Camping Supplies from Dollar Tree

Dollar Tree  (and other dollar stores) probably doesn't pop right up when you think of camping stores.   True, you won't find tents or sleeping bags or stoves or lanterns at Dollar Tree, but you will find lots of supplies that can support your camping activities.  I take that back.  I did find some little solar powered lanterns at Dollar Tree one time but they aren't always available.  They often have solar pathway lights that can be easily adapted for many camping uses.

I am a strong proponent of looking for camping and RV/OHV supplies everywhere I go.  I have found bargains at drug stores, farm and ranch stores, travel centers, and grocery stores as well as at RV, OHV, camping, and outdoor outlets.  You can often find things you can use for camping in your own basement, attic, or garage.  One kind of surprising place I've found is my local dollar store.  The solvent resistance foam tiles on the work bench in my enclosed motorcycle trailer are kids animal puzzle tiles from the 99 Cents Store in California.  I was teased a lot when my riding buddies first saw them (pastel colors with cute animal cutouts), but they sure changed their tune when they saw how well they worked!  Not only do they provide a cushioned, non-slip working surface, they are surprisingly easy to clean.  I was delighted to discover that brake cleaner would remove oil and grease stains easily and completely without harming the tiles.  The first time I tried it I fully expected it to melt the tiles and I would have to replace them but they cleaned up like new, with no degradation at all!  So far they have served me well for decades!

Some people are skeptical about the quality of products at dollar stores.   But many times they sell name brand products.  Sometimes they may purchase overstock or discontinued items but sometimes they simply have enough buying power to offer brand names at significantly reduced prices.   Sometimes they might be reduced sizes.   If  you have any concerns about quality, you can always give it a try and make up your own mind without investing a lot of your hard  earned cash!  Even smaller sizes might give you a good chance to try out some products without breaking the budget.  Cleaning supplies, sundries, and even OTC medicines are usually a good value and acceptable quality.  Some folks are a little skeptical of cheap tools, but I have found them adequate and quite useful for light duty use around camp, and not too costly to replace if they are lost, stolen, or damaged.  At only a dollar each, they pay for themselves with just a single use!

We get most of our cleaning supplies, toiletries, sundries and OTC medications from Dollar Tree along with flashlights, batteries, and many kitchen utensils.  Paper goods, plastic utensils, etc are also readily available.  The cheap single ply toilet paper is a pretty good substitute for the more expensive RV tissue and a lot more compatible with holding tanks than the fancy quilted brands favored for residential use.  To be sure it will break down satisfactorily in holding tanks drop a few sheets in a jar of water for a while and shake it.  See how it is done on this RV toilet paper test.   It should quickly dissolve.  If it doesn't, don't use it in your RV toilet or porta-potty.

I've mentioned Dollar Tree and other dollar stores in several places in this blog.  Not long ago I found a camping article on Pinterest that also entreated readers to shop Dollar Tree for camping supplies and things to keep kids occupied in camp and on the road.  There were a few negative comments in response to her presentation that I thought were unwarranted or at least unjustified or uninformed.  As with anything you buy, you should make your own decisions and buy what works for you.  Like me, the original writer touted the advantages of dollar store flashlights and batteries.  At least one reader flat out rejected her advice.  He argued that sturdier flashlights lasted longer.  I stand by my original recommendation of using dollar store flashlights and batteries, especially for kids and loaners.  Like the critical reader, I like to have a couple of high quality Maglites for my own use.  They are indeed sturdy and will last  long time but I have found it particularly advantageous to use inexpensive and easily replaceable flashlights for kids and as loaners.   Those light weight plastic flashlights may not be as durable as nicer ones but, hey, I'm not out serious $$ if they are damaged or don't come back.  I was really ticked when one of my kids "borrowed" my brand new blue anodized Maglite for cave exploring and brought it back looking like it had been through a rock avalanche.  The good news?  It still worked just fine.  It just wasn't very pretty any more.  No doubt a cheap plastic flashlight would have been left in pieces in the cave. But at least I wouldn't have been out much!  Ever loan out a tool or piece of gear and have the borrower forget to return it?  If  you're like me it has happened more times than you would like, but I still like to be a good neighbor and help out my fellow campers when I can.  Having a few inexpensive flashlights and tools to loan out or for kids and grand kids allows me to do that without concerns or regrets.

Many of the cleaning products at dollar stores are brand names so often there is no question about quality.  However, don't reject their own house brands or off brands.  My wife and I have found than many of the "Awesome" branded products at Dollar Tree are excellent quality and match or even sometimes exceed the performance of similar brand names.  In addition to liquid and aerosol cleaners you can often find a variety of wet wipes.  I've found leather wipes, tire wipes, stainless steel wipes, furniture wipes, glass wipes, and mechanic's degreaser wipes in addition to traditional baby wipes and general purpose wipes.  They seem to come and go so I advise stocking up on what you want/need when you see them. They will last a fairly long time as long as the original package isn't opened.  Once the  package has been opened, always store it with opening down and put it in a Zip-loc bag between trips so it doesn't try out.  Standard detergents and cleaning products are usually kept well stocked so you can usually get those just about anytime.  By the way, aerosols are less likely to spill than liquid cleaners but if you're deeply concerned about their affect on the atmosphere, use manual spray products, or where feasible, wet wipes.  When I think about the overall effect of spills, I tend to favor aerosols rather than have to deal with the damage and potential air pollution from spilled liquids. 

OTC medications are another category I find Dollar Tree to be a good source for.  It enables me to easily and inexpensively stock my medicine cabinet with a variety of choices so all member of my family or group can chose their favorite pain relievers, etc.  Aspirin doesn't work for every one so I carry acetaminophen and Ibuprofen too. Nice not to have to shell out big bucks for each bottle.  Another good thing to have when camping is a supply of allergy medicine as we often encounter pollen and other substances that we normally aren't exposed to and which can cause unexpected allergic reactions.  Cough drops are useful if anyone gets a cold during an outing.  I like to stock up on multiple flavors to appeal to differing preferences in my family.  Antacids, like Tums, are good for the upset stomachs that often accompany too much picnicing.   Diet and meal patterns are often different than at home, so an anti-diarrheal medicine is a good thing to have around.  Since stuff in our RVs and camp kits often sit around a long time before being used it is also nice not have a large investment in disposable items that may have to be thrown away before you use them up.  Because RVs don't always get used regularly medicines often have to be replaced periodically without being used up.  Fortunately, most medicines are good long after their official expiration dates, but if you have any concerns, it is inexpensive to replace them at Dollar Tree and maintain peace of mind.  I have found surprising number of different types and sizes of bandages and medical tape.  And I keep a tube or two of Superglue in every one of my first aid kits.  Superglue is almost the same thing as pharmaceutical grade "Dermabond", but a lot cheaper, especially when you get it at Dollar Tree.  In use it may sting a bit more than real Dermabond, but it will essentially work just as well at holding small wounds together.  And it bonds instantly to skin.  I've heard it will sting a bit more than Dermabond, but since I've never used Dermabond I can only attest to the very satisfactory performance of Superglue.  I find the little "single use" tubes particularly good for first aid.  I once got a bone-deep cut on one of m little fingers when it got caught between a trailer hitch and a bumper.  We washed it out with alcohol and stuck it together with Superglue.  In a few days it had healed and barely left any scar.   That was several years ago and today there is no trace of the injury left at all.  You will often find pocket sized first aid kits at your dollar store.  I like to stock up on these so that everyone in my family always has a basic first aid kit in their pack or pocket and I can share them with guests.  You aren't going to handle major injuries with a little pocket first aid kit but they are perfect for the many smaller tasks that often pop up during outdoor activities.  Things like slivers, little cuts, blisters, insect bites and small burns are all too common when camping.  Since we seldom get to do as much camping as we would like to do, it is nice to have an inexpensive source for restocking expired provisions.

You can  usually find an assortment of bandaids and other bandages at Dollar Tree.   This is a very inexpensive way to restock or supplement your first aid kit.   They often  have individual pocket-sized first aid kits that are really handy for outdoor activities.  If you have small children or grandchildren some of the cutesy cartoon characters, camofluage,  or Star Wars bandaids are always a hit.  I once even found some antibacterical bandaids which were treated with silver nitrate at Dollar Tree.  I stock up on individual first aid kits quite regularly and make sure everyone in my family has an up-to-date one in their fanny pack tool kit on their dirt bikes.

I often find bandanas at Dollar Tree.  There are easily dozens of uses for a bandana when camping, ranging from fashion to first aid.  You can review some of them on my bandana post.

Kitchen utensils are another group of things that I have found frequently suffer from abuse or loss during camping trips.  Items from a dollar store may not be restaurant quality but I find they usually at least match things I buy at grocery and department stores and, once again, the low cost makes them cheap and easy to replace when they get ruined or go missing while camping.  The low cost also means it is economical to bring along duplicates if you have room.  We've found it is often very nice to have extra spatula or serving spoon.   The plastic or wooden handles on cheap utensils are easily damaged in a campfire but  I've even found sturdy all stainless steel items that are perfect for camping.  My wife liked my camping ladle so well she commandeered it for the kitchen at home and I had to look for another one.  Light weight pots and pans sometimes show up at Dollar Tree and they would be OK for your RV or camp stove but I wouldn't want to use them on a campfire.  The kitchen section is also a good source for dish towels and hot pads.  BTW, I've found the concentrated version of dish soap to be perfect for camping.  The smaller size takes up less room in camping tubs or RV cabinets and the concentrated form seems to work better.

There are usually a good selection of toiletries and sundries, which allows me to stock up for camping and have enough for my whole group and to share with fellow campers should the opportunity arise.  The only downside is that with the cost so low it is easy to OVER buy for my family, but at least everyone has the products they like to use.  I encourage using things like combination shampoo/conditioner to minimize RV bathroom clutter.  Or go even one better, and get the 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash.  Not only do these combo products save space in your RV or camp kit, they help you conserve water since you don't have to separately rinse out shampoo and conditioner.

Dollar stores usually have a fairly large selection of beauty products -- combs, brushes, nail clippers, nail files, chapstick, etc. making it very inexpensive to stock up on what you and your family might need in your RV or camp kit.  Sure, you can just bring your shaving kit or toiletries bag from  home, but having everything stocked for your outings make it more convenient and you are less likely to forget something you need before the outing is over.  Sometimes these items might not be quite the quality of department store or brand name items, but they usually more than adequate for camping outings, giving you many options without risking the more expensive ones you use at home.

The "Soft Lines" section often includes socks, knit gloves, knit caps, t-shirts, and other expendable items you might use on camping trips.   Once again, these are especially handy to have for kids and as loaners.  I  found the little, stretchy knit gloves worked well for glove liners for my dirt bike gloves on cold days, and they are a whole lot cheaper than commercial glove liners.  Who cares if they're Playboy pink or baby blue!  Cheap T-shirts are always handy for work shirts.  I even found some with pockets which makes them especially useful!  Ball caps are handy to keep the sun out of your eyes on outings and for just a buck each you aren't out much if you lose one.

The hardware selection usually includes a few small hand tools and car care products.  The tools may not be professional quality, but are often quite adequate for the light use they will get when camping and the low price makes them very affordable.  And, should they break or get lost, you're not out a lot of money.  Low price also lets you get as may as you need to have them at all the places you will need them.  Convenience is valuable when camping.  And, when I lend out tools from Dollar Tree I don't have to worry if they don't come back.

Inexpensive toys for camping can be a real boon to young families.  It is also gives grandparents a way to stock up on things to entertain their grand kids during an outing or a visit.  Things like sidewalk chalk and squirt guns appeal to kids of all ages.  Same with glow sticks, necklaces, and bracelets, which are fun for after dark activities.  Even adults enjoy cooling down on a summer afternoon with a "Supersoaker" squirt gun fight.  And the dollar store lets you arm your whole army without a big price tag and the low cost pretty much eliminates worry over them getting lost or damaged, which are both frequent occurrences with any group of active youngsters.  The variety of crayons, colored pencils, and colored markers along with coloring books and pads of various sizes can provide hours of entertainment for the budding artists in your group.  You can usually find a variety of simple games as well as other basic toys to keep the little ones busy.   A bunch of  art supplies and indoor games are especially nice to have  for kids of all ages on rainy days in camp.

Flashlights and batteries are always good to have in camp.  While I do enjoy using my sturdy aircraft aluminum Maglite, inexpensive plastic flashlights and LED lights from the Dollar Tree are really nice to have on hand for children and as loaners.  The low cost batteries may not last as long as higher priced brand names but since they spend so much time in storage in RVs and camping kits it is good not to tie up a lot of money and have them go bad and the low price lets me have an adequate supply of replacements for every application for each and every trip.  I've used small Dollar Tree LED flashlights in my tool kit on my dirt bike we great success.  They are sturdy aluminum construction, are light weight, and have endured 100s of miles of bumpy trails in my dirt bike tool kit.  The low cost allows me to stash little flashlights wherever they might be needed for added convenience in my RV, camper, tool box, motorcycle trailer, back pack, and fanny pack.  The batteries from dollar stores might not be the highest quality or longest lasting, but I've found the low price makes it possible to maintain a good back stock of batteries in my RV, boat, and camping kits without investing a lot of money.  I was really happy when I discovered some small solar lanterns at Dollar Tree.  Just wish they had them all the time.  Next time I find them I will definitely stock up!

Some people (including you and me) might be kind of choosy about tools and hardware, but low cost might allow you to supplement your tool box and spare parts with little investment and you don't have to worry about losing your good stuff.  I frequently find little items, like razor knives (3 for $1.00), that are handy to have in my camp kit and my tool box at home.  I would not be likely to pay normal retail for them for such occasional use, but being able to have them at a reasonable price often makes many tasks around camp easier and more fun.  It also allows me to duplicate some hand tools so I can them where I frequently use them instead of having to always go back to my tool box when I need something.    An extra screwdriver and/or pair of pliers tucked into a pocket or pack can be very handy.  And they don't have to be heavy duty, professional quality, precision items for occasional light use around camp or on the trail.  I've even picked up rolls of wire that is perfect for wiring hand grips on OHVs, sometimes getting 3 rolls of different colored wire for $1.00!   Nice to have options if you're sensitive to color coordinating things on your ride.   BTW, you'll find that a pair of specialized wire-tie or "safety wire" pliers will make that task pretty easy and kind of fun, but you probably won't find them at your dollar store.  Try your favorite OHV or auto supply store.  They can be a bit pricey.  I've seen them from $30 to $385!  One of the best deals I found was two pair (6" and 9") plus some wire on ebay for $31.99.  Wire tie pliers have a locking mechanism to hold the wire secure while twisting it with a special built in spinner as you pull on the pliers.   It will pull the wires nice and tight and lock them securely in place with a very tight, neat twist.  But go easy.  It is way to easy too twist the wires off and then you have to start over.  You might want to practice a few times before relying on the technique to secure the new handgrips on your OHV.

Solar walkway lights from Dollar Tree can often be adapted for use as tent and campground lights.  Remove the ground stake and add a hanger to use it as a tent light or stick the ground stake into a can or jar partially filled with rice, beans, or pebbles or into an inverted flower pot to use it on your picnic table. Solar lights are also useful for illuminating tent pegs and poles so you can avoid tripping over them at night.  A solar walkway light on either side of your RV step makes it easy to find in the dark.  LED "tap" lights are an easy way to add lights to cabinets and closets or under the hood for checking your oil.  I've also seen them installed inside the lids of mason jars to turn them into little table-top lanterns.  Sometimes you can get some that were designed for kids that are very colorful and shaped like various animals.  They make good individual tent lights or bunk lights in an RV.  They provide sufficient illumination for individual needs without impinging too much on fellow campers and being battery powered they won't run down your RV or vehicle batteries,  especially useful around kids who often "forget" to turn off lights.  I have even found small LED tent lanterns at Dollar Tree a few times.

Having access to inexpensive products provides an opportunity to experiment with different things to find out what works best for you and what you like best.  Sometimes you will even find things in the toy aisle, like the foam tiles I used on my motorcycle trailer workbench.   If you get something you don't like, you've only wasted a dollar, which you might get back at your next garage sale!  I've found that particularly useful for kitchen utensils.  You can try out a variety of sizes and shapes.  Keep what you like working with and put the others in your next garage sale or donate them to your favorite charity.  If all else fails, you can throw them away without feeling guilty about having wasted a lot money on them.

There are a few things that might be kind of deceiving at dollar stores.  It is often tempting to buy plates and other tableware or glassware at only $1.00 each.   But doing that you could spend $32 for complete place settings for 8 when you may be able to buy a complete set at a department store for around $24.  Same with silverware.  $1.00 each is a good price to replace a couple of lost or damaged pieces, but if you need a full set you will probably get a better deal somewhere else.  A full service or 8 would run at least $24-32 and you can usually get a full set at a department store around $20 or so.  Being able to buy replacements for $1.00 when you need them can still be helpful.  I read somewhere that plastic bags, like sandwich bags and freezer bags at dollar stores come in such small quantities that the per item price is higher than it would be at your local grocery store.  However, sometimes being able to purchase the smaller quantities as needed helps the cash flow and might be just what you need for camping and the smaller sizes might actually fit better in RVs and camp kits.

The only warning I feel I must share is to avoid over spending!   It is really easy to justify just about any individual item since it is "only a dollar".  I find that even when I drop in to pick up just a couple of very specific items, I typically end up with about $27 worth of stuff in my basket or cart by the time I get to the register.  With that in mind I figure I'm being frugal any time my total is less than $27 at checkout.  As long as you really want or will actually use your purchases, what you spend shouldn't be a problem.  But do be aware that you might rationalize rather emotional, spontaneous purchases of items you might be more reluctant to purchase at higher prices.  After all "its only a dollar!".  It is really easy to accumulate a whole lot of those $1.00 items!  That being said, I very seldom if ever regret having spent "only a dollar"

My local Dollar Tree recently changed most of their prices to $1.25!  A sudden increase of 25% on everything seems a bit much to me, although I understand that their costs have been going up and they have held their $1.00 price for nearly 3 decades!  However, even at $1.25, most Dollar Tree items are still a pretty goo bargain.  I haven't stopped shopping at Dollar Tree, but I am a little more conservative in my purchases these days.

Happy Shopping!

The Rule of Threes -- Survival

The Rule of Threes is a basic concept for survival.  It applies mostly in disaster situations and in wilderness survival situations.  It is a good way to help prioritize your activities when in survival mode.

Simply put, you can live 3 minutes without air, 3 hours without shelter (in an inhospitable climate), 3 days without water, and 3 weeks without food.   Use the "Rule of Threes" to help you prioritize  your activities in an emergency situation.   In a disaster situation where you have victims injured by falling debris or from falling down (e.g.,  earthquake, tornado, mudslide, avalanche, building collapse) they may run out of air or their injuries may have stopped their breathing.  You will need to clear their airway within 3 minutes and, if they don't start breathing on their own, begin CPR.  If you find yourself stranded in an inhospitable environment (cold and wet or very hot), you will need to seek shelter or you will be likely to die with 3 hours.  If it is cold and wet you will need to find someplace warm and dry.  If it is hot you will need to seek shade and ways to remain cool.  If you are in a mild climate, shelter may not be such an urgent need, but you still need to protect yourself against exposure to the elements.  Water will be your next priority.  You can live only about 3 days without water. You will being to feel the affects of dehydration much sooner than that and will want to find water as soon as possible.  In hot weather you may not even last 3 days without water.  Most people will be able to survive about 3 weeks without food.  If you are particularly thin or have medical conditions that are sensitive to what you eat (like diabetes or hypoglycemia) you may experience difficulties much sooner.  If you have any such conditions you should take steps to ensure you always have timely access to necessary nutrition.    Your body fat reserves may affect how quickly you experience dehydration problems too.  Especially thin people may feel the effects of lack of water fasting before the end of the 3 days.  People with extra fat reserves may be able to last longer than the predicted 3 days.  While you can survive for about 3 weeks without food, you will begin to suffer the affects much sooner so it is a good idea to seek nutrition early in a survival situation.  Without food your body will begin to tap into your fat reserves and you will find  yourself low on energy and discover it is hard to think straight long before the 3 weeks is up.  Ever get a "hunger headache"?  Sometimes you only need to miss a meal or two before one strikes.  And that's nothing compared to the brain fog that can impair your thinking in a survival situation when you go too long without any nutrition.  Your nutrition options in  survival mode may not be up to your normal standards, but you may have to swallow your pride, along with some normally unpleasant food, in order to sustain yourself.  Most of us would find eating bugs revolting, but, if you've every watched Surviorman, you will know that some bugs can be a gourmet meal when you are starving.

Knowing you can go three days without water doesn't mean you should.   You will begin to suffer the effects of dehydration long before that.  Not only are they unpleasant and painful, they will inhibit both your physical and mental ability to take care of yourself.  The same is true of food.  In a survival situation you will want to start finding something to eat as soon as you can.  Although you can live weeks without food, you will quickly loose strength, energy, and clear thought you need to survive.   The whole point of the Rule of Threes is to help you prioritize your activities so maximize your chances of survival.

In a survival situation where you are deprived of proper food and water, people often mistake thirst for hunger and waste time seeking food when what they really need to survive and thrive, is water.  Remembering the Rule of Threes may help you focus your energies on what is most needed.

Knowing the Rule of Threes will help you prioritize your actions in an emergency situation.  Otherwise, you might react to being thirsty or hungry and spend time looking for food and water and ignore the need for shelter until it is too late.

Threes a charm!

 

Winter Camping At Home -- Say What?

In most of the colder parts of the country, winter means storing our RVs and camping gear and holing up in front of  a cozy fireplace until the warm weather returns.  Those in the sunbelt can continue to enjoy outdoor pursuits.  When we lived in southern California even New Years Day was an opportunity for RVing and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  Not likely that is going to happen here in Utah!  So why the heck would anyone what to do any winter camping at home?

One big advantage to winter camping at home is you don't have far to go to recover if anything goes wrong.  Just as we've often suggested driveway or backyard "outings" as a way to develop your skills and get used to your equipment, you can use them for winter preparations as well.  If you should run into trouble, like say running out of propane, you can just go back inside to keep warm whereas, if you had a problem in a remote location you might not have any convenient way of handling the issue(s) and may experience a considerable amount of discomfort  -- or even get sick or die -- before you could recover.  Winter camping at home is a good way to make sure you are prepared before you try any remote winter camping.

If you have an RV you store at home during the winter you might consider spending a night or two in it just for fun, to maintain your familiarity with systems and supplies, and to keep your equipment in peak operating condition.  We did that in our truck camper when the onset of winter sneaked up on us before we could take it out for a shakedown cruise.  If you're in freezing weather you won't want to use any of the water or sewer systems, but you can still test out the furnace and determine if the bedding is adequate for cold nights.  And you could cook and eat in the RV.  Just be sure to take all the dishes back into the house to wash them.  Using your RV systems periodically while in storage is actually good for them.  Run the generator for an hour so two.  Disuse is one of the hardest things on equipment.

Our motorhome and camper have both served as extra guest rooms when we've had family visiting at Christmas on a number of occasions.  We had to educate our guests that there was no water and to not use the toilet, but otherwise they were quite warm and comfortable and enjoyed more privacy than they might have had crammed inside the house with other guests.  The grandkids especially liked staying in an RV.  If you live in the sunbelt where winterization isn't necessary, using the RV is even more convenient since they can use the water based systems.  You may be able to use the water based systems if your RVs are properly prepared for it and you exercise proper procedures.  You may need holding tank heaters to keep fresh and waste water tanks and lines from freezing.

Winter opportunities for tent campers are more limited but still possible.  You may have to set up your tent in the snow, but even that can be surprisingly comfortable if you are prepared for it.  If that doesn't appeal to you and your family you might resort to setting up your tent in the garage or an outbuilding.  I've noticed that the temperature inside my garage is typically in the mid 40s even when the outside temperature is in the teens.  I've read that even just having a roof over your head can raise the temperature 20°F, which is often enough to prevent freezing of RV water lines etc.  A barn, shed, or greenhouse could also provide a temperate location for setting up a winter tent.  One of our kids and her family set up a tent in our barn during a Christmas visit in Utah a few years ago.

I've even seen folks set up dome tents in their family rooms and living rooms for the kids for a fun night or two and there is no reason that couldn't be done by kids of ALL ages.  You'll need a self standing tent, not one that needs stakes and guy ropes.  If don't have a self-standing tent you might get by setting up a 2x4 frame around your tent to fasten loops and guy lines to since you can't drive stakes into your floor.

Practicing your winter camping skills could turn out be more than just a fun diversion.  If you should experience a long term power outage during the winter, being able to  move into your RV or set up your tent in your living room might be your best way to survive.  The threat of long term power outages grows stronger every day.  Not only are we now facing possible outages from a strong EMP from solar activity, the terrorist organization ISIS is reportedly actively planning ways to disable the US power grid.  Many people aren't aware of just how vulnerable the power grid is nor how long it would take to replace damaged transformers and restore power.  It would likely be years!  Recent estimates I've read say that disabling as few as 9 key substations would disable the entire US power grid for a year and a half.

Practicing your campfire skills can also be fun in winter.   Gathering around a blazing fire is a good way to ward off the chill of winter activities.  Just having a campfire in your snowy backyard can be fun.  Campfires may also become critical for cooking and hygiene during an extended emergency so it is good practice to try it out before you need it in an emergency.

Be cool and keep warm!

Blowouts!

While a "blowout" sale is usually a good thing, having a tire blow out on your RV, OHV, or tow vehicle certainly is not.  Blowouts can cause serious damage as pieces of the fragmented tire slam into parts of the vehicle or friction heats things up and causes a fire.  I've had motorhome and trailer tires blow out a few times, and it is never a pleasant or inexpensive proposition.  After a tire blew out on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I discovered it was likely caused by a failed magnet in the electric brakes that had locked up the brakes and made the tire drag.  In addition to the tire itself, it destroyed the wheel and the fender skirt and the collapse of the tire allowed the entry step to hit the ground and get bent way beyond repair.  Same with the pricey electric tongue jack.  The leaf spring on that side was also damaged.  I had to replace both springs and both brakes (springs and brakes should always be replaced in pairs).  I was unable to find a matching fender skirt so I had to replace the skirts on both sides to maintain a consistent appearance.  By the time all was said and done the total bill came to about $1200 from a single blowout.  A tire failure on an OHV can create handling problems sever enough to cause you to loose control.

I had a nearly new right front tire blow out on a class A motorhome on one trip.   I discovered the cause of the failure was a new valve extension installed by the tire shop.  The technician there had claimed the braided stainless steel extensions I had been using were prone to failure and talked me into installing solid semi-truck style extensions.  Unfortunately, the new extension he installed rubbed against the wheel cover until it wore a hole in it and allowed all the air to leak out of the tire.  The flapping of the exploded tire ripped out all the wiring for the lights (headlight, park light, and turn signal) and destroyed the outside cabinet behind the wheel well.  We gathered up the scattered contents of the shattered cabinet and avoided driving after dark until I could re-wire the lights.  Then I had to rebuild the cabinet when I got home.

The loss of a left rear inside dual on a 40' diesel pusher managed to damage the primary plumbing near the water pump adjacent to the wheel well.  All my fresh water leaked out and I couldn't even use park hook ups until I was able to repair the broken pipe.  I never did figure out what caused that particular tire failure.  The tire had been in good condition at the start of the trip and I religiously check tire pressure every morning before hitting the road.  I suspect it may have been damaged by some kind of debris on the road.  You never know when you'll pick up a stray nail somewhere.    BTW, straight nails seldom cause problems but bent ones frequently penetrate tires.

Way too many blowouts are simply a result of under inflation.  A soft tire will quickly overheat and together with the stress of excessive flexing of the sidewalls will soon fail under highway conditions.  Under inflation can usually be avoided by simply checking tire pressure regularly.  Under inflated tires will usually look "squishy" and will be hotter than properly inflated tires after driving.  They will also wear excessively on the outside edges.  Under inflated tires may show excessive wear on both edges of the tire.  Whenever you discover an under inflated tire, bring it up to the correct pressure as soon as possible.  However, driving on an under inflated tire will sometimes have already caused enough internal damage that the tire has been weakened and will fail prematurely.  The best way to ensure proper inflation is to check tire pressure with an accurate gauge.  Truckers and some RVers will use a "tire thumper" as a way to quickly see if tire pressure is approximately where it should be.  Soft tires will give off a dull thump instead of a sharp thud and an experienced driver can usually feel as well as hear the difference when the thumper strikes the tire. 

Over inflation isn't good either, but it usually doesn't cause the rapid and catastrophic failures associated with under inflation.   Over inflated tires will cause handling and ride problems, making the vehicle feel skittish and the ride harsh.  Over inflated tires will show excessive wear in the center of the tread.  Driving on overinflated tires too long could cause the tread in the center to wear enough to cause a blowout.

Proper inflation also contributes to better gas mileage and good handling.  Under-inflated tires have more rolling resistance and will make handling soft and mushy.  Over-inflation will reduce traction and make a vehicle feel "squirrely".

Overloading is another common cause of tire failures.  Some large motorhomes are very close to the maximum chassis and/or tire rating as they come from the factory so it is all too easy to over load them with passengers and equipment.  If you suspect your vehicle is overloaded, take it to a truck scale and weight each individual wheel. Knowing the weight on each wheel will allow you to set the right tire pressure for the load.

Dragging trailers brakes can also cause tire failures.  If trailer tires get unusually hot when towing the brakes may be dragging and should be inspected and adjusted.  Sometimes the problem is that the brake controller in the tow vehicle is maladjusted and that isn't really an equipment failure, it is an operator error.

Failed suspension components can put inappropriate stress on tires.  Weak or broken springs and/or shocks can stress tires and sometimes either rub directly on the tire or allow it to rub on other parts of the fame or body.  If a vehicle sags more on one corner than the others or if a wheel seems to be leaning or the body appears to be lower than it should be you should have the suspension checked.  Worn, bent, or broken suspension can not only cause tire failures but could cause a loss of control that may result in a serious accident.

A blowout on a motorhome is usually very apparent the instant it happens but drivers of tow vehicles are not always immediately aware of tire failures on trailers.   A few years ago an older couple pulling a travel trailer through Idaho and Washington failed to notice a flat tire on the trailer.  Flaming debris from the dragging tire ignited several wildfires along their route.  How can a driver not notice a flat tire?  A flat on the vehicle you are driving is usually pretty obvious, but one on a trailer can be well disguised, especially if the trailer is relatively small compared to the weight and power of the tow vehicle.  The driver of a 40' motorhome pulling a little 15' utility trailer probably won't feel anything if a trailer tire blows out.  However, he should be able to see the trailer leaning when he checks his rear view mirrors or back up camera and you may see smoke, dust, or sparks from dragging components.  You should frequently monitor the attitude of your trailer when towing. 

If you do experience a blowout, DON'T jam on the brakes!   Keep a strong grip on the steering wheel and slowing gradually,  pull over out of traffic, allowing the vehicle to slow, using the brakes as little as possible.  Jamming on the brakes can cause a sudden grabbing of the damaged tire and wheel, resulting in an unexpected change of direction and/or loss of control. If you lose a front tire you may be able to slow down using the hand or emergency brake which usually activates the rear brakes or a special brake on the drive shaft on some vehicles.

Blowouts on OHVs are perhaps a little less frequent than on highway vehicles, but they can still happen.  Most of the OHV blowouts I've seen have been due to a sudden impact with a hard obstacle.  Normal OHV operation usually doesn't generate the kind of heat that highway driving does and heat is often a significant factor in highway blowouts.  But, if you like to jump your dirt bike or ATV, figure one of these days you will come down hard enough to pop a tire.  An a dirt bike that usually means limping back to camp on a flat tire.  For ATVs and UTVs often means either removing the damaged wheel(s) and taking them back to camp or bringing replacements out before you can reasonably move the vehicle.  So, if you're doing any serious jumping, prepare yourself for the time when you blow out a tire upon landing.  There isn't much you can do except try to control the little beast and get it safely stopped as soon as possible.  Driving on a blown tire may damage fenders and suspension as the tire comes apart from the pounding.

Smooth motoring!

Dealing With Flooded Camp Sites

Noah had advance warning and considerable time to prepare for The Flood.  Also some expert advice!  When we're camping, we usually don't get much advance warning.  In fact, if we knew bad weather was coming we probably wouldn't be camping in the first place. While completely avoiding situations where your camp site might get flooded is certainly the best approach, there may be times when you get caught in flood waters in spite of your best efforts.  Flash floods can hit from rain many miles away.

If you select your camp sites properly, you shouldn't have any problems with flooding.  But sometimes your options are limited.  Given a choice, set up camp (tent or RV) on a slight rise so that any water that may arrive doesn't flow under your RV or into your tent.  Never set up camp in a dry wash or a deep depression if there is any chance of rain.  Even if the rain is many miles away, flood waters may rush down dry washes with surprising force and speed.  Always avoid RV camping or parking on marshy ground where vehicles can sink in.  If the ground is already soft, a sudden rain can nearly liquify it, allowing tires and leveling jacks to sink deep into the mud and making it very difficult or perhaps even impossible to drive out  Getting towed out of a situation like that can be very expensive.  I've even seen would-be rescuers get stuck and have to towed out, greatly multiplying the frustration, delay, and expense.  In some places even extremely hard ground can get surprisingly soft when it rains.  I've seen places where rocks that were so gripped by the hard dirt around them when dry that a pick broke trying to dig them out, but the same rocks sank out of sight when stepped on after a moderate rain!  Marshy ground isn't a good place to set up your tent either.  Pegs are likely to pull loose and you will probably get a lot of water wicking up through the floor unless you have a really good ground cloth. 

I got surprised by flooding during one desert camp out.  We were on solid, gravely ground that was fairly level and we were in a frequently used parking area, not in a depression, sand wash or dry creek bed.  And, we were in the desert!  Even so, heavy rains one evening delivered water rushing down off the nearby hills and under and around our RV, bringing with it enough silt that our grass patio mat had disappeared -- it was completely buried under about an inch of mud the next morning.   Basically the entire parking area was in the path of runoff from not too distant hills, turning it into a broad, shallow river.  Further analysis showed the only way to have avoided the problem would have been to camp somewhere else entirely (i.e, totally different venue).  There was little we could do except do our best to avoid tracking mud into the motorhome, usually by leaving muddy shoes outside or just inside the door and wait for the sun to dry things out.  When we packed up at the end of the outing we shook as much mud and dirt off the grass mat as we could, then folded it up and stuffed in the back or our motorcycle trailer.  At home we hung in on a corral fence and used a power washer to restore it to usable condition.  We left it hanging on the fence and by the next day it was try enough to roll up and store back in its proper cabinet on the motorhome, clean and dry and ready to use again.

If you do get flooded out, sometimes your best bet it to just sit tight until the water recedes and the ground dries out enough for you to drive out.  Hopefully you won't be in water deep enough that it gets inside your RV, although that is a possibility if you are in a low enough spot and/or there is enough rain.  Attempting to exit over soft or flooded ground is likely to result in getting your vehicles thoroughly stuck.  If you must leave before things dry out, it is a good idea to walk the route you plan to take to see if there are any soft spots or unexpected obsctacles, or drop offs.  Driving through flood waters isn't a good idea.  You can't see obstacles and are likely to find yourself and your vehicle in a worse situation than you started. Flood waters often bring boulders and other debris than wasn't there when you drove in, possibly creating severe hazards to driving out.   Driving through water can also get the brakes wet and you will have significantly reduced stopping power.  Wet surfaces have 50% or less friction than dry ones.

Dealing with a flooded camp site in a tent can be lot more devastating.   Had we been camping in tents instead of RVs when the above mentioned incident happened, it would have been our tents and sleeping bags instead of a grass mat that were buried in mud!  It is CRITICAL that tents be set up on high enough ground so they won't ever be in the path of rising water.  Finding "high ground" when camping in the desert can be difficult and options will be very limited when staying in developed campgrounds with assigned spaces.  Hopefully, developed campgrounds will have been properly engineered to drain properly without flooding the pads intended for tents.  In dispersed camping areas, try to find the highest spot you can, especially if there is any chance of rain.

Stay dry!

Covering Your RV

 

Unfortunately there is an off season for most recreational vehicles.  That means storing them, usually for several months at time between seasons.  All recreational vehicles (motorhomes, trailers, campers, boats, etc) need protection from sun and weather while in storage.  Leaving them unprotected invites premature fading, leaks, and corrosion.

Covering your RV to protect it from the elements is basically a good idea -- if its done right.  One of the best ways to protect an RV from summer sun and winter precipitation is to put it in a garage or under an RV "carport".  Next best is to use an RV cover made especially for the purpose.  Because RV covers are more expensive than blue polytarps, people will often opt to cover their RVs with tarps with some very unpleasant and unwanted consequences.  RV covers are made of a soft fabric that won't damage the moldings and finish on the RV.  Tarps have a rougher weave that over a single winter can polish the paint right off corner moldings and sometimes the sides of the RV itself.  RV covers are NOT waterproof.  They are water resistant and breathable.  While they protect the surface from the direct effects of precipitation, being breathable prevents them from trapping moisture inside the cover the way tarps can where it can eventually condense, causing surface damage and even saturating the walls and causing delamination.

RV Covers are available in standard sizes to fit most RVs.  That is the most economical way to go.  For added convenience, purchase a cover that is custom made for you RV.  It can be made with a zipper door that coincides exactly with your entry door for convenience in accessing the interior while it is in storage.  I found that the zipper on my off-the-shelf cover for my 36' Holiday Rambler motorhome was already in exactly the right place.

It is good to shade your RV during summer months to prevent sun damage and minimize heat buildup inside.  It protects the exterior finish and prevents sun damage to drapes and upholstery inside. Also use tire covers to protect the rubber from exposure that will speed deteriorization.  It is OK to shade your RV with a polytarp, just don't wrap it around the entire vehicle.  Hang it on a frame over the RV or use it to cover the roof only.  Avoid letting it come in contact with edges and corners where it can damage the surface.  Well placed plastic tubs can hold the tarp up off air conditioners and other accessories installed on the roof.

RVs usually need protection from precipitation (rain/snow) during winter months.  As mentioned above, the best protection is inside or under some kind of sturdy structure that will protect it from sun and from snow loads.  If that isn't feasible for you, invest in an RV cover.  Custom covers will fit best but are a bit pricey.  You can usually find a generic cover sized to closely fit most RVs.  RV covers are made from a soft,  breathable material that will not damage RV surfaces.   Custom covers usually have a zipper door to give you easy access to the entry door during storage.  Off the shelf covers probably won't have a zipper door or it may not be where you need it.  Covers should have straps to secure them under the RV or grommets where you can attach bungee cords or ropes to tie them down.  If you don't have to worry about freezing weather, an easy trick for holding down a cover is to tie it to one gallon plastic bleach or milk jugs that have been filled with water.  Since water weighs 8 lbs per gallon, each jug anchors its anchor point with 8 lbs of force.   Use several jugs all around to keep the cover from blowing off.  If you have to deal with freezing weather, secure the bottom of the cover to the bottom of the RV or to stakes driven into the ground.   In freezing weather, water filled jugs might split and as soon as it warms up all the water would leak out and there wouldn't be anything hold the cover down.  You might use inverted plastic bins spaced on top of the RV to create a uniform height and keep the cover above air conditioners, vents covers, and antennas.  If there are sharp corners, like on antennas or awning latches, cut a slit in a tennis ball and put it over the obstacle to prevent it from poking holes in your cover.   If the cover is in direct contact with somewhat narrow features like roof racks or the top of ladders, the cover may be damaged or worn through as the wind whips it over the obstacle.  Ladders and racks can be wrapped in bubble wrap or soft cloth (like an old blanket) to cushion them so they don't damage the cover.

It is advisable to use tire covers whenever the RV is in storage,  both summer and winter.  Tire covers are relatively expensive and a whole lot less expensive than tires.  I've seen folks cut a piece of plywood or OSB they can slip in the fender wells to shade tires.  This will keep them out of direct sunlight, which is the biggest threat, but it is better to use canvas or vinyl tire covers, which wrap around and  protect the tires from ozone as well as sunlight.

Cover up!

RV and Camper Toilets

OK, so RV Toilets isn't a very polite or palatable subject.  You might even ask, quite appropriately, who gives a crap?  However, there are several things newbies should know that will make life on the road -- and in camp -- more pleasant.

First of all, most RV toilets are not made of porcelain like home toilets.  They are made of plastic.  One reason for that is it makes them a lot lighter and saving weight in an RV is important.  However, that means they have special cleaning requirements.  You can usually use most liquid toilet cleaners safely  (although some may not be compatible with holding tank chemicals), but never use harsh cleansers which will mar the finish. Once scratched it is almost impossible to restore and will collect unpleasant deposits.  Use something liked a "Softscrub" cleanser,  Bon Ami ("Hasn't scratched yet"), Bar Keepers Friend, or a Mr Clean Magic Eraser for stubborn stains.  That said, there is an increasing tendency toward the use of porcelain toilets in RVs so you might come across one.  If you do, clean it as you would the one at home.

Although RV toilets look a lot like your toilet at home, there is one very major difference:  residential toilets use a lot of water for flushing (about 3 gallons in current models, up to 5 in some older ones).  RV toilets use very little water.  Conserving water is, of course, a good thing, but it does mean solid wastes sometimes pile up in the holding tank below the toilet if you don't use enough water when flushing.  If you notice this happening, you might want to draw a bucket  of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.  It will help to wash away piles of stuff, break down the accumulation, provide sufficient liquid for the holding tank chemicals to do their job breaking down waste, and help get enough liquid to flush the tanks when dumping them.  Since the bowl doesn't automatically fill like a residential toilet, you may want  to add more water before using the toilet so there is enough water to capture solids and reduce odors before the toilet is flushed.  That also helps make sure there is enough water being put into the black water holding tank.

One other major difference:  your residential toilet flushes into an essentially endless sewer system; your RV toilet flushes into a limited holding tank.  Unless there is a stoppage in your sewer at home you usually don't have to worry about things backing up.   Even septic tanks are usually large enough that you flushing a toilet won't cause a backup.  The limited holding tanks on RVs means you need to always be aware of the possibility of a back up in the holding tank.  With that in mind, it is prudent to make use of campground facilities whenever possible to reduce filling your holding tank,

When you flush an RV toilet, the water will keep running a little after you release the foot pedal and the valve closes.  This is not a malfunction.  It is designed to do that to leave about a half inch of water in the well in the bottom of the bowl to provide an air tight seal to prevent odors from the holding tank from escaping into the toilet -- and from there into the interior or the RV!  You can press the pedal down part way to add more water too.   You really only need about a half inch on top of the valve to provide an odor seal even when the vehicle is moving.  Adding more at this time is usually just a waste. 

The plastic lid and seat often becomes discolored over time.  Sometimes you can safely restore the appearance by cleaning plastic parts with vinegar or lemon juice.  Lemon juice has the advantage of leaving a more pleasant citrus fragrance.  It is unlikely a standard toilet set will fit an RV toilet.  If yours is damaged beyond repair, seek a matching replacement from your RV store or track one down in a junk yard.  There is really no reason you couldn't use a residential toilet seat if you can find one that fits.

To avoid stains sticking to the toilet bowl in the first place, always press down the flush pedal part way to run a little extra water in the bowl to wet the surface before using the toilet for solid waste. That will coat the walls of the bowl with water to minimize stuff sticking to the bowl.  Don't push the pedal down too far or you will open the valve and all the water will escape.  Then keep a toilet brush or a dowel handy to clean stains after use.  Use the dowel to swab the bowl with a little toilet paper.  That way you don't put smelly deposits on a brush that will be left sitting in a container behind the toilet.  You can simply flush the toilet paper.  I installed an old dirt bike hand grip for extra comfort on the 3/4' quarter round dowel we use in our RV.    The two square edges of the quarter round dowel grip the tissue and give a precision cleaning.  The grip gives you something to hold on to and prevents you from grabbing the dirty end if it falls over or someone puts it away up side down!

Some RV toilets have a sprayer like the one on your kitchen sink that you can use to aid in cleaning the bowl.   These get mixed reviews.  While the sprayer may add convenience to cleaning it sometimes encourages excessive water use and you have a couple more plumbing connections that might be prone to leak.  If your RV toilet doesn't have one and you REALLY want one, it can probably be added.  I decided it wouldn't be worth the cost.  Even now that I have an RV that came with one I still feel the same way.  I find it adds some convenience but it is too easy to waste water.  I use it occasionally but if my next RV doesn't have one I probably wouldn't miss it.  Even with the sprayer, it is usually faster and more effective to clean the bowl with a bit of toilet paper on a dowel as described above.

Don't put facial tissue in your RV toilet.  It will not break down as easily as toilet paper and can cause buildups and clogs that are difficult to remove when you dump the tanks and can block sensors so you don't get an accurate reading on your gauges. 

Speaking of toilet paper, it is said that it is best to use the toilet paper designed for RV toilets.  If you run out, use the cheapest and lightest weight paper you can find.  The fancier, multi-layer brands won't break down well and may contribute to clogs and difficulty dumping the black water tank.  Plain single ply is best.  If you have any question about whether a particular toilet paper is safe to use in your RV or what it will do, you can test it easily yourself.  Just put a couple of squares of toilet paper in a glass jar about half filled with water.  Shake it for a half minute or so.  It the paper breaks down, it will be OK.   To see what unacceptable paper will do, try the same test with an ordinary facial tissue like Kleenex.  It won't break down no matter how much you shake it.  Stuff like that will clog your black water system or porta-potty.

NEVER put disposable diapers or feminine hygiene products down an RV toilet.     Once again, these products won't break down in the holding tank and will cause clogs and bad odors.

Even so-called "flushable" wipes should NOT be flushed down an RV toilet.  They might be OK in residential sewer systems but are likely to clog RV holding tanks.  Standard sewer systems use significant amounts of water that are capable of moving things that would clog an RV holding tank.

Here's a tip for guys:  to avoid urine smell buildup around your RV toilet, sit down to urinate.  OK, so it may not be the most macho thing to do, so what?  Its private.  And it can keep things a lot nicer.  No matter how good your aim is, it still splatters and over time the residue from the mist builds up on cabinets, walls, and floors around the fixture.  You will also find it especially convenient for nocturnal trips when you don't want to turn on any lights.  Your female companions will definitely appreciate having a clean smelling bathroom.

You may have a tendency to limit water usage when flushing to conserve your fresh water.   While conserving fresh water is almost always a priority when boondocking, using too little water will create problems in the black water tank, ranging from th buildup of a pyramid of waste right below the toilet to not having enough liquid for the chemicals to their job or to flush the tank when the time comes.  You don't need extra water for liquids only, but it is essential when there are solids in the toilet,  It may take a little experimentation to determine the right balance between conservation and adequate flushing.  It is usually a lot easier to err on the side of using too much water and slowly backing down than having to deal with too much solids building up in the tank.  Too much water in the holding tank will not cause any problems with dumping, but too little definitely will.  The only problem with using too much water is using up your fresh water and filling your  holding tank when boondocking or when on the road.  Too little water also impedes the function of holding tank chemicals, which break down solid waste and control odor.  If you think you are short of water in the black water tank (as evidenced by piles of solids seen beneath the toilet when you flush it), try adding some extra water collected while warming up your shower or even draw a bucket  off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.  I have found that, in general, filling the bowl about half full before using the toilet provides enough liquids for proper operation but your experience may vary.

Odor control for an RV toilet is definitely a consideration.  Not only do you have the natural odors associated with its normal use, it can be a source of foul odors from the holding tank if not used properly.  To reduce odors from normal use, run a little extra water in the bowl by partially depressing the foot pedal before using.  Then make sure there is a little water left in the bottom of the bowl after you flush it. The water acts as an air-tight seal to prevent odors from sneaking past the closed flush valve.  You can also shoot a light spray of air freshener into the bowl and holding tank when you flush it.  But don't over do it.  There is no telling what effect the chemicals in the air freshener might have on the holding tank chemicals.  Speaking of holding tank chemicals, make sure you are always using sufficient holding tank chemicals for the condition of your tanks.  Read the label on your chemicals to find out how many gallons each treatment can handle and add more chemicals proportionately if your holding tanks are larger.  You may also need to add extra chemicals in hot weather as the heat tends to promote rapid and powerful odor build up.  Most RV bathrooms have a roof vent to allow odors to escape.  Many are equipped with a 12-volt fan to aid in evacuating toilet odors and shower humidity.  If your RV doesn't have a vent one can usually be added.  If you have a vent but no fan, a  fan can be added to an existing vent.  That is the simplest and most economical solution but for better air flow and quieter operation choose a Fantastic brand (or similar) power roof vent.  They have large (10") multi-blade fans that move a lot more air than the little 4", 4-blade standard add-on fans.  However, even the little add-on fans will help to some degree.  You will not want to leave the roof vent wide open when you are trying to either heat or cool your RV or when it is raining.  It is especially bad when heating because heat rises and the forced air furnace will push the hottest air in your RV out the vent, causing the furnace to have to work harder.  DO open the vent as needed for toilet use, but don't routinely leave it open.

You will sometimes get holding tank odors in your RV while driving.  The most common cause of this is driving with one or more windows open.  It creates a partial vacuum which literally sucks odors out of your holding tank.  Sometimes odors are drawn back in from the standard roof vent.  There are some after-market holding tank vent "caps" that help dispel odors and prevent them from being drawn back into your RV.  The standard vent cap is just a plastic cap that is a bit larger than the pipe so air can escape.  One of the upgraded caps is designed aerodynamically so it swings into the wind (natural or from driving) to ensure the odors are pulled up and out and directed safely away. These upgraded caps usually cost around $25 and an be generally be installed by a competent do-it-yourselfer and are well worth the investment!

Air fresheners are a common remedy for bathroom odors.  You can usually find a variety of scents at your local Dollar Tree so they don't have to be expensive and you can experiment to see what scent you like best.  When ever using an air freshener, use it sparingly.  You don't want the mist to settle on everything.  Over-use of air fresheners often creates an odor combination that is more offensive than the original holding tank odor.  Think of a strong floral scent blended with sewer smell!  Yuck!

Some smaller RVs, like tent trailers, may have a portable toilet.  Most of what has been said about RV toilets applies to porta-pottys as well.  So, if keep that in mind if you are using a porta-potty in your small RV, tent, or boat.

Enjoy your RV "throne".