Safe Soaps for Campers and Boaters

Why should campers and boaters be concerned about using safe soap?  Well, soaps and detergents can be harmful to the environment and if used improperly or in the wrong places may contaminate drinking water sources.   If you only use the sanitation facilities with holding tanks on your RV, camper, or boat, you can probably use the same favorite products you use at home.  Do consider whether any products will adversely affect hold tank chemical performance.  However, if you use outdoor facilities you need be careful so that what you use doesn't pollute the environment unnecessarily.

Your choice of soaps and detergents may be limited if you or anyone in your immediate group has allergies or sensitive skin.   If possible, test any options at home before you head out on your adventures.  You don't want to be out and about with no access to remedies or alternatives when you discover a product that causes someone problems.

Personal hygiene is just as important, perhaps even more important, when we are out camping or boating than it is at home.  However, at home the waste from washing dishes. clothes or our bodies usually goes into appropriate sewer or septic systems so it doesn't harm the environment.  When we are out on the water or in the wild we must take precautions to ensure waste water doesn't contaminate drinking water sources or do other damage to the environment.  Never dump any waste water within 200' of wells, springs, streams, or other bodies of water.  Developed campgrounds often have a designated, gravel area to dump wash water.  Indiscriminately dumping it elsewhere on the landscape can create serious environmental problems.  If you drink water from the campground, you might even be polluting the water your drink!

When you are camping in an fully self-contained RV or boat with holding tanks you can generally treat the sinks and basins much like you would the ones at home and can usually use the same favorite products you use at home.  You will usually find it beneficial to avoid putting too much organic waste down the drain as it tends to build up in drain pipes and holding tanks and can cause unpleasant odors, clog sensors, and even blockages.  Consider wiping dishes with a wad of newspaper before washing them, then burn the newspaper in your campfire.   But, if you are bathing or washing dishes or dumping waste water outside you need to make sure the products you use are environmentally safe.  Excess soaps may introduce over sudsing into your grey water tank, making it fill quicker than usual, result in backflow, and perhaps interfere with proper dumping.  You might want to cut back a bit on how much shampoo you use on your hair.  Along that line, I like to use a combination shampoo and conditioner to minimize both chemicals and the amount of water used washing hair.

Some commonly used soaps, such as Dawn dish washing detergent, are reportedly safe to use when camping.  BTW, Dawn is a good solution if you should happen to get sprayed with bear spray or mace.  The usual recomnended treatment is Baby Shampoo, but it often isn't strong enough to neutralize the powerful oils in pepper sprays.  Always look for biodegradable soaps for use when camping.  However, you must always consider where your waste water is going.  If you are on or near a lake or stream that is a source of drinking water you should avoid allowing any waste to enter the water.  You should never dump waste water within 200 feet of a water source.  Some campgrounds have special dish washing sumps where you can safely dump dish water or water from washing clothes.  They are usually a small depression with gravel on top.  Beneath that is typically a pit or barrel with several feet of sand and gravel that filters the water before allowing it so seep out into the ground.  Lacking any designated place to dump soapy water, dump it well away (at least 200 feet) from any lake, stream, pond, or well and far enough away from camp that it doesn't make a smelly, muddy mess anywhere you will be walking.  I have seen RVs run a drain hose from there gray water tanks out into the desert to avoid filling the holding tank too quickly.   Thirsty desert plants may appreciate the extra hydration.  In some places that may be illegal so be sure to check local rules before doing that.  Then, remember to keep waste water away from any ground water and out of trails, pathways, roads, and camp sites.  I have seen people route their grey water dump hoses into existing holes in the ground.  But, remember, those holes are probably home to desert creatures you might harm and it could create a dangerous situation if it drives a rattlesnake out of its hole and into your camp!

If you are not sure if your soap is environmentally safe, don't use it where it can contaminate the environment!  There are biodegradable soaps available for almost all needs.  They come in liquid, bar, and powder form and Coleman even offers biodegradable soap sheets that are convenient for all kinds of outdoor activities, even back packing.   Do a quick Internet search for "safe soap for campers" to get a list of products and brands that are suitable for camping and boating.

Liquid soaps are convenient for use at home and often in RVs and boats, but bar soap is usually easier to deal with when tent camping and hiking.  You can even find shampoo in bar form if you look around.  Bar soap should be kept in a plastic soap container or sealable plastic bag to prevent it from getting all over the things around it and protect it from becoming contaminated.  Lacking a soap container, tuck it into a zip lock style bag.  Some camp friendly soap comes in tubes like toothpaste which makes it clean, compact, and easy to carry and convenient to dispense of when it is empty.

Wet wipes are a convenient alternative for lots of small cleanup jobs.  They are light weight, compact, don't spill, and can be easily disposed of in regular trash or even burned in a campfire.

Just because your boat has a sink or basin doesn't mean you can dump your soapy waste down  there.   The sinks and basins on many small boats drain directly out through the hull into the water.  Even just the soapy water from washing your hands could contaminate the water around your boat.  If your boat sink drains into a holding tank, it may be safe for soapy water, but if it drains directly out through the hull, it definitely is not. 

Some community water sources, likes lakes and rivers, may even prohibit bathing, swimming, or any bodily contact with the water.  Be especially careful to avoid allowing waste water to enter the water in such places.

With just a little common sense and obeying reasonable rules we can enjoy good outdoor hygiene and protect the environment!  Failure to comply could result in closure of popular venues.

Clean up!

OHV Water Crossings

With a large share of OHV riding areas being in locations that are usually undesireable for camping, springs, ponds, streams, and lakes are often quite rare sights for OHV riders.   Therefore, many OHV riders seldom get a chance to experience water crossings and may not know how to safely handle them if/when they do encounter them.  When you do find them they can be quite a lot of fun  -- if you know how to engage them safely.

Water crossings require special techniques for both safely negotiating them and avoiding unnecessary environmental damage.   Shallow, slow moving water is usually fairly easy to cross unless there are submerged obstacles, holes, ruts, or deep mud that might impede your progress.  Try to pick a path that has no visible obstacles, then drive or ride smoothly and steadily through the water.  It may seem like fun to hit it hard and faster and throw up a big wake or rooster tail, but in most cases you will soon regret the drenching you give both you and your machine or your fellow riders.  Hitting it too fast can even cause you to hydroplane.  I have seen videos of guys riding a dirtbike on top of the water on a small pond at high speed.  Avoid kicking up too much water.  Too much water can enter air intakes or short out electrical systems, leaving you stranded in the middle somewhere.   If you happen to lay the bike down in the water it may suck water into the engine, creating a hydraulic lock that is difficult and time consuming to resolve, not to mention expensive if you can't do it yourself.  Fast moving streams can be very dangerous to cross.  It only takes a 6-8"of fast moving water to sweep a dirt bike or ATV -- or a person! -- downstream.  One of the perils of fast moving streams is that the moving water prevents you from viewing the bottom and may hide rocks or deep pockets that are impossible to negotiate.  If you determine crossing the water is safe, use a moderate speed and try to maintain steady momentum all the way across.  Slowing down in the middle can result in you getting stuck and stranded.  Trying to speed up may drench you and the electrical system on your ride, also leaving you stuck and stranded.  Be careful even of crossings you may have used before.  Spring runoff or recent rains or snowmelt can swell streams.  The difference is not always obvious and it is easy to get surprised by faster, deeper water than you are expecting.

How you approach water crossings will be somewhat determined by what kind of vehicle you are operating.  UTVs provide more protection for occupants than dirt bikes and ATVs.  However, they may be subject to different kinds of damage.  I have seen UTVs with shattered radiator fans caused by driving through water deep enough to break the plastic fins on the fans and causing the engines to overheat shortly after leaving the water.  The front wheels on dirt bikes and ATVs will throw up enough wake to thoroughly soak the riders and the machine if you hit the water too fast.  Dirt bikes are more likely to feel the effects of the current than ATVs and UTVs.  UTVs may lose traction in deep water because the body will often cause it to float -- at least until enough water flows inside to offset the displacement.

Many streams or bodies of water you might encounter are part of the local drinking water supply.  Excessive vehicle activity can impact water purity.  Muddy banks are easily damaged by powerful OHVs so  you want to avoid aggressive throttle when entering or leaving the water if possible.   Look for alternatives, such as riding around the wet areas, bridges, or routes that other vehicles have used.  Crossing streams where frequently used roads or trails cross is usually pretty safe, but use extra caution anytime there is a chance of unusually high water, like current or recent rain or snow melt.  Be sure to enter and exit the stream where the road or trail appears to be and it looks like other vehicles may have gone.

Some existing roads and trails have regular water crossings that sometimes have concrete paving to provide a safe place to ford streams.  These are usually relatively free from rocks and other debris but are often quite slick from algae and slime at the bottom of the stream.  Here again you want to maintain smooth, steady control to avoid slipping and sliding.  Flash floods can deposit rocks and other debris on concrete fords so exercise caution if there is anything obscuring your view of the submerged road.

Carefully plan your crossing before you start.  You need to know how you  are going to approach the water, the path you are going to take through it, and how your are going to exit.  I once saw an unattentive rider smack head on into the vertical far bank of a creek when he failed to see that the exit wasn't directly across from the entry, literally knocking the crap out of him!  Good thing he did a better job looking ahead when riding through the trees getting there!

Since many of the streams we cross are used by other people or as a drinking water source we need to be considerate of other users and prevent unnecessary contamination of the water.  If you see other people swimming, wading, or fishing nearby, exercise extra caution so you don't splash them or foul the water around them or upstream from them.

Water crossings are sometimes necessary and sometimes just a fun way to cool off on a hot summer's day.  However, always exercise caution and be courteous of other riders or other people enjoying the stream.

Safe Crossing!

RV Generator Troubleshooting

RV Generators provide the 120 volt power that facilitates much of the home-like conveniences we enjoy in our RVs.  When they don't work, it can cause a lot of discomfort and frustration.  Here are some of the most common generator related problems and how you can often fix them in the field.

Not plugged in.  Surprisingly, one of the most common problems is a generator that is not plugged in.  Some RVs, especially high end models, have automatic transfer switches that automatically connect the generator to the RV power panel whenever the generator is running.  Also you need to be aware there is usually a short time delay between when the generator starts and when the transfer switch gives access to it.  That is to allow the engine on the generator a chance to stabilize before putting a load on it.  On RVs that do not have an automatic transfer switch you have to plug the RV shore power cable into an outlet connected to the RV generator.  A surprising number of users, especially new or novice users, fail or forget to perform or check this very basic connection before calling a service technician.   All too often the user simply forgot to plug the cord into the generator receptacle.  Sometimes the cord plugged into the generator receptacle some how comes loose.  You should always check the power cord before calling for help.  Obviously, if the problem is that the shore power isn't plugged in it is very easy fix to plug it in.  Along that line, some people forget to plug in shore power at RV parks or fail to check to see if it has gotten unplugged and then complain to park management that the power at their site isn't working.  Always make sure you are securely plugged in before calling for help.  Sometimes your shore power cable may get accidentally unplugged or you might even be the victim of vandals who unplug power cables just for malicious fun.

Tripped circuit breakers.  RVs have a 120 volt power panel with circuit breakers, similar to the one in your home.  If some parts of the RV have power and others don't, this is where the problem likely is.  Resetting a tripped breaker usually solves the problem.  If it keeps tripping you need to find out what extra load is on that breaker and remove it.  In rare cases, a breaker may get worn or weak and trip before reaching its normal load, but tripped breakers are usually caused by users putting too much load on the circuit.  Adding things like electric heaters or other appliances is one frequent source of overloads.  A breaker that pops immediately and consistently often indicates some kind of short or other overload in the electrical system that needs to be corrected.  Simultaneous use of high wattage appliances on the same circuit is often the cause of tripped breakers.  It is OK to attach multiple appliances to the same circuit, like a microwave oven and a toaster, but try not to use them at the same time to avoid overloading the circuit and tripping the breaker.  Frequent overloading of a circuit and tripping the breaker can weaken the breaker and it will need to be replaced.

Generator breakers.  Generators have their own built in circuit breakers.  If you lose power throughout the RV all at once, a tripped breaker on the generator is the most likely culprit.  Some generator breakers are clearly marked and easily recognized.  However, some have markings that are hard to locate or hard to see and the breakers may look like ordinary toggle switches.  In either case, locating and resetting the breaker(s) usually solves the problem.  The breakers will trip if the total demand from the power panel exceeds the rating of the breaker.  Normal use of an RV shouldn't exceed the power rating but sometimes added equipment may cycle simultaneously causing a spike in demand and tripping the breaker.  A one time failure needs only to be reset.  Repeated failures indicate some kind of continuous overload that needs to be diagnosed and eliminated.  I once thought I had a transfer switch problem because I had trouble finding the tripped breakers on the generator.  The labels had been obscured by dirt and oil and the breakers were toggle switches out of sight on one end of the generator instead recognizable breakers up front where I could easily see them.   On this generator the labels were near the right front bottom corner of the generator where they had gotten covered with oil and dirt and the breakers were located near the front bottom corner of the right hand end (not the front) of the generator, with little room next to them and impossible to view.  I needed to use a mechanic's mirror to see them so I could verify which way was on and which was off in order to reset them.

Generator shuts down during use.  RV generators are powered by gasoline, diesel, or propane engines.  Obviously they will shut down if they run out of fuel.  The fuel taps in the fuel tanks for the generators are usually placed higher than the taps for the engine or other appliances so running the generator won't run you out of fuel and leave you stranded.  If your generator shuts down while running, the first thing you should check is the fuel level.  On gasoline powered vehicles the generator tap is usually placed at about 1/4 of the tank to leave you enough fuel to hopefully drive to a filling station once the generator runs out of fuel.   Propane generators run on liquid propane from the bottom of the tank.  Propane appliances, like stoves, furnaces, and water heaters, run on gaseous propane from further up in the tank.  For that reason, generators will not run from the popular "Extend-a-Stay"setups that attach extra, external propane cylinders to the system.  A second reason for generators to shut down while running is low oil.  Most generators have sensors that detect low oil and shut the engines down before they are damaged by lack of lubrication.  If your generator shuts down and your fuel supply is adequate, check the oil level.  If it is low, bring it up to the full mark before attempting to restart the generator.  Sometimes overheating can cause the engine to shut down.  You are most likely to experience this during hot summer days running the roof A/C but it can occur at other times.  Check to make sure there is nothing blocking the air vents to the generator compartment.  One more possible fuel related problem is clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump.  You might be able to remove a clogged filter and blow backwards through it to clean out some of the debris to buy you a little more time but clogged filters should be replaced as soon as possible.  Attempting to operate the engine without a functioning fuel filter may cause expensive damage to the engine.  A failed fuel pump will have to be replaced.  If you are a fairly good DIY mechanic you should be able to replace it yourself on site if you can get a replacement.  Most of the generators I've worked on used electric fuel pumps.  Be sure to check the power and verify there isn't a blown fuse.  In a pinch you might be able to use just about any after market electric fuel pump from an automotive store to replace a bad pump on a generator.  A third reason for generators to shut down is over heating.  Many generators are air cooled so make sure the air flow around the generator is not restricted.  Never use the generator compartment for extra storage.  If you happen to have a liquid cooled generator, make sure the coolant level isn't low and make sure the radiator isn't damaged or blocked and that radiator hoses aren't collapsed or clogged.  If you are in unusually dusty conditions or your air filter hasn't been properly maintained, a clogged air filter can create problems.  Cleaning or replacing the air filter should easily solve such problems.

Proper operating and maintenance procedures will minimize generator problems.  Religiously follow the schedule for oil and filter changes, both air and fuel.  Check the oil before each trip and often during between uses.  Clean or replace the air filter per the recommended schedule or more often if operating in dusty conditions.  Check the coolant level and radiator hoses on liquid cooled units before operation.  Make sure there is adequate ventilation for air cooled models.

A surprising number of calls to mobile RV mechanics for generator problems are due to simple user errors that  don't really require a technician.  If you don't have an automatic transfer switch, make sure your shore power cord is plugged in to the generator receptacle.  Check for low fuel or low oil if your generator shuts down.  Regularly perform routine maintenance such as changing the oil and replacing oil, air, and fuel filters to minimize failures and maintain performance.

Power up!

What Can Campers Do This Time of Year (January)?

It is the middle of January here in the western United States.  Not exactly ideal weather for camping in most places in the Northern Hemisphere.  So, what, if anything, can campers do this time of year besides wish camping season were here?

Well, actually, there are lots of things we can do, if we have a mind to.  Our options for heading out onto the trails or into the forest (or even the desert) might be limited  by weather and temperature right now, but there are other things we can do to stay active and productive.  Winter is a good time to do some good preventive maintenance on our equip, perhaps do some shopping for new camping clothes and gear, look into new equipment we might want to try out, and research places to go when the season opens in in a few months.

Preventive Maintenance should include inspecting all our gear and repairing or replacing damaged items as necessary.  It is a good time to re-oil the leather seals on camp stove and lantern plungers, clean burners and gas lines (spiders like to nest in them!), inspect tents, sleeping bags, and camp clothing.  These items might need to be cleaned if they weren't cleaned before storage or if they have become contaminated during storage.  Tents might benefit from a new coating of waterproofing.  Any missing or damaged loops or fasteners should be repaired or replaced.  Tears in tents, sleeping bags, and camp clothing should be stitched and any tent repairs sealed.  Hiking and riding boots should be cleaning and inspected and sprayed with waterproofing.   Look for missing, worn, or damaged latches and laces and repair or replace as necessary.  Worn soles or heals?  Now is a good time to take them to the shoe repair shop and get them fixed so they will be ready to use when you are ready to use them.  Check flashlights and other battery powered equipment.  Hopefully you removed the batteries before putting them in storage.  If not, you may now have corroded batteries that need to be removed and the compartments and contacts thoroughly cleaned.  

The off season is also a good time to make wanted improvements or enhancements to our equipment.  Major additions to RVs, campers, and boats can be done now without impacting use during the normal recreational season.  Of course, if any of our mechanical devices need repair, now is a generally a good time to get it done.  Anything in the interior can usually be done regardless of weather but some external repairs or additions (roof repairs for example) might require waiting until better weather, but you may be able to perform inspections now to make plans and get the necessary materials you will need when you can work outside.  It is a good time to check batteries and make sure everything is properly lubricated.  If your equipment is sheltered from the elements you can most likely proceed with any desired improvements regardless of weather.

The off season is a good time to do research on new equipment, new activities, and new destinations.   You will probably not want to take time for it during actual camping season when you can get out and go places and having some lead time to prepare for new adventures is always helpful.  The Internet provides lots of resources for researching new gear, activities and destinations. You can usually find a plethora of articles and videos to help you evaluate new options and find the best prices and fastest delivery of  purchases.  It is nice to be able to read reviews and watch Youtube videos before you spend a lot of money on some new gadget.  You might even want to do some background research on your favorite destinations and activities to learn more of their use and history.  You never know what interesting or even useful information you might gain.  I had been dirt biking the Mojave Desert for several years before I learned the stories behind some of the familiar landmarks we explored or encountered during our rides.  One of our favorite campsites had, at one time, been a way station for the famous 20 Mule Teams hauling borax out of Death Valley and later a railroad switching center.   A popular rugged desert site we often rode our dirt bikes to and through had been used to train astronauts for the moon landings and used in many movies.  I even located a memorial marking the crash site of an X-15.   I also like to learn what I can about the flora and fauna of areas we go to.  It can be helpful to know what precautions you might need to take against animal attacks.  Our most frequent threat in the desert was rattlesnakes and scorpions.  Many plants may be edible or even have medical properties in an emergency.  However, what might be useful in any given area is dependent on what grows there.  Knowing the wondrous medical properties of esoteric tropical rain forest plants isn't going to do you much good in a North American forest or desert, but knowing the benefits of things like willows, poplars, and even sage brush, might very well be.  BTW, the bark of willows, poplars, and aspens, contain salicylic acid, the natural equivalent of aspirin and sage brush can be used to make an effective disinfectant solution as well as providing a fragrant, easy-to-light fuel for campfires.  I have found that chewing the bark from about 6" of small (1/8") willow branches had about the same affect as taking two aspirin.   While it may not taste like candy, the taste is not too unpleasant.

Some adventurous people actually do go camping in winter weather.  If you choose to explore these options, make sure your equipment, including your clothing, is properly configured for winter use.  most RVs, campers, and boats, are designed or adapted for use in mild weather.  They must be appropriately "hardened" for use below freezing temperatures, not only for your comfort, but to prevent serious damage to the equipment.  Water expands when it freezes you must protect anything that hods water:  plumbing, water jugs, cooling systems, etc.  Simple things like parking an RV, setting up a tent, or making a campfire, require extra considerations when camping in snow or freezing weather.  Having shelter and clothing appropriate to the conditions you are in could literally mean the difference between life and death and will certainly be necessary for comfort!  You might find it useful to try some cold-weather camping as a means to prepare for winter emergencies.

Get off the couch and do something!

Don't Use A Cooking Stove For Area Heating

If you own an RV, camper, or boat, no doubt you have noticed that cooking inside warms up the interior.  Doesn't matter if you are using a built in stove or a free-standing camp stove.  On cooler days that can be an asset but on warmer days it just makes things worse.  Some RVs now offer exterior kitchens for additional options for cooking outside.  Cooking outside can be fun and convenient as well as reducing unwanted heat (and odors) inside. On colder days, cooking inside is probably more comfortable and helps warm the interior.  The same thing, of course, applies to cooking at home, but the affects in an RV are usually more noticeable.  However, never use a cooking stove for general area heating  -- in your RV, camper, boat or at home.  It simply isn't safe!

When a camper or boat lacks a heater or furnace (or the furnace goes out at home) it is often tempting to use the cooking stove to heat the interior.    Never a good idea!  Cooking stoves are not designed for area heating, although they usually do warm up the room or compartment they are in when being used for cooking.  Gas stoves can put off toxic fumes such as Carbon Monoxide (CO) as well as Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and water vapor.  They also consume oxygen so they can cause suffocation even if you aren't poisoned by the CO or CO2.  ALWAYS use adequate ventilation when cooking with a gas stove.  NEVER use a cooking stove just for area heating!  When you are cooking you are usually paying some attention to the stove and only use it for a short time.  When using it for area heating it is WAY too easy to forget about it and that can have very dangerous consequences, including fires, illness, and even death from toxic fumes or suffocation when the stove uses up all the oxygen in the interior space or fills it with carbon monoxide.  Carbon monoxide is invisible, tasteless, and odorless to you can't detect it without special equipment.  Gas stoves should be vented to the outside, but even then some of the fumes will drift around inside putting you and your environment at risk.  Electric stoves may not have the same risks of toxic fumes or oxygen depletion but the heating elements are NOT designed for long term area heating.  Attempting to use them for that is likely to result in burning out the elements and possibly causing a fire.  They also use a lot of electricity.  Just watch the meter spin sometime when you are using one.  And electricity costs money, sometimes a lot of money!

If your unit has a cooking stove but no space heater and you need to warm things up, use the cooking stove to boil some water to make hot drinks.   Then turn the stove off.  The stove will provide some warming to the interior while you are heating the water and then the hot drink will help warm you from the inside out.  Maybe heat up some TV dinners or bake a pie if you need more heat for both you and your unit.  But do not just run the stove unless you are cooking on it!  They are simply not designed for long term unattended operation!

Why is it OK to  use your stove to cook but not heat?  First of all, cooking is usually limited to fairly short amounts of time while space heating is often needed continuously.   Secondly, you are more likely to notice adverse conditions or reactions while you are actively cooking than you would doing other activities, especially if you are relaxing or sleeping!  A third and most serious consideration with gas stoves is that the exhaust from furnaces exits through a stove pipe or side vent directly outside while the exhaust from cooking stoves goes directly into the interior atmosphere you are breathing!  People are mostly used to opening appropriate windows or vents for adequate ventilation while cooking but we are mostly accustomed to furnaces and heaters whose combustion takes place in a sealed compartment that is always vented outside so folks are likely to forget to provide adequate venting, especially if it is cold outside and you want to keep the heat in.   In any case, gas cooking stoves will create lots of toxic fumes which can be extremely dangerous and even fatal!  In addition, furnaces get their air from the outside and cooking stoves use the same air you are breathing.  The flames consume oxygen and quite a number of campers have suffocated when using gas-powered appliances in a closed space without adequate ventilation.   Usually opening a couple of windows about an inch on opposite sides or ends of an RV will provide enough ventilation for lanterns.  I would use more if I were using a stove.  Properly installed furnaces use fresh outside air for combustion; cooking stoves use the same air you are breathing!  Want to bet whether the flames or your lungs will get any available oxygen out of the air?  Not something I would bet my life on for sure! (BTW, the flames would win and you would lose -- combustion is a lot more efficient at using oxygen than our lungs are).

If you need auxiliary heat in an RV, camper, or boat cabin, get a heater properly rated and configured for your application.  There are catalytic propane heaters designed for indoor use that can usually be used safely in RVs, tents, and campers if used appropriately according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Use of propane heaters in boats is not recommended but I have seen people do it.  Should there be any propane leak, propane is heavier than air and will accumulate in the bilge creating a hazard for explosion.  The small, self contained propane cylinders that screw directly to the heater are designed to re-seal themselves when removed, reducing the chance of a propane leak and I have seen people use them in reasonable safety on boats.  Permanently installed propane appliances have gas lines and fittings that can get loose or damaged and leak so they are strongly discouraged on boats.  Boats often take more of a beating out on the waves than RVs do even on rough roads, increasing the risk of gas leaks.  There are no springs or shock absorbers on boats!  In addition, weather resistant RVs have more natural ventilation than waterproof boat hulls so fumes are more likely to accumulate, especially down in the bilge where gasoline and propane fumes will settle.

Electric heaters are usually pretty safe to use in just about any indoor environment.  The only downside really is the need for a significant amount of 120 volt AC power.  I have seen a few 12 volt DC heaters but they don't provide a lot f heat and their power consumption draws down RV, camper, and boat batteries pretty fast.  Electric heaters are not too appealing for use on boats.  Water and electricity don't mix!  A little water in the bilge might be a nuisance under normal circumstances but add an electric heater and you could get electrocuted!  Also, the added weight of generators or solar panels and battery banks sufficient to support an electric heater usually discourages use on small boats where weight is critical.

When using any heater or furnace do it safely.  Permanently installed heaters or furnaces in RVs, campers, and boats will be properly installed in cabinets that ensure adequate ventilation and sufficient clearance between heating chambers and surrounding structures.  Never use furnace cabinets for storage!  The units require a certain amount of air circulation for both efficient operation and safety.  When using space heaters be sure to place them far enough away from walls, cabinets, furniture and other combustible materials so they don't pose a risk.  Avoid putting any heater near curtains, drapes, clothes, towels, blankets, or furniture that might fall onto them or get drawn in by air movement.  Indoor rated portable propane heaters usually have an automatic shutoff if they get tipped over.  For optimum safety make sure your portable heater does have shutoff switch or secure the heater so it cannot get tipped over.  If your unit has permanently installed furnace make sure all vents are free from blockage and all the duct work is free from being pinched or crushed.  Avoid hanging things in front of air outlets or air returns.  Any unit equipped with propane powered stoves, ovens, or heaters should be equipped with both Carbon Monoxide (CO) and Carbon Dioxide (CO2) sensors to alert you if either of these toxic gases exceeds a safe level.  Most CO2 sensors also react to the presence of propane in the air.  Also monitor the air for the smell of propane.  To be safe you should also use CO and CO2 sensors when using portable gas powered appliances inside too.  Propane itself is odorless but the commercial propane we purchase has an nasty smell added so we can more easily recognize leaks.  Permanently installed furnaces usually isolate the combustion chamber from the interior but portable units do not.  Some are equipped with automatic shutoffs to shut off the propane when the burner goes out.  If you ever use a portable heater that does not have an automatic shutoff and the burner goes out you should smell the propane fairly quickly and should shut down the heater and ventilate the area immediately before attempting to relight the heater.  Yeah, you might lose some of that heat you want, but better to lose the heat than your life!

Cooking stoves should not be used for heating residential spaces either.   True, your cooking stove will heat up the kitchen a bit while your are cooking, but it is not designed for space heating.  Gas stoves emit dangerous fumes.  Furnaces are vented directly to the outside, cooking stoves are not.  Cooking stoves should only be used for short periods of time for cooking and used with proper ventilation.  Electric stove elements are not designed for being used continuously for long periods of time and could short out if you try to use them long enough for area heating.  A burned out element can be expensive to replace and could cause a fire!  Extended use of high wattage stoves could also overheat supply cables and cause a fire some distance from the stove.

Stay warm -- and safe!

Detecting and Fixing RV Roof Leaks

It is fall and in most places rain is on the way or has already arrived.  You want to be sure your RV or camper roof is waterproof and safe.   If you have or even suspect you may have any leaks be sure to cover your unit with a suitable tarp until you can repair the leak.

Leaking roofs can lead to extensive cosmetic and structural damage that can be very difficult and expensive to repair.  If you can catch a leak early you can usually take care of it and avoid the long term consequences.  Leaks can be caused by several different problems.  Impact damage from falling objects like tree limbs and hail is usually easy to find and can often be successfully patched without too much trouble, depending on the type of roofing material and the extent of the damage.  Leaking seams or other failures in the roofing material from aging and/or weather can be harder to locate but are also very common.  Leaking seams can be caulked or sealed; worn out roofing must be replaced.  Another frequent source of leaks is around fixtures on the roof:  roof vents, antennas, roof racks, and air conditioners.  These can usually be taken care of by re-caulking but sometimes they must have the fasteners tightened or be removed and re-bedded to cure the leak.  Re-bedding usually means replacing the butyl tape between the object the the roof.  Roof A/C units may need to be removed and the gasket replaced to cure leaks around them.

The first step is detecting a leak.  That sounds like it should be pretty straightforward, but RV roof leaks can often be very sneaky and the only signs may show up far from the source of the leak.  Water will always choose the path of least resistance.  Roof leaks may be the cause of wet or soggy floors and moldy walls.  A leak in the roof may be completely contained by the ceiling and show up as streaks down the wall or puddles on the floor a long way from where the water is entering the roof.  Sometimes the only noticeable symptom of a roof leak is a persistent foul smell caused by mold and mildew somewhere behind walls or ceilings.  Excessive condensation may also be a clue that you have a leak somewhere that is allowing an unusual amount of water into the vehicle.  Of course, some condensation is normal, especially in damp climates but if you begin to see a lot more than you normally see, you might suspect a leak somewhere.  Some leaks are obvious, with water dripping from A/C panels or light fixtures every time it rains or you wash your rig.  Some show up as damp or discolored patches on the ceiling or along seams.  Streaks on the walls anywhere except below windows are an indication of a roof leak (streaks under windows can be caused by leaky windows).  Sometimes you can do some tests to help locate where the water is coming it by watering the roof with a hose while someone watches inside.  Take it slow, because it can take some time for water to make its way from where it enters through roof or seam damage to reach the site where it becomes visible on the interior.  I have seen people try to use colored water to trace leaks but be aware any coloring the water may stain interior surfaces so use this technique very cautiously.  You might want to test the colored water on an out of sight portion of  surfaces where it might show up before you start.  Even though you might be able to clean a surface from a short test, long term exposure from a test soaking through from the roof may cause permanent stains that are difficult or impossible to remove.

Leaking roofs often stain the ceiling.  Sometimes you can remove the stains with household cleaners but really bad stains may require painting or refinishing.  When repainting you will want to apply Kilz as a primer to seal the stains so they don't show through the finish coat.  If the surface is damaged too badly for paint you might be able to install a new ceiling panel.  The first choice would be to match the original panel.  If that isn't possible pre-finished plywood paneling or FRP are good choices.  FRP will be easier to clean.  You will probably have to remove any light fixtures, vents, or antennas in the area to be replaced and remove all the moldings where the ceiling meets the walls or cabinets.  Take care removing the moldings so they can be reused.  If the moldings are damaged you may need to install new ones along with the new panels.  It is a good idea to number the moldings and where they go to make it easier to reinstall them.  You can either install a new panel over the old one or remove the old ceiling panel and replace it.  Removing the old one reduces weight and gets rid of any old, rotten, smelly material that might cause problems in the future.  It also lets you examine beneath the paneling to determine if there is any additional damage you need to address.

The most common source of RV roof leaks are seams, either along the edges where the roof meets the wall or between sections of the roof.  These seams are usually protected by caulk, but caulk does dry out had should be replaced every year or two.  The next most common problem occurs around fixtures that penetrate the roof, such as A/Cs, vents, lights, antennas, and roof racks.  Most of these problems can be solved by removing the old caulk, cleaning the surfaces, and applying a generous coating of new caulk.  As an alternative to regular caulking you might consider having the entire roof sealed.  I did that with one of my motorhomes.  The company guaranteed no leaks for 10 years and the projected life of the roof sealant was more like 20 years.  I had the motorhome for many years (lost track of exactly how many) and never had any problems.  The coating is one that is used on commercial buildings.  It is white so it helps keep things cooler in summer.  It can be rolled, sprayed, painted, or even dumped on and spread around.  You can do it yourself but the effort it takes to properly clean the roof can be time consuming and having the guarantee may well be worth the cost of having the company do the installation.  Besides that, being roofing experts, they will be able to better detect and correct any defects that might cause future problems.  I believe the company I used was Minnesota Roofing Company, who came to southern California to do RV roofs in the winter when weather in Minnesota wasn't conducive to many roofing jobs.  They would also sell the material for you to do it yourself if you want to do that.

When you find a roof leak, check the surrounding area for soft spots that would indicate dry rot or other structural damage.  You may have to at least partially remove some part of the roofing and maybe the ceiling to effect appropriate repairs.  Look for damage to the roof panels, ceiling panels, and any supporting infrastructure.  Just fixing the leak and leaving the damage is a recipe for more problems. Damage can often occur far from the leak.  A leaking A/C seal on my motorcycle trailer resulted in a rotted out roof panel several feet away where the water pooled around a roof A/C and eventually made its way past the aging seals.   Rotted out roofing panels have to be removed and replaced.  That can be a really big job, especially if the underlying structural support is damaged or if there are interior cabinets that might be affected by the repair.  When replacing RV roof panels, match the paneling as closely as possible to the thickness and rating of the original panel.  Then cover it with a matching roofing material.  Most RV roofing panels are made of exterior plywood that is pretty easy to match up.

RV Roof A/Cs are sometimes the source of leaks because of gasket failure, even if the visible signs of leakage are some distance away from the A/C.  The gaskets are relatively inexpensive and not too difficult to replace.  If you start seeing moisture or discoloration on the ceiling around your A/C it is probably time to replace the gasket.  Early replacement can prevent additional damage that can be costly to repair.  Almost RV roof air conditioners fit a 14"x14" opening in the roof and most, but not all, use a universal 14"x14" gasket.  Be sure to disassemble the unit far enough to measure the old gasket before ordering a new one.  I recently had to work on a 20+ year old unit that needed a non-standard gasket.  Amy in our local RV store (Gary's RV Store in Springfield, Oregon) spent a lot of time and effort attempting to help us find the right gasket.  She eventually sent us to her supplier, Airxcel, manufacturers of Coleman Mach Series and Maxxair air conditioners.  Their customer service was very quick to respond and helped us find the right gasket.

Another cause of leaks around roof A/Cs is sagging.  Roof A/C units are fairly heavy and if the roof was not properly structured to support the weight sagging will result.  This causes any water that falls on the roof to pool around the A/C and the sagging often compromises the gasket seal between the A/C unit and the roof.  If the roof has sagged you will need to upgrade the structural supports to restore it to level and properly support the weight of the A/C.    Be sure to remove all damaged supports and replace them with securely anchored new material.  Unless you have reasonably good carpentery skills and the proper tools this is probably best left to professionals.

If your roof is structurally sound you probably only need to replace the gasket.   Over time gaskets, which are under pressure from the weight of the unit and from tightened fasteners, get compressed to otherwise begin to deteriorate resulting in leaks.  If you have a manual for the A/C follow the manufacturer's instructions to remove the A/C and replace the gasket.  Lacking a manual, you will first need to remove the interior shroud.  Doing so might allow you to confirm if the unit is leaking.  If you decide to replace the gasket you will need to locate the fasteners (bolts or screws) that secure the interior base plate to the bottom of the A/C.  You will probably have to unplug wiring too.  Then lift or tilt the A/C up out of the way.  The old gasket should be stuck to the base of the A/C.  Remove the old gasket and any residue completely and carefully clean the mounting surface before installing the new gasket.  You can usually scrape the old gasket off with a putty knife and clean the residual adhesive with solvent.  Take care not to spill solvent on rubber roofs!  While the roof where it sits is exposed use a level or straightedge to determine if the mounting platform has sagged.  If there are any low spots you will need to correct the structural defects before proceeding.  Then attach the new gasket to the bottom of the unit and lower the A/C back into place and reinstall the base plate on the inside to snug it down and secure it to the roof.  Plug in the wiring and reinstall the interior shroud.   Be sure to carefully inspect the roof and supporting structure and make any necessary repairs before reinstalling the A/C.

The use of caulk, silicone, or liquid sealers along with the A/C gasket is not recommended.  The gasket is designed to compress and form a tight seal.  Any added sealers may interfere with its normal function and sometimes may actually damage and destroy the integrity of the gasket.

A few RVs have a domed roof that helps keep water from accumulating under A/C units, but most have flat roofs.   If yours has a flat roof and water tends to puddle around the A/C you might be able to build up a little platform around the opening to help it shed water.  This would be easiest to do if you were removing and replacing the roofing but you might be able to do it without removing the roofing if you have good finish carpentery or cabinet making skills to make the shims necessary.  The shims should create a flat, level platform at that extends outside the roof opening far enough to support the entire A/C gasket.  Then you will need tapered shims from the flat platform extending a few inches to support the roofing.  Making and installing those tapered shims could be a bit of a challenge unless you have the right wood working skills.  The mitered corners will have to taper in two or even three dimensions!

Most roof A/Cs are designed to fit a standard 14 x 14 roof opening.  Make sure you know the size of the old gasket before purchasing a replacement gasket.  Standard gaskets sell for around $30 or less; premium gaskets can cost over $50.  However, given the high value of many RVs and the high cost of repairing water damage it may be a good idea to opt for the premium gasket if you have the budget for it and plan to keep the RV for any significant length of time, but I have seen standard gaskets work perfectly well for 20 years or more.    I had to replace the gasket on a very old unit that needed a gasket that was about 15"x 151/2" inside dimensions and with shipping it cost over $90!  NEVER attempt to replace or repair a leaking gasket using caulk or silicone sealer.  It might work for a little while but you can be sure it will fail a lot sooner than making a proper repair by replacing the gasket with the correct one.  The solvents in some sealing compounds could damage the gasket causing even more problems.

Prevention is always better than repair!   Many roof problems can be prevented by proper preventative measures.  Regular inspections for deteriorating caulk or damage can help you seal seams or repair holes BEFORE they start to leak.  Avoid loading heavy or sharp objects onto an RV roof and make sure you have sufficient clearance before driving under trees where low-hanging branches might damage the roof.  Be careful when walking on an RV roof and make sure there is no sharp debris caught in the tread on the soles of your shoes.  Standard seam caulking should be inspected frequently and typical maintenance schedules call for stripping it off and redoing it about once a year.  Some roof coatings, such as those supplied by Minnesota Roofing, may reduce the need for frequent caulking.  When inspecting the caulking be sure to examine all the seams (including those where the roof on some RVs wraps down over the side wall) and around all vents, antennas, etc, that project through the roof.

Dry up!

Chain Saws For Campers

Chain saws are essential for off-grid living and very useful for homeowners with lots of trees on their property.  Because of their size and their cost they aren't always adopted by RVers and campers.  Campers traditionally rely simple bow saws or foldable saws because they are small and inexpensive.  So-called cable saws are very small and easy to transport and pretty easy to use, but they can take a lot of time and effort to cut through larger pieces of wood.   Manual saws (like bow saws or buck saws) have a been a staple for campers for decades.  They are quiet and reliable but take up a lot of room and take a lot of effort to use.  But, with new, quiet, lightweight cordless chain saws that might be changing. Small, handheld cordless chain saws are available with blades up to 6" that might be handy for campers and RVers.

Chain saws are handy tools for cutting firewood for camping.  These days you can choose from gasoline powered, electric powered, and cordless models.   I even have an older 12-volt model that runs off a car battery.   A good chain saw with a sharp chain can make short work of cutting logs into firewood.  If you camp where you legally gather firewood a chain saw might be a useful addition to your camp kit or RV.

The most popular and most powerful chain saws are gasoline powered.  They normally have a 2-stroke engine that requires oil to be mixed with the gasoline.  Running unmixed gas in a 2-stroke engine will result in catastrophic engine failure as 2-strokes rely on the oil in the gasoline to lubricate the engine.   Be sure to use the prescribed ratio.  A mixture that is too rich (too much oil) will foul the spark plug and one that is too lean (too little oil) will cause excessive wear or even cause the engine to seize.  Every engine has a prescribed fuel:oil ratio.  The typical ratio for many chain saws is 50:1 (50 parts gasoline for 1 part oil).  You can calculate how much oil you  need to add to your gas can or use a device like a Ratio-rite that is calibrated to measure the amount of oil for several common ratios and common gas can sizes.  There are often special, richer "break in"ratios needed for new engines.  Running the standard ratio during break in may result in engine damage.  Running the break in ratio beyond the break in period can result in fouling spark plugs and excess smoke so be sure to use the break in ratio for the break in period and only the break in period.  Gasoline powered chain saws come in many sizes.  The larger sizes are quiet heavy.  All gasoline chain saws are noisy.  You will want to wear ear protection when using them, especially for extended periods of time.

Electrical chain saws are handy for small tasks like cutting firewood but you need a long extension cord of adequate gauge and a source of 120 VAC power.  Using too small a gauge extension cord can cause a number of problems, including reduced performance, shortening motor life, blown fuses or circuit breakers, and even overheating and melting the cord and possible fires.  Most RV generators and many portable generators provide more than adequate power to run an electric chain saw.  You may even be able run one on a portable inverter attached to a 12 volt battery.

Cordless chain saws are a fairly recent addition to the market.  Cordless chain saws are particularly convenient for RVers and campers.  They are generally lighter than gasoline saws, much quieter, and do not require cumbersome electrical cords or an immediate 120 V power source during operation.  You do need a 120 V power source to recharge the batteries but not during normal operation.  If you opt for a cordless chain saw you may want to purchase extra batteries so you always have enough charged batteries available to last until you can recharge them.  A solar powered battery charger may allow you to conveniently, quietly, and inexpensively recharge your batteries whenever you have sunlight.  Or just make sure to put the batteries on the charger and run your RV generator for a while after each use.  

The recent addition of small, one-handed, cordless chain saws gives RVers and campers even greater convenience and flexibility.  They usually aren't big or tough enough to cut logs, but can be useful for trimming firewood to fit your needs and are getting inexpensive enough and small enough to make it worthwhile for camping.  The one I bought included three 4"chains, 2 extra bars, 2 batteries and a charger, and even gloves and safety glasses, all in a convenient plastic case that will easily fit in just about any storage cabinet on an RV or camper.  It is not much bigger than a kids metal lunch box.  It was on sale at Christmas for under $50 on Amazon.com.  Regular prices start around $55.  Be sure to check the sizes.  For example some have 4" blades, some have 6" blades.  Finally got a chance to try mine out and was very pleased.  The 4" blade isn't going to handle big logs but it sure made trimming branches up to 2-4" or so fast and easy!  It doesn't have a chain oiler so I would be concerned about using it continuously for long periods without oiling it or letting the chain cool down.  It has quickly become my favorite yard trimming tool.

I have an older 12-volt chain saw that runs off a car battery that I carry in my RV but they are not easy to find these days.  Quite frankly, the one I have, which I bought at a garage sale many years ago, is the only one I've ever actually seen!  I did locate new ones online called a Minibrute that is similar to the one I have.  The only downside is you need to be fairly close to your vehicle (about 10-12') or drag a heavy 12-volt battery pack or portable generator with you to your work site.

Chain saws, like any power tool, require proper training for safe usage.   In fact, chain saws really need a lot more training than other common homeowner power tools.  To  use a chain saw on U.S. Forest Service lands you even have to pass a training and certification requirement.  Most, but not all, chain saw injuries are the result of user error and are preventable.    Here is a basic introductory training video.  In this video they will stress the importance of getting hands-on instruction from a qualified  instructor.  If you watch the video all the way through it should go into a second video that offers instruction on how to cut trees if you are interested in doing that.  You may even be required to be certified to operate a chain saw in many state and Federal forests if you plan to cut your own firewood for camping.

Modern chain saws include a chain brake.  It looks like second handle in front of the handle on the motor and is designed to stop the chain if your hand hits it (like it does if the saw hits something and bucks).  The brake is pushed toward the back of the saw to use the saw and brakes the chain when pushed forward.  If the saw bucks it kicks back toward you and your hand or wrist usually pushes the brake forward and activates it to stop the chain.  The brake often needs to be in the off position to start the saw.  Some older saws do not have chain brakes.  If for some reason you happen to have one of these older saws, be especially careful when operating it as the chain brake on modern units is a significant safety feature.  Never remove or disable any safety device!

Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) is essential for safe operation.  Minimum equipment would include sturdy work gloves and eye protection (safety goggles or face shield).  I like goggles with a fine mesh screen for cold weather use because they won't fog up.   Hard hats are suggested to protect your head from flying wood tossed by the saw if it jams or if you are trimming trees to prevent injury if a falling limb or piece of wood kicked up by the saw lands your head.  Hearing protection is also highly recommended, especially for gasoline powered models and particularly if you are going to be doing a lot of cutting.  Special chainsaw chaps are more than a good idea, they should be considered essential!  They are designed to stop the chain quickly to prevent serious injury to your legs.  Note that chaps will usually stop gasoline engines, but electric motors will continue to run as long as they have power and the switch is on, even if the chain is inhibited by the chaps.  Regular pants, even  Levis and sturdy off-road riding pants will not prevent chain saw injuries.  Not even our ultra-heavy firefighter turn-out pants will protect against a chainsaw and we are always required to wear chaps when using a chain saw in the fire service.

Ensuring your work area is safe and clear of people or hazards is critical.    The area should be free of branches or debris that would interfere with safe operation.  Be sure to check overhead as well as all around your work area.   One good way to ensure a clear area is to take a stick about the length of our chainsaw and swing it all around and over head.  If it doesn't hit anything, you should be clear.  If it does hit something you either need to clear the obstacle or find another place to do your cutting.  Even if there is nothing directly in the way of what you are cutting you need to make sure the area around you is clear.  If the saw jams and bucks it is likely to swing anywhere within reach, injuring or damagig anyone or anything it comes in contact with and possible bouncing back to injure you!  When cutting firewood you will want to have some kind of base beneath the log your are cutting.  You NEVER want to let the chain cut into the ground.  It will dull the saw almost instantly.  Chains are designed to cut wood, not dirt!

A sharp chain is essential to both ease of operation and safety.   A dull chain will make you work harder and is more likely to bind or kickback which often results in injuries.  If you see smoke coming from where you are cutting, you need to sharpen your chain!  If there are burned or scorched marks in the cut, you need to sharpen your chain!  Eventually a dull chain could even start a fire!  A dull chain also places more load on the motor accelerating wear and shortening usable life.

Gasoline powered chain saws are very noisy.   You should always wear ear protection when using them, especially if you are going to be using them for any length of time.  You also need to be aware of the impact the noise may have on fellow campers and restrict your usage to times of the day and locations  that will minimize any impact on other people.

Safe starting of gasoline chain saws.   First, make sure the area around you is safe, free from obstacles that might interfere and people who might be injured.  People should always be at least 10-15 feet away when you start the saw in case the chain catches on something and kicks back.  You may see loggers starting a chain saw using a drop method where they hold the handle of the starting rope and drop the saw to start it.  This it NOT an approved method.  Two safe ways to start a saw are to hold the back end of the saw securely between your knees while pulling the rope or to set the saw on the ground and put the toe of one boot into the handle beneath the trigger while yanking the rope.  No matter which method you use ALWAYS set the chain brake off before attempting to start the saw.  Most saws have a 2-step choke.  Typically you will push the choke all the way down and pull the rope until the engine pops, then move the choke to the center position and start the saw. Once it is running, open the choke fully.  Some saws (especially larger ones)  have a compression release button.  Pressing this button before attempting to start the saw is essential since high-compression engines will be too hard to turn over to start under full compression.

All chain saws need bar oil.  This is a special grade of oil designed to lubricate the chain.  Old time saws sometimes required you to squeeze the trigger frequently to squirt oil on the chains but modern saws do it automatically.  Fill the oil on the saw every time you fill the gas.  A "tank" of bar oil usually lasts through at least one tank of gas..  Most saws have a visual window where you can see how much oil is remaining so you can top off if necessary before you ruin a chain by running it dry!  Most oil tanks are designed to hold enough oil to last more than the fuel in the fuel tank so refilling the oil each time you fill the fuel should prevent you from running out of oil.  If you are using an electric, cordless, or 12 volt saw, be sure to keep an eye on the oil level or keep track of how much time you've been running the saw and how often you have to refill the oil so you can keep enough oil in the tank at all times.  Running a chain saw without oil is a sure recipe for disaster!  Lack of oil will cause the chain to overheat and to wear more quickly or possibly even bind up.  If you happen to run out of bar oil, in a pinch you might use 10-30 motor oil.  It won't perform as well as specially formulated bar oil and will probably splatter but it will provide some lubrication and reduce possible damage.  For the small, hand-held chain saws that don't have an oiler, dribble a little chain oil on the chain from time to time to prevent excess wear.

You can purchase chain saws at just about any home center, on Amazon.com, and places like Harbor Freight.  Like most power tools for home use they do not require any special licenses to buy them.  However, you should make sure you get proper instruction from an experienced chain saw user or qualified instructor before you try to use your new saw.  They are far more dangerous and require more training and skill for safe operation than typical homeowner power equipment like a cordless drill or circular saw.

Chain through!

Harbor Freight forTools and Supplies for RVers, OHVers, Campers and Boaters

I have mentioned Harbor Freight in a number of posts.  That is not because I receive any sponsorship or compensation from Harbor Freight, it is just because I have some experience with the products involved and have found them to be useful and cost effective and thought my readers might too.  They have lots of hand tools, power tools, garden tools, and other items that are useful to campers -- like tie downs, towing products, tarps, hardware, and even wheels and tires that fit some small tent trailers.  I became really familiar with their products when my wife worked as a rebuyer for their purchasing department.

You can find lots of Youtube videos about Harbor Freight tools.  They will include both positive and negative opinions.  Be sure to consider the background, qualifications, and bias of the reviewer together with both their intended use of the tools and your intended use.  You may need professional quality tools if you use them regularly on your job but less expensive options may be adequate for home or DIY use.

I have found Harbor Freight to be an excellent source for many tools for my RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping as well as for my mechanics and home maintenance tools.   You will sometimes see negative comments about the quality of tools from Harbor Freight.  While it is almost certain that high end name brands like SnapOn, Husky, and Craftsman will most likely last longer in professional use, I have pretty much found Harbor Freight tools to be more than adequate for my do it yourself projects.  The lower cost also allows me to purchase specialty tools that make jobs easier and sometimes allow me to do tasks that I could not otherwise do at all.  It also lets me afford duplicates to create convenient specialized tool kits for my motorcycle trailer, camp kit, RV, and boat.  Harbor Freight also offers a lifetime guarantee on just about all their hand tools.  In more than twenty years of buying and using their tools I have only had to utilize the guarantee a couple of times and both times they were very quick and friendly about replacing the damaged items, no questions asked.

Harbor Freight offers about the biggest selection of tarps I have seen anywhere.   They include light weight blue "poly" tarps, green farm tarps, more heavy duty silver tarps, and even real canvas tarps.  The selection and reasonable pricing always makes them my first stop when I need a tarp.  The normal prices are usually pretty good but keep an eye out for coupons and sales for even better savings.  Of course you an also find really light clear plastic painter's tarps too.

Another pretty complete category of useful items for RVers is the towing section.  You will find hitches, couplers, ball mounts, towing balls, lights, hitch pins, tie downs, safety chains, towing straps, anti-sway bars, tongue jacks, just about everything you need for towing trailers and even hitch-mount racks for carrying additional cargo and mounting winches.

Harbor Freight offers a variety of jacks and jack stands that can be useful, ranging from small bottle jacks to 10-ton floor jacks and tall farm jacks like the ones often used off-road by 4x4 users.

Harbor Freight has a large selection of hand tools -- wrenches, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, ratchets, hammers, clamps, and pry bars.  They also provide a lifetime warranty on almost all of their hand tools.  I have had to use the warranty a couple of times.  One time I twisted a socket completely off of a cross-bar lug wrench trying to remove a stuck lug not on a 3/4 ton off-road truck.  Another time I twisted a T-handle allen wrench until the flat sides were twisted from tip to  handle.  I was impressed with the strength of the plastic handle!  In both cases I was clearly exceeding the normal application but received replacements on the spot without any hassle.

The reviews of Harbor Freight power tools are mixed.  If you look for Harbor Freight on Youtube you will get a variety of videos listing the "10 Best" or "10 worst" Harbor Freight items.  Sometimes they may tell you what to buy or not to buy at Harbor Freight.  Remember, all of these videos are personal opinions of the people who made the videos and they may or may not have their own bias and they may or may not have any real qualifications for evaluating the products.  My own experience has been mostly positive.  I have found things like cordless drills and even cordless impact wrenches to be well worth the modest price.  Did they hold up as long as brand names like Dewalt?  No, not usually.  But the prices were significantly less and usually the performance was similar or at least adequate while they lasted for my DIY projects.  In general I have found most DIY reviews were pretty positive while many of the negative reviews were from professionals who normally use expensive, high-end tools and use them a lot.  An inexpensive cordless drill was a welcome addition to the tools in my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Harbor Freight offers a wide assortment of portable generators, ranging from small "tailgater" units to large ones that provide enough power to run your whole house in an emergency.   I have seen Youtube videos that both praise and criticize Harbor Freight generators.  Generally the ones from Harbor Freight will be considerably less expensive than well know name brands and may still be a good value even if they don't meet the same performance or longevity of the higher priced brands.  I have a 4500 watt unit I use frequently due to power outages in my rural area and in the two or three years I've had it, it has performed flawlessly.  It cost way less than half a "brand name"generator of the same size.

Harbor Freight is offering a line of winches that is an extraordinary value.   I have personally used a couple of their 2500 lb ATV winches and been very satisfied with them.  I have been eyeing the 12,000 lb Badlands winch for my 4WD truck.  At a regular retail price of $599 it is about 1/3 the cost of a similarly rated name brand winch and I have seen several very favorable reviews on Youtube from highly qualified professional users.  I have even noticed that a couple of popular off-road recovery teams uses the 12,000 lb Badlands winch.  I recently saw the 12,000 lb Badlands winch on sale for just $319!  And they have a hitch-mount rack specifically designed for it for just $75.  A similarly sized Warn brand winch typically retails for around $1800!

Harbor Freight has recently introduced some higher priced hand and power tools.  These might be of particular interest to professionals or those whose budgets can accommodate the higher prices.   Supposedly they will be closer in fit, finish, and quality to the high-end name brand tools but still less expensive.  When purchasing hand tools, especially things like pliers and wrenches and sockets, I look at the fit and finish and prefer those with precise edges and a smooth, shiny finish.  I have seen wrenches that looked like they had been cast in sand molds and avoid them!  Most of the hand tools that have failed me in the past would not have passed my current fit and finish selection criteria.  A lot of the wrenches and socket sets at Harbor Freight have a very nice fit and finish.

Harbor Freight often offers a variety of hardware you won't find any place else.  I find their "storehouse" offerings particularly appealing.  These are collections of small parts (nuts, bolts, fasteners, o-rings, nylon clamps, hitch pins, cotter keys, etc).  They usually come with their own plastic storage bins to organize them for ease of use.  A quick glance at my supply cabinet shows o-rings, hitch pins, cotter keys, metric nuts and bolts, SAE nuts and bolts, hose rings, hose clamps and cable clamps.  Having an assortment of commonly used hardware on hand has saved many projects and many trips to town!  They also usually have a good assortment of cable ties, ranging from tiny little ones handy for controlling phone charger cables to huge ones big enough to secure tents and sleeping bags.  On a related note, I figured out a way to keep the little plastic tubs in my dirt bike trailer nut and bolt storehouse from sliding out when traveling:  I cut some pieces of thin welding rod to match the height and width of the cabinet, then heated the ends and suck them into the plastic frames so they crossed in front of the drawers. It was a quick, cheap, and easy way to keep things from getting tossed all over the place towing the trailer to off-road locations.

Garden tools.  There are a surprising number of garden tools that might be useful for campers as well as for home use.  Axes, wedges, rakes, bow and pruning saws, and shovels are among the most appropriate camping choices as well as chain saws. Harbor Freight offers gasoline, electric, and cordless chain saws.  Bow saws and folding pruning saws are especially well suited for camping.   Folding saws are handy if you are hiking or backpacking.  Bow saws are a little stronger, cut faster, and are easier to use if you have a place to carry them,

Harbor Freight also has a wide assortment of gloves:  work gloves, garden gloves, welding gloves, mechanics gloves, latex gloves.  I rely almost exclusively on work and latex gloves from Harbor Freight for my home improvement, yard, RV, boat and car maintenance projects.  Their regular prices are usually very reasonable and they often have coupons that make them even more affordable.  I have noticed a dramatic increase recently in the cost of latex and nitrile gloves, thanks to COVID-19!

I have found  many uses for foam anti-fatigue mats which Harbor Freight has at a good price .  Be sure to watch for coupons for even greater savings, sometimes as low as $4.99 for 4-6 mats!  I have them in front of the workbench in my garage and in my motorcycle trailer.  I have also used them for a comfortable, anti-skid deck around and under my inflatable spa.  They can also be used to insulate the inside of boat cabins and are especially nice around the v-berth so you don't rub up against the cold fiberglass or metal hull in the middle of the night.  In addition to insulating the hull, the pads also reduce condensation inside the boat.

Harbor Freight stocks a good supply of safety items, such as goggles and face masks.   You will also find lot of other safety products, some you might not even have thought about before.  It can be educational just looking through the safety section.  I picked up some non-skid tape that has been useful on my RV, my motorcycle trailer, a utility trailer, and my sailboat as well as around the house.

Harbor Freight used to regularly offer coupons via print ads in many publications but has recently switched to online coupons.  Their coupons often provide substantial savings on their already low prices.  Use your favorite search engine to look for "Harbor Freight Coupons" to get the best prices on things you need.  Sometimes I peruse the coupons and take advantage of them to get items I might not even have an immediate need for if they are at a good price if I think I might have a use for them someday.  I like to be prepared.  They usually have a 20% off any item coupon that is especially useful when buying higher priced items at regular price.  Coupons are often a way to get customers into a store in hopes they will buy other things.  That being said, I have never had any negative experience buying coupon-only items at Harbor Freight.

They also offer an ''Insider's Club'' that gives additional discounts on selected items from time to time.  There is a modest annual fee to maintain your Club status but you usually recoup the cost quickly, especially if you purchase more expensive items where the Club savings on one purchase can often offset the annual fee.

Many Harbor Freight stores have side-walk sales from time to time.  These an be an especially good time to get excellent bargains.  Sometimes the inventory includes returned items offered at substantial savings.  When we lived in southern California we were even close enough to take advantage of the large side-walk sale at their warehouse in Camarillo, California.

In summary, I generally find Harbor Freight tools and hardware to be a good value.   As always, you should examine anything you are buying to make sure it meets your personal needs.  I would look to their higher-end offerings or maybe even defer to brand names for ongoing professional use but do-it-your-selfers may be able to expand your tool inventory at reasonable prices from their standard lines, allowing you to add many tools that would be way outside your budget if you bought professional brands and they will more than likely hold up well in occasional homeowner use.

Tool up!

Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature

Let's face it, we all like to be comfortable!

 If you have a climate controlled luxury yacht you can probably skip this post.   However, the rest of us might find some useful tips here for keeping our boat cabins a comfortable temperature.  The cabin temperature on smaller boats can be notoriously difficult to control.

It is often more difficult to maintain climate control on a boat than it is an RV.  Almost all RVs have some kind of furnace or heater for cold days and many have a roof A/C to keep it cool on hot days.  But boats, especially small boats like daysailers, have neither and, of course, open boats have none.   RVs usually have insulation and many small boat cabins have none.  Since boating is mostly a fair weather activity the lack of a heater usually isn't a problem but often keeping cool is.  Of course, heaters and A/Cs are not relevant on open boats, but controlling the climate inside any boat with a cabin can be an adventure in itself.  Climate control in open boats is pretty much an individual thing -- dress for (or stay out of) the weather.  However, you can add a bimini cover provide some shade against the summer sun for many boats and it might help keep the rain off.  If you need to keep warm, wear warmer clothes -- or head back to a warm clubhouse, tavern, cabin, or campfire on the shore.

Like any other inhabited area we would like our boat cabins to be a comfortable temperature.  Human beings are usually most comfortable when the air temperature is about 70-72F.  When it gets hotter we want a cooler environment; when it is colder we seek warmer places.  When it is hot outside we want our boat cabins to be cool.  When the weather is wet and cold we want a warm, dry place inside out of the cold, wind, and wet stuff.   Small boat cabins usually do a pretty good job of getting us out of the elements.  However, many times boat cabins are not well insulated making them more susceptible to outside temperatures.  Having the hull sit in the water often means a large part of the boat functions as a heat sink to absorb heat from inside the boat and makes it hard to keep it warm inside.  Uninsulated hulls transfer heat to the water quite efficiently.  On hot days that can be a real boon, but on colder days it means it is going to take more heat to keep the cabin warm than it would to maintain the temperature in an RV or a room of similar size.  Rubbing up or leaning against a cold fiberglass or metal hull in bed can really ruin your rest period!  Since boating is usually a mostly fair weather sport the most common temperature problem on boats is the cabins are usually too warm , so cooling a boat cabin is often more of a priority than heating.  However, an uninsulated hull can still be very uncomfortable to the touch, even on warm days. Rolling over against one on cold nights can be really chilling!

Because weight is almost always a significant factor for boats, they often lack any kind of insulation.  Many times you can add some insulation if you have direct access to the inside of the hull as you do any many small boats. Foam anti-fatigue mats are an easy way to insulate boat walls.  They are fairly light weight, easy to cut to shape, are flexible to fit curved surfaces, and can be simply secured with basic adhesives.  Dark gray or black are standard colors but you can also buy brightly colored tiles that might be more attractive.  They can be glued directly to the fiberglass or metal hull liner in many boats.  Applying them below the water line will be especially helpful in preventing heat loss through the hull to the water.  Having them above the water line will help keep unwanted heat out and desirable heat in.  Installed on the walls of the V-berth they give you a padded, insulated surface next to your bed, making it far more comfortable than pressing up against a cold (or hot!) uninsulated hull wall!  Using them on the floor also has anti-slip benefits.  Adding insulation can also reduce condensation on the inside of the hull and the foam pad is softer than the hull if you bump into it.  Make sure whatever you add doesn't significantly increase the displacement.  A few pounds won't affect most boats large enough to include any kind of enclosed cabin, but consider that even light weight insulation may add up more quickly than you expect if you are applying it to large spaces.  If the weight of your boat and normal gear and supplies is already close to its maximum safe displacement, be careful adding extra weight!  The cabins on some boats have an upholstered ceiling that helps minimize heat transfer in and out.  I have seen folks remove it for cosmetic purposes usually when it gets old and stained, but doing so ultimately allows more heat into the cabin in hot weather and more heat loss when it's cold.  If your boat lacks any kind of ceiling covering you might add some to make controlling the inside temperature a little easier.

A wind scoop can often be used with a ceiling hatch on just about any boat to capture any available breeze and direct it down into the cabin for ventilation and cooling.  There are even models that are omni-directional so they will work no matter which direction the wind is coming from.   When your boat is in motion there is usually enough apparent wind coming from the bow for a front-facing scoop to work well, but when moored or anchored you may have to adjust the scoop as the wind changes direction.  Remember to leave another hatch or window open so the incoming air has somewhere to go!  Otherwise you simply pressurize the cabin and you won't get any air movement inside.  Wind scoops work pretty well when the boat is in motion but unless you monitor them and realign them with the wind as necessary while anchored they will only work when facing the wind -- unless you have the omni-directional style which is generally more expensive and sometimes a little bulkier.

Sometimes you can keep a cabin cooler by protecting it from the sun with some kind of canopy or awning.   A simple tarp suspended over the cabin to shade the cabin and provide a shaded air buffer to keep it out of direct sunlight will help keep things cooler inside.  Simply draping a tarp over the cabin might help a little but may also conduct heat if it touches the cabin surface so having it a few inches away from the surface is better.  Using a reflective silver or white tarp will keep things cooler than using a dark blue or green tarp.  You can usually set up a "boom tent" on sailboats fairly easily using the boom when the mainsail isn't raised.  A boom tent can cool the cockpit as well as the cabin but is really only practical at anchor.  A more permanent cover called a "bimini" can be adapted to provide shade on many boats.  They are more practical on power boats because they get in the way of  the very necessary task of watching the sails on a sailboat.  Some creative owners have made biminis with clear panels so they get rain protection but can still see the sails.

Portals (windows) on boats are usually much smaller than windows on RVs and campers but they can still let in a lot of unwanted sunlight and heat on hot days.  If you find you are getting unwanted heat through windows, cover them with reflective film or even total blackout film or hang curtains over them to block the sunlight.  You might be surprised how much cooler your cabin will be on hot sunny days when you limit sunlight intrusion!  Of course, smaller openings also don't work as well to help cool things when needed.

On larger boats, you may have the option of installing an air conditioner to cool things down on hot days.  Air conditioners are generally too heavy and too bulky to be used on smaller boats plus you need a 120 volt generator or a solar system together with a large and heavy battery bank to power them.  I have seen examples of DIY boat A/C using residential window mount room air conditioners but I am not sure they will stand up to the rigors of a marine environment.  I also worry about the stress the weight and leverage of typical window air conditioners would put on cabin bulkheads that were not designed for that kind of loading and about the effects of humidity in a marine environment on the electrical components.  The weight of an air conditioner is of more concern on smaller boats where the added weight  will be more noticeable and affect displacement and handling more than it would on a  larger yacht.

Evaporative coolers sometimes used on RVs (and land-based structures) aren't going to work well on boats.   Evaporative cooler depend on rapid evaporation of water so they work best in dry climates.  They work very well on RVs used for desert camping but since boats are sitting in the water the humidity level in the air is usually pretty high and evaporative coolers only work well in low humidity.  Evaporative coolers only really work at a humidity of 50% or lower and work best below 25%.  Very unlikely to find humidity that low on a lake, river, or ocean.

Cooling fans.  Fans don't really cool, but by moving air they make you feel cooler by evaporating perspiration faster and carrying heat away from your body.  Sometimes fans can be used to remove hot air or bring in cooler air to make the interior more comfortable too.  Portable 12-volt and even self contained battery powered fans can be use in even the smallest of cabins to create a little air movement that can make a big difference in comfort.  Heck, even fanning your face with a hand fan or even a paper plate can help!  You can enhance the cooling affect of fans by spritzing your skin with water from a spray bottle.  However, any kind of evaporative cooling will be limited by the high humidity in most marine environments.  Spraying yourself with cool water when the humidity is already 90 or 100% may help cool you a little but you won't get the same evaporative cooling you would get at lower humidity.  Sprays or mist systems generally work well in desert climates but not so well near bodies of water or other places with high humidity.  Even so, the cool spray itself can feel pretty good.

Many smaller boat cabins lack any kind of heater.   Since boating is often a fair weather activity and weight is a serious factor for boats, it makes sense to leave off heavy fuel tanks and furnaces.  The human body generates about as much heat as a 100 watt bulb so just being in a small enclosed space (like the cabin on a daysailer) will usually result in the space warming up fairly quickly, especially if you have more people.  My wife and I usually find just the two us us keep the cabin of our Macgregor 25 sailboat comfortable on cool nights without any auxiliary heat.  I am sure we would need more heat if outside temperatures dropped near or below freezing.  I once had to open doors and windows of our home during winter temperatures in the teens in Utah when I had 20 or so people in my living room even with no heat on!  Cooking inside your boat will warm things up but you should never use a cooking stove just for heating and you must always provide sufficient ventilation.  Often the heat from cooking an evening meal together with body heat is sufficient if your boat isn't drafty.  If you regularly need yet more heat you should obtain an auxiliary heater that is approved for maritime applications.  If you have 120 volt power an electrical heater is an easy and usually cost effective way of warming things up.  Lacking electricity you will have to consider some kind of  marine rated fuel powered heater.  Alcohol is often recommended for marine applications because the liquid fuel does not explode and the fumes aren't heavier than air and won't accumulate in the bilge.  Propane heaters that use self-sealing disposable fuel cylinders might be an option but you will need to store extra cylinders somewhere outside the cabin.   See Safety Tips for Small Propane Bottles from Practical Sailor for more information.

Automotive heaters that run off engine coolant can assist in warming up an RV.  I even had one RV that used engine heat to pre-warm the hot water heater while driving.  However, since most boat motors use water from the outside for cooling, automotive type heaters that run off hot water from the cooling system are not practical for use on boats.  The coolant generally doesn't get hot enough to be very effective and the plumbing to support it would be overly complicated and add unwanted and unnecessary weight on a boat.

Hatches and portals should be appropriately positioned open or closed to help you maintain the desired cabin temperature.  On hot days you will want to keep things fairly open to allow ventilation to help with cooling.  On cold days you will usually want to keep things closed ("batten down the hatches") unless you are using some kind of heater or lights (lanterns) inside that could put off toxic fumes and consume oxygen, in which case it is essential to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open things link the companionway slide will allow a LOT of heat to escape, partially because of the large opening but also because of the location at the top of the cabin (remember:  heat rises!).

Since boating is usually a fair-weather activity, cooling is usually the most common problem to be solved.  Some days may start out cool, then get warmer as time passes.  Dressing in layers so you can strip down to a comfortable level as things warm up is a good practice.  You can also use spray bottle to create a mist to help cool your body.   As mentioned above, a wind scoop can often provide much needed air flow for cabin cooling.  The physical activity often required by a sailboat often helps keep sailors warm.  Sometimes engine heat from inboard motors will also provide additional comfort on power boats.  If you need more heat be sure to get a heater that is designed for indoor marine use.  Catalytic propane heaters used in cabins and campers might work, but be sure to maintain adequate ventilation and store the propane cylinders out in the cockpit or on the deck.

Stay warm and keep your cool!