Bandanas For Camping and Boating

Bandannas are very useful for a variety of outdoor activities.  They are inexpensive, light weight, and versatile.  Bandanas can be useful for camping, hiking, boating fishing, hunting, horseback riding and riding OHVs, bicycles, and jet skis.  You can get them in almost any color to match or complement your wardrobe or riding gear.  There are special printed versions, shown a few paragraphs below, with first aid and survival instructions on them.  Here is a web page dedicated to Uses for Bandanas.   Be sure to scroll down far enough to see entire the list of more than 50 uses for bandanas.  Most common uses include tying them around your neck to protect your neck from sunburn and, when saturated with water, to aid in cooling your body and tying them around your head as a "do rag" to control your hair and keep sweat from dripping into your eyes.  They are also really handy for bandages and slings.

                                                    

A typical bandana is about 18" square.  In use it is usually folded diagonally to make a triangle. The triangle can be tied around your head as a head scarf or around your face bandit style to protect your nose and mouth from cold, snow, or dust.  These days it can even be used as a required COVID-19 facial covering.  You can tie the ends of the triangle together behind a victim's neck to make a sling.  You can wrap the bandana around body parts to hold a dressing in place over a wound.   You can roll the bandanna into a loose roll about 1 1/2" in diameter, wet it, and tie it around your neck in hot weather to protect your neck from sunburn and to cool you.  One of the reasons this works is it helps cool the blood as it passes close to the skin in the neck.  Most traditional bandanas have a kind of paisley pattern against the main background color but you can also find them in various camouflage colors and solid colors or with logos and other designs.  Another use for a rolled bandana is as a bandage to hold a dressing in place.  Remember, a dressing is the pad that covers a wound, a bandage is what holds it in place.  Band-aids are dressing and bandage all in one.

                                                       

Bandannas are not expensive.   They are typically around $1.00 each.  I've sometimes found them on sale 2 for $1.00.  This is one of the items I like to stock up on when I get the chance.  Even if you have enough for your own use, having some extras to loan to friends is kind of nice.  I like to have a choice of colors so I can coordinate my bandana with my riding gear or whatever casual clothes I happen to be wearing.   It can also be handy to color-coordinate different uses.   In proper use they can get dirty quite quickly, so having several to use during any given outing is a good idea.   They are light weight and don't take up a lot of room so they have little impact on space in your camping bins or your RV.  I like to keep a clean blue one for use with drinking water and other colors for headbands and other sweaty jobs.

Specialized bandanas, such a survival bandanas, first aid bananas, and knots bandanas are printed with pertinent information and will be more expensive than their generic counterparts.  They can act as a kind of manual to help you remember important skills and take up very little room in your pocket or pack.  They can, of course, be used for slings and bandages or signaling just as any other bandana.

               

Bandannas were adopted as gang colors by some urban gangs.   They wore them around their heads, tied around am arm or leg, or just hanging out of a pocket.  Wearing the wrong color in a neighborhood controlled by a rival gang could invite serious consequences.  Colors are usually not an issue in camping situations, but you might not want to wear red or blue, the colors of the "Bloods" and "Crips" gangs into a major city!  Wearing an opposing gang's colors when in the territory of a rival gang can trigger a violent and sometimes deadly reaction.

Some other uses of bandannas in a survival situation include water purification.  Hold a clean bandanna over a steaming pot of water until it is saturated, then wring it out to get safe drinking water.  It is a good idea to carry a specific bandanna for this purpose, one a different color than the one you wear.  Brightly colored bandannas can be used as a signal device to help rescuers locate lost parties.

Use a wet bandanna tied around your neck during hot weather to help keep you cool and to protect your neck from sunburn.  If you get lost or stranded in hot weather you might tie one or more to trees or bushes to give you a tiny little bit of shade..  One time you do not want to use a wet bandanna is if you are escaping from a fire!  The hot, moist air will sear your lungs.  

A clean bandanna can be used directly as a dressing on a wound or used as a bandage to secure a dressing or a splint or used as a sling to stabilize an injured arm.

When tying a bandanna as a head band, neck band.  or sling  you want to make sure the knot is secure but also want to be able to untie it when you need to remove it.  I usually use a square knot but don't pull it too tight.
   
Of course a bandanna can be used as a handkerchief to tame a runny nose or limit the spray from coughs an sneezes.   But you won't want to use it to dress a wound or filter your water after using it thusly without giving it a thorough washing first.  Another good reason to have -- and carry with you -- more than one.  Having several different colors makes it easy to keep track of which ones you are using for what purposes.

These days you can even use a bandanna as a face mask to meet government requirements for face coverings during the COVID-19 pandemic.  In the ''old days" bandits wore bandannas to hide their faces but during this COVID-19 situation they are acceptable, even required, for use by honest folks.

You might want to carry several bandannas of different colors.   They are inexpensive, light weight, take up little room, and are very versatile.  One source I read carries an orange one to use as an emergency signal and a blue one he uses only for filtering water.  Any other color might be used for a handkerchief, neck band, or head band.  Using this kind of logical color coding makes sense.  You might dedicate other colors for other uses so you don't end up filtering your water through one that has been used as a handkerchief or a sweat rag!

Tie one on!

Its Almost Winter Again!

My, how time flies!  So we must be having fun ("Time flies when you having fun").  Or as Kermit says "Time's fun when you're having flies."   Seems it was just the other day we were doing spring cleaning and getting ready for another camping season.  Now, it is mid September and as I look at the weather forecast, predicted overnight temperatures on the mountain where I am currently staying are rapidly approaching the freezing point.  We've even had a few snow flurries and the possibility of more snow in a day or so.  That means winterizing RVs or putting them in a heated garage to prevent freeze damage.   If you get a night or two of barely freezing temperatures with warmer days in between, full winterization may not be as critical as it is where you have sub-freezing temperatures (say 24° F or below) for days on end.  Then you MUST winterize your vehicle to prevent freeze damage.  Anything with water in it is subject to freeze damage.   That includes holding tanks, water lines, hoses, faucets, hot water heaters, water jugs, and even porta-pottys.  And make sure you remove any provisions that might freeze, like cans or bottles of soda, or you'll have a real mess next spring.  I try to make sure my RVs are winterized long before I get two or more nights at 24° F or below, as those temperatures are sure to start causing damage.

There are other posts on this blog and many excellent articles on other web sites that give detailed instructions on winterizing your RV so I won't repeat them here.  The point I want to make is it is time to start planning to winterize your rigs.   Remove provisions that could be damaged by freezing and properly protect all the water systems with appropriate antifreeze or by draining.   That means making sure engine coolant in motorhomes, generators, tow vehicles, and OHVs are properly protected with the right kind of antifreeze too.  Buy the RV antifreeze you need now before its all gone as "everyone" finally gets around to winterizing their boats and RVs.

What about "winterizing" yourself?  You probably need to drag out your warm winter clothes and snow boots and make sure they are in good condition to be used.  Hopefully you cleaned them and stored them properly, but they may still need to be aired out and you need to inspect them for insect or vermin infestations and damage.  If you live someplace with a true four-season environment you'll want to find or obtain thermal underwear and maybe some insulated socks.   Don't forget earmuffs or beanies to keep your ears from freezing.   A balaclava (face mask) is good to have to keep your face warm if you expect to be out in really cold weather or riding an OHV, snowmobile, or horse in cold weather.  Warm, water-resistant or water-proof gloves or mittens are essential for keeping your hands warm.  Some chemical heat pads like "Hot Hands" can help keep your fingers and toes and other body parts warm.   Mittens will keep your fingers warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  One of my winter favorites is a "ushanka" -- a Russian ear hat, those furry hats with flaps that cover your ears, neck, and part of your cheeks.  I find them very good for winter and even for extra cool desert nights.

What about winter activities?   Weather will likely have a significant impact on the kinds of activities you choose for winter.  Depending on where you live and you might switch over to winter sports, like skiing, snowboarding, or snowmobiling.  Or you might just put your outdoor energy toward getting ready for next year.   Now is a good time to perform routine inspections and maintenance on your vehicles and your gear.   Even if the weather is bad outside you can work on your camping gear and OHVs inside.   If your garage isn't heated you might use your catalytic tent heater to take the chill off.   Just be sure you have adequate ventilation.  Go through your RV or camping gear.  Make sure everything you used last year got back where it belongs and is clean and in good shape for next season.   Check your supplies and replace used up, damaged, outdated or missing items.  Check your sources for camping gear to see what may be available at year end or end of season closeout prices to enhance next year's outings.  Close outs and clearances are a good time to stock up for next year.   You may be able to snag a good deal on some new gadget or piece of equipment you've been wanting or just stock up on expendables.  Be sure to check online resources like ebay and craigslist.   You might even find some stuff on Freecycle.com, a web site where people list things they want to get rid of.  You never know.  Someone may need to make room in their garage and have just the tent you're looking for and all you have to do is go pick it up!  Freecycle is an interesting way to recycle useful items.   You may find YOU have stuff you don't need anymore. Listing it on Freecycle.com may make it available to someone who can really use it and you don't have to hassle with setting prices or haggling with prospective buyers.   It sure beats throwing it in the trash!

Ready. Set. Snow!

Glamping

Glamping is a made-up word for "glamour camping".  It might have appealed to my friend whose idea of roughing it was having to ring twice for room service.  Glamour camping can take place just about anywhere but commercially is most often offered by upscale hotels, even in places like Manhattan.   It combines the fun of sleeping in a tent, perhaps on a penthouse patio, with the comfort and convenience and service of a first rate hotel.  The closest I've come to glamping is staying in my 40' Class A motorhome.  And while many luxury RVs might seem like glamping to some people, it is really far more than that.

Glamping has become a novelty market in places like fancy hotels in New York City where you can "glamp out" on a terrace.   You still have full access to room service, indoor plumbing and electronic entertainment and communications, but your "bedroom" is an elegantly appointed tent on the veranda.  Of course if the weather turns bad or just find you're not enjoying it, you can always go back inside.

Glamping is probably not something most families would or could do without outside assistance.  You are more likely to make reservations to "glamp" at a luxury hotel, but you might go glamping anywhere, provided you have the support resources to set it up.   Perhaps if you already have a well-trained and dedicated domestic staff you could have them orchestrate your glamping trip. One image of "glamping" that comes to mind is the tent of the English Lady in the movie "Hildago" and the elegant setting for offering Hildaldo tea.   You might begin to approximate your own glamping experience by upgrading standard camping equipment to greater luxury.  The large (queen or king sized) air mattresses with electric pumps might provide you with a far more comfortable bed than a standard sleeping pad or camp cot.  A large, mulit-room tent with a private bedroom where you can indulge yourself with silk pajamas might add to the ambiance.   To get the most out of a full-on glamping adventure you'll need room service, or something like it, to deliver your meals and snacks and other refreshments in a timely manner.  Perhaps some fairly mature kids could give their parents a bit of a glamping weekend by performing those services for them.

Home made glamping is made easier if you have a luxury RV.  You don't need any special tents or special bedding, just use the comfortable queen or king size bed in the private master bedroom of your RV.  Meals and snacks are more quickly and easily prepared in the fully functional galley of most RVs than in a primitive camp.  Some purists might consider any form of RV camping as glamping, but they would be overstating it.  Perhaps you could consider RV camping to be glamping if all the driving, setup, cooking, cleaning, etc. are handled by a chauffer, butler, cook, and maid but I have yet to see such an arrangement.  For one thing, why bother going out at all if you're going to keep the same level of pampering you get at home?  Part of the whole idea of camping (or even glamping) is to get out of your normal routine.   That being said, a glamping experience in a fancy hotel would be an escape from most people's "ordinary" lives and quite a treat for most people.

You might give yourself a taste of glamping by treating yourself to a nice steak dinner and a decadent desert instead of the standard burger or bowl of chili before retiring to the comfort of your cozy motorhome.   If you're a tent camper, be sure to upgrade to a queen or king size air bed instead of sleeping on the ground.  For a safe "candlelight" experience try some battery operated LED tea lights.  They give off about the same flickering light as a single candle without the risk of setting your bedroom on fire.

Glamp out!

RV or Tent Living Large

Most of us have a tendency to think bigger is better.   Doesn't matter whether its a tent or an RV a car or a permanent residence.  Bigger usually means more luxury and more comforts and more prestige.  People tend to start out camping small, with a pup tent or a tent trailer, but after a few years, their "needs" and wants begin to grow.  When you are camping alone you can get by sleeping in a pup tent, but, as your family grows, a larger family tent will usually be more be comfortable and can be used for more than just sleeping.  A tent trailer offers a lot of amenities, but a big motorhome or travel trailer delivers even more luxury, comforts, and convenience.   A little tent trailer gets you up off the ground but a motorhome or travel trailer can deliver near residential services and conveniences anywhere you go.   If you've ever had to weather out a storm in a tent you'll appreciate having some kind of RV with solid roof and a nice, forced air furnace to warm you up!  If you have kids you will really come to appreciate having a TV to keep them occupied on rainy days and long trips.

But is bigger ALWAYS better?  Not necessarily.  A bigger tent is going to be heavier to carry around and will take up more room in your car, your trailer, and your shed or garage.  It will take longer to set up and to strike.   It will be harder to heat in cold weather.  It will probably cost more. One must weigh these disadvantages against the perceived comfort and prestige of using a larger tent. Larger RVs usually have more amenities, but may be limited on where they can go.  Some places have restrictions on length, height, and weight.   Bigger motorhomes don't always mean room for more people.  Many large, luxury, Class As are designed for just two people while smaller Class C's often have sleeping accommodations for 6-8 people.  Going from a Class C to a bigger Class A might actually reduce the number of people who could "live" comfortably in a rig.  And you can usually be VERY comfortable in a moderate sized RV.   If it doesn't come with all the luxuries you want, they can usually be added.  Big things like washers and dyers aren't usually very feasible, but many of the other conveniences found on high end rigs can be added to more modest units to improve comfort, convenience, and livability.   It is mostly a matter of cost.  The one thing that usually can't be added, is more room.

Bigger usually means there is more to maintain and keep clean.  A bigger tent or RV is going to take more time to clean and take more work to maintain.  Usually that will also translate into higher costs for larger accommodations.

Why would you want a larger tent or RV?   Sometimes, as families grow, they really need more space.   We started out with a Class B van conversion and it worked well for our little family of 4.   We even added an extra bunk across the front seats when our third child came along.  But as our family continued to grow we physically outgrew the little van.   If we were going to continue camping in an RV we clearly needed a bigger one.  The same thing can happen with tents, but you may have more options with tents.  One alternative to upsizing is to just buy a second tent.   That works pretty well when you have older kids who can and want to be in their own tent, but it may not work as well for families with younger children or members who need constant supervision.  A second reason for going bigger is probably more of a want than a need.  That is the desire for more "elbow room" in your facility.   You might get by for a while longer with the smaller equipment, but we all love our creature comforts, and even if you're not particularly claustrophobic, things can get cramped in camp when you put too many people into too small a space.  Sometimes the additional space is a practical concern, like having enough room to safely cook meals in an RV or having enough room to get dressed in a tent.   Larger tents are often perceived as more luxurious so we think we want them.  That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but we should always weigh the actual values, not just perceived benefits, versus cost and other factors that impact usage.  Remember, a bigger tent will take up more room in your vehicle, be heavier to carry around, and harder to keep warm on cold days.

If you are tempted to upsize your RV or tent, make sure you know what you are getting and that it will deliver the benefits you seek and you are aware of the additional requirements or restrictions it may bring.  Jumping to a large Class A when you need more beds for a growing family may be a big disappointment.  You may find transporting, setting up, and taking down a huge, heavy family tent is more trouble than it's worth.  On the other hand, if a larger facility meets your needs and satisfies your wants -- and you can live with the conditions that come with it -- by all means, go for it!  I must admit I look with a certain amount of envy at some of the newer "front porch" and "lodge" tents, but since my primary camping is via RV and I don't have a large family at home any more, those large tents would just be extra weight to carry around and extra room to heat.  If I were going to be staying in one camp site for an extended time I might have time to enjoy a bigger tent, but most likely it would just be more space to heat and keep clean!  BTW, we've never  been sorry we upgraded our RVs over the years.  Each upgrade was done with quite a lot of thought and research and whole lot of price comparison.

Prestige -- or at least the perception of prestige -- is sometimes a factor in upgrading.  But ask  yourself if you are doing it for your own benefit or to try to impress others.  Sometimes a larger RV or even a larger tent make people feel better about themselves, and that is certainly OK.  But if you find your interest in upgrading is mostly to impress your friends, it is a good idea to re-think it!   In most cases I wouldn't think prestige or ego should be a sufficient reason to get bigger facilities.   It could be a lot of expense without delivering any real benefits.   But, if you will really enjoy using a larger tent or having a bigger RV, if it makes it more fun for you, then go for it.   Only you can decide if the cost of going larger is worth the financial outlay and any additional effort or limitations your larger equipment will impose on you.

Before you go out and spend big bucks for a bigger tent or RV, invest some time researching  your options.   Check out bigger RVs at trade shows, at dealer lots, and among your fellow campers.   Make a list of potential upgrades so you can compare features and prices.  The same thing applies to upsizing your tent:  check out the options.  Make sure you know what you want before you blow big bucks on something that may or may not satisfy you for very long.  If you can, always try before you buy.  It may seem like a waste of money to rent equipment, but if lets you zero in on getting the right stuff without blowing your budget on purchasing errors, it will save you money in the long run.

Many of us have become accustomed to saving money by buying the "giant economy size" offerings and case lots at supermarkets and warehouse stores like Costco and Sam's Club.   That may make sense when you have appropriate storage for them at home, but when camping, in an RV or a tent, bigger is definitely not always better.  You need to balance the quantity of many products against their use, storage, and transportation.   A 50# bag of flour may be a good choice for your kitchen or pantry at home, but it is usually a lot more than you'll need for any ordinary family camping trip.  Buy or bring along sizes that match your expected consumption. Y ou may still be able take advantage of the price savings on bulk purchases if you simply re-package just what you need for each outing and leave the excess home.

Ultimately the best solution is "right sizing":   choose the RV or tent that is right for your current needs.  The same thing can be said for most of your camping equipment and even supplies.  Having a stove that is sufficient for your needs beats the heck out of trying to work with one that is too small and is inadequate for preparing meals for your family.  But having one that is too big is just going to take up extra room, add weight, and cost you more money.  The right size tent will fit your family without taking up too much room, being too difficult to set up and take down, too hard to keep warm, or adding too much weight.

Live large -- judiciously!

Hobbies on the Road

For some RVing or OHVing is a hobby all by itself.   For others, especially those who may be full-timers or spend significant time in their RV each year, they have other hobbies they may want to bring along.  For some an RV is the means to get where they're going to exercise their hobby.  RVs make good base camps for hiking, fishing, hunting, birdwatching, sight seeing, OHV riding, horseback riding, and rock collecting.

What hobbies can you bring along?  You are really only limited by your imagination and how much specialized equipment your hobby requires -- and how much room you have to haul it.  Some typical things people bring along include various kinds of sewing or needlework, jewelry making, music (especially portable instruments like guitars, banjos, and harmonicas), and wood carving. If your hobby is furniture making you may need an equipment trailer to serve as your shop and haul the lathes and other power equipment you use.  I have seen a few RV parks that cater to woodworkers and, over time, customers have built up a pretty complete workshop.  Things like stamp and coin collecting take up little room in an RV.   I would be a little concerned about security for high-dollar hobbies like these.  In the first place, I would minimize the exposure by not openly advertising my collection (security by obscurity).  Next I would invest in a quality floor safe to house my valuables, install an alarm system, and be sure to lock up whenever I have to leave my RV.

Some resorts and other destinations cater to specific hobbies.  The annual winter encampment at Quartzite, Arizona, is a jewelry and rock hound heaven.  I have read of resorts that have wood shops with equipment donated by customers or acquired through fund raising by selling products created there by clients during their stay.  Some resorts support various sports and games, like golf, shuffleboard, and pickleball by providing facilities and even sponsoring tournaments.  We had a small archery range at the resort where I worked as assistant manager a couple of summers ago.  Some locations may serve as a base camp for OHV trails.

Crafts of various kinds are popular pastimes for campers.   Because many crafts, like jewelry making and various kinds of needlework, require little in the way of bulky materials or tools, they lend themselves well to to semi-nomadic lifestyle of campers.  You might even find a market for your wares within campgrounds.

Music is a common hobby among RVers.   You will mostly find campfire compatible instruments like guitars, banjos, harmonicas, and tambourines but I've seen at least one couple that also brought along a bass fiddle to entertain their fellow campers.  Folk music and bluegrass music seem to most popular, with country music close behind, followed by pop music.  There are even special "break-away" guitars that fold up to be more compact for RV travel.  Or get a Martin "Backpacker" guitar.  The Backpacker is very compact but it doesn't have a lot of volume.  It is a nice option to entertain yourself in your tent, but probably not loud enough for a sing-a-long around the campfire.   Brass instruments and electric guitars aren't very common in campgrounds.  Synthesizers offer an abundance of sounds if you prefer keyboards and can sometimes be quite compact and easy to transport.  You will probably need a campground with electrical hookups or a generator to power them.

For some collectors, RV trips are hunting expeditions.   Since you are often traveling outside your normal stomping grounds you have a chance to seek out bargains in places off the beaten path.  That works pretty well for small collectibles like stamps, coins, dolls, books, records, etc., but you'll need to pull a big trailer if you're hunting for furniture or other large antiques.  Or come back for them or pay to have them shipped.   Sometimes it is cheaper and a lot more convenient to bring a rental truck back than to pull a big trailer all over creation and half of Georgia!   Some people may be tempted to use their RV roof as a cargo area.  This is generally not a good idea, especially for large or heavy items.  The risk of injury to people or damage to the items or the RV while loading or unloading is too great.   Carrying heavy items on the roof may damage the roof and could affect handling.  Having items exposed to the elements and sticking up where they might get caught on limbs or other low hanging obstacles is also a recipe for trouble.  It is amazing what people collect these days.  Old school lunch boxes, cereal boxes, dolls, toys, clocks, bottle-caps;  you name it!  If you have an interest in and knowledge of such items you may be able to find good deals on salable items as you travel.  Some people put their finds on ebay immediately and sell them while they're still on the road, sometimes paying for their trip and even turning a profit.  You may even be able to write off some of your travels on your taxes if your trip is a legitimate expedition to search for merchandise or buyers.

Camping itself is a hobby for some people.  Collecting and trying out new camping gadgets is always fun to do.   Scouring local stores or even garage sales for unusual camping items or bargains can be very exciting and rewarding.  Talking with rangers, camp hosts, and fellow campers enhances your knowledge of the area and adds to your camping skills.   There are lots of opportunities for creative camp cooking.

For some people shopping and bargain hunting is a hobby.   The proliferation of "Factory Outlet" shopping centers near freeway off ramps attests to the popularity of bargain hunting. Many advertise having RV parking.   Many times you will find special deals on clothing, household goods, tools, and camping gear.  There was an auto parts store near my parents' house that I liked to check out whenever we went for a visit.  I usually found some new hand tools at better prices than I ever saw at home.  Don't know what their secret was.  It was a small town so I'm pretty sure they weren't fencing stolen goods!  Which brings up another consideration:  if something seems too good to be true, it usually is!   If someone offers you something like a Rolex watch for $50 you can be sure it is either a fake, it is broken, or it is stolen!  Caveat emptor!   But there are rare exceptions.   Like a man who saw a late model Cadillac advertised in newspaper classifieds for just $50.  Since the asking price was way below even the salvage value that a junk yard would pay he was very skeptical but finally decided to check it out anyway.   He found the vehicle was in like-new condition, with no hidden history, accident damage, liens, or being a murder site or anything nasty like that.  It was clearly worth thousands of dollars.  Because so many people were skeptical or believed the price to be a misprint, he was the only one that showed up to actually look at the car.   Turns out the car had belonged to the woman's late husband, who, in his will, had directed that it be sold and the proceeds given to his mistress!   The savvy and understandably unhappy wife cleverly found a way to comply with his request without giving much of anything to the mistress.

Some people have hobbies they like to take with them when camping.   As you might  expect, some hobbies lend themselves to being incorporated into camping activities more than others, although you might be surprised at some of the options.   For example, woodworking usually requires a lot of special tools and a considerable amount of specialized equipment and plenty of room to work.  While those requirements are rather difficult to include in your personal RV, I have read of campgrounds that cater to woodworkers and have a fairly well equipped shop available for their use with machines donated by or purchased by regular users.  However most people who take their hobbies on the road with them choose activities that are pretty much self contained and for which all the necessary supplies and equipment can be conveniently pack in the RV.  Musicians take their portable instruments.  Most kinds of needle work can be fairly easily adapted for camping.  Scrapbooking is popular among some people.  Stamp collecting and coin collecting can be accommodated, but because these sometimes involve high value items  you may need extra security, such as a safe.

If you are going to take your hobby on the road with you, think about what special features, supplies, and equipment you may need.  If you need computer access for research, inventory, or bookkeeping, do you have an appropriate place in your RV to set up a work station?   If you need a place to examine items, do you have appropriate work space and adequate lighting?  If you need any special tools do you have them and have an appropriate and convenient place to put them in your RV? If you find you are deficient in any way, it might be a good idea to wait until you have things ready before you hit the road.   With a little creativity you can usually adapt your RV to accommodate your needs.

Some hobbies can also be a revenue source for RVers.  I've seen RVers sell hand made craft items and others who shop garage sales, flea markets, and 2nd hand stores for collectibles they can resell on ebay.  Reselling right away on ebay avoids the need to haul stuff around as you can usually package it up and send it via UPS or the USPS from almost anywhere.

Sometimes an RV can be a hobby of its own.  Certain traditional brands, like Airstream and Shasta, even have large owner clubs who foster sharing information and activities.   But even an "ordinary" RV can be a hobby to some owners -- customizing it, using it, improving it, showing it off.

Hobbies are fun!

Using Tarps for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Tarps are a handy resource in just about any camp (or around home too).   They can be used for extra shade, extra rain protection, to cover equipment, and as ground cloths under or inside your tent or even to make a tent.   Tarps come in many different strengths.   The lightest and least expensive tarps (not counting plastic drop cloths) are polytarps and they come in different colors.  The blue tarps are usually the lightest and least expensive.  They will normally be sufficient for most camping temporary tasks.  For a stronger tarp (good for under your tent or longer term use), choose a green "farm tarp" or one of the heavier silver tarps.   For really heavy duty applications, go for a heavy canvas tarp.  There are different grades or weights of canvas tarps, depending on what you need to cover and for how long.  Another consideration is whether the tarp will be stationery or on a vehicle or otherwise subjected to high winds and extreme weather.  How heavy a tarp you need depends on how you're going to use it and how far you have to carry it!   Heavy canvas tarps will be the most durable and provide the most protection, but they are very heavy to carry around if you're hiking or have any distance to tote your equipment from your vehicle to your camp site.  They also tend to be stiff and somewhat harder to work with, especially when its cold.  Light weight "poly" tarps are usually sufficient without the added weight and they take up far less room.  And they are inexpensive and are usually waterproof. u But there are even heavier alternatives out there.  My parents have roll up tarp "walls" on their carport in Oregon.  They are made of the heaviest canvas I've ever seen, at least 3/16" thick and the weave is as coarse as a wood rasp (I  have had the skinned knuckles to prove it)!  They've been in use for over 50 years  of Oregon rain and are still going strong.   They are permanently mounted to the carport but can be rolled up when necessary.  Of course, they are WAY too heavy to consider for camping.   Plastic painter's sheets are just the opposite -- very light, very thin plastic film.  It is inexpensive, waterproof, and easy to carry.  But it isn't very sturdy and is easily punctured or torn. You might use one or more temporarily to keep the rain off, but they won't provide much shade and probably won't stand up to wind and weather very well.  Using one as a ground cloth is pretty much an exercise in futility.  They are so fragile that small twigs and pebbles will easily make holes in them and render them useless.

Tarps come in a variety of sizes so you can usually find one close to the size you need.  Harbor Freight has a wide selection of tarps in various strengths and sizes.  Watch for their ads and flyers and you can often find them on sale to save even more money.

Actual measurements of tarps are usually slightly smaller than the advertised size.   For example, an 8x10 tarp will probably actually measure 7'6" by 9'6".  Be sure to take that into consideration when you buy a tarp.   The actual finished size is usually marked somewhere on the package.   If you want a ground cloth for an 8x10 tent, you may have to buy the next size bigger tarp and fold the excess under.  On the other hand, using a standard "8x10" tarp fits nicely inside an 8x10 tent and even might be just right for use under an 8x10 tent.  It would likely be about 2-3" smaller than the tent on each side so it wouldn't stick out and collect run-off. But -- it could also leave 3" of tent floor exposed to the damp ground and/or debris.  Since you usually won't be walking that close to the walls, the 3" probably won't be a problem.  The trimmed size is usually very good for an inside layer to protect the floor.

For best results as a ground cloth, use a heavy duty tarp underneath your tent to protect the floor against debris and ground moisture.  Use a second tarp inside your tent for added waterproofing to your sleeping bags don't absorb moisture.  The inside ground cloth doesn't need to be as heavy as the one underneath the tent but it should be waterproof, like a plastic tarp.   Using closed cell foam sleeping pads beneath your sleeping bags will give you even better protection and comfort.  Even if you are using sleeping pads to protect your sleeping bags, having an inside ground cloth covering the entire tent floor will help keep the floor clean and be more comfortable when you are moving around in stocking feet and will help protect the floor from damage.   For exceptional comfort, add foam tile to cover your tent floor inside.  It will be like having a wall-to-wall sleeping pad.  The foam tiles are light weight, easy to assemble, and easy to clean.  With both foam tiles and a sleeping pad, you'll be sleeping on cloud 9!

With use tarps will eventually loose some of the their water repellent capability.  Repeated folding, crushing, or whipping in the wind breaks down the structure and wears away the coating. When your tarp begins to get soft and fuzzy and the color begins to fade it is probably time to replace it.  Not only will it have lost some of its ability to keep you dry, it will have been weakened and may rip in the next strong breeze.  Most polytarps will be kind of shiny when they are new and begin to dull as they age.  Sometimes you can extend a tarps waterproof lifetime by spraying it with a waterproofing like Camp Dry.

Tarps can be hung between trees or vehicles or on poles to form a makeshift canopy to provide shade or protection against light rain.   Tarps can be added as an extra "rain fly" over tents for extra protection against rain and sun.   Tarps can be used to cover your firewood and your camping equipment and OHVs to protect them from weather.   I've even seen multiple tarps used to cover an entire camp site.  The center was very high, both for rain run off and to allow building a campfire.  It rained almost that entire weekend, but the large, extended family stayed dry and enjoyed their outing.  Some of the teens had fun dumping the water out of the low spots periodically to help prevent the tarps from coming down.

You can make your own tent using tarps.  A simple shelter can be made by hanging a single tarp over a rope or other cordage or a rafter stretched between two uprights  For more weather protection, use multiple tarps to also enclose the open ends. .  Or you can use one to make a simple lean-to ito keep the rain off.

Tarps are often used to cover equipment in the bed of a truck or utility trailer during transport. They need to be securely anchored to withstand the wind forces that occur at highway speeds.  For the best protection against rain, drape the tarp over the sides of the bed and secure it underneath.  If you leave it inside the bed water can run down and soak your cargo.  In camp they can protect equipment from sun and from rain and snow.   They provide some level of security too -- sometimes just keeping your stuff out of sight avoids it being "acquired" by opportunistic thieves.   "Security by obscurity" is a valid and valuable way of protecting your stuff.

We have found several uses for tarps on our sailboat.  Because wind driven rain can sometimes blow under the companionway slide we usually drape a small polytarp over the cabin to protect the companionway from the rain when anchored.  We hang a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for extra shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Tarps can be used as temporary sail covers if you don't want to take the time to flake the sails and put them away when you stop for a while.  Large tarps can be used to cover your boat to protect it from the elements during the off season.

Small holes or tears can usually be repaired using duct tape or vinyl tape.   Make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape.  For added security, put tape over the damaged area on both sides of the tarp.  Because of the oily waterproofing used on canvas tarps, regular tape may not always stick well.  If any tarp is exposed to wind and weather, the tape may come off.  For best results stitch a waterproof patch in place and seal it with tent seam sealer -- or just replace the tarp.   If there are too many holes and repairs, it becomes something like a description I once heard of how to make a net:  take a bunch of holes and sew them together.   You'll want to replace your tarp long before it reaches that stage. 

Tarps usually come with metal grommets evenly spaced around all 4 sides.  These are useful for tying or staking down the tarp.  If you have a tarp without grommets or need more grommets you can buy grommet kits at most camping stores.  They usually include two-piece grommets, a tool for punching the right size hole in the tarp, and a tool for "setting"the grommet.  That tool consists of a shaped bottom plate that holds the flat piece of the grommet and a driver tool that is used to rivet the second piece to the first using a hammer.  You can also buy tarp clamps that will add "eyes" for attaching ropes without punching holes in the tarp.  Another trick for securing a tarp is to out small rock or short twig near the edge and wrap the tarp around it and secure it with a piece of rope or twine and tie a guy rope to it.  There are also tarp clamps you can use in place of grommets  Here is an example of commercially available tarp clamps:

                                                        

You can buy them at places like Walmart, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Amazon.

Tarps and tent fabrics degree of water proofing are measured by something called hydrostatic pressure.   It represents the pressure necessary to force water through the fabric.   Heavy rain and wind-driven rain will create a higher hydrostatic pressure than light rain so you need a stronger fabric to keep out extreme weather.  A rating of 1000 mm hydrostatic pressure is regarded as shower resistant.  1500 mm rating is sufficient for a summer tent.   2000 mm is the minimum for an all season tent.  Higher ratings of around 3000 mm are used for expedition tents and 5000 mm for really good quality ground cloths.  You probably won't find the ratings for a particular item without doing some extra research.

We use a small polytarp to cover the cabin on our sailboat to prevent wind-driven rain from blowing under the companionway slide when the boat is not in use.  We pull a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for added shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Commercial boom tents can cost hundreds of dollars.  They may look nicer, but don't really function any better than an inexpensive tarp.

Small tarps can be used as emergency ponchos.  The only downside is that you need to cut a hole in the middle to put your head through, perhaps limiting its value for other uses.  For short term use you may be able to just drape it over your head and shoulders like a cape.  Conversely, ponchos can sometimes be  used as small tarps.  The built in hood helps compensate for the hole in the middle.

In an emergency you might cut open a large plastic trash bag and use it as a small tarp, but for best results keep a variety of tarps on hand to accommodate different needs.  Small tarps are surprisingly inexpensive.   I often see them at dollar stores.  Large plastic garbage bags make pretty good ponchos too, and they're a lot cheaper than tarps.

Tarp it!

Blog Policy on Endorsements

In some places in this blog I have openly endorsed certain companies and certain products and even included links to relevant web sites.  Sometimes I provide a link to a product as an example.  In such cases please do not construe that as an endorsement of the specific brand although I wouldn't be including them if I didn't find them personally acceptable.  I have received no compensation for these links or endorsements.  I list them because I have had good experiences with the products and/or the company.   I receive no compensation from guest contributors either.   I carefully consider any submissions to be sure they fit the overall purpose of this blog and provide readers with valuable information.  While I allow guest contributors to post links to their own websites and products, I try to make sure all such postings are compatible with my endorsement policy.   I will not accept blatant brochures that have no intrinsic value to my readers -- they must at the very least pose a reasonable source or solution to issues.

Most consumers are quick to complain when they receive poor service and slow to take action when things go well.   It is a natural human response. However, in this blog, I strive not to bad mouth any product or company.  If there are specific product failures or defects, I may report them.  I have made and will continue to make special mention of products and companies that exceed expectations.  They deserve some positive attention.   All too often in today's very impersonal commercial world individual customers get lost in the numbers and statistics. Those companies who respect their customers and stand behind their products are worthy of special mention.  I believe doing so not only benefits the companies but provides a valuable service to my readers.  I know I would certainly be more comfortable knowing a product or a company had received a good review and was recommended by someone knowledgeable that I could trust.  I strive to be that someone for my readers.

So, when you see links to product web sites within my articles, they are not paid advertisements.  I provide the links for information purposes and to aid my readers in researching products I have reported on. You won't see Internet ads on my blog since I would not be able to control the quality or relevance of the material.

My endorsements are unbiased, except by my personal opinion of the product, service, or company.

History of Motorhomes & RVs

How long have motorhomes been around?  I guess that depends on whether you're talking about home made rigs or factory built jobs.  People started making modifications to cars and trucks, creating "housecars" almost as soon as motor vehicles were introduced.  Supposedly the first motorized factory RV was Pierce-Arrow’s Touring Landau, which debuted at Madison Square Garden in 1910.  The Landau had a back seat that folded into a bed, a chamber pot toilet and a sink that folded down from the back of the seat of the chauffeur, who was connected to his passengers via telephone.  The Motorhome Hall of Fame Museum includes a 1915 Model T Ford with a 1916 "Telescope Apartment" and Mae West's 1931 motorhome, so custom made variations have been around a long time.  Ray Frank is credited as being the father of the class A and with coining the term "motorhome", and built his first motorhome in 1953.  His company, Winnebago, began their famous production motorhome line in 1966. They did so well that for many years "Winnebago" was (and often still is) synonymous with "motorhome".   If you search the Internet you'll find all kinds of home-made motorhomes, some that look like Lil Abner's shack mounted on a flatbed truck, some made from old school buses, some luxury Class As built on Greyound and Prevost bus chassis, and even some made from double decker London transit buses.  The variations are endless.  One I saw, that I guess could be called a Class B motorhome, was made from a Volkswagen van and used the body of a Volkswagen "bug" as an extended top.   Kind of clever, but very strange looking.  I assume the extra set of headlights on the bug were not for highway use.  Similarly, there is a "Super C", built on a heavy duty truck chassis that uses an entire VW bus as a "bubble top".

For a look at some really creative "motorhomes" see Old and Unusual Motorhomes.  (Sorry, this link seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

Here are some more odd RV photos Malia Smiles Unique and Strange RVs. (Sorry, this link also seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

And here are seven more Strange RVs for your amusement.  (Sorry, this link also seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

Wow!  I'm batting 1000 on lost pages!  Too bad they're gone.  There were some really neat and unusual motorhomes on those sites.  

Check out these unique motorhomes, from Caddys to VWs. (This one still worked when I checked it 12/07/2020).


How about this Castle Truck?

I guess YOU are the motor for these "motor" homes: Bicycle Motorhomes. I sure wouldn't want to pedal one of those up any hills! If you look closely at the pictures you'll even see a shopping cart tent trailer!

Here are some more unusual RVS.   There is no limit to the imaginative creations people come up with.

And the list goes on with these weird campers.  The first one in the list is the previously mentioned Super C with the VW bus as a bubble top.  And be sure to scroll down far enough to see the Wothahellizat.

Think slide-outs are a modern invention? The 1915 Model T with Telescope Apartment mentioned above had multiple slide-out compartments, including the main telescoping section.

The interior treatments can be just as unusual and innovative as the shells.   I saw photos of one double-decker London Transit bus that had been converted into a motorhome.  The owner had appointed the interior in the style of an 1800's private rail car, giving it a very unique kind of elegance and luxury.  I've seen Class B van conversions outfitted with acres of crushed velvet, yielding the appearance of a brothel on wheels.   Fisherman decorate their rigs with fishing memorabilia.   Hunters usually don't have room for large trophies, but like to turn their rigs into mobile hunting cabins, with lots of plaid upholstery and fur rugs.  Surfers remove cabinets and furniture to make room for their surf boards.

Over the years there have been many experimental motorhomes.  One I recall seeing had an innovative, clam-shell design built on  a Toyota  hatchback.  The top was split down the middle and hinged on each side just above the wheel wells.  When opened, there were twin beds on each side and when closed up the whole thing wasn't much bigger than a station wagon.  This one never made it into production.  I think buyers were more interested in bigger, self-contained units.  I've even seen some custom rigs built on a motorcycle and even on a bicycle!  The running gear for the motorized version was based on a tricycle style motorcycle and the body was reminiscent of meter-maid scooters.   Looked like the bed was a folding cot arrangement that would accommodate a full-size adult and it had lots of little cabinets and cubby holes for organizing gear.  I didn't get a chance to explore kitchen or sanitation facilities but I expect there wasn't much -- perhaps something along the lines of a teardrop trailer, if that.   However, some motorcycle-based units appear to be fully functional units resembling a Class C rig.  There have been variations of attachments for station wagons and SUVs that often include a "penthouse" bedroom on the roof.  Though not in any sense a motorhome, but a rather innovative vehicle for car camping, was the "sleeper seats" in AMC sedans (Hudsons and Nashes) in the late 1950s.  The front backrests folded down until they were level with the back and front seats, creating a wall-to-wall bed inside the car.  Toss a camp stove and an ice chest in the trunk and you could go -- and stay -- just about anywhere. They were surprisingly comfortable.  My family had one when my brother and I were teenagers and together with our Mom and Dad we spent several nights sleeping in the Hudson during a visit to Yellowstone Park.  The only discomfort I remember were the mosquitos.   We left the windows open a couple of inches for fresh air and the mosquitos were ferocious.   Inside the car they sounded like B-52's buzzing overhead!  We decided if we did that again we'd figure out a way to rig screens over the openings.  The very first "motorhome" I ever saw belonged to my Scoutmaster when I was a kid.   He had removed the bed from a pickup truck and mounted an old Shasta trailer on the back of the truck.  That must have been in the mid 1950s. My first factory built motorhome was a 1969 Ford Class B van conversion.  After I bought it I learned it had been custom built for an engineer who lived in it while working in the middle East.   The only modification to the original Ford "Supervan" body besides interior appointments was the addition of a pop-top so it had stand up head room in camp -- and a place for two extra beds (cots).  Its "furnace" was a tiny 4000 BTU propane heater, which I learned one winter in Chicago, didn't work when it was 20 below zero because the propane was too cold to vaporize.

Perhaps one of the most unique motorhomes every built was Charles Kellog's "Travel Log", hewn from a single redwood log and mounted on a Nash Quad truck chassis.  Completed in 1917, Charles hollowed out the log himself using an axe.   The finished motorhome had all the basic amenities of modern units sans the bathroom and shower.   He toured the entire United States several times in his one-of-a-kind vehicle.  Click here for more information about Charles Kellogg and his unique motorhome.

 And here is a home made motorhome built as a permanent yet portable residence:   Truck Castle.  Be sure to watch the whole video to see all of its many unique features. 

One of the first patented camping trailers was a tent trailer manufactured by The Campbell Folding Trailer Company.  The patent was applied for in 1914 and granted in 1916.   The Detroit Trailer Company supposedly built the first tent trailers in 1913 as options on their auto trailers.  The first mass-produced tent trailers were introduced in 1916 by the The Shattuck Trailer Company. Another offering from the same era was the Prarrie Schooner by A.P. Warner.  Both soft top and hard top folding camping trailers made their debut in 1916.

A 1913 Earl travel trailer is purported to be the oldest non-tent trailer RV.  It was built and named for and used by a Cal State University professor as his home on field trips.   It now resides in the Motorhome Hall of Fame, displayed along with a 1913 Model T convertible.

Tin Can Tourists is an organization dedicated to promoting and preserving vintage travel trailers and motor coaches. It is open to everyone. You don't even have to own an RV to participate.

I began my own affiliation with motorized camping in a 1951 Chevy Suburban.   It began its life as school district maintenance truck.  It still had the faded utility green school district paint and if you looked closely you could make out its district vehicle number where the decals has been removed on the doors.  My boys affectionately called it "The Big Green Truck".  When I got it the whole back end was empty.  It had the original bench seat in front and the open space in back was ready for customization for camping.  About the only semi-permanent modification was the addition of curtains all around to add a bit of privacy and climate control.  Sleeping accommodations at first consisted of a couple of sleeping bags.  Then I swiped a "bunky board" out of one of the kid's bunk beds and supported it on 2x4 slats that rested on the window frames to provide a "loft" for the kids to sleep on.  The "galley" was made up of a Coleman stove, and ice chest, a 3-gallon plastic water jug and a plastic dishpan.  Even as rudimentary as it was, it sure beat wrestling with a tent in the dark or the wind and was a lot warmer and drier when the weather turned bad.  Our next vehicle was a 1969 Ford Class B van conversion.  It had a pop top complete with cots for the kids, a rear dinette that made into a reasonably comfortable bed, a stove, a 120 volt/ 12volt refrigerator, and a tiny little 4000 BTU propane furnace.   We felt we were in the lap of luxury making ice cubes while driving down the road!   It was quite adequate, even comfortable, for our little family of four.  As the family grew, so did our RV needs and we upgraded to a 19' Travette Class C motorhome.  Wow!  Now we thought we really had it made.  It was nearly self contained though it lacked a generator.  Having a real bathroom and shower with hot water when camping was an extraordinary luxury for us at the time.  The 12-volt "swamp cooler" did its best to keep us cool, but often it seemed all it really did was increase the humidity.  I have a suspicion that part of the problem was that at frist we didn't know enough to leave a couple of windows open to allow proper air flow.  Eventually we graduated to Class A motorhomes with generators, roof A/C, and other advanced luxuries.  By then we were in camper heaven!

No history of motorhomes would be complete with mentioning the Classic GMC motorhome.   Manufactured in the 1970s, the were quite ahead of their time.  They were powered by a GM Tornado V-8 engine with front wheel drive.  They had a fairly low profile and center of gravity and the design was so futuristic they are still in style.  In fact, there are many of them still on the roads and there is a pretty good demand for them, with restored or renovated models bringing prices around $50,000!  Supposedly you can find fixer-uppers for about 1/10 that price, if you have the means and incentive to restore them yourself.

Of course if you want to really explore the history of mobile living spaces, you will have to include the covered wagons that carried the American Pioneers across the prairie and the horse drawn trailers built and used by the Romani "Gypsies" as living quarters in Europe since he early 19th century.

Make your own history!

Tent Camping Tips

Tent camping can be fun and inexpensive.   It provides one of the most basic back to nature fun experiences possible.   It can also be frustrating and uncomfortable if you aren't properly prepared or don't set up your tent right.   It isn't any fun if your tent collapses on you in the middle of the night or it leaks or rain runs underneath and soaks through!   

The first thing to do to ensure a comfortable stay is to buy the right tent and then learn hot to set it up properly.  I suggest you get one rated for 1 or 2 more people than will be sleeping in it.   I have found many tent experts who give the same advice.  That way you have some extra room for gear and for indoor activities other than sleeping, like getting dressed or just hanging out during bad weather.  However you may want to consider that a larger tent will be harder to keep warm so if you are planning to use it in cold weather.   Don't go overboard on going large!  

Next, learn how to set it up correctly.   I know this advice flies in the face of all the macho guys out there, but READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!  If nothing else, if they product was manufactured outside of the U.S.A., the English translation of the instructions can be quite entertaining.  The translations are often hilarious.  But on a more serious note, the manufacturer often provides tips that make setting up the tent a lot easier.  Sometimes it may not even be possible to set it up if you don't do it right.  Practice setting up your tent at home where you have a nice flat grassy lawn and plenty of time.  Pay close attention to the order in which steps occur.   Doing things out of sequence can make it difficult or sometimes even impossible to get your tent set up.  Pay attention to where you set your tent up.  You need fairly level ground, free of debris.  You also need clearance over and around the tent so it isn't in contact with branches that will make an annoying sound when the wind blows and could damage the tent.  When setting up under trees, watch out for "widow makers" -- dead or broken branches that could fall on you or your tent when the wind blows or a bear shakes the tree.  In winter watch out for snow accumulation the the trees.  Warmth from your body(s) in the tent and/or your campfire may cause snow in the branches to slip off and fall onto you and/or your tent.  Choose a spot that is as level as possible.  If you must set up on a slope, make sure you orient your tent and your sleeping bags so your feet are downhill.  If you try to sleep across the slope,  you'll roll downhill during the night.  If you sleep with your head downhill, you'll end up with stomach acid creeping up your throat as you sleep and that is definitely NOT pleasant!

Tents have been around in various forms for thousands of years.   Desert nomads have lived in them (and still do).  Armies have conquered the world in them.   Mountain climbers use them when scaling the highest and most dangerous peaks on earth.  Even though they are very portable and transient, they quickly become home to their occupants.  By making an informed choice of tents and then augmenting your choice with selected camping accessories you can customize your experience and truly make your tent your home.  There is no place like home -- even if its just a portable home for a few days now and then.  We all like to have some space we can call our own.   The shape, the color, and features (such as vestibules and awnings) may each contribute to your enjoyment of your tent, so don't be shy about shopping around or occasionally switching tents to suit your needs and your mood.  You might hang on to your old tent for a while in case you change your mind about the new one.  It may also become part of your emergency supplies or you might use it as a loaner when you invite non-camping friends to join you on an outing.  If you determine that you no longer have ANY use for your old tent, you can always put it in a garage sale or sell it via newspaper classifieds, or web sites like craigslist.com or ebay.com.  Speaking from personal experience, don't be too quick to dispose of any of  your old camping equipment.  Chances are as soon as you get rid of it a family member, friend, or neighbor -- or even you -- is going to need it.  Our kids convinced us to sell off a lot of camping equipment when we moved and some of them were back asking to borrow stuff less than a month later!

Truck and SUV tents connect to your vehicle and allow you to take advantage of some of the features of the vehicle.  By mounting to a vehicle they are usually a little more stable than tents on the ground.  Sometimes you can even use the vehicle heater to warm the tent and use interior lights for illumination.  Roof-top tents and truck tents get you up off the ground, away from ground moisture, uneven ground,and creepy-crawlies that may come looking for warmth or to feast on your tender body.

Tent floors.  Most modern tents have built in floors.  Simple pup tents, military "shelter halves", and some old style cabin tents do not.  Having a sewn in floor has several advantages.   For one, it helps the tent keep a defined footprint.  For another, it prevents breezes and insects and water from coming under the walls.  You will want to protect the floor by placing a suitable ground cloth (tarp) on the ground under your tent.  Make sure it doesn't stick out past the walls or it will collect run-off from rain or dew and channel it under your tent.   I like to use a second ground cloth inside my tent to provide additional protection.  A neat trick is to use interlocking 2' square foam floor tiles inside your tent.   That gives you a cushioned floor to walk or sleep on and insulates you from the cold ground.  It also protects the floor from getting damaged from walking on it. You can buy foam floor tiles at home centers.  Typically they are a dark gray color, but sometimes you can find other colors that would be more fun for camping.   A set of four in primary colors at Home Depot is about $18.00 - $24.00.  I've seen sales at Harbor Freight for as little as $4.99 for a set of 6!  They are usually used to cushion the floor in front of work benches where workers have to stand for long periods of time.  I use them in my enclosed motorcycle trailer in front of my workbench.  In addition to cushioning the floor, they absorb the shock from dropped tools or parts, reducing the potential for damaging both the floor and the dropped items.  You might use tarps and/or foam tiles as a floor in a cabin tent that doesn't have a built in floor.  You still need protection against ground moisture and any kind of floor will help keep your sleeping bags and other gear cleaner and drier.  A clean floor prevents getting debris in your socks, which can be very frustrating and irritating.  If your tent doesn't have a sewn-in floor (pup tents seldom do), use a tarp to protect you and your gear from dirt, moisture, and pests.

Tent pegs or stakes.  Tent pegs or stakes are available in different sizes, styles, and different materials.  Bright yellow plastic stakes are easy to see and light weight to carry.   Steel or aluminum stakes are very sturdy, but are heavier and sometimes get bent.  Some that are like big nails are especially good for driving into hard ground where those formed from sheet metal or made from plastic might bend or break.  Delta brand "dog leg" tent pegs are supposed to be extra secure.   They are designed so the more the guy rope or tent loop pulls on the anchor point, the more it forces the tip into the ground.   They are a little pricey, but probably well worth it.   For loose sandy soil I made my own giant tent pegs from 3/8" rebar.   I welded a washer to the top of each one and cut the bottom at an angle to give it a point to penetrate hard ground.  The extra length and the rough texture on the surface of the rebar helps anchor them in loose, sandy soil.  When it comes time to pull up stakes, I use a pry bar with an angled tip.   For round stakes, like my home-made rebar or the nail-like tent stakes, twisting them with a pair of pliers before pulling them often makes getting them out easier. You might add some inexpensive solar yard lights (check your "dollar" store) near each stake so you don't trip over them at night.  A tent stake pulling tool also comes in handy and eliminates a lot of bending over.  These tools have a hook on one end and a T-handle on the other so you can snare the peg with the hook and pull it out with bending way over.   Make sure you pull the peg straight out at the same angle the peg is in the ground.   If you pull it at a different angle it will be a lot harder and may bend or break the peg.  It is sometimes tempting to pull up the pegs by pulling on the tent fabric they are looped through. Avoid doing this as it is a good way to tear the loops loose or rip the tent.

Tent poles.  Dome tents usually have shock-corded poles that keep the pieces together and how the poles go together is usually obvious.   All you have to do is slip the assembled poles into the right sleeves on the tent.  Metal tent poles are often several separate pieces that have to be assembled. Sometimes they come color coded or marked with letters or numbers so you can tell what goes where.   If yours isn't marked, use a fine tip permanent Magic Marker to label them as you figure out where they go to make putting it together easier in the future.   If you have trouble with metal poles coming apart at the joints you might wrap each joint with a little duct tape or vinyl tape.  It will make disassembly harder, but it will keep things together while you erect and use your tent.  Self supporting tents (like dome tents) don't require guy ropes, but many other styles do.  Always use guy ropes for added safety with self-supporting tents.  Some ropes or cords come with cord locks.  If yours doesn't have them, use a taught-line hitch to connect the ropes to the stakes to make keeping them tight easier.  Another simple way of tying guy ropes so they can be easily adjusted is to bring the tail back from around the stake, wrap it around the rope and under itself as in the first step of a taught-line hitch, then just tie off the end further up the rope using an ordinary overhand knot.  To tighten the rope, pull the first loop to remove slack from the rope, then slide the knot up until the rope is tight between where it loops around itself and the knot.  Ropes and the stakes they are tied to often create a trip hazard.   You might want to tie some brightly colored pieces of ribbon or trail marking tape on the skinny little ropes to make them more visible.   I recently saw some glow in the dark rope to reduce tripping over the ropes at night.

Spare parts and repair kits are good to have on hand.  Stakes and poles get damaged or misplaced quite easily, so having some extras on hand can save the day.  Being able to patch minor damage when it occurs can help prevent it from getting worse.  I like to carry a pack of various colored nylon repair tape for fixing tents, sleeping bags, and apparel.   Some repair kits include extra netting for repairing screens and some sleeves for fixing broken shock-corded tent poles.  A roll of duct tape will always come in handy for tent repairs.  If nothing else works you can always splint a broken pole using a stick or piece of fire wood and duct tape.  You can sometimes repair small tears in the screens using Superglue or Goop glue.

Rain flies are a integral part of double wall tents.  Single wall tents can often benefit from a rain fly, tarp, or canopy to shield them from excess sun and rain.  If you plan to use your tent in cold or snowy weather, look for one with an extra long rain fly or sew a skirt to the bottom of the fly so it reaches almost all the way to the ground.   It will prevent snow from blowing up beneath the fly.  Dual wall tents often have screen segments for ventilation near the top.  A short fly might allow snow to blow up onto the vents and into the tent.

Choosing the right tent.  Having the right tent will make your outing more fun and more comfortable.  Having the wrong tent can be a real pain, sometimes quite literally, if you don't have room enough to stretch out or stand up.  Choosing the right tent means choosing the right tent for each set of circumstances.   If the number of people and where you go and what you do is consistent you can use the same tent over and over.   But if you have a differing number of people or different kinds of locations frequently, you may need different kinds of tents.  Having a tent that is too big just means you have more weight to carry and it takes up more room.  And it will be harder to keep it warm.  A really big cabin tent offers a lot of room, but having the right size dome tent will be a lot easier to transport and to set up and will be easier to keep warm on cool evenings.   Double wall tents (those with rain flies) are usually warmer in cold weather and cooler in warm weather.  Tents with built in vestibules and closets help you organize your gear and keep dirt and debris out of your tent.  I like having a canopy on the front of my tent to shade the entrance and provide a little shaded sitting space.  Pop-up tents are really easy to set up but can be difficult to get back into the bag.   Self standing tents work well on hard surfaces.  You will probably want to stake down any tent you erect on sand or other soft ground and you may need special stakes or special procedures (like a deadman anchor) in soft sand etc.  A deadman anchor is a large piece of wood, pipe, or rock buried in sand, snow, or soft ground to which you connect your guy ropes instead of hooking them to stakes that might easily pull loose.

You may need extra room in your tent -- or an extra tent -- to store your gear.   Having room for gear in the same tent you sleep in means you will have a larger volume to keep warm on cool nights, but it is convenient if you need something after you're retired for the night or before you are ready to go outside in the morning.  A separate tent for gear gives more flexibility and sometimes avoids unpleasant odors in your sleeping area and allows you to have less space to heat to keep YOU warm at night.

Tent lighting is important.  Most tents allow in enough light during the day or have windows or vents that admit light so you usually don't need artificial light except at night.  For nightime use the best choices are battery operated lights or glow sticks since there is little risk of fire.  Batteries will last longer if you use LED light bulbs.  Gas lanterns and candles are traditional sources of nighttime illumination, and often provide much desired heat on cold nights, but they can ignite even fire-retardant fabrics.  If you do choose to use gas lanterns or candles, exercise caution.  Most tents fabrics are treated to be fire retardant, but this will still melt or burn when it comes in direct contact with open flames or even the hot parts of a lantern or heater.  You must also be aware that flames consume oxygen and may give off toxic fumes so make sure you have adequate ventilation.  That means having at least two openings to the outside -- windows on opposite sides or a top vent and a low opening under the door, for example.  Your goal is to encourage cross ventilation to ensure removal of fumes and sale air and bring in fresh air for you to breath.  It may be tempting to close vents in cold weather, but ALWAYS leave a little room for ventilation if you're using any kind of combustion inside your tent.  When using candles it is a good idea to put them in a "candle lantern".  They are attractive lighting devices that offer some protection against a candle getting knocked over and starting a fire.  If you like arts and crafts you can probably make your own candle lanterns out of soup cans.  Just about anything that will contain a candle if it gets knocked over will help prevent a fire.

Temperature control is difficult in a tent.  A tent offers a surprising amount of protection against the elements, but it can only do so much.  Just keeping you out of the wind or sun  adds a lot of comfort and conserves a lot of heat.  However, even the heaviest canvas tent provides very little insulation to maintain a comfortable temperature inside.  Using a rain fly or covering your tent with a tarp will help keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Good cross ventilation goes along way toward reducing excess heat or moisture buildup from condensation inside a tent.  You might supplement natural ventilation with battery operated fans when it is warm.  If you need additional heat on cold nights, the heat from a Coleman lantern is sometimes enough.  If not, use a catalytic tent heater, but take care to follow the manufacturer's instructions for ignition and for ventilation during use.  It may seem a little at cross purposes to have to open windows when you're trying to warm up the interior, but ventilation is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY -- unless you want to get really sick or even die!  Some old-time solutions include using heated stones or potatoes to warm your sleeping bag and tent.  You can put them at your feet or tuck them into your armpits.  Just make sure they aren't TOO hot!  Wood burning tents stoves are sometimes used successfully in large canvas cabin-style tents, but you must exercise caution to avoid suffocating or catching your tent on fire.  Such stoves are usually not recommended for use in light weight nylon or other synthetic fabric tents.  Stoves must have a stovepipe to the outside, protected by a fire-proof "jack boot" where it passes through the tent fabric.  You might also need a heat shield between the stove and the tent wall.  And again, you must provide adequate ventilation to maintain a breathable atmosphere inside the tent as the fire consumes oxygen.

Tent up!

RV/OHV/Camping Risk Management

Like just about any other recreational activity, RVing, OHVing, and camping have a certain amount of risk.   But unless you are reckless or careless the risks shouldn't be any higher than most other leisure time pursuits.   In fact, the statistical probability of being injured jogging is probably higher than getting hurt riding your OHV if you are wearing proper personal protective equipment and riding reasonably and responsibly.  That having been said, you must still exercise a certain amount of common sense.

I have been accused of being a "risk taker" for riding dirt bikes.  What my accusers don't realize is that, statistically, the biggest danger I faced going dirt biking was driving on the southern California freeways to get there -- a risk they shared going to the mall!  Admittedly there is some chance of injury operating any off-highway vehicle.  But there is also some chance of injury playing golf or tennis or bowling.   Same with running, playing basketball, or football or just working out at the gym.  In fact, the frequency and severity of recreational football injuries is far greater than those of dirt biking.

There is risk in almost everything we do.  The key to safety is in managing the risk.   I use what I egotistically call "Lemont's Law":  If either the probability of an undesirable outcome is high or the consequences of a negative outcome are unacceptable, I avoid the activity.  In other words, if it is highly likely you will be injured or break something or if the kind of injuries or damage you might get are severe regardless of the probability, back off!  Don't do something you know is going to hurt you and don't do something if the negative consequences are unacceptable, even if the probability of a bad outcome is fairly low.

That doesn't mean you have to forgo the fun stuff.  Just make sure you and your equipment are up to it.  I often counseled my sometimes over-eager teen riders to back off just 1/2 of one percent.   I observed that it was often that little extra push that carried them into dangerous territory.   My oldest son finally realized that when you reached the "just one more jump" or "just one more hill climb" point in an outing, it was time to pack it up and go home -- BEFORE that "one more".  That last attempt was often the source of most expensive accidents and extensive and painful injuries.   I recall one such "last hill climb" where he made it almost all the way to the top, then flipped his brand new KX250 and it landed on its right side on the rocks with very disappointing and expensive consequences. Fortunately he was not seriously hurt, except his pride and his wallet.   That might have been the event that finally convinced him that it was time to go home before doing "just one more".

The perception of risk is often colored by prejudice for or against a particular activity.   For example, California passed a motorcycle helmet law a few years ago, largely based on distorted cost of motorcycle accidents to California taxpayers as reported by the legislative sponsor of the law (he later admitted his bloated figures included the cost of ALL motor vehicle accidents).  Yet, even though the rate for head injuries for equestrian accidents is much higher than for motorcycle accidents, there has been no public outcry for an equestrian helmet law.  The public perceives riding a motorcycle as inherently more dangerous than riding a horse.  Unfortunately, a lot of people practice the concept "Don't confuse me with the facts, my mind is made up."  I was amused when a group of street motorcycle riders gathered at Los Angeles City Hall to protest a previous proposed helmet law.  About 1200 riders showed up, ALL wearing helmets!  Wearing a helmet is just common sense, but they felt it should be their choice.

Many activities associated with camping and RVing have a certain amount of risk.  Campfires are probably one of the most common causes of injuries among campers.   But the only time campfires are outlawed is during fire restrictions which have nothing to do with risk of immediate personal injury.  Campfire accidents include grabbing a hot pan with bare hands, falling into the fire, catching clothing on fire, being burned by embers ejected from the fire, and burning or otherwise injuring bystanders with marshmallow and hot dog cookers.   As campers we (usually) successfully manage the risks of a campfire by following proper safety procedures.   Fishing is another very popular pastime, yet it is also fraught with danger.  Hunters sometimes shoot each other.  Fisherman have drowned when they fell into a stream or lake or fell off of a boat.  They have injured themselves or bystanders with errant fish hooks.  Hikers all too frequently sprain or break an ankle.  Bird watchers have fallen out of trees.  Most of these accidents are preventable just using sense and by using proper safety equipment and following appropriate safety procedures. 

Some people see boondocking or even staying in a campground as inherently risky.  As a result come campers choose to arm themselves with pepper spray or even firearms.  If you feel the need to arm yourself, make sure you get proper training and licensing and check local laws and regulations.  We boondocked in the Mojave Desert every holiday weekend for almost 30 years without any problems with crime or feeling unsafe.

Managing the risk of camping, RV, and OHV activities is mostly a matter of applying some common sense.  Unfortunately, it seems there is nothing quite so rare as common sense.  First of all, choose activities that are suitable for your physical condition and avoid things that might aggravate an existing injury or weakness.  Second, wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) when participating in physical activities.   Third, learn how to do what you're trying to do.   There is a right way (a safer way) for hiking, hunting, fishing, hunting, horseback riding, OHV riding, camping, and RVing.  Fourth, recognize your limits.   Professional drivers, motocrossers, and water skiers can do things that are WAY beyond the skill of most people, but seeing them in movies and on TV, people try it anyway, in spite of the "don't try this at home" warnings that usually accompany dangerous professional performances.  If you really want to perform some of those outrageous stunts take the time to learn how to to them right and to build up your skills so you can do them safely.  If possible, find someone with enough expertise in performing the stunt to be able to teach and coach  you how to learn  how to do it safely.

As Rocky Balboa says: "Not so bad!"