OHV Riding Gloves

Gloves are kind of a no-brainer for most off road riding.   Our hands are critical for maintaining control of the vehicle and are often exposed to both internal stress like griping handlebars or steering wheels and to external dangers from obstacles.  You might get away with wearing some heavy leather work gloves or even truck driver's driving gloves but actual off road riding gloves will be more comfortable and better protect your hands.  Off road gloves are usually fairly soft and flexible so they are comfortable and leave you with the good flexibility and dexterity you need to manage the controls  while also having special pads added to protect the exposed back side of your fingers and hands from unwanted impacts.  Work gloves tend to be bulky and often have fat seams that can cause sores and blisters.  The usually don't breathe very well and your hands will get hot and sweaty.   For cold days, wear Wind Chill gloves or add glove liners to keep your hands warmer.  Ski gloves are certainly warm, but usually are too bulky to handle the controls safely.  Ski poles require a lot less finesse than throttle grips, brake and clutch levers, and other controls.  Riding gloves are designed to fit comfortably, allowing you to grip the handlebars securely without seams hurting your hands.  They have vented backs with plastic ribs to protect your fingers and the back of hour hands from moderate impacts.  Glove liners can usually be used to add warmth on cold days.  You might need a slightly larger size of gloves if your regular gloves already fit snugly.  With my family of 8 off-road riders, glove liners would have been quite expensive (they typically cost around $16-20 a pair).  We found that simple knitted gloves worked well for us and were even able to get them at our local dollar store in packages of two pair!  The boys weren't thrilled about wearing pink or baby blue gloves, but no one could see them under their riding gloves and they did keep their hands warm.

                                       

Ordinary leather work gloves provide some level of protection but properly designed riding gloves will be more comfortable, allow more dexterity, and provide better protection against impacts than plain work gloves ever will.  Riding gloves have soft palms that allow a comfortable yet secure grip on the controls combined with a flexible armored padding on the back to protect against anything your hand may come unexpectedly in contact with -- like bushes, trees, or even the ground!

Regular riding gloves are usually vented to keep your hands cool on hot summer days but you can also get Windchill gloves designed for colder days.  Another option is to add glove liners.  The ones I've seen cost about as much as the gloves.  We found that simple knit gloves worked pretty well for a fraction of the cost.  Often we got them 2 pair for a dollar at our local dollar stores.  Sometimes they were pink or baby blue but, hey!, who's going to see them under you gloves anyway!

Having proper hand protection will make all of your rides better.   Good gloves will avoid blisters, improve grip, keep your hands warmer in cool breezes, and protect against scrapes and bruises.

Get a grip!

OHV Riding Boots

                                                         

 

Next to helmets and goggles, riding boots are probably the next most important and most specialized piece of personal protective equipment for riding ATVs and dirt bikes.  Because they are specialized, they tend to be a little pricey and some people shy away from them because of the cost.  Some people will substitute various kinds of work boots, but none of them will actually perform as well as riding boots.  Riding boots are designed to provide the kind of protection and support your feet and ankles need as well as the flexibility you need for proper control when operating an OHV.  Riding boots have fairly flat toes that fit under shift levers.   Toes on work boots are often bulbous and can be difficult to slide under shift levers.   No doubt you will see foolish riders wearing just about anything on their feet:  loafers, tennis shoes, running shoes, even flipflops!  But to be sure, it is only a matter of time before they pay the price.  Bruised or even fractured arches are possible just from kick starting a dirt bike without the right kind of boots.  And if your foot encounters a rock or log in casual footwear, something is going to get broken and it won't be the rock or log!  I have even seen riders get injured wearing riding boots but their injuries would have been a lot worse if they hadn't been wearing proper boots.  They came close to losing a few toes; without the boots they would have lost their foot!

Riding boots usually have a metal guard around the tip of the sole.  Work boots usually do not have this guard.  It is needed because the tips of your boots are often subjected to rocks and other debris when riding an ATV or dirt bike.  Without the metal tip the toes of your boots would quickly wear out and leave YOUR toes unprotected!  If the tip protector gets loose, tap the nails back in.  If they are too loose, stick a little piece of a wooden match or toothpick into the hole or replace the nails with short screws.  If you loose a tip entirely, replace it as quickly as you can.  I have to admit I wore work boots the first few times I rode my dirt bike.  I think they had steel toes for extra protection but the rather bulbous rounded toes of work boots (especially those with steel toes) definitely do not fit well under motorcycle shift levers.  Riding boots are designed with flat, square toes that make engaging and working the shift lever easier and safer while still protecting your foot.  The higher shaft, extending almost to the knee also provides a lot more ankle support and protection for your shins as well as guarding against spraining your ankles.

The tall shaft of riding boots protects your shins and calves from injury and supports your ankles.  Typical work boots have only 6"or 8"tops.  Riding boot tops are more like a foot tall, covering most of your shin and calf.  The added length also gives extra stabilization to your ankles.

Most all boots, including work boots as well as riding boots, have steel shanks.  The steel shank protects the arch of your foot when stomping on the kick starter and when standing on the foot pegs.  Properly formed steel arches also support the arch of your foot in a natural position while riding and walking.

I have generally found my riding boots were adequate to keep my feet warm in cool weather thanks to the heavy motocross socks I always wear inside of them.  If you happen to do a lot of riding in even colder weather, you can buy insulated riding boots.  However, given the relatively high cost of riding boots, I have never found it necessary to have insulated riding boots.  If I were doing a lot of snowmobiling I might change my mind.

My family and I have experimented with several different brands of riding boots, and there are certainly many brands to choose from, manufactured in many different countries.  The brand we have come to favor over the years is Alpine Stars.    I think we started with Tech 3s and worked our way up to Tech 10s.  Each generation introduced new features and benefits with the Tech 10 boots having removable booties that could be washed to freshen the boots between rides.  You can use the boots without the booties.  One of my grown sons, who is bigger than I am, borrowed my boots and since they were a smaller size than he usually wore he had to wear them without the booties.  Not generally a recommended practice, but it works in a pinch.

The center of the sole of riding boots is usually the first to wear out, especially if you don't have an electric starter and rely on kick starting your ride.  I have seen the soles of riding boots worn almost to the steel shank from stomping the kick starter and standing on the pegs.  Fortunately, new soles can be purchased and installed by a qualified shoe repair shop and they are a lot less expensive than new boots!

Of course your boots will look better and last longer if you take proper care of them.  I use spring clamps to hang my boots by the back of the shaft to prevent them slumping over while sitting around on the soles.  When they get bent over they can develop folds and wrinkles that may rub on your ankles and cause bruises and blisters.  Avoid getting your boots wet if you can.  Most boots have significant parts made of leather which will get stiff after it gets soaked a few times.  If you do get your boots wet, dry them as soon as possible, but don't subject them to high heat which can damage the materials.  Clean your boots after every outing.  You can use ordinary shoe polish of a matching color on most boots to cover scuffs and help restore the finish.  I like to occasionally use some Leather Balm to condition the leather and help keep it soft.  I use Maxxim SC-1 on both the plastic and leather parts of my boots for a final shine and as extra UV and moisture protection and to make it harder for dirt and mud to stick.

Riding boots use specialized straps and latches which sometimes break.  You can usually buy replacement straps at your favorite OHV shop or from the manufacturer's web site.  If the part of the latch that is permanently attached to the boot is damaged you will probably have to take it to a shoe repair shop to be fixed or replaced.  You can buy extra long straps if the factory straps are too short for your boots to fit around your calves.  Knee and shin guards and sturdy knee supports often take up more space than you have in your boots using standard straps.

The metal tips on the soles are held on my little nails and those nails can work loose over time.  Inspect the tips regularly and tap the nails back into place if any are coming loose.  Over time the holes may get worn so the nails don't seem to want to stay stuck.  You might try tightening them by removing each nail and inserting a little piece of a wooden toothpick into the hole before reinstalling the nail.  Another trick might be to fill the holes with some kind of plastic filler.  You want something sturdier than silicone sealer but more flexible than Bondo. You also might try replacing the nails with short screws.  Be sure not to over tighten them or you will strip out the holes in the soles!

If  you need new straps, buckles, or metal tips, do an Internet search for "motocross boot parts" and you will get plenty of options.  Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive and usually pretty easy to install.  If you have any trouble or doubt your skill to make repairs just about any competent shoe repair shop can probably handle the job for you.

Make sure your boots fit right!  Boots that are too large will be clumsy and will flop around and may cause blisters on your feet.  They may also make it difficult to operate controls such as brake and shifters.  Boots that are too tight can restrict circulation and cause pain.  You should wear fairly heavy motocross socks with riding boots to cushion your feet so keep that in mind when sizing your boots.  I like to wear a pair of light weight dress socks under my motocross socks to help prevent blisters as they are slicker than the fuzzy motocross socks.  The dual sock systems allows slippage between the light weight socks and the motocross socks instead of between my skin and the socks.  I haven't noticed any extra heat problems, even in desert temperatures over 100F.

The legs of your riding pants should fit inside your riding boots.  There should also be room for the shin guards attached to your knee pads.  If you have trouble fastening the straps you may be able buy longer straps or have a shoe repair shop make some that will work for you.  You don't want the legs of your riding pants over your boots where they can get caught on things along the trail.

Nancy Sinatra had a hit song called "These Boots Were Made For Walking".   Believe me, riding boots were NOT made for walking!  The stiff construction is designed to provide the support and protection you need riding a motorcycle or ATV.  Of course you CAN walk in them for short distances, but they won't be very comfortable for walking very far.  I like to change out of my riding boots as soon as I get back to camp from each ride.  That also avoids having the metal buckles and toes damage the interior of my camper or other vehicle.

Riding boots tend to be rather expensive, but, fortunately, with proper care, they usually last a long time.  And their cost is small compared to the cost of injuries from not having them -- direct medical costs plus possible loss of work plus pain and suffering.  Besides that, they look cool!

Boot up!

OHV Helmets and Goggles

                                                         

 

Perhaps the single most essential and irreplacable piece of personal protective equipment for OHV riders are their helmets and goggles.  You can sometimes get away with wearing substitutes for other parts of your body armor, but there is nothing else that gives the protection your head needs.  Head injuries are often very serious and even fatal and, unfortunately, are among the most common injuries associated with motorcycle and other OHV accidents.

Helmets should  be properly rated to meet certain standards of protection.  There are four primary rating systems:  Snell, DOT, ECE and FIM.   Each one identifies the organization that established, maintains, and certifies helmets to their standards.  Snell is the Snell Memorial Foundation.  Its ratings are required by certain racing organizations. DOTis the United States Department of Transportation.  ECE is the Economic Commission for Europe.  Helmets that do not have at least one of these certifications stickers are considered to be novelty helmets and should never be considered safe.  FIM is another rating system by a global motorcycle organization for helmets for track use.

Snell is perhaps the oldest and best recognized rating, even being sometimes considered to be the gold standard for helmets.

Any helmet used for off road activities or highway motorcycle riding should meet at least one of the accepted standards.   If you have a helmet that does not meet any of these standards you should replace it with one that does as soon as possible -- before you actually need it protect your head in an accident.  You don't want to put your head in a $10 helmet unless you only have a $10 head!

Helmets will not prevent all head injuries, but they will mitigate many of them.  No matter how strong or safe a helmet is, the impact in any specific accident might exceed its level of protection.  However, one thing is absolutely certain:  NOT wearing an approved helmet will significantly increase your chances of serious or fatal head injuries in an OHV accident.

Certified helmets are not cheap.   But it can be said you should only use a $10 helmet if you have a $10 head!  The medical cost of any head injury will quickly exceed the price of a good helmet, without even counting loss of work income or pain and suffering.

Helmets come in open-face and full-face versions.   Open face helmets are usually worn by riders on street bikes.  Most off-road riders wear full-face helmets.  Helmets are available with and without face shields.  Even when I have had face shields I wear goggles for better eye protection.  Street riders preference for open-face helmets may be due to a need for a greater range of vision in street traffic and off-road riders need the extra protection of the chin guard of full-face helmets.  All I had was an open-face street helmet for my first couple of dirt bike rides, but I soon switched to a full-face helmet and I have always been glad I did.  Many years ago I watched a rider air-lifted from a remote forest service campground after he caught a low hanging branch in the face wearing an open face helmet.  It nearly ripped his jaw off!  To his credit, he was back on the trails the very next day but it was a very painful, traumatic, and expensive incident.

Many helmets and almost all off-road helmets come with a visor.   If your helmet does not have one it may be possible to obtain an after-market visor to fit it.  Visors are really helpful when riding toward the rising or setting sun and sometimes help keep the rain off, at least when you aren't moving forward fast!

Many helmets include face shields.  However, a face shield is not an adequate or appropriate substitute for goggles.  A face shield will block much of the wind and deflect some debris but does not provide the complete eye protection you get from wearing the right googles.  Plan on wearing goggles even if your helmet does have face shield.  Regularly check your face shield to make sure the mounting bolts are properly tightened.   Vibration can cause the bolts to work loose and you could lose your face shield out on the road or the trail.  If it blows off it will most always be damaged beyond repair for further use.  The distraction could cause you to lose control of your machine.

Helmets are pretty much only good for one hard crash.  Once they have done their job they should be replaced.  Even if the helmet isn't cracked or doesn't appear damaged, the shock absorbing material inside is likely to have been crushed.  And while it has done its job absorbing the shock and protecting your head once, it won't be able to do it again.  It is designed to be crushed to absorb the impact.  It doesn't rebound.  Unfortunately there is no non-destructive way to test a helmet to determine if it has been compromised.  Better to replace it if it has been hit hard.  When purchasing used helmets look for deep scratches or scuffing or dings that might indicate it has been hit.  Ask the seller about the helmet's history, but be cautious because they might tend to downplay any problems in order to try to sell it.  If possible, buy only from someone you know and can trust or only buy new helmets.

You will see people with add-on decorations for their helmets, such as bristles, decals, paint, braids or pigtails, mohawks, and even cat ears.  There are some restrictions you’ll need to consider, of course, including what decorations are road legal and which, if any, will weaken your helmet.  Exercise caution whenever you modify your helmet so you don't affect the integrity or proper function of your helmet.  Customization can make it easier for other riders to identify on the trail or on the track.  Be aware that some paints and adhesives could degrade not only the finish but the strength of the helmet shell.  According to DOT standards, anything that protrudes more than 2/10 of an inch from the helmet's surface is unsafe. If your helmet has decorations or accessories like spikes and mohawks that stick up inches from the helmet, it's likely not a proper DOT motorcycle helmet.    These regulations are far more likely to be applied and enforced for street riding than for off-road use but even without law enforcement reminders, you should adhere to the standards for your own safety and protection.  Having some protrusion on your helmet get caught going under a tree branch could be very painful, perhaps even fatal!

Some helmets are equipped with ear phones and even microphones for use with radios.  If yours is not so equipped you can purchase headsets that fit inside the helmet to provide the same capabilities.  Finding the commercially available motorcycle two-way radio systems too expensive I adapted standard hand-held walkie-talkies using an earphone with an attached microphone.  I slipped the radio into a pocket on my Camel-bak hydration pack.  I have tried voice activated microphones but found that often the noise of the motorcycle caused them to turn on randomly so I normally use a setup with a push-to-talk switch.

Helmets are usually designed to be reasonably comfortable in all kinds of weather.  The close fit usually keeps your head and ears warm in colder weather but there is normally enough ventilation to keep them cool enough in hot weather.  You may need a face mask to keep your nose and cheeks warm in cold weather.   You can use an ordinary ski mask but you will probably be more comfortable with thinner nylon face mask designed for use with helmets.  The only downside I've found to face masks is that they let my breath fog my goggles.  You might need to experiment a little with different styles to find the one that works best for you.  Anti-fog compounds can help keep your goggles clear.

Goggles are next on the list.  Why?  Well, eyes are very fragile and you only have one pair of them.  If they get damaged you will likely be blind or have diminished vision the rest of your life.  Some riders like the fashionable appearance of sunglasses over goggles but sunglasses, even safety glasses, do not provide the same level of protection as goggles.  Sunglasses allow air flow around the edges, which can deliver damaging bits of debris into your eyes.  Properly fitted goggles block that air flow.  There is a foam covered gap between the inner and outer frames.  The gap allows air to flow to reduce fogging while foam filters out dust and debris that could injure your eyes.  When riding in bright sunlight it is helpful to wear sunglasses under your goggles if they will fit or wear tinted goggles.  Avoid wearing tinted goggles or sunglasses in late evening.  Auto-darkening lenses are available so you can wear the same goggles in bright sunlight, with darkened lenses, and after dark with clear lenses.  However, darkening lenses tend to darken fairly quickly (usually only a few seconds) but can take several minutes to return to clear.  Wearing them out on the trail they should adjust to diminishing light as you need it but they won't lighten up quickly if you enter a darkened space like a tunnel or under a bridge.

Goggles are prone to fog up during cool, damp weather.   There are anti-fog compounds you can apply to  reduce fogging.  The best one I have found is called Cat Crap.  Don't let the name turn you away.  It really does work!  Lacking an anti-fog compound you can sometimes get some relief using and old diver's trick:  clean the inside of your goggles with spit!  Sounds kind of disgusting, but it does help reduce fogging and unless you are seriously dehydrated you always have some available, even out on a remote trail.

Goggles and face shields are prone to get scratched.   You will want to do all you can to prevent that.  Helmets usually come with a nice storage bag that can protect the face shield when you aren't wearing your helmet.  Be sure to use it!  Goggles often have cloth storage pouches too.  If you lose yours or don't have one, use an old (clean) soft sock.  Both goggles and face shields can be cleaned with plastic polish to remove light scratches and restore clarity.  I use a 3-step product from Novus.  One bottle is for heavy scratches and contains fairly coarse granules.  The second step has finer granules, and the final step has really fine granules to polish the surface.  Goggles and face shields can also fog up on cold, humid days.  Anti-fog preparations can help reduce fogging.  The best one I've seen is called Cat Crap and it comes in both spray and cream forms.  Sometimes, in a pinch out on the trail, you might try the old diver's trick of spitting on the inside of your googles to help reduce fogging.  I have also seen Youtube videos suggesting using dish washing detergent on eye classes to prevent fogging and it might be worth trying.  Use a drop on each side of each lens and polish until dry.  Do not add any water.

If your OHV PPE budget is limited, focus first on a good helmet and goggle system.  Substituting ordinary work boots and gloves for riding boots and gloves increases your risk of injury in an accident and may not be comfortable,  But the risks of injury are no where near as much as not having proper, certified head and eye protection.

Heads up!

Global Warming/Climate Change and Camping, RVing, and Boating

We are constantly hearing about the problems of global warming (now called climate change) along with strong admonitions to reduce or eliminate the use of fossil fuels to stop it.  As RVers, OHVers, boaters, or even campers, we may even be pressured by environmentalists to totally abandon our favorite pastimes.  The famous Sierra Club at one time had a written manifesto that called for the total elimination of ALL off road activity by the year 2000.  Thankfully, that didn't happen.  One thing it did accomplish was to alientate their own 4 wheel drive members into a completely separate club.

In recent years the common reference has been changed from "global warming"to "climate change".  Don't let that fool you.  One of the reasons was that there was a decided lack of verified scientific readings to support the idea of global warming.  In some cases it was proven that reported data had been falsified in an attempt to support the unsubstantiated global warming agenda of certain groups.  However, there is still a lot of purported evidence for real climate change.  Climate change is not a new phenomena.  Consider the known Ice Ages of the past.

There appears to be two camps when it comes to global warming/climate change:  believers and non-believers.  To be honest I have always been a bit of a skeptic, almost to the point of being grouped with the non-believers.  For one thing, I think it is quite arrogant of us as humans to believe we can overwhelm nature!  There is a certain amount of evidence that is repeatedly touted as proving we are at fault.  However, actual historic evidence shows that periodic global warming is the result of cosmological changes in our solar system and earth's position in it, things we can absolutely do nothing about!  Yes, it appears that global warming is a fact.  And no, human beings have not been definetively proven to be the primary cause of it!

I recently discovered some very interesting independent research that clarifies a lot of things for me.  It acknowledges global warming as a fact.  But is also points out it is a natural phenomenon and shows graphs of regular repetitions of global warming for at least the last 400,000 years, based on geology, ice cores, and tree rings.  Perhaps the most revealing fact I learned was that in every occurrence, including the current one, temperature increased BEFORE CO2 increased!   It would appear from the historical  (and current) evidence that global warming causes an increase in CO2 and not the other way around as frequently and repeatedly claimed in popular media, who wants us to believe WE are increasing CO2 and that is causing global warming.  Since the temperature increase preceded the CO2 increase, that doesn't add up.   In fact, it kind of puts a grand slam on current "greenhouse gas" theories!  So, what does that mean for us?  Maybe we need to gain a greater understanding of the whole "problem" before we implement knee-jerk "solutions" that will very likely be ineffective unless they are based on solid science.  In almost every case, legislative solutions to technical problems have failed miserably.

Given that periodic global warming/climate change is historic fact, we might better spend our time and resources determining how we should respond to it, not flailing about with ineffective attempts to change it that significantly affects global economy and our personal choices!  We can learn from geological records what to expect in sea level changes and from things like tree rings we can learn about weather patterns.  While we may not be able to alter what global warming does to the oceans and the weather we CAN take appropriate actions to protect ourselves as a civilization and a species (and as individuals), against the affects.   We should be looking into what happened in previous global warming periods and devising protocols to ensure our survival and continued safety and comfort.  That might mean abandoning ocean front properties and focusing on promoting crops that can survive temperature changes.

Does any of this mean we should ignore "green"and "clean air" initiatives?  No of course not!  We still have a responsibility to be good stewards over and respect our beautiful planet.   We still need clean air to breathe.  Whether or not we are creating dangerous greenhouse gases we need to behave responsibly and protect all of our natural resources, especially trying to conserve those that are not renewable.  It should give us a greater incentive to look beyond the commonly promoted theories and invest a little more time in digging deeper and exploring all the relevant facts.  Then we should do what we can to promote appropriate social and legal responses that are relevant to the true situation in which we find ourselves instead of blindly following the self-serving mandates of people with personal biases and agendas they want to impose on us.

The use of fossil fuels seems to be at the heart of the global warming problem.  Burning coal and petroleum products to power our civilization produces millions of tons of pollution every year.  Nuclear power is one alternative to fossil fuels.  The fear of how to handle nuclear waste has created a public resistance to nuclear power.  However, I saw a recent report that showed handling of nuclear wastes was extremely safe and yields far less risk to human beings and the environment than the by products of of fossil fuels that we current largely ignore.   Widespread use of nuclear power plants to generate cost effective electricity may well be what we need to make electric vehicles practical.  Another recent study even showed eliminating the use of fossil fuels would actually increase climate change!

The use of renewable energy sources versus fossil fuels definitely makes sense.  It took Mother Nature millions of years to produce the seemingly abundant coal and petroleum products so much of our society relies on.  We can't replace them quickly or easily.  The conditions that created them no longer exist.  Wind, solar, hydroelectric and even tidal power sources should continue to be explored and developed.   Consider this:  virtually ALL the energy we have ultimately came from the sun!  Coal and oil came from ancient vegetation that stored solar energy.  Wind and even hydroelectric power are the result of sunshine.  Even nuclear fuel for our power plants came from exploding stars, fortunately NOT the one we currently depend on for light and energy!

Am I going to get rid of my RV, boat, and OHVs or leave them idle because of global warming?  No, absolutely not!  Am I going to feel guilty about my campfire emitting CO2 into the atmosphere?  Don't think so.  Am I going to use appropriately sized campfires instead of raging bonfires when I go camping?  Of course.  Am I going to keep my RV and OHVs properly tuned and use the most environmentally friendly fuels I can?  You bet!  Am I going to support research, education, and legislation that properly addresses our appropriate response to global warming?  Every chance I get!

Just do it!

Getting Emergency Medical Services (EMS) When You Need It When Camping or Boating

We are so very fortunate to have highly qualified Emergency Medical Services readily available to us most of the time.  However, the further you go off grid in your recreational pursuits, the harder it will be contact them and the longer it will take for them to get to you -- if they can even find you!  One of the most frustrating things I experience as a volunteer firefighter is not having good information about the nature of an incident and where it is.  Our designated coverage area includes many miles of highway, forest, river, and lots of campgrounds.  Fortunately modern cell phones with GPS can sometimes be used to locate a caller and hopefully they are near where help is needed.  I've even seen them used to track lost hikers and guide rescuers right to them!  But I have also seen situations where the GPS we got was far from the site of an accident along the highway.  Callers often have to go some distance to get a signal and not all pieces of electronic equipment are equally accurate.   If your pursuits take you into remote areas and many of our outdoor activities like hiking, camping, OHV riding, horseback riding do, it will be even harder for EMS personnel to reach you or even find you!  In some locations you will find it hard to even get a signal to make that most important 911 call.  It behooves you to know how to contact emergency medical services and how to help them find you!

As a volunteer firefighter and EMR (Emergency Medical Responder) I am acutely aware of the dangers lurking in outdoor recreational activities and the difficulty involved in getting emergency help when needed.  Too often our response is delayed by incomplete or inaccurate information about the situation -- or by how long it takes for someone to finally make the call.  Sometimes delays are unavoidable, e.g., the caller must travel some distance before they get cell service.  But sometimes people just wait too long before reaching out for help.  My advice, is always call sooner rather than later.  First responders would rather go on a dozen calls where they might not even be needed than have someone suffer or even die because they weren't called soon enough.   When participating in outdoor recreational pursuits, especially when going off road or off grid, plan ahead for how you will respond to an emergency if someone becomes sick or injured and needs medical attention.  Know where you will have to go to get cell phone service or obtain other assistance.  In some remote locations you may have to go to a ranger station to get help.  Sometime you can get cell service by going to the top of a hill or driving back closer to the nearest town.  Know where you have to go to get a signal so you don't waste critical time searching for one.  Seconds count in a life-threatening emergency!

Off shore boaters may be able to avail themselves of assistance from the Coast Guard, but sailors on inland waters may have to rely on park rangers and other local emergency response services.  Navigable lakes and rivers are often some distance from the bases from which emergency services operate and not all emergency service departments have boats to respond to marine emergencies.  Boaters often need to return to the dock or shore to meet emergency responders.

Campers, RVers, OHVers, boaters, and other outdoor enthusiasts often find themselves a long way from towns that have Emergency Medical Services.  Unfortunately, the kinds of activities we are often involved in increase the chances that we will need EMS.  Riding OHVs, working around campfires, maneuvering RVs and trailers, operating boats, rock climbing, and even just hiking can expose us to injuries we would not encounter at home.  At home it is pretty easy to dial "911" and get a quick response to get the help we need.  And then the time to reach the Emergency Room is usually pretty quick.  When we are out and about we may not have ready access to cell towers to even make the "911"call and once we do it will probably take some time for EMS resources to reach us, even if we give them good directions to our location.   Then it may take along time to transport the patient to an Emergency Room for treatment.  Thus it behooves us to make sure we know where to go to be able to make a call and how to help EMS find us.  Our rural fire department frequently makes use of Life Flight helicopters because we are 45-60 minutes away from any hospital.  In our area we have an insurance plane called FireMed that covers ambulance services and their premium service covers Life Flight.  You may want to obtain similar insurance in case you need efficient transport to the nearest medical facilities.

Today we all rely heavily on cell phones for basic communication.  The good news is that cell phones often have service in areas where there were never any land lines.  The bad news is that there aren't always cell towers near enough our outdoor activities to get service.Knowing where you have to go to get cell service just might mean the difference between life and death for an injured person.  Alternatives to cell phones might include CB and HAM radios that don't rely on cell towers.  Sometimes you can reach someone on the radio who has access to a telephone and can make that all important 911 call for you.  So, having and knowing how to use personal two-way radios could be a great advantage in an emergency.  CB channel 9 is the emergency channel but it is not as commonly monitored as it once was.  CB channel 13 is the unofficial RV channel.  However, the channel most commonly used by truckers is channel 19 and it has the best antenna efficiency so you might have better luck finding someone there.  You might be able to reach a trucker who is able to call 911 on his cell phone for you.  Be sure to give him the right information:  the nature of the emergency and the location, as correctly and concisely as possible.

Cell phone boosters are available that can extend the area of service for your cell phone, turning weak signals into usable signals.  Unfortunately they can't create a signal where there is none.  Cell phone boosters are kind of pricey, but you might find it worth the investment.  If you have anyone in your group that has any special medical conditions that might require fast emergency response, a cell phone booster might be a good investment.

Unfortunately, we face both higher chances of mishaps and slower EMS response times when we are camping or involved in other outdoor recreational pursuits.   Therefore we must be prepared so we can do our best to care for ill or injured companions and to expedite getting help for them when needed.  We can prepare ourselves to be able to care for sick or injured companions through basic and advanced first aid training, as frequently mentioned in this blog.  But we should also take steps to ensure we can expedite reaching EMS services and helping them to reach us.

There are a few things you can do to be better prepared if you do need to call EMS in a remote location.  First of all, I suggest you keep an eye on your cell phone reception as you approach your campground so you know where to go if you need to make an emergency call.  When boating, check your cell signal as you leave the dock.  Sometimes emergency calls can be made in fringe areas with weak signals, but just to be sure, know where you can get cell coverage when you need it.  Getting up on a hill top can sometimes help as it may get you above obstacles that would block the line-of-sight radio signals from the cell tower but if that isn't enough you should know how far back down the road you need to go to get cell service so you don't waste time searching for a signal, especially if you operate in waters.  Sometimes a cell phone booster in your vehicle and amplify cell signals in outlying areas.  Such systems typically cost several hundred dollars and will only work to boots weak signals, not get you a signal when there is none.  If you REALLY need remote access at all times you might consider a satellite phone, but those are still quite expensive to purchase and to operate.  Boaters may want to consider marine-band radios to expedite requests for emergency services, especially if you operate in waters under Coast Guard jurisdiction.    Land lubbers and boaters on inland waters may benefit from ham radios or even CB radios in some places.

Next, be prepared to provide accurate and concise directions so the 911 or other emergency response operator/dispatcher can tell the EMS team how to find you.   If you are in a developed campground, the name of the campground and your site identification should be sufficient to locate you.  However,  if you are in a dispersed camping area or out on a trail without clear landmarks to aid the EMS teams to find you, give the "911" operator the very best directions and distances you can.  You might be able to get geographic coordinates of your position from your cell phone or GPS and that would be helpful to emergency personnel trying to locate you.  If possible send someone down to an identifiable road or intersection to flag down the EMS vehicles and guide them to your location.  Be sure to give them a good description of your vehicle, tent, or other distinguishing characteristics of your camp site.  When boating always carry appropriate warning devices such as distress flags and flares.  Flares may be good for getting attention but are by nature, short lived.  Distress flags can be displayed throughout an emergency to alert other boaters to your need and guide  potential rescuers to you.

When you call "911" do your best to remain calm.  Think about what you need to tell them:  the nature of the injury or illness, when it happened or started, the age and gender of of the patient, and precise instructions for where you are and how to find you.  Also share any special circumstances, such as pre-existing conditions or physical disabilities your patient may have as that can have implications for responders.  You will probably we worried, frightened, excited, possibly somewhat flummoxed.  The hysterical reports 911 operators sometimes receive can be difficult to understand and can delay getting the response you need.   Try to be as calm and collected as possible so you can help them get you the help you need as quickly as possible.   Be prepared to listen to the instructions you are given by the 911 operator and carry them out exactly as given.  They are trained to provide proper directions for how you can best assist your patient until help arrives and help the EMS team get there as quickly as possible.  Be sure you understand the instructions you receive.  There is the story (fictional I hope!) about a hunter who calls 911 because his hunting buddy is was shot and he thought he was dead.  The 911 operator told him they should first make sure he was dead.  There was a short silence followed by a gun shot, then the hunter replied, Yes, I am sure he is dead!  I'm sure that wasn't what the 911 operator intended!  911 operators can often provide you with important, even life-saving, instructions.  Be prepared to do what you can until emergency services get there.

In some cases it may be beneficial to provide a signal to aid incoming responders.  In the day time that might consists of a brightly colored flag raised to where it can be easily seen from nearby access roads.  Or you might build a signal fire and load it up with green branches or leaves to create a column of smoke.  At night a large signal fire or flashing vehicle lights or flashlights can be helpful to responders who are trying to find you.  If you use a signal, be sure to let the "911" operator know what you are using so they can pass it along to the response team.  Just having someone stand where they can be seen from the road and jumping up and down and waving their arms can help rescuers find you.  Boaters will need to display distress flags or flares.  Aerial flares can be seen from a long distance but are fairly short lived.  Hand held flares can only be seen line of sight but usually burn for several minutes to help approaching responders to identify and locate you.  Displaying a proper distress flag throughout the duration of an emergency should be standard procedure.  Having someone keep an eye out for approaching responders and waving a bright colored flag (or shirt or jacket) to attract attention may be helpful.

Once you have called "911" stay with the patient at the location you gave the operator unless being there puts you and/or your patient in immediate danger.  If you must move, either notify the 911 operator, leave someone to tell EMS where you have gone, or keep your original location in sight.  It is usually best not to try to move an injured person before help arrives unless it is absolutely necessary.  Comply with all instructions you receive from the 911 operator to the best of your ability.

If you frequently visit places with little or no cell phone reception you might want to explore the options for boosting your cell signal.   Cell phone signal boosters are not cheap (several hundred dollars) but it still might be a good investment if you are often outside normal cell range.  If you or anyone in your regular group has been diagnosed with medical conditions that might make getting EMS help quickly a necessity, a cell phone booster may be well worth the cost.  Satellite phones are not dependent on cell towers and, since the transceivers for them are orbiting miles above the earth, they are usually not affected by mountains either.  Satellite phones are, however, still pretty darned expensive.  Phones start around $599 and can go up to thousands of dollars.  Plans start around $70 a month for 70 minutes of talk time.  You probably wouldn't want to use it for casual calls but it could be life saving to have those 70 minutes in a remote location.  Anyone with a high risk medical history or involved in high risk activities in remote locations should seriously consider getting a satellite phone for emergency use. If you have both high risk conditions and are involved in high risk activities you should probably consider a satellite phone as essential!

Another option for high risk situations is to carry a personal locator beacon.  A personal locator beacon, or PLB for short, is a personal electronic transmitting device that is designed to alert potential rescuers to a life-threatening situation in the air, on water or in remote areas.  They typically start a little north of  $200.  Higher priced units have more features.  All PLBs must be registered (free of charge) in the NOAA SARSAT (Search and Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) database to become active.  Once triggered during an emergency, the unit sends an SOS that alerts rescue teams to your exact location and tells them it is an emergency, likely life-threatening, situation.  PLBs don't require a monthly subscription.  Since you only turn them on when you need to send an SOS the batteries last a long time, up to 5 years.  When batteries need to be replaced the unit must be returned to the manufacturer for replacement.  Batteries should also be replaced after a unit has been activated.  I have heard that most manufacturers will give you a new unit if you have to activate one for a life-saving rescue.  Boaters sometimes use an Emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs), but they are quite a bit bigger and more expensive than PLBs and are usually only found on larger boats used in off-shore cruises.

Of course another option is for you -- or someone in your group -- to get certified in Emergency Medical procedures.   Even if EMS can reach you fairly quickly, having proper training can be useful until they get there.  Being able to provide appropriate immediate assistance can significantly reduce suffering and minimize complications. Sometimes it is even life saving!  If EMS personnel are far distant or delayed it is even more important for you to have qualified help with you.  Throughout my off road career I have endeavored to maintain first aid and CPR certification and more recently have obtained certification as an Emergency Medical Responder (EMR).  An EMR is the first level of EMS and historically was called first responder.  If you are involved in any kind of outdoor activities where serious injuries may occur you should know how to recognize and treat life threatening bleeding and to be able to identify and splint broken bones.  Those skills could well be life saving!  EMR training does not require the hundred of hours you need to become an EMT or paramedic, but it does give you the skills you need to provide appropriate treatment until a higher level of medical support arrives and that will provide your patients a lot of comfort and may even be life saving.  I have never personally provided life saving treatment to a fellow off roader but I have splinted broken bones and prepared patients for transport and am thankful I have the training to recognize and respond to life threatening situations if necessary.

Get the help you need help when you need it!

Preparing a Boat for Spring Launch

If you are like many boat owners, you took your boat out of the water during the winter months.  Sometimes storage fees are less than moorage fees and a boat can usually be better protected from winter weather "on the hard" than if it is left in the water.  Many kinds of maintenance, repairs, and upgrades are easier perform ''on the hard'' too.  If your boat is left in the water many but not all of the steps below will be applicable.  Boats left in the water may also need to have the hull inspected and perhaps cleaned of unwanted hitchhikers and algae which will require some diving under the boat unless it is hauled out.

The first step is usually unwrapping or uncovering the boat.  Many boats hauled out are shrink wrapped for the winter.  Others may simply be covered with a tarp or a boat cover. Boats left in the water may be protected with a boat cover or a tarp.  In any case the first step in getting a boat to use it to uncover it.  Once the covering is removed inspect the surface for any damage or moisture that may have gotten through or accumulated underneath the covering.  High humidity, often associated with areas where boats are found, can contribute to condensation inside waterproof covers.  Boats covered with a tarp will sometimes get damaged by the tarp rubbing against projecting surfaces.  Mark and note any damages so you can repair them before putting your boat in the water.  If you used a tarp to cover your boat, inspect it for wear and tear and make any needed repairs before putting it in storage so it will be ready to use again next year.  If it is worn or damaged beyond repair, discard it and buy a new one for next year.

Next up is a thorough cleaning.  Even though your boat has been protected from most environmental elements it will still need to be cleaned, inside and out, before you use it.  A good washing is all that is usually needed for the exterior.   A good coat of wax on the clean boat will help keep it looking nicer longer and provide some protection for the gelcoat or paint.    Don't wax the non-skid portions of the deck!  The interior will benefit from sweeping floors, vacuuming cushions, wiping down and sanitizing all hard surfaces, and cleaning cabinets, counters, appliances and plumbing fixtures.  If you see streaks or other signs of leakage on the ceiling or inside of the hull, make note of them so you can mediate the problem before it causes any more damage.  Spring cleaning is sometimes a good opportunity to repaint any areas that need it or you want to change for cosmetic or decorative reasons.  And don't forget the bottom!  Hopefully you cleaned the bottom while it was still damp when you took it out of the water last fall.  Now is a good time to make sure it is clean and check to see if it needs to be repainted.   If the old paint is badly worn or damaged it should definitely be repainted.  Always use a high quality bottom paint for underwater surfaces.  Bottom paint is engineered to help keep the hull clean.  A clean hull is a significant factor in performance, letting the boat to slip through the water uninhibited by junk stuck to the hull and allowing it to respond as best it can to the helm.  Speaking of the helm, don't forget to clean the rudder and lubricate any hinge points or other moving parts.

If you repaint the bottom, be sure to clean and sand it thoroughly and follow the paint manufacturer's recommendations for surface preparation.  If your boat is on a trailer or on stands in a boat yard there will be portions of the hull you cannot access.  For best results you need to lift and reposition the boat so you can prep and paint everything.  If that isn't possible, prep and paint all the areas you have access to.   Use an edge guard to paint as close as possible to the bunk boards or pads.  An old slat from a Venetian blind or a 6" or 8" sheetrock knife makes a pretty good make-shift edge guard to keep paint off the carpet on the bunk board.   Trailered boats often sit slightly differently on the bunk boards each time they are loaded so you may be able to gain at least partial access to the covered areas the next time you pull the boat out of the water.  When you repaint the bottom you should also consider painting the rudder and the propeller with bottom paint.  And don't forget the centerboard on sailboats that have them.

Any motor on a boat will need to be serviced according to the manufacturer's schedule and recommendations.  Typical pre-launch maintenance includes an oil change , checking air and fuel filters. and inspecting, lubricating and adjusting control cables and levers.   Old fuel should be drained and properly disposed of and the tanks filled with new fuel.  If you have trouble starting the engine after storage it will probably require the carburetor to be cleaned.  Old fuel, especially modern fuels with methanol added, deteriorate in just a few months leaving behind nasty deposits that can clog the jets and even gum up the float and foul fuel lines.  The E85 fuel sold for automobiles in many places is NOT recommended for outboard motors.

Anchors and rodes should be inventoried and inspected.  Both should be clean and have no visible signs of damage or excessive wear.  Both should be properly stowed without tangles where they can be easily accessed when needed.  A little surface rust is normal but you may want to clean it off and coat the metal parts with a little bit of oil to minimize them rusting again.

Dock lines and spring lines should also be checked.  Worn or damaged lines should be replaced.   If the ends are fraying, reset them.  Nylon lines can usually be melted to manage lose fibers.  Other lines may require wrapping with string or tape or heat-shrink tubing.  While you're at it, check your fenders, including the ropes that attach them, to be sure they will be suitable for another season of protecting your boat from the dock.  Frayed or damaged lines may fail leaving your boat to bang against the dock or break free and float away.  Remember, if your boat gets loose and causes damage to other boats or even the dock, you can be held financially responsible!

Tools, supplies, and provisions need to inventoried.  Worn. damaged, or missing tools should be replaced.  Used up, clogged, expired or missing supplies also need to be replaced.  Provisions (basic non-perishable food and hygiene supplies and medications and first aid supplies) also need be brought up to date.  Make sure your bilge pumps (electric and/or manual) are working properly.  This is also a good time to make sure everything is stowed properly where you know where it is and can get it when you need it.

If yours is a sailboat you will need to inspect the standing rigging.  That includes masts, booms, spars, stays, and shrouds.  Adjust as necessary and replace any frayed or damaged components.   Make sure all the mounting hardware is secure.   Also unfold and inspect the sails and check all the lines (halyards, sheets on the sails, docking lines, etc).  Check the winches and make sure all the cleats are secure to the deck.  Repair or replace any damaged or missing items.  Don't forget to check things like sail and tiller covers.  Inventory and inspect sail ties.  Repair or replace any damaged sail ties.

All safety items should be inventoried and inspected.  That would include navigation lights, life vests, throwable floation devices, and signaling devices (lights, flares, horns, flags, whistles and "day shapes").  Larger boats may have a dingy or life raft that needs to be inspected to be sure it is serviceable and correctly stocked.

If you have removed any components for winter storage (sails, rudder, cushions, dingy, etc) put them back onboard where they need to be.   For boats with cabins, check the berths to make sure the mattresses and cushions aren't damp or moldy and make sure you have clean, correct bedding on board.

If you have onboard plumbing, inspect all the tanks and visible lines and devices for leaks.  If necessary, sanitize and fill your fresh water tank and make sure waste holding tanks have the proper chemicals.  This applies to porta-pottys as well as permanent facilities.

Spring pre-launch is also a good time to install any new accessories you may want or need.  If the non-skid portions of the deck are worn it might also be a good time to repaint them with a good non-skid paint.  Doing so will make your boat safer and give it a fresh, almost new look.  Be sure to take care of any other damage to the deck or hull.

If your boat is on a trailer, you will want to check the tires and service the wheel bearings.  You will also want to check the wiring and lights and inspect the hitch and safety chains.  Then make sure the boat is properly secured to the trailer before attempting to move it. 

Non-perishable provisions should be inventoried and restocked as necessary.  You will want to wait until each trip to stock perishable supplies.

Ready for launch!

Fiberglass Repairs for RVs and Boats

Many of our RVs and boats have a lot of fiberglass components.  Fiberglass is quite durable, fairly resilient, and not too difficult to repair.  Interestingly enough, fiberglass will often resist impacts that would leave dents in metal components, sparing us some of what could be costly cosmetic repairs.  When fiberglass is damaged though, it takes special treatment to effect proper repairs.  You can get it done a professional body shops but if you are fairly handy you may be able to make many repairs yourself, unless you have an expensive vehicle that warrants the cost of professional repair.  Some big components (like front or rear caps on RVs) are sometimes damaged beyond repair and may have to be completely replaced but cracks and holes in the fiberglass paneling of RVs or fiberglass decks and hulls of boats can often lend themselves to DIY repairs. 

The plastic components of many OHVs don't lend themselves well to being repaired.  Mostly they should be replaced and are usually fairly easy to replace and not TOO expensive.  Side-by-sides however often have larger, more expensive components you might want to try to repair but they too usually have to be replaced to get a like-new appearance.

Fiberglass resin is also used to repair damage to metal body panels on cars and trucks.  It is used about the same way as you would use it on fiberglass.  Before Bondo and similar fiberglass repair materials, body repairmen used lead to fill and smooth welded repairs.  Lead makes a good fairly permanent repair but it requires a lot more time, equipment, and skill than fiberglass resin and presents a certain health risk so it has fallen out of normal use today.

Bondo is probably the best known of the fiberglass repair products.  It is used to repair dents in metal body parts on vehicles as well as on fiberglass.  Bondo is reasonably priced and fairly easy to work with.  It can be used by itself to fill small holes or with fiberglass cloth for larger repairs.  Ambient temperatures need to be above 40F for it to work properly.  When you buy Bondo it usually comes in a can with  plastic top that covers a tube of hardener.  Pay close attention to the instructions for how much hardener to use and how to mix it.  As I recall a general rule is to use about a 1" strip of hardener squeezed from the tube for about a golf-ball sized glob of filler.   If you don't use enough hardener, it will be slow to setup or may never set up; if you use too much, it will harden too quickly, before you can spread it properly.  Don't mix up more material than you can use in just a few minutes or it will harden before you can use it.

Repairs on RVs and above water repairs on boats can usually be done in situ, where ever the unit is normally kept.  Repairs below the waterline will usually require hauling the boat out of the water before repairs can be attempted.  Because of the criticality of repairs below the waterline you will want to take extra care or have them done by a professional.  A mistake in an above water repair could be embarrassing,  unsightly, or even costly.  A poor repair below the waterline could end up sinking your boat!

Doing fiberglass repairs is fairly safe but there are some requirements for personal protective equipment and procedures.   You should always wear a face mask or respirator when working with fiberglass resin and when sanding cured repairs.  Latex or rubber gloves are advised when mixing and using resin and when painting to avoid contaminating and injuring your skin.

Always check for structural damage before beginning repairs.  Many times cosmetic damage is he result of or part of structural damage beneath the surface.  Fiberglass boats usually have a wooden core between two layers of fiberglass that makes up the hull and bulkheads.  This wooden core can be compromised if water leaks in anywhere around hardware that penetrates the fiberglass, weakening and causing it to fail.  Repairing or replace rotted core is a difficult and expensive process but simply patching the fiberglass over a damaged core is a sure recipe for failure!  Impact damage that crushes fiberglass on boat and RVs can often damage structural members inside.  RVs usually have wooden (or sometimes metal) framing, kind of like a house.  If any of these framing member have been damaged you will need to open things enough to repair the structural damage before repairing the skin.

As with most tasks, preparation is a large part of making successful repairs.  When repairing fiberglass you may need to cut away damaged portions so they don't weaken the repair.   Broken, cracked, or otherwise damaged material should be removed so it doesn't weaken the repair.  Often you will want to drill a small hole at the end of crack to prevent it from continuing to extend into previously undamaged material.   It is also essential to thoroughly clean the surfaces around the repair where the Bondo will be applied to blend the patch into the surrounding surface.  Sometimes you may need a backing plate inside the component to be repaired to give a solid base upon which to construct the repair.  Backing plates may be temporary (long enough to make the repair) or permanent (part of the repair).  Check any structural components within the repair and fix any damage before repairing the covering.  For large holes spread a layer of mixed filler, then cover it with a piece of fiberglass cloth cut to fit over the hole.  Then cover the fiberglass with more filler,  tapering it toward the edges. For deep holes or dents you may have to apply multiple layers of patching. Really large holes may require the addition of patch panels.  Repeat as necessary to make it level with the surrounding area.  Eventually you will sand the cured repair until it blends smoothly into the surrounding surface.  I usually do initial shaping using a body file, then #60 sandpaper followed by successively finer grades of sandpaper down to at least #200 or #220 before applying primer.   If you are working with a deep dent it may take several layers of resin and fiberglass to build it back up to where it needs to be.  Be sure the let each layer dry according to the manufacturer's instructions but don't let them over-dry.  You want multiple layers to bond seamlessly with each other.  While it might be tempting to just fill up the hole all at one time that can prevent the bottom part from curing properly, leaving it somewhat soft and weakening the repair.

Once the application has cured (Bondo is usually dry in 10-15 minutes) you will need to file or sand it to remove any imperfections and blend the repair smoothly into the surrounding surfaces.  For best results you should then apply a finishing paste.  It is similar to the material used to build up the patch but is made of finer material to produce a smoother final surface.  Allow the finishing paste to dry and cure according the manufacturer's instructions, then sand it again until everything is really smooth.   The first step is usually using a body file or another coarse file to knock down any high spots.  Once you have things generally level, initial rough sanding may be done with coarse (#60 or #80) sandpaper.  Then used increasingly fine sandpaper (#100, #120, # 150, #220, #200 etc) until it is completely smooth.  Final sanding is often done with #400  or even #600 wet and dry paper.  If you are working with a long stand fiber repair product like Evercoat Kitty Hair and even for heavy Bondo repairs, you will most likely need to initially shape the repair with a body file or wood rasps and files to knock down the high spots before sanding.  I have found it typically takes 2 or 3 applications of Bondo and/or finishing paste to properly fill holes and return the surface to its proper shape.  Be sure to plan for that and allow enough time for multiple applications, with plenty of sanding and shaping between coats.  If you can see or especially if you can feel any edge or discrepancy in the surface of the repair it must be corrected before it is painted or it is going to look really bad.

Next apply a good coat of primer over the repaired area.  This is a step that is often ignored by amateurs, usually yielding poor results.  Primer is designed to bond tightly to the surface and to bond tightly to the finish layer of paint.  Top coats are designed to give a good final appearance and seal the surface but they aren't designed to bond tightly to bare surfaces.  Let the primer dry as needed.  To achieve the smoothest, shiniest results you should sand the primer with #400 wet and dry sandpaper before applying the top coat.  Read the directions on the primer can to see if you need more than one coat.  For best results, sand between each coat.  Some finish coats may claim they can be used without primer and those might work.  However, you will usually get more permanent and better looking results using a real primer first.  If you still see or feel any edges after priming, you may have to go back and redo some of the repair work again to make it smooth so it looks good.  A good repair will be invisible once the final coat is on.

Apply the topcoat according to the manufacturer's instructions.  You may want to apply multiple coats for maximum beauty and performance, possibly sanding with #400 or #600 wet and dry sandpaper between coats.  Do not sand after the final top coat!  

Inspect your repairs after the final topcoat has dried.  Sometimes you will find minor flaws in your repair that don't show up until then.   Tiny differences in texture might not show up until after the finish coat as cured.   If you do spot them, let the paint cure completely, then sand the offending spots down again until the flaws disappear and refinish the area with primer and topcoat again.  Sometimes it takes several interations to make repairs invisible but the results are well worth the extra effort.  It recently took at least 4 passes for me to get satisfactory results after repairing a few simple chips in the bow of my sailboat.  Some of those passes required going all the way back to redoing the Bondo!

I recently came across another product that claims to be stronger and more waterproof than Bondo.  It also contains long strands of fiberglass within the resin so it doesn't require fiberglass cloth for some of the smaller applications.  It is called Evercoat Kitty Hair.  It is a little more expensive than Bondo but not needing fiberglass cloth for smaller repairs and the additional strength and waterproofing may make it well worth the extra investment.  It is a lot faster than cutting fiberglass cloth to fill large holes (up to about the size of an egg -- holes bigger than that require additional repair with appropriate sheeting material and fiberglass cloth).

I have had a chance to try out Kitty Hair and it did a wonderful job of filling an egg-sized dent in the bow of my fiberglass sailboat.  I did discover that it is a little harder to smooth out than ordinary Bondo and I ended up using Bondo as the final coat before finishing paste, primer and paint.  Kitty Hair certainly worked well to build up a sturdy filler, much easier than repeatedly cutting graduated pieces of fiberglass cloth to fill in the hole.  I will still used ordinary Bondo for shallow scratches where the long strand fibers in Kitty Hair would be overkill and would be difficult to smooth out.  As mentioned above, I used rasps and files for the initial shaping followed by #60, #80, #100, #150, and #220 sanding before applying the primer.  The best file for this is called a body file and is specifically designed for working fiberglass fillers.    Body files are flat files with wide curved grooves that smooth scrape away high spots on fiberglass filler.  However, lacking a body file, you can usually get the job done with ordinary wood rasps and files if you are careful how you use them!  Be especially careful if you use a wood rasp.  The rough, sharp teeth can make deep gouges in the filler and you will have to fill them in and start over!

There are a lot of good videos on Youtube for both vehicle and vessel fiberglass repairs.  It would be well worth your time to view a few of these before embarking on your first attempt.   With a little patience and practice you can make a lot of repairs yourself, saving both time and money.

Many fiberglass boats (and RVs) have a gelcoat finish.  Repairing the gelcoat takes special gelcoat compound along with rather tedious preparation and application.  Sometimes you can use Topside paint to cover the repair if  you can match the color closely to the gelcoat.  It is difficult if not impossible to blend the paint into gelcoat for a seamless repair.  For that you need matching gelcoat.   If you opt to paint it instead, it might be best to mask off an appropriate section do be repainted.  If you still don't like the way it looks you might try applying some kind of decorative design to disguise the repair rather than trying to blend it it.  The design might involve vinyl decals or paint.  I used the masking technique when I had to repair a ding in the bow of our sailboat, painting the whole bow from deck to waterline for about 8".  The painted area is detectable up close but does not stand out and is WAY better than the original damage!  For best results get a gelcoat repair kit to match the finish on your vessel or vehicle.  In the long run it will be well worth the extra cost and extra effort.  Here is a Youtube video on gelcoat repair.

Rainy days?  Can't work outside?  Might still be able to get some things done.  A lot of fine sanding, like between coats of paint, are done using #400 wet-and-dry sandpaper and sanding wet.  So even if the surface is wet you can sand it.  You probably don't want to be standing out in a pouring rain.  That would be uncomfortable and it might be too much water even for wet sanding, but you might still be able to make some progress on a project without having to wait for another sunny day.  I did indeed take advantage of a couple of rainy days to do the wet sanding between top coats when I repaired the bow of my sailboat. Having to work on rainy days is pretty much a given here in Oregon!  My dad used to say there were only 3 seasons in Oregon:  Spring, Summer, and Rain -- and it rained in the Spring and the Summer!

Patch it up!