Bungie Cords

Bungie cords are very handy and have many uses when camping and boating.  You'll find dozens of uses for them in your RV, toy hauler, boat, and around camp.  You can wrap them around sleeping bags, tents, tarps, and awnings to keep them under control when they're rolled up.  You use them to secure items inside your RV or trailer so they don't bounce around on the road.  You can even use them as belts or suspenders.  You can use them for sail ties on sailboats and to secure loose gear from bouncing around on any boat.

                                                           

Finding a good place to anchor bungee cords in a motorhome or trailer is often difficult.  Sometimes you can use existing brackets for curtains or shades, but as often as not, those brackets aren't designed for the loads you'll be putting on them and you may break or bend them, or pull them out of the wall.  Ordinary cup hooks can be used where you have solid place to screw them in but I prefer to use marine eye straps or rope guides.  They fasten on with two screws and have no open ends sticking out to catch things on.  They're more expensive than cup hooks, but they are also sturdier, more secure, and easier to use.  You can get cup hooks at any hardware store.  You may have to go to a marine supply store for eye straps/rope guides or order them online.  I've used both plastic and stainless steel versions and both provided satisfactory service in my RVs.

                                                        

Have a cabinet that keeps coming open on the road?  You may be able to secure it with a bungie cord.  Sure, it takes a little extra time every time you need into the cabinet, but compared to the time it takes to gather up all the stuff that might fall out on the road and clean up the spills, its nothing.  Just wrap a bungee around 2 or more cabinet door handles to keep them closed.

Bungie cords come in many sizes.  Most bungie cords are about 3/8" in diameter and typical lengths are 6", 12", 18", 24" and 36".  Mini bungies are usually bout 1/8" in diameter and about 4"-6" long.   If you need a different length you can usually cut a bungee down to the size you need, reinstall the hook, then tie a new knot in the end.  Some bigger bungies, like those used for securing loads on pick up trucks, are about 1/2' in diameter and several feet long.  They all have hooks on both ends and may come with either plastic or wire hooks.  I have tried both plastic hooks and wire hooks and I like the wire hooks better.  I find the plastic ones are often too large and clumsy to be easy to use. I prefer the wire hooks.  They fit in more places and I've found them to be more durable than the plastic ones.   Wire hooks will sometimes bend under stress, but plastic hooks may break.

Bungie cords usually last a fairly  long time but if you stretch them very tight and leave them that way for a while, they will stretch out and lose their usefulness.  They can be used outdoors, but extended exposure to sun and weather will also significantly shorten their life.

Bungie cords are really helpful for anchoring tarps and awnings.  I use them to secure the lower edge of awning extensions on my RV awning.  The top of the extension slides into the accessory rail on the awning or attaches to the awning roller with special hangers and "S" hooks.  Using long bungies from the bottom edge to tent pegs driven into the ground keeps the extension taught and where I want it instead of flapping in the breeze.  If you're making your own awning from tarps, bungies are the fastest and easiest way to anchor them.    Pulling a tarp taught with rope or twine works too, but bungies provide some shock absorbing capability that keeps the tarp taught without over-stressing it and pulling out the grommets.  Rubber tie down straps serve a similar function for securing a tarp over load on a vehicle.  They are usually about 1" wide and 1/4" thick with "S" shaped metal hooks on both ends.  They are usually stiffer than bungie cords, making them more difficult to use but more resistant to stretching out and getting loose.

Bungies are good for securing light loads on your OHV.   I keep one or two in my fanny pack or fender bag with my tools in case I need to tie something down out on the trail.

You can adapt bungie cords to replace a lost or broken belt or fashion suspenders to hold your pants up.  Perhaps not the most fashionable of accessories, but very functional.  You might use bungies as a sling for a broken arm or to secure bandages.  In a dire emergency, a bungee might be used as a tourniquet.  Be aware that current medical thinking only recommends the use of a tourniquet in extreme situations where there is no other way to control life-threatening bleeding.  Where you once were told to release the tourniquet every 15-20 minutes they now say to leave it.  Releasing it may allow contaminated blood from the isolated limb back into the system and cause severe problems.   Always label a tourniquet with the date and time it was applied.

In summary, bungie cords are one of the most versatile and useful accessories you can add to your camp kit.   I try to keep a good supply on hand -- in my motorcycle trailer, in my RV, and in my tent camping stuff.  You can find them at department, hardware, and camping stores.  Sometimes I find packages of them at my local dollar store and it is a really good  $1.00 investment.  Each packages usually contains 2 each of 3 different lengths.  I always like to stock up and buy several packages when I find them there.  There is always someplace to use a bungie cord.  I have a dedicated rack in my enclosed motorcycle trailer where I hang a bunch of bungee cords and keep an ammo can filled with bungies in my motorhome.

Bungie cords can be used for sail ties on a sail boat, but I strongly suggest using true sail tires made of nylon straps.  The hooks on bungie cords can make holes in the sail and become rather nasty instruments of pain if they strike your body when they go flying around as they often do when released.  One of the advantages for using bungie cords to secure loose items is that they will stretch and can absorb some movement without letting objects go.

Tie one on!

ICE your Cell Phone

Hold on, don't head for the freezer just yet!  ICE stands for In Case of Emergency.  Some of the newer smart phones already have an ICE function where you record your emergency contacts, but you don't have to have a pricey phone to make it easier for emergency services responders to reach your emergency contact.  Just add "ICE-" in front of the name of your emergency contact. It costs you nothing but a minute or so of your time could be a lifesaver in an emergency. 

Having an ICE-number in a cell phone is especially important for elderly people and adolescents.    It could also be very important for RVers and other campers who might find themselves in an emergency situation far from home.  Elderly people may be prone to memory problems, especially during the trauma of an emergency situation, and under-age children may need your permission to get treatment.  Emergency services personnel don't need your permission to treat minors with life-threatening emergencies but your child may have to suffer a long time waiting for other treatment, even for painful injuries, if they can't reach you right away. 

The idea for standardizing "In Case of Emergency" contacts in cell phones started with a paramedic in Australia.  Instead of having to search through a cell phone address book hoping to find a listing for "Mom" or "Dad" or "Home" or try to guess which names might be a good emergency contact, having an "ICE-name" in your phone can save a lot of time.  Time might be critical if the victim has some medical condition or allergy that might affect treatment and could greatly speed up treatment for underage patients. 

Be sure to tell your emergency contact that you have designated them as such and provide them with any special medical needs (prior surgeries, medications, allergies, current diseases like cancer, diabetes, hemophilia, or high blood pressure). 

Putting ICE on your cell phone is free and easy and could save your life!  ICEing your cell phone is really a very hot thing to do!

ICE it!

Preparing Meals In Camp

Meal preparation in camp should always be at least easy and convenient.  Ideally it should be downright fun!  You definitely don't want meal preparation to be time consuming or onerous and interfere with your planned activities.  If we do it right, meal preparation can and should be fun.

Preparing meals in camp, whether you're camping in a tent or on a boat or in an RV, will be a little different than your normal routine at home.  When cooking in an RV you usually have a range that is similar to the one at home -- but somewhat smaller.  Cooking on a boat you may have to deal with having your galley rocking.  When tent camping, you'll likely be cooking on a Coleman stove or campfire, unless you opt for one of the newer portable ranges that gives you  stove resources similar to those you would have in in RV.  But even then, or when cooking in an RV, the differences in size and performance will require some adjustments to your normal procedure.  No matter what you're cooking on, it is going to be different than your gas or electric range and oven at home.

Camp cooking should be fun!  After all, we go camping for fun, so cooking should be fun too and usually it is.  One of the things that will make it more fun, especially for the primary cook, is for everyone to participate.  Plan your meals with that in mind so you have appropriate and productive things for everyone to do.  Plan simple meals that don't require a lot of elaborate preparation or cleanup.  Take advantage of outdoor cooking opportunities (BBQ or campfire) to add variety and distribute the labor.  Cooking on a campfire can be fun and quite an adventure and is a good way to involve many family or group members.

Your first step toward successful camp cooking starts even before you leave home.  That is to plan an appropriate menu.  Think "simplicity.  Plan simple meals that will require minimum preparation:  hotdogs, hamburgers, sandwiches, foil dinners, stew, chili, cold cereal, etc.  One of our traditions is to have donuts for breakfast the first day in camp.  Yes, I know, it isn't the most nutritious meal, but we aren't exactly making a habit out of as rarely as we get to go camping and it lets us get going quick!

Setting up your camp kitchen or RV or boat galley properly will have a big effect on the efficiency -- and fun -- of camp cooking.  RV cabinets and counter tops are much smaller than their residential counterparts so you may not be able to have everything at your fingertips like you are used to having at home.  You may have to get things out in advance and have them staged "at the ready" so you don't waste time and energy digging in the backs of cupboards for what you need.  Have your utensils and all ingredients needed for the current meal gathered up and ready to use.   Boat galleys are often even more limited than RVs plus you probably have to deal with the boat rocking while youre cooking.  When tent camping, all your stuff is going to be in a back pack, duffle bag, tub, or chuck box so the same practice applies, perhaps even more so.  Set up your camp kitchen so all ingredients and necessary cooking implements are organized for easy access.   Have a dishpan ready for rinsing or soaking dishes, spoons, etc.  Make sure your campfire is properly formatted for cooking or that your camp stove is fueled and ready to go.  You may need to set up a wind screen around your stove or even around your campfire on windy days.

When preparing meals in an RV or on a boat you will want to be as efficient as possible.  That means more than just minimized use of the stove to conserve fuel.  You need to reduce use of water consumption, generation of trash, and restrict how often and how long you open the refrigerator.   Also, conserve your time.  You need so think carefully about how long it takes to prepare each dish and schedule cooking times to try to get everything ready at the same time.  Avoid messy dishes that make for a lot of cleanup.  All of that comes down to planning.  First, plan your meals in advance, way in advance.  By planning your menu long before you hit the road you can make sure you have all the right provisions and you have a chance to organize them so they'll be handy and easy to use on the road.  You may even want to pre-measure some ingredients and put them in labeled plastic bags so they're ready to use.  Sometimes  you can also pre-mix dry ingredients to reduce preparation time.  You don't want to have to search through cupboards or boxes of supplies to find a bottle of cooking oil after you've already lit the stove.  If you are accustomed to cooking at home, you probably have routines that work for you there but you may have to make adjustments when cooking in an RV.  A smaller stove may mean you can't cook as many things at the same time as you do at home and the smaller burners may mean it will take longer.   Think about what things can be prepared first without becoming unappealing if they sit for a while.  Baked potatoes hold their heat pretty well but mixed veggies cool pretty quickly, so keep things like that in mind when you structure your meal preparation.  Sometimes you can augment your cooking resources by shifting some of it, like steaks and burgers, baked potatoes and corn on the cob, to an outside BBQ or to the campfire.   This also lets you share the work by recruiting a companion to take charge of that part of the meal and outdoor cooking can even be fun.   And always plan ahead. If you're planning on having baked potatoes for dinner, you might want to wrap them in aluminum foil and tuck them in the coals of your campfire an hour or so before dinner time.  A potato baked in the campfire for an hour makes an tasty side dish.  A potato baked in the campfire for 3 hours makes an excellent hockey puck!  Taking advantage of the campfire also helps you conserve propane and creates some opportunities for several people to participate in some old fashioned pioneer type experiences.  You can let everyone cook their own hotdogs but you'll probably need a designated burger flipper to do hamburgers on the grill or campfire.

Mealtime when tent camping is usually quite a bit different than at home.  You may find yourself having to prepare your meals in adverse weather -- rain, wind, even snow.  Never try to cook in your tent.  That is a recipe for disaster!  If you;'re in a campground with canopies or pavilions, try to take advantage of them to protect you and your food from the weather.  If all else fails you might be able to stretch a tarp between some trees or poles or anchor it to the roof of your vehicle to give you a little shelter from the storm.  Just make sure it is high enough that it won't melt or catch on fire when you're cooking.  Depending on how much shelter you have around your camp kitchen, you may have to exercise special care to avoid getting rain in your flour or pancake mix or blowing debris adding unwanted variety to the taste and texture of your creations.  Rain falling into a frying pan filled with hot oil can be especially hazardous.  Water is heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom of the pan where it quickly becomes superheated and can virtually explode, scattering hot, possibly, flaming, oil all over the place.  As with cooking in an RV,  your cooking space is limited and planning is key to success.  You will most likely want to plan different meals than you usually prepare at home, choosing things that are appropriate to the season, are easy to prepare, serve, and clean up.  And, again, take advantage of campfire resources when you can.  As you gain experience cooking in camp you may discover you want to upgrade from a 2-burner stove to a 3-burner stove or perhaps even bring more than one stove.  Extra cooking facilities is especially helpful (and necessary) when you are cooking for larger groups.  How you organize your camp kitchen will have a significant effect on how convenient preparing meals will be.  Plan ahead and have ingredients well organized and close at hand. Some campers find it helpful to build a "chuck box" to organize their kitchens.  This is a tried and true option, one that goes back at least to American pioneer wagon trains and the chuck wagons on cattle drives.   For a modern variation, check out the little kitchens in the back of teardrop trailers. Lacking a chuck box or room to transport one, organize your provisions and utensils logically in plastic tubs.  Use dividers or smaller containers inside large tubs to protect individual items and make it easier to find what you need when you need it.   If everything is simply tossed into one large tub you'll find yourself digging through a foot or two of odds and ends to find a spoon or a spatula. Proper storage of foodstuffs is especially important.   No matter how careful you are, things are likely to get spilled in transit.  Loose ingredients like flour, sugar, and salt, get all over everything if the bag or box breaks . Escaping liquids will seep through and into unprotected packages of dry ingredients and soon you'll have to pretty much throw everything out and start over.   Proper storage can prevent a lot of problems.   Make sure caps are tight on all containers, then store bottles of liquids in their own plastic storage boxes so if they crack or the cap comes off, the contents will be contained and the rest of the bin or cupboard not contaminated.  Keeping dry ingredients in their own sealed plastic containers protects the packages from damage, prevents them from being contaminated by external spills, seals them from environmental moisture so they don't absorb moisture from humid air, and keeps the bugs out.

Campfire cooking is a fun way  to prepare your meals in camp.  But it requires proper preparation, special equipment, and careful procedures.  Get your fire started about an hour before you want to start cooking.  It is best to cook on the coals, not the flames.  You can even cook most meats directly on or over the coals without the need of a grill or pan.  Special equipment might include a grill, "pot dangler", or cast iron skillets and pots.  For a pioneer type experience, cook your meat or bread on a stick like you would hotdogs or marshmallows.  Twist bread is easy.  Start with a stiff dough, roll it into a rope shape, wrap it around a stick, and bake it over your campfire.  Keep an eye on what you're cooking.  Temperatures in a campfire are much different and more likely to change without warning than the temperatures on your stove at home or even your trusty Coleman stove in camp.  Check out these Ten Commandments for Campfire Cooking for more helpful tips.

 No matter what you are cooking or where, clean up as you go instead of setting dirty dishes and utensils aside to be washed later.  Usually cleaning things right away avoids having to deal with scrubbing dried or cooked on residue and will save you a lot of time in the long run.  And, since you probably have limited items, it may make things you need available when you need them again instead of having to stop and clean them before you can use them when you need them.

Tin foil dinners, such as hobo stew, are handy ways to have tasty, nutritious campfire meals.  They can be assembled from basic ingredients (usually meat and vegetables) and cooked right on the coals.  We like to make ours up ahead of time at home, sometimes even pre-cooking the meat in the microwave before wrapping them in foil.  They don't take up a lot of room in the fridge or cooler, they don't spill, they are really easy to cook on the campfire, and they really taste great!  And they don't dirty up a lot of pots and pans.

If you're camping in a developed campground, there may be a roofed area that will at least get you out of the rain or snow but usually these are open-sided so you may still have to deal with the wind.  Sometimes each site has its own canopy; sometimes there are larger shared pavilions.  If your camp site doesn't have one you may want to set up your own portable canopy, maybe a dining fly or an EZ-up.  I've seen campers set up tarps to protect their campsites, stretching them high enough between the trees and leaving a small opening in the middle so they can even have a protected campfire.  That will help keep rain out of the hot grease in they frying pan, but having anything overhead brings its own risks, so be careful!   Tarps will sometimes collect significant pools of water in low spots.  Eventually the weight may cause the tarp to tear or pull loose, dousing everyone and everything beneath with copious amounts of cold rain water.   Monitor water accumulation and periodically dump the pools before they dump themselves in the most unpleasant and untimely way.   Some additional tarps hung along the windward side may help shelter you from the wind.  Exercise special care when cooking under a canopy.  An unexpected flareup could catch your roof or walls on fire!

Meal schedules are likely to be modified when camping.   Hey! One of the reasons we go camping is to get out of the daily 9-5 grind!  The variety of activities and the potential for unforeseen circumstances to impact mealtimes pretty much dictate you have to be flexible.  Most times that isn't a problem, unless you make it into one.  You will find it is best not to try to maintain a fixed meal schedule tied to the clock when camping.  Don't worry about setting an alarm clock.  Have breakfast whenever you finally roll out of bed in the morning.  Although some people don't usually eat breakfast at home,  normally do try to start each day camping with a more or less nutritious breakfast (donuts the first morning are one of the more fun and less nutritious breakfasts).  Lunch works just about anytime you might think of as "mid day", but it doesn't have to be at a specific time.   Wait for a natural break in activities.  And have dinner in the evening after you've finished your day's activities and are ready to settle in for the night.  Having dinner at that time also lets you cook on the campfire, if you like, then just relax around it after dinner.  You meal schedules should be more governed by the sun, your body rhythms, and your activities than by the clock.  However, if you find benefit in keeping a regular schedule, by all means do so!  People with special diets or medical requirements may need to keep to a fixed schedule.

Clean up is far more important in camp than at home.   It is ALWAYS a good idea to clean up as you go, but if you don't keep up with it in camp there can be larger consequences than you normally experience at home.  Dump some water into pots and pans a soon as you're removed the food so they can begin soaking right away before stuff dries and bakes on.   If you're cooking on a campfire, you may want to leave the pots and pans on the fire with water in them for a while to loosen deposits, but don't let them boil dry.  Dispose properly of scraps before they can attract pests.   Even in an RV, you are likely to be surrounded by more potential pests than you have at home and when cooking outside you are smack in the middle of their environment.  Flying and crawling insects are usually among the first to arrive, but larger (and more dangerous) critters like raccoons and bears may also be drawn to unattended (and sometime attended) scraps.  While unwanted creatures are less likely to be a problem in an RV, spills and scraps left around contribute to unsanitary conditions and may produce unpleasant odors that are hard to escape or eliminate in the small space inside an RV.   Cooking fumes and odors can also be a problem in an RV, so try to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open some strategic windows and take advantages of the fan in your range hood (if you have one) to expel odors as quickly as possible.  Roof vents, especially those with fans than can be used to evacuate air from inside the coach, are also helpful in getting rid of odors before they saturate carpet, curtains, and upholstery or cling to walls and windows.   Give cloth upholstery a shot of Fabreze and vacuum them now and then to minimize the accumulation of cooking odors.   Clean interior glass and vinyl surfaces to remove the build up of film from cooking fumes.   Meal preparation in camp should at the very least always be easy and convenient.  Ideally, it should even be fun!

Presentation is often a big part of meals at home.  My wife can whip up some frozen corn dogs and make it look like a gourmet meal.  Options for elaborate presentation in camp are probably going to be much more limited than at home, but you may still want to spiff up some meals.   And remember, just eating off paper plates around the campfire or at your RVor picnic table is perfectly acceptable.  Fancy dinnerware or serving containers are definitely NOT required when camping.  Consider that billionaire William Randolf Hearst served all condiments in their original containers at his "ranch" at San Simeone (better know as Hearst Castle), even when entertaining VIPs like politicians, Hollywood celebrities, and even royalty.   If you do want to add some decoration, sometimes you can put some wild flowers in a plastic cup for a centerpiece at dinner (just be sure picking the flowers isn't against the rules where you're camping!).  A single candle, even a little votive light, can add a touch of ambiance to the table without taking up much room in your cupboards and if its a citronella candle it will help keep insects away.   Even a little LED faux candle looks nice and you can often get them at dollar stores.   And they don't present a fire hazard if used in tents.  I've seen RV advertisements in magazines and displays at trade shows with lavish flower arrangements and even live plants.  That is OK for a trade show or a commercial, but, personally, I don't think it is very practical for real  camping.  I would prefer to give the space and weight consumed by such items to things that add more convenience or functionality.  In most places we go camping, the location itself provides more than enough "eye candy".   You can always do something fun like learn fun and spiffy ways to fold paper napkins or add a little pretty garnish to your meals.  Sometimes you may even be able to find suitable garnish in the wild (one of my favorites is water cress), but be sure you know what you're picking and that picking it isn't prohibited or the food is contaminated.

Now you're cooking!

Leveling and Stabilizing an RV

Much has been said about the need for and the benefits of leveling your RV.  Gas absorption refrigerators used in most RVs need to be pretty level to work properly.   Modern refrigerator designs are less sensitive to being level than some earlier models but should still be level for optimum performance.  "Why?" you might ask.  An off-kilter fridge allows the liquid coolant to pool in unintentional low spots, blocking circulation.  You need level work surfaces like counters and tables so your dinner doesn't slide into your lap.  You need a fairly level bed so you don't roll out or slide off the end -- or wake up with a mouth full of bile because you were sleeping with your head lower than your stomach. Yccch!

Leveling and stabilizing are not always the same thing.  Hydraulic leveling systems do both at once.  If you don't have hydraulic levelers, you need to both level your RV, by digging holes for the high side wheels or using blocks under the low spots and then stabilize it with stabilizing jacks between the body and the ground.

There are several options for leveling an RV.   First, always start off by parking on a fairly level site whenever you can.  In primitive campgrounds or open camping areas this may mean jockeying your rig around a bit to find the best spot.  Developed camp sites should be graded to be fairly level.  If you have hydraulic levelers, they will compensate for some pretty uneven ground, but you may create a safety hazard if you aren't properly prepared.  If the rear wheels are lifted off the ground to level a motorhome, the parking brake becomes ineffective and the unit may roll off the jacks.  I've seen this happen more than once.  Use chocks to block the front wheels whenever there is chance weight on the rear wheels will be reduced -- and ALWAYS start with the RV as level as possible. Sometimes, if the site is level enough, you don't need any additional leveling, but you may still want to use jacks to stabilize your RV.

There are many devices to assist you in measuring how level your RV is.   One of  the simplest and least expensive is a pair of bubble levels.  They are usually about 2-3" long and come with self-adhesive tape to mount them to most hard surfaces.  Park you RV on a level place or use a carpenter's level to make sure the RV is level.  Put the carpenter's level on the floor or a counter top.  Since most tables are removable or adjustable, they are not the best indicator of whether the whole unit is level. Once the RV is level, install one bubble level on a vertical surface parallel to the front of the vehicle (usually the dashboard on a motorhome).   Install the other on a side wall, usually just below the driver's side window.  Both should be where the driver can easily see them when parking.   Another clever device that is particularly helpful when you're using leveling blocks has wedge-shaped slides on each corner of a bubble level.  You place it on a countertop then adjust the slides until the bubble is level and read how much each corner needs to be raised to level the RV.

Finding the most level initial spot for trailers is usually a little more difficult since leveling the tow vehicle doesn't necessarily mean the trailer is level.  Here again, bubble levels come in handy. You can buy very large bubble levels to install on the front of your trailer where you can see it from the tow vehicle so you can at least find a spot that is nearly level side to side.  Usually you can easily adjust the front-to-back leveling using the tongue jack after you've disconnected the trailer from the tow vehicle.

For years I've used a device called a clinometer to help with finding the most level spot.  These are sometimes used in off-highway vehicles like rock crawlers to help the driver gauge angles to avoid roll-overs etc.  They have floating indicators inside that show the tilt side to side and front to back.  The displays is similar to an artificial horizon in an airplane.  Simply maneuver around the campsite until you find the spot where both the side to side and front to back indicators are most nearly neutral.  The clinometer should be mounted where it can be easily seen by the driver but where it doesn't interfere with normal views of the road or interfere with other instruments or controls.  These are most helpful in motorhomes.  Making sure the tow vehicle is level doesn't ensure the trailer is level, but it might give you a starting point.  You might have your tow vehicle perfectly level and still have the trailer hanging at a rakish angle out back.

Once you've found the most level spot, you may still need to make adjustments to ensure your RV is adequately level.   The easiest way to do this is with automatic hydraulic leveling systems. You only need to activate them and they will automatically raise each corner of the RV until it is completely level.  With a manual hydraulic leveling system you'll have to operate levers to adjust each jack but they usually have indicator lights to tell you which one still need to be raised higher.  When all he lights are out you should be level.  If you are parking on soft ground, be sure to put "jack boots" under each jack before raising the RV.  Even fully automatic systems will lower the jacks and pause so you have an opportunity to place jack boots under the jacks before starting the jacking process.   The jack boots create a larger footprint to prevent the jacks from sinking into the ground. Even if the ground feels hard to you, it is a good idea to use the jack boots anyway.   I've seen the jacks on large motorhomes sink 6-8" into ground that feels hard as pavement to walk on or drive tents stakes into.  Vibration from movement inside the vehicle or running the generator may contribute to sinking.  Manual hydraulic levelers are functionally similar, but instead of electronic sensors that check how level an RV is and control activation of individual jacks to bring up the low corners, the operator controls each jack using switches and has to monitor the degree of levelness using bubble levels or indicator lights on the leveler control panel.   A single bubble level with a circle in the center can be placed on any solid level surface and monitored.   When the bubble is centered in the circle, the unit should be level.  This type of level is often used to check how level the refrigerator is.   If you don't have hydraulic levelers, there are usually a couple of options for leveling your RV.  In primitive areas you may be able to dig holes under the high wheels to lower that side or corner.  You'll have to estimate how deep you need the holes, dig them in front or behind the tires, then drive into the holes; repeat as needed.   Digging holes can be a problem if  the ground is wet or you get rain while parked in the hole.  On pavement or other hard surfaces you'll need leveling blocks or jacks of some kind to raise the low side or corner.  To use leveling blocks, place them in front of the tire on the low side/corner and drive onto them.   Make sure the blocks are large enough to support the entire footprint of the tire, front to back and side to side.  If you have dual wheels, use equal blocks under both tires and maintain equal weight on both tires by making sure the top of the blocks under both tires are at the same height.  You can buy plastic leveling blocks that look something like Legos.   They can be stacked to create various heights and to lock them to each other. Home made leveling blocks can be constructed from dimensional lumber (2x6 or 2x8).  Pressure treated lumber will be more resistant to moisture and rot.  One end can be beveled to make driving onto them easier and reduce the chance of the tire pushing them out of the way.   Several blocks can be stacked flat to create 1 1/2" incremental height adjustments.   Another option is to cut the blocks into wedges and fasten several together to make them wide enough for the tires.  This gives you a continuous wedge from zero to six or eight inches, depending on what size lumber you start with.  Note:  finished dimensional lumber is actually 1/2" smaller than its designated size in each direction.  A 2x4 is actually 1 1/2" by 3 1/2".  Manual stabilizing jacks are mostly seen on travel trailers as the weight of motorhomes is usually too great for them to be effective.  Hydraulic or scissors jacks may be used to lift a low side or corner while you install and adjust blocks or stabilizing jacks.  Stabilizing jacks are typically the shape of a 4-sided pyramid  and usually have a large bolt and nut in the middle that can be adjusted to achieve the proper height.   Some height adjustment can be obtained by turning the bolt, but it is much better to use a real jack to lift and lower the vehicle and use the stabilizing jacks only for stability.  There are special scissor jacks designed for leveling and stabilizing travel trailers that are permanently mounted to the unit.  I've seen these used on small motorhomes, but the extra weight of the engine and drive train sometimes makes them difficult to operate and they might not be strong enough if extensive lift is required to level the unit.  Anytime you can establish a solid link between the body and the ground your RV will be stabilized and won't bounce like it does resting only on the suspension.

RVs equipped with air bag suspension can sometimes be leveled by adjusting the pressure in individual bags.   I once had a Pace Arrow with this feature.   The classic front-wheel drive GMC motorhomes also had this feature.  While this is a lot more convenient than kneeling the mud to place leveling blocks, using the air suspension does not stabilize the unit like hydraulic levelers do.  The body can still bounce on the suspension.  The amount of lift is also somewhat limited so you need to be pretty level to start with.  Unless you are particularly sensitive to bouncing (or especially rowdy!), leveling with an air suspension option is usually quite satisfactory, but you will still get some rocking on the suspension from moving around inside and/or from cross winds.  Hydraulic stabilizing jacks brace the frame directly to the ground, taking the suspension out of the equation.

Bubble levels mounted on the dashboard and on the wall to the left of the driver are inexpensive and are easy to use to find the most level spot on a camp site.   The larger ones can be used on the front of trailers where they can be seen from the driver's seat of the tow vehicle . Clinometers provide a quick estimate of positioning while parking.  I read of an RVer who mounted an inexpensive ($1) torpedo level on the running board of his Class C motorhome.  He could open the door and check the front-to-back level status and make drive forward or back before he shut off the engine.  If you find yourself in camp without any levels, you can still check how level your RV is by putting some water in a cup, bowl, or pan and setting it in a counter or table top.   When the water is equidistant from the top of the vessel all around, the vehicle is level -- assuming the surface you put the vessel on is level. For that reason I suggest using a fixed countertop.  Tables, which are usually removable, and cup holders may be out of kilter even when the vehicle itself is level.

Home made leveling blocks are inexpensive and can be easily customized for your particular use.  They are usually made of 2x6's or 2x8's and beveled on one end so the tire will roll up onto them instead of pushing them out of the way.  The most common pattern is to cut several blocks and stack them as needed for additional height.   You might add a short extra block on the top  board to serve as a chock to prevent you from driving off the blocks.  An alternate design is to select several pieces of 2" lumber together until you have a total width slightly wider than your tire tread, then cut the blocks diagonally and fasten them together to create two wedges.   This gives you a continuous slope for adjustment instead of going up in 1 1/2" increments you get with stacking blocks.  The only downside to this type of blocks is that they are somewhat large and it is sometimes difficult to find a place to store them.  But they give you smoothly adjustable height for precision leveling.

Always chock your wheels.  You never know when someone might bump the parking brake and release it.  I've even heard of small pets hitting the parking brake and releasing it on some units.  Because uneven compression of soil can let blocks or jacks shift, vehicles sometimes have a tendency to roll if the wheels are not blocked.   Travel trailers with tandem wheels sometimes use a wheel lock that consists of two wedges that clamp between the tires.  An adjustable screw or clamp between them tightens and holds them into place.  This locks both wheels and keeps the trailer from rolling in either direction.  While it would be safest to chock at least one wheel both front and back, in most situations you only have to worry about a vehicle rolling in one direction so placing chocks on the downhill side of tires in contact with the ground is usually sufficient.   Some leveling block systems include chocks that hold the tires in place on top of the blocks.   The blocks themselves need to be significantly longer than the footprint of the tire in order to have room for chocks.

Note: leveling blocks used under the tires (and air ride levelers) will NOT stabilize the body.   To stabilize the body, use stabilizing jacks under each corner as described above.  Hydraulic leveling systems usually do stabilize the body by bracing the frame directly to the ground.   If you level your RV only using blocks under the wheels or finding a sufficiently level place to park, the body will still have a tendency to bounce on the suspension whenever there is movement inside or a breeze outside. Scissor-style leveling jacks used on many trailers also provide stability by bracing the frame to the ground.  Your RV may be perfectly level when parking in a developed camp site, but without stabilizers between the frame and the ground, it may still be subject to an annoying bounce or tilt due to wind or to movement inside.  I once found myself parked with the broad side our Class C motorhome facing a strong wind.  I spent most of the night lying the shaking and pitching cab-over sleeper trying to figure out what to do if we got blown over!  Of course stabilizing your RV may negate the value of the bumper sticker that says "If this camper is rocking, don't come knocking!"

Stabilizers in the form of Straight jacks or scissor jacks are sometimes attached to each corner of a travel trailer.   You will need a total of 4.  Sometimes you can used the tongue jack of trailer to stabilize the front and just two jacks on the rear.  Jacks can assist in minor adjustments in leveling and will connect the body to the ground to prevent it from bouncing on the suspension. Manual stabilizer jacks are not usually used on motorhomes, mostly because of the added weight and reduced clearance.   Portable stabilizing jacks can be used on any RV.  They consist of aluminum jack frames with adjustable steel bolts in the tops.  The adjustable bolts let you adjust the height of the jack until it firmly supports the RV frame.  Stabilizer jacks and jack stands are not designed to lift the weight that is often needed to level a vehicle on uneven ground.  They are only intended to stabilize the body to the ground to prevent bouncing.

                                       Straight stabilizer Jacks        Scissor Jacks

                                                                

                                                                 Stabilizer Jack Stands
                                                                      
                      

Making sure your RV is level and stable will allow you to enjoy your stay, safe from pooling coolant in your refrigerator, free from rolling out of bed, protected from objects rolling off the table, and relieved of bouncing due to wind outside or movement inside the vehicle.

Level out!

Roof Racks

Most RVs and SUVs come from the factory with roof racks for extra carrying capacity.  If yours doesn't have one, it can probably be added.   However, unless your RV already has a reinforced roof adding a roof rack might not be a good idea.  Without a reinforced roof any cargo you put on the rack may damage the roof.   SUV roof racks that mount on the drip rails of standard cars and trucks usually distribute the load sufficiently that you don't have to worry about reinforcing the roof.  But not all vehicles these days have drip rails.  Be sure to check with the dealer before adding a roof rack that bolts through the roof of an SUV.   You may need extra mounting plates or other reinforcements for it to be safe and avoid damaging the roof.  And mounting it is not trivial as it involves removing and reinstalling the headliner, a task that requires a certain amount of experience and expertise and usually some special tools only found in upholstery shops.

RV roof racks usually include ladders to make it easier for you to access them.  Be sure to examine the ladders and the racks from time to time and to tighten all the fasteners.  A loose rack or ladder can be dangerous. 

When using a roof rack on either an RV or an SUV, carefully consider the weight of items you put on it.  Overloading the rack will damage the rack and probably the roof.  Besides that, getting heavy objects up on the roof may damage YOUR body!  Even if you have help getting heavy stuff up there, you run the risk of overloading the roof and creating handling problems from altering the vehicle center of gravity.  Roof racks are best for fairly light loads.  I've heard of guys putting a spare motorhome tire on the roof rack. T his is a very bad idea.   First of all, they are heavy. Secondly, people have a tendency to drop them instead of carrying them down the ladder which can damage the tire -- or anybody or anything it bounces onto!  Third, carrying a tire on the roof exposes it to a lot of sunlight which will accelerate weather checking.   By the time you need the tire, it might be useless.  Some tire companies actually use the roofs of their factories and warehouses as extreme laboratories to test tires under UV exposure.

If the roof of your RV is already reinforced but there is no roof rack and ladder, you can add one or have one added.  If you choose to install it yourself you will need to make sure the mounting screws go through into rafters and studs or other solid support and not just the outer paneling. Likewise where you install the mounting screws for the ladder.  The installers at the factory have the advantage in knowing where all the supporting structure is located.  Without blueprints or a knowledgeable technician, you'll have to figure it out.   Unlike residential structures, you can't count on a standard 16" center for locating studs.  You might be able to locate structural members using a residential 'stud finder' or by simply tapping on the surface.   If you have to resort to tapping, don't tap too hard.   You don't want to damage the finish.  Aluminum siding is easily dented and fiberglass can crack if you whack it too hard.  If worse comes to worse you may have to drill some small holes to verify the location of solid structure before anchoring the roof rack or ladder.  If the holes don't find solid structure, fill them with silicone or Bondo.

If the roof is not reinforced, you might be able to add your own reinforcing on top of the existing roof.   For best results you should use marine grade exterior plywood and screw it securely into the existing roof infrastructure.  This is an area that might best be done by a qualified RV technician.  I would caulk the edge to prevent moisture from getting underneath it and make sure all the screws are caulked or sealed.  For good looks and weather protection you might paint the plywood or cover it with a fiberglass or aluminum panel or with rubber roof membrane.   You might use a roof sealer like Snow Roof instead of just painting it.

When using your roof rack, always anchor items securely using ropes, rubber straps, or bungee cords.  You don't want things bouncing or blowing off the roof.  Even if you think something is heavy enough that it won't blow off it should be strapped down so it doesn't slide around and damage the roof or slam into the rack and break it or bounce off if you encounter rough roads.  Elastic tie downs, such as rubber straps and bungee cords are usually easier to use than rope but properly tied off rope will keep a load more secure.  You can use a taught-line hitch or a truckers' haul knot to pull ropes tight to secure loads.  A trucker's haul or trucker's hitch acts like a crude block and tackle to let you easily apply plenty of force to snug things down.

When using roof racks you may want to use a cargo bag or a tarp to further protect your goods from weather and sunlight.   A cargo bag is usually a little more secure and weather resistant, but a tarp is often easier to use, especially when trying to cover odd shaped items.   Using a cover or a tarp also helps anchor items, diffuses air flow, and reduces the chance of something falling off.

The additional carrying options you get with roof racks can be very helpful.  I once added a roof rack over the cab of my Class B van conversion.  The van had a pop-top that took up all of the roof over the original cargo space.  I bought roof rack off a station wagon from a junk yard and cut it down to fit the cab of the van.   It didn't add a lot cargo space, but it did add some.  I could carry a couple of small suit cases or a tent and some sleeping bags on the little cab rack.  If you go this route on any vehicle, be sure to get the "skid ribs" as well as the rack itself.   They help distribute the load on the vehicle roof and reduce the chance of it being scratched or dented by cargo you put in the rack.   Be sure to seal the screws or bolts you use to attach it to the roof so it doesn't leak.  While you have the headliner out to install the roof rack might also be a good time to increase insulation to reduce heat transfer and outside noise.

Roof racks are not usually added to sedans and coupes, but there is no physical reason they couldn't be.   They used to be quite common on station wagons and I've seen them occasionally on the trunk.  Having a rack on the trunk lid brings it down to a level that is easier to load and unload but it makes getting into the trunk difficult or impossible when the rack is loaded.

Few truck campers have roof racks.  Truck campers are already top heavy and placing cargo on the roof makes them even more so.  That being said, it is sometimes done and requires the same installation considerations as any other RV.  I've even seen hay bales carried on truck camper roofs and it looked pretty precarious to me  

Roof racks are seldom seen on pop-up trailers or tent trailers.   Because the roof is movable and has to be lifted into place, it isn't very practical to load it down with extra weight.  That was why I put the roof rack on my Class B pop top over the cab.  That being said, I have seen it done.   It just means you have to have the strength of Arnold Swartznegger or take everything off the rack before you lift the roof when you get to camp.   I've seen several tent trailers with bicycles racks on top.  It may not be the most convenient of solutions, but if you have no alternative it might be worth considering.   You'll need to unload the bicycles to lift the top to use the trailer.

Roof racks are seldom seen on sedans, but there is no reason they couldn't be added especially if you plan to use a roof tent.  You may see luggage racks mounted on the deck lid, but carrying anything there makes accessing things in the trunk difficult if not impossible.

If you have a roof rack on on your SUV you might want to consider using a a car top tent  instead of sleeping on the ground.  Compared to being on the ground it is like having your own private penthouse, getting you away from bugs and snakes and other crawling critters that might invade your tent on the ground and giving you a room with a view.  Not sure how they stand up to wind and whether having a gap between the tent floor and the vehicle roof contributes to heat loss.  Something you might want to think about and prepare for if you are concerned.  I''m thinking guy lines to the ground should address any wind stability issues and perhaps a foam pad under the tent floor will mitigate any heat loss problems.  Unless your vehicle suspension is really stiff, any movement up in that roof top tent is likely to make vehicle bounce around a little bit.  You can eliminate that problem by putting trailer stabilizing jacks under the four corners of the bumpers.

Rack 'em up!

Duct Tape

The uses for duct tape are almost endless.  

Duct tape is often mentioned in these articles and many other places, with uses ranging from securing bandages to repairing tents and awnings, even as a temporary repair for ruptured radiator hose.  People often refer to it as duck tape, thinking they're being funny.  In reality, it actually was called duck tape before it was called duct tape.  One reason may be that it was originally made from strips of canvas duck material.   There is even a brand of duct tape named Duck Tape.  For you Star Wars fans, it has been said that duct tape is like The Force:  it has a light side and dark side and it holds the world together.

                                                     

During World War II, duck tape, strips of canvas duck with rubber adhesive, were used to seal ammunition cans and clever GIs soon found may other uses for it.  It is generally believed the name 'duck tape' was coined by Army users.

The transition from "duck" to "duct" likely took place after World War II when a company started making a high-temperature version of duck tape specifically for use on heating ducts and dubbed it "duct tape".  I have tried using duct tape on old ducts and usually had trouble getting it to stick. It probably works well on new construction but old ducts are usually pretty dusty and while the tape sticks to the dust very well, the dusty tape doesn't stick well to the ducts.  I find it kind of ironic that duct tape sticks to just about everything but ducts.

Most duct tape is gray or silvery in color but there are other colors available.   Popular colors include black, white, red, blue, green, and camouflage.   On occasion I have seen orange and yellow too.   I recently found some in my wife's favorite color, purple. I'm not sure what if anything we'll ever do with purple duct tape but I just had to get her some.

The hero on the TV show MacGuyver frequently used duct tape in his innovative inventions to help him in his role as a kind of secret agent and making duct tape a highly recognized household term, giving it a reputation for being able to fix most anything.  My dad, a professional auto mechanic, was fond of saying "If it can't be fixed with a hammer, it can't be fixed."   Duct tape enjoys a similar reputation.  My family acknowledges my wife as an expert in duct tape, bungie cords, and Goop glue.

Mythbusters has tested and verified a number of duct tape stories, including making a working cannon out of duct tape, sealing a leaking boat, and repairing a damaged airplane.  Not too long ago an Alaskan bush pilot repaired extensive damage to his airplane out in the bush and was able to fly it back to civilization.  He had another pilot drop some plastic sheets and 3 cases of duct tape.  Check it out at  Best Duct Tape Story Ever.

The uses for duct tape in camping and RVing are endless.   Typical applications include using it repair awnings, canopies, and tents and as a bandage to secure a dressing on wounds or to secure splints on broken bones.  I've seen it used to temporarily patch holes in rubber boots and to bind up leaking radiator and heater hoses.  You can tape up broken windows and secure siding that has come loose on your RV or tape up a cracked fender or side cover on your OHV until you can get somewhere to make permanent repairs.   Mythbusters even used it to repair a leaky boat!   Personally I haven't had much success sticking duct tape to wet surfaces but apparently it can be done with enough persistence.  For better adhesion on wet surfaces try something like Eternabond tape.  It isn't cheap but it does stick to wet surfaces, making it a good option for sealing actives leaks on RV roofs, tents, and awnings.

Duct tape is also good to have in your C.E.R.T. or emergency preparedness kit. In addition to traditional first aid and repair tasks it can be used for marking structures to indicate the search status or even to restrain unruly patients or other personnel who are interfering with emergency operations.

Isn't that just ducky?

Washing Dishes In Camp or On A Boat

OK, so what's so special about washing dishes in camp or on a boat?  After all, we all have plenty of experience washing dishes at home.   And even if we're used to having automatic dishwashers, there are still times when we've all had to resort to washing dishes by hand, so what's the big deal?  Of course, for many of us, the best way of cleaning dishes in camp is to simply toss the paper plates into the campfire.  But even when we use paper plates there are usually some other, non-disposable dishes (or pots and pans) used in preparing the meal that have to be washed.

If you're camping in an RV there is usually a tendency to wash dishes the same way we do at home.   RVs have a similar sink (though noticeably smaller) and (hopefully) plenty of hot water.  But doing things the same way in your RV or camper wastes water, fills holding tanks more quickly, uses more propane to heat water, and sometimes introduces garbage into the gray water tanks that cause odors or even blockages when dumping.  One way to avoid these problems is to use disposable (paper or styrene) dishes.  Then doing dishes is mostly as easy as tossing them into the campfire or the trash can.   But you usually can't cook in paper or styrene and when you do use real dishes, there are things you can to do mitigate potential problems.  First, clean your pots and pans and your dishes as quickly as possible when you're done using them, before food has chance to dry and "bake" on. Dump some water in them before they cool completely.  Then use paper towels or crumpled newspaper to wipe off the dishes instead of pre-rinsing them.   If you really must pre-rinse, don't run water from your faucet to do it. Use a dishpan or an empty gallon jug to collect water while you're waiting for the shower to get hot and save that for pre-rinsing dishes.   Dumping some of the saved shower water into pots and pans while they're still hot and letting them sit while you eat can make them a LOT easier to clean. Then use a good quality concentrated dish soap.   It will cut grease faster and better than the cheap stuff and the smaller bottle will take up less room in your RV or camp kit.  Organize your dishes before you start washing.   Do the things that require the least cleaning first.   For me that is usually cups and glasses, then silverware.   Bowls and plates are next and pots and pans last.  Pots and pans will be much easier to clean if you dump some of your saved pre-rinse water in them while they're still hot, as soon as you're done cooking in them.  That instantly begins to loosen sticky, stubborn material and it will continue to soften as it sits while you eat. (Yes, that is worth repeating!).  For your final rinse, fill a dishpan or the second sink and dip items in it rather than rinsing under running water.  Rinsing under running water wastes lots and lots of hot water!  These techniques will reduce water usage, minimize filling of holding tanks, and nearly eliminate accumulation of food residue in your plumbing and holding tanks.  Some RVs are now equipped with dishwashers, usually a drawer style under the kitchen sink.    Pre-clean dishes by wiping as described above and follow the manufacturers recommendations for detergent and rinse products.

Doing dishes while tent camping can be a tedious task.   First of all, unless you're in a campground that has a dish washing sink available for your use, you'll have to do everything in one or two dishpans right at your site.  You'll need to plan ahead and have a pot of water heating while you're eating so you have hot water ready when its time to clean up.  You can do dishes in cold water, but the results may not be as sanitary as you would like and it will take more soap and more elbow grease.  Washing dishes in cold water may leave a greasy or soapy residue on your cookware and dinnerware.  That is definitely NOT a good thing!  A fellow scoutmaster once quipped he didn't worry too much about the boys getting their dishes clean because it "solved the constipation  problem".   I suppose you could consider diarrhea as a solution to constipation, but not necessarily one you want to encourage.  I strongly suggest is is well worth the time and effort to heat up some water for doing dishes.  You might put an extra pan of water on the campfire or on an unused burner while you're preparing dinner.   If that doesn't work out for you, take minute or two to fill a pan and put it on the stove so it can be heating while you're eating.  From there, many of the suggestions given above for RVers will be helpful to tent campers as well.  Wipe off the dishes, put things in a logical order so you can do the ones that need the least cleaning first, use a good quality soap and remember to start pre-soaking pots and pans as soon as you finish using them.  Once you're done, you'll have to dispose of the dishwater.  There should be a designated dump location or you can dump it down the drain if there is community sink.  Lacking either of those options (when you're boondocking for instance), dump it somewhere away from camp sites, trails and roads and at least 200 feet from any lake, pond, spring, well, or stream.  Dump the soapy water first, then use the rinse water to rinse out the soapy dishpan as you dump it.  Always dry your dishes and put them away right away.   Sometimes it may be tempting to leave dishes out to air dry instead of drying them and putting them away.   I don't recommend it.   Leaving them out leaves them exposed to insects and vermin that might carry dangerous germs.   Chipmunks and squirrels are cute running around camp, but I wouldn't want them walking on  or licking my dishes! They are not very careful where they walk so you never know what they might be tracking.   And when it comes to flies, well, we all know what they've been walking on and we definitely don't want THAT on our dishes!  Not even tiny little fly footprints of it.  Not only is it unappetizing, it may contain e.coli bacteria, which can make you very sick.  Some campgrounds have community sinks where you can do your dishes.  Be sure to clean the sinks with detergent or an antibacterial household cleaner before and after use.  Don't pre-rinse your dirty dishes at the shared faucets.  That makes a mess that everyone has to deal with.  Pre-clean them at your site as previously described.

Hot water usually does a better job of cleaning than cold water, but in some situations you may have to resort to washing your dishes in cold water.   You might find yourself in an area with fire restrictions where you can't have a campfire to heat your water and if you don't have an approved stove you're out of luck.  You might have to use a little more detergent when using cold water, but you should still be able to get your dishes clean.  Any greasy or soapy residue left on your dishes, silverware, or pots and pans, could lead to stomach distress and what is commonly known as 'the runs' so make sure they are thoroughly cleaned and well rinsed before you dry them and put them away.  A scoutmaster I once knew said he never worried about making sure the boys got their dishes clean because it "solved the constipation problem in camp".   Not sure what planet he's been camping on but from what I've seen, the more common problems when camping are just the opposite of constipation!   By the way, be sure to buy a good quality, concentrated dish soap.  It will take up less space in your RV cupboard or camp bins and will work better than the cheap, watered down stuff. You want something with good grease cutting power.

Washing dishes on a boat usually has its own unique foibles.  For one thing, you may have to deal with movement.  Many small recreational boats don't have hot water systems so you will have to heat the water in a pan.  Try to use pot restraints to keep the pan from spilling if wind waves or a wake from a passing boat rocks yours.  The galley sinks on many small boats drain directly out into the water so avoid putting anything down the drain that might stain or damage the finish on the hull or contaminate the water, especially if you are in a fresh water lake or river that may be a drinking water source.

 
In a survival situation where you don't have any detergent, you can use ashes from you fire to scour your dirty dishes, especially pots and pans.  Really stubborn deposits might require rubbing with a little fine sand.  BTW, ashes mixed with cooking grease will create a kind of soap itself, so you can get things pretty clean that way.  You can make real soap from ashes and cooking grease or animal fat but it is time consuming.  Basically you start by leeching lye out of wood ashes, then mix the lye with animal fat.

Portable sinks can be useful in camp.   But since they don't usually have a supply of hot water, you still have to heat your water on the campfire or camp stove.  I have found portable sinks really handy for washing your hands and face or brushing your teeth, but not for doing dishes.   Simple dishpans are a better size and shape for washing dishes.  The cheap plastic ones from the dollar store will do the job, but heavier, better quality rubber versions will last longer and be less likely to crack in transit or in the middle of the job.

Dove brand dish has recently been advertising a spray and wipe product that might be useful in camp.  My wife has been using her own version for years.  She simply mixes dish soap with about an equal amount of water in a spray bottle.  It is an easy way to clean a few dishes without wasting a lot of water or time.

Doing dishes in camp doesn't have to be an onerous task.   If you plan ahead, get organized, and use the right tools and techniques, it will go quickly and you'll enjoy clean dishes and avoid the 'runs' that sometimes result from poorly cleaned pots, pans, and dishes.

Portable hot water systems can provide convenient hot water for tent campers (or RVs and boats that don't have water heaters) for dishes, showers, etc.  They are a little pricey -- somewhere north of $100 but you may find them well worth the cost if your budget can handle it.  However, you can heat water for doing dishes in any pan or pot right on your camp stove or campfire.  A portable hot water system will also let you have hot showers, so it might be worth the investment.  Another way to get hot water in camp is using a "sun shower", a black plastic bag you fill with water and leave in the sun to get heated.  Proper hygiene is essential for good health as well as comfort and presentability.

Wash up!

RV Wiring Basics

In addition to vehicle wiring (in a motorhome), there are usually two separate electrical systems inside the coach portion of an RV:  a 12-volt system and a 120-volt system which are separate from vehicle wiring (even trailers have vehicle wiring for running lights, etc).  The 12-volt coach system usually runs the lights, water pump, fans, and the electronic components of furnaces, water heaters, and refrigerators.   The 120-volt system powers the refrigerator when connected to 120-volt power, runs the roof air conditioner, provides power to the convertor to create 12-volt power without drawing down the batteries, and often powers TVs, VCRs, DVDs, and (if so equipped) washers and dryers etc.  Some RVs have water heaters with electrical heating elements.   Optional 120 volt "heat strips" on roof air conditioners sometimes supplement propane furnaces.  Winterized RVs may have heating pads or heat tape on holding tanks and exterior plumbing.  These heating elements are often designed with dual voltage capabilities so they can be run off either 12 DC or 120 volt AC electrical sources.  120-volt power is provided from a shore connection, on board generator, solar panels, or from batteries via an inverter.

12-volt wiring is usually fairly small gauge, mostly #12 or smaller.  The red wire is usually the 'hot' wire and the black wire is the ground.  Larger #10 wire may be used for special, high-amperage appliances, charging circuits, and main lines.   120-volt wiring usually follows standard configurations for residential and commercial wiring.  The black wire is the 'hot' wire, the white wire is the neutral and the green wire is the ground.   Yes, it is confusing that the black wire is ground for 12 volt and hot for 120-volt, but just remember that whenever you are working on your RV electrical systems.  I like to carry a few feet of #12 and #10 automotive wire, some extra crimp terminals, a roll of electrical tape, and some spare fuses in case I have to make repairs in camp or on the road.

12-volt systems are fairly safe and simple to work on.   There is no danger of getting electrocuted or even shocked by a 12-volt wire.  The biggest problem you might see is shorting out a circuit which will blow the fuse, or, if there is no fuse, melt the wiring. You can get arcing when you ground a 12-volt hot wire and that might burn you or start a fire.  You should never wire circuits that are not fuse or circuit breaker protected.  The whole point of a fuse or circuit breaker is to fail BEFORE the wiring gets hot enough to start melting insulation.   A short in an unprotected circuit can cause a fire. Normally the red wire will be 12-volt positive and the black wire the negative ground. Try to adhere to this convention whenever you add 12-volt wiring to your rig and always make sure you use a wire of a least sufficient size for the expected load and protect it with a fuse or circuit breaker of the proper rating.   Using a heavier wire (lower #) will never hurt, but using a lighter wire (higher gauge) risks overheating and possibly a fire.  Avoid working with live circuits.  Connecting and disconnecting live wires can create sparks, which could blow a fuse, cause a fire, or burn your hands.  If there are volatile fumes present (propane or gasoline vapor) sparks could cause an explosion.

120-volt systems are capable of delivering a nasty, potentially lethal, shock.   If you aren't familiar or comfortable with working on residential wiring, have the work done by a qualified electrician or RV technician.  Always turn off the circuit breaker or unplug the power to the RV and shut down the generator when working on 120-volt systems.   Professional electricians sometimes change outlets or switches without turning the power off, but the practice is not recommended, even for them.  If you're going to be working with wires, switches, outlets, or other 120-volt connections, turn off the breakers and/or unplug the shore power cord and turn off the generator and any inverters before you do anything and don't turn them back on until you have completed your repairs.  Normally the black wire in 120-volt applications is the hot wire, the white wire is the neutral, and the green or un-insulated copper wire is the ground.  It is important to conform to these standards when working with 120-volt wiring.   Electricity doesn't know or care what color wiring you're using, but it will matter to the next person who works on it -- which might be you!  It is critical that all 120-volt wiring is of sufficient size to handle the load on each circuit.  15 amp circuits need minimum 14 gauge wire; 20 amp circuits need 12 gauge wire; 30 amp circuits need 10 gauge wire.  There shouldn't ever be a problem using a heavier wire than necessary, but using a lighter gauge could prove disastrous.  Running higher amperage than the wire is rated for can result in heat, melting insulation and causing a fire.  Most RVs with 30 amp shore power will have mostly 15 amp breakers for the outlets plus a heavier breaker (and heavier wiring) to the roof AC.  At least one of my motorhomes used 12 gauge wiring on the 15 amp circuits (which is overkill) but you may find yours uses 14 gauge wire.

Most 120-volt wiring these days uses copper wire.  You might encounter aluminum wire in some older units.  Mixing different types of metals in the same circuit is not a good idea.   Aluminum and copper are both fairly good electrical conductors, but they have slightly different electrical properties and respond differently to various loads.   Connections between copper and aluminum can promote a electro-chemical reaction that accelerates corrosion.   If you MUST join copper and aluminum wires, treat the joint a special grease made for the purpose.  Do NOT use dielectric grease, which has insulating properties and should only be used on non-conducting portions of connectors.

RVs have a limited number of outlets.  Each circuit is protected by a circuit breaker similar to the ones in your home.  If you overload a circuit, the breaker will trip.  Make sure you know where the breaker panel is so you can reset breakers as needed.  Since RVs have limited power available, either from the shore cable or a generator, adding outlets or circuits may or may not be possible without exceeding the available amperage.  Be sure to check the total amperage so you don't exceed the input power available.  My big diesel pusher actually had some empty slots in the breaker panel where I was able to add a dedicated 20 amp circuit for an outside outlet to power the enclosed motorcycle trailer I towed behind it.  The 6000 watt generator also had some excess capacity.  Smaller rigs I've had have not had any empty slots and an analysis of the amperage indicated adding more circuits would exceed the shore power rating.  In that case you have to find a way to work with existing outlets.  If you have to splice into any existing wires, be sure to enclose the splice in an approved junction box.  DO NOT just twist wires together and wrap them with electrical tape like you do with 12-volt wiring.  You might install extra outlets on existing circuits for convenience, but take care to monitor the total load so you don't exceed the breaker rating.  Adding outlets may add convenience but it won;t add capacity!

The vehicle wiring on a motorhome or trailer should follow conventional wiring colors used on cars and trucks.  Normally, the positive battery cable or terminal should be red and the negative side black.  But it isn't always so be sure to check the polarity at the battery.   If your battery cables are not properly color coded, wrap each one with the appropriate color electrical tape (red for positive(+), black for ground(-)) for future reference.   Interior 12 volt lighting then follows the same color scheme:  red for hot, black for ground.  Trailer connector wiring usually uses yellow for the left turn signal, green for the right turn signal, brown for the tail lights, and white for ground.   On a 6 prong or bigger trailer connector, blue is usually used for the electric brakes and red for a battery-charging circuit.  You may encounter additions or repairs someone has done previously using different colors so always test the wiring using a test light or voltmeter before making any modifications.  Compare the connections to the plug to the appropriate wiring diagrams for each style of trailer connector.  You sometimes find that a vehicle and trailer have both been mis-wired and are compatible with each other but not with other units with standard wiring.  If you find any of your vehicles is mis-wired, it is always a good idea to bring it into compliance with accepted standards so your vehicle is compatible with other trailers and your trailer is compatible with other vehicles.

Trailer connector adapters are available to convert almost any trailer plug to fit almost any receptacle on the vehicle.  Small, light weight trailers without electric brakes often use a simple flat 4- connector plug or a round 4-connector plug.  Trailers with electric brake will have a round 6 or 7 connector plug to accommodate the brake wiring.  These plugs also have an extra terminal than can be wired to the tow vehicle battery/charging system so the two vehicle charges the trailer batteries in route.  Any time you have a charging circuit connected to the trailer the vehicle should use a battery isolator to keep the trailer from drawing down the vehicle battery in camp.  Battery isolators may be either electronic or solenoid types.  Electronic units use diodes to limit flow of current in one direction; solenoids use magnetically controlled switches to connect and disconnect isolated batteries depending on whether there is charging voltage available.

Loose connections are one of the most common electrical problems in an RV.  Connections to appliances and the fuse panel may use screw connectors or spade terminals.  If they use screw connectors, make sure the screws are tight, but take care not to strip them by over tightening.   Spade terminals may get loose over time, especially if they are removed and reinstalled a number of times. Sometimes you can crimp the female terminal gently with pliers to restore a tight fit.   If that doesn't work, you may have to replace the terminal.  It is a pretty simple task.  Sometimes you can pull them off the wire. If they are too tight you may have to cut the wire and strip about 1/4" of insulation to install a new terminal.  New terminals are best installed using special crimping tools.  You might try to crimp them with ordinary pliers in an emergency but that usually flattens out the connection and doesn't grip properly.  Heavy duty crimping pliers have a nub that presses into the terminal to ensure a good connection by tightly pinching the wire inside the sleeve of the terminal. They also have a channel that holds the sleeve of the terminal so it doesn't just flatten out when crimped.  When adding or replacing fixtures you may need to extend the wiring.  To ensure a good connection either use proper connections, such as butt connectors or wire nuts or twist the wires together and solder them, then wrap the joint with electrical tape or use heat-shrink insulation.  For some light duty applications, like speaker wires and some low amperage 12-volt connections you might get away with just twisting the wires together and wrapping the joint with electrical tape but using a connector or soldering the joint is always a better permanent solution.  Twisted joints that are not soldered may come loose if there is any tension on the wires and sometimes can come loose from vibration alone while traveling.   A loose speaker wire is annoying.  A loose hot wire can blow a fuse or even cause  a fire.

Ground connections are just as important as the hot wires.  Without a good ground, the circuit is not complete.  Bad grounds are a very common problem on RVs, in both the coach and chassis wiring.  If your clearance lights, park lights, turn signals or brake lights are dim, intermittent, or otherwise don't work properly, the problem is often a bad ground.  When diagnosing electrical problems always check the ground connections as well as the hot wires.  Ground connections seem to be particularly susceptible to corrosion.  Sometimes merely tightening a loose screw will solve the problem but often you may have to remove it and clean the surface and the connector and reinstall it to get a good ground. Protecting connections with some kind of corrosion block or battery terminal protectorant can reduce corrosion.  I've seen a bad ground cause the turn signals to blink all four park lights and all the clearance lights.  Lacking a good ground at one fixture, the circuit was completed through the ground on other fixtures, after passing through and activating the bulbs in those fixtures.  If you experience strange or unexplained electrical problems, check the ground connections.  When you have problems with lights, be sure to check the bulbs.  Sometimes a burned filament will short out inside a bulb and cause strange symptoms.   Corrosion on bulb bases and sockets, especially in exterior lights, is fairly common problem and can usually be solved by cleaning the socket and the bulb or cleaning the socket and replacing the bulb.  Sometimes corrosion causes the spring-loaded base in he socket to stick.  You can sometimes free it up by pressing on the base with a non-conducting tool such as a wooden dowel or a plastic shaft.  If that doesn't work, you may have to replace the socket.   Bad grounds can usually be fixed by removing the connection and cleaning both the terminal and the metal surface to which it is attached with a wire brush or emery cloth.  Both surfaces should be shiny before you put it back together.  Spraying the restored connection with battery terminal protector will help prevent (but not completely eliminate) a re-occurrence.  Even starting problems can often be traced to a bad grounding strap between the engine and the frame.  Many RVs have a fairly small grounding strap.  Enterprising owners have cured grounding problems by replacing the original grounding straps with much large battery grounding straps.

Motor vehicles, like motorhomes and tow vehicles usually have a big ground strap between the engine and the frame.  It is usually an un-insulated braided metal strap.  The connections often get corroded or may come loose over time, causing many electrical problems in the vehicle.  For example, a bad ground often causes symptoms similar to a faulty starter.  Simply removing the mounting bolts and cleaning the terminals and the mating surfaces with a wire brush until they are both shiny, then reinstalling the bolt tightly will usually solve these problems.  The terminal on the engine side may be greasy and would then benefit from cleaning with solvent as well.  The frame end is usually only corroded but if it is greasy, it should also be cleaned with solvent.  If the strap has deteriorated, it may have to be replaced.  The ground strap is often on the left (driver's side) of the engine.  Some folks add a second strap on the passenger side for extra reliability; it shouldn't be necessary, but it won't hurt anything.  Sometimes the factory grounding straps are pretty light weight, only about 3/8" wide and pretty thin.  I prefer to use one the size used as a ground strap on automotive batteries, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick.  They are less likely to be weakened by rust, corrosion, or vibration.

Problems with grounding of 12-volt circuits on RVs are very common.   If a light or appliance doesn't work or has intermittent problems, it is likely a problem with the ground connection.  Many fixtures on an RV are mounted on wood paneling (interior) or fiberglass (exterior) and neither conducts electricity like the metal boy on most cars and trucks does.   Grounding for exterior lights is often done through a ground wire connected to the fixture and the other end connected somewhere to the vehicle metal frame.  The connection to either the fixture or the frame may get loose or corroded over time and will cease to function.  Repair normally consists of unfastening the connection and cleaning away any rust, dirt, or corrosion, then reconnecting the terminal.  Sometimes you will  need to replace a bad screw to get a good connection and you should always polish the terminal and any surface (such as the frame) that it comes in contact with.  You might want to spray some battery protectant on the new connection to help reduce future problems with corrosion.  Often the terminals are made of aluminum or brass and the frame is steel so it creates a bi-metal reaction, also known as a galvanic corrosion when exposed to an electrolyte and an electric current.  Coating the connection can help protect it from electrolytes.

Occasionally broken bulbs can cause strange problems with lighting.   When a bulb burns out, the filament breaks so no electricity can flow through the bulb.  Sometimes the broken filament may come in contact with the base of the bulb, creating an unexpected ground within the bulb.  I've seen situations where such a broken turn signal bulb caused the taillights and all the clearance lights to blink when the turn signal was activated.   Such symptoms are usually short-lived because the extra load quickly burns out the broken filament again.

What often appears to be a bad bulb, may turn out to be a corroded base rather than a burned out filament.   Or it may just be a loose bulb.  A loose bulb might be fixed by carefully twisting it back into place.  If the socket appears to be too large you might be able to gently squeeze it tighter with a pair of pliers.   Take care not to deform the socket.  If that doesn't work, it is best to replace the socket.  If the base of the bulb is corroded, it won't have make good ground contact with the socket or a good hot connection with the "button" at the bottom of the bulb.  Try cleaning the bulb and the parts of the socket.  Be careful not to short between the sleeve of the socket and the "hot" button in the middle.  For added safety, turn off the switch to the fixture or disconnect the battery before working on the damaged socket.  Sometimes simply replacing a corroded bulb will solve the problem, but if the socket itself is corroded, it should be cleaned or replaced for best and longest lasting results.

Ultimately you are going to find having certain wiring tools will make your job easier and give you better results.  It is possible to strip insulation from wires using a knife, but a wire stripper will make it a lot faster, safer, and easier and will generally allow you to make better connections.  Wire crimpers are needed for installing crimp terminals.  Trying to clamp them down with pliers just doesn't work.  Pliers won't provide the indentation that crimpers do.  They just squeeze two sides of the terminal together and the wire will usually just slip out when there is even a little tension on it.  Manual wire strippers are sometimes standalone units and sometimes part of a stripper/crimper design.  With manual strippers you position the jaws where you want to start stripping and pull the wire so the tool removes the insulation from the end.   You can also get automatic wire strippers that grip the wire, cut the insulation and pull if off all in one move. There are also at least two styles of crimpers.  Some have different notches along the handles of a stripper/crimper tool with each notch designed for a specific size of wire/terminal.  Another, heavier duty style looks more like pair of pliers,  It has a notch on one of the jaws to hold the terminal and a nub on the other side to crimp it deeply.  The plier's style crimpers usually let you make a stronger connection and can be used on just about any size of  wire/terminal.  Electrician's screwdrivers are really handy when working on 120 volt outlets and switches.  There are two different special features for electrician's screwdrivers.  Some have insulated shafts to prevent accidental shorting.  Some have bent shafts that gives them a kind of crank-like shape that speeds installation of the screws that secure outlets and switches.  Both styles are readily available and not terribly expensive.

Wire up!