it is often tempting to use the cooking stove to heat the interior.    Never a good idea!  Cooking stoves are not designed for area heating, although they usually do warm up the room or compartment they are in when being used for cooking.  Gas stoves can put off toxic fumes such as Carbon Monoxide (CO) as well as Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and water vapor.  They also consume oxygen so they can cause suffocation even if you aren't poisoned by the CO or CO2.  ALWAYS use adequate ventilation when cooking with a gas stove.  NEVER use a cooking stove just for area heating!  When you are cooking you are usually paying some attention to the stove and only use it for a short time.  When using it for area heating it is WAY too easy to forget about it and that can have very dangerous consequences, including fires, illness, and even death from toxic fumes or suffocation when the stove uses up all the oxygen in the interior space or fills it with carbon monoxide.  Carbon monoxide is invisible, tasteless, and odorless to you can't detect it without special equipment.  Gas stoves should be vented to the outside, but even then some of the fumes will drift around inside putting you and your environment at risk.  Electric stoves may not have the same risks of toxic fumes or oxygen depletion but the heating elements are NOT designed for long term area heating.  Attempting to use them for that is likely to result in burning out the elements and possibly causing a fire.  They also use a lot of electricity.  Just watch the meter spin sometime when you are using one.  And electricity costs money, sometimes a lot of money!

If your unit has a cooking stove but no space heater and you need to warm things up, use the cooking stove to boil some water to make hot drinks.   Then turn the stove off.  The stove will provide some warming to the interior while you are heating the water and then the hot drink will help warm you from the inside out.  Maybe heat up some TV dinners or bake a pie if you need more heat for both you and your unit.  But do not just run the stove unless you are cooking on it!  They are simply not designed for long term unattended operation!

Why is it OK to  use your stove to cook but not heat?  First of all, cooking is usually limited to fairly short amounts of time while space heating is often needed continuously.   Secondly, you are more likely to notice adverse conditions or reactions while you are actively cooking than you would doing other activities, especially if you are relaxing or sleeping!  A third and most serious consideration with gas stoves is that the exhaust from furnaces exits through a stove pipe or side vent directly outside while the exhaust from cooking stoves goes directly into the interior atmosphere you are breathing!  People are mostly used to opening appropriate windows or vents for adequate ventilation while cooking but we are mostly accustomed to furnaces and heaters whose combustion takes place in a sealed compartment that is always vented outside so folks are likely to forget to provide adequate venting, especially if it is cold outside and you want to keep the heat in.   In any case, gas cooking stoves will create lots of toxic fumes which can be extremely dangerous and even fatal!  In addition, furnaces get their air from the outside and cooking stoves use the same air you are breathing.  The flames consume oxygen and quite a number of campers have suffocated when using gas-powered appliances in a closed space without adequate ventilation.   Usually opening a couple of windows about an inch on opposite sides or ends of an RV will provide enough ventilation for lanterns.  I would use more if I were using a stove.  Properly installed furnaces use fresh outside air for combustion; cooking stoves use the same air you are breathing!  Want to bet whether the flames or your lungs will get any available oxygen out of the air?  Not something I would bet my life on for sure! (BTW, the flames would win and you would lose -- combustion is a lot more efficient at using oxygen than our lungs are).

If you need auxiliary heat in an RV, camper, or boat cabin, get a heater properly rated and configured for your application.  There are catalytic propane heaters designed for indoor use that can usually be used safely in RVs, tents, and campers if used appropriately according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Use of propane heaters in boats is not recommended but I have seen people do it.  Should there be any propane leak, propane is heavier than air and will accumulate in the bilge creating a hazard for explosion.  The small, self contained propane cylinders that screw directly to the heater are designed to re-seal themselves when removed, reducing the chance of a propane leak and I have seen people use them in reasonable safety on boats.  Permanently installed propane appliances have gas lines and fittings that can get loose or damaged and leak so they are strongly discouraged on boats.  Boats often take more of a beating out on the waves than RVs do even on rough roads, increasing the risk of gas leaks.  There are no springs or shock absorbers on boats!  In addition, weather resistant RVs have more natural ventilation than waterproof boat hulls so fumes are more likely to accumulate, especially down in the bilge where gasoline and propane fumes will settle.

Electric heaters are usually pretty safe to use in just about any indoor environment.  The only downside really is the need for a significant amount of 120 volt AC power.  I have seen a few 12 volt DC heaters but they don't provide a lot f heat and their power consumption draws down RV, camper, and boat batteries pretty fast.  Electric heaters are not too appealing for use on boats.  Water and electricity don't mix!  A little water in the bilge might be a nuisance under normal circumstances but add an electric heater and you could get electrocuted!  Also, the added weight of generators or solar panels and battery banks sufficient to support an electric heater usually discourages use on small boats where weight is critical.

When using any heater or furnace do it safely.  Permanently installed heaters or furnaces in RVs, campers, and boats will be properly installed in cabinets that ensure adequate ventilation and sufficient clearance between heating chambers and surrounding structures.  Never use furnace cabinets for storage!  The units require a certain amount of air circulation for both efficient operation and safety.  When using space heaters be sure to place them far enough away from walls, cabinets, furniture and other combustible materials so they don't pose a risk.  Avoid putting any heater near curtains, drapes, clothes, towels, blankets, or furniture that might fall onto them or get drawn in by air movement.  Indoor rated portable propane heaters usually have an automatic shutoff if they get tipped over.  For optimum safety make sure your portable heater does have shutoff switch or secure the heater so it cannot get tipped over.  If your unit has permanently installed furnace make sure all vents are free from blockage and all the duct work is free from being pinched or crushed.  Avoid hanging things in front of air outlets or air returns.  Any unit equipped with propane powered stoves, ovens, or heaters should be equipped with both Carbon Monoxide (CO) and Carbon Dioxide (CO2) sensors to alert you if either of these toxic gases exceeds a safe level.  Most CO2 sensors also react to the presence of propane in the air.  Also monitor the air for the smell of propane.  To be safe you should also use CO and CO2 sensors when using portable gas powered appliances inside too.  Propane itself is odorless but the commercial propane we purchase has an nasty smell added so we can more easily recognize leaks.  Permanently installed furnaces usually isolate the combustion chamber from the interior but portable units do not.  Some are equipped with automatic shutoffs to shut off the propane when the burner goes out.  If you ever use a portable heater that does not have an automatic shutoff and the burner goes out you should smell the propane fairly quickly and should shut down the heater and ventilate the area immediately before attempting to relight the heater.  Yeah, you might lose some of that heat you want, but better to lose the heat than your life!

Cooking stoves should not be used for heating residential spaces either.   True, your cooking stove will heat up the kitchen a bit while your are cooking, but it is not designed for space heating.  Gas stoves emit dangerous fumes.  Furnaces are vented directly to the outside, cooking stoves are not.  Cooking stoves should only be used for short periods of time for cooking and used with proper ventilation.  Electric stove elements are not designed for being used continuously for long periods of time and could short out if you try to use them long enough for area heating.  A burned out element can be expensive to replace and could cause a fire!  Extended use of high wattage stoves could also overheat supply cables and cause a fire some distance from the stove.

Stay warm -- and safe!

Detecting and Fixing RV Roof Leaks

It is fall and in most places rain is on the way or has already arrived.  You want to be sure your RV or camper roof is waterproof and safe.   If you have or even suspect you may have any leaks be sure to cover your unit with a suitable tarp until you can repair the leak.

Leaking roofs can lead to extensive cosmetic and structural damage that can be very difficult and expensive to repair.  If you can catch a leak early you can usually take care of it and avoid the long term consequences.  Leaks can be caused by several different problems.  Impact damage from falling objects like tree limbs and hail is usually easy to find and can often be successfully patched without too much trouble, depending on the type of roofing material and the extent of the damage.  Leaking seams or other failures in the roofing material from aging and/or weather can be harder to locate but are also very common.  Leaking seams can be caulked or sealed; worn out roofing must be replaced.  Another frequent source of leaks is around fixtures on the roof:  roof vents, antennas, roof racks, and air conditioners.  These can usually be taken care of by re-caulking but sometimes they must have the fasteners tightened or be removed and re-bedded to cure the leak.  Re-bedding usually means replacing the butyl tape between the object the the roof.  Roof A/C units may need to be removed and the gasket replaced to cure leaks around them.

The first step is detecting a leak.  That sounds like it should be pretty straightforward, but RV roof leaks can often be very sneaky and the only signs may show up far from the source of the leak.  Water will always choose the path of least resistance.  Roof leaks may be the cause of wet or soggy floors and moldy walls.  A leak in the roof may be completely contained by the ceiling and show up as streaks down the wall or puddles on the floor a long way from where the water is entering the roof.  Sometimes the only noticeable symptom of a roof leak is a persistent foul smell caused by mold and mildew somewhere behind walls or ceilings.  Excessive condensation may also be a clue that you have a leak somewhere that is allowing an unusual amount of water into the vehicle.  Of course, some condensation is normal, especially in damp climates but if you begin to see a lot more than you normally see, you might suspect a leak somewhere.  Some leaks are obvious, with water dripping from A/C panels or light fixtures every time it rains or you wash your rig.  Some show up as damp or discolored patches on the ceiling or along seams.  Streaks on the walls anywhere except below windows are an indication of a roof leak (streaks under windows can be caused by leaky windows).  Sometimes you can do some tests to help locate where the water is coming it by watering the roof with a hose while someone watches inside.  Take it slow, because it can take some time for water to make its way from where it enters through roof or seam damage to reach the site where it becomes visible on the interior.  I have seen people try to use colored water to trace leaks but be aware any coloring the water may stain interior surfaces so use this technique very cautiously.  You might want to test the colored water on an out of sight portion of  surfaces where it might show up before you start.  Even though you might be able to clean a surface from a short test, long term exposure from a test soaking through from the roof may cause permanent stains that are difficult or impossible to remove.

Leaking roofs often stain the ceiling.  Sometimes you can remove the stains with household cleaners but really bad stains may require painting or refinishing.  When repainting you will want to apply Kilz as a primer to seal the stains so they don't show through the finish coat.  If the surface is damaged too badly for paint you might be able to install a new ceiling panel.  The first choice would be to match the original panel.  If that isn't possible pre-finished plywood paneling or FRP are good choices.  FRP will be easier to clean.  You will probably have to remove any light fixtures, vents, or antennas in the area to be replaced and remove all the moldings where the ceiling meets the walls or cabinets.  Take care removing the moldings so they can be reused.  If the moldings are damaged you may need to install new ones along with the new panels.  It is a good idea to number the moldings and where they go to make it easier to reinstall them.  You can either install a new panel over the old one or remove the old ceiling panel and replace it.  Removing the old one reduces weight and gets rid of any old, rotten, smelly material that might cause problems in the future.  It also lets you examine beneath the paneling to determine if there is any additional damage you need to address.

The most common source of RV roof leaks are seams, either along the edges where the roof meets the wall or between sections of the roof.  These seams are usually protected by caulk, but caulk does dry out had should be replaced every year or two.  The next most common problem occurs around fixtures that penetrate the roof, such as A/Cs, vents, lights, antennas, and roof racks.  Most of these problems can be solved by removing the old caulk, cleaning the surfaces, and applying a generous coating of new caulk.  As an alternative to regular caulking you might consider having the entire roof sealed.  I did that with one of my motorhomes.  The company guaranteed no leaks for 10 years and the projected life of the roof sealant was more like 20 years.  I had the motorhome for many years (lost track of exactly how many) and never had any problems.  The coating is one that is used on commercial buildings.  It is white so it helps keep things cooler in summer.  It can be rolled, sprayed, painted, or even dumped on and spread around.  You can do it yourself but the effort it takes to properly clean the roof can be time consuming and having the guarantee may well be worth the cost of having the company do the installation.  Besides that, being roofing experts, they will be able to better detect and correct any defects that might cause future problems.  I believe the company I used was Minnesota Roofing Company, who came to southern California to do RV roofs in the winter when weather in Minnesota wasn't conducive to many roofing jobs.  They would also sell the material for you to do it yourself if you want to do that.

When you find a roof leak, check the surrounding area for soft spots that would indicate dry rot or other structural damage.  You may have to at least partially remove some part of the roofing and maybe the ceiling to effect appropriate repairs.  Look for damage to the roof panels, ceiling panels, and any supporting infrastructure.  Just fixing the leak and leaving the damage is a recipe for more problems. Damage can often occur far from the leak.  A leaking A/C seal on my motorcycle trailer resulted in a rotted out roof panel several feet away where the water pooled around a roof A/C and eventually made its way past the aging seals.   Rotted out roofing panels have to be removed and replaced.  That can be a really big job, especially if the underlying structural support is damaged or if there are interior cabinets that might be affected by the repair.  When replacing RV roof panels, match the paneling as closely as possible to the thickness and rating of the original panel.  Then cover it with a matching roofing material.  Most RV roofing panels are made of exterior plywood that is pretty easy to match up.

RV Roof A/Cs are sometimes the source of leaks because of gasket failure, even if the visible signs of leakage are some distance away from the A/C.  The gaskets are relatively inexpensive and not too difficult to replace.  If you start seeing moisture or discoloration on the ceiling around your A/C it is probably time to replace the gasket.  Early replacement can prevent additional damage that can be costly to repair.  Almost RV roof air conditioners fit a 14"x14" opening in the roof and most, but not all, use a universal 14"x14" gasket.  Be sure to disassemble the unit far enough to measure the old gasket before ordering a new one.  I recently had to work on a 20+ year old unit that needed a non-standard gasket.  Amy in our local RV store (Gary's RV Store in Springfield, Oregon) spent a lot of time and effort attempting to help us find the right gasket.  She eventually sent us to her supplier, Airxcel, manufacturers of Coleman Mach Series and Maxxair air conditioners.  Their customer service was very quick to respond and helped us find the right gasket.

Another cause of leaks around roof A/Cs is sagging.  Roof A/C units are fairly heavy and if the roof was not properly structured to support the weight sagging will result.  This causes any water that falls on the roof to pool around the A/C and the sagging often compromises the gasket seal between the A/C unit and the roof.  If the roof has sagged you will need to upgrade the structural supports to restore it to level and properly support the weight of the A/C.    Be sure to remove all damaged supports and replace them with securely anchored new material.  Unless you have reasonably good carpentery skills and the proper tools this is probably best left to professionals.

If your roof is structurally sound you probably only need to replace the gasket.   Over time gaskets, which are under pressure from the weight of the unit and from tightened fasteners, get compressed to otherwise begin to deteriorate resulting in leaks.  If you have a manual for the A/C follow the manufacturer's instructions to remove the A/C and replace the gasket.  Lacking a manual, you will first need to remove the interior shroud.  Doing so might allow you to confirm if the unit is leaking.  If you decide to replace the gasket you will need to locate the fasteners (bolts or screws) that secure the interior base plate to the bottom of the A/C.  You will probably have to unplug wiring too.  Then lift or tilt the A/C up out of the way.  The old gasket should be stuck to the base of the A/C.  Remove the old gasket and any residue completely and carefully clean the mounting surface before installing the new gasket.  You can usually scrape the old gasket off with a putty knife and clean the residual adhesive with solvent.  Take care not to spill solvent on rubber roofs!  While the roof where it sits is exposed use a level or straightedge to determine if the mounting platform has sagged.  If there are any low spots you will need to correct the structural defects before proceeding.  Then attach the new gasket to the bottom of the unit and lower the A/C back into place and reinstall the base plate on the inside to snug it down and secure it to the roof.  Plug in the wiring and reinstall the interior shroud.   Be sure to carefully inspect the roof and supporting structure and make any necessary repairs before reinstalling the A/C.

The use of caulk, silicone, or liquid sealers along with the A/C gasket is not recommended.  The gasket is designed to compress and form a tight seal.  Any added sealers may interfere with its normal function and sometimes may actually damage and destroy the integrity of the gasket.

A few RVs have a domed roof that helps keep water from accumulating under A/C units, but most have flat roofs.   If yours has a flat roof and water tends to puddle around the A/C you might be able to build up a little platform around the opening to help it shed water.  This would be easiest to do if you were removing and replacing the roofing but you might be able to do it without removing the roofing if you have good finish carpentery or cabinet making skills to make the shims necessary.  The shims should create a flat, level platform at that extends outside the roof opening far enough to support the entire A/C gasket.  Then you will need tapered shims from the flat platform extending a few inches to support the roofing.  Making and installing those tapered shims could be a bit of a challenge unless you have the right wood working skills.  The mitered corners will have to taper in two or even three dimensions!

Most roof A/Cs are designed to fit a standard 14 x 14 roof opening.  Make sure you know the size of the old gasket before purchasing a replacement gasket.  Standard gaskets sell for around $30 or less; premium gaskets can cost over $50.  However, given the high value of many RVs and the high cost of repairing water damage it may be a good idea to opt for the premium gasket if you have the budget for it and plan to keep the RV for any significant length of time, but I have seen standard gaskets work perfectly well for 20 years or more.    I had to replace the gasket on a very old unit that needed a gasket that was about 15"x 151/2" inside dimensions and with shipping it cost over $90!  NEVER attempt to replace or repair a leaking gasket using caulk or silicone sealer.  It might work for a little while but you can be sure it will fail a lot sooner than making a proper repair by replacing the gasket with the correct one.  The solvents in some sealing compounds could damage the gasket causing even more problems.

Prevention is always better than repair!   Many roof problems can be prevented by proper preventative measures.  Regular inspections for deteriorating caulk or damage can help you seal seams or repair holes BEFORE they start to leak.  Avoid loading heavy or sharp objects onto an RV roof and make sure you have sufficient clearance before driving under trees where low-hanging branches might damage the roof.  Be careful when walking on an RV roof and make sure there is no sharp debris caught in the tread on the soles of your shoes.  Standard seam caulking should be inspected frequently and typical maintenance schedules call for stripping it off and redoing it about once a year.  Some roof coatings, such as those supplied by Minnesota Roofing, may reduce the need for frequent caulking.  When inspecting the caulking be sure to examine all the seams (including those where the roof on some RVs wraps down over the side wall) and around all vents, antennas, etc, that project through the roof.

Dry up!