Boating Safety

Boating safety includes proper operation, obeying rules and regulations, and having the right safety equipment on board and knowing how to use it.   The first two are things YOU have to do is to learn how to and be willing and able to correctly perform all necessary tasks before operating a boat yourself.  The right safety equipment is specified by USCG regulations and boats operated in regulated waters MUST carry the required safety equipment.  Boats operated on non-regulated waters, usually small lakes and rivers, SHOULD carry the same safety equipment and local laws may require it.  Not having the prescribed safety equipment could subject you to significant fines if your boat gets inspected by law enforcement and costly liabilities if you are involved in an accident and didn't have the required, up to date safety items on board at the time.  Of course, just having the right equipment isn't enough -- you (and everyone on your boat) needs to know where it is located,  how to get it out and how to use it.  When you have guests, take a little time to go over safety procedures and make sure they know where their individual life vests are and where all safety equipment is located and how to use it.

Learning proper operation of your boat usually involves more than a few minutes of instruction by the dealer or person you purchase (or rent) your boat from.  Ideally you should have hands-on training by a qualified instructor.  In some cases, such as piloting commercial boats, you must have a Captain's License that has minimum training and testing requirements.  If your boat is for personal use you won't need the License, but you should still ensure you are qualified to operate your boat before you take it out on the water without a more experienced skipper on board.  The training you need will depend on what type of boat you are in.  Personal boats, such as canoes, kayaks, and row boats are pretty simple but you still need to know how to use them safely.  That would include how to launch them, how to load them, how for you and any passengers to sit safely, and how to paddle them, steer them, stop them and dock them.  Motor boats will require additional instruction on how to operate the controls along with guidance on choosing a safe speed and other operational considerations, depending on where you are.  Sail boats will require you to know points of sail and how to raise, lower, and adjust and trim the sails.  Many sailboats also have auxiliary power which you will also need to know how to use.  Operating any boat without proper training is a recipe for disaster, for you and anyone around you!  For personal use you may be able to get training from a friend or associate who is an experienced, competent boater.  If you are renting a boat, pay close attention to the instructions you receive from the rental office.  Take time to clearly understand what they tell you and then comply carefully.  Make sure you are understand and are comfortable with all the aspects of operating a boat before you attempt to do so on you own.  Waves are almost a constant feature you need to know how to handle.  In general it is best to cross waves about 45 degrees to their shape.  Hitting one straight on can cause violent pitching and the rudder and propeller may be lifted out of the water leaving you with no control.  Letting one strike the side of your boat will cause it to roll side to side and if the wave is big enough may make you capsize.  The same applies to the wake kicked up by other boats.  Low waves and small wakes are not usually of any concern, but as the grow bigger they can wreak havoc.  I was once towing a water skier when a harbor tour boat came by kicking up a 2'  wake.  My skier caught the tip of his ski in the wake and it flipped and spun him like a top!  I've heard of small boats capsized by the wake from larger boats and it is not unusual for that to happen.

Certain navigation and other lights are required on any boat used after dark.  Standard navigation lights include a red light visible from the port side, a green light visible from the starboard side, and white lights front and rear. You can remember which color goes with which side in a couple of ways.  Red is for the port side, just as port wine is red and both port and left have 4 letters.   In addition all boats need to display a white light visible all around when moored or at anchor outside a designated moorage at night.  Sailboats also have to display a white light visible from the front when using an auxiliary motor at night.  Lighting requirements might be different for different sized boats as well as different between power and sailboats.  Check to make sure your boat has all the required lights for its type and size.  Modern LED lights take a lot less power than the old incandescent lights.  This is particularly helpful for anchor lights or other lights that will be used while you are on battery only power.

Day shapes are used on sailboats to let other boaters know if the sailboat is under power or at anchor during daylight operation.  The use of day shapes on inland waters seems to be often neglected, which is a sad thing as it may contribute to unnecessary accidents or close calls.  A sailboat under power should display a black ball shape.  At anchor in daylight hours they should display a black, inverted cone shape.   There are other shapes such as diamonds and combinations of shapes used on commercial fishing vessels and vessels under tow but you seldom see them on personal boats.  The day shapes are always black because other colors can not always be distinguished if the sun is in your eyes.  Day shapes are required on vessels over 20m in length and recommended for all vessels and are typically displayed in the fore triangle (e.g., hung from the fore stay).   Day shapes are not commonly seen on inland waters but their use (or lack thereof) may still be a liability factor if there is an accident.

Rules and regulations will, to some extent, depend on where you are using your boat.  Regulated waters usually include all coastal waters and large, navigable lakes and rivers like the Great Lakes, the St Lawrence seaway, the Columbia River, and the Mississippi River.  The regulations governing these waters include federal laws and regulations put forth by the U.S. Coast Guard.  There are other local rules and regulations that govern recreational boating on lakes and rivers.  It is your responsibility to learn the laws, rules, and regulations pertaining to whatever venue you are operating in.  Failure to do so could result in serious accidents or expensive fines.  You will find speed limits and restricted areas posted near most boat docks, launch ramps, swimming areas, brides, and dams in both regulated and unregulated waters.  Obeying these rules is both your legal obligation and a matter of common courtesy and safety.

Safety equipment requirements are primarily based on US Coast Guard regulations.  In pretty much all cases you are required to have personal flotation devices (i.e, life vests) readily available and accessible to every person on a boat.  As boats get larger they are required to have additional throwable flotation devices (specially designed cushions or life preservers).  All boats are required to carry visible and audible signalling devices.  In regulated waters you are required to carry signal flares.  Boats operated after dark require navigation lights.  All boat having motors must carry at least one fire extinguisher.  Boats over 25' must carry at least 2 fire extinguishers.  All safety equipment should be up to date and easily accessible by the crew.  Everyone on board, especially crew members, should know what and where every piece of safety equipment is and how to use it.

Signal flares come in several forms.  There are hand held flares and flare guns.  Flare guns shot the flare high into the air so it can be seen from long distances.  Hand held flares can only be seen by people with a direct line of sight to where you are.  Hand held flares are probably adequate for use on inland lakes and rivers but I would want to have a flare gun if I were doing any off-shore, blue water voyaging.  Signal flares are not cheap and they come with an expiration date.  Some expired flares might still work, but do you want to bet your life on that?  I don't!  Expired flares do not meet USCG regulations so having expired flares might result in a stiff fine, not to mention they very well might fail when you need them most!

Having the required safety equipment on board is just the first step.  Obviously you must also know where to find it and how to use it!   Having all the required equipment tucked away in a storage locker might avoid fines but it isn't going to do yo much good if you need to use it.  Even simple items like life vests require a certain expertise to be worn correctly.  Putting one on wrong could cost you your life!  Throwable cushions are pretty simple to use but it is advisable that you practice throwing them so you will be able to get them where you need them if someone falls overboard and needs help.  Know how to ignite or shoot your flares.  You should not fire flare guns as practice, except in an official USCG designated flare practice area so you may have rely on learning the instructions and "dry firing" practice.  Any passing aircraft that sees a flare is obligated to report it which would launch a possibly expensive search operation. 

Audible signals (horns and whistles) have specific meanings you need to know.  They are generally divided into short and long blasts.  Short blast is 1 second.  A long blast is 4-6 seconds.  One short blast is used by boats approaching each other to signal they are passing on the port (left) side.  Two short  blasts mean passing on the starboard (right side).  By the way, the generally accepted practice is to pass port to port, just like driving on US highways.  Three short blasts means your engine is in reverse.  Five short blasts mean danger or I do not understand or agree with your signal.  You might use 5 blasts to warn an approaching boat that you have a swimmer in the water on the side he intends to pass on or if there is some danger such as rocks or debris  or another boat there.  Audible signals are also used in times of reduced visibility, such as fog or around blind turns.  One long blast means entering or exiting a blind turn, nearing an obstructed area, or leaving a dock or berth.  One long blast every two minutes is used by power boats operating in low or restricted visibility,  One long blast followed by two short blast  is used by boats under sail operating in low or restricted visibility.  Whey would power and sail boats use different signals for the same situation?  Well, sailboats may not be able to change course or speed as quickly as power boats.  Knowing a sailboat is approaching in limited visibility conditions lets you prepare to allow more time for evasive maneuvers if they are needed.  It may also help that you know you will not be able to listen for approaching engine noise and that the other boat could appear out of the fog without you ever hearing the sound of their engine.

EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons) are required on large boats (typically over 300 tons) but might be useful on smaller craft if you are sailing off-shore.  They send an SOS signal that includes your precise coordinates to assist rescuers in finding you.  They are somewhat large and expensive.  A Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) performs a similar function.  They are small enough to carry in your pocket (they are designed for hikers) and start at prices much less than EPIRBs.  Emergency beacons are probably not needed on inland waters but I wouldn't want to do any ocean voyaging without one.  You might want to have a PLB you can use both on land at and sea, for hiking, riding OHVs or horses, hiking, boating, etc.  Most PLBs are waterproof down to at least a couple of meters.

There are no laws or regulations I know of that specify proper clothing for boating,  other than perhaps laws regarding public nudity.   However, to be safe and comfortable you should dress appropriately when boating.  Avoid exceedingly loose clothing that might get caught on parts of the boat.  For both your own safety and to protect the deck of the boat, wear soft-soled shoes with a good grip.  "Real" boaters wear deck shoes when on the boat and do not wear them off the boat where they could pick up bits of debris that would damage the deck.  Slick or loose shoes may cause you to slip and fall, perhaps even fall overboard!  Wearing any shore worn shoes on your boat risks damaging the surface of your deck.  It is popular to wear swimsuits or shorts when boating but be aware you may be exposing your skin to excessive UV radiation which could lead to sunburn and eventually even to skin cancer.  You will get exposed to sunlight reflected off  the water as well as from directly overhead.  Wear sunblock on exposed skin.  A good broad-brimmed hat or at least one that shades our eyes will be helpful.  Your eyes will also need protection from both direct and reflected sunlight so a good pair of sunglasses is advised.  Most tasks on a power boat don't require gloves, but many tasks on a sailboat or any kind of paddle boat will require gloves to protect your hands from blisters, rope burns, and other injuries.

If your boat is on a trailer you will need to have safe towing skills and learn how to launch the boat.  To launch the boat back the trailer down the launch ramp until the boat is in the water.  If you can't get it far enough down the ramp before the water is high enough to get the brakes on your tow vehicle wet you might need a hitch or tongue extension to give you further reach.  Boat trailer guides are really useful when backing the empty trailer into the water to retrieve the boat and they also make it easier to align the boat to the trailer.  When towing a boat, always make sure the boat is securely attached to the trailer and that the trailer hitch, safety chains, wiring, lights, and brakes are working properly.  When towing you usually need to travel slower than you do without a trailer and give yourself more room for turning and stopping.  Trailers can also be affected by wind or gusts from passing trucks and buses.

You will need to know how to safely move your boat out of its slip and how to dock it again when you return.  There are many Youtube videos that can teach you useful techniques.  In general you need to make sure you have untied all dock lines and made sure the lane you are entering is clear of other boats.  When returning, approach the slip/dock slowly, have your boat hook ready to help guide you into the slip, and have your docking lines ready to secure the boat once you are in place.  There are techniques that use spring lines to help position the boat and stop it when docking, but not all boats have spring lines.  Speed in any marina or anchorage is always limited.  You usually only need to run the motor at idle when docking.  Boat trailer guide posts are useful for positioning your trailer and aligning the boat to the trailer.

Once you are out on the water you need to maintain situational awareness.  That means you need to be constantly looking around you, watching for other boats, swimmers, obstacles, or even disturbances on the water that might indicate a problem.  Also keep an eye on the sky for changes in weather.  Adjust your behavior depending on what you see around you.  Watch your speed.  There aren't a lot of speed limits on the open water, but there are definitely speed limits near marinas, boat ramps, swimming areas, bridges, dams, and other points of interest.  You should also slow down whenever there are other boats near by, to give yourself time to react if one of them suddenly darts into your path.  In general power boats are expected to yield the right of way to sailboats but if you are in a sailboat, don't count on it!  If you are in a power boat, do your best to comply.  Boats should pass each other "port to port" (i.e., left side to left side).  Think of it like two cars going opposite directions on the highway.  By the way, you can remember that "port"is the left side because both words have 4 letters.  You can also remember the port light is red, just as port wine is red.  The right side of a boat is called "starboard".  The port side is so named because that was the side boats usually docked on in port.  Starboard is thought to have come from "steerboard" at a time before boats had rudders and were steered by a board usually from the right hand side as the one steering the boat faced forward, probably because most people are right handed.

Two special situations to consider when boating:  cooking and sleeping.  Cooking on a boat can be difficult, especially if you are underway or anchored where there is significant movement.  You will always need to ensure adequate ventilation to eliminate fumes from cooking and from burnt fuel AND to make sure YOU have enough oxygen to breathe.  Even if your stove doesn't put off toxic fumes it will consume oxygen.  You will also need to take care to make sure pots and pans don't slide off the stove if the boat is rocked.  Use pot restraints or hold onto the handle to prevent accidental spills if you are hit by an unexpected wave or wake.  Sleeping on a boat is usually pretty safe, but you may be sleeping in the V-berth.  The mattress at you shoulder could be as wide as a queen size bed while the foot may be as small as 9"!  In smaller boats you will have limited head room so you may need to exercise caution when attempting to sit up.  The rocking of the boat may cause problems for some people.  If you find yourself getting nauseous you may need to take some Dramamine to counteract the affects of sea-sickness, especially when you are trying to sleep.  You will want to ensure you have adequate ventilation so leaving a hatch slightly open is often a good idea, even if it is cold outside.  If you have any kind of heater that burns fuel adequate ventilation is an absolute must since combustion consumes oxygen.  Of course you will want to make sure your boat is securely anchored or tied to a dock or mooring before you retire for the night.  Any boat with overnight facilities should include sanitation.  Be sure you know how to locate and how properly use the available facilities.  Mis-use can result in unpleasant and unsanitary conditions on the boat and sometimes in the water around it.

Passenger safety should be one of your primary concerns.  Perhaps your first option is to make sure your passengers are capable of following safety protocols and looking after themselves.   During one of our sailboat outings we witnessed a power boat accident in which an elderly lady fell overboard.  They got her out of the water quickly but she apparently had a heart attack and even CPR by the local fire department medics couldn't save her.  Ironically, she didn't like going out on a boat in the first place and her family had talked her into it.  Always show passengers where all the safety equipment is located and how and when to use it.  Make sure children and other possible at risk passengers ALWAYS wear their live jackets.  Avoid carrying passengers who are intoxicated or under the influence of drugs, even prescription drugs if the drug affects their senses and/or reaction time.  Try to keep an eye on your passengers and advise them if/when they are doing anything that might put them or anyone else at risk.  If all else fails and your passengers do not cooperate, head back and park the boat and ask them to disembark.  Going back and/or asking people to leave may dampen spirits but not as badly as someone getting hurt!

Be safe and have fun!

Additional OHV Body Armor

OK, you've got your helmet and googles, riding boots, gloves, and good riding pants and jerseys.  What more could you need?

Well, there are several more pieces of body armor available to provide additional protection for when you and your ride part company.  Let's face it:  anytime there is a contest between your soft body parts and hard rocks, pavement, or even grass, dirt or sand, your body parts are going to come in second place, and that is NOT a good place to be in that situation!  I had friend who liked to remind me that second place was first loser!  Even landing on soft sand or grass can deliver nasty bruises, friction burns, and abrasions. 

Kidney belt would be next my on my list.  This is an elastic band about 8" wide you wrap around your midsection.  As indicated my its name, it covers your kidneys.  Kidney belts usually have some reinforced bands to give extra protection to your body and your organs but they also provide extra back support that helps you maintain a good riding posture and minimizes muscle fatigue that leads to an aching back.  It even helps hold your tummy a little flatter.  Once you've worn a kidney belt you will greatly appreciate the extra support it gives and will feel somewhat undressed and vulnerable without one.    Kidney belts also have the advantage of holding and supporting your abdomen.  The heavy material along with the stiffeners provides a lot more support and protection than a shirt or jersey.  I know riders who wear a chiropractic back brace under their jersey in lieu of a kidney belt.  It provides the same basic support but usually lacks the extra protection of the stiffeners in motorcycle kidney belts.  The extra support of either a back brace or kidney belt helps keep your organs from bouncing around on bumpy trails and minimizes spinal movement for greater comfort and less fatigue.

                                           

Then I would go for a chest protector.  Chest protectors are made of sturdy plastic and basically surround your rib cage.  It might better be called a torso protector because it protects your back as well as your chest.  Some early models, often called Rock Jackets, pretty much ended there but modern versions usually include shoulder pads that cap your shoulders and pieces that even guard your collar bones  Some riders prefer the rock jacket style because the extra collar bone and shoulder protection sometimes gets in the way of turning your head in a full face helmet, but I have found the slight inconvenience well worth the extra protection.  That might be because my full face helmet once judo chopped and broke my collar bone in an accident when I was wearing a rock jacket style chest protector.  Chest protectors are well ventilated so there usually isn't very much of a heat penalty to pay when wearing them.   They might even provide some shade against direct sunlight.  I added a D-ring near the bottom of one side where I can attach a fireman's glove strap to keep track of my gloves when I stop along the trail.  I also add a piece of velcro to the center and a matching piece to the bite valve on my Camelbak hydration pack so I can attach the bite valve where it easy to reach when needed and doesn't easily get snagged on bushes out on the trail.

                                               

Hip pads are usually part of your riding pants.  Just remember to put them in each time you put on your pants.  They are not bulky nor made of hard plastic, but the added padding goes a long way to cushioning your hip bones against hard obstacles.  Many riding pants also have extra protection in the form of plastic logos or other designs near your hips that serve to absorb and deflect sharp impacts.

Knee pads are, in my mind, almost mandatory.   When riding an ATV or dirt bike your knees are often exposed to brush and your knees are very often the first part of your body to contact the ground in a get off, meaning you strike them at maximum velocity.  Standard, simple knee pads are either strapped to your lower legs or tucked into pockets below the knees of your riding pants.  They include a cup that covers you knee cap and a shin guard that extend down your leg into your riding boots.  For even better protection go for professional knee braces.  While they can be quite expensive, the extra protection they provide is well worth it.  If you have had any previous knee injuries or weakness in your knees you should seriously consider getting knee braces.  The are somewhat bulky but you get used to it.  They not only cover you knees put also protect against over-extension and sideways displacement.  Did you know it only takes about 12 lbs of pressure on the side of your knee to dislocate it?  Compare that to the strength of your tibia (lower leg bone), which can typically withstand almost 2000 lbs downward force before snapping!  Knee braces can help prevent sideways displacements and over-extension, saving you from a very extensive and painful injury.  Knee pads are shown on the left, knee braces on the right

                                                                 

Elbow pads aren't as often seen on off road riders but I have found them to be very valuable.  Your elbows, like your knees, tend to be among the first body parts to strike the ground during an accident.  You know how it hurts when you bump your elbow!  Like knee guards, elbow guards extend below the joint providing protection for your forearm as well.  Coupled with the shoulder pads on a comprehensive chest protector, your arms are nearly covered completely, which can save you a lot of scrapes and abrasions and a lot of pain and spilled blood.  Some riders find them too warm on hot days, but I have always felt the extra protection was well worth the slight discomfort.  A friend of mine who was a seasoned desert racer, used to joke that if you went over the handle bars you should wave your hands in front of you to clear the debris away from your landing spot.  Wearing elbow pads will do a lot better job of protecting your forearms and elbows from injury.

                                                  

All in one body armor is available that combines kidney belt, elbow pads, and chest protector with a riding jersey so you can put it all on at once.  It may make getting dressed and undressed a little easier but I prefer the added protection of individual pieces of armor.  Slip on armor usually doesn't include the shoulder and collar bone guards found on state-of-the-art chest protectors, but it does cover chest, spine, kidneys, elbows and shoulders.

                                                  

Bandanas aren't exactly body armor, but they are a good thing to include in your riding outfit.  They do protect your neck from and wind burn.  I roll mine up, soak it with water, and tie it around my neck.  That does two very valuable things:  it protects my neck between my jersey and helmet from sunburn and it helps keep my cool as the water evaporates.  There are some major blood vessels fairly close to the skin in your neck and the wet bandana helps cool your blood going to and from your head, which helps keep your whole body more comfortable in hot weather.   Bandanas can have other uses too.  You can wear them bandit-style over your face to protect your nose and mouth from dust when riding exceedingly dusty trails or caught in a dust storm or to keep your face warmer when it turns cold.  They can also be used for emergency slings and bandages so it is handy to have one conveniently tied around your neck if you or one of your riding buddies needs it. 

Here's an odd suggestion for macho dirt bikers:  wear panty hose!  They provide a smooth, slick layer between your skin and your riding pants and work really well to prevent the dreaded "monkey butt" that often comes from straddling a saddle for hours of off road activity.  Interestingly enough, they also help keep you warmer in cool weather but aren't noticeably hotter in warm weather.  You can buy special underwear to prevent "monkey butt", but panty hose are a lot less expensive and get the job done.  They also help protect your feet against blister in your riding boots.

One more item you might see are neck braces.  They are basically padded devices that fit around your neck between your helmet and your shoulders.  They are intended to help support your head and protect your neck from injuries while riding.  However, many riders avoid them because, like chest protectors (only more so) they restrict head movement needed to maintain a good eye on your environment for safety.

                                                                   

    

Some riders  avoid various pieces of body armor because they add weight and sometimes increase heat.  However, I have found the added protection more than worth the added weight and any added heat.

In summary, you will find wearing full body armor will help you avoid a lot of injuries and is usually far more comfortable than ordinary boots, shirts, and jeans.  Yes, you will have to put out a little investment, but I am sure you will find it is more than worth whatever it costs.  It is also more than worth any discomfort from added weight or unwanted warmth.  Besides that it looks cool!

Armor up!

Jackets and Coats for OHV Riders

Since a lot of OHV riding is a summertime activity, coats and jackets are not always needed and are often overlooked.  However, if you plan to ride earlier in the spring or later in the fall or especially in the winter, you are going to need warmer riding gear.  And you might need at least a light jacket if you get caught in a summer storm during an outing. I have a compact nylon jacket that folds into its own pocket  and a plastic rain poncho that I tuck into the tool bag on my off road motorcycle in case I get caught in a sudden rain.  On cooler days I wear an Enduro jacket.

Riding coats and jackets aren't as essential a part of body armor as helmets, goggles, boots, and gloves, but when the weather turns wet and/or cold you are definitely going to want more protection!  Being cold and wet is not only uncomfortable, it can be dangerous.  You loose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothing and can easily become hypothermic even in mild temperatures, especially when you factor in the wind-chill factor of riding an OHV.

A good pair of long johns under your riding pants and jersey is a good first step for really cold days.  Just make sure you have enough room for them inside your riding clothes so they don't bind or limit your movement.  You definitely don't want them to chafe!  And you don't want to wear them if  the day is going to warm up.  Dress in layers you can remove, rather than ones you can't!

Another trick is to wear women's panty hose under your riding pants.   A famous football quarterback used to wear them under his football uniform on cold days to keep warmer.  Another benefit that even works in hot weather is they provide a slick buffer between your skin and your riding pants, preventing the dreaded "monkey butt" that often results from straddling a dirt bike or ATV saddle on vigorous rides.  And, while they can keep you warmer in cool weather, they aren't really that much hotter in warm weather.  There are special undergarments designed to prevent monkey butt, but they are a bulkier and lot more expensive than panty hose.

Windchill jerseys are designed for use in cooler weather.  They are kind of like a sweatshirt for off road riding, giving you added warmth and protection from the wind without restricting movement and while maintaining adequate ventilation to prevent over heating.  They usually aren't too warm if the day warms up either.

In colder weather you may need a special riding jacket or coat.  The most popular style for off road use is called an Enduro Jacket.  They are usually made of strong Gore-tex nylon that provides excellent wind and rain resistance and a fair amount of relief from abrasion should you go down.  They are available in a variety of styles and colors. Some have removable liners that make them versatile for both cooler and colder days.  Most are at least water resistant if not waterproof.   They are good option when you know you will be riding in cool or cold weather.  I carry a little nylon jacket that folds into a pocket on its chest to use if I get caught out in an unexpected rain out on the trail.  Any nylon or Gore-Text jacket could be treated with a waterproofing spray like Camp-Dry for additional rain protection.  Enduro jackets usually have several nice-sized pocket where you can carry extra items such as GPSs, phones, maps, lens cleaning clothes, and chemical hand warmers

                               

Leather riding jackets are popular among street bikers.  However, they are usually too heavy and too stiff for most off road riding.  There are some heavy duty nylon winter street bike coats you might be able to use off road.  I have one I used for a while.  One of the things that made it work for me off road was it was about 1 or 2 sizes bigger than I usually wear, giving me enough room for normal riding gear underneath and still having good flexibility and freedom of movement.  It was a good option for really cold days, but for most days I preferred using my Enduro jacket which fit better, was more flexible and more comfortable and with the right layers underneath was perfect.

Of course another standard trick for cold weather activities is to dress in layers.   Having multiple layers keeps your body heat in but also allows you to remove layers when things warm up to you don''t get overheated.  Interestingly enough, getting over heated can also lead to hypothermia as your excess sweat cools you down faster than your body generates heat.  When dressing in layers pay attention to which layers you can remove out on the trail and how you will pack them for transport back to camp.  Using thermal underwear is a good way to stay warm but you usually won't be able to remove it out on the trail if things warm up.  Extra jackets or rain pants over your normal riding gear can be easily removed and tucked away in a back pack when the day gets too warm for them.

One last word of caution:  don't dress TOO warm!  Over-dressing will result in you getting too warm during your activities which in addition to being uncomfortable and perhaps generating unpleasant body odors can cause you to sweat enough to actually make you colder, cold enough to put you at risk for hypothermia.  If you are going to doing any kind of  vigorous activity, even riding a dirt bike or ATV, you should feel just a little bit cool (not cold) standing around before you start out.  If you are comfortable standing around you are probably going to be too warm soon after you start riding.

Stay warm!

OHV Riding Pants and Jerseys

Riding pants and jerseys provide reasonably comfortable protection for your limbs and torso when operating an off highway vehicle.  You will see people wearing less specific items like jeans and t-shirts but they are unnecessarily risking injuries that can come from just riding, let alone from accidents.  I didn't have real riding gear for my first few outings and I quickly learned the limitations of jeans and casual shirts.  Jeans and other work pants are not designed for you to straddle the seat of a motorcycle.  You will quickly discover they get tight in very uncomfortable places and lack the flexibility you need for comfort and proper movement on the bike.  Short sleeved shirts will expose your arms to sunburn, windburn, and scratching by brushes or branches along the trail.  Sweatshirts get too warm after only a few minutes of riding on even cool days.

Riding pants are sometimes called "leathers".  That is because the riding pants originally worn by old time motorcycle riders were usually made of leather to provide warmth in cold weather and wind and protection against abrasions when they parted company with their machines.  These days they are usually made of sturdy nylon like Gore-tex, augmented by plastic or silicone protective patches that often mascarade as logos or design elements.  Riding pants are usually equipped with soft hip pads that fasten to Velcro tabs on each hip.  The the better ones include pockets in the lower leg for knee pads that also cover the knee caps and shins.

                                                        

Riding pants should fit comfortably and not bind when you are sitting, standing, or walking.  Some have adjustable waists.  Make sure they fit snugly around your waist.  You don't want them loose enough to slip down while walking or riding!

Riding pants are usually made of a sturdy nylon that provides quite a bit of water resistance.  If you often get caught riding in the rain and your riding pants don't keep you dry, wear some rain pants over them.  You might also get extra protection by spraying your riding pants with Camp Dry.

A lot of riders simply wear jeans or sturdy work pants instead of riding pants.   True, it may be cheaper to wear available pants but they won't provide the level of comfort or proper protection of real riding pants.  Even tough "fire hose" work pants won't give you the protection and comfort of good riding pants.  The plastic logos are often strategically designed and placed to provide extra padding and skid protection.   Riding pants are also designed to accommodate knee and hip pads that provide a lot of extra protection when you  part company with your ride.  If cost is keeping you from buying real riding pants you can usually find pretty good prices on used gear on ebay or craigslist.  Because almost no one gets to ride as often as they would like you will often find riding gear in pretty good condition.

Riding "shirts"are called jerseys.  They are usually made of a fairly light and breathable but sturdy material so they can provide some protection against dirt and sand kicked up at trail speeds.  They need to fit comfortably and allow full freedom of movement of your arms.  Some jerseys have built in soft elbow pads to give a little extra protection but strap-on, hard elbow pads will give better protection.  Most jerseys are pretty comfortable in both warm and cool weather.  For cold weather riding, choose "Wind Chill" jerseys, designed to help keep you warmer in cooler weather.

                          

You will definitely see guys riding wearing a variety of tops -- t-shirts and even tank tops in hot weather and sweat shirts when it is cooler.  However, once again, these garments do not provide the comfort, flexibility of movement, nor the protection of a proper riding jersey.  Exposed arms and other skin will quickly suffer from sun and wind along with the impact of wind-blown debris out on the trail.  Short term pain and maybe even bleeding or infection is likely along with the long term sun exposure increasing the chances of getting skin cancer.  I know more than one desert racer who developed melanoma from over exposure to the sun.

Riding pants and jerseys were at one time frequently color coordinated to the rider's machine.  While the practice is still fairly common and is a good way to show your support for your favorite brand of equipment, more colorful options have become popular, very likely fueled by the exotic color schemes adopted by Supercross riders over the years.  It isn't unusual to find very macho riders even wearing a combination of pink and chartreuse regardless of the factory colors of their bikes.

Once again, you might get away with wearing jeans and a t-shirt or sweatshirt for a while, but real riding pants and jerseys will definitely be more comfortable and safer.  And it looks way cooler!

Dress right!

OHV Riding Gloves

Gloves are kind of a no-brainer for most off road riding.   Our hands are critical for maintaining control of the vehicle and are often exposed to both internal stress like griping handlebars or steering wheels and to external dangers from obstacles.  You might get away with wearing some heavy leather work gloves or even truck driver's driving gloves but actual off road riding gloves will be more comfortable and better protect your hands.  Off road gloves are usually fairly soft and flexible so they are comfortable and leave you with the good flexibility and dexterity you need to manage the controls  while also having special pads added to protect the exposed back side of your fingers and hands from unwanted impacts.  Work gloves tend to be bulky and often have fat seams that can cause sores and blisters.  The usually don't breathe very well and your hands will get hot and sweaty.   For cold days, wear Wind Chill gloves or add glove liners to keep your hands warmer.  Ski gloves are certainly warm, but usually are too bulky to handle the controls safely.  Ski poles require a lot less finesse than throttle grips, brake and clutch levers, and other controls.  Riding gloves are designed to fit comfortably, allowing you to grip the handlebars securely without seams hurting your hands.  They have vented backs with plastic ribs to protect your fingers and the back of hour hands from moderate impacts.  Glove liners can usually be used to add warmth on cold days.  You might need a slightly larger size of gloves if your regular gloves already fit snugly.  With my family of 8 off-road riders, glove liners would have been quite expensive (they typically cost around $16-20 a pair).  We found that simple knitted gloves worked well for us and were even able to get them at our local dollar store in packages of two pair!  The boys weren't thrilled about wearing pink or baby blue gloves, but no one could see them under their riding gloves and they did keep their hands warm.

                                       

Ordinary leather work gloves provide some level of protection but properly designed riding gloves will be more comfortable, allow more dexterity, and provide better protection against impacts than plain work gloves ever will.  Riding gloves have soft palms that allow a comfortable yet secure grip on the controls combined with a flexible armored padding on the back to protect against anything your hand may come unexpectedly in contact with -- like bushes, trees, or even the ground!

Regular riding gloves are usually vented to keep your hands cool on hot summer days but you can also get Windchill gloves designed for colder days.  Another option is to add glove liners.  The ones I've seen cost about as much as the gloves.  We found that simple knit gloves worked pretty well for a fraction of the cost.  Often we got them 2 pair for a dollar at our local dollar stores.  Sometimes they were pink or baby blue but, hey!, who's going to see them under you gloves anyway!

Having proper hand protection will make all of your rides better.   Good gloves will avoid blisters, improve grip, keep your hands warmer in cool breezes, and protect against scrapes and bruises.

Get a grip!

OHV Riding Boots

                                                         

 

Next to helmets and goggles, riding boots are probably the next most important and most specialized piece of personal protective equipment for riding ATVs and dirt bikes.  Because they are specialized, they tend to be a little pricey and some people shy away from them because of the cost.  Some people will substitute various kinds of work boots, but none of them will actually perform as well as riding boots.  Riding boots are designed to provide the kind of protection and support your feet and ankles need as well as the flexibility you need for proper control when operating an OHV.  Riding boots have fairly flat toes that fit under shift levers.   Toes on work boots are often bulbous and can be difficult to slide under shift levers.   No doubt you will see foolish riders wearing just about anything on their feet:  loafers, tennis shoes, running shoes, even flipflops!  But to be sure, it is only a matter of time before they pay the price.  Bruised or even fractured arches are possible just from kick starting a dirt bike without the right kind of boots.  And if your foot encounters a rock or log in casual footwear, something is going to get broken and it won't be the rock or log!  I have even seen riders get injured wearing riding boots but their injuries would have been a lot worse if they hadn't been wearing proper boots.  They came close to losing a few toes; without the boots they would have lost their foot!

Riding boots usually have a metal guard around the tip of the sole.  Work boots usually do not have this guard.  It is needed because the tips of your boots are often subjected to rocks and other debris when riding an ATV or dirt bike.  Without the metal tip the toes of your boots would quickly wear out and leave YOUR toes unprotected!  If the tip protector gets loose, tap the nails back in.  If they are too loose, stick a little piece of a wooden match or toothpick into the hole or replace the nails with short screws.  If you loose a tip entirely, replace it as quickly as you can.  I have to admit I wore work boots the first few times I rode my dirt bike.  I think they had steel toes for extra protection but the rather bulbous rounded toes of work boots (especially those with steel toes) definitely do not fit well under motorcycle shift levers.  Riding boots are designed with flat, square toes that make engaging and working the shift lever easier and safer while still protecting your foot.  The higher shaft, extending almost to the knee also provides a lot more ankle support and protection for your shins as well as guarding against spraining your ankles.

The tall shaft of riding boots protects your shins and calves from injury and supports your ankles.  Typical work boots have only 6"or 8"tops.  Riding boot tops are more like a foot tall, covering most of your shin and calf.  The added length also gives extra stabilization to your ankles.

Most all boots, including work boots as well as riding boots, have steel shanks.  The steel shank protects the arch of your foot when stomping on the kick starter and when standing on the foot pegs.  Properly formed steel arches also support the arch of your foot in a natural position while riding and walking.

I have generally found my riding boots were adequate to keep my feet warm in cool weather thanks to the heavy motocross socks I always wear inside of them.  If you happen to do a lot of riding in even colder weather, you can buy insulated riding boots.  However, given the relatively high cost of riding boots, I have never found it necessary to have insulated riding boots.  If I were doing a lot of snowmobiling I might change my mind.

My family and I have experimented with several different brands of riding boots, and there are certainly many brands to choose from, manufactured in many different countries.  The brand we have come to favor over the years is Alpine Stars.    I think we started with Tech 3s and worked our way up to Tech 10s.  Each generation introduced new features and benefits with the Tech 10 boots having removable booties that could be washed to freshen the boots between rides.  You can use the boots without the booties.  One of my grown sons, who is bigger than I am, borrowed my boots and since they were a smaller size than he usually wore he had to wear them without the booties.  Not generally a recommended practice, but it works in a pinch.

The center of the sole of riding boots is usually the first to wear out, especially if you don't have an electric starter and rely on kick starting your ride.  I have seen the soles of riding boots worn almost to the steel shank from stomping the kick starter and standing on the pegs.  Fortunately, new soles can be purchased and installed by a qualified shoe repair shop and they are a lot less expensive than new boots!

Of course your boots will look better and last longer if you take proper care of them.  I use spring clamps to hang my boots by the back of the shaft to prevent them slumping over while sitting around on the soles.  When they get bent over they can develop folds and wrinkles that may rub on your ankles and cause bruises and blisters.  Avoid getting your boots wet if you can.  Most boots have significant parts made of leather which will get stiff after it gets soaked a few times.  If you do get your boots wet, dry them as soon as possible, but don't subject them to high heat which can damage the materials.  Clean your boots after every outing.  You can use ordinary shoe polish of a matching color on most boots to cover scuffs and help restore the finish.  I like to occasionally use some Leather Balm to condition the leather and help keep it soft.  I use Maxxim SC-1 on both the plastic and leather parts of my boots for a final shine and as extra UV and moisture protection and to make it harder for dirt and mud to stick.

Riding boots use specialized straps and latches which sometimes break.  You can usually buy replacement straps at your favorite OHV shop or from the manufacturer's web site.  If the part of the latch that is permanently attached to the boot is damaged you will probably have to take it to a shoe repair shop to be fixed or replaced.  You can buy extra long straps if the factory straps are too short for your boots to fit around your calves.  Knee and shin guards and sturdy knee supports often take up more space than you have in your boots using standard straps.

The metal tips on the soles are held on my little nails and those nails can work loose over time.  Inspect the tips regularly and tap the nails back into place if any are coming loose.  Over time the holes may get worn so the nails don't seem to want to stay stuck.  You might try tightening them by removing each nail and inserting a little piece of a wooden toothpick into the hole before reinstalling the nail.  Another trick might be to fill the holes with some kind of plastic filler.  You want something sturdier than silicone sealer but more flexible than Bondo. You also might try replacing the nails with short screws.  Be sure not to over tighten them or you will strip out the holes in the soles!

If  you need new straps, buckles, or metal tips, do an Internet search for "motocross boot parts" and you will get plenty of options.  Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive and usually pretty easy to install.  If you have any trouble or doubt your skill to make repairs just about any competent shoe repair shop can probably handle the job for you.

Make sure your boots fit right!  Boots that are too large will be clumsy and will flop around and may cause blisters on your feet.  They may also make it difficult to operate controls such as brake and shifters.  Boots that are too tight can restrict circulation and cause pain.  You should wear fairly heavy motocross socks with riding boots to cushion your feet so keep that in mind when sizing your boots.  I like to wear a pair of light weight dress socks under my motocross socks to help prevent blisters as they are slicker than the fuzzy motocross socks.  The dual sock systems allows slippage between the light weight socks and the motocross socks instead of between my skin and the socks.  I haven't noticed any extra heat problems, even in desert temperatures over 100F.

The legs of your riding pants should fit inside your riding boots.  There should also be room for the shin guards attached to your knee pads.  If you have trouble fastening the straps you may be able buy longer straps or have a shoe repair shop make some that will work for you.  You don't want the legs of your riding pants over your boots where they can get caught on things along the trail.

Nancy Sinatra had a hit song called "These Boots Were Made For Walking".   Believe me, riding boots were NOT made for walking!  The stiff construction is designed to provide the support and protection you need riding a motorcycle or ATV.  Of course you CAN walk in them for short distances, but they won't be very comfortable for walking very far.  I like to change out of my riding boots as soon as I get back to camp from each ride.  That also avoids having the metal buckles and toes damage the interior of my camper or other vehicle.

Riding boots tend to be rather expensive, but, fortunately, with proper care, they usually last a long time.  And their cost is small compared to the cost of injuries from not having them -- direct medical costs plus possible loss of work plus pain and suffering.  Besides that, they look cool!

Boot up!