Bicycles for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Bicycles are a good match for both tent and RV camping.  They are light weight and provide economical transportation around camp and for local shopping and sightseeing trips.  They are environmentally friendly and provide good exercise to help you keep in shape.  Bicycle riding is a fun activity for families, couples, and even solo.

Bicycles are not usually associated with boating but you could bring a bicycle along to use on shore at your destination or stops along the way.  The limited space on smaller boats doesn't lend itself very well to transporting bicycles but if you have room on board there is no reason you couldn't take a bicycle with you if you want.

Bicycles can be carried on an RV, a tow vehicle, or the family car.  They are light weight and take up little room.  Some even fold up so they fit in your trunk or an RV outside cabinet.  They require few tools or spare parts.  New bicycles may range in price from under $100 to more than $10,000.  You'll probably want something in between.  Cheap bicycles are, well, cheap.  They are usually not as light and may not function as smoothly or be as durable or reliable as more expensive models.  You can usually get a pretty good bike for a few hundred dollars.  If you have the budget for it, there are amazingly light racing bikes made of leading edge materials that are very durable and fun to ride.   You can usually find good used bikes at thrift stores.  Sometimes they may have already been reconditioned, but the lower cost of ones that haven't been may make them good buys if you have the tools and skills to do the work yourself -- or other resources to get them in shape. 

Choose a bike that fits your needs.  There are several different general types of bicycles, each designed for a different riding style.  Road bikes are the fastest and usually the lightest weight.  They have very thin, high pressure tires and drop down handle bars.  The thin, hard tires minimize rolling resistance and are designed for riding on smooth pavement.  The drop down handlebars make the rider crouch into a low profile that reduces wind drag.  These are the style of bike used in high speed, long distance road races.  The bent over riding position may be uncomfortable to some riders.  A fitness or hybrid bike is much like a road bike but doesn't have the drop down handlebars.  These are very popular bikes for recreational and fitness use.  City bikes have high handlebars and seats designed for upright riding.  Cruisers are designed for short comfortable rides.  They have larger seats, wide handlebars, and fatter tires. They often called "beach cruisers" because of their popularity for riding in the sand.  Mountsain bikes are designed for off road use, with sturdier, softer, knobby tires for traction and rugged frames.  Mountain bikes often include suspension systems to smooth the ride,  Consider the weight when purchasing a bike.  Lighter bikes will take less effort to ride but because of the more costly materials (carbon fiber, titanium, aluminum) will usually be more expensive.  Weight is a more important consideration for racing or for off-road riding than it would be for recreational riding on city streets.  Pretty much any bike that is comfortable for you to ride will be suitable for campgrounds and local excursions.  If you expect to do any trail riding or other off-road riding, consider a mountain bike.  If you find bending over hard on your back you can usually change the handlebar stem to a high rise model that lets you sit more upright.  I did that on my mountain bike and it made riding a LOT more comfortable.  Some bikes have active suspension systems that absorb he bumps in the road or trail.  Of course springs, shock absorbers, and linkages add weight but it is often well worth it for the added comfort.

Bikes come in single or multiple speed versions.  Cruisers are usually single speed bikes with a "coaster brake".   To stop the bike, pedal backwards to engage the brake within the hub of the rear wheel.  Multiple speed bikes use different sized sprockets on the pedals and on the rear wheels to provide a variety of gear ratios for different riding conditions.  Low gear ratios make it easier to pedal up inclines while high gear rations yield faster travel.  Road bikes, mountain bikes, and most fitness bikes are multiple speed bikes.  Multiple speed bikes have hand brakes.  These normally have pads that grip the edge of the wheel but more effective, more durable, and more expensive disc brakes are becoming more popular.  Disc brakes may be a little safer because they are less affected by moisture you might get on the rims riding in wet conditions.

For many years bicycles had no suspension at all.  The wheels were mounted directly to the frame. This made for a rather stiff and bumpy ride.   My mountain bike has no suspension and I can feel every pebble in the pavement when I ride my mountain bike on the road.  Today there are many suspension options.  Front suspension reduces hammering  of your hands, arms and shoulders.  Rear suspension makes the ride softer.  As you would expect, the more sophisticated the suspension, the more costly the bike.  If you're mostly just riding around the campground or over smooth paved roads, suspension will probably not be necessary.  But if you are riding trails or going on long rides or encounter rough roads, suspension will be very desirable.  My first bicycle, many years ago, had a simple front suspension called "knee action".  The front wheel was mounted on a secondary fork that was hinged and had a spring at the top of one set of forks to absorb the bumps.  Modern suspension usually includes shock absorbers that dampen movement and absorb impact as well as springs.  Some bikes may have only front suspension to lessen the stress on your arms and shoulders.  Bikes with rear suspension will be more comfortable to ride, especially on rough roads or off-road trails, but they will be more expensive.  When riding a standard bike without any suspension you will feel every bump, even the very texture of the gravel in asphalt pavement and that can be quite tiring.   You can usually  even feel the difference between riding on the white line at the edge of the road compared to riding on bare asphalt.  Of course suspension components will add a little weight to the bike too.

Motor powered bicycles are available but not commonly seen.  They may be powered by a small gasoline engine or by a battery powered electric motor.  Motor driven cycles minimize the effort needed to get around but also reduce the exercise component of cycling.  Motor driven cycles may be prohibited on many trails.  Motor driven bicycles usually do not meet the standards for motor vehicles and riding them on public thoroughfares may be illegal.

Folding bicycles are designed to fit into the storage compartment of RVs or the trunk of your car. They are usually single speed bikes designed primarily for cruising around the campground or short trips to the store.  I would probably not choose a folding bike because I like to do a lot of exploring, and a multi-speed bike is far better suited for that.  But having a folding bike in the RV for getting around camp or quick trips to a nearby store might be a real advantage.

There are even all wheel drive bicycles.  These have an option to engage a second chain that connects to the front wheel.  As you can imagine, the linkage is somewhat complicated.  Just like 4-wheel drive vehicles, the all wheel drive bicycle is designed for added traction in off-road conditions.  I owned one for a while and found that the added weight and friction of the front wheel drive made it less appealing than I thought it would be.  Perhaps if I'd been riding on muddy or otherwise slippery trails the extra front wheel traction may have been more noticeable and appreciated, but I found my regular mountain bike more comfortable and easier to ride on the hard-packed or sandy desert trails I normally rode.

If you have any problem maintaining balance you might to for a three-wheeled bike.   With full sized wheels and other modern innovations they are a far cry from the tricycle you rode as a toddler.

Bicycle racks are a good way to transport your bicycles.  Or you can transport them in the bed of your pickup or in your trailer.  Bike racks can be found to fit just about any vehicle.  There are some that slide into the trailer hitch receiver, some that clamp over a rear-mounted spare tire, some that attach to the trunk and bumper of a car.  There are roof racks that can carry your bikes on top of your vehicle.  I often see bike racks on top of tent trailers.  I had an 8-bike rack custom built to fit the trailer hitch on my motorhome to accommodate full size bikes for my family of 8.  It carried 4 bikes on each of two levels.  Whenever using any bike rack, be sure to tie down the bikes securely.  You want to restrict movement to avoid chafing that can damage paint or other components as well as make sure they don't fall of en route.  Look for a rack that has padding to protect the parts of the bike that come in contact with the carrier.  You can use ratchet tie down straps to limit movement and ensure your bikes and rack remain secure.

Used bicycles can be a real bargain.  Check your local bike shop, classified ads, garage sales, thrift stores, and online sites like craigslist and ebay.  You will want to acquire some knowledge about brands and prices to ensure you recognize a good deal when  you find one and to avoid getting ripped off.  Thrift stores often offer the best values.  Because of their low overhead they can afford to sell at lower prices and often the bikes have been reconditioned by knowledgeable thrift store employees.  As you would purchasing any used equipment, inspect it carefully to make sure everything is there and in good working order.  A bike that needs minor work can be an excellent value IF you have the resources to make the necessary adjustments and repairs but one that only needs a flat tire fixed won't do you any good if you can't fix it.  I have seen $1200 mountain bikes in good shape sell on craigslist for $200 so with a little patience you may be able to get a really good deal on a used bike.

Like any mechanical device, bicycles require a certain amount of maintenance to keep the working well.    Most maintenance can be done by the owner/rider.  Even changing tires or brake pads (on bikes equipped with hand brakes) is usually within the capabilities of the average owner/rider.  Regular lubrication is necessary to maintain smooth operation and reduce wear.  Lubrication points include axle bearings, crank bearings, and head bearings (where the stem that holds handle bars turn in the frame).  Bikes with suspension will have additional moving parts that need to be regularly inspected and lubricated.  Chain adjustment is also part of routine maintenance.  A loose chain may come off.  A tight chain may cause excessive wear or make shifting difficult.  Multiple speed bikes also required adjustment of the shifter.  This is a little more technical and many owners take their bikes to a professional for a "tuneup" periodically.  Owner riders can usually learn to adjust hand brakes.  Frequently check the wheels for loose spokes.  If you over-tighten spokes you can "tweak" the wheel so it doesn't run true.  Unless you have the skills and proper tools for truing the wheel, you'll need to take it to a bike shop if the wheels begin to wobble or the spokes get excessively loose.  The shifters on multi-speed bikes can be difficult to adjust.  If you have problems you can't solve yourself you may have to take it to a bike shop for a "tune up".  I found them to be surprisingly inexpensive and well worth it.

Always wear protective gear when riding a bicycle.  Many cities and states have laws at least requiring riders under a certain age to wear helmets but it is ALWAYS a good idea to wear a helmet, regardless of your age or local laws and it doesn't matter whether you're riding on the road or off road. Other apparel to make you more comfortable may include riding shorts, which have a padded crotch to reduce irritation from the seat.  Speaking of the seat, if you find the one on your bike isn't comfortable, there are many aftermarket seats to choose from so you can probably find one that fits your body and your riding style better.  Gloves will keep your hands from chafing on the hand grips and will significantly reduce the chance of blisters.  They will also keep your hands warmer in cool weather while light weight gloves usually are still comfortable in hot weather.  Cycling gloves are specially designed for riding comfort.  Some bicycle gloves have open finger tips.  Personally, I prefer full fingered gloves.  They provide more consistent protection.  Heavy work gloves will be cumbersome and could cause blisters.  Off road motorcycle gloves would also be a good option.  Riding jerseys are designed to provide flexible movement and keep you comfortable but many riders wear ordinary T-shirts or polo shirts.  In warm weather you want something that will wick away your sweat.  In cooler weather you may need to add a windbreaker or other cold weather clothing.  Rain gear is essential for comfort in wet weather.   Professional cyclists wear special shoes but I've found light weight running shoes to be very comfortable for my needs and wearing my cowboy boots prevents my pant legs from getting caught in the chain.  Avoid wearing pants with loose legs as they can get caught in the chain.  If you don't wear fitted pants, tie up the leg on the side where the chain is to keep it from getting caught.  When I was a kid we used to use metal spring clamps that fit around our pant legs just above the ankle but I haven't seen them in years.  A large rubber band or a small bungee will do the job.  Wearing gaiters or leggings may also help, weather permitting; they might be uncomfortably hot in warm weather.   Rear view mirrors, either helmet mounted or handlebar mounted, will let you see traffic approaching from behind you and to keep track of other riders when you're out front.

Riding a bicycle requires a fair amount of exertion.  Even on cooler days you're going to lose moisture through sweat and through breathing.  It is essential that you maintain adequate hydration when riding to avoid heat related illness.  A Camelbak style hydration pack is one of the most convenient ways to stay hydrated while riding.  You can sip from the mouthpiece anytime without having to stop your ride.  Most bikes are or can be equipped with brackets or a least a place to mount brackets on the front part of the lower frame to hold a water bottle.  Regardless of the method you use, always carry water and drink frequently to avoid dehydration.  If you're just starting out riding after a sedentary life style, you may want to consult your doctor before you begin to ensure you are fit enough to ride.  You may need to start with an easy regimen and work your way up in order to avoid discomfort and health problems.   

If you are just getting into cycling, it would be a good idea to check with your doctor first to make sure you are physically fit enough to proceed.  Then start out easy and work your way up.  A few days of riding "around the block" before tackling any long rides or steep hills is a good way to build up strength, skill, and stamina.  I like to plan my training rides so that I am going uphill on the way out and can take advantage of downhills to coast a little on the way back.  That being said, it always seems to me that no matter where I ride it is ALWAYS uphill both ways!  I must not notice the downhills on the way out until I have to pedal back up them on the way back.

Bicycling can be a great family activity.  You may be able to spend more quality time and enjoy a closer look as you explore the sights and sounds around you with far greater intensity than you get flying by in an air conditioned vehicle.  With a little planning you can stop along the way for a picnic lunch or pedal to the local burger joint or ice cream parlor for a special treat.  Bicycling allows you to travel farther and faster and easier than walking but still lets you get significant exercise and have full access to the sights and sound.  Plus you have the option to easily alter your course to explore interesting places along the way.

Security may be a concern. Bicycles are very popular and are fairly easy to steal and to sell.  Always lock up your bike when you aren't using it, both in camp and when you stop along your ride.  My youngest son learned this lesson the hard way when his brand new bike was stolen just days after he received it for his birthday.  Ironically it was stolen while he was in the store buying a bike lock!  He came out with a really nice bike lock only find that his bike was gone.  Be sure to record the serial number of your bike if it has one so you can give it to law enforcement if it is stolen.  It is also a good idea to engrave your own ID number somewhere on the frame where it won't be easily seen but can be used to prove it's yours if recovered by law enforcement.

Bicycle safety involves more than wearing a helmet and keeping your balance.  In most jurisdictions, bicycles are bound by the same laws as motor vehicles. although all too often you will see bicyclists disregard stop signs and stop lights and lane usage.   I have seen places were rules for bicycles have been relaxed to allow them to pedal through stop signs and stop lights without stopping, but it seems to me to be a very dangerous practice.   And, yes, you can get a speeding ticket or a ticket for running a stop sign on a bicycle.  Some bicyclists prefer to ride against traffic, but that is usually illegal and is actually quite dangerous.  True, you have a better view of on-coming traffic like walking against traffic, but motorists won't be looking for you to be coming down the wrong lane, which can be disastrous if they're pulling out of a driveway or parking space and watching for traffic coming up from  where motor vehicles would normally be.   Take advantage of bicycle lanes when they exist but be aware that they often end with little or no warning.  When riding on public roads, ride single file and stay near the right hand edge of the pavement.  Riding on sidewalks or in crosswalks is usually prohibited but you will see a lot of riders ignoring that law.  Remember, you are required to obey the same traffic laws on your bicycle as you have to obey driving a motorcycle, car, or RV.  Laws typically require motor vehicles to maintain at least 3 feet between them and bicycles when passing them.  To maintain maximum safety, always ride as close to the side of the road (away from the traffic lanes)  as you safely can.  Always ride single file when there is other traffic on the road.  Some roads have designated bicycle lanes for added safety.  Even when riding in designated bike lanes you should ride as far away from traffic as you can.  Cars near you can't always swing out to give you more space if there is traffic coming the other direction towards them and many drivers may drive closer to bicycles to avoid crossing over double yellow lines to go around them even if there is no traffic coming.  The fines for crossing the double yellow line can be expensive!

Safety is a primary concern when riding a bicycle --enough so that it bears a second mention. You have little protection if you collide with anything -- a car, a tree, another rider, a pedestrian, or even soft ground so you want to avoid dangerous situations.  Even soft grass can be a painful place the land.  In most places, bicycles are required to obey the same laws as motor vehicles.  That means coming to a complete stop at stop signs, signaling your turns, and avoiding impeding traffic.  Some riders like to ride against traffic so they can see cars approaching.  In most places this is illegal as well as unsafe.  I nearly hit a bicyclist riding against traffic on the wrong side of the road as I pulled out from a parking space.  I was legitimately concerned about traffic approaching from the rear and, like most people, never expected a bicycle to be riding the wrong way in the lane I was entering right next to the parked cars, so he nearly ran into the front of my car when I began to pull out.  When riding in a group, ride single file whenever there is traffic present to minimize your impact on traffic and reduce the chances of one of you being struck or forced off the road.  Normally bicyclists don't ride fast enough to exceed posted speed limits,but be aware that you are subject to posted speed limits when riding a bicycle so think about that going down hill.  I've seen bikes easily exceed 50 mph coasting down hill on mountain roads.  While that may be exhilarating, it is also very dangerous.  Stopping will be extremely difficult and even hitting a very small obstacle may be enough to make you crash.  And, at that speed, it won't be a pretty sight!  Even if you believe you have the right of way, competing with large motor vehicles isn't a wise thing to do.  You may be right, but in the end you could be DEAD right!

Bicycling is a great family activity and unless you have physical limitations can be a great way to do some sight seeing and get some exercise.  Bikes let you move faster and easier than walking, but slow enough to enjoy the scenery and you can stop to check things out any time you like.  Add a basket or cargo rack and you can use your bike for quick trips to pick up supplies or to carry your picnic.  In a pinch you might just hang a couple of plastic grocery bags on the handlebars to carry your stuff, but try not to do that because it will affect your ability to steer and control the bike.

Nighttime riding requires some special preparation.  First of all, you will need to make you and your bike visible to other traffic.  Most bikes are equipped with front (white) and rear (red) reflectors but not lights.  You can add a headlight and taillight to help you see where you're going and make your bike even more visible at night.  Most headlight systems use a generator that is driven by one of the tires, but that means you only have light when you are moving.  Battery powered lights solve this problem, but batteries can run down fairly quickly.  The best solution is a hybrid that uses batteries but charges them via a wheel-driven generator when moving.  New LED based lighting reduces power requirements.  I've seen inexpensive "flashers" you can clip to your clothing to make you more noticeable.  Do not wear dark colored clothing when riding at night!  Wear light colored clothing.   For best results, wear something reflective.  If you don't have any reflective bike apparel, a simple safety vest like those used by construction workers and road crews is pretty inexpensive and well worth the investment and they can be folded up  small enough to fit in a bike pack or pocket.  Class III safety vests are designed with extra reflective material for greater nighttime visibility and they aren't much more expensive than Class II  daytime vests.  You can get simple reflective bands that snap around your arm to add a little bit of nighttime safety.  And they are not expensive:  I've even found them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.

If you are really ambitious and in good physical condition, you might even use a bicycle to go camping.   You will need to organize your gear and supplies so you can carry them on your bicycle.  Some of it may go in a back pack, some of it in a rack over the rear fender, or some in saddle bags.  Any way you cut it, you will want to minimize the weight you have to pack around.  Make sure your bike is in good condition, properly lubricated and shifters and brakes properly adjusted.  Always carry plenty of drinking water and have it readily available every time you stop.  Bike water bottles are usually mounted in a rack on the lower bar beneath the crossbar or you can wear a hydration pack.  If you find you just can't get your load down enough to carry you might be able to get a bike trailer (like those used to carry infants) to offload some of your gear.  However, you will still be having to move all the weight and it will take as much energy regardless of whether it is on your bike or behind it.  You will also get a little extra rolling resistance from the two additional tires on the trailer and pulling a trailer will reduce mobility and maneuverability and may limit the trails you can travel.

In addition to being used when camping or RVing, you can go camping and RVing on a bicycle!  For basic camping you may be able to  carry your tent and sleeping bag on a bike rack or on a pack on your back.  If you need or want to carry more gear you may need a little trailer.  There are trailers made for bicycles that can carry toddler and cargo.  There are also some camping trailers built to be towed by bicycles.  They usually include some cargo capacity so you can haul your gear as well as having a place to sleep in out of the weather.  I have even seen so tiny Class C style RVs built onto a bicycle (more like a tricycle, but still with pedal power!) but I, for one, wouldn't want to pedal that up or down any hills!

Pedal power rules!

Even More On Sharpening Your Camping and Survival Skills

Why does sharpening your skills deserve a second and even this third post?   Well, it is unlikely you can ever get too much practice for essential skills.  We tend to be creatures of habit and if the habits we develop bypass regular exercise of our camping skills, they'll wane and eventually disappear.  So we need to be ever vigilant in using and improving our camping skills.  Perhaps my own lack of opportunity to practice my skills during the "off season" makes me particularly sensitive to the need.
    
No matter what your preferences for camping or other recreational activities, you will get more pleasure out of your efforts as your skills develop and improve.  Regardless of how good you may be at a particular task, you can almost always find room for improvement and without regular practice and exercise, even the best experts begin to experience diminished ability.

Every camping, hunting, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, or OHV trip is an opportunity to hone your  existing skills and perhaps develop new ones.  Every trip requires pre- and post- trip activities  that, as you practice them, will improve.  Preparations will become easier and take less time as you refine your checklists and your procedures.   You'll get better and better at hooking up the trailer, loading up your tent gear, or getting the RV on the road.  Every trip is a chance to observe and refine your driving skills.  Driving a motorhome or pulling a trailer or even navigating unfamiliar roads to a campground takes skills most drivers don't experience in their daily lives.  The more you drive your rig, the more comfortable you will become and the more fun it will be.  If you only go once or twice a year, each trip will be an ordeal.  By the time you begin to get comfortable driving your rig again, your trip will probably be over.  Setting up camp, building campfires, and camp cooking are routine activities that also get easier with practice.  

Experienced campers may want to choose specific survival techniques to practice on each outing.  You may feel comfortable with routine camp tasks, but might benefit from practicing starting your campfire using flint and steel or perhaps even creating emergency shelters or hunting or foraging for food.  Be sure to check local rules and regulations before doing anything that might have an environmental impact, such as cutting trees for a shelter or hunting or fishing or gathering edible plants.  Hunting and fishing usually require a license and are governed by scheduled "seasons" for specific types of game.  Gathering edible plants and even picking wildflowers are often prohibited.

Just about every outdoor activity can benefit from regular practice.  Whether you're just camping or out hunting, fishing, hiking, dirt biking, or enjoying your personal watercraft, there are always skills you can improve upon.  Some skills you can practice during routine activities but others may require some special preparations.  The availability of online guides and instructional videos can provide answers to many questions and give you entertaining ways to learn new skills.  When I say "entertaining", I mean entertaining to YOU, rather than turn your novice attempts at new skills into unintended entertainment for your fellow campers and humiliation for you, which happens all too frequently when we jump into something without proper preparation.   Seek out fellow campers with interests similar to yours and take advantage of their experience and expertise to enhance your own.  Just because experienced riders make something look easy doesn't mean it is!

Just like sharpening our tools makes them safer and easier to use, sharpening our skills will make our activities safer and more more fun.  And don't be afraid to draw on the expertise of other more experience campers.  They're likely to have had their share of embarrassing moments and may be able to divert you away from potential disasters.  Of course you will probably want to avoid seeking help from the resident practical joker, who may be likely to take advantage of your naivety to amuse himself or entertain others at your expense.

Use it or lose it!

Family Camping Activities

Camping, RVing, and OHV riding are excellent wholesome family activities that complement each other.  Camping by itself offers a variety of places to go and things to do that can keep a family entertained and provide opportunities for bonding and teaching moments.  Camping in an RV makes it more convenient and comfortable than camping in a tent.  We found that dirt biking was perfect for our family.  We have 6 children:  4 boys and 2 girls, with a 14 year age spread.  Just try finding something that will hold the interest both boys and girls from 4 to 18 over several years!  Our RV made an ideal base camp for dirt bike rides, providing air conditioned comfort on hot desert days and a warm haven from bad weather.  Coming "home" to a shower and a comfortable bed is something to look forward to after a long, hot dusty, desert ride.  Likewise, a warm and cozy RV is invaluable when you get caught in bad weather.  Been there, done that, more than once!

Camping and dirt biking provide a natural high that at least one of our son's said helped keep him off drugs when his friends were all doing them in high school. 

Camping, in either a tent or an RV, brings a family together in ways you probably won't have at home.  First of all, you will be in closer physical proximity than you normally are in a permanent residence (how can you not in such confined spaces?) but more importantly, you will be sharing experiences.  Even routine tasks like fixing meals that are typically taken for granted at home can be opportunities for shared activities and family bonding way beyond what is available in our electronically centered lives these days.  Camping helps get both couch potatoes and video game addicts off their butts and out of their ruts.  Of course it may take some planning and organization to take advantage of these opportunities.  You may have to convince your teenagers to leave their video games at home or at least impose -- and enforce -- some limits on their use.  Allowing them at least some access to their electronic companions will probably make things easier.  It will help if you have planned interesting meals and activities that they can be involved in.  Campfire cooking is usually a unique and entertaining enough experience to provide incentives for most kids but even cooking in the RV on on the camp stove can be fun, especially if it involves making special treats!  Preparing traditional pioneer or mountain man food can make an interesting evening.  Plan your outings to go where there are fun things to do.  Do a little research to find out if the activities are suitable for your family.  Some ranger-led nature hikes are really fun for younger visitors but may not hold the interest of your older teens.  A visit to an antique car museum will probably be fun for everyone, particularly the boys, but your boys might not be so thrilled with spending an afternoon in a doll house.   You might even find it good to spend some time learning to share video games with your electronically addicted children and even easier and more interesting to you than it is at home.

RVing is often easier for a family than tent camping.  There is usually less setup time and effort required when you get to camp so you can spend more time on non work-like activities.  An RV gives you flexibility in travel.  Even with a trailer you can pull over into a rest area or onto a safe spot along side the road when someone needs to use the bathroom instead of having to scurry to find a service station.  With a motorhome the on board facilities are conveniently available anytime to everyone but the driver.  And even the driver can benefit by sending the copilot for a refreshing drink or a snack.  Traveling by RV often lets you choose optional side-trips along the way and provides opportunities for spontaneous exploration.

We found OHV (dirt bike) riding to be a perfect complement for RVing for our family.  Everyone very much enjoyed riding and even found some fun in maintaining their bikes and riding gear.  There were frequently new areas to visit or new trails to ride and re-visiting favorite trails was always a fun adventure. We found riding offered an unexpected balance of opportunities to build both individual confidence and teamwork.  We went riding with our "Desert Rat" group (www.desertrat.org) almost every holiday weekend while the kids were growing up, forming friendships that endure to this day for both adults and kids.  Our oldest daughter even raced Women's Desert, advancing from Novice to Expert in her first season and bringing home many trophies.  She even won the #1 Women's Motocross plate in Los Angeles one year.

Options for in camp activities are virtually endless.  There are many sports and hundreds of games you can play in camp.  Bring along a football or a volleyball or a softball or a frisbee.  Lawn darts is popular game among many campers, but make sure you keep the playing area clear.  They can deliver very painful and even lethal injuries.  Card games and board games are essential for indoor distractions during bad weather but can be fun around the campfire or picnic table any time.  Card games are especially well-suited to camping since a deck of cards takes up very little space.  Various forms of tag and "capture the flag" can create hours of more physical activities if you need to burn off some calories or use up some of that extra energy kids always seem to have, especially when you're ready to take it easy!

Like most things, you'll only get something out of an activity if you put something into it.  Camping, RVing, and OHVing provide opportunities for building character and for family bonding, but it is up to you to make use of those opportunities.  You'll need to select appropriate destinations for you family and plan relevant activities.  You'll need to watch for -- or create -- "teaching moments" when you can use activities to help kids learn important life lessons.  Sometimes you can offer hands-on experience to augment book learning in things like science, biology, first aid, mechanics, astronomy, and survival.  Sometimes your activities will provide good examples of personal interaction and the natural consequences that result from life choices.  Little, if any, of it will happen automatically.  You'll need to pay attention to what is going on and make use of the circumstances and situations you encounter.  Sometimes it is painful but allowing your children to experience the natural consequences of their choices and actions is one of the best things you can do for them.

Family togetherness.  Try it!

Starting Fires Without Matches

The discovery of fire was one of the seminal moments in human history.   Fire gave man the ability to keep warm when he was cold, have light in the dark, cook food, and scare away predatory animals. Our long fascination with fire is carried over today in the tradition of campfires and fireplaces.  Most of the time we take fire pretty much for granted.  But it wasn't always so, and in fact, it isn't always so even today.  When fires are out of control or unavailable when needed we face significant danger.  Being able to avoid or escape a fire may save your life.  Likewise, being able to make a fire in a survival situation may be lifesaving too.

Being able to start a fire in a survival situation could literally mean the difference between life and death and certainly adds considerably to your comfort.  There is much folk lore and much is written about starting fires without matches.  Of course the easiest way to start a fire without matches is with a Bic-style lighter.  Many survivalists strongly recommend you include a lighter in your survival kit.  They are inexpensive, light weight, and easy to use.  Even after they run out of fuel the spark may be used to ignite tinder.

One of the most commonly promoted ways of starting a fire without matches is rubbing two sticks together.  I don't know about you, but the only way I want to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match!  Otherwise, rubbing two sticks together is a time-proven technique but is is very tedious and takes a lot of effort.   It has been said that when you cut your own wood it warms you twice.  The same might be said of starting a fire by rubbing two sticks together.  It takes a LOT of work!  The most efficient way is to make a bow drill.  For this you will need a a curved stick or a green stick that is flexible enough to be bent into a bow, a piece of string or other cordage long enough to string the bow, a dry stick about a foot and a half long for the "drill" (I'm told softwood works best), a wooden base plate, and a bearing block or hand piece.  The hand piece should fit comfortably in your hand and will serve as the upper pivot point for the drill.  It may be made of wood or stone or just about anything that will protect your hand from the top of the spinning drill.  The hand piece could be made of stone, bone, sea shell, or hardwood.  It needs be thick enough to protect your hand from heat as well as protecting you from direct abrasion. The base or hearth plate should be hardwood and you'll want to carve a small depression in the middle to hold the tip of the drill. Round the top of the spindle and lubricate it with oil (from your face, sometimes called "beak oil" off your nose, if you don't have anything else.  A drop of oil from a vehicle dipstick works really well if you have a vehicle nearby).  Sharpen the end that will drill into the hearth or base place.  Loop the bow string around the middle of the spindle (drill stick).  Place the bottom (sharp) end into the depression in the base plate and put some dry tinder near the point of contact.  Hold the hand piece in one hand (left hand if you're right handed, right hand if you're left handed) and put it on the top of the drill.  Then move the bow back in forth in a sawing motion to rotate the drill, using the hand guard to keep pressure on the drill so there is significant friction between the drill and the base plate.  When you start to generate smoke look for a glowing coal and be ready to put the tinder on the coal.  Blow gently to increase the temperature of the coal to ignite the tinder.  Take care not to blow so hard as to blow out the flames when the tinder begins to burn. If you don't have materials to make a bow, you can turn the drill by rubbing it between your hands.  Start with both hands at the top of the drill and rub them back and forth to rotate the drill, all the time pushing or pressing down to keep pressure on the drill.  This also helps reduce injuring your hands.   You can practice the "Isty Bitsy Spider" hand movement to get a feel for how your hands should work.  This "hand drill" technique an be really hard on your hands and can easily produce blisters.  Les Stroud (Survivorman) recommends slapping your hands together frequently hard enough so it hurts to stimulate blood flow and minimize blisters. Another way of starting a fire rubbing two sticks together is called a "fire plow".  In this case, instead of rotating a stick to generate friction, you simply push the point of one stick along a groove the base plate rapidly and repeatedly until you create enough heat to get your fire going. You might also use a vine or rope as if you were trying to saw through a piece of wood to create enough friction to light a fire.

Flint and steel is another age-old method for starting fires.  If you have flint and steel or can find stones that make sparks when struck together or against iron or steel, you can use the sparks to ignite your tinder.  I find this a LOT easier than rubbing two ticks together!   My first attempt at using flint and steel was very frustrating.  I didn't realize the brand new "flint" had a coating on it that I had to scrape away before I could get sparks.  But once it was gone, Wa-lah!  Nice big sparks -- once I learned the right angle and the right pressure. I like to use 100% cotton balls for tinder.  Add a little Vaseline if you have it to ignition and make the cotton ball burn longer, giving you more time to use it to get your fire going.  In the wild you can use punky wood, char cloth, or finely ground dry grass, pine needles, or bark for tinder.

The UST Sparkle Firestick is a very convenient flint an steel option.  Instead of striking the flint and steel together, they are combined in a  single hand held, spring-loaded, unit you can operate with one hand.  You just depress the plunger to create a spark 3 times as hot as a match.  You can find them on Amazon for about $10 and each one should last for at least 100 strikes.

Sunlight can be used to ignite tinder if you have a way to concentrate it.  The stereotypical tool is a magnifying glass, but you may be able to use spectacles or broken headlight lenses.  Sometimes the lens from a flashlight will work but many are flat.  If yours is completely flat don't waste you time.  I've even seen demonstrations of using a piece of ice, but most ice contains too many contaminates that cloud it so that it doesn't focus the sunlight as well as it needs to be.  An alternative is to polish the bottom of an aluminum can.  Soda and beer cans are often all too commonly found among the trash strewn in even surprisingly remote places.  Polish  the bottom of the can using some kind of rubbing compound (chocolate bars and tooth paste are two fairly common sources) until you can see your teeth or the whites of your eyes reflected in the parabolic surface of the bottom of the can.  When you aim the polished surface directly at the sun it will focus the suns rays at a point a few inches in front of the can.  Use a piece of wire or a stick to hold your tinder right at the focal point so you don' burn your fingers.  Here is a demonstration of how to do this.  Lacking chocolate or toothpaste your could use fine sand or even dirt to polish the can.

Steel wool and batteries can be used to start a fire.  Steel wool comes in different grades of coarseness.  You want 0000 steel wool.  Use clean steel wool.  Soap pads like Brillo and SOS are usually too coarse and the soap interferes with ignition.  6 and 12 volt car batteries, even when somewhat run down, can usually produce enough current to get steel wool going but even flashlight batteries can do the trick.  I've seen people start a fire by carefully breaking the bulb of a flashlight (take care not to damage the filament) and using the hot filament to light a fire.  Incandescent bulbs are about 10% efficient producing light and about 90% efficient making heat.  Another way to use batteries to start a fire is simply to create a spark by touching wires connected to the hot and ground sides of the battery together.  To get a good spark, strike one wire against the other rather than simply pressing them together.  Once they are connected they will no longer create a spark -- but the wires may get very hot and are likely to burn your fingers if they aren't protected.  If you have a vehicle battery, you might also have vehicle fuel that can be used as an accelerant to help get your fire going.  Always be careful working with flammable liquids.  Avoid spilling them on your hands or clothing.  Remember, it is the fumes that burn, not the liquid itself.  Tossing a matching into a gallon can filled to the top with gasoline will result in the match being doused by the gasoline.  Tossing one into a gallon can with a small amount of gasoline in the bottom (letting the remainder fill with fumes) will result in explosive ignition!  Acclerants tend to be very fluid.  In either liquid or even gaseous form, they can find their way into places you didn't expect, sometimes with dramatic and/or dangerous results.  I read about a fellow who poured a little gasoline on his fire, then, walked back to his van to get his matches.  He returned just in time to see his fire burst into flames as the fumes from the gasoline had slithered downhill to another camper's fire and then the flames had snaked back up the vapor trail to ignite his fire.  Very impressive and dramatic, but it could have been disasterous.  Think what might have happened if he'd spilled gas near his van!

The key to starting any fire, and especially to getting a fire going without matches or a lighter, is having the right tinder.  Tinder must be easily ignited.  For my personal fire starting kit I carry some 100% cotton balls. And no, although the synthetic "cosmetic puff" may look the same, they don't work the same.   You may see many folks recommend dryer lint for tinder.  If its cotton lint, from denim, towels or underwear, it will probably work well, but lint from synthetic fabrics like nylon, rayon, and polyester are more likely to be melted than ignited by sparks.  In the wild, you may have to make your own tinder.  Dry bark from tress like cedar and juniper, fluff from seed pots like milkweed or cattails, sagebrush bark, or even dry grass (rub it between your hands to grind it up and make it easier to light) can all be used as tinder.  Another option in the wild is "punky" wood.  This is the partially rotten wood you find in fallen logs, tree stumps, and hollow trees.  It is usually a redish brown color and has a kind of alligator skin pattern.  Pine needles are usually too course to be used as tinder unless you grind them down into small particles or dust.  The shavings from something called "fat wood" makes excellent tinder.  Fat wood is found at the core of rotted pine trees or logs.  It smells like turpentine and conatins concentrated resin that makes it nicely flammable.  A favorite of survivalists and outdoorsmen is "char cloth".   It is easily ignited by sparks.  Essentially it is just charred cotton cloth.   Any old cotton, like an old T-shirt or denim will do, but a favorite is something called "monks cloth".  You can buy it at a fabric store by the yard.  It isn't expensive and a yard of monks cloth will most likely give you a enough char cloth for a lifetime for you and your friends.  You can see how to make your own here. Magnesium shavings are an excellent tinder and will light even when they are wet, but unless you have some in your survival kit, you're not going to find them in the wild.  In the old days you could break open a flash bulb and use the magnesium filaments but most modern flash cameras use LEDs these days.  Some OHVs have magnesium components and in an emergency you might be able to scrape some shavings off them to use as a fire starter. 

After tinder, the next important step will be your kindling bundle or "birds nest".  Most likely you will want to use dry grass, pine needles, or loose, stringy bark for your birds nest.  You should have a bundle that is a good double handful, slightly larger than a softball.  Once you have your tinder started you insert it into the birds nest and soon you should have a pretty good ball of fire ready to start your campfire.  A real birds nest would work but will probably be soiled with excrement and may give off an unpleasant odor.  Because the tinder bundle will be on fire and will get very hot, it is a good idea to have something to protect your hands when you hold it.  Mountain men used a piece of heavy leather.  You might get away with cutting a piece of vinyl upholstery from a disabled vehicle but exercise caution as vinyl may melt or catch fire.  In a wilderness survival situation where you have only natural resources, you might be able use some heavy green (not dry) leaves.

Always prepare your campfire before you start trying to ignite your tinder.  The last thing you want to be doing is running around looking for wood after you get your tinder started.  You can choose a teepee or log cabin style fire, depending on the size and quantity of fuel you have.  Make sure you leave a place to push your fire bundle or birds nest inside to get your fire going.  Build the fuel pile up starting with small sticks, the size of a pencil or less, then keep adding progressively larger fuel -- thumb sized sticks, then 1"-2" sticks, etc.  All the wood should be dry and well seasoned (not green!).  About the only green wood that burns well is sagebrush.  Most other trees and shrubs need to dry out before they will burn well, so gather dead wood rather than breaking branches off living plants.  Don't make your initial fuel pile too big.  You can always add more fuel if you need more heat, but getting too much going at once just wastes fuel.  Be sure to have a stack of fuel ready to use as you need it.

Of course you always want to properly prepare your fire site to avoid losing control.  While having a fire could be essential to your survival, allowing one to get out of control could spell disaster!  In addition to normal precautions like clearing the ground and building a fire ring, make sure you don't have anything on our person that will ignite easier than your tinder!  If your clothing is contaminated by fuel or oils the fumes may flash into flames and light you up instead of your fire bundle!  You wouldn't want to be making sparks or creating open flames anywhere near fuel tanks or containers.  And be aware that some things you might not normally consider as flammable can be extremely so in the right concentration.  Flour dust, for example, is so volatile a one cup can generate an explosion nearly equivalent to a stick of dynamite.  With that in mind, NEVER try to use flour to extinguish a kitchen fire!  Keep in mind that both flour and sugar are made of flammable carbon and hydrogen, which are also the primary components of gasoline!

Practice! Practice! Practice!  Starting a fire without matches isn't always easy.  If it were, why did we invent matches?  If you find yourself in a survival situation, it is unlikely you'll have the time or inclination to spend hours trying to get a fire started.  You will want -- or need -- it NOW!  Even striking a spark with a flint and steel takes a little practice, so take advantage of your camping trips to try out and practice various methods of starting your campfire without matches.  You might even want to try finding natural materials that will create sparks in case you find yourself in a situation without ANY supplies whatsoever.

Many modern wilderness survivalists agree you should never go out into the woods without a good lighter.  A simple, inexpensive BIC style lighter can light hundreds of fires and the spark can even be used after it runs out of fuel.  They are very small and light and you can easily tuck on in just about any pocket, pouch, or pack.  However, even with that in mind, you might find yourself in a survival situation without any matches or lighters, in which case the skills described above might be critical to your very survival.

Light 'em up!

Survival -- Make Do

Surviving  the effects of a natural or man made disaster or being lost or stranded in the wilderness often means making best use of available resources, whatever they may be.  Les Stroud (Suvivorman) frequently touts the value of examining your environment to see what you can find that you can use.  While Les often bewails the presence of man-made trash in the wilderness, he has found it is almost everywhere, and often yields things that can be used.  Explore both the natural resources and man made debris.  What is normally considered trash can be extremely valuable in a survival situation.  "One man's trash is another man's treasure".  Most of us throw out tin cans without giving them a second thought, but tin cans can be very useful and valuable in a survival situation.  You can make a very efficient rocket stove from a single one-gallon can and a few soup cans.  Tin cans can be used as cooking pots or to boil water to purify it for drinking, washing, or medical use.  They can be flattened to patch holes in roofs or other shelters.  They can be used to collect and store food when foraging. You might even use a tin can to dig a latrine if you don't have a shovel.  In a dire emergency you might be able to use the ragged edge of a tin can as a substitute for a knife -- be sure to sterilize it first.  The bottom of an aluminum beer or soda can can be polished (a little fine sand and a chocolate bar or tooth paste makes a good rubbing compound) and used as a parabolic reflector to focus sunlight to light a fire.  Sometimes a plastic water bottle (with clear water or even urine inside) can be used to focus sun's rays to start a fire.  Plastic bottles are always handy for storing and transporting water.  Believe it or not you might even be able to boil water in a plastic bottle!  As long as the melting point of the plastic is below 212F and there is water in the bottle, it should survive.

Les Stround (Survivorman) often laments the fact that just about anywhere you go, no matter how remote, you will find trash left behind by previous visitors.  In a survival situation that is both bad news and good news.  Bad news because trash is unsightly and may harm native plants and animals.  Good news because it may provide useful resources.  Trash can be a surprisingly good resource for survival tools.  Discarded tin cans from food make good pots for cooking or boiling water.  Larger cans might be used to build stoves that make cooking easier and more efficient or allow you to bring heat into a shelter where open fire would be too dangerous.  They might be used as digging tools or flattened to cover holes in your shelter.  You might be able to use them to make traps for edible insects and small animals.  Even those loathsome plastic bags that take hundreds of years to decay in landfills can be useful in a survival situation and can provide shelter from the elements. Discarded wire may be used as lashing to create shelter or furniture or snares.  You can sometimes find fishing line complete with hooks snagged in lakes and rivers or along the banks.

It wouldn't be possible or even feasible to list all of the ways you might use trash.  The most important lesson to learn is to examine everything with an eye to how it might be used.  Ask yourself "what can I do with this?"  Some things are fairly obvious: tarps and plastic sheeting (or plastic bags) for shelter, paper, cardboard, and scrap wood for fuel for warmth and cooking, corrugated sheet metal for shelter but there are many other resources you might make use of in a survival situation.  Tin cans have many, many uses.  There are many components of disabled or abandoned vehicles that might be salvaged.  Doors, hoods, etc., might be re-purposed for shelter; lubricants like transmission fluid and motor oil can be drained and used to lubricate other machinery or burned as fuel; upholstery and padding from seat cushions can be used for padding or insulation or sometimes to make shoes or clothing; wiring may be ripped out and used as cordage for building shelters; batteries, if they still have any charge, might be used with 0000 steel wool or with wires to create sparks for starting your fire.  In a long term scenario, you might devise a way to use wind, water, or pedal power (like a bicycle) to turn a salvaged vehicle alternator to produce electricity and charge batteries.  Pieces of glass headlight lenses might be used like a magnifying glass to concentrate sun's rays to light your fire or as scraping tools for cooking or preparing animal hides to make shelter or clothing.   Even old newspapers can be used  as insulation for a shelter or under your clothes or in your bed.  Old newspaper makes surprisingly good insulation for both shelters and for your body.  The only insulation in the walls of my grandfather's house in Idaho when I was growing up was old newspapers -- and winter temps got down as low as -26° but we never froze (and neither did the pipes in the house).  They sure made interesting reading when we remodeled the old place.

Not long ago, a young Boy Scout survived being separated from his troop in freezing overnight temperatures in the Utah mountains by building a debris hut.   A debris hut is very simple to build:  just pile up a bunch of leaves and grass or pine needles and burrow into the pile or just lay down and cover yourself over with them.   It will be a lot scratchier than a feather bed, but it could keep you warm enough to save your life.  Also, make sure the debris is dry and free from insects.  Hey, even a squirrel can build a debris hut!  A large cardboard box can provide a surprising amount of protection as long as it doesn't get wet.  I've seen winter survival sleeping bags made from trash bags and bubble wrap.
 
The most important concept is to take a careful inventory of ALL the resources you might have in a survival situation.  They might be discarded items (trash) that you can make use of or natural resources that can be adapted for food, clothing, shelter, medicine, and fuel.  You never know what might come in handy if you use your imagination and seek ways to make good use of anything you have available.  In winter even snow can be a valuable resource.  Not only can you melt it to get drinking water (as long as it isn't yellow or otherwise contaminated snow!), you can use it to build shelters to protect you from the elements.  Be creative.  You might even make snowballs to defend yourself from animals or other unwelcome intruders and perhaps you could even use them as weapon for hunting small game.  Practice looking at discarded items and asking your self  "What could I do with that?" instead of just turning away in revulsion thinking, "Ugh!  Trash!"  You will want to exercise some discretion.  Partially filled beer and soda bottles found along roadsides might deliver an unpleasant surprise.  Truckers have been know to use them as urinals to avoid stopping for a restroom break so that residual golden liquid in the Bud Light bottle might not be the left over brew you hope it is!

Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without!

In SURVIVAL mode that might read:  make do or die!

More Sharpening Your Camping and Survival Skills

No matter how long you've been a camper, you can still benefit from sharpening your skills.  I doubt if any of us get to go camping as often as we'd like, and, unlike cutting tools, which can become dull with use, our skills will become dull with non-use.  No matter how good you once were at making camp or starting a fire, if you haven't practiced it lately, you'll probably find you've lost your edge if you haven't done it for a while.  That can be frustrating and embarrassing and may delay dinner, getting warm, or getting out on the trails.

The best way to sharpen or maintain your skills is to be actively using them.  For many years my family went dirt biking and camping in the Mojave Desert just about every holiday weekend.  That meant going out about once a month and that gave us a pretty good opportunity to stay in practice.  Now that my wife and I are semi-retired and have moved to Utah, our outings are much fewer and farther between.  That means that when we do get a chance to take our RV out, we have to invest some time remembering all the routine preparations we used to take for granted.   Our old check lists come in very handy, but each time we discover a few things we used to do almost automatically and thus weren't on the written checklist that we don't think about now until it's too late. 

It is also good for machines (RVs and OHVs) to be exercised regularly.  Even if you can't schedule vacation time or even a weekend away, try to take a short trip or two at least once a month.  Seals in engines and running gear can dry out and crack.  Regular use keeps them functioning.  Driving also flexes the rubber in tires to bring out compounds that guard against cracking and sun-checking.  A simple overnight trip to a nearby campground now and then can help keep both you and your equipment in better shape.  If that doesn't work, take a drive around the block or at least start the engine and let it run for 10-20 minutes or so about once a month.  If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, set the brake securely and shift through all the gears a few times so the fluid circulates if you can't drive it.

Tent campers can hone their camp making skills in the back yard. Set up your tent to refresh your skills and verify its condition between camping trips.  Spend a night or two in your tent now and then to preserve your familiarity and comfort level with sleeping on the ground.

Fire starting skills can be practiced lighting fires in your home fireplace as well as lighting campfires.  If you don't have a fireplace, maybe you can build a campfire in your back yard.  Don't have a fire pit or anyplace to make one?  Locate an old washing machine tub.  They make excellent portable fire pits.  The perforations allow ample ventilation and air flow yet restrict sparks.  You can set the tub on some bricks or concrete blocks to minimize any damage to lawns or patios and allow good air flow through the bottom for efficient burning.  The raised fire box also makes for a good "toe toaster" to warm your feet on chilly evenings.

Practice your outdoor cooking skills on your home BBQ.  They may come in really handy if there is a disaster that takes out utilities.  We once had a power outage hit right at dinner time.  Since we have an all electric house with an electric range, that pretty much took out our normal cooking facilities until power was restored.  I went out to the back yard, brushed the snow off the BBQ, and transferred the meal in progress outside.  We barely lost a couple of minutes.  Your BBQ is good for much more than cooking burgers, chicken, or steaks.  You can heat water for hot drinks and cleanup.  You can prepare soups and stews.  With the addition of a camp stove oven, you can even bake on your BBQ or camp stove.

Dutch oven cooking is a fun and easy way to prepare wholesome and tasty meals, for both camping and everyday eating.  You can put your Dutch oven on a BBQ or set it directly on coals on the ground, then put the appropriate number of lighted briquettes on top for even cooking.  If you line your Dutch oven with aluminum foil, cleanup of even sticky things like "dump cakes" is really quick and easy.  It takes a little practice to get the heat and the timing down to produce the best results, so frequent practice is highly recommended.

If you enjoy shooting (guns or archery), you need practice to maintain your skills.

Keeping your skills tuned up can be lots of fun too!   The best way, of course, is to go camping as often as you can, but even camping at home between trips can be interesting and helpful.

If you simply CAN'T get out, do some "fantasy camping" in your mind.   Not only is it fun, but some studies have shown that mentally practicing a skill improves performance.  This has even been shown with athletes such as basketball players.

Look sharp!

Camping, Survival, and Emergency Sanitation

Dealing with human waste is usually not a topic for polite company, but it is essential to know what to do when camping, in a survival situation, or during an emergency at home.  Most people have no idea that cholera, is one of the leading causes of death in refugee camps worldwide, or that it is mostly caused by poor sanitation.   Many other diseases are also fomented by poor sanitation, especially when you are dealing with groups of people.  The larger the group, the greater the hazard!  Disease kills more people in a large scale disaster than all other causes combined.

If you're staying in campgrounds with toilet facilities when camping your needs are pretty much taken care of, as long as you take advantage of the facilities and exercise a reasonable amount of healthy precaution, such as thoroughly washing your hands or using hand sanitizer after using the toilet.  That doesn't mean just a quick rinse, but at lease 15-20 seconds of vigorous scrubbing or rubbing with soap and (preferably hot) water.  The primitive pit toilets in some remote campgrounds don't have water, so bring along some hand sanitizer.

If you're dry camping in an RV, you should be in pretty good shape as long  as you don't run out of water or overflow your holding tanks.  You will want to ration your water usage and filling of our holding tanks to ensure you can make it through the outing.  Be sure to use the right holding tank chemicals in the right amounts.  Then you must properly empty and flush your holding tanks at an approved facility.  Sloppy dumping can create a bio-hazard that could affect you directly and is likely to impact many subsequent users of the facility.  Make sure to flush any spillage in the dump basin into the drain.  Always do your best to avoid any spillage outside of the dump basin and should some occur, clean it up as quickly and thoroughly as possible.

When you're tent camping  in a remote location or in survival mode, you'll be dependent on more primitive methods.  You will want to locate or designate an area downwind and downhill from your camp site as the latrine area.  For short term camping you will probably just dig your own individual latrine pit for each need.  If you're staying in the same place for several days or have a large group of people you may want to dig a larger, multi-use latrine for convenience.  Either way, it must be at least 200' from any source of water (stream, well, spring, lake).  You will want to dig a deep enough pit so you can cover your deposits to prevent people from stepping in them and to discourage animals from digging them up.  Tent campers may take advantage of portable potty chairs for added convenience.  The are usually similar to folding camp stools or camp chairs that can be fitted with plastic bags to collect the waste for proper disposal.  What can you do if you don't have soap and water to wash with?   Bring along some hand sanitizer if you can.  It is inexpensive and comes in various sizes, including "travel" sizes that are suitable for pack, purse, or pocket.  I also suggest you explore the options that may be available in nature, especially to prepare for a survival situation.  For example, sagebrush has anti-bacterial properties.  Rub your hands with sage brush leaves or "wash" them in smoke from a sagebrush fire or boil some sagebrush leaves in water to make an effective cleaning solution.  Be sure to let it cool a bit before using it.  Dry sagebrush or sagebrush smoke won't remove dirt and grime but it will kill bacteria.  Some plants may make a suitable substitute for toilet paper, especially mullen, which is sometimes called "Desert Charmin".  Test any plants you plan to use on your arm and wait about an hour to check the results before using it on more sensitive parts of your body.

During a disaster or emergency situation at home normal utilities may be out for several days or more.  It may be possible to continue to use your residential toilet (as long as the sewer system is still in tact), even if your water is off, by manually filling the toilet tank.  You don't need potable water to fill the toilet tank.  Save that for drinking!  Even muddy or contaminated water from streams or lakes or even puddles will do.  By the way, this only works for gravity feed toilets.  You need good water pressure to operate below-grade toilets you find in some basements.  Lacking sufficient water to operate your toilet,  you'll have to make other arrangements like you might use for tent camping or in survival mode.  Some home survival kits include a toilet seat that fits on a 5 gallon bucket fitted with a plastic bag to create a fairly comfortable and reasonably sanitary toilet.  Just make sure to tightly seal and properly stow or dispose of the plastic bags after using them.  This is probably a more desirable solution than trying to dig a latrine in your back yard.   If you live in a rural area where you have plenty of raw land available, a pit latrine may be an option, but I wouldn't recommend it for an urban or suburban environment.  There is a product called "Wag Bags" that are designed for safe disposal of human waste.  These tough plastic bags have zip closures and are said to be puncture resistant.  They come with chemicals that convert the waste to a gel to minimize spillage and control odors.  You can buy a dozen for about $40 as places like REI, Camping World, and even Amazon.com.  In a pinch you can use ordinary heavy duty trash bags in a 5-gallon bucket as a makeshift toilet.  Be sure to tie them off tightly when you are done and be careful when moving them.

With a little knowledge, care, and planning, you should be able to manage human wastes without creating an unreasonable bio-hazard, whether you're camping for recreation, in a survival situation, or weathering out a disaster at home.

No crap!

Bug Out Vehicles

 Just what is a "bug out vehicle"?  The definition may differ depending on your strategy for dealing with emergency situations.  For some folks, who have ready access to stable roads, an RV may be a good bug out vehicle because it can be set up to contain everything you need for survival (food, shelter, water, first aid supplies, and sanitation facilities) just about anywhere.  But if you live where roads may become impassable during an emergency you may need something else, perhaps a 4WD or other off road vehicle -- or maybe even a horse or mule!  Your every day car might be used as a bug out vehicle if you don't have anything else available and the roads are useable.  In a rural area, you might even use a horse or other animal as your bug out "vehicle".

First of all, what does it mean to "bug out"?  "Bug out" is a popular term for abandoning your home in favor or a more viable location to survive a disaster.  Well prepared survivalists or "preppers" have usually pre-selected one or more possible destinations they could escape to if remaining at home were no longer safe.  In the most basic usage, you might "bug out" to a designated FEMA, Red Cross, or community emergency shelter, but is is usually used to describe traveling to a new personal safe haven for you and your family, often a rural location for primitive survival.  What kind of bug out vehicle you might need will depend entirely on what your bug out plans are.  If you're only going to be going to a local designated shelter, your family car or even a bicycle might be adequate, but if you have prepared a personal or family shelter in some remote location, you will need to consider a vehicle that is capable of getting you there even if roads are damaged or closed.  Fuel range is also a consideration.  In a disaster situation it is highly likely that gas stations will be inoperable due to power outages or sold out because deliveries are delayed.

The purpose of a "bug out vehicle" is to give you a way to evacuate your home during some kind of emergency.  If you have survival plans than include escaping to a remote mountain cabin or a cave, you need to have a vehicle capable of carrying you, your family, and your supplies to reach your bug out location.  That may mean adding extra fuel tanks or gas cans if your bug out location is far from home.  Since fuel is likely to be in high demand in a disaster, try to carry it where you don't advertise that it is there.  An alternative might be to cache fuel along the way if you can find  places where it will be safe until you need it.

You don't have to be heading to some secret, remote location for a bug out vehicle to be useful.  Even if you are only "bugging out" to to nearest Red Cross, FEMA, or other community relief shelter, having your own bug out vehicle can help you get there in relative comfort and with the supplies you need for your personal health, safety, and comfort.  Community shelters aren't likely to be stocked with your specific prescription medicines, preferred OTC medications, or any special dietary needs you or your family may have.  About all you can count on is having a roof over your head and basic protection from the elements.  If you're lucky you may get a cot or a least a blanket or two to sleep on and maybe some basic restroom facilities and some simple meals.  We had to evacuate our home in a suburban community in southern California when a careless forklift operator knocked the valve off a large chlorine bulk storage tank.  We used our 28' Class A motorhome.  One of the approved shelters a few miles upwind of the chlorine gas cloud was at a church we were familiar with.  We parked our motorhome in the church parking lot and had everything we needed to last out the time it took for the toxic cloud to dissipate, without the humiliation (or risk) of sharing living spaces with hundreds of strangers.

What is the "ultimate bug out vehicle?"  You may see manufacturers make claims that they have the ultimate bug out vehicle, but as mentioned in the opening paragraph, the kind of vehicle you need will depend on where you live and where you need to or plan to bug out to.  Sure, it might be nice to have a $600,000 bullet-proof all-terrain expedition vehicle built to military specs and equipped with solar panels, elaborate water filtration systems, and a multi-fuel engine, but few of us could afford it and most most of us would never need it.  And having it might make you a target during an emergency situation.  Only YOU can determine what kind of vehicle is right for you.  I live in a rural area.  In addition to my motorhome I have an 11 1/2' camper and 1-ton 4WD pickup, plus dirt bikes and horses.  My first preference for evacuating my home should it be necessary, would be my motorhome.  Next would be my truck and camper, whose smaller size and 4WD would give me more places I could go.  If roads were impassable, I could go lots of places with my dirt bike, with my bug-out bag on my back.  If all else fails we could saddle up the horses and escape with whatever we could carry in our back packs and saddle bags.  If you live near a navigable lake or stream (or think you'll be crossing same to reach your destination) you might want to include some kind of marine transportation like a foldable or inflatable boat or raft or even a simple canoe.  I knew a guy who kept small airplane at a private airfield and a sail boat in a marina in the Los Angeles area in case he couldn't get out of town any other way.  That was in addition to a 4WD Landcruiser and some OHVs in his garage.

Security by obscurity is a valid concept that may help keep you safe from marauders in disaster situation.   Having a 10' razor wire fence around your compound may seem like a good idea but when things get desperate it screams "there's good stuff here" and may attract a lot of unwanted attention.  Likewise, a big fancy bug out vehicle may draw more attention than a beat up looking old 4x4 pickup.

Do an Internet search for "bug out vehicle" and you'll get tons of results ranging from a 10 wheel, all wheel drive behemoth RV with military ancestry to tricked out Jeeps and various tracked vehicles.   If nothing else, just looking at them is educational and entertaining!

Bug out and be safe!

Guide to Surviving Winter Kayaking (Guest Post)

                                          * * *   GUEST POST * * * 

"As the weather gets colder and winter approaches, many paddlers hang up their paddles until the water and air become more bearable in the spring. However, there are some paddling enthusiasts that consider winter a minor setback in their kayaking adventures. Depending on where you live, kayaking in the wintertime can be quite enjoyable, but it certainly poses some risks you may not encounter in warmer weather.

 

Before you put your kayak away for the season, take a look below at our tips for taking on winter kayaking.

How skilled are you?

Your kayaking skills play an important role in kayaking during the winter. You must be confident in your paddling. It’s important to be prepared on your course of action if you happen to fall out of your kayak. The chances of falling out of your kayak during winter paddling is not increased compared to any other season, but the consequences of it are much worse because of the cold temperatures of both the water and the air.

For those that use sit on top kayaks, this means being confident in your ability to climb back onto your kayak. For sit inside paddlers, this means developing a good bracing technique to keep your yak from flipping. Knowing a reliable roll technique is also important for worse case scenarios. Ideally, you’d want to perfect these techniques in warmer weather when your immersion doesn’t pose such a great risk. If you aren’t 100% confident in your abilities, seek help from experience kayaking friends, local instructors, or online resources.

Purchase Good Winter Gear

The purpose of winter kayaking gear should serve two purposes: to keep you warm and to keep you dry. Winter paddle gear is going to look completely different than your summer outing gear. You should be dressing for immersion in addition to dressing for general warmth in the chilly weather. It’s important to note that even if you don’t plan for a swim, it doesn’t mean you are not at risk of getting wet from splash or rain. Being prepared means a more enjoyable outing.

The exact items you need to wear for a wintertime water outing varies on several factors like personal comfort, water temperature, water conditions, and the type of water you are paddling in. Dressing in layers is a smart idea; if you get warm, you can easily remove a layer. Start with waterproof outer layers and warm inner layers.

In addition to dressing the part, it’s important to have emergency gear on you, no matter the season. Consider bringing along the following: extra set of warm clothing in a waterproof bag, emergency paddle, rescue stirrup, emergency blanket, fire starter, first aid kit, and a means of communication (cell phone, radio, etc.).

Put Safety First

The most important thing to remember while paddling in the wintertime is to always put your safety, and the safety of others, first. Don’t take any extra risks you don’t need to and always take precaution everywhere you go. Kayaking during the winter means there will be less people on the water, so you need to be able to rely on yourself and your paddling partner if something goes wrong. Tips to keep in mind are:

·         Always paddle with at least one partner

·         Make sure someone on land knows where you plan on kayaking and when you’re going out

·         Watch the weather forecasts for any unforeseen storms

·         While on the water, stay as close to the shoreline as you can to minimize the distance you would have to swim if something went awry.

·         ALWAYS wear a life jacket!

Winter kayaking definitely takes a lot of preparation and precaution, and is only recommended for advanced paddlers. There are plenty of resources and appropriate gear you can pick up at Austin Kayak!