More Sharpening Your Camping and Survival Skills

No matter how long you've been a camper, you can still benefit from sharpening your skills.  I doubt if any of us get to go camping as often as we'd like, and, unlike cutting tools, which can become dull with use, our skills will become dull with non-use.  No matter how good you once were at making camp or starting a fire, if you haven't practiced it lately, you'll probably find you've lost your edge if you haven't done it for a while.  That can be frustrating and embarrassing and may delay dinner, getting warm, or getting out on the trails.

The best way to sharpen or maintain your skills is to be actively using them.  For many years my family went dirt biking and camping in the Mojave Desert just about every holiday weekend.  That meant going out about once a month and that gave us a pretty good opportunity to stay in practice.  Now that my wife and I are semi-retired and have moved to Utah, our outings are much fewer and farther between.  That means that when we do get a chance to take our RV out, we have to invest some time remembering all the routine preparations we used to take for granted.   Our old check lists come in very handy, but each time we discover a few things we used to do almost automatically and thus weren't on the written checklist that we don't think about now until it's too late. 

It is also good for machines (RVs and OHVs) to be exercised regularly.  Even if you can't schedule vacation time or even a weekend away, try to take a short trip or two at least once a month.  Seals in engines and running gear can dry out and crack.  Regular use keeps them functioning.  Driving also flexes the rubber in tires to bring out compounds that guard against cracking and sun-checking.  A simple overnight trip to a nearby campground now and then can help keep both you and your equipment in better shape.  If that doesn't work, take a drive around the block or at least start the engine and let it run for 10-20 minutes or so about once a month.  If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, set the brake securely and shift through all the gears a few times so the fluid circulates if you can't drive it.

Tent campers can hone their camp making skills in the back yard. Set up your tent to refresh your skills and verify its condition between camping trips.  Spend a night or two in your tent now and then to preserve your familiarity and comfort level with sleeping on the ground.

Fire starting skills can be practiced lighting fires in your home fireplace as well as lighting campfires.  If you don't have a fireplace, maybe you can build a campfire in your back yard.  Don't have a fire pit or anyplace to make one?  Locate an old washing machine tub.  They make excellent portable fire pits.  The perforations allow ample ventilation and air flow yet restrict sparks.  You can set the tub on some bricks or concrete blocks to minimize any damage to lawns or patios and allow good air flow through the bottom for efficient burning.  The raised fire box also makes for a good "toe toaster" to warm your feet on chilly evenings.

Practice your outdoor cooking skills on your home BBQ.  They may come in really handy if there is a disaster that takes out utilities.  We once had a power outage hit right at dinner time.  Since we have an all electric house with an electric range, that pretty much took out our normal cooking facilities until power was restored.  I went out to the back yard, brushed the snow off the BBQ, and transferred the meal in progress outside.  We barely lost a couple of minutes.  Your BBQ is good for much more than cooking burgers, chicken, or steaks.  You can heat water for hot drinks and cleanup.  You can prepare soups and stews.  With the addition of a camp stove oven, you can even bake on your BBQ or camp stove.

Dutch oven cooking is a fun and easy way to prepare wholesome and tasty meals, for both camping and everyday eating.  You can put your Dutch oven on a BBQ or set it directly on coals on the ground, then put the appropriate number of lighted briquettes on top for even cooking.  If you line your Dutch oven with aluminum foil, cleanup of even sticky things like "dump cakes" is really quick and easy.  It takes a little practice to get the heat and the timing down to produce the best results, so frequent practice is highly recommended.

If you enjoy shooting (guns or archery), you need practice to maintain your skills.

Keeping your skills tuned up can be lots of fun too!   The best way, of course, is to go camping as often as you can, but even camping at home between trips can be interesting and helpful.

If you simply CAN'T get out, do some "fantasy camping" in your mind.   Not only is it fun, but some studies have shown that mentally practicing a skill improves performance.  This has even been shown with athletes such as basketball players.

Look sharp!

Camping, Survival, and Emergency Sanitation

Dealing with human waste is usually not a topic for polite company, but it is essential to know what to do when camping, in a survival situation, or during an emergency at home.  Most people have no idea that cholera, is one of the leading causes of death in refugee camps worldwide, or that it is mostly caused by poor sanitation.   Many other diseases are also fomented by poor sanitation, especially when you are dealing with groups of people.  The larger the group, the greater the hazard!  Disease kills more people in a large scale disaster than all other causes combined.

If you're staying in campgrounds with toilet facilities when camping your needs are pretty much taken care of, as long as you take advantage of the facilities and exercise a reasonable amount of healthy precaution, such as thoroughly washing your hands or using hand sanitizer after using the toilet.  That doesn't mean just a quick rinse, but at lease 15-20 seconds of vigorous scrubbing or rubbing with soap and (preferably hot) water.  The primitive pit toilets in some remote campgrounds don't have water, so bring along some hand sanitizer.

If you're dry camping in an RV, you should be in pretty good shape as long  as you don't run out of water or overflow your holding tanks.  You will want to ration your water usage and filling of our holding tanks to ensure you can make it through the outing.  Be sure to use the right holding tank chemicals in the right amounts.  Then you must properly empty and flush your holding tanks at an approved facility.  Sloppy dumping can create a bio-hazard that could affect you directly and is likely to impact many subsequent users of the facility.  Make sure to flush any spillage in the dump basin into the drain.  Always do your best to avoid any spillage outside of the dump basin and should some occur, clean it up as quickly and thoroughly as possible.

When you're tent camping  in a remote location or in survival mode, you'll be dependent on more primitive methods.  You will want to locate or designate an area downwind and downhill from your camp site as the latrine area.  For short term camping you will probably just dig your own individual latrine pit for each need.  If you're staying in the same place for several days or have a large group of people you may want to dig a larger, multi-use latrine for convenience.  Either way, it must be at least 200' from any source of water (stream, well, spring, lake).  You will want to dig a deep enough pit so you can cover your deposits to prevent people from stepping in them and to discourage animals from digging them up.  Tent campers may take advantage of portable potty chairs for added convenience.  The are usually similar to folding camp stools or camp chairs that can be fitted with plastic bags to collect the waste for proper disposal.  What can you do if you don't have soap and water to wash with?   Bring along some hand sanitizer if you can.  It is inexpensive and comes in various sizes, including "travel" sizes that are suitable for pack, purse, or pocket.  I also suggest you explore the options that may be available in nature, especially to prepare for a survival situation.  For example, sagebrush has anti-bacterial properties.  Rub your hands with sage brush leaves or "wash" them in smoke from a sagebrush fire or boil some sagebrush leaves in water to make an effective cleaning solution.  Be sure to let it cool a bit before using it.  Dry sagebrush or sagebrush smoke won't remove dirt and grime but it will kill bacteria.  Some plants may make a suitable substitute for toilet paper, especially mullen, which is sometimes called "Desert Charmin".  Test any plants you plan to use on your arm and wait about an hour to check the results before using it on more sensitive parts of your body.

During a disaster or emergency situation at home normal utilities may be out for several days or more.  It may be possible to continue to use your residential toilet (as long as the sewer system is still in tact), even if your water is off, by manually filling the toilet tank.  You don't need potable water to fill the toilet tank.  Save that for drinking!  Even muddy or contaminated water from streams or lakes or even puddles will do.  By the way, this only works for gravity feed toilets.  You need good water pressure to operate below-grade toilets you find in some basements.  Lacking sufficient water to operate your toilet,  you'll have to make other arrangements like you might use for tent camping or in survival mode.  Some home survival kits include a toilet seat that fits on a 5 gallon bucket fitted with a plastic bag to create a fairly comfortable and reasonably sanitary toilet.  Just make sure to tightly seal and properly stow or dispose of the plastic bags after using them.  This is probably a more desirable solution than trying to dig a latrine in your back yard.   If you live in a rural area where you have plenty of raw land available, a pit latrine may be an option, but I wouldn't recommend it for an urban or suburban environment.  There is a product called "Wag Bags" that are designed for safe disposal of human waste.  These tough plastic bags have zip closures and are said to be puncture resistant.  They come with chemicals that convert the waste to a gel to minimize spillage and control odors.  You can buy a dozen for about $40 as places like REI, Camping World, and even Amazon.com.  In a pinch you can use ordinary heavy duty trash bags in a 5-gallon bucket as a makeshift toilet.  Be sure to tie them off tightly when you are done and be careful when moving them.

With a little knowledge, care, and planning, you should be able to manage human wastes without creating an unreasonable bio-hazard, whether you're camping for recreation, in a survival situation, or weathering out a disaster at home.

No crap!

Bug Out Vehicles

 Just what is a "bug out vehicle"?  The definition may differ depending on your strategy for dealing with emergency situations.  For some folks, who have ready access to stable roads, an RV may be a good bug out vehicle because it can be set up to contain everything you need for survival (food, shelter, water, first aid supplies, and sanitation facilities) just about anywhere.  But if you live where roads may become impassable during an emergency you may need something else, perhaps a 4WD or other off road vehicle -- or maybe even a horse or mule!  Your every day car might be used as a bug out vehicle if you don't have anything else available and the roads are useable.  In a rural area, you might even use a horse or other animal as your bug out "vehicle".

First of all, what does it mean to "bug out"?  "Bug out" is a popular term for abandoning your home in favor or a more viable location to survive a disaster.  Well prepared survivalists or "preppers" have usually pre-selected one or more possible destinations they could escape to if remaining at home were no longer safe.  In the most basic usage, you might "bug out" to a designated FEMA, Red Cross, or community emergency shelter, but is is usually used to describe traveling to a new personal safe haven for you and your family, often a rural location for primitive survival.  What kind of bug out vehicle you might need will depend entirely on what your bug out plans are.  If you're only going to be going to a local designated shelter, your family car or even a bicycle might be adequate, but if you have prepared a personal or family shelter in some remote location, you will need to consider a vehicle that is capable of getting you there even if roads are damaged or closed.  Fuel range is also a consideration.  In a disaster situation it is highly likely that gas stations will be inoperable due to power outages or sold out because deliveries are delayed.

The purpose of a "bug out vehicle" is to give you a way to evacuate your home during some kind of emergency.  If you have survival plans than include escaping to a remote mountain cabin or a cave, you need to have a vehicle capable of carrying you, your family, and your supplies to reach your bug out location.  That may mean adding extra fuel tanks or gas cans if your bug out location is far from home.  Since fuel is likely to be in high demand in a disaster, try to carry it where you don't advertise that it is there.  An alternative might be to cache fuel along the way if you can find  places where it will be safe until you need it.

You don't have to be heading to some secret, remote location for a bug out vehicle to be useful.  Even if you are only "bugging out" to to nearest Red Cross, FEMA, or other community relief shelter, having your own bug out vehicle can help you get there in relative comfort and with the supplies you need for your personal health, safety, and comfort.  Community shelters aren't likely to be stocked with your specific prescription medicines, preferred OTC medications, or any special dietary needs you or your family may have.  About all you can count on is having a roof over your head and basic protection from the elements.  If you're lucky you may get a cot or a least a blanket or two to sleep on and maybe some basic restroom facilities and some simple meals.  We had to evacuate our home in a suburban community in southern California when a careless forklift operator knocked the valve off a large chlorine bulk storage tank.  We used our 28' Class A motorhome.  One of the approved shelters a few miles upwind of the chlorine gas cloud was at a church we were familiar with.  We parked our motorhome in the church parking lot and had everything we needed to last out the time it took for the toxic cloud to dissipate, without the humiliation (or risk) of sharing living spaces with hundreds of strangers.

What is the "ultimate bug out vehicle?"  You may see manufacturers make claims that they have the ultimate bug out vehicle, but as mentioned in the opening paragraph, the kind of vehicle you need will depend on where you live and where you need to or plan to bug out to.  Sure, it might be nice to have a $600,000 bullet-proof all-terrain expedition vehicle built to military specs and equipped with solar panels, elaborate water filtration systems, and a multi-fuel engine, but few of us could afford it and most most of us would never need it.  And having it might make you a target during an emergency situation.  Only YOU can determine what kind of vehicle is right for you.  I live in a rural area.  In addition to my motorhome I have an 11 1/2' camper and 1-ton 4WD pickup, plus dirt bikes and horses.  My first preference for evacuating my home should it be necessary, would be my motorhome.  Next would be my truck and camper, whose smaller size and 4WD would give me more places I could go.  If roads were impassable, I could go lots of places with my dirt bike, with my bug-out bag on my back.  If all else fails we could saddle up the horses and escape with whatever we could carry in our back packs and saddle bags.  If you live near a navigable lake or stream (or think you'll be crossing same to reach your destination) you might want to include some kind of marine transportation like a foldable or inflatable boat or raft or even a simple canoe.  I knew a guy who kept small airplane at a private airfield and a sail boat in a marina in the Los Angeles area in case he couldn't get out of town any other way.  That was in addition to a 4WD Landcruiser and some OHVs in his garage.

Security by obscurity is a valid concept that may help keep you safe from marauders in disaster situation.   Having a 10' razor wire fence around your compound may seem like a good idea but when things get desperate it screams "there's good stuff here" and may attract a lot of unwanted attention.  Likewise, a big fancy bug out vehicle may draw more attention than a beat up looking old 4x4 pickup.

Do an Internet search for "bug out vehicle" and you'll get tons of results ranging from a 10 wheel, all wheel drive behemoth RV with military ancestry to tricked out Jeeps and various tracked vehicles.   If nothing else, just looking at them is educational and entertaining!

Bug out and be safe!

Guide to Surviving Winter Kayaking (Guest Post)

                                          * * *   GUEST POST * * * 

"As the weather gets colder and winter approaches, many paddlers hang up their paddles until the water and air become more bearable in the spring. However, there are some paddling enthusiasts that consider winter a minor setback in their kayaking adventures. Depending on where you live, kayaking in the wintertime can be quite enjoyable, but it certainly poses some risks you may not encounter in warmer weather.

 

Before you put your kayak away for the season, take a look below at our tips for taking on winter kayaking.

How skilled are you?

Your kayaking skills play an important role in kayaking during the winter. You must be confident in your paddling. It’s important to be prepared on your course of action if you happen to fall out of your kayak. The chances of falling out of your kayak during winter paddling is not increased compared to any other season, but the consequences of it are much worse because of the cold temperatures of both the water and the air.

For those that use sit on top kayaks, this means being confident in your ability to climb back onto your kayak. For sit inside paddlers, this means developing a good bracing technique to keep your yak from flipping. Knowing a reliable roll technique is also important for worse case scenarios. Ideally, you’d want to perfect these techniques in warmer weather when your immersion doesn’t pose such a great risk. If you aren’t 100% confident in your abilities, seek help from experience kayaking friends, local instructors, or online resources.

Purchase Good Winter Gear

The purpose of winter kayaking gear should serve two purposes: to keep you warm and to keep you dry. Winter paddle gear is going to look completely different than your summer outing gear. You should be dressing for immersion in addition to dressing for general warmth in the chilly weather. It’s important to note that even if you don’t plan for a swim, it doesn’t mean you are not at risk of getting wet from splash or rain. Being prepared means a more enjoyable outing.

The exact items you need to wear for a wintertime water outing varies on several factors like personal comfort, water temperature, water conditions, and the type of water you are paddling in. Dressing in layers is a smart idea; if you get warm, you can easily remove a layer. Start with waterproof outer layers and warm inner layers.

In addition to dressing the part, it’s important to have emergency gear on you, no matter the season. Consider bringing along the following: extra set of warm clothing in a waterproof bag, emergency paddle, rescue stirrup, emergency blanket, fire starter, first aid kit, and a means of communication (cell phone, radio, etc.).

Put Safety First

The most important thing to remember while paddling in the wintertime is to always put your safety, and the safety of others, first. Don’t take any extra risks you don’t need to and always take precaution everywhere you go. Kayaking during the winter means there will be less people on the water, so you need to be able to rely on yourself and your paddling partner if something goes wrong. Tips to keep in mind are:

·         Always paddle with at least one partner

·         Make sure someone on land knows where you plan on kayaking and when you’re going out

·         Watch the weather forecasts for any unforeseen storms

·         While on the water, stay as close to the shoreline as you can to minimize the distance you would have to swim if something went awry.

·         ALWAYS wear a life jacket!

Winter kayaking definitely takes a lot of preparation and precaution, and is only recommended for advanced paddlers. There are plenty of resources and appropriate gear you can pick up at Austin Kayak!

 

Solar Panels -- Free Light and Power from the Sun

We all take advantage of free solar lighting every day.  Its called "daylight".  But did you know the whole world runs on solar power one way or another.  Even coal and petroleum originated from solar power millions of years ago.  And even nuclear power comes from the remnants of dead stars!  But with solar panels or solar powered lights and good batteries we can extend free lighting options well after dark.  Many pieces of gear, like lanterns and other lights, are available with their own built in or attached solar panels, eliminating any installation issues.

Solar energy may be free, but the equipment to use it definitely isn't.  Solar lanterns, solar battery chargers, and solar panels for boats and RVs will deliver lots of electrical power for free -- once you've made the initial investment in the technology.  Solar appliances are usually somewhat more expensive to buy than their simple battery powered counterparts, but you'll save money on batteries.  Also, you can recharge solar items anytime there is light so you don't need 12 volt or 120 volt power for recharging.  Most solar powered lights use LEDs which  means they use a lot less energy, making the solar charge last even longer.

Solar powered lanterns are becoming more readily available, more affordable, and more popular with campers.  I often see solar lanterns around $10 each.  Solar power means you don't have to carry messy or volatile, dangerous fuels, pack extra batteries, or run down your vehicle batteries to have adequate lighting in camp.  Solar powered lanterns are especially handy for tent campers who won't have the luxury of 12 volt lighting of RVs but are still useful when camping in an RV.  Solar powered chargers might even be powerful enough to recharge your cell phone or even your laptop. Some solar powered lanterns these days even have built-in USB ports to charge cell phones and other light usage devices.  Solar powered lights are getting more and more affordable.  You can even find them at dollar stores, usually in the form of pathway lights, but sometimes as little camping lanterns.

Solar panels are also becoming more common on RVs, collecting power to charge batteries during the day so you can use your RV lighting at night.  With a large solar panel system, a massive battery bank,and an inverter you may even be able to run many 120 volt appliances without needing to fire up the generator.  RV roofs are usually large enough to provide space for quite a lot of solar energy collecting surface.  Even many boats have enough roof space on the cabin for solar panels -- and they are a lot less weight than a generator!

Solar powered "garden" or walkway lights can be used to mark tent pegs and guy ropes to prevent people from tripping over them in the dark.  I've found small solar walkway lights at my local dollar store, so they don't have to be expensive.  Sometimes you can adapt these small walkway lights for more general purposes like tent lighting.  Remove the ground stake (it usually pulls out easily) and add a bail to hang it with or make a base for the spike on the light from an old coffee can or similar container filled with sand, rice, or beans.

Solar panels and the associated controllers and regulators for powering RV systems are still relatively expensive.  A basic solar system for a boat or RV will likely cost $200-$300 plus installation.  A system capable of routinely running significant 120 volt appliances will be far more expensive -- plus the extra batteries you'll need to store your free solar energy.  An easy and inexpensive, though low power option, is a small solar panel that plugs into a vehicle cigarette lighter.  They're usually around $20-$30.  They are usually about twice the size of  smartphone.  They won't provide enough power to run appliances, but they are usually enough to maintain batteries while the RV is in storage when there is no load on the electrical system.  They may be enough to recharge cell phones and other small battery powered appliances.  They won't be able to keep up with power drain from lights or other 12-volt items in your RV.

Solar controllers may each have their own strengths and weaknesses.  Compare the capabilities of controllers and try to match yours to your particular needs.  The first controller I had with the solar panel on my boat supported keeping the battery charged even when the panel was under a green tarp over the winter.  I upgraded to a newer panel with more features but using the same panel and the same battery and the same tarp my battery went dead in a few months.  Haven't tried switching back yet as the new controller includes USB ports for charging our cell phones and it worked perfectly out on the lake.

Special solar battery chargers can be used to recharge any rechargable batteries.  This is a very versatile option since it can be used to recharge replaceable batteries for lanterns, flashlights, and many other battery powered devices.  For best results use only rechargeable batteries. Ordinary dry cell batteries are not designed to be recharged and attempting to do so may not be successful and may even be dangerous.  Non-rechargeable batteries may swell, leak, or even explode when you try to recharge them.  Fairly inexpensive solar powered chargers are also available to recharge cell phones, iPads, and notebook computers.

Solar powered lanterns are usually a little more costly than battery powered lanterns, but you will probably make up the difference fairly quickly in savings by not having to buy batteries again and again.  Rechargeable lanterns don't need new batteries regularly but they do need an outside source of power (12 volt or 120 volt) for periodic recharging.   With solar lights you will need to remember to put them out in direct light for a few hours every day to keep them charged.  Leaving them your tent or in a cabinet or closet in your RV will be very disappointing.  Sometimes the light inside a tent or vehicle is sufficient, but for faster and more complete charging, expose the solar panel to direct sunlight for several hours every day whenever possible.  I have found solar powered camping lanterns for as little as $10 and even bought a couple of very small solar lanterns at Dollar Tree a while back.  Some solar lanterns now include USB ports so you an use them to charge your cell phone too.

Because LEDs are far more efficient than incandescent bulbs, solar lights usually use LEDs.  Incandescent bulbs have wattage ratings based on the resistance of the filament, which in turn determines how much light (and heat) they will produce.  A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60 watt bulb.  Higher output for LED applications is usually created by using multiple LEDs, so a 17 LED lantern will be brighter than a 9 LED light.  I have a 17 LED battery powered lantern it the shape of an old school kerosene lantern that provides pretty good general illumination for camping and for power outages at home.  Unfortunately, it is not solar powered.  It runs on 3 "D" cell batteries. The LEDs  are so energy efficient that I once left the lantern on over night and it didn't run down the batteries.  On the other hand, a guest once left a single incandescent 12-volt light on in the bathroom of my motorhome and the house batteries (two deep cycle 12-volt batteries) were completely drained in just an afternoon.  Incandescent flashlights and lanterns that run on dry cell batteries will run the batteries down even faster.  It makes sense.  Think about it.  An incandescent bulb is basically a dead short between the positive and negative poles of your battery.  It is resistance creates light by super-heating the filament.

Keep your eye open for sales on solar lights.   That is one way to help keep the cost down.  I've often seen solar walkway lights in my local dollar store.  These are perfect for marking tent pegs so you don't trip over them and with a little creative modification you can usually adapt them for more general use.  One simple adaptation is to make a holder for them using an old coffee can or similar sized container.  Make a hole in the top the size of the stake for the light, then fill the container with enough sand or other heavy material to hold the light securely.  Another option is removing the pegs or stakes and fashioning some kind of hook or bail to hang the lights.  I picked up a couple of small solar/LED lanterns at Family Dollar for $2 each.  They are just the right size for tent lights -- about 4" tall a 3" in diameter.

Remember to put your solar lights and other solar appliances out in the direct sun to keep them charged.  Some may get a little energy from artificial light sources, but for maximum benefit, put them in direct sunlight. A solar powered tent light is an ideal source of safe and economical illumination, but not if you leave it in the tent all the time!

Another handy solar application is a fan to cool the refrigerator coils.   It is really nice to not have to worry about running the batteries down running the fan all the time.  Since things generally cool off at night you don't have as much need of the fan when there is no sun to power it.  Solar fridge fans come an a variety of sizes and prices.  The larger, more expensive models cool better, but even a small fan improves air movement over the coils and helps to some extent.  Basically, the more air you can move, the better it will cool the fridge.  The most convenient ones I've seen have the fan and solar panel built into a replacement refrigerator roof  vent making installation a snap.

Solar panels are becoming popular options for boondocking.   About the only deterrent to using them is the rather high acquisition cost.  A solar system sufficient to maintain RV batteries will set you back several hundred dollars, but once you have it, you get free, quiet energy from the sun to run your RV electrical appliances.  Tie solar panels to a large battery bank and a high powered inverter and you can almost get by without running your on board generator.  The size of solar panels makes them less appealing for tent camping but if you have the room to transport them you could make them work.

Solar panels are a particularly good fit for sailboats, allowing you to charge your batteries without the need for a generator, running the auxiliary engine, or connecting to shore power.  Panels may be permanently mounted or installed on movable brackets so you can change alignment as needed to keep them aimed at the sun and move them out of the shadows of the sails.  I used 45-wall panel on a fixed mount on the forward slope of the cabin on our sailboat and it generally got enough sun to keep the Group 24 12-volt marine deep cycle battery charged.

If you like to park in the shade, you won't get full capacity out of your solar panels.  They work best in full sun and when oriented so they face the sun directly at right angles.  Properly installed solar panels should be adjustable so you can face them directly toward the sun regardless of vehicle position.  Portable solar panels allow you to put them just about anywhere and adjust the alignment as needed throughout the day.  I was, however, surprised that my solar panels still working under the green farm tarp I put over my boat in the winter.

Light up for free!

Grab-and-Go or Bug Out Bags

Also known as a 72-hour kit, grab-and-go or bug out bags are designed to give you the resources you need to survive the first 3 days of a disaster.  You can buy ready made 72-hour kits, but most people build their own.  Building your own ensures you have what YOU will need, not just what someone else thinks you will need.  A commercial 72-hour kit is a good starting point, but you'll need to augment it with your personal prescriptions and any over the counter medications you might use routinely.  You may also want to carefully review the meals that come in your store-bought kit and update the menu to fit your personal and family tastes.

Why would bug out bags be of interest to campers?  Well, you might use a camping trip to test your bug out bags to make sure you have what you will need and won't be carrying around a lot of excess weight from things you don't need.

My primary bug out bag is on wheels.  I keep my motorhome stocked with food, clothing, medication, and sanitation supplies.  I call it my "DRV":  Disaster Recovery Vehicle.  During the summer I keep the fresh water tank full.  When I lived in southern California and didn't have to worry about freeze problems I kept the fresh water tank full year round.  But some disasters may make it impossible to use my motorhome in a bug out so I still try to keep a small 72-hour kit handy that I can grab-and-go.

A grab-and-go or bug out bag should be self contained and small enough that you can carry it with you if you have to evacuate on foot.  A back pack is a good format for a bug out bag.  It should contain everything you need to survive for at least 3 days:  food, water, first aid supplies, medications, extra clothing, sanitation items, gloves, some basic tools, a little emergency cash, and your bug out plan.  It isn't going to to you much good to have a bug out bag if you don't have someplace to bug out to.  You need to have a plan, know where you're going and how you're going to get there.  And you'll probably need alternate plans in case your primary route or destination is no longer functional.  You may be forced to evacuate to a FEMA emergency shelter and your bug out bag will ensure you will be more comfortable than folks who show up without anything but the clothes on their backs and what they have in their pockets.

Even if you are part of a government mandated and organized evacuation, having your own personal 72-hour kit can ensure you will be more comfortable than if you're simply hauled off to a FEMA camp or to the local high school gym and totally dependent on government emergency supplies.  Having recently experienced a level 3 evacuation first hand due to the Holiday Farm fire, I can assure you that you will be very hungry if you wait for FEMA to feed you! Locally organized relief centers appeared literally overnight to aid the victims of the fire, providing food, clothing, blankets, sanitation supplies, water, first aid supplies and even tents, sleeping bags and other camping essentials.  The response from nearby communities was so great that the county emergency preparedness agency had to ask people to hold off bringing donations for a while because they ran out of places to store and distribute them.

Keep your RV or your camping gear ready to go at a moment's notice.  Not only will  you be prepared in case there is an emergency that requires you to evacuate your home, you will have things ready to go for spontaneous outings.  There are times we need to escape the stress of everyday life to keep our sanity.  Having things ready to go gives you a chance for an occasional weekend getaway when you need a "mental health day".  If you're a tent camper, keep all your camping gear and supplies together and well organized into tubs or bins so you can hit the road quickly.  If you favor RVs for your outings, keep them ready to go:  motor fuel, propane, and fresh water full, holding tanks empty, basic food on board, medicine cabinets fully stocked, and some extra clothing in the closet.  Even if evacuation isn't necessary, being able to move out of a damaged home and into an RV or tent on your own property gives you an option to being hauled away into a refugee camp.  Being able to stay near your home may allow you to protect your property and have access to stored supplies.

Exercising your grab-and-go kits is a good way to practice your emergency survival skills -- and give you a chance for some spontaneous outings each year.  Doing a practice run lets you discover deficiencies in your kit and your planning BEFORE your life may depend on it.  If you come up short on a practice run you may be able to immediately supplement your kit or, if worse comes to worse, abandon your exercise and return home and try it again another day after correcting the problems.  If you wait until you are facing a real emergency to uncover the holes in your plan, it will be too late.  And spending a weekend living off your 72-hour kit might be fun, especially if you're well equipped.  Just be sure to replenish anything you use during your exercise.  Doing a practice run will let you determine if you do indeed have what you need and give you a chance to augment it as necessary.  Using food and water will let you rotate your supply to keep it fresh. 

Evacuation plans should take into consideration whether roads will be viable and what you will do if they're not.  When I lived in southern California I counted 133 freeway bridges on my normal route between home and work.  I am sure at least some of those would collapse during an earthquake, making the roads to get home impassable.  Having alternate means of transportation may be critical during a disaster.  Some options you might want to consider may include 4WD vehicles, ATVs, dirt bikes, bicycles, horses, and even "shanks mares" (your own two feet).  Yes, you may have to walk or hike, so make sure your emergency plan includes sturdy shoes and become familiar with the neighborhoods you may have to walk through.  Some neighborhoods may be more dangerous to cross than others and may require special planning and preparation.

I recently watched a Youtube video from Outdoor Boys where he tested his 72-hour kit on a weekend camping trip.  His 72-hour kit for is family of 5 comprised two duffle bags and included a tent, sleeping bags, food, and medical supplies.  Interestingly enough, his wife's "72 hour kit"was in the form of their 16-foot travel trailer and they each tested their own kits that weekend, with her "kit" coming out ahead when his tent proved inadequate for a sudden rain storm overnight.

What do you need in a bug-out bag?  Ultimately what you put in your bag will depend on your personal needs and preferences.  A friend of mine once said a single jar of peanut butter would last him a whole year -- because he hated peanut butter and wouldn't eat it.  However, here are some basic guidelines for you to use in building your bug out bag.  Consider your immediate needs:  food, water, clothing, and medical supplies.  Select foods you will eat, that have a long shelf life, and are compact.  Water is heavy so you may want to carry water filtration or purification systems in addition to a few pouches or bottles for immediate use.  Extra clothing may be essential as what you are wearing when disaster strikes may be inappropriate or inadequate for even a few days in survival mode.  Medical supplies should include a basic first aid kit and any special prescription drugs  you or someone in your family requires.  Beyond that, things like flashlights and extra batteries, fire starting tools (matches, lighters, flint and steel), a good knife or multi-tool will all come in very handy.  Here is a link to a FEMA guide for making your own 72-hour kit:  FEMA 72-hour kit.     

 It is a good idea to create personal bug out bags for each member of your along with a "family"bag that contains community items such as tents, stoves, food, and water.  Individual bags should definitely contain personal items such as clothing and preferred personal hygiene products but may also contain things for personal comfort, like teddy bears for younger children and equivalent things to help older kids and even adults.  Any time you have to use your bug out bag it is going to be a stressful situation and it behooves you to prepare for ways to make your life more pleasant during your evacuation.  Comfort is an underrated and often overlooked but necessary part of emergency preparedness, especially if you have children to care for.

Once you have created a bug out bag for each member of your household, be sure to inspect it and review its contents at least once a year to be sure it is up to date.  You may have old batteries or out-dated prescriptions or maybe your bug out clothes no longer fit.

Periodically inventory what you have in your bug-out-bags.  Discard and replace out dated or damaged items and make sure your medications are still applicable.  Once in a while it might be a good idea to check the sizes of any extra clothing in your survival kits.  As human beings our weight does tend to change over time and those pants a 29"waist that fit you when you were 20 aren't going to do you much good when you're 40 or 50 and have grown a few sizes!

Bug out!

It's Almost March -- Still Bored With Winter?

Its late February.  Although much of North America is still experiencing snowy winter weather, some parts of the continent are showing signs of spring:  snow melting, trees starting to bud, some brave grass trying to turn green, a few robins showing up in the yard.

But even as the weather starts to warm, most climates in North America, February and March still isn't camping weather.  You won't want to dewinterize your RVs until all danger of freezing temperatures is past.  So what do you do if you've got the camping bug?  One option is to explore the possibilities of winter camping, but not everyone is up for being out in the cold and not RVs can be made winter friendly.  A friend of mine recently said the difference between camping in winter and camping in summer is that in winter you will be cold and wet -- and that if you prepare for that, winter camping is OK.  No one likes to be cold and wet so why would you CHOOSE an activity where you will be cold and wet?  It is not my intent to offend skiers and snowboarders, who routinely brave severe winter weather and are able to handle it well, but most campers will usually avoid nasty weather if they can.  However, if you have a proper shelter and dress appropriately, winter camping can be enjoyable.  So what constitutes proper shelter?  An RV with a furnace will obviously be warmer than a tent but even snow camping in a tent can be made fairly comfortable.  I've been snow camping in a tent on an 8' snow base in temperatures down into the low 20s F and have slept warm.  We started out with a heavy ground cloth underneath the tent, then put a second one inside.  I unzipped a couple of extra sleeping bags and laid one down on top of our sleeping pads, then used the second one like a quilt over the top of both our personal sleeping bags.  We stayed toasty warm all night.  Dressing appropriately in layers will keep you comfortable for daytime activities. Guard against over exertion and working up a sweat, because then you will get really cold.  My boys and I were once caught in a winter storm during a dirt bike ride.  It started off with drizzle that turned to rain, then sleet, then snow.  No doubt a raging campfire would have been a welcome sight when we got back to camp but being able to dash into a comfortable warm RV and trade our wet and frozen clothes for warm dry ones was heavenly!  A tent might have done the job, if it survived the storm.  I had a 10x14 tent I had set up as a garage for the dirt bikes but when we got back to camp it had blown flat in the storm and was holding several inches of cold rain water.  I was sure glad I didn't have to rescue the tent before we had shelter.

What to do if you just aren't in to winter camping or don't have the right equipment and clothing for it?  Not everyone is ready to brave severe weather when we can cozy up in front of the fire at home.  There are still lots of camping related things you can do.  For one thing, it is an excellent time to inspect your gear and clothing and make any necessary repairs.  If you have an RV, you can take your time going through cabinets, cupboards, closets, and drawers, sorting out the non-essentials and organizing the good stuff for your next season. If its cold you can warm things up with the furnace or bring in an electric heater to take the chill off.  Make a list of items that need to be repaired, replaced, or updated.  Pay special attention to items that might have an expiration date or may have deteriorated in storage. Spray lubricants and spray cleaners seem to be especially susceptible to failure when left alone for too long.   Test spray them to make sure they still work.  You may have to toss them out even if they still feel full if they won't spray anymore.  Sometimes the problem is in the spray nozzle and can be cleaned but often it is deeper with in the can where there is nothing you can do about it.  Research new destinations.  Talk to friends and other campers about their favorite spots and activities and look them up on the Internet for even more details.  Gather photos from last year's camping trips and organize them into a scrapbook that records your adventures to share with family and friends.  Be sure to jot down what you remember about each photo -- who is in it, where it was taken, when it was taken, and any interesting or amusing anecdotes.  Today's digital photography and electronic albums make organizing and preserving photos a snap.  Think back over last year's outings.  Which ones went well?  Which ones not so well?  What made the difference?  What do you need to do to make next year's outings even more successful?  Go over your checklists and update them as necessary.  You may find things you no longer need to do because your situation has changed (different vehicles or equipment, changes in family size, changes in planned activities and destinations).  You may also remember things you need to add to your checklist to ensure better experiences on each trip. While you're at it, go through each checklist and make sure everything is ready for the upcoming season.  By discovering items that need attention now you will have plenty of time to take care of them before your next trip.  And you will probably find that working on your camping stuff is kind of fun and helps satisfy those camping urges you are feeling.  I find it quite fun going through and organizing my stuff, knowing how easy it will be to find and use things when I need them next season.  Sometimes I come across things that have been buried in the bottom of a drawer or the back of a cabinet long enough that I've kind of forgotten they were even there.  Of course, these are prime candidates to be left out to lighten the load, but sometimes refreshing our memory of what we have will encourage us to take advantage of our resources more fully next year and add fun to many an outing.  It was surprising how much pleasure we got out of rediscovering and then using even some simple kitchen gadgets that had been squirreled away for too long.  More than once we've come across something and thought "Gee, I wish I had remembered I had that last summer!"  We originally acquired most of those arcane items for a good reason but they're of little value if you don't remember you have them or can't find them when you need them.  It is pretty easy to forget new things since you're not in the habit of using them.

If you have an RV that has been winterized, you might start working on preparing it for the new season.  You probably won't want to de-winterize the water systems just yet, but you can start on some of the other tasks.  Wait until all danger of freezing has past before restoring the water systems.   You can begin inspection of lights, tires, caulking, and appliances about any time.  You'll probably want to wait until the weather warms up a bit to give a good wash and polish.  Waxing and polishing a motorhome or trailer is a big job, but well worth the effort.  Your rig will look better and you will protect the surfaces to preserve paint and decals.  A good wax will make it easier to remove bugs and will minimize black streaks from runoff from roofs and awnings etc.  Now is also a good time to install new equipment or make any needed or wanted renovations and repairs.

In many places February is still too cold to work on or in your RV, but by March things are usually getting mild enough to start thinking of getting things ready. You can usually fire up the furnace or plug in an electric heater to warm it up enough inside for interior projects, but you'll want to wait for a warm, sunny day to wash and wax, even though you have to keep it in the shade to avoid streaking.  If you wait much longer than March, you're likely to keep postponing preparations until it is time for your first trip and then you'll rush through so you can hit the road.  Rushing usually results in things being skipped or missed or you end up with a lot of repairs to do or provisions to buy all at once.  Get started early so you can take your time and do it right!  Waiting until the last minute also results in lots to do and often means having to shell out a bunch of hard earned cash all at once for a bunch of repairs and/or provisions.  Getting an early start lets you spread out the load, both labor and out of pocket costs and gets the work out of the way before its time to go camping.

Arm chair camping.  You may be able to relive some of your favorite camping experiences from the comfort of you favorite chair.    Pull that chair up to a sizzling fire in the fireplace and pretend you're at your favorite campground.  Toast some S'mores over a fire in the fireplace or a BBQ on the patio or back porch for additional ambiance and flavor.  Have a favorite camping dinner?  Why not whip it up at home and "camp out" in the living room or family room and enjoy?

If the weather still prevents you from going tent camping you might set up your dome tent in your garage.  You will get a chance to renew your knowledge of how to set it up and a chance to check for any damage that needs to be repaired.  Sleeping on the concrete floor might not be the most comfortable place you've ever slept, but at least it will be flat and level.   And being in the garage you'll be free from wind and precipitation.

Make plans for the upcoming season.  Review the places you've been and would like to revisit.  Consider and research some new destinations.  If you don't already have a list of potential locations, talk to fellow campers and/or do some research on the Internet to find some tantalizing new sites.  Don't know where to start?  Try your local county, state, and federal parks.  Do you have an interest in a particular activity or bit of history or geology?  I'll bet you'll find more places listed on the Internet than you can possible visit.  You might find it interesting to research some of the places you've already been to find out more about the human and natural history of the area.  You can often learn the hidden history of landmarks you are used to seeing or learn of new micro-side trips to explore during your next visit.  I learned that the old rail road water tower that was a traditional landmark for many of our OHV rides marked the site of long gone little community that once serviced the famous 20 Mule Teams hauling borax out of death valley and that not far away, near some of our regular riding trails was a monument marking the site of an X-15 crash early in the US space program.  Nothing of the air/space craft remains, but an enterprising Eagle scout erected a small monument on the site.  Another popular destination, the unusual and spectacular spires of the Trona Pinnacles have been used in many movies and were even part of the training program for the lunar landings.  One popular riding area we go to in Utah straddles the old Pony Express route and isn't far from Camp Floyd, a 19th century Army post that once housed about 1/3 of the U.S. Army prior to the Civil War.  The camp was commanded by General Albert Sidney Johnson, who went on to be a prominent Confederate General when the Civil War began.  Researching things like that add value to your next outing.

Make the most of March!

Practicing for Emergencies

Practice makes perfect.  You usually hear this from your music teacher or your athletic coach.  But it applies to camping and survival skills too.  In a survival situation you don't want to try to remember what you learned in class or on the Internet or from a book.  You just want to know what do do and how to do it.  To be sure you know, you have to practice.  Skills like building a shelter, starting a fire without matches, and flint knapping all require some practice if you're going to be proficient in an emergency situation.

Each camping trip is a chance to practice at least some of your survival and emergency preparedness skills.   Just setting up camp as often as you can will help you develop procedures and techniques that will expedite moving into your tent or RV if you have to in a disaster situation.

Every campfire is an opportunity to practice survival skills of building a fire without matches.  Hone your techniques for building a proper fire beginning with tinder, then kindling, the larger pieces of wood.  Practice creating cooking fires and cooking a variety foods over the campfire -- and hotdogs and marshmallows don't really count.  Learn how to bake bread on a campfire (ash cakes or bread twists).  Bake your potatoes in foil in the coals.  Practice heating water over your campfire and cooking on a grill or in a fry pan.  Learn how to do Dutch oven cooking.

Take advantage of every camping trip to inspect your equipment. It is far better to find and fix minor problems during a weekend outing than discover them when your comfort, or maybe even your life, may depend on your camping gear.  Lanterns, stoves, and sleeping bags will likely see major use during a disaster, even if you don't have to move out of your house.  Have a plan to test seldom used equipment.  Not only will it help you keep everything in working order, it can be fun!  An old adage says, "It it hasn't been tested, it doesn't work."

Your knives and axes can almost always benefit from being sharpened before use.   Each outing is a chance to practice your sharpening skills and will make using your knife or axe easier.  You might want to sharpen your axe on your electric grinder before leaving home but you can almost always hone your knife on a sharpening stone just about anywhere, perhaps while enjoying a nice campfire.

Tents may be useful even if  your residence isn't damaged to the point you have to move out.  In winter weather you might set up a dome tent inside your house so you have a smaller area to keep warm on cold nights.  Having the tent out of the wind and precipitation it will be warmer than it would be outside and keeping a tent warm with body heat or auxiliary indoor propane heaters like Buddy Heaters will be a lot easier and more efficient than trying to heat hundreds of cubic feet of living space.

Camp cooking is a good way to develop and hone skills you could use at home during an emergency.  If the power goes out your electric range will be useless.  Gas supplies may be interrupted during a local disaster.  You may have to resort to cooking on your portable BBQ, using your camp stove, or even building a cooking fire in your back yard.  One wintery night we had a power outage that lasted a couple of hours right around dinner time.  We just moved our cooking out to the BBQ grill in the back yard and though we were standing in the snow, it got the job done without having to miss dinner.

Sanitation is a major problem in most disaster situations.  If you're lucky enough to have an RV or even a porta-potty, you have a big advantage over people who may have nothing when utilities fail.  If you have experience with primitive tent camping and know how to build your own safe latrine, you won't be dependent on any kind of modern technology.  One of the biggest health problems in refugee camps is cholera, caused by poor sanitation.  During a disaster situation, a lot of people may not give a crap about sanitation, but they sure produce a lot of it and it can be deadly!  You may be able continue to use your residential toilet even if your water supply is disrupted -- if the sewer system is still in tact.  Just manually fill the toilet tank with buckets of water.  Even dirty water from a creek or pond will do.  Don't waste potable water for flushing your toilet!  You can make an emergency toilet from a 5-gallon bucket and a contractor trash bag.  For an even more pleasant and sanitary experience, buy some "wag bags".  These are heavy plastic bags will with a compound inside that forms gel around waste products, helping to avoid spills and control odors.

Hopefully you won't have many opportunities to practice emergency medical procedures so you may have to participate in regular drills -- or create your own -- so you can be ready in case of an emergency.  Joining your local C.E.R.T. program and attending refresher courses every  year to so is one good way to accomplish this.  Renewing your first aid and CPR certification as required should go without saying.  Check the expiration on your card and try to get re-certified BEFORE it runs out!

Stay in practice!

Sharpening Your Tools

Several tools commonly used for camping have sharp edges that require periodic maintenance and special protection.  These include your kitchen cutlery as well as axes, hatchets, and other knives.  Even shovels could use a good sharpening once in a while.

Kitchen cutlery and other knives may be sharpened with a knife sharpener or a sharpening stone.   Some manual knife sharpeners only require you to drag the knife through a slot to put a new edge on the blade.  Electric knife sharpeners will probably be easier to use and more effective but they might take up too much room in an RV or camp kit and, of course, require electricity.  So-called automatic knife sharpeners are better than nothing but will not produce the same quality edge you can achieve with a good sharpening stone and a little skill.  A sharpening stone is small so you could take it anywhere, but you need some training and practice to be able to use it well.

Is it really worth the effort to sharpen you tools?  Let me share a story.  A father and his son volunteered to help weed a church garden.  Shortly after they started an older an showed up working on the rows next to them.  They were amused at how slowly and deliberately he worked and thought he was just wasting time when he stopped every few minutes, pulled a file out of his back pocket, and gave his hoe a few strokes.  The father and his son kept actively hacking away at the weeds the whole time.  At the end of the day they were surprised to see that the old man had hoed twice as many rows by himself as the two of them had done together!  His steady, deliberate effort with a sharp tool really paid off more than all their hard work.

Cutting edges should be protected for two reasons:  1) to keep the edge from being dulled by contact with other tools and 2) to avoid injuries to people, pets, or other items in storage.  Axes,  hatchets, and saws should be fitted with blade guards.  Kitchen cutlery should be stored in a cutlery block or on a magnetic knife holder.   I recently saw an innovative solution.  The RV owner had made thin blocks that attached to the side of the pantry in his RV.  The knives were stored in individual slots and when the door was closed they were prevented from falling out during travel.  Each block was less than an inch thick so they stole very little room from the pantry shelves and the knives were secure in transit and always handy to use.  Be sure to store them with the sharp edge up so it doesn't rub on the block and get dull.   If you leave them just bumping into other utensils in the drawer they will get dull AND you're likely to cut yourself rummaging through the drawer when you are looking for something.  Hunting knives and other fixed blade cutting tools should be kept in their scabbards when not being used.  Folding knives should be kept closed.  Blades on most all tools should be coated with a light oil or grease when put in storage for any significant length of time to prevent rust.

Some other tools, such as shovels, hoes, and saws, also need to be kept sharp.  While some people fear that sharp tools are dangerous, dull ones are actually more dangerous.  Dull tools require more effort, increasing the risk of losing control and are more apt to bounce or slide, also causing a loss of control and increasing the risk of injury.  Sharp tools are also more efficient to use, saving you time and energy.  Saws require some special tools to set the kerf (offset) of the teeth but most tools can be easily sharpened by hand using common tools like a file and a sharpening stone.  Chain saws require a rat tail file of a size specific to the teeth on the chain.  Chain saws should be sharpened using factory specified angles to ensure proper performance.  Axes and hatchets can be partially sharpened using a grinder but may require a more sensitive touch for final finishing.  Knives should not be sharpened on a grinding wheel because the wheel is likely to create too much heat and damage the thin blade.

Most camping activities are relatively sporadic and short term, even though most of us would like to be able to spend more time.  Unless you are planning an extended camping trip, you can probably just make sure all your tools are sharp before you leave home.  But if you expect to use your tools a lot -- or want to be prepared to maintain them during an unexpected extended emergency -- make sure you bring along proper tools with which to sharpen them.

Shovels, hoes, and similar tools should be sharpened using a file.  Avoid using a grinder because it will generate heat that diminishes the temper and weakens he blade.   Bent spots on shovels can be pounded flat using a hammer on an anvil before sharpening with a file.  Knives should be sharpened using sharpening stones.  You will probably need more than one stone with different levels of coarseness. Use a coarse stone for initial shaping and removing chips and progressively finer stones for finishing.  You can make your own set of sharpening stones from various grades of wet-and-dry sandpaper.  Glue strips of sandpaper about 4"x8" onto a piece of glass or other hard surface (a plastic cutting board would be ideal).  It may take some practice to get a feel for the right angle to hold the blade to get a good edge, so be patient and do a lot of practicing.  Start with the coarsest grit and work your way to finer grits to get a razor sharp edge.   When sharpening a shovel or hoe, start the file away from the edge and file toward the edge.  

When sharpening a knife on a whetstone, wet the stone, then start with the blade at one end and drag it gently back to the other end.   Use only a light pressure, not a harsh, grinding force.  Slide the blade sideways as you pull it back so you work the entire length of the blade.  Some folks prefer to push the blade toward the stone rather than dragging it back.  You might want to try it both ways to see which way works best for you.  For best results soak your whetstone for 5 to 10 minutes before using it and keep the surface wet.

Axes and hatchets, being made of heavier blocks of steel or iron, can be sharpened with a grinding wheel.  But you'll still want to exercise some caution to avoid over-heating and damaging the blade.  If the blade starts getting red hot in spots, it is overheating. Stop grinding and cool the blade before continuing.  If  you overheat the blade it may burn a nick in the edge.  If you see a dark bluish stain on the metal you have created a hot spot and probably ruined the blade or at least removed the temper  and weakened the blade in that spot.

Other hand tools that benefit from periodic sharpening include chisels and screwdrivers.  Most of us probably don't carry chisels with us when camping, but both wood and stone chisels work best when sharp.  Wood chisels require more refined sharpening than stone chisels and need a polished edge like a knife to be most effective.  Stone chisels can usually be sharpened on a grinding wheel, taking normal precautions against overheating. Flat screwdrivers, while not normally considered cutting tools, can become rounded and worn and may benefit from light sharpening to restore the flat surface and square edges.  You should able to that with a file or with gentle use of a grinder.  About the only use I've found for worn out or damaged Phillips screwdrivers is to grind them into a point to be used as a punch or an awl.

Scissors require special sharpening techniques but some sharpeners designed for kitchen use have a scissors sharpening slot that makes it pretty easy.  If you have trouble sharpening your scissors, take them to a professional or replace them.  While scissors are often general purpose tools, there are variations designed for different tasks.  Kitchen shears are meant for cutting produce and may not be fine enough to cut paper cleanly.  Special snub-nosed scissors are used for cutting bandages so you don't poke your patient with the sharp point found on most scissors.  I've seen scissors advertised as being strong enough to cut a penny and found they lived up to their claims.

Be sharp!

Doing Laundry In Camp or On Your Boat

Do Laundry in camp?  Yeah, right!  Most of us prefer to just bag it and take it home.  And that's all right for weekend outings.  But for longer trips you will have to make other arrangements.  Some high end RVs have washers and dryers, but using them while boondocking depletes your fresh water fast and fills your holding tanks quickly.  I had a large Class A with a washer and dryer for several years but never really had a chance to use it.  The one time I tried to use the dryer to dry some wet riding gear I found it had been sitting idle for so long that the rollers had gotten flat spots on them and it sounded like it was full of big tennis shoes even when it was empty!  Dis-use can be really bad on lots of pieces of equipment.  Some RV parks have coin op washers and dryers or you may be able to find a nearby laundromat when traveling.

When you do have to do laundry in camp, your camping style and location will determine your options.  Recent surveys indicate a majority of RVers, perhaps as much as 3/4 or more, prefer camping in a full service RV park.  Some high end campgrounds have an on site coin op laundry.  In which case doing laundry means just packing it and hauling to the laundromat.  But in more primitive situations you will have to make do with the resources you bring with you.  Regardless of what facilities may or may not be available and whether you'll try to do laundry in camp or take it home with you, you'll need to have a procedure for collecting and storing dirty clothes and linens.  We like to use individual net laundry bags for each person.  If you're camping near a town you may be able to go to a laundromat if you run out of clean clothes or linens before your trip is over.  Otherwise, you are going to have to figure out a way to wash your clothes in camp.

Most RVs don't come with clothes hampers and tents never do so you'll need to bring along some laundry bags to collect and corral your dirty clothes.  I picked up some inexpensive mesh laundry bags in several colors at my local dollar store so everyone in our family has their own personal bag for dirty clothes.   More recently I found some small collapsible hampers that only take up about as much room as a saucer when they're empty.  Another option is to stuff your dirty clothes in a plastic garbage bag.  Using the mesh bags allows moisture to evaporate and discourages proliferation of odor-causing bacteria, but, depending on how dirty the clothes are and what kinds of soil are on them, they may allow odors to contaminate the space in which they sit.  Hanging bags of dirty clothes alongside the clean clothes in your closet isn't a good idea.  Plastic bags will contain the odors but may promote development of additional odors, mold, and mildew inside the bag if kept tightly closed for too long, sometimes creating odors or stains that are difficult or impossible to remove.  One idea is to hang mesh bags in sunlight and fresh air to dry a few days to let nature control odors before you tuck them away in your RV or tow vehicle.  The UV in sunlight and the ozone in the air are pretty effective antibacterial and deodorizing agents.  Then find someplace to put them where they won't foul clean clothes or stink up your living space.  However, sunlight may cause fading or other damage to some fabrics.

There are portable, table-top, human-powered clothes washers that can be used in RVs, boats, or even when tent camping.  They are relatively light weight and inexpensive, but they also have a limited capacity, take a lot of muscle power, and are not the best options for heavy duty tasks like washing dirty jeans.   But they might be worth checking out, especially if you find  yourself frequently running out of things like T-shirts or dish towels.  In a pinch you can use a 5 gallon bucket and an ordinary sink plunger.  It isn't an elegant solution,  but it beats banging your clothes on a rock and it works!  That being said, if you are camping by water you might be able to at lease rinse out your clothes there  Be thoughtful of other users and avoid contaminating the water with soap or detergent..

You can always resort to washing out your clothes a sink, tub, or dishpan.  It is tedious and time-consuming but will work in a pinch.  Then hang them out on a clothesline, trees, or bushes to dry.  There are several clothesline options for RVs, ranging from a simple coil of rope or cable to elaborate racks that attach to the trailer hitch.  If you're only rinsing out a couple of items you can probably hang them in the shower on rainy days, but hanging them outside will usually dry them faster and gives them a fresher scent from being in the sun and fresh air.  Of course, if you're camped next to a cattle feeding lot or other source of foul odors (like if you're stuck next to a latrine!) you might not want to hang them outside.

Avoid hanging lots of wet laundry inside your RV.   It will greatly increase the interior humidity and may contribute to mold and mildew in hidden places.  It a worst case scenario, it might even put enough moisture on the walls to loosen wall coverings.  High humidity might attract and convert dust to mud in curtains, carpet, upholstery, and bedding.  High humidity usually translates to uncomfortable.  If you must hand wet laundry inside, hang it in the shower or over the tub, open the vent, and keep the bathroom door or curtain closed to minimize high humidity in the rest of the living space,

You will probably want to use the same detergent you usually use at home.  Switching detergents often leads to skin irritations and you sure don't need that when camping.  My personal preference for camping is a liquid detergent because it takes up less room than a big box of powder and its easy to measure using its own cap.  Just make sure to keep the lid on tight! Camping is not a good time to experiment with a different detergent, so be sure to try it out a home a few times if you normally use a powered detergent.  Having some spot treatment can help you deal with unusually difficult stains you might get while camping.  A good mechanics hand cleaner like Goop or Go-Jo does double duty -- cleaning greasy hands and pre-treating nasty stains.  WD-40 will also work to pre-treat heavy grease stains that often result from working on vehicles.

Tent campers might be able to wash out their clothes in the dish washing sink sometimes available near the shower house.   Lacking that you will need to wash them out in a basin or bucket at your campsite.  Washing clothes in warm water is usually better than washing them in cold water, but even a cold water wash might be enough to get you through until you can get home.

Doing laundry in a survival situation is probably going to be fairly low on your priority list, but it isn't something you should ignore entirely.  Keeping your clothing as clean as possible can help you avoid disease, make you  more comfortable, and more pleasant to be around if you have any companions with you.  It will also help you feel better too.  In a survival situation you aren't likely to have detergent and water will probably be scarce.  If you do have access to clean water, rinse your clothing out and hang it out to dry when it gets dirty.   Or just jump in the water with your clothes on and wash both you and your clothes at the same time.  You can also use the old-fashioned method of pounding your clothing on a rock to loosen stubborn dirt, but take care that you don't damage your clothing or wear holes in them.  Worn out clothes will be more of a problem than dirty clothes.  Take advantage of "wash day" to give yourself a good cleaning too.  Lacking enough water to wash your clothes, at least hang them out in the sunshine to dry and air out occasionally and give yourself an "air shower" or smoke shower at the same time.  Sunlight and fresh air will help to kill bacteria and freshen both  your body and your clothing. Sagebrush smoke is particularly good at killing bacteria on your body and in your clothes and leaves a pleasant scent of its own.

Avoid hanging wet clothing inside your tent to dry.  If you're stuck in rainy weather and have no other options, make sure the wet clothes don't drip onto your sleeping bag, pillow, back pack, or dry clothes and blankets.  Place a tarp or large plastic trash bag beneath them to catch drips. Keep the windows open if you can to allow as much air circulation as possible.  Trapping a lot of damp air inside  your tent may encourage the grow of mold and mildew, which can be unhealthy as well as unpleasant as well as slowing the drying of your clothes.  The moisture from you breath is already enough that on cool days drops will condense on the inside of your tent.  The last thing you need is to add to the humidity by hanging a batch of wet laundry inside.  It might be a good way to create your own private rain shower inside your tent!

Doing laundry on your boat is much like doing laundry in an RV.  However, you may be able to rinse out lightly soiled clothes in the water your boat is sitting in and hang them on the lifeline to dry.   Probably don't want to do that in salt water and might be prohibited or at least unwise if your fresh water is also a source of drinking water.   If you use detergent make sure to either contain the contaminated water in your holding tank for proper disposal or use safe, biodegradable soap.  Avoid hanging wet laundry inside the cabin as it will increase humidity and possibly cause increased moisture problems.  Best to hang laundry outside to dry if you can.  Hanging it in the cabin will increase humidity and condensation inside.  Sunlight is also a natural antibiotic that kills germs and reduces odors.

Clean up!