Tent Flooring

Most tents these days, except pup tents and military "shelter halves", have sewn in floors.  Having a sewn in floor helps maintain the shape of the footprint of the tent and prevents drafts and critters from slithering inside when the door is zipped closed.  However, tent floors are generally not very sturdy nor completely waterproof so you always benefit from using a good ground cloth beneath your tent.  I like to use one inside my tent too.  A ground cloth beneath your tent will help protect the floor from debris and moisture.  One inside the tent helps protect the floor from damage from walking on it or setting heavy objects on it and gives you and your sleeping bags extra protection against ground moisture.  I've seen oversize outside ground cloths carelessly installed such that moisture dripping of the tent was caught on the top of the ground cloth and ran under the tent, largely defeating one of its major purposes.  If you use a ground cloth beneath your tent, make sure it doesn't extend beyond the tent walls.  One common practice among tent campers is to dig a small trench around the outside of the tent to collect any water that runs off, but that isn't always practical.  You won't want to trench around your tent when it is pitched on your lawn or the grass in a campground.

Many tents have floors made of the same light weight material as the walls and roof.  That might be good in a back packing tent where weight is a primary concern, but for larger family tents used for car camping having a sturdier floor will usually yield better protection and last longer, if you can find one with a sturdier floor.   Some tents do have sturdier "bath tub"floors.  Some I have seen appear to be better at retaining water that leaks through the tent than in keeping ground water out!   For the most part you'll still need to add ground cloths to get the extra protection you need.

Most dome tents have built in floors.  Some larger cabin tents might not.  Regardless of what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you will want to put down a ground cloth under your tent.  If it has a sewn in floor the ground cloth will protect the fabric from being damaged by rocks, twigs, and other debris.  If it doesn't have a floor at all, the ground cloth becomes the floor.  I like to use two ground cloths -- one under the tent to protect the floor from debris and one inside the tent to protect the floor from walking on it.  Having two ground cloths also helps prevent any moisture from coming through and soaking your sleeping bags or clothing and equipment left on the tent floor.

No matter what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you'll want to prepare the ground before you set up your tent.  Remove rocks, twigs, and other debris that might damage the tent or be uncomfortable to walk on or sleep on.  A leaf rake with a collapsible handle is a good tool for clearing the ground.  You might need a shovel to smooth out lumps in the dirt.  Try to avoid damp places that will let moisture accumulate under your tent or seep inside.  An ideal spot for a tent would be one that is a few inches higher than the surrounding ground so that rain or dew will drain away and not under the tent.  Grassy areas make a soft pad beneath your tent, but leaving a tent set up on grass for more than a day or so will kill the grass underneath it.  Sometimes you will notice the grass is wilted and starting to turn yellow after taking down a tent that has only been set up for a few hours.  Grass itself contains moisture that can condense on the underside of the tent floor and might wick through.

For a really luxurious tent floor cover the floor with foam "anti-fatigue" foam tiles like are normally used in front of a workbench.  They come in 2'x2' squares, are about 1/2" thick, and connect together like pieces of a jig saw puzzle.    They usually come in sets of 4 so yo may need multiple sets to cover the entire tent floor.  For example, you'll need 10 sets of 4 to cover the entire floor of an 8'x10' tent.  That could cost around $75 but if you watch for sales at home centers or Harbor Freight you and sometimes get them for $5-10 a set, bringing the cost down to as little as $50.  They will protect the floor, give an extra buffer against cold, damp ground, and provide extra padding for sleeping comfort.  You could use them beneath your tent to protect the floor from debris on the ground but I prefer using them inside where they protect the floor from items in the tent poking through.  Having them inside also keeps them cleaner, making it easier to pack them up and use them again.  Here is what to look for in your favorite home center:
 
If you don't care for the industrial look of the standard gray-black mats you can usually find brightly colored ones at home centers.  You might pay a little more for them but they will not look so industrial and might be more fun to use.



If your tent isn't an even multiple of 2' in any direction they can be easily cut to size.  They are light weight but a little bit bulky.  You won't want to take them back packing, but they can add level of comfort in base camp and when car camping. Here are some examples of the standard industrial grey/black color and brightly colored versions you can usually find at home centers.  You'll pay a little more for the colored ones, but the mood boosting contribution of the colors may be well worth the additional cost, especially if your spouse has a penchant for color coordination or interior decorating.

As in the colored tiles above, sometimes the foam tiles have straight finished edges but many have interlocking nubs all around like the grey tiles in the picture above the colored tiles.  Sometimes they come with edges that lock into the nubs to give a finished straight edge.  If not, you can still use them as-is or cut the nubs off the outside edges.

Just about any tarp can be used as a ground cloth outside or inside the tent for an extra layer of protection.  The heavier the tarp, the more protection.  A sturdy canvas tarp will provide stronger resistance to damage from rocks or sticks beneath the tent, but may be heavier to carry and stiffer to lay out.  Light weight blue "poly tarps" are better than nothing, but the heavier silver tarps or green "farm" tarps will be sturdier and last longer.  Try to match the size as closely as possible to the footprint of the tent.  If it is too large it can be folded under so it doesn't trap moisture running down the sides of the tent.  If it is too small you may have exposed edges where debris can still damage your tent floor and expose you and your equipment to the cold, camp ground. One that is just an inch or so smaller than the base of the tent should be just about right.

More on ground cloths.  The sturdier the material, the better.  Light weight "poly" tarps are inexpensive and are definitely better than nothing, but a heavier, canvas tarp will provide more protection.  When putting a ground cloth beneath your tent make sure it doesn't extend beyond the edges of the tent.  If it does, rain or dew dripping off the tent will collect on top of the ground cloth under your tent effectively negating one of the main purposes for using a ground cloth.  As I mentioned before, I like to use a second ground cloth inside my tent to ensure my sleeping bags and other gear stays dry.  It will also protect the sewn in floor against damage from walking on it and from items dropped on it.   If you have one heavy tarp and one light one, use the heavy one beneath the tent and the lighter one inside.  If you're camped where it won't damage the grass, dig a shallow trench around the outside of your tent to catch any moisture that runs off and channel it away so it doesn't seep under your tent.

Keeping the floor clean.  You can minimize damage from walking on your tent floor by keep it clean.  Tracking mud and other debris inside deposits stuff that can grind into the fabric and cut the fibers.  Use a rug or an old burlap bag outside the door to clean your feet before entering.  Sweep out your tent at least daily.  When I'm using a dome tent, I usually pick it up and shake out all the dirt when I get up each morning unless it is staked down.  If you have a cabin tent or your dome tent is securely staked down, sweep it out.  There are small "camping" brooms made just for the purpose or you can cut down a regular broom or use a whisk broom.  The shorter handle is usually necessary because of limited height inside smaller tents and it makes it easier to transport it.  Whisk brooms or shop bench brushes can also be used but will require a lot more bending over, which can be hard on your back.

Floor it!

RV Flooring

You will find lots of different types of flooring in RVs.  For many years most motorhomes were mostly carpeted throughout.  While this provides extra insulation to keep the floor cool in summer and warm in winter and helps suppress road noise, carpet isn't always the optimal floor covering in galley and bathroom areas where it can become easily (and often permanently) soiled and stained.  Light weight laminate flooring and vinyl are good options for these areas.  Some high end RVs are even opting for ceramic tile.  Sure, it looks very good and adds a touch of class, but it is quite heavy and brittle.  I haven't seen enough of it yet to decide how it will stand up to the stress of vibration and tweaking during travel.  Vinyl and laminates are flexible enough that it isn't a problem.

If you have worn or faded carpeting in your RV, you can replace it.  You may want to have it professionally installed to ensure it is properly stretched so it fits snugly although you may be able to fit it your self in small areas.  If your carpet is still in fairly good shape but merely stained or faded or you want to change the color, you may be able to have it dyed.  If you end up replacing your carpet, you may want to consider whether you still want carpet throughout the RV or if you'd like to switch to vinyl or laminate in the kitchen and bathroom areas.  You will probably want to retain the carpet in the bedroom and over the engine compartment where it provides extra insulation against both engine noise and heat.  Carpet in the entry and main traffic lanes can be be hard to keep clean, but, if you switch from carpet to a hard surface flooring in the main aisle you may have to deal with cold floors during the cooler months and might have increased road noise.  If you really want the easier-to-clean floors, consider adding insulation under the flooring to mitigate these temperature and noise problems.  

Old carpet is one of the most obvious features that make an RV appear dated.   Replacing it with a more modern floor covering or even a more up to date carpet pattern will do wonders to make your RV appear newer and could even improve its appeal and resale value to future buyers should you decide to sell it.

If you have hard surface floors that get uncomfortably cold on cooler nights, you can always add rugs or runners as a buffer for bare feet.  Rugs and runners have an advantage over permanently installed carpet in that you can remove them as needed for cleaning or roll them up when you don't need them.  Runners and area rugs can be used over carpet too, to help keep it clean and they can be removed and cleaned as needed.  They are usually less expensive to replace than carpet if they do get soiled or worn.

RV floors are one of the common places you may find dry rot.  I've always found it interesting that dry rot is caused by wetness.   A plumbing leak or a leak around a vent, door, or window, or even a long term drip from an ice chest can allow water to seep under the flooring where it rots the sub-floor.  The primary symptom of this type of damage are areas where the floor feels spongy when you walk on it.  There may also be a musty odor that is difficult to get rid of.  If  you suspect you have damaged sub-floor you will need to remove the flooring and inspect the underlayment.  Any rotted or damaged sections should be carefully cut out and replaced before reinstalling the flooring.  Depending on how long the leak has been around, the damage may be limited to the underlayment or could have affected structural components like joists below.  When repairing this kind of water damage always replaced ALL the damaged components.  For my money, I would replace anything that is even in doubt to avoid having to do it all again before too long.  Anytime you have the floor open is a good time to assess the insulation and perhaps increase it for more comfort and better temperature and sound control inside your RV.

Protect your RV floors from premature wear by keeping them clean.  Use an awning mat or at least a welcome mat to trap mud and dirt before you track it inside.  A handy "rug" to wipe your feet on is an old burlap bag.  It's cheap and its coarse material helps scrape off stubborn deposits and you can hose if off or even toss in the the washer between trips to keep it clean and functional.  Sweep and/or vacuum floors often to remove loose grit that can scratch hard surface and actually cut off carpet fibers.   Clean up spills quickly so they don't stain flooring or seep beneath it.

Keep all your floors clean to avoid premature wear and tear.  Grime and grit quickly dull shiny floors and grit will cut the fibers in carpet.  Hard surfaces can be swept with a broom or dust mop and wet-mopped as necessary.  Carpets need to be thoroughly vacuumed on a regular basis.  Large upright vacuum cleaners don't always fit well in RVs.  Use a canister vac or a small, cordless unit in camp and do a thorough cleaning with the upright when you get home from every trip.  BTW, a learned from a vacuum cleaner salesman that moving the vacuum head quickly over carpet does a better job of getting out the grit than going slowly.

Don't be floored by flooring!

Ice Makers

Some high end RVs have built in ice makers,  but they certainly haven't reached the state of becoming close to being standard equipment yet.  They receive water from the RV plumbing system and most are powered by 120-volt AC current from shore power, generator, or inverter.  RV refrigerators typically have freezer compartments that can make a tray or two of ice cubes at a time, but an ice maker will produce far more ice more quickly -- automatically.  You might be able to add one to an RV that doesn't have one, but it will require access to a 120-volt outlet and running a water line -- and you need to have a cabinet or closet space large enough to hold it that you can sacrifice.  I've seen listings on line for propane powered ice makers so it may be possible to get around the 120-volt requirement but it would take extra plumbing of gas lines to install one unless it was set up to use a portable propane source.  I felt really lucky when I had a van conversion with a little fridge that ran on 120 volts or 12 volts and could make ice cubes traveling down the road on the way to camp!

Having plenty of ice is more than just a convenience for keeping your favorite summer beverage cold.  It can have important medical benefits.  If someone gets a sprain, ice packs are the standard treatment.  Ice can be used to help reduce body temperature when a patient has become over heated.  Cold packs at strategic locations (arm pits, groin, wrists, neck) to cool the blood can help reduce body temperature during thermal emergencies.  Take care to keep a comfortable buffer between the ice and the flesh as direct contact and cause injury and great discomfort.

Permanently installed ice makers in RVs are typically adaptations of residential models.  A quick Internet search showed models starting at about $300, plus installation.

Some large luxury RVs have residential style refrigerators that may include an ice maker,  but most RV fridges don't have ice makers and could probably not have them added economically.

For those of us who don't have built in ice makers, there are portable ice makers.  They typically produce around 25 lbs of ice per day and I've seen claims they can make ice in as little as 6 minutes (but they don't say how much in that time).  They run on 120 volt AC so you still need shore power, generator, or an inverter to run them.  They typically cost from $120 to about $300, but I've seen some on ebay around $100 so they can be surprisingly inexpensive.  Because they are portable, they won't need permanent connections for a water supply.  You have to pour water into a built in reservoir.   So, you don't need plumbing but you will have to remember to check and refill the reservoir periodically.   You will need to find a place to set them near a 120-volt outlet to use them and someplace to secure them during transport.  Because they aren't connected to a permanent source of water you have to monitor the water level and replenish it as needed.  The self-contained reservoir could present a spill risk during travel, depending on how it is designed. 

Having an on board source of continuous ice can be a real boon when boonbocking in hot weather.  Even if you're staying in campgrounds where you may have access to ice from the office or camp store, having you own ice maker is a convenience and can save several trips to get ice.  While certainly not an essential component like a working refrigerator, an ice maker can definitely be a nice addition to the RV lifestyle.  Portable ice makers could even be useful for tent campers if they have a generator or access to some other source of 120 volt power.  I spent almost every holiday weekend for 30 years dry camping in the Mojave Desert and, even when I had an ice maker, I seldom used it, so, at least to me, it isn't a critical piece of equipment but it was nice to know it was there if I did need it.  Having plenty of fresh ice to make snow cones is a real boon when camping in hot weather, but the freezer compartment of our fridge could usually keep up with our needs for a family of 8.  Sno-cones were a favorite summer treat on our Desert outings, but our Sno-cone maker used ice  discs from its own specially designed ice cube trays so we seldom needed the ice-maker.

Lack of an ice maker would not cause me to turn down an otherwise nice RV, but I would be delighted to have one again if I get the chance.

Ice it!

Chuck Box

The idea of a "Chuck Box" has been mentioned in several posts as an asset for camping.  So what is a chuck box?  It is kind of like a portable kitchen, mostly used for camping.  Since its likely that many people have never seen one, here is a link to project plans to build your own chuck box.  To some extent they are based on the trail proven techniques used to build chuck wagons for wagon trains and cattle drives in the Old West.  Ideally, your chuck box is a complete, portable camp kitchen.  If you camp in an RV you probably won't need a chuck box since all its features are built into your rig, but some RV folks like cooking outdoors and may find them useful.  There is even  a trend for RVs to have outdoor kitchens and a chuck box is a pretty good substitute if your RV doesn't have one.  For tent campers, a chuck box can deliver a lot of utility and convenience.  A chuck box can be carried in a pickup, SUV, or even in the trunk of your car.  Unless your RV has enormous "basement" storage compartments you may need a rear cargo carrier or a small trailer if you want to add one to your RV.  One advantage to building your own instead of buying one pre-built is  you can design it to fit and make best use of the space you have available to transport it as well as customizing it to safely hold a exactly what you need it to hold.  You can set up your chuck box on the tailgate of our pickup or SUV or on a picnic table or bring along a portable aluminum stand (like a so-called "camp kitchen") to set it on.

Chuck boxes are an adaptation of the concepts used in chuck wagons on cattle drives and wagon trains in the Old West.  They were designed to secure all the basic ingredients and cooking gear needed to provide meals for the cowboys moving herds of cattle across open range and across rivers -- no roads, no bridges.  They excelled at making maximum use of minimum space, conserving weight, and keeping everything dry and secure during what was often rather wild weather and rough travel.  They often had specific bins for basic ingredients like flour, salt, sugar, beans, and coffee. These days you will probably use plastic containers you can stack on the shelves.  Ease of use was a key factor as they had to serve up 2 or 3 meals for lots if cowboys every day out on the trail.   Keep in mind the cuisine on cattle drives wasn't fancy and everything had to be made from just a few key ingredients.  You may recall the warning "Cookie" gave the would be trail hands in the movie "City Slickers":  "You ain't getting no nouveau, almondine, bottled water, sauteed city food!  The food's hot, brown... and plenty of it!"   Which means they were pretty much eating beans and bacon and the coffee was boiled in a pot not a percolator and you had to strain the coffee grounds through your teeth, kind of like Army coffee!  Here are some examples of chuck boxes:

                                                       

There are commercially manufactured chuck boxes you can buy (see Classic Chuck Box, but many people like to build their own.  The one shown in the link is freestanding on its own legs so it doesn't need a table or the back of a vehicle for a platform.  Buying one ready built is an attractive option if you don't have the tools or skills or desire or space to build your own.  Just check the dimensions carefully to make sure it will fit in your vehicle.  Building your own allows you to customize the size and shape to make maximum use of your available space to transport it and the accommodate the things you need to put in it and how you want to use it.  Consider the loaded weight as well as the size.  One that is too big or too heavy to move isn't going to you much good.  So building one that takes up the whole bed of your full size pickup probably isn't a good idea.  It might make an interesting conversation piece and be useful on your patio at home but if you can't pick it up and put it in the back of your vehicle it won't work for camping.  If  you find you can't fit everything in one box, you can supplement it with additional bins or design a second unit to provide additional capabilities as well as additional space -- if you have somewhere to carry it on your  camping trips.

You can design your own chuck box to fit your specific vehicle and your personal requirements.  There are two major limitations you need to take into consideration:  1) size and 2) weight.  The dimensions of your chuck box will have to fit within available space in the vehicle you plan to transport it in.  Another advantage to building your own is you can customize the shape to take advantage of available space in your vehicle.  Sometimes square boxes won't fit inside a closed automobile trunk.  You can get pretty big and fancy if you'll be using it in a pickup truck or large SUV, but will have to scale things down if your means of getting to camp is a sub-compact car.  If you make it too big, it won't fit in your vehicle.  Even if you have a large vehicle to haul it around in you won't want to make it TOO big or it will be too heavy to move, especially when you load it down with utensils, cookware, and provisions.  One solution is to build it in two or more pieces that can be easily moved and then quickly assembled in camp.  When choosing materials, consider that it will most likely have to stand up to rainy days in camp.  A good quality marine grade plywood would be much better than particle board.  Sure, particle board is cheaper, but it is also very heavy and tends to fall apart when it gets wet.  While you will probably want to have space on the front door/shelf for your camp stove and sink, you probably shouldn't try to store and transport the stove inside the chuck box.  That space could be better used for organizing ingredients and utensils.  Most stoves either are either self contained or come in pretty good carrying cases so they can be packed separately.  Designing your own chuck box  lets you choose the size to fit your available transport space and to customize features to accommodate your specific gear and camping style.  One innovation I found that I thought was quite interesting was a two-sided chuck box that opened to provide counter space on both the front and the back.  Such an approach gives more room for a stove, a sink, and food prep space for those of us who like to spread out.  One side might be used as serving space for a buffet style meal while the other side is used for food prep and cleanup.

The rear outdoor kitchen in teardrop trailers is often based on a chuck box or chuck wagon design.  It is probably the closest most people will every see to a real chuck wagon.  For some ideas about how to build  or chose your personal chuck box, stop by an RV show or a dealer and check out some teardrop trailers.  Some key features you will usually find are lockable drawers and cabinets to prevent things from falling out during travel.  Most of the storage spaces will be fairly small but actual size should be determined by your specific needs.  In some configurations the main door covers all the interior cubbyholes to keep things in place.  You'll probably need at least one cabinet large enough to store your cook kit or pots and pans.  It is often convenient and secure to have small, individual compartments or bins for things like flour, sugar, and spices.  You will most likely find it convenient to include some kind of sink even if its just a plastic dishpan.  It can be convenient to have a shelf or platform on which to set a water jug high enough so gravity can supply water directly into your sink or be available for cooking, cleaning, or drinking.  Another option is to use larger water jugs and a battery or manually operated pump to transfer water from the jugs to the sink.  The sink and water system are good candidates to be separate from the chuck box itself.  You'll soon learn you need the space in the box to corral all your kitchen items and provisions where they'll be secure in travel and easy to use in camp.   For smaller chuck boxes, the "sink" will probably be a plastic dishpan you can set on the shelf when the box is open.  The front of the box is normally hinged at the bottom so it opens out to create a shelf.  This is different than a teardrop trailer where the back is often hinged at the top so it opens up to form a canopy over the cooking area.   An umbrella or stand alone canopy can provide shelter over your chuck box.  If you're building your own you will probably find it well worth the slight extra cost to use piano hinges on the main door/shelf.  These hinges run the full length of the opening and distribute the weight better than individual hinges and are less likely to pull loose or twist during use.  You will want to waterproof the outside so it is resistant to wind, dust, and rain.  Ordinary residential foam type weatherstripping will help seal the doors.  Joints should be caulked and the whole thing sealed in a good quality outdoor paint or varnish.  You can be as creative as you like with the paint scheme.  Some paint them to match their vehicles, some just to be bright and cheery.  Or you might decorate it with favorite club, sports, or organization themes or logos.  You will  want to add sturdy handles so it can be easily moved in and out of your vehicle as necessary.  If you have large chuck box in the back of a pickup or SUV you might use it in place, but you still need to be able to load and unload it at home.  Smaller boxes you might carry in the trunk of the family car will probably be moved to the end of a picnic table for use.  If you plan to move your boxes often in camp you will definitely want to make sure they aren't too bulky or too heavy.  It would be good if they could be handled easily by one person, but if you camp with your family you may need and be able to manage something that requires two people to carry it.

If you want the extra convenience of a large chuck box but need to hold down the weight,  consider toting all the utensils, ingredients, etc separately in plastic tubs and just putting them in your camp kitchen when you get to camp.  While that defeats some of the organizational benefits of a self-contained chuck box, it does give you the option for more convenient storage of utinsels and more food preparation space in camp while spreading out the weight for easier carrying.  Individual tubs also allow you or organize supplies by category for more convenient use.  Plastic or rubber tubs are also waterproof and usually provide adequate protection against small pests.  You might need steel containers to protect against larger intruders such as bears, raccoons, or even squirrels.

A handy addition to a chuck box is some sort of canopy or umbrella to provide shade and protection from rain.  Something like a beach or patio umbrella might be attached directly to a large chuck box.  For smaller units you may want to employ a dining fly or a free-standing canopy which could also shelter the entire picnic table for eating.  Of course you may want some kind of canopy over the picnic table whether your chuck box is there or not.  Sometimes it is advantageous to include mounting brackets for a canopy or umbrella on the chuck box itself.  The rear door of a teardrop trailer is usually hinged at the top so the door serves as a canopy for the chuck wagon style galley area.

A friend of mine built what could be considered the ultimate chuck box.  Or, since it was on wheels, it could be considered a modern chuck wagon.  He started with a large gas powered iron griddle (about 3' x 3') that had been part of a decommissioned Forest Service camp kitchen along with a similar size grill for steaks and burgers and a couple of large gas burners for stock pots etc. He converted all the orifices on the gas appliances from natural gas to propane and ran the whole thing from a large, mobile home size propane tank that fit under the cooking platforms.  It was all assembled on a small (4'x'8') trailer frame.  The lift-off lid had fold down legs to turn it into a convenient serving and preparation table.  A shepherds crook style lantern holder held a Coleman gas lantern high above the whole setup for ease of use in low light conditions.  The extra space left in the trailer around the stove and propane tank carried cook ware and utensils, ingredients, and condiments.  I helped him serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner to more than 100 people at a time using that trailer on several occasions.  It was quite fun to use and drew a lot of comments from the crowd.  Just two or three of us could easily cook breakfast, lunch or dinner for 100 people.  Surprisingly enough, even cleanup was kind of fun.

You might combine a chuck box with a camp kitchen for maximum culinary space.  Typical camp kitchens from companies like Coleman are folding aluminum frames to hold your camp stove and provide food preparation counters.  Some even have sinks or  place for a plastic wash basin.

My wife and I adapted a home made chuck box to serve as a "sliding galley"in our sailboat.  The original owner had built it for tent camping but his family had outgrown it and he had moved up to a larger unit.  We lucked out and his old one was exactly the right size to fit under the cockpit seat of our Macgregor 25 sailboat as a sliding galley and give us a place for a small plastic washtub for a sink and room to organize galley items, like utensils and pots and pans.

Chuck it!

Camp Chairs For Campers, RVers, and Boaters

There was a time when about the only option for a comfortable portable seat in camp was a folding camp stool.   They were made of wood and canvas.  Viewed from each end they looked like an "X" when open, with canvas stretched between the bars at the top of the "X" to sit on.  They're still around too.  See Folding Camp Stool  and below for a modern example.
                                                                                                                                                                                       

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Camp chairs have come a long way since then.  Aluminum camp chairs with fiberglass webbing were among the first improvements:  light weight and fold flat for easy transport and a back rest and arm rests so you could really relax.  In addition to the flat, narrow arms shown on the example they often had wider plastic arms that included a convenient cup holder to keep your favorite beverage out of your lap yet close at hand.                    
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They were quite comfortable and easy to use.  You may still be able to find some around if you like this style.  Try ebay.  I hung on to a couple of these because they fit nicely in the "rafters" of my motorcycle trailer for transport.  They are light weight and make a great place to sit while putting on my riding gear.  You can even still get re-webbing kits for them (see re-web kits on amazon.com).

Quad chairs or bag chairs have pretty much taken over the camping scene in recent years.  They can be purchased at many stores that carry camping equipment, such as Walmart, often at very reasonable prices.  The seats, backs, and armrests are made of cloth.
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They typically fold up into about a 4" square form that fits in a bag.  The bags usually have a shoulder strap and/or handle that makes them easy to carry.  These chairs may come with and without arms and can include built in snack tables.  Many of those with arms, like the one in the picture, have a cup holder built into the arm rest.  You can even get recliners,  rocking chairs,and cots of similar fold up construction.  The canvas material is form-fitting, breathable, and very comfortable.

Both the aluminum folding chairs and "quad" style bag chairs are available in children's sizes too, providing portable, affordable, comfortable seating for the whole family.  Some even have built in foldable tables for added convenience.

Camp chairs usually fit easily in the "basement" compartments on motorhomes and travel trailers.  You can also get racks that attach to RV ladders that will carry the folding aluminum style chairs.  Quad or bag chairs can usually be tucked under a bed, sofa, or dinette or carried in a roof pod or the trunk of a car.  For tent campers, quad chairs will usually fit right alongside tents and sleeping bags in your car, truck, or SUV.  I have a couple of the vintage folding aluminum camp chairs that fold flat enough to fit into the shallow (1") rafters of my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Camp chairs are a very good way to enjoy a campfire.  They make a good platform to sit on for roasting hotdogs and marshmallows or just relaxing and enjoying the fire.  Just make sure you put them away or at least fold them down and lay them flat when you leave the campfire for the night.  I've seen several chairs reduced to twisted and melted frames after getting blown into the fire pit after everyone went to bed.  Sometimes there's enough heat left in the ground even after the fire is out to damage errant chairs and it only takes a light breeze to blow empty chairs into the fire pit.  When they are collapsed and lying on the ground they're a lot less likely to get blown around and into the fire.

Maintenance and repairs.  Routine maintenance mostly means keeping them clean and making sure they are properly stored when not in use.  The hinge points of folding aluminum chairs might benefit from a bit of lubrication now and then.  I would use a Teflon or another dry lube rather than an oily spray that would attract dirt and dust and may soil your clothes.  The webbing on some aluminum chairs is attached with screws that might need to be tightened from time to time.  Folding aluminum web chairs can be fairly easily re-webbed, if you can still find the webbing kits.  That is a good way to repair or refresh vintage chairs, or even change the color to match a "new" RV or tent.   Tears in quad chairs can be patched as you would just about any fabric, but they are not really designed to be rebuildable; however anyone who can operate a sewing machine could patch or sew new fabric for these chairs pretty easily.  You can probably use the old fabric for a pattern if it isn't too badly worn out.  They generally come in a variety of basic colors (red, blue, green, orange, yellow, and black) and sometimes camouflage.  If you choose to sew your own, you could make them any color or pattern you like as long as you use an appropriately strong fabric. The factory chairs are usually made of a light weight canvas material.  A good quality nylon or polyester might be more stain resistant.  Speaking of stains, you might want to consider spraying quad chairs with Scotchguard stain repellant when they're new to help keep them looking good.

If you have room to transport them you might use plastic patio chairs in camp.   Probably not very feasible unless you have a very large SUV or a pickup truck or utility trailer to haul them around in!  Folding chairs are far more convenient and will usually provide at least the same level of comfort.

Survival camp chairs.  You aren't likely to have any camp chairs if you find yourself in wilderness survival mode, but that doesn't mean you have to sit on the ground.  You can sometimes find a rock or a stump to sit on or make yourself a rustic stool from just two pieces of wood.  It is easiest to make using flat lumber, but that too will probably not be an option in survival mode.  The basic design is a "T".  You sit on the cross bar of the "T" and the leg supports your weight.  If you have to make a stool from limbs you'll probably want to notch the cross bar so it doesn't roll off.  Since you have to balance this one-legged stool it may take a little practice, but it sure beats sitting on cold, wet, muddy, or snowy ground.  Of course, if you're handy with lashing, you can make a 3-legged camp stool or even a real camp chair from small branches and cordage.

Camp chair accessories.   One of the most popular accessories are umbrellas that clamp to the chair frame to provide shade and protection from light rain.  Another rather esoteric option is called "Backglo".  It is a reflective shield that attaches to the back of the chair and extends all the way to the ground below to reflect heat from the campfire onto your back while blocking any breeze back there.  Lap trays or snack tables can be used with many camp chairs.  There are also little folding tables available in the quad chair style that can be used as tables or as foot stools.  They look like a quad chair without a back.

Camp chairs are not usually used on boats, but they could be if the need came up.  Deck space on most boats is limited and there is usually sufficient and appropriate seating seating built in.  The almost constant movement of a boat makes loose chairs impractical.  If you need to use camp chairs on a boat make sure the feet aren't going to damage the deck.  Missing plastic caps or sharp edges could cause significant damage to deck surfaces.  Aluminum chairs with U-shaped legs distribute the weight and avoid that problem.  You might want to carry camp chairs on your boat if you stop on shore overnight or just for meals and other activities -- if you have room for them on board.

Sittin' pretty!

Trailer Ride Height

Travel trailers should ride level when being towed.  This maintains the right weight distribution for better handling, proper tire wear, better air flow, and may help minimize fuel consumption.  A trailer that sits too low in front or too high in back exposes part of the bottom or the top of the trailer to frontal winds effectively increasing total frontal area and increasing drag.  In addition, a trailer that sits too high in front may get extra wind underneath the trailer, which could have a tendency to lift some of the weight off the hitch and the tires, causing handling problems.  One that is too low in front may transfer a disproportionate amount of weight to the hitch.  Improper hitch weight can affect handling and safety.  I'm sure we've all seen a little trailer behind a big truck or motorhome with its tongue angled up sharply.  Not only does it look strange, it is probably somewhat unsafe because it alters the hitch weight and the geometry of the connection between the trailer and the tow vehicle.  A hitch that is angled on the ball, either up or down, instead of flat will put extra stress on the ball and the hitch and could cause premature failure (either slipping off the ball or breaking the ball or the hitch). When the hitch is level the ball should be gripped all around near the bottom to keep it in place.  Angling the hitch puts the "grip"  on a wider part of the ball instead of under it, weakening the connection.

Trailer height is sometimes affected by worn or inadequate vehicle suspension.  If the weight of the trailer makes the vehicle squat like a cat in a litter box, either the trailer is overloaded or the vehicle suspension needs help.   Overloading a trailer is likely to cause both handling problems and premature wear and tear.  If you have an overloaded trailer, go through it and cut down what you are carrying.  If you MUST carry that much stuff you many need a bigger trailer.   If the trailer isn't overloaded but it still squats, the suspension needs work.  The springs may need to be replaced or "helper" springs added to compensate for normal wear over time.  Worn springs can sometimes be re-arced and/or have leafs added to restore function.  Or you can replace the springs or add helper springs.   Be sure to check the Combined Vehicle Gross Weight of the tow vehicle to make sure you aren't overloading the vehicle beyond its rating before adding helper springs.  Leaf springs can be re-arced and one or more leafs added to restore or increase capacity.  Air bags are sometimes suggested as a way to lift sagging suspension, but there can be undesirable side effects.  I've seen motorhome frames bent by airbags because they become the primary load point and unless the frame has been reinforced at the attachment point, it may not be strong enough to hold all the weight of the vehicle.  The original leaf springs distribute the weight to at least two mounting points which are usually located on a stronger part of the frame.  The truck frames many motorhomes are built on narrow down where they curve up and over the rear axle, creating a weak spot.  Adding an air bag at this point can make it the single primary point of weight distribution, something the frame was not designed to handle.  If the vehicle doesn't sag but the trailer tongue is angled up or down, you will need to adjust the height of the connection between the trailer and the tow vehicle.  Some but not all trailers have shock absorbers.  Those that do can sometimes benefit from the installation of shocks with a heavier rating or eve load-sharing shocks.

The easiest way to make a trailer ride level is to adjust the hitch height by using a drop hitch.  They are available with different drop heights and some are even adjustable to fine tune the height.  Most drop hitches can be flipped over if you need to raise the tongue instead of lowering it to match the hitch on the tow vehicle. Basically, if the hitch height when the trailer is level is lower than the hitch on the tow vehicle, you need a drop hitch to bring the ball down to the level of the trailer tongue.  If the tongue is higher, you need to use an inverted drop hitch to lift the ball to match the trailer tongue.Here is a link for how to Measure for Rise or Drop.

Sometimes you may want to raise the overall ride height of the trailer, and not just change the height of the connection between the trailer and the tow vehicle.   Trailers that are used off-road may need extra ground clearance or if you have trouble with dragging the tail going in and out of driveways your trailer might benefit from raising the body.  This requires modification of the suspension.  On trailers with double-eye leaf springs you may be able to install longer spring hangers to easily and inexpensively gain an inch or so.  Another approach is to relocate the springs.  The springs are normally suspended beneath the axle.  By moving them so they sit on top of the axle you gain the height of the axle and the thickness of the center of the springs.  This is not a trivial task as it may require welding new spring perches to the top of the axle.  Why can't you just turn the axle over?  Some are "drop axles" that carry the weight of the trailer below the center of the wheels so they aren't designed to be flipped over but even straight axles usually have a slight curve so the weight of the trailer straightens them out instead of making them sag.  If you flip them over you risk screwing up the angle of the wheels.  Sometimes you can upgrade the springs so they don't flatten out as much to gain a little height, but this will also stiffen the ride and may cause the trailer to bounce more on rough roads.  Raising trailer height merely so it rides level behind your tow vehicle isn't usually a good idea.  You should only result to suspension modifications to raise the height if you need more ground clearance or additional load capacity.  And remember, you won't increase axle clearance but you will get the body higher so it doesn't tail drag as easily going over obstacles and having the springs on top of the axle instead of below means you don't have the springs and U-bolts that hold them on hanging down below the axle where they can drag sooner.  If you need more axle clearance you might consider larger wheels and tires -- if there is enough clearance in the wheel well for them.  In extreme situations it may require a different axle to gain the necessary ground clearance.  I was able to successfully raise my Smuggler dirt bike trailer by moving the springs on top of the axle, giving it a better ride height for the pickup I towed it with and a little extra ground clearance on desert roads and off road.

If the trailer isn't level from side to side, it may have a weak or broken spring on one side.   I once had one that looked like one side was missing a leaf .  When I removed the springs to replace them, the one that was low came out in pieces,  Every leaf except the main one was broken in the middle and at least one was missing an entire half of the leaf.  You should always replace springs in pairs to maintain equal suspension and performance, even if only one is damaged.  Sometimes you can gain a little ride height by using heavier/stronger springs.  Just replacing worn, tired springs with new ones of the same number of leaves might add a little lift.  Going to springs with more leaves will usually add some height, but it makes the ride stiffer.  If the springs are too stiff for the load, it will be almost like there are no springs at all, just a solid connection, which means the contents will bounce more, there will be more vibration (which could affect trailer components and contents), and the trailer may transfer more road shocks to the tow vehicle.  Sometimes it is possible to have leaf springs re-arced to regain some of the original height and load capacity.

Many trailers lack shock absorbers.   Because people don't usually ride in trailers, manufacturers save weight and money by not installing shock absorbers.  If yours doesn't have shocks, you might be able to add them, but it can be a difficult and sometimes expensive process.  There are bolt on kits available to fit some trailers but in many cases you will have to have shock mounts fabricated and welded on.  Why add shocks?  Adding shocks will help reduce bouncing of the wheels, which can reduce tire wear and extend tire life.  Reduced bouncing also minimizes shifting of contents inside. I've seen trailers that bounced so much all the stuff on the shelves or in the cabinets ended up piled on the floor by the time they arrived in camp.  Shocks can improve trailer handling too.  By resisting tilting they help maintain the trailer on the level and avoid lateral stress on the hitch and tow vehicle.  If you can add shocks inexpensively it might be worthwhile but if you have to fork out big bucks to have them installed, it may be cost prohibitive.

Air shock absorbers on some vehicles are used to raise the body height, but since they are not designed as a primary support system doing so isn't really a good idea, so I wouldn't try to use shocks to raise a trailer or tow vehicle height.  When you do the air shocks take all the load all the time, not  just some of the load when the wheel bounces.  Shifting the primary load from two ends of a leaf spring to the single top of an air shock may seriously change loading and could bend the frame.  I have seen that happen.

Ride right!

Cabin Fever

Are YOU climbing the walls yet? Between COVID 19 quarantine and winter a lot of people are.  If so, you may be suffering from Cabin Fever.

Cabin fever is defined  by Wikipedia, as "a claustrophobic reaction that takes place when a person or group is isolated and/or shut in a small space, with nothing to do for an extended period."  People affected by cabin fever become restless and irritable.  Sometimes, in spite of being restless, they tend to sleep excessively.  The term is loosely and humorously used to describe simple boredom from being home alone with nothing to do.   The idea of cabin fever apparently began with trappers and hunters who were often literally trapped in their cabins for extended periods of time by inclement weather.  Sometimes they became so agitated they would go outside even if it was dark or there was a blizzard or other hazards, often never to return.  If you find yourself  feeling like "climbing the walls" you're probably suffering from cabin fever.  Today the causes and consequences of cabin fever are much diminished, but it certainly hasn't been completely eradicated.  Certainly the quarantine associated with COVID-19 is giving some of us cabin fever!  Sometimes we even get cabin  fever while out camping when the weather keeps us in our RVs or tents too long.

With that in mind, those of us who enjoy outdoor recreation are usually experiencing some of the symptoms of cabin fever after several months of winter.  For campers, boaters, RVers and off road enthusiasts, it usually takes the form of a gnawing desire to get out and go camping, boating, and/or riding.  Unless the weather is unusually mild, it will probably be several weeks before we can act on our desires.  We tend to get restless, pace the floor, and keep looking out the window, as if doing so would somehow hurry Spring.

What can we do about that?  I've found the best remedy is to start working on getting things ready for the upcoming season.  Some of that involves researching routes and destinations.  Some involves performing maintenance or upgrade tasks to my RV, OHV, boat, and  riding and camping gear.  Doing some shopping for camping gear and accessories for your camping related activities can also help. Some of it involves inspecting my riding gear and making sure it is all clean and in good repair and properly stored and organized for that long awaited first trip of the season.  I keep my riding gear hanging in my enclosed motorcycle trailer so its ready to go and to use when we are, as long as we remember to put it back after its been laundered from the last trip but it is always a good idea to inventory and inspect all your gear before each trip.  Doing it while waiting for the weather to become conducive to outdoor activities is one very productive and satisfying way to combat cabin fever.  Now is a good time to repair tears or broken fasteners and to clean, shine, and waterproof boots.

Now is actually a very good time to begin preparations for the upcoming season.  Doing so gives us time to take care of any problems we encounter and to make any changes we may have planned or think up as we go.  Going through your gear may remind you of things you wanted to do but perhaps forgot to write down or you may discover new ideas, based on things you have learned from other sources since your last trip.   In any case, it will also bring back memories of previous adventures and allow you to relive or at least recall them and that by itself can be a fun thing to do.  It is quite rewarding to find things to fix or update and even more so when you complete the repairs or replacements.   Starting now also lets you spread out the cost and effort of any needed items or tasks over several weeks before your first trip of the season rather than creating a long list the weekend right before your outing and having to shell out a ton of money or invest a whole bunch of time all at once.  Having some time lets you do a little shopping and price comparisons to you don't over pay for necessary items.  And its nice not to have to rush through any necessary tasks.

February is probably a little too early to de-winterize RVs, at least in the colder climates. You need to wait until the chance of freezing overnight temperatures has passed.  But you can begin checking for damaged caulk or other signs of leaks and planning and making the repairs.  Things like caulking require some drying time so it is especially good to get a head start on those kinds of projects.  Cleaning carpets and upholstery are also good candidates for early completion, as they too need some drying time.  It won't hurt to check engine fluid levels and batteries either.  Now is also a good time to check all the lights and replace damaged lenses and burned out bulbs.  RV lighting systems tend to develop bad ground connections, especially when sitting all winter so if you have lighting problem that isn't a bad bulb, check the ground.  Because a lot of RVs have fiberglass skin, a ground wire has to be fastened to the vehicle frame somewhere and those connections can work loose or become corroded and then you get some really strange symptoms -- like all the clearance lights blinking with the turn signals or no lights working at all, even though testing the hot wire with a test light shows they're getting power.  Connections often involve multiple types of metal -- steel frame, copper wire, brass connectors -- and that is an instant recipe for corrosion, especially when you add moisture.  Even a little condensation of moisture in the air can be enough to gum up the works.

Interestingly enough, it is possible to get cabin fever when you are out camping or boating!  Anyone who may be a bit claustrophobic to begin with sometimes finds being confined to a tent, boat, or an RV uncomfortable, especially if it is for an extended period of time (e.g., during bad weather).  Even people who aren't normally claustrophobic may get a little antsy cooped up in a tent or RV or boat for several hours in bad weather.  Both tent and RV spaces are usually much smaller and with less to do than our homes.  Boats are usually even tighter on space.  Keeping your tent. boat, or RV as open, clean, well organized, roomy, and user friendly as possible is one way to help combat this syndrome, but often the only solution is to get outside and DO something, which isn't all bad since that's largely why we go camping in the first place.  But sometimes weather may restrict our outdoor activities and we have to find ways to stay active and entertained inside.  Today's plethora of portable electronic devices gives us many more options that folks had a few years ago, but the time-honored traditions like reading,  playing board games or card games are still viable option and requires NO power source beyond our own.  Having plenty of tasty and somewhat nutritious snacks along will help fuel our bodies and distract us from our boredom.  Sometimes preparation of snacks can be a fun diversion in itself.  Pop some popcorn; bake some cookies; cook some pies in the campfire.  I also find inside "down time" a good time to catch up on routine chores.  It can be quite productive and satisfying to go through and organize cabinets, closets, and drawers or even do a little more thorough cleaning than normally gets done in camp.  I find checking my tools to be particularly satisfying and productive, making sure they are clean, undamaged, and stored where they should be.  It can also be a good reminder of what I have and where it is when I need it.  Getting everything shiny and "shipshape" can be very satisfying and will continue to pay dividends throughout the rest of your outing.

Don't freak out!

RV, OHV, and Camping Links

The Internet is an excellent source for RV information.  Use your favorite search engine to find information about RVs, campgrounds, routes, equipment, repair tips, camping tips, gear and equipment, accessories and just about anything else you want to know.

Here are some direct links to RV and OHV resources you may find useful:

Everything About Rving
General RV information

Camping World
RV and Camping Parts and Supplies

PPL Motorhomes
RV and Camping Parts and Supplies

Coleman's Military Surplus
Military surplus and camping and survival gear

RV Hall of Fame
RV History

Tin Can Tourists
Classic RV Club

California Off Road Vehicle Association (CORVA
A group that supports ALL OHV interests in California

Utah Trail Machine Association
Utah's oldest and largest dirt bike club

www.desertrat.org
My own unofficial, family oriented off road group in southern California

Good Sam Club
National/International RV Club

Motorhome Magazine
Monthly Motorhome Magazine

Trailer Life Magazine
 Monthly Trailer Magazine

Dirt Bike Magazine
Monthly magazine about dirt bikes; reviews, maintenance, riding tips 

Gypsy Journal -- On The Road With Full Timers
 General motorhome advice for people who live in their RVs.

Winnebago Outdoor 
RV and Camping Parts and Supplies

Pinterest 
There are at last 7 camping categories on Pinterest, with hundreds of useful tips.

Everything About Rving is wonderful site for RVers.  Like this blog it is filled with useful information and they offer a free Ask An RV Question Page that makes it really easy to get answers to your questions.

And here are some general camping links:


Free Campsites its a web site that helps your find free campsites all over the United States.  You can search by location or use their map to find free camp grounds near you.

Camping Tips Everyone Must Know Before Going gives a nice list of things to help you get ready and enjoy your camping trip in a neat side-by-side do's and don'ts format that is easy to read.
  

RV, Camper, and Boat Mattresses

 Mattresses used in RVs and boats are usually pretty similar.   However, many boats have a v-berth in the bow as a sleeping area and those require specially shaped mattresses to fit into the pointy end of the boat.  Some folks like to use some kind of anti-moisture tiles under the mattress so that any water that accidentally gets into the boat doesn't get soaked up by the mattress.   The cab over beds on truck campers also frequently benefit from anti-moisture tiles. Of course, if the amount of water exceeds the depth of the tile (usually about 1/2" - 3/4") the mattress will still get wet.  Most of what is given below for RV mattresses also applies to boat mattresses.

RV Mattresses.  RVs are intended to provide us most of the creature comforts we enjoy at home, including a comfortable bed.  I'm sure we all agree that getting a good night's rest is essential for safe, enjoyable, successful travel and outdoor activities.  Most RV beds are pretty comfortable, or at least start out that way.  But not all RV mattresses are created equal nor hold up as well.  Cheap mattresses will break down faster than better quality products and no one sleeps well on a thin or broken down, lumpy mattress.  Mattresses in used RVs can be a mystery.  Some may be OEM, some replacements.   Replacements may be upgrades or even downgrades so you don't know what you're getting.  In addition to original quality, use and care will also affect performance and longevity.  If the previous owner was very large or for some reason carried heavy cargo on the bed, the mattress may not last long.  Are RV mattresses really that different from the residential mattresses you use at home?  Sometimes they are.  For one thing, you can save weight using a thinner or lighter mattress so many RVs come with sleep systems that are often considered inferior to the one on your bed at home to reduce weight and cost.  If you're used to an extra thick and comfy mattress at home, you might find the thin pad in some RVs disappointing.  For another thing, they are sometimes different sizes than the standard sizes used at home.  For example, what you might take for an ordinary double bed in some motorhomes is actually a 3/4 size mattress at 48" wide, compared to 54" for a standard double mattress.  If you don't think 6" makes much difference, try sleeping two people on  a 3/4 size mattress!   RV King and Queen mattresses are usually not the same size as their residential namesakes.  Some RVs use a corner bed to save space and they'll often have the exposed corner cut off to provide more aisle space.  The cut corner usually doesn't affect sleeping unless someone quite tall sleeps on that side of the bed and their feet hang over, but if you replace it with a mattress that doesn't have the cut corner it can both droop and can get in the way of getting past the bed, which is usually the path to the corner bathroom in the other rear corner of the RV.  Sometimes you can add support under the extended corner, but it might mean banging your shins when you go by.  RV Queen and RV King mattresses are usually a little shorter than standard residential models.  If there is room and you can sacrifice a few inches of walking space you can usually upgrade to residential size mattresses, but you might need to extend the platform so the mattress doesn't sag where it hangs over the edge.  If the existing mattress already goes from wall to wall, there won't be room for a larger one.

There are many reasons why you might want to replace an RV or boat mattress.   As mattresses age, the cover fabric may deteriorate and tear, padding may get compressed or shift, springs may collapse or break, or the mattress may become stained or soiled so that it is unpleasant and perhaps unhealthy to sleep on.  Boat mattresses, often subjected to excess humidity, can develop mold and mildew that makes them unhealthy as well as unpleasant.

You can buy replacement mattresses from RV stores like Camping World or you can have them custom made.  Any good upholstery shop should be able to order and cut foam to fit your RV and make a suitable cover if you don't have a local mattress maker.  Having a custom made foam mattress may be less expensive than you might think, especially if you can use an off-the-shelf mattress cover instead of having one custom made. If the cover is slightly smaller it still might work but it could make the mattress bow in the middle.  If it is too big you can usually fold it over and tuck it under to make it work -- or, if you're handy in the sewing department, you can alter it to make it fit to your satisfaction.

You can even buy famous brand name mattresses, including Serta and Sleep Number beds, to fit most RVs.  Be sure to measure your mattress to be sure you're getting one that will fit right.  The "Queen" and "King" beds in some RVs are NOT the same size as standard Queen and King beds at home, although sometimes standard mattress can be made to work.  When measuring for a new mattress, measure the platform, not the old mattress.  The shape and dimensions of the old mattress may have been distorted by use and by temperature and humidity or the old mattress might already have been a replacement that may or may not have been sized right.

If your old mattress is breaking down and is no longer comfortable to sleep on, you can either replace it with a new mattress or consider adding a mattress topper.  A mattress topper will usually be a lot less expensive and often gives very satisfactory results.  A mattress topper is not the same thing as a mattress pad.  Toppers are usually much thicker and made of foam.  Pads are mostly made of cotton.  You can buy memory foam mattress toppers and it is pretty easy to cut the foam down if it is larger than your mattress.  An electric knife is very good for cutting foam.   You may have to alter the cover for the mattress topper to fit the reduced size -- or just tuck it under.  We added a 4" memory foam topper to the rather skimpy RV mattress in one of our motorhomes and it made for a very comfortable bed.  With a good topper over an older mattress that is breaking down you probably won't notice the diminished performance of the original mattress.  Your sleeping comfort will be mostly determined by the topper, with the original mattress simply providing a cushioned foundation.  Given that a topper sells for around $100 and new mattress can cost more than $400, a mattress topper is a very attractive option. A 4" topper changes a skimpy 4"mattress into a comfortable 8" thick sleep system.  We have even used memory foam toppers in the v-berth in our sailboats.

Some people find foam mattresses too hot to sleep on since they are not good conductors of heat and often don't allow the kind of air circulation that is possible in an innerspring mattress.   If you're one of those people, use a cotton mattress pad over your foam mattress or topper.  Feather beds are an attractive alternative for some people (unless you're allergic to feathers!).

A simple mattress pad may solve issues with sensitivity to foam.  Pads made of cotton usually provide the most neutral solution, insulating you from the temperature attributes of the foam.  Some people like the luxurious softness of a "feather bed".  If you find yourself already out on a trip when you discover your mattress seems to hot or too cold, you can probably make do with an extra blanket between the bottom sheet and the mattress.  Even an itchy wool blanket would be OK since it would be under the sheet -- unless you are particularly sensitive or allergic to wool, in which case I would wonder why you'd have a wool blanket in the first place.

Air mattresses can be a lightweight alternative to replacing a mattress if you can find one to fit.  In addition to being very light weight you can adjust the firmness to fit your personal needs.  But, some people find the plastic surface hot or cold to sleep on.  This can usually be overcome with a mattress pad and still enjoy the benefits of an air mattress -- low cost, light weight, infinitely adjustable firmness.  If you opt for an air mattress, be sure to carry a repair kit so you can fix any leaks that might crop up in camp. It really isn't fun waking up on flattened mattress!  Quality air mattresses are generally pretty sturdy if they aren't punctured or otherwise abused.  Since you can't change the shape of an air mattress they won't fit in v-berths on boats.

Sleep well.

Tent Lighting

There are many good options for tent lights these days.  Some years back, candles, a kerosene lantern or a trusty Coleman gas lantern or flashlights were about the only choices.  Anything with a flame is a potential hazard in a tent, although a Coleman or kerosene lantern, if used cautiously may be OK and will also serve as a heater.  Kerosene gives off fumes that are offensive to some people and somewhat toxic.  A propane powered propane lantern will be almost odorless but will still consume oxygen.  Always provide adequate ventilation when using a flame powered lantern inside your tent to avoid suffocation.  Keeping a window on opposite sides about 1" is usually about right.  Ordinary handheld flashlights are kind of cumbersome to use and the narrow beam isn't very good for area lighting.  Fortunately today they are many battery powered lanterns that work very well and are very safe to use in a tent.  For optimum battery life, choose an LED lantern.  Rechargeable lanterns are good if you have a way to recharge them in camp or on the road.  Many offer charging via 12-volt plug that fits a standard car cigarette lighter.  Solar powered lanterns are great, as long as you remember to put them outside in the sun regularly to recharge.  Might not be so good if you get a lot of rainy days  or stay in the shade where you go camping.  You can even get battery powered lanterns with remote controls so you can turn the light on and off without having to get out of your warm sleeping bag.

Some tents have loops sewn into the top of the inside of the tent or built into the framework for you to hang your lights on.  If yours doesn't, you can usually use a clip like those used to fasten accessories to RV awnings or ID badges to your pocket or lapel, to secure your light by clipping them to a seam or tent pole.  Another option would be to sew your own loop inside the roof of your tent.  Be sure to seal the stitching with seam sealer or you'll probably get a drip when it rains.  While it would be ideal to make the loop from matching tent fabric, it may be hard to find.  A scrap of denim from an old pair of jeans will do the trick.  And, since it is very small, and mostly out of sight, will most likely not be at all offensive.  Some tents come with matching bags for tent stakes and you may be able to steal a strip of fabric from one of those to make your loops.  Another handy way to secure lights is using a spring type paper clamp.  You can also use ordinary binders twine to tie them up just about anywhere you need a light.

I've had one of my favorite tent lights for years, long before LED lights were available.  It is very small, about 1 1/2" x 3/4" x 4".  It runs on AA batteries and has both a spot light and a flood light mode.  Its light weight and small size makes it ideal for hanging from the top of a tent and the flood light mode does a fair job of illuminating a pretty large area.   The spot light is handy for looking inside packs or illuminating trails after dark.  It fits easily in a pocket or in pouch on your back pack.  These days I'd opt for an LED version to get better battery life.  I also have a pocket sized LED light, with both spot and flood light modes.  Again, it is small enough and light enough to hang from the top of the then and the LED bulbs do not generate enough heat for it to be any danger to tent fabric, even if it is hung directly from a fabric loop at the top of the tent.  I bought mine at Harbor Freight.  They are often on sale for $2.99, but even at the regular discount price of $3.49 they are a bargain.  Hey, the advertised retail price of $7.99 isn't bad, considering the functionality and utility of this handy LED light.  Quite often you can even find coupons in the Harbor Freight ads to get one for free!

I have a new possibility I am looking forward to trying out.   It is a remote controlled above ground LED pool light.  It has a magnetic base that would normally attach to the steel walls of a Doughboy type pool,  but it also came with a steel plate that would go on the outside of a plastic pool so it could be used when there are no steel walls.  I plan to use the steel plate on the outside of my tent so the magnet has something to stick to. The remote control should be a nice convenience.

If you end up using your Coleman lantern in your tent, make sure to keep it away from the tent fabric.  It will probably be kind of heavy to hang from the top of the tent, but even if you have a very sturdy tent or sturdy frame to hang it on, be sure to keep it away from the fabric.  Since heat rises, having it within a few inches of the tent roof could damage the roof or even cause a fire.  Better to set it on something, like an overturned bucket or an ice chest.  That keeps it away from the roof and will usually provide better heat distribution.  And, as mentioned before, be sure you have adequate ventilation.  Coleman lanterns put out quite a bit of heat.   A Coleman gas lantern was all a friend with a camper van used to heat his van on chilly nights.

Candles have been used for hundreds of years in residences and in tents and are still a viable option, if you use them wisely.  The open flame means you have to exercise extra care to avoid setting your tent on fire.  Using a lantern style candle holder (also known as candle lanterns) is one way to minimize fire danger while retaining a nostalgic appearance and economical operation.  They provide a little protection against the open flame coming in contact with fabric or other flammable materials if they get knocked over or pushed up against the side of the tent.

Modern LED lights offer many useful advantages.  Battery powered LED lights run cool so there is little danger of them starting a fire even if they come in contact with tent fabric.  LED bulbs use far less electricity than incandescent counterparts making batteries last a LOT longer.  A visitor once left a single 12-volt light on in the bathroom of my RV and it totally drained two large deep cycle batteries in afternoon.  Contrast that with an 17 LED lantern powered by 4 " D" cells I inadvertently left on in barn over night.  Not only did the lantern still work the next day, the batteries held up for 3-4 months afterwards.  Solar lanterns are available too.  Just remember to put them out in the sunlight every day to recharge.  You can even get camping lanterns with remote controls so you don't even have to get out of our sleeping bag to turn them on or off.

During the day, you may be able to take advantage of natural light.  If the tent fabric is light enough, it may allow enough light in that you won't need any artificial light.  Opening windows and doors will also let light in, but if you use a tarp over your tent for shade or extra rain protection, you might still need artificial light during the day.  You may be able to lighten up the interior of a double wall tent by temporarily removing the rain fly.

At night you might want to light up your tent inside so it can be seen to avoid someone running into it with a vehicle or even walking into it in the dark!  LEDs would be best for this since you wouldn't have to worry too much about the batteries running down if you need to leave them on for several hours.

Light it up!