Involuntary Downsizing

We recently experienced an accident that resulted in our 1986 Holiday Rambler being declared a total loss by the insurance company.  I spent a couple of months searching  the Internet for a replacement and couldn't find a single similar unit for sale anywhere in the U.S.  I found two in Australia, both had been converted to Australian Design Rules and completely renovated, with prices about 4 times what I paid for my unit several years ago.  While that speaks highly of the quality of the original unit, it doesn't lend itself to replacing a wrecked motorhome in Utah.  Once we knew it was going to be totaled we began looking for an alternative.  We quickly realized that the 1986 HR we'd had for about 10 years was an incredible find when we bought it and that we weren't going to be able to replace it with anything even close.  Available units of a similar size and age but a different brand had originally sold for about 1/4 the cost of the Holiday Rambler and lacked its features and quality.  So we reevaluated our needs and adjusted our expectations.

We looked at literally hundreds of online listings, inspected at least a dozen local units for sale by owner, and visited about a half dozen dealers looking for something that would meet our needs -- and satisfy at least some our our wants -- and staying within a reasonable budget.  I found that lacking an exact replacement, getting anything close in terms of size, features, and quality, would cost 2 -10 times the insurance payout!  A careful evaluation of our current needs showed we really didn't need such a big unit and that we'd be able to go more places and do more things in a smaller one.

We ended up downsizing from a 40' diesel powered luxury Holiday Rambler motorhome to a mid-sized 27' gasoline powered Class A.  It is a 1984 Southwind Eagle and, according to the dealer, was purchased from a legendary "little old lady" (which was confirmed by the current registration certificate found in the vehicle).   Given the condition of the unit, the story is believable.  It rolled over 42,000 miles on it as I drove it off the lot.  The appliances (stove, refrigerator) are like new.  The water heater was replaced just a few years ago and is also like new.  It has all brand new carpet.  Obviously it lacks the spaciousness and many of the luxury features our Holiday Rambler had, but it will be a very fun rig to use.  My initial intention was to purchase from a private party to get the best price but this little Eagle was advertised by a small local dealer, and at a surprisingly good price -- about 1/3 the average retail shown in the Nada Guide.  Moreover the dealer was exceptionally good to work with.  It is a small, family run lot in American Fork, Utah:  RVs of America.  It has been my experience that large dealers with a large sales force have a lot of overhead and there is usually lot of competition between the salesmen, often resulting in higher pressure selling than I like.  We found the folks at RVs of America (it is owned and operated by two brothers)  to be genuinely interested in  helping us find the right motorhome for our needs rather than selling us what they wanted to move.  By selecting a unit that was basically kind of under priced (buying in the November-December time frame might have had something to do with it) we had budget left over to add some of the premium accessories we'd come to enjoy in the big motorhome.

By carefully researching the available options we were able to find a unit that had at least some of the luxury features we'd become accustomed to in our Holiday Rambler, specifically, hydraulic levelers and an electric step.   I doubt if we'll miss the washer and dryer in the big Holiday Rambler which was so seldom used that the rollers in the dryer were flattened from sitting so long when I did want to use it.  One of the conscious tradeoffs we made was whether to buy a newer unit with fewer amenities or an older one that was better equipped.  Given our current station in life (semi-retired) we opted for more amenities.  When we were younger I probably would have favored newer units with higher potential resale or trade in value, but at this point I'm not planning to make many more trades -- and I've come to like my creature comforts.

Downsizing of this magnitude necessitates a reappraisal of what supplies and other items are really necessary.  With cavernous basement storage on the Holiday Rambler, we had room for lots of niceties that don't fit in the smaller motorhome.  I've even had to sort through and re-think my on board tool kit and buy a smaller tool box that would fit one of the compartments.  Fitting what you really need into less than 2/3 the space means reducing things by at least 1/3.  That means starting with the idea of setting aside one out of three kitchen items, one out of three extra items of clothing, one out of three cleaning supplies, and at the very least, one out of three gadgets.   The reduced basement storage on top of the significant reduction in overall length adds up to a lot more than a 1/3 reduction in cargo capacity.  Here is where selecting and stocking items with multiple uses will REALLY come in handy.  For example, bringing along a 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash instead of separate solutions will save space in the limited bathroom medicine cabinet.  While the 3-in-1 may not yield quite the same results as more expensive individual products, it is adequate for occasional use for a few days in camp.  It also saves water since you only have to rinse your hair once.  In removing all our stuff from the "old" motorhome, I found that I had on board cleaning supplies that I only use during winterization or spring cleaning.  It was convenient to have them on board when there was plenty of room.  However, those now become candidates to be left on the shelf in the garage since they aren't normally needed in camp.  Closets revealed even more stuff that didn't really need to be there.  Over the years we had accumulated clothing for multiple seasons, often carrying around parkas and a whole box of winter gloves when it was 90°+ outside.  Things like that can be easily added as needed instead of occupying a permanent spot in limited real estate.  Gadgets are often a source of a lot of fun for RVers and other campers, but when space is at a premium, it is worthwhile to only bring along what you actually use.  I am certain there were a lot of nice gadgets I had squirreled away in the big motorhome that I seldom used that will not migrate to the "new" smaller unit.  The late RV great Gaylord Maxwell described his downsizing from a 40' monster Class A to more modest 30' Class C.  His rule for the big motorhome was "If you think you might need it, bring it along."  The smaller rig requires a different mind set.  The new rule is "If you're not sure you're going to use, leave it home."  Those two attitudes pretty much sum up our situation as we migrate from a 40' to a 27'.  However, we keep finding things we "need" and have to make room for.  It is a never ending battle.

There were a lot of difficult decisions to be made as we tried to find space for all the "stuff" we'd gotten used to packing around.  It is amazing how creative you can become when you have to.  The more than ample cabinets in the big Holiday Rambler allowed us many options for dinnerware.  Realizing we no longer had to regularly accommodate a family of 8 let us significantly reduce the number of table settings and we decided we really didn't need Melmac, speckleware, AND stainless steel plates, but we still managed to find a place under couch to squirrel away some cafeteria trays in case we join a potluck dinner somewhere.  Overall it was amazing to discover just how much "stuff" we'd packed away in our old, bigger rig.   Needless to say, it was a bit of a challenge.

Unfortunately, we took delivery just after winter arrived with sub-freezing temperatures and had to have the dealer winterize the rig even before we brought it home so we haven't been able to take it out yet.  It is tucked away in our covered RV storage where we slowly take care of a few enhancements we wanted to make and go through all the stuff we took out of the "beast" and figure out what will fit and where in the smaller rig.

We are expecting our "new" and smaller rig will be less expensive to drive and will definitely be more maneuverable and will fit in Forest Service campgrounds that were off limits to the big, luxury motorhome.  Hopefully that means more chances to go camping and more choices of where we can go.

August update:   we took the Eagle on a 2400 mile trip this summer and pretty much loved it.  There were few if any of the features of the bigger motorhome that we really missed and the 27 footer was a lot easier and less stressful to drive.  But we're still looking for places to put more "critical" things in the smaller unit.

2017 update.  Came across a deal that was too good to pass up:   a 1999 Holiday Rambler Vacationer with (as it said on the windshield) "low miles and huge slide".  Our previous experience with Holiday Rambler made us predisposed to the brand.  The low miles and the slideout, together with nice features like a queen island bed and an incredible trade-in allowance for our Southwind made this too good an opportunity to pass up.  It is a 36 footer so we got back a lot of the size and luxury features we had on our previous Holiday Rambler.  It is good to keep your eyes open where ever  you go.  We weren't really in the market for another motorhome.  In fact, I had gone to this particular lot to look at a used Jeep for my wife.  The Holiday Rambler caught my eye and the deal they offered me REALLY caught my attention.  We ended  up living quite comfortably in the Vacationer for about 6 months while we were looking for a new home in Oregon after selling our house in Utah.

When life hands you lemons, make lemonade!

Camping and Boating Trade Offs

There are many trade offs to take into account when considering a camping lifestyle.   One of the first decisions is whether you like any kind of camping.  Next is whether you want to tent camp or camp in some kind of RV.  While cost is often a major factor in deciding between tent camping and buying an RV, it certainly isn't the only factor.  Tent camping can be done in a wide variety of locations.  It also gives a more primitive, adventurous spirit to outings which can be very satisfying, even if not as comfortable as an RV.  RV camping provides better protection from the elements along with significant creature comforts that can rival residential environments.  RVs make a really good base camp for a lot of other activites such as riding OHVs, hiking, fishing, hunting, rock hounding and more.

If you choose tent camping, one of your biggest choices will be what kind of tent to buy.  If you have a large family you will need a large tent.  If, on the other hand you plan to do a lot of backpacking, you'll need a very light weight, compact tent.  I've used 10'x14' cabin tents for family camping and a tiny little back packing tent that is really little more than a sleeping bag cover for solo back packing.  Each one is equally enjoyable in its proper environment.

If you decide you'd like the additional creature comforts and security of camping in RV, you'll need to do some research to figure out what kind of RV will work best for you.  There are many options, ranging from relatively inexpensive tent trailers with minimal facilities to huge luxury RVs with amenities that rival high-end residential homes.  Budget may be a significant factor for most people, but intended use and desired lifestyle will also play an important role.  You will need to decide if you want a self-propelled RV (motorhome) or a towable (trailer).  Another option is  truck camper.  There are advantages and disadvantages to each type.  Trailers are usually less expensive, but you also have to consider the cost of a tow vehicle unless you already have a vehicle capable of towing your chosen trailer.  There are many trade offs in choosing between the various options within each category.  Motorhomes range from Class B van conversions that are essentially the same size as a regular full size van, to Class C's, built on a cutaway van or truck chassis, to large Class A units that resemble large buses and, in fact, are sometimes built on bus chassis.  Trailer options begin with small tent trailers and can range up large fifth wheels measuring 35' in length or more.  In between are a variety of "bumper pull", goose-neck, and fifth wheel trailers. Bumper pull trailers use a standard trailer hitch that is usually mounted below the bumper.  Goose-neck trailers have a trailer ball mounted in the middle of a pickup bed.  Fifth wheel trailers connect via a special hitch similar to those used by large semi-trailers, which is also mounted a pickup bed.  The towing characteristics of each type of hitch will be somewhat different so you'll want to research the handling and load capacities and, if possible, try out any options you want to consider BEFORE you buy.  Truck campers allow you to remove the camper from the truck when it is not in use and use the truck for other tasks.  Truck campers tend to be less spacious than motorhomes or trailers and are usually more top heavy.  If you live in a state where there is a lower speed limit for vehicles towing trailers (such as California), you may want to consider whether you can live with longer travel times.  The argument for differential speed limits is based on the assumption that large vehicle are safer at lower speeds and ignores the more pragmatic and scientifically proven "85 Percentile" approach, which recommends universal speed limits should be set to the speed 85% normally driven on a given stretch of road.  Consistent traffic speed has repeatedly been shown to be safer than situations involving "traffic sheer" (different speeds in different lanes, known to be one of the most dangerous practicies), yet many states continue to post differential speeds for trucks and vehicles pulling trailers, thereby creating traffic sheer.

Once you have decided on what type of RV you want, you're likely to face many more tradeoffs before you finally select a specific vehicle.  Some of the normal issues you will face will include new versus used (usually determined up front by budget), age or mileage versus luxury features (you may be able to get luxury features you want and stay within your budget by buying an older model), power versus fuel economy (if you need to tow a boat or OHV trailer  you'll want more power and will probably have to sacrifice fuel economy to get it).  Whether you opt for an older model to get more features or a newer one to minimize mechanical risk and potential maintenance cost, will depend on how badly you want the features and what resources you have (skill, tools, money) to handle additional maintenance.  Some other considerations may include intended use:  do you plan to stay mostly in campgrounds with full hookups or will you be doing a lot of "boondocking"?  Class A motorhomes generally have larger fresh water and waste water holding tanks than Class B or C units and allow you longer boondocking stays.  Class C motorhomes, oddly enough, often offer bunkhouse configurations that provide more beds and may be better suited for large or growing families.  Nearly all modern motorhomes are self-contained and, therefore, suitable for boodocking.

Where you are in your life may be a significant factor in making tradeoffs.   Having a young family will obviously swing things in favor of "bunkhouse" motorhomes with lots of sleeping capacity and room for growth.  And older couple may favor more conveniences and more luxury.  RV manufacturers know this and you'll find that those huge, high end, luxury coaches are often designed mostly for two people.  A young family may want to favor a late model low mileage unit.  An older couple may choose to spend the same amount of money to get an older coach with more amenities.  The longevity and resale value may be more important and of more use to a younger user while comfort and convenience may be more appealing to an older couple.

You may want to consider whether certain accessories or features are essential in your initial purchase,  or whether you can add them on later.  Some features, such as slide-outs, are not practical or cost-effective to add on to existing vehicles.  Things like hydraulic levelers are pretty costly and usually require expensive professional installation.  If you're a moderately good handyman and have the right tools and equipment, you may be able to install awnings yourself and anyone with basic mechanical skills can add wheel simulators to improve the appearance of a rig with standard steel wheels.  Likewise, you can probably add or replace a microwave oven or TV without too much expense or difficulty, but replacing a refrigerator is a much bigger job.

New versus used is often a legitimate question when buying camping equipment or RVs.   So-called "pre-owned" (used) items are less expensive to purchase than new ones, but sometimes repair or maintenance costs may favor buying new, especially if you're not a Do-It-Yourselfer.  If you decide to go with used items, be sure you are aware of any necessary repairs they may need before you buy.  Also consider whether you have the resources (parts, materials, skills, tools, time or money) to affect the repairs or the financial resources to hire someone else to do it.  Used tents, camping stoves, lanterns, and even sleeping bags are often a good bargain.  Some people have concerns about using personal items like sleeping bags but a trip to the dry cleaners should take care of that.  Check tents to be sure all the parts are there and that there are no major rips or tears.  Look out for leaking fuel tanks on stoves and gas lanterns.  They are not easy to repair and can be costly to replace.  You can usually save a LOT of money on used RVs, but shop around to get the best value.  Keep in mind the best value does not always mean the lowest price.  Consider age, mileage, condition, features, and how you plan to use the RV.  Buying a huge luxury motorhome won't be of much use if you plan to mostly visit Forest Service campgrounds that often have size limitations.  And  cute little Class B won't hold more than a couple of people (surprisingly, a lot of large luxury RVs are designed for only two people too).  Are you going to use your RV for a base camp for other outdoor activities?  If so, consider whether the CVWR (Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) is sufficient to accommodate your toys (boats, OHVs, etc).

Perhaps the biggest choice for boaters whether you want a power boat or not.  Power boats will come with most of the mechanical ramifications of any motorized recreational machine.   They give you relative freedom of movement regardless of wind or currents.   Alternatives include things like kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, rowboats, and sailboats.   What you choose will depend on personal preferences and how much effort you are willing to invest in using it.  Power boats require the least effort with sailboats next with human-powered craft  requiring the most effort to use.  Where you plan to use it will also affect which option is best for you.  Not all venues have winds that are suitable for sailing.  Some scenic rivers prohibit power boats.

You will encounter trade offs in choosing gear and equipment to support your camping and related activities.  Cost versus features will often be a factor.  Size and weight versus durability and convenience is also a frequent issue.  Availability of replacement parts may feature in consideration of vintage RVs and equipment.

As you go forth you will be looking at tradeoffs associated with just about every outing.  Where you go and for how long is a frequent factor in choosing a destination.  Do you have enough time to make the trip and enjoy it?  Would there be a better time to go, based on weather, accessibility, and your own personal or family schedule.  You will make tradeoffs regarding menu and supplies, even about clothing.

There are many trade offs to be considered for other activities to be paired with camping.  First, do you even want or need any additional activities?  Then do you prefer group activities with high social interactions or more private and primitive experiences?  Do you enjoy using motorized toys?  Do you already have friends with which you would like to share an activity they enjoy?  Your budget (both available time and money) may help you determine what activities are within your reach and whether you should pursue new or used equipment.

Let the trading begin!

RV Batteries

RV batteries are an essential part of making RVs convenient and comfortable.   On motorhomes there are two separate battery systems:  a starting battery for the engine, and deep cycle coach batteries.  The starting battery functions just like the battery in any other motor vehicle, providing power to start the engine and operate lights and other 12-volt vehicle features, like radios and power windows.  The battery is charged by an alternator driven by the engine.  Deep cycle coach batteries are used to supply power for lights, fans, furnaces, and some electronic devices in the RV.  There may be one or more 12-volt batteries or two or more 6-volt golf cart batteries .  12-volt batteries are connected in parallel to supply higher amperage.  6-volt batteries are connected in series to create 12 volts.  Golf cart batteries are usually stronger, more durable, and can be recharged more times than 12-volt deep cycle batteries.  The house batteries should also be charged by the vehicle alternator whenever the engine is running and the should be separated from the starting battery by a battery isolator.  A battery isolator allows the alternator to charge multiple banks of batteries but prevents them from drawing down each other so you don't drain your starting battery while running your RV lights and accessories.  It is convenient to have a switch to connect battery banks in case your starting battery runs down and you need power from the house batteries to start the engine or the house batteries run down and you need power to start the generator.  Some RVs even have a separate battery dedicated to starting the generator.

Other batteries.  The main focus of this article are the large (and expensive) 12-volt batteries that power your RV systems.  In addition to the 12-volt systems for your engine and your coach there are often other battery powered devices in your RV.  Smoke detectors usually use a 9-volt battery.  Remote controls for TVs, power awnings, etc usually use AA or AAA batteries.  You may have battery powered lights in cabinets or closets.  You may have battery powered lanterns and flashlights.  You will need to test the batteries in these devices regularly, especially before each trip, to be sure they will be functional when you need them.  For convenience, keep a battery tester in your RV or camp kit.  Carry spare batteries with you for all your devices.  And be sure to test your spare batteries before each outing.  They won't do you much good if they're dead.  One trick to keep batteries from running down in items in storage is to put one of the batteries in backwards.

Batteries are a critical component of the 12-volt electrical system that powers most RV lights and fixtures.  Not only do they provide power for the lights, but they also power control boards for furnaces, refrigerators, and hot water heaters.  Most modern furnaces also have a 12-volt fan.  Some older furnaces worked by convection only.  A convection furnace doesn't have a fan but it doesn't distribute the heat as well as a forced air model.  An anomaly of 12-volt furnaces is that when the batteries get low, the fan keeps running after the burner has shut off.  If you wake up in the middle of the night and your furnace is busily blowing cold air, your batteries may be low or you might be out of propane.  If that happens occasionally, (and you're not out of propane) you probably aren't charging your batteries enough during the day.  If it happens frequently, you probably need new batteries or a larger battery bank -- or don't run the furnace so much.

Pretty much all of these batteries are some form of lead-acid batteries.  Lead acid automotive batteries have been around since Cadillac introduced the first electric starters way back in 1912.  The basic design has not changed much in over a hundred years, but there have been some improvements.  Basic batteries use lead plates submerged in a solution containing sulfuric acid and are known as "flooded cell" batteries.   They have removable caps so you can check and replenish the water level as needed.  So-called "maintenance free" batteries are sealed and don't require the frequent addition of water in normal use.  Absorbed Gas Mat (AGM) batteries use saturated mats between the cells instead of liquid, reducing the chance of spillage.   Another option are gel cell batteries, in which the electrolyte, instead of being liquid sulfuric acid is a gel.  Gel cells are usually lighter than other batteries and very unlikely to spill.  By the way, it is best to only add distilled water when batteries need more liquid, but, in an emergency, ordinary tap water can be used.  The damage caused by contaminates in the tap water will be less than allowing the plates to be exposed.  Distilled water isn't very expensive.  It would be a good idea to carry a gallon jug of distilled water in your RV to top off your batteries as needed.  You can buy it at just about any grocery store for a dollar or so a gallon.  While you are at it, grab a cheap turkey baster to use to add water to your batteries.

Modern lithium ion technology has produced batteries that exceed the performance of lead-acid batteries but they are still rather expensive.  Keep an eye on this technology.  I have seen reconditioned medical grade lithium ion batteries offered for sale on ebay at fairly reasonable prices, so they might be worth looking into.   New lithium marine/RV batteries run $250-900 so they are quite a bit more expensive than traditional lead-acid batteries.  From time to time I have seen recycled medical lithium batteries on ebay for a couple hundred bucks, but they are not always available.  You also might need a different charger to properly charge lithium ion batteries.

As the push for hybrid vehicles drives battery technology, new types of batteries are coming on the market.  Some are much lighter than lead-acid batteries and deliver longer life and much better performance, but as of now they are significantly more expensive.  Direct replacement deep cycle lithium ion 12 bolt batteries are currently nearly $700 each, making them about 4 times the cost of a pair of 6-bolt golf cart batteries.  Their longer life might make them pay off in the long run but they are certainly a lot more expensive up front.  High performance, 80 amp lithium ion battery is over $1000 and will give 3,000-5,000 charging cycles.  I've even seen 300 amp batteries but they're big and heavy and expensive :  about $3500 each!  Lithium ion batteries allow you to use close to 100% of the capacity before needing to be recharged.  Lead-acid batteries only deliver about 50% of capacity before the voltage drops below workable levels.  A typical lead-acid 12 volt battery will read 12.volts when fully charged and about 11.4 volts when fully discharged.

Many RVs, (motorhome, trailers, and campers) have a single 12-volt deep cycle battery to provide power for all coach needs.  If you do a lot of boondocking you may find a single battery doesn't have enough reserve capacity to meet your needs.  When that happens you may be able to find a location where you can install a second battery.  Replacing a single 12-volt deep cycle battery with a pair of matching 12-volt batteries in parallel will just about double your reserve capacity.  Replacing a single 12-vole deep cycle battery with a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries in series will usually result in greater reserve capacity and longer battery life.  When installing 6-volt batteries they must be connected in series in order to produce 12 volts to run RV fixtures.  6-volt golf cart batteries are usually larger so you may have to enlarge the battery tray or find extra room someplace else if you want to convert to golf cart batteries. Make sure all connections between batteries are heavy gauge battery cables and that the 6-volt batteries are wired in series to create 12 volts. 6 volt golf cart batteries are usually larger than most 12 volt deep cycle batteries so you may have to modify the battery box and/or hold downs to accommodate them.  Motorhomes will have a separate automotive starting battery.  This should not be a deep cycle battery but in an emergency you may be able to borrow one of your coach batteries to replace a dead starting battery or use it to jump start your engine.  Some motorhomes have a switch on the dashboard that activates relays to connect the coach batteries with the starting batteries when you need extra starting power, precluding the need for jumper cables.   The jump start button can be used to start the vehicle engine using the coach batteries or to start the generator using the vehicle starting battery.   If you install extra batteries it is best to install them as close to the existing battery as possible and run heavy gauge battery cables between the batteries.  Batteries give off volatile gases (hydrogen) when they are being charged so they must be installed in a well ventilated space and should NOT be installed within the living area of an RV.  Suitable locations include outside cabinets and in the engine compartment of a motorhome or on the tongue of a trailer.

There is a growing trend to large battery banks and inverters in large luxury rigs in order to handle a demand for quiet, portable 120-volt power anywhere.  An inverter is a device that changes 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power.    This is convenient for running entertainment systems and microwave ovens.  Some large luxury motorhomes even have large enough battery banks to run residential style 120-volt refrigerators full time, but that takes a lot of batteries and frequent recharging.  Keeping the batteries charged becomes a primary concern.  They can be charged from shore power, an on board generator, or from solar panels.  Solar systems can be expensive but once they are installed you get free power from the sun.  Some RVs have inverters built it.  If yours does not, they can usually be added (if you have sufficient battery reserves).  For small 120-volt devices you can often use a fairly inexpensive inverter that plugs into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt outlet.  Large inverters, say 1500-2000 watts, need to be hardwired with large gauge wire and the output can be routed directly to dedicated outlets.  Some RVs have an option to switch selected outlets from shore/generator power to inverter for added convenience.  But unless you know for sure you have plenty of reserve battery power, running 120-volt appliances on the inverter can draw your batteries down rather quickly.  120-volt appliances will consume power at 10 times the rate of 12-volt appliances of the same amps rating.  It is unlikely that units not designed for large battery banks will have anyplace they can be installed because they batteries take up a lot of room and add a lot of weight.  If you plan to install a large battery bank be sure the compartment floor is adequately supported to support the weight and that it is properly ventilated.  Never install lead acid batteries near any kind of device that may provide a source of ignition for the off-gassing that occurs during charging.  Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging and it is VERY volatile!  The infamous Hindenberg airship that exploded in New Jersey in 1937 was filled with hydrogen, which is why it produced such a spectacular fire and explosion!  BTW, the flames from hydrogen are generally invisible.  Flames from gasoline are usually yellow or orange and natural gas and propane typically produce blue flames.

Proper maintenance is essential for good performance and long life for all batteries.  Some components of proper maintenance include avoiding excessive discharge, correct charging, maintaining tight, clean connections, and maintaining proper electrolyte levels as necessary.  Try not to let your batteries be drawn down until they are "dead" before recharging them, then use the right charging system to restore them to full charge as soon as possible.  Frequently check all battery connections to make sure they are tight and are not becoming corroded.  The terminals that connect the large battery cables to the battery posts are especially susceptible to corrosion and when they get corroded should be removed and cleaned.   The electrolyte levels in all but maintenance free batteries should be checked frequently and kept at about 1/2" above the plates.  A battery filler comes in handy for topping off your batteries.  You can buy them at auto  parts stores.   Or you can use a turkey baster.   Always try to use distilled water to fill batteries so you don't introduce mineral or chemical contaminants that often occur in normal tap water.  However, if you're boondocking when you discover your batteries are low using ordinary tap water would be better than leaving them low.  Filtered water would be preferable to unfiltered water.  You want it to be as contaminant-free as possible.

One sure sign that your battery capacity is insufficient, is when the furnace fan continues to run after the burner has shut off.   That can also happen if you run out or propane, so be sure to check both battery and propane gauges before deciding what to do.  You may wake up cold in the middle of the night and find the furnace blowing cold air.  It is ironic that when the batteries get too low, the circuitry that shuts off the fan fails and the fan continues to run, further depleting the batteries.  If this happens with an old battery it may just mean it is time to replace it.  But if it happens with fairly new batteries or happens often, you probably need to increase your reserve capacity by installing a larger battery, multiple batteries, or converting to 6-volt golf cart batteries.  Of course, make sure you have been keeping your batteries properly charged before running off and blowing a lot of money on new batteries.  If you try to run your furnace for several days and nights without charging your batteries, you can pretty much count on it blowing cold air sooner or later.  If you don't run your generator enough each day or your solar system doesn't get enough exposure (shade or clouds for instance), your batteries are going to suffer.  You can check the state of charge using a voltmeter if your RV doesn't have a battery meter.   A fully charged 12-volt battery should normally read about 12.7 volts.  Be sure to test it without any charging voltage.  Charging voltage is often around 14.2 volts; "float" or maintenance charge should be about 13.8 volts.  Higher voltages will overheat the battery.  I once had a charger board in a converter that went bad and was putting out 18 volts.  It "fried" batteries like crazy!  I had to add water to my coach batteries a couple of times a week until I found out what was causing the electrolyte to boil away.

Here is a table of voltages and what they mean:

     12.7 = fully charged
     12.5 = 85% charged
     12.4 = 65%
     12.3 = 50%
     12.2 = 35%
     12.1 = drained


Battery indicators on the monitor panel don't usually give actual volts, but are calibrated to reflect approximate percentages, usually indicating 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full.  Checking the actual voltage at the batteries will give you a more accurate reading.  For best performance and longer battery life, avoid letting batteries get below 50% charge (12.3 volts) before recharging.  Note that even "dead" batteries should still show about 12 volts.  While that isn't enough to run lights, motors, or appliances, it may be enough to make a big enough spark or heating 0000 steel wool for lighting a fire in survival situation.

Charging your batteries.   The alternator on motorhomes is usually wired to both the starting and coach batteries so it charges them all whenever the engine is running.  It should be connected through a battery isolator that prevents drawing down the starting battery while using lights and appliances in the coach.  A charging circuit can be wired from the alternator through the trailer connector to charge trailer batteries.  If your vehicle and/or trailer doesn't have this circuit it can usually be added at a nominal cost.  Be sure to include a battery isolator so using power in your trailer in camp doesn't run down your starting battery and leave you stranded or disconnect the trailer from the vehicle in camp.  There are two types of battery isolators:  solenoids and diode-based models.  Soleniods are usually less expensive and may have a shorter lifespan than diode models.  In either case they allow current to flow to charge both battery banks but keep a draw on the coach battery from running down the starting battery.  There is often much discussion among RVers about whether charging batteries with the vehicle alternator or the on board generator is better.  If you need a quick charge, using the vehicle alternator is probably your best bet and the engine at idle will most likely not consume much more fuel than the generator.  In camp, coach batteries are usually charged by the the converter whenever you run the generator.   If you use the generator enough, like to run the A/C for several hours on hot days, it will usually be enough, but in cooler weather you may have to schedule some generator time just to keep your batteries charged.   But be aware that the battery charging capabilities of most converters is limited.  Newer "smart" multi-stage converters like Progressive Dynamics "Intelli-power",  have more efficient battery charging systems.  Multi-stage chargers usually sense the battery condition and select one of four modes as necessary to maintain batteries in optimal condition.  The four modes are and their functions are:

     Boost Mode - (14.4 volts) to rapidly bring the battery up to 90% of full Charge.
     Normal Mode - (13.6 volts) to safely complete or maintain the charge.
     Storage Mode - (13.2 volts) to maintain charge with minimal gassing or water loss during                                    periods of  non-use.
     Desulfation Mode - (13.2 volts with 15 minute 14.4 volt burst every 21 hours)

Compare that with the charging circuits on older converters that typically supply a constant voltage of 13.6 volts.  Some may sense when the battery is fully charged and reduce the amperage to maintain a "trickle charge".  The different voltages are required to provide proper charging and maintenance.  Boost mode helps recharge batteries quickly; Normal Mode tops off  and maintains the charge; Storage mode provides a "trickle charge" to compensate for normal voltage drop of batteries that are not in use; Desulfation mode provides a high boost during storage to "burn off" sulfation of the lead plates to maintain electro-chemical efficiency. 

 Lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging.  Hydrogen gas is highly volatile.  It was the gas that exploded in the famous Hindenberg disaster.  Batteries should always be installed outside of the living area in a well ventilated compartment.  Trailer batteries are often installed on the tongue, for excellent ventilation and easy access for maintenance.

An easy and fairly inexpensive alternative to smart converters is to install an automatic automotive battery charger connected to the coach batteries and plugged in so that it charges them whenever there is 120-volt power -- from shore power or from the generator.  When using an external battery charger it is best to disconnect or disable the charger in the converter.  Another way to "quick charge" your RV batteries is to run the vehicle engine.  Estimates show it will use only slightly more gas than running the generator since the alternator is far more efficient at charging the batteries than converters and auxiliary battery chargers.  Of course, solar panels are also a good way to keep your batteries charged -- if you have a large enough array and sufficient sunlight.  You can buy little inexpensive panels that are plug into your cigarette lighter socket and are intended to be placed on the dashboard to provide a small "trickle charge" for helping keep batteries charged in storage.  These will not recharge batteries enough when they are being used when off grid.  Large solar panels are mounted on the RV roof and require a controller to provide proper voltage.  Of course solar panels work best in direct sunlight, so don't expect them to quick charge your batteries if you're parked in the shade.

Maintenance chargers can be used to maintain batteries while in storage.   Often referred to as "trickle chargers" because of the low (1-2 amp) charging current, they are pretty good for keeping batteries charged but not for recharging depleted batteries. If you have a good multi-stage charger connected to your house batteries, you shouldn't need a maintenance charger there, but you may still need one to maintain your starting battery.  The default charging voltage from the converter will usually override charging from automatic or maintenance converters so you may have to disable the converter in order to get the most from your chargers.  Those little solar battery charges that plug into the cigarette lighter are "trickle chargers".  By the way, make sure the lighter is live when the key is off or they won't do anything!

Converters and Inverters.  Converters convert 120 volt AC power to 12 volt DC power to run lights and 12 volt accessories from shore or generator power.  Converters usually include a charging circuit to charge your batteries whenever you have 120 volt power available to the converter.  Inverters change 12 volt DC power into 120 volt AC power so you can run normal household appliances using your RV batteries.  If you want to run any large appliances you will need a very powerful inverter and a large battery bank to support it.

Batteries in storage will lose about 1% of their charge per month, even if they are disconnected.  Because of the parasitic draw of some RV appliances and accessories,  they can be be drawn down a lot faster if not disconnected.  Some RVs come with battery disconnects.  They can be fairly easily and inexpensively added if necessary.  If you don't have a battery tender connected to maintain your batteries while your RV is in storage it is a good idea to disconnect them to avoid any parasitic draw down.  A solar charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter can help keep batteries charged in storage.

Charge!

Finding Water in the Wilderness

Water is one of the basic human needs.  You won't last long without it.  In a survival situation your first priority will probably be shelter .  You can survive only about 3 hours in adverse weather conditions before you succumb to exposure.  In hot times, you need to seek shade.  In colder or wetter times, you'll need shelter to conserve body heat.  Generally you can live about 3 days without water, although some people have survived longer than that and in high temperatures and low humidty or lots of physical activity or if you are one of those people who perspire a lot you won't survive as long.  Thus, finding water will be near the top of the list if you are in a moderate climate that doesn't require immediate shelter or after you've taken care of your shelter needs.

In forest and mountain areas you may be able to find natural sources of water:  springs, streams, ponds, lakes, snow and ice.  However, even water that looks clean is often contaminated with biological or toxic substances that could kill you faster than dehydration.  It is best to boil water from natural sources before drinking it or using it to cleanse wounds.  There is some argument about how long you need to boil it to kill germs, but the general thinking now is that you only need to bring it to a boil.  Note:  boiling does NOT remove toxins!  If the water is contaminated with toxic chemicals, like arsenic near or downstream from old mining and smelting sites, it would still be dangerous after boiling.  In fact, boiling may concentrate chemicals as clean water is converted to steam.  Removal of toxins might require special filters or chemicals that would neutralize the bad stuff, neither of which you're likely to be carrying  around with you in a survival situation.  Some filtered water bottles are capable of removing at least some toxins.  Mountain tops often retain patches of snow or ice long into the summer months and these can be a possible source of water.  Clean snow is usually pretty safe but it may still be contaminated.  To be absolutely sure it is biologically pure, melt the snow and boil the water and let it cool before drinking it.  One way of getting really pure water is to capture steam from boiling water and condense it back to liquid.  You can get small amounts by soaking up the steam in a bandanna, letting it cool enough to condense the steam, then squeezing out the water for drinking.  For larger quantities you will need some kind of still where you can boil water and capture and condense the steam.  An easy way to turn small amounts of contaminated water, antifreeze, or even urine into fresh water is via a solar still.  Dig a small hole in the ground and place a cup or other container in the center of the hole.  Pour the water you need to purify around the cup.  Cover the hole with plastic, securing the edges tightly with stones, dirt or other heavy objects.  Place small rock or other object in the center of the plastic directly over the cup so it pulls the plastic down in the middle.  As solar heat evaporates the water in the hole it will condense on the inside of the plastic, run down towards the rock in the  center, and drip into the cup.

Rain and snow are usually thought be "pure" and, usually, they are safe for a drinking water source.   However, if you consider that rain drops first begin to form around dust particles in the air you can see that even fresh rain contains some contaminants.  Rain from areas with high air pollution can be even worse, even to the point of becoming "acid rain".  In a wilderness survival situation it is likely using rain or clean snow to stay hydrated will be pretty safe, unless the rain tastes really bad -- or the snow is yellow.  Unlike sno-cones, yellow snow in nature probably won't be lemon or beer flavored!

In dryer environments, like deserts, finding water is much more difficult.   On rare occasions you might find an oasis with a spring or a stream.   Even if the stream appears dry there might still be some water in the ground, especially under rocks or overhanging banks.  The most likely place to find residual water is along the outside bank of curves in the stream.  To find possible stream beds in the desert look for patches or strips of green vegetation or watch animals and insects that might lead you to their sources of water.. You might get water from desert plants like cactus and prickly pear.  The juice from these plants may not be very palatable, but it might give you enough moisture to extend your survival time.  Don't use it if the liquid is milky or smells bad or tastes bitter as that usually indicates it is poisonous.  Even if it isn't poisonous, you may loose more of your precious body fluids by throwing up than you gain from trying drink nasty tasting stuff.  Prickly pear is a safe source of both water and nutrition.   Even vegetation that appears dry will  have some moisture in it if it is still alive.  Sometimes you can extract water from plants using a kind of solar still.  Wrap a section of the growing plant in plastic, sealing it as well as you can.  The heat from the sun should evaporate water from the plant.  When the plastic cools (usually at night), the moisture inside the plastic will condense on the inside surface and you can collect a small amount of water for drinking or medical uses.  Water collected in this manner does not have to be boiled.  You can also use a solar still (as described above)  to reclaim your own urine and extract drinkable water from vehicle coolant (most radiator fluid is 50% water).  Dig a small hole and place a cup in the bottom.  Soak the area around the cup with urine or radiator fluid.  Cover the pit with plastic and place a small stone in the middle so it forms a dent in the plastic directly over the cup.  As solar heat evaporates the liquid in the pit, it will condense on the plastic and drip into the cup.  Blood from animals you get for food might also be put into the pit.  Since most animal blood, including human, is quite salty, it is unlikely you'll get any hydration benefits from drinking the blood directly, but the water that evaporates from it in the pit would be usable.  A downside of putting blood into the pit is that it may attract varmints or may introduce a nasty smell as it decomposes.  Despite how dry things may seem, there may be some moisture in the air that will condense into dew at night.  Look to soak up dew from the leaves of plants or turn over a rock so the moisture can condense on the freshly exposed cooler underside.  Soak up the dew with a handkerchief  or other article of clothing and wring it out into a container or directly into your mouth.

Drink up!

Trading RVs

It is very likely that if you own an RV, sooner or later you will make a change -- up size, down size, or replace a worn out, or damaged or stolen unit or you may just find one you like better.  Changes in family size, camping interests, wants, and lifestyle may all contribute to the motivation to trade.  Your family may outgrow a rig or, as kids leave home, you might want a smaller unit.  Should you get in an accident with your RV or experience a fire or a catastrophic mechanical failure, you may be forced to make a trade.  Or you may just get tired of the one you have and want something you perceive as better meeting your needs and wants.  Manufacturers are constantly making improvements that you may find attractive and useful.   Regardless of the reason for making a trade, there are several things to consider.  If your RV was damaged you might want to seek an exact replacement if you were happy with the old  unit.  Any other motivation for change will automatically dictate some of the parameters you will want to use in choosing your next unit.

Carefully consider what features you MUST have along with those options you would LIKE to have.  Must-haves are those features that are necessary for the RV to serve your needs.  Some typical examples are the number of beds, size and placement of the bedroom, length, horsepower, generator, and holding tank capacity.  The length may be determined by how and where you plan to use your RV.  If you want to visit a lot of Forest Service campgrounds where there are size limitations you will need to have an RV that doesn't exceed those restrictions.  The number of beds needed will be determined by your family size, or the number of guests you plan to take camping with you regularly.  Occasional, short term guests, like grand kids, might accommodated on the floor or in an attached awning room or even a tent, but if you have family of 6 that regularly goes out together, you'll want an RV with room to sleep six.   Having already had some experience owning and driving an RV, you may have some thoughts on horsepower.  Was your old unit under powered?  A larger engine will likely decrease fuel economy but improve performance and increase towing capacity.  If you routinely tow a boat, a dingy, or an OHV trailer, you need to make sure your motorhome has sufficient towing capacity.  In improperly sized receiver would make towing dangerous and often illegal.  Too little power (torque is often a better measure of towing capacity that horsepower) can make driving frustrating and may also cause dangerous situations if you are unable to accelerate adequately when entering freeway on ramps or climbing hills.  Under powered vehicle are also likely to experience premature drive train failures.  If you always stay in full hook-up campgrounds a generator may not be a must-have for you, but it will be if you do a lot of boondocking.  Even if you are frugal and avoid running the roof A/C you still need to run the generator enough each day to keep your batteries charged unless you have a solar charging system or are willing to run the vehicle engine.  Holding tank capacity, likewise, won't be an issue if you camp only in campgrounds with hook ups, but is very critical when boondocking.  Your camping experiences will be frustrating or cut short if you don't have enough on board fresh water or enough room in your gray and black water holding tanks.  Fresh water and waste water tanks on Class A motorhomes are usually larger than you'll typically find on Class Cs.  While a Class C may be a desirable size for Forest Service and National Park campgrounds, it may lack sufficient holding tank reserves to keep you going for more than a few days.  We discovered that when we downsized to a Class C a few years ago and found the small, 25 gallon fresh water tank wasn't even enough to get even two of us through  3-day weekend camping in the Mojave Desert.  At least not without some major adjustments to habits we'd developed over years of camping with sufficient resources.  Downsizing from a family of 8 to just the two of us did not reduce our water consumption by 3/4ths but it did reduce the capacity from 100 gallons to 25 gallons!

You may have to make some compromises based on your budget and the availability of qualifying vehicles.  When that happens, look for ways to get the most out of your purchase.  For example, if you have a strong desire for the extra space provided by slide outs but don't have the budget for a rig that has them, look for units that have fairly open floor plans that make them more appealing.  If you find a unit that meets your other requirements you might be able improve the open area by removing lounge chairs from the salon area if you don't have a strong need or desire for them.

When it comes times to make a change it pays to do some research and shop around.  If you have the budget for brand new unit you can go to a dealer and order one to meet your specifications but a lot of folks are going to be buying pre-owned units.  The variety of makes, models, ages, mileage, features, and prices can be truly amazing and sometimes confusing.  Suffice it to say you can usually find many choices and can very likely find a very acceptable unit, with low miles, within your price range.  Be very leery of significantly under priced units.  That usually indicates some major problems you may not want to deal with, often hidden problems.  It may take a little time and perhaps even some travel, to explore your options, so give yourself plenty of time and don't rush to buy the first thing you see.  If you have done your planning correctly you will be able to focus on appropriate vehicles that will meet your minimum requirements so you don't waste time looking at stuff that you wouldn't even consider.  Be sure to do a thorough inspection and test drive each one you are considering.  Check maintenance records if they are available.  If you aren't knowledgeable or comfortable verifying mechanical condition, take it to a qualified mechanic to have it checked out.  Yeah, you'll have to fork over some dough for his services, but it could save you from making a VERY expensive mistake.

You will probably have to consider some trade offs as you evaluate possible purchases.   Once you have decided what your budget is, you are likely to find a variety of choices.  You may find some newer, low mileage units and some older, more luxurious RVs for about the same price.  You will have to decide whether the low miles or the luxury features are more important to you.  Given the low usage many RVs get you may be able to get an older, low mileage luxury RV.  In that case your trade off is age versus price and features.  And older, low mileage RV might be a good deal, but it could also be a source of frustration if it needs work, now or in the future.  There is usually enough interchangeability in appliances and even mechanical parts that those repairs are possible, but  body damage on older units can be difficult or even impossible to find matching parts to fix them properly.  If the unit is in good shape and has extra features you find desirable, you may get more enjoyment out of it than you would a newer, less well equipped unit at a similar price.  Whether your have the resources (tools, skills, facilities and/or money) to perform needed work may also be a factor.  If you aren't prepared to take care of existing or future problems, it may slant your decision in favor of a newer unit.

Should you trade in your old RV or try to sell it privately?  Using your old RV as a trade in will usually cover the down payment so you don't have to come up with extra cash.  However, if you are able to sell you RV yourself, you can sometimes get more than the trade in allowance for it and come out ahead.  Of course there may be advertising costs associated with selling it yourself and it may take some time, perhaps so much time the the replacement unit you identified might no longer be available when you get the money for it.  Trading in your unit is usually quicker and more convenient and you won't have to invest time or money in detailing it for sale.

Whenever you change units you'll be faced with emptying your personal belongings out of your old RV and loading them into your "new" one.  This can often be a much larger task than you anticipate, especially if you've had your old RV for some time.  When trading cars you can usually just move your "stuff" from the old car to the new one right at the sales lot, but moving out of one motorhome and into another one is more like moving from one apartment to another!  You might be surprised at how much stuff you've squirreled away over the years!  Plan on spending at least a day or two emptying out our old rig and at least as much if not more to move into and organize your new home one wheels. It provides you a good opportunity to lighten the load.  Transfer only what you need to the new unit and get rid of duplicates and excess clutter you never use.  I once found at least 4 12-volt work lights in the various compartments of my RV that I had accumulated over the years.  I'm sure I thought I had a good reason for buying each one, but I don't think it is really necessary to haul that many around all the time.  Chances are I forgot I even had some of them.  This is also a good time to take inventory and refresh your memory of what you have and where it is so you CAN make use of it.  Anything that is buried in the back or bottom of a seldom used storage compartment where you a) can't get to it when you need and b) forget you even have it, is just excess baggage that adds to weight that can reduce performance and fuel economy -- and may take up room you could use for something that is actually useful.  Take time to think through how you can best organize things in you new unit so they'll be safe during travel and accessible when you want to use them.

Anytime you make a trade it should in some way improve your situation.  Whether you are getting larger or smaller  rig to better meet your current needs, going for additional amenities, increasing fuel economy or reducing payments, be sure you new unit meets your expectations.  It is really easy  to fall for "eye candy" appeal of a particularly flashy or attractive rig and lose sight of your original goal.

Trade up!

What If You Wreck Your RV?

Traffic accidents involving RVs are relatively infrequent, but they still happen.  In addition, some of the places we go in our RVs can subject them to unusual risks.  Misjudging vertical or horizontal clearance can result in the loss of a roof air conditioner or an awning.  Moving an RV with a slideout extended can cause serious damage.  Of course prevention is the best remedy, so always be sure of overhead and side-to-side clearances before proceeding.  Another frequent RV mishap occurs when backing into a campsite.  You back into or over an unseen obstacle and cause property damage and/or significant damage to your RV.  Look before you back and, if there is any risk, have someone stand behind your RV and guide you.   Your vehicle liability insurance should cover the property damage, but not damage to your RV.  For that you need collision and comprehensive coverage

A valuable protection against the affects of damage to your RV is to have the right insurance.  Liability insurance is required to operate your RV on public roads.  That protects the other driver or the owner of property you might run into and protects you against their cost of repairs and/or medical expenses, but it doesn't reimburse you for damage to your vehicle.  For that you need Full Collision and Comprehensive coverage.  Collision coverage covers just that:  collisions.  You may collide with another vehicle, a pedestrian, or an obstacle.  Comprehensive usually covers things like glass breakage and good policies will cover accessories like awnings and antennas as well as wind and hail damage.  You will pay higher premiums for full coverage, but it may be worth it.  Considering the cost of even vintage RVs, full insurance coverage usually makes good sense if you can get it and if you can afford it.  Most likely you won't be able to get full coverage on an RV with a salvage title, even if it has been completely repaired and the cost of coverage on some older units may cost more than you're willing to pay.  The age and condition of the vehicle may also affect whether or not a company will insure it.

Insurance covered repairs for older RVs can sometimes be confusing or even problematic.  As units age it parts get harder to find, especially body parts.  A relatively minor accident might damage your RV so that is considered "totaled" by the insurance company.  That simply means that it will cost more to repair it than to replace it -- theoretically.  The question becomes, what is the value of your RV?  Some, but not all, can be found in the NADA Guides (www.nadaguides.com).  As units get older there aren't enough transactions to establish a NADA price.  When that happens the insurance company will have an appraiser set the value of your RV.  You will want to make sure the appraiser is aware of any special additions or modifications you've made that might affect the value.  If , for example, you recently installed a new engine or have made significant improvements or modifications that don't appear in the options list in the Nada Guide.  You may also find it very difficult or even impossible to find an exact replacement and will have to look for an alternative.  Before accepting that check from the insurance company, do some research of your own to determine the replacement cost of your vehicle.  If you can't find any exact replacements, get the cost of comparably sized and equipped units of the same age. You may be able to negotiate a better settlement from the insurance company.  Once you cash the check you absolve the insurance company from any further liability.  If yours is a rare model you may have to put some effort into establishing an accurate value -- and then you may have difficulty finding a replacement.

If  your vehicle is considered totaled there are several things  you can expect.  In most states the title will be marked "SALVAGE", which typically reduces the market and the price you could possibly get for the RV if you should choose to repair it.  Your insurance company will drop your full coverage and, even if you get it fully repaired, might not ever reinstate it, based on the fact that once totaled, it has no value, at least in their view.  You have the right to keep the vehicle and either have it repaired or dispose of it yourself.  If you do, the insurance company will deduct a "salvage value" from your payment.  You should find out what that deduction is before you decide to go that route.  You may want to keep the wrecked vehicle to scavenge accessories or parts to use on your replacement vehicle if the salvage value isn't too high, even if it isn't worth repairing.  If you chose not to keep the vehicle, the insurance company will sell it to a salvage yard and they'll come and take it away.  If you suspect your vehicle will be declared a total loss you'll probably want to do some research to determine what it will cost to replace it with a similar vehicle so you can be comfortable with the payout.  If yours is an older and somewhat rare RV it may be very difficult to establish or prove a current value.  In that case you might collect prices for the nearest comparable vehicles.  If the offer from the insurance company is way below what you believe it will cost to replace your vehicle you can negotiate with them.  That's where it is important to have some relevant research readily available to justify YOUR appraisal.  Rare or unusual vehicles won't show up in used car price guides so you may have to do your own research to find similar vehicles for sale or recent sales of similar vehicles to establish your own evaluation.  I had a vintage RV for which there were no local comparisons.  The only similar rigs I could find on the Internet were in Australia and the prices were significantly higher than the insurance payout on my "totaled" vehicle and were ignored by the insurance company in establishing the value for payout.

Why would you want to keep a damaged vehicle?   Normally, people have little or no interest in hanging on to a totaled vehicle but there may be times when it makes sense.  A particularly unique RV might be worth fixing regardless of what the insurance company says.  You may also have accessories and features you added that you might want to transfer to a replacement vehicle.  In that case you need to compare the cost of new items to the salvage value.  Also whether than even can be transferred to another vehicle. And don't forget to include the labor cost for removing them from the wrecked vehicle and installing them on the replacement.  You may think you can find a buyer who will pay you more than the salvage value claimed by the insurance company.  Be very careful here.  Most likely anyone willing to buy a salvage vehicle will have detailed knowledge about the salvage value and won't be likely to pay more.  Why should they?  Unless your vehicle is extremely rare and desirable, they can go buy another wreck somewhere else.  We kept a totaled sailboat.  The salvage value was low and, at least in our opinion, it could be repaired if we could find used replacement parts somewhere.  We also thought it would make a nice playhouse for our grand kids!

If your RV is truly unique and/or you REALLY like it, you might want try to get it repaired even if the insurance company decides it is a total loss.  You will want to be careful if you choose to consider this option.  Sometimes replacement parts are simply not available and you may have to wait years to find what you need in a junk yard.  Often the repair costs will be much higher than you might expect, so be sure to have a detailed, guaranteed estimate from a reliable shop so you know what it is going to cost.  You will have to live with a "SALVAGE" title, which will affect insurability and future resale value.  If you are unable to find replacement parts you may have to live with less-than-perfect repairs.  If you expect you'll want to keep and repair your wrecked RV, be sure to exercise your option to pay the salvage value right away.  If you accept full payment, the rig then belongs to the insurance company and you no longer have any rights to it.  You might be able to buy it back from them after the fact, but chances you'll be successful aren't very good and you will probably have to pay more than the proposed salvage value.

Your insurance rates are likely to increase when you file a claim.  Some companies offer "accident forgiveness" for the first one.   If not, your rates may stay higher for as long as 3 years.  You may want to consider that in your decision on whether to file or not if the damage is minor. I've seen premiums double because of even fairly small claims.

Sometimes having a vehicle declared a total loss is an opportunity for you to make some desired changes.  Chances are the insurance settlement will be higher than any trade-in value you might get from a dealer if you wanted to change units since it will be based on retail market value.  If you're lucky, it may even be more than you would get selling it privately before the accident.  It may be chance for you to up-size or down-size, depending on your situation, or to get a newer unit with features you want that your old one didn't have or you can be rid of some features you didn't like on the old rig. 

Safe motoring!

RV Stoves

RV ranges and stoves are designed to emulate the ones in your home.  Basically they look about the same, only smaller.  However, there are some differences you should be aware of.  Most RVs have a gas stove.  Some luxury units have an electric cook top instead. 

The first major difference you will notice is size.  Residential range/oven combinations are typically about 30" wide.  RV ranges are litte more than half that size, normally 17" wide.  This affects more than appearance and available cooking space.  The smaller oven means the burners are closer to the cooking platforms so getting even heating is more difficult.  You may have to experiment with your oven a bit to determine the right combination of heat and time to make it work to your satisfaction.  To get things cooked all the way through may require longer cooking at lower temperatures (to avoid burning the bottom).  Smaller burners on the stove top may mean longer cooking times as well as limiting the size of skillets or pots that can be used.

RV ovens don't normally have a light inside, at least not the older ones.  That means you have to open the door and shine a flashlight inside to see how things are going.  Each time you open the door you let heat escape so that is going to affect cooking times.  While some newer models are starting to include oven lights, chances are you aren't going to see them very often.  And they aren't something that can be added easily to an existing older oven.  They require heatproof wiring, fixtures and bulbs that are not readily available or easy to install.

Most RV ranges are powered by propane but a few luxury models may have an electric cook top.  Electric cook tops are very visually appealing but you have to to have shore power, an inverter with LOTS of batteries, a big solar system, or have the generator running to use it.  A gas stove can be used anytime as long as you have propane to run it.

RV range burners usually have to be lit manually while your gas stove at home probably has electronic ignition that lights the burner when you turn on the knob.   Most RV ranges are designed so the gas flows immediately to the burner when the knob is turned on and will continue flowing as long as the knob is on, whether the burner is lit or not.  Always have your match or lighter ready to light the burner as soon as you turn the knob to avoid releasing excess gas into the living space.  If too much gas escapes before you light the burner you'll likely blow yourself up as soon as you strike your match or light your lighter!  Some RV ranges will have pilot lights that will stay lit after you turn the burner off.  The knobs on these should indicate a "pilot" position as well as an "off" position.  You can take advantage of the pilot lights to make using the range more convenient while you're actively cooking, but is it a good idea to turn them all the way off between meals to conserve fuel and critical to turn them all the way off when traveling for safety.  Some newer and fancier RV ranges include thermocouples on the burners to prevent gas from flowing unless the burner is lit but most in use today do not.  Thermocouples are commonly used on older water heaters and refrigerators, but not on stoves.  The thermocouple generates a small electric current when it is heated and this current is used to operate a solenoid to open the main gas valve to the burner.  If the burner goes out, the thermocouple no longer generates any electricity, the solenoid closes, and the gas flow stops.  On a device equipped with thermocouples you usually have to push and hold a valve to allow gas to flow temporarily until the burner lights and activates the thermocouple.  Most modern water heaters and refrigerators use a computer board and sensors to control gas flow and ignition so you don't have to think about it or do anything other than turning on the switch.

Cleaning and maintenance is about the same as for your residential range.   And you will want to periodically clean the openings on the burners.  Using aluminum foil to line the bottom of the oven will reduce the frequency and effort of oven cleaning.  Most ranges have painted/ceramic or stainless steel finish.  Be careful when cleaning them and avoid using highly abrasive cleansers which can damage the finish.  If you must use cleanser, opt for soft scrub versions like BonAmi or Bar Keeper's Friend.  Scouring marks on stainless steel can sometimes be mitigated by carefully polishing it using fine steel wool.  Be sure to rub in  the same direction as the surrounding pattern.  The exterior of ranges and ovens can be refinished using appliance paint if they have become badly stained or if you just want to change the color.  Don't paint them with regular spray paint!  It won't stand  up to the temperatures.

If your RV range has failed you might find it easier and less expensive to replace it with an outdoor oven, such as those offered by Camp Chef and Coleman. These are propane powered, standalone units with 2 gas burners on top and a small oven beneath.  Since they require no hookups they are easy to use in a unit that doesn't have a functional range.  Since they aren't designed for indoor use, make sure you provide adequate ventilation when using one in your RV.  Or, even better, just cook outside, where its more fun anyway!

RV stoves and ovens are designed for cooking, not area heating.  They do produce a significant amount of heat.  Avoid using the stove or oven in your RV on hot days to avoid higher interior temperatures.  Cooking on cooler days may help warm things up inside your RV.  But do not use a stove or oven just to heat your RV!  They are not designed for that purpose and attempting to use them as heaters can result in dangerous, even life threatening, conditions.

An RV range and oven can provide a lot of service and convenience in camp.  If you consider its limitations and adjust your cooking and baking accordingly, you can enjoy nearly full residential functionality without too much frustration and they are a whole lot easier to use and a camp stove or a campfire.  They are usually ready to use in an instant and you usually have good control over the heat.

Happy cooking and baking!

End of Season

Is there EVER an end to the camping season?  Well, yes and no.  It is true that summer is the most popular season for camping, but you can camp in spring, fall, and even winter, when base camps support winter sports such as cross country skiing, snowmobiling, hunting, and ice fishing.

It is the middle of September and the "normal" camping season is winding down.  With the kids back in school, you've probably already done your "last harrah" family outing before summer ended -- or just maybe you still have time for one more!  It is likely that end of season sales on camping equipment already started back in July or August, but there might still be some bargains to be found.  It won't  hurt to check around at your favorite retailers.  You might find exceptionally good deals on anything that might still be left since they need to move it out quickly to make room for winter stock.  Always look for seasonal sales and "manger specials" at retail stores to get the best deals.  You may also see camping stuff showing up in garage sales and online as people wrap up their current seasons and dispose of unwanted gear before they have to find a place to store it.

Its just about time to be thinking about winter storage.  Tent campers probably already have their stuff safely tucked away after the last trip but it might be worth pulling it out and doing a quick inventory to make sure everything is clean and in good repair and properly stored.  Leaving things dirty while in storage for long periods invites additional damage.  If tents, canopies, or sleeping bags aren't thoroughly dry when put into storage they can be ruined by the time you get them out again.  Any cooking residue left on stoves, grills, pots and pans, and utensils will attract bugs, rodents, and bacteria that will make a real mess to be dealt with next spring.  Make sure you know where everything is so you don't have to go on a major hunt for it next season.  Now is also a good time to inventory your gear and supplies and make a list of any needed repairs, replacements, or additions.  That way you can spread the cost out over the winter months when there is no urgency.

You may not need or want to put everything in storage just yet, but it is still a good time to start thinking about it and planning for it so that when the times does come, you'll be ready.  For example, if you need to winterize the fresh water system on your RV you can start looking for good prices on Marine/RV antifreeze (the pink stuff) and stock up on it even if freezing weather is still weeks or months away.  When you winterize your RV, don't forget to drain the hot water heater.  It will save a lot of antifreeze if you have a bypass system to bypass the hot water heater when filling the water lines with antifreeze.  If your RV doesn't have one, you can purchase one for about $20 and can probably install it yourself.  Given  that the 6 gallons of antifreeze can cost $30, a bypass kit pays for itself right away, saving you both time and money.  It will also save time time when you de-winterize your rig next spring.

RVs and OHVs that won't be used for several months should be winterized and properly stored.  The degree of winterization required will depend on the climate where the vehicles are stored.   Some things, like checking fluid levels and makings sure cabinets are free from spills that would attract pets should be done not matter what kind of climate you live in but full winterization to prevent freeze damage is required if you live where you get freezing overnight temperatures.  Coolant should be checked to verify it contains enough antifreeze to protect the engines in RVs, OHVs, adn tow vehicles against expected low temperatures.  Coach water systems MUST be freeze protected in cold climates.  Any provisions that may be damaged by freezing should be removed and stored in a warm place.  Holding tanks on RVs should be dumped and thoroughly flushed before storage so foul odors don't permeate the furnishings during storage.  Then add RV antifreeze to the holding tanks to protect the dump valves.  Batteries should be kept on a maintenance charger or removed and stored where they won't freeze.  If possible, store RVs and OHVs in a garage or shed so they'll be out of the winter weather.  Lacking a suitable structure, consider purchasing an RV cover.  They only cost a few hundred dollars and are likely to pay for themselves in just a single season by protecting paint, decals, curtains, and exposed upholstery.  You may see people using ordinary cheap tarps to cover their RVs.  While this does block sunlight and usually protects against precipitation, they also trap moisture and are sometimes abrasive enough to damage the finish.  RV covers are made of  soft breathable fabrics that avoid these problems and are usually designed so they fit better.  Because they are designed to fit they are usually easier to install and their built-in anchor systems keep them in place during windy weather better than attaching a tarp with ropes or bungee cords.  By the way, if you MUST use a tarp, one simple way of anchoring it without damaging the vehicle is to fill empty bleach jugs with water (or, even better, old antifreeze) and hang them from the grommets on the tarp.  Be careful if you just fill them with water if you expect or experience freezing temperatures.   In a pinch  you can lower the freeze point a few degrees by adding salt to the water.  Plain water freezes at 32° F.   Salt water, fully saturated with salt (about 23% salt by weight) freezes at  -21° F.  If the jugs freeze they may crack and then the water will all leak out and your weights will become useless.  You may come out to find your tarp blown off or blown away.  Any crumbs or spills in and around your RV should be thoroughly cleaned up to avoid attracting pests.  You might even want to place some mouse bait in strategic locations to discourage the nasty little critters from taking up residence in your mobile residence.  I prefer using bait over traps.  Products like D-con not only kill rodents, but also contain a desiccant that causes their bodies to dry out instead of decaying and creating bad odors if they die inside the walls.  You may still have to dispose of their little mummified remains that are likely to be hiding beneath the bottom drawers or other out of the way places.

You will need to protect OHVs that have liquid cooled engines with the proper antifreeze.  It is also a good idea to drain the fuel tanks and the fuel lines and carburetors before storage.  Start the engine, turn off the gas, and let it run out of fuel so there won't be old fuel turning to varnish in th e carbuertor.  If, for any reason, you choose to leave fuel in the tank, treat it with a fuel additive like Sta-bil to minimize deterioration during storage. These simple steps of prevention can avoid costly service to get your machine running again next spring.  I've found it typically costs $80-$100 to get the gunk cleaned out of the fuel system.  So much better to drain the tank and run all the fuel out of the carburetor before you put your OHV into storage.  A light coat of oil on drive chains and other ferrous metal parts will prevent rust.

Fuel systems on RVs and OHVs that will not be used for several months should be drained or treated with a fuel additive such as Sta-bil.  You can usually drain the fuel tanks on OHVs pretty easily, then run the engine until all the fuel remaining in the lines and carburetor is used up.  Draining the large fuel tanks on other motor vehicles usually isn't practical.  Add enough Sta-bil for the tank capacity and top off the tank before storage.  A full tank will collect less moisture and condensation than an empty one, reducing the chance of water in the fuel line.

Propane powered camping stoves and lanterns usually only need to be cleaned before storage --  once the fuel canister has been removed.  Gasoline should be drained or treated with Sta-bil just like an OHV or vehicle engine.  Battery powered lanterns with removable batteries should have the batteries removed.  Rechargeable lanterns should be plugged in periodically to keep the batteries charged.   A convenient trick to to plug them into a timer so they aren't always being charged.  Overcharging can sometimes damage the batteries.

Proper storage will avoid unnecessary damage during the off season and make getting ready for your first out next season a lot easier and less expensive!

Tent campers will also need to store their tents and other equipment.  Tents and sleeping bags should be clean and dry before being stored.  Sleeping bags should not be rolled tightly.  Hang them so they can air out an restore loft if you can.  If not, pack them loosely in "stuff sacks".  Try to repair any damage before you put things into storage.  Make sure your pots, pans, utensils, dinnerware, and silverware are clean.  Remove perishable food and medical items before storage and, if your stuff will be stored will be stored where it could freeze, remove any liquids that might freeze.  Clean all your tools and coat metal surfaces with a light coating of oil to prevent rust.  This is also a good time to check for damage and make a list of those that need repair or replacement.   Drain fuel from gasoline stoves and lanterns.  Remove batteries from battery powered gadgets and store the batteries indoors.  You might want to include mouse bait near where  you store your stuff to minimize the chance of rodents infesting things.

After you've got all your gear and equipment taken care of, you can turn your attention to yourself.  You'll probably be facing an extended vacation from your favorite outdoor activities, especially if you live in northern climates with four real seasons.  Some people have enough winter activities that they don't miss camping, but many people will be getting a serious case of cabin fever long before Spring arrives and you can once again enjoy  your outings.  There are a number of fun and productive things you can do during the off season.  I find it is a good time to inventory, repair, clean, and detail my RV, camping and OHV equipment.  It may a good time for installing upgrades to your equipment.  You can also organize your photos and notes from last season's outings and begin making plans for next year.  Plan a regular exercise program to help stave off holiday weight gain and stay in shape so you'll be ready when Spring finally arrives.

And don't forget the end of season sales!  Even though some may have started months ago you may still find good buys on  closeouts of seasonal merchandise.  It is great time to try out new gadgets, replace damaged or outdated gear, or stock up on things you use often.  It might also be a goo time to look for bargains on ebay, craigslist, and at garage sales and thrift stores.

End of season is a good time to review this season's activities.   Remember, enjoy, and perhaps document notable outings.Organize and make notes on the photos you took during your trips.  Review the "to do"lists from each of your recent outings to make sure you've taken care of everything that needed attention.  Perhaps this upcoming "off season" will be a good time to take care of some postponed repairs or upgrades.  Sometimes not taking as many trips will leave a little more in the budget for desirable improvements you wanted to make to your RV, OHV, or camping equipment along with the time to do them.  And that is a fun way to stay connected to your camping needs when the weather doesn't lend itself to your usual activities.

Rest easy!

Road Trips

Road trips are traditional ways for many people, including families, to visit relatives and tour different parts of the country.  Some people take road trips just for the fun of it too.  The high cost of gasoline has put a damper on some road trips, but they can still be a comparatively economical way to travel, especially for families.  While traveling in a large RV may consume lots of fuel at ridiculously high prices, leveraging the cost across several family members makes it fairly reasonable.  Say you have an RV that gets 7 mpg and you have a family of four.  That calculates to 28 passenger miles per gallon.  Another advantage of traveling by RV or making camping part of our trip is savings on food and lodging.  Instead of constantly forking out big bucks for over-priced food and hotel/motel rooms, you can stay in campgrounds and cook in camp, usually saving  a lot of money.  For example, a family of four is likely to pay around $30-40 for a meal even in a fast food restaurant and closer to $60-80 or more in a nicer sit-down establishment.  Four people will probably need at least 2 rooms each night at a very conservative estimate of $50/room per night or $100 a night.  A week on the road could easily cost a family of four $700 in lodging and $900 in food.  Compare that to staying in campgrounds at under $40 per night (for all four people) and preparing most meals in camp and probably spending about the same you would for food at home and the cost comes way down.  We found a small private campground on a recent trip where we were able to get tent site for just $7.00 when the cheapest motels in the same area were way more than $50 a night.

But cost savings are not the only reason for taking road trips and camping along the way.  The experience itself is the major factor.  You and your traveling companions will share many sights and activities along the way -- if you plan properly.  If you hit the road with little or no planning you may still have a fun and spontaneous trip, but even that means a certain amount of preparation.  There are many attractions along our major highways, and even more a short distance off the main routes if you take time to look for them.   A lot of the preparation for a spontaneous road trip is mental.  Give yourselves permission and allow time to explore things along the way.  Plan to stop for ice cream or visit a road side fruit stand or just take time to stop and read some of the historical markers along the way.  In today's world our focus is often so much on the destination that we fail to enjoy the journey.

While RVs are often the most convenient way to take a road trip, you can take one in your family car or by motorcycle.   You will have to plan on finding gas stations or rest areas for necessary rest stops but fuel costs will most likely be substantially reduced.  You will want to pack your car so that you have convenient access to drinks and snacks along the way.  You will probably want to keep sweaters and jackets handy too, in case you run into inclement weather.  Sunglasses are essential for bright days.  You'll probably want to have a camera ready to capture special sites and outstanding views along the way.  If you have young children you will want to plan games or other activities to keep them occupied.  The entertainment systems available in many modern vehicles, including DVD players can turn "are we there yet" to "are we there already?"

Not all highways or even sections of the same highway are the same.  Some places are overflowing with areas of historic, scenic, and/or geologic interest.  In these sections you may have trouble allocating enough time on a trip to accommodate all the things you want to do and see.  Yet there may also be long stretches of road with little or nothing to see or do.  I have driven I-5 through the Central Valley of California many times and while there are interesting side trips available if you plan ahead or watch for them, cruising for hundreds of miles along a mostly flat, mostly straight freeway is going to tax the attention span of even the most intense observer.  I once drove across Iowa.  Miles and miles of cornfields and flat as a table as far as the eye could see.  Having grown up in the Rocky Mountains, driving across Iowa reminded of the old song "Too Much of Nothing".  My apologies to fans of Iowa.  The drive from Salt Lake City, Utah to Portland, Oregon follows much of the old Oregon Trail and while there are occasional historic markers along the way, it has been said that modern travelers will find much of it just about as lonely as did the pioneers in the 19th Century and I found that to be true.  I also found gas stations to be few and far between!  When you encounter stretches of road like this it will behoove you to have planned for it.  You may need in-vehicle activities, especially if you're traveling with children and you need to schedule regular rest stops for relief and to stay alert.  The options today far exceed those we had when I was a kid or when we were raising our kids.  We were pretty much limited to reading (which doesn't work for some people as it makes them car sick), playing games (like I Spy, the Alphabet Game, and counting license plates), singing songs, and telling stories.  Card games could be fun for everyone but the driver.  Today you have additional electronic options like books on tape, live Internet access, and portable DVD players.   Something that is usually fun for everyone is watching the information signs and billboards along the highway to find interesting places to stop for meals, snacks, or short visits.  Some billboards can be quite entertaining.  When I was a teenager we took several trips across southern Idaho and the highlight of the trips were the Stinker Service Station signs.  The front side had  picture of a skunk and typically advertised the location of the next Stinker gas station but it was the back side we always focused on.  Each one had a unique and amusing saying on it.  For example, in the middle of nowhere was one that said "Lonely Hearts Club Picnic Grounds"; another said "Just think: If you lived here you'd be home now"; yet another in a lonely stretch of road proclaimed "Its uncanny; there are no restrooms in this area".  They were always fun and apropos.  When traveling these kinds of roads, try to keep your gas tank full whenever you can.  You don't want to already be 100 miles from the last gas stop before you discover you can't reach the next one before running out of gas!

Access to services is another consideration along lonely sections of highway.  Know how far you can go on a tank of gas and plan to stop for gas  to make sure you don't run out in the middle of nowhere.  If your vehicle has a trip meter you can reset it at each gas stop so you know at a glance how far you've gone to help you gauge when to get more fuel.  Lacking a trip meter you'll need to jot down the odometer reading and do a little math to keep track of when you'll need gas next.  Gas stations usually come up fairly frequently along Interstate highways, but you can go for 50 or 100 miles or more between gas stations on some of the older highways.  In today's economy and with a lot of travelers sticking to the freeway system, many remote stations have gone out of business so even if you've been able to buy gas at roadside stops or small towns before, they might not still be there.  And, of course, expect to pay extra for fuel in remote locations.  Certainly supply and demand pay an important part of setting the price, but consider the transportation costs and other overhead are probably higher, forcing a higher price.  Food services may also be thinly scattered along lonely roads, so plan your meals and bring along plenty of snacks to tide you over.  And don't forget to bring PLENTY of drinking water.  Some folks like to limit fluid intake to minimize restroom stops, but that isn't really a very good idea.  Dehydration can cause some rather unpleasant consequences, including fatigue and grogginess, not good things when you're driving.  You may also want to toss in a gallon or so of extra water (or antifreeze) in case you spring a leak in your vehicle cooling system in the middle of nowhere.  Speaking of cooling system repairs, it is a good idea to carry some radiator hose repair tape.  It is in no way a permanent solution but it may help slow leaks long enough for you to reach civilization where you can get real repairs.  Pay attention to the signs that let you know how are it is to the next rest area so you don't end up trying to "hold it" too long, which has painful and sometimes very unpleasant and embarrassing results.  You might be tempted to pull over along a rural stretch of road and take advantage of some convenient trees or bushes in an emergency, but in most places it is illegal and is always unsanitary.  Much better to plan your stops to take advantage of the many very well equipped rest stops you'll find along most highways.  Also, make use of restrooms whenever you stop for gas or food.  Adapting one of the "old men's rules" from the movie "As Good As It Gets", never pass up a chance to use the restroom!  Remember the days when you reminded the kids to go to the bathroom before getting in the car?  Might be a good time to re-implement that rule -- for kids of ALL ages.

Most of us are accustomed to purchasing fuel with credit or debit cards but you may very well find remote locations that only accept cash, so be sure you carry a little with you for emergencies.  The same thing may apply to buying food.

Napping in the car is sometimes a fairly good way to help the time go more quickly in boring sections of the trip.  Some people enjoy napping in the car; others can't get comfortable.  Of course it is NOT an option for the current driver so trade off every couple of  hours or so!  If you begin to feel tired or sleepy, pull over at the next safe opportunity; get some fresh air and stretch your legs.  An occasional stop like this will take a lot less time than recovering from an accident!  Passengers will want to reserve nap times for uninteresting sections of the highway.  On most long trips there are plenty of them, so staying awake when there is something beautiful or interesting to see makes a lot of sense.  Most rest areas or road sides where you can pull off are relatively safe but if you notice any unsavory activity keep going until you find a place you feel more comfortable.

Hotels, motels, and campgrounds along the way can provide a welcome respite from driving.  In a pinch you can pull into a freeway rest area and snooze for a bit in your vehicle if you get really tired, but having an actual bed, even if its a sleeping bag in a tent, will be more restful and overnight stops give you something to look forward to.  Sometimes you can choose places with several amenities to enhance your stay (pool, wi-fi, hot tub, sauna, restaurant, even golf).  Even if there is not a restaurant in the hotel there will usually be a number of eating establishments nearby offering you a choice.  We like to seek out small, local cafes where the "home cooked" meals are often superb and reasonably priced.  "Country" breakfasts seem to be especially good values and are sometimes offered all day long.

Road trips can also be educational in ways that are a lot more fun and personal than reading it in school or watching it on the History Channel.  One time we chose to take Highway 49 instead of I-5 up through central California.  Highway 49 follows the route of the "49ers", early California gold prospectors, and there are dozens of historic sites along they way where you can get hands on exposure to how the miners worked and lived.  There are many such routes in different parts of the country that highlight local history or geology.  It will take you a little longer than zipping up the freeways, but we've found such variations to be well worth the extra time.  Not only are they interesting and educational, we found the trip to be less stressful and a lot more fun.

Trip out!