Blog Policy on Endorsements

In some places in this blog I have openly endorsed certain companies and certain products and even included links to relevant web sites.  Sometimes I provide a link to a product as an example.  In such cases please do not construe that as an endorsement of the specific brand although I wouldn't be including them if I didn't find them personally acceptable.  I have received no compensation for these links or endorsements.  I list them because I have had good experiences with the products and/or the company.   I receive no compensation from guest contributors either.   I carefully consider any submissions to be sure they fit the overall purpose of this blog and provide readers with valuable information.  While I allow guest contributors to post links to their own websites and products, I try to make sure all such postings are compatible with my endorsement policy.   I will not accept blatant brochures that have no intrinsic value to my readers -- they must at the very least pose a reasonable source or solution to issues.

Most consumers are quick to complain when they receive poor service and slow to take action when things go well.   It is a natural human response. However, in this blog, I strive not to bad mouth any product or company.  If there are specific product failures or defects, I may report them.  I have made and will continue to make special mention of products and companies that exceed expectations.  They deserve some positive attention.   All too often in today's very impersonal commercial world individual customers get lost in the numbers and statistics. Those companies who respect their customers and stand behind their products are worthy of special mention.  I believe doing so not only benefits the companies but provides a valuable service to my readers.  I know I would certainly be more comfortable knowing a product or a company had received a good review and was recommended by someone knowledgeable that I could trust.  I strive to be that someone for my readers.

So, when you see links to product web sites within my articles, they are not paid advertisements.  I provide the links for information purposes and to aid my readers in researching products I have reported on. You won't see Internet ads on my blog since I would not be able to control the quality or relevance of the material.

My endorsements are unbiased, except by my personal opinion of the product, service, or company.

History of Motorhomes & RVs

How long have motorhomes been around?  I guess that depends on whether you're talking about home made rigs or factory built jobs.  People started making modifications to cars and trucks, creating "housecars" almost as soon as motor vehicles were introduced.  Supposedly the first motorized factory RV was Pierce-Arrow’s Touring Landau, which debuted at Madison Square Garden in 1910.  The Landau had a back seat that folded into a bed, a chamber pot toilet and a sink that folded down from the back of the seat of the chauffeur, who was connected to his passengers via telephone.  The Motorhome Hall of Fame Museum includes a 1915 Model T Ford with a 1916 "Telescope Apartment" and Mae West's 1931 motorhome, so custom made variations have been around a long time.  Ray Frank is credited as being the father of the class A and with coining the term "motorhome", and built his first motorhome in 1953.  His company, Winnebago, began their famous production motorhome line in 1966. They did so well that for many years "Winnebago" was (and often still is) synonymous with "motorhome".   If you search the Internet you'll find all kinds of home-made motorhomes, some that look like Lil Abner's shack mounted on a flatbed truck, some made from old school buses, some luxury Class As built on Greyound and Prevost bus chassis, and even some made from double decker London transit buses.  The variations are endless.  One I saw, that I guess could be called a Class B motorhome, was made from a Volkswagen van and used the body of a Volkswagen "bug" as an extended top.   Kind of clever, but very strange looking.  I assume the extra set of headlights on the bug were not for highway use.  Similarly, there is a "Super C", built on a heavy duty truck chassis that uses an entire VW bus as a "bubble top".

For a look at some really creative "motorhomes" see Old and Unusual Motorhomes.  (Sorry, this link seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

Here are some more odd RV photos Malia Smiles Unique and Strange RVs. (Sorry, this link also seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

And here are seven more Strange RVs for your amusement.  (Sorry, this link also seems to have been disabled but I'm leaving it here in case they fix it.)

Wow!  I'm batting 1000 on lost pages!  Too bad they're gone.  There were some really neat and unusual motorhomes on those sites.  

Check out these unique motorhomes, from Caddys to VWs. (This one still worked when I checked it 12/07/2020).


How about this Castle Truck?

I guess YOU are the motor for these "motor" homes: Bicycle Motorhomes. I sure wouldn't want to pedal one of those up any hills! If you look closely at the pictures you'll even see a shopping cart tent trailer!

Here are some more unusual RVS.   There is no limit to the imaginative creations people come up with.

And the list goes on with these weird campers.  The first one in the list is the previously mentioned Super C with the VW bus as a bubble top.  And be sure to scroll down far enough to see the Wothahellizat.

Think slide-outs are a modern invention? The 1915 Model T with Telescope Apartment mentioned above had multiple slide-out compartments, including the main telescoping section.

The interior treatments can be just as unusual and innovative as the shells.   I saw photos of one double-decker London Transit bus that had been converted into a motorhome.  The owner had appointed the interior in the style of an 1800's private rail car, giving it a very unique kind of elegance and luxury.  I've seen Class B van conversions outfitted with acres of crushed velvet, yielding the appearance of a brothel on wheels.   Fisherman decorate their rigs with fishing memorabilia.   Hunters usually don't have room for large trophies, but like to turn their rigs into mobile hunting cabins, with lots of plaid upholstery and fur rugs.  Surfers remove cabinets and furniture to make room for their surf boards.

Over the years there have been many experimental motorhomes.  One I recall seeing had an innovative, clam-shell design built on  a Toyota  hatchback.  The top was split down the middle and hinged on each side just above the wheel wells.  When opened, there were twin beds on each side and when closed up the whole thing wasn't much bigger than a station wagon.  This one never made it into production.  I think buyers were more interested in bigger, self-contained units.  I've even seen some custom rigs built on a motorcycle and even on a bicycle!  The running gear for the motorized version was based on a tricycle style motorcycle and the body was reminiscent of meter-maid scooters.   Looked like the bed was a folding cot arrangement that would accommodate a full-size adult and it had lots of little cabinets and cubby holes for organizing gear.  I didn't get a chance to explore kitchen or sanitation facilities but I expect there wasn't much -- perhaps something along the lines of a teardrop trailer, if that.   However, some motorcycle-based units appear to be fully functional units resembling a Class C rig.  There have been variations of attachments for station wagons and SUVs that often include a "penthouse" bedroom on the roof.  Though not in any sense a motorhome, but a rather innovative vehicle for car camping, was the "sleeper seats" in AMC sedans (Hudsons and Nashes) in the late 1950s.  The front backrests folded down until they were level with the back and front seats, creating a wall-to-wall bed inside the car.  Toss a camp stove and an ice chest in the trunk and you could go -- and stay -- just about anywhere. They were surprisingly comfortable.  My family had one when my brother and I were teenagers and together with our Mom and Dad we spent several nights sleeping in the Hudson during a visit to Yellowstone Park.  The only discomfort I remember were the mosquitos.   We left the windows open a couple of inches for fresh air and the mosquitos were ferocious.   Inside the car they sounded like B-52's buzzing overhead!  We decided if we did that again we'd figure out a way to rig screens over the openings.  The very first "motorhome" I ever saw belonged to my Scoutmaster when I was a kid.   He had removed the bed from a pickup truck and mounted an old Shasta trailer on the back of the truck.  That must have been in the mid 1950s. My first factory built motorhome was a 1969 Ford Class B van conversion.  After I bought it I learned it had been custom built for an engineer who lived in it while working in the middle East.   The only modification to the original Ford "Supervan" body besides interior appointments was the addition of a pop-top so it had stand up head room in camp -- and a place for two extra beds (cots).  Its "furnace" was a tiny 4000 BTU propane heater, which I learned one winter in Chicago, didn't work when it was 20 below zero because the propane was too cold to vaporize.

Perhaps one of the most unique motorhomes every built was Charles Kellog's "Travel Log", hewn from a single redwood log and mounted on a Nash Quad truck chassis.  Completed in 1917, Charles hollowed out the log himself using an axe.   The finished motorhome had all the basic amenities of modern units sans the bathroom and shower.   He toured the entire United States several times in his one-of-a-kind vehicle.  Click here for more information about Charles Kellogg and his unique motorhome.

 And here is a home made motorhome built as a permanent yet portable residence:   Truck Castle.  Be sure to watch the whole video to see all of its many unique features. 

One of the first patented camping trailers was a tent trailer manufactured by The Campbell Folding Trailer Company.  The patent was applied for in 1914 and granted in 1916.   The Detroit Trailer Company supposedly built the first tent trailers in 1913 as options on their auto trailers.  The first mass-produced tent trailers were introduced in 1916 by the The Shattuck Trailer Company. Another offering from the same era was the Prarrie Schooner by A.P. Warner.  Both soft top and hard top folding camping trailers made their debut in 1916.

A 1913 Earl travel trailer is purported to be the oldest non-tent trailer RV.  It was built and named for and used by a Cal State University professor as his home on field trips.   It now resides in the Motorhome Hall of Fame, displayed along with a 1913 Model T convertible.

Tin Can Tourists is an organization dedicated to promoting and preserving vintage travel trailers and motor coaches. It is open to everyone. You don't even have to own an RV to participate.

I began my own affiliation with motorized camping in a 1951 Chevy Suburban.   It began its life as school district maintenance truck.  It still had the faded utility green school district paint and if you looked closely you could make out its district vehicle number where the decals has been removed on the doors.  My boys affectionately called it "The Big Green Truck".  When I got it the whole back end was empty.  It had the original bench seat in front and the open space in back was ready for customization for camping.  About the only semi-permanent modification was the addition of curtains all around to add a bit of privacy and climate control.  Sleeping accommodations at first consisted of a couple of sleeping bags.  Then I swiped a "bunky board" out of one of the kid's bunk beds and supported it on 2x4 slats that rested on the window frames to provide a "loft" for the kids to sleep on.  The "galley" was made up of a Coleman stove, and ice chest, a 3-gallon plastic water jug and a plastic dishpan.  Even as rudimentary as it was, it sure beat wrestling with a tent in the dark or the wind and was a lot warmer and drier when the weather turned bad.  Our next vehicle was a 1969 Ford Class B van conversion.  It had a pop top complete with cots for the kids, a rear dinette that made into a reasonably comfortable bed, a stove, a 120 volt/ 12volt refrigerator, and a tiny little 4000 BTU propane furnace.   We felt we were in the lap of luxury making ice cubes while driving down the road!   It was quite adequate, even comfortable, for our little family of four.  As the family grew, so did our RV needs and we upgraded to a 19' Travette Class C motorhome.  Wow!  Now we thought we really had it made.  It was nearly self contained though it lacked a generator.  Having a real bathroom and shower with hot water when camping was an extraordinary luxury for us at the time.  The 12-volt "swamp cooler" did its best to keep us cool, but often it seemed all it really did was increase the humidity.  I have a suspicion that part of the problem was that at frist we didn't know enough to leave a couple of windows open to allow proper air flow.  Eventually we graduated to Class A motorhomes with generators, roof A/C, and other advanced luxuries.  By then we were in camper heaven!

No history of motorhomes would be complete with mentioning the Classic GMC motorhome.   Manufactured in the 1970s, the were quite ahead of their time.  They were powered by a GM Tornado V-8 engine with front wheel drive.  They had a fairly low profile and center of gravity and the design was so futuristic they are still in style.  In fact, there are many of them still on the roads and there is a pretty good demand for them, with restored or renovated models bringing prices around $50,000!  Supposedly you can find fixer-uppers for about 1/10 that price, if you have the means and incentive to restore them yourself.

Of course if you want to really explore the history of mobile living spaces, you will have to include the covered wagons that carried the American Pioneers across the prairie and the horse drawn trailers built and used by the Romani "Gypsies" as living quarters in Europe since he early 19th century.

Make your own history!

Tent Camping Tips

Tent camping can be fun and inexpensive.   It provides one of the most basic back to nature fun experiences possible.   It can also be frustrating and uncomfortable if you aren't properly prepared or don't set up your tent right.   It isn't any fun if your tent collapses on you in the middle of the night or it leaks or rain runs underneath and soaks through!   

The first thing to do to ensure a comfortable stay is to buy the right tent and then learn hot to set it up properly.  I suggest you get one rated for 1 or 2 more people than will be sleeping in it.   I have found many tent experts who give the same advice.  That way you have some extra room for gear and for indoor activities other than sleeping, like getting dressed or just hanging out during bad weather.  However you may want to consider that a larger tent will be harder to keep warm so if you are planning to use it in cold weather.   Don't go overboard on going large!  

Next, learn how to set it up correctly.   I know this advice flies in the face of all the macho guys out there, but READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!  If nothing else, if they product was manufactured outside of the U.S.A., the English translation of the instructions can be quite entertaining.  The translations are often hilarious.  But on a more serious note, the manufacturer often provides tips that make setting up the tent a lot easier.  Sometimes it may not even be possible to set it up if you don't do it right.  Practice setting up your tent at home where you have a nice flat grassy lawn and plenty of time.  Pay close attention to the order in which steps occur.   Doing things out of sequence can make it difficult or sometimes even impossible to get your tent set up.  Pay attention to where you set your tent up.  You need fairly level ground, free of debris.  You also need clearance over and around the tent so it isn't in contact with branches that will make an annoying sound when the wind blows and could damage the tent.  When setting up under trees, watch out for "widow makers" -- dead or broken branches that could fall on you or your tent when the wind blows or a bear shakes the tree.  In winter watch out for snow accumulation the the trees.  Warmth from your body(s) in the tent and/or your campfire may cause snow in the branches to slip off and fall onto you and/or your tent.  Choose a spot that is as level as possible.  If you must set up on a slope, make sure you orient your tent and your sleeping bags so your feet are downhill.  If you try to sleep across the slope,  you'll roll downhill during the night.  If you sleep with your head downhill, you'll end up with stomach acid creeping up your throat as you sleep and that is definitely NOT pleasant!

Tents have been around in various forms for thousands of years.   Desert nomads have lived in them (and still do).  Armies have conquered the world in them.   Mountain climbers use them when scaling the highest and most dangerous peaks on earth.  Even though they are very portable and transient, they quickly become home to their occupants.  By making an informed choice of tents and then augmenting your choice with selected camping accessories you can customize your experience and truly make your tent your home.  There is no place like home -- even if its just a portable home for a few days now and then.  We all like to have some space we can call our own.   The shape, the color, and features (such as vestibules and awnings) may each contribute to your enjoyment of your tent, so don't be shy about shopping around or occasionally switching tents to suit your needs and your mood.  You might hang on to your old tent for a while in case you change your mind about the new one.  It may also become part of your emergency supplies or you might use it as a loaner when you invite non-camping friends to join you on an outing.  If you determine that you no longer have ANY use for your old tent, you can always put it in a garage sale or sell it via newspaper classifieds, or web sites like craigslist.com or ebay.com.  Speaking from personal experience, don't be too quick to dispose of any of  your old camping equipment.  Chances are as soon as you get rid of it a family member, friend, or neighbor -- or even you -- is going to need it.  Our kids convinced us to sell off a lot of camping equipment when we moved and some of them were back asking to borrow stuff less than a month later!

Truck and SUV tents connect to your vehicle and allow you to take advantage of some of the features of the vehicle.  By mounting to a vehicle they are usually a little more stable than tents on the ground.  Sometimes you can even use the vehicle heater to warm the tent and use interior lights for illumination.  Roof-top tents and truck tents get you up off the ground, away from ground moisture, uneven ground,and creepy-crawlies that may come looking for warmth or to feast on your tender body.

Tent floors.  Most modern tents have built in floors.  Simple pup tents, military "shelter halves", and some old style cabin tents do not.  Having a sewn in floor has several advantages.   For one, it helps the tent keep a defined footprint.  For another, it prevents breezes and insects and water from coming under the walls.  You will want to protect the floor by placing a suitable ground cloth (tarp) on the ground under your tent.  Make sure it doesn't stick out past the walls or it will collect run-off from rain or dew and channel it under your tent.   I like to use a second ground cloth inside my tent to provide additional protection.  A neat trick is to use interlocking 2' square foam floor tiles inside your tent.   That gives you a cushioned floor to walk or sleep on and insulates you from the cold ground.  It also protects the floor from getting damaged from walking on it. You can buy foam floor tiles at home centers.  Typically they are a dark gray color, but sometimes you can find other colors that would be more fun for camping.   A set of four in primary colors at Home Depot is about $18.00 - $24.00.  I've seen sales at Harbor Freight for as little as $4.99 for a set of 6!  They are usually used to cushion the floor in front of work benches where workers have to stand for long periods of time.  I use them in my enclosed motorcycle trailer in front of my workbench.  In addition to cushioning the floor, they absorb the shock from dropped tools or parts, reducing the potential for damaging both the floor and the dropped items.  You might use tarps and/or foam tiles as a floor in a cabin tent that doesn't have a built in floor.  You still need protection against ground moisture and any kind of floor will help keep your sleeping bags and other gear cleaner and drier.  A clean floor prevents getting debris in your socks, which can be very frustrating and irritating.  If your tent doesn't have a sewn-in floor (pup tents seldom do), use a tarp to protect you and your gear from dirt, moisture, and pests.

Tent pegs or stakes.  Tent pegs or stakes are available in different sizes, styles, and different materials.  Bright yellow plastic stakes are easy to see and light weight to carry.   Steel or aluminum stakes are very sturdy, but are heavier and sometimes get bent.  Some that are like big nails are especially good for driving into hard ground where those formed from sheet metal or made from plastic might bend or break.  Delta brand "dog leg" tent pegs are supposed to be extra secure.   They are designed so the more the guy rope or tent loop pulls on the anchor point, the more it forces the tip into the ground.   They are a little pricey, but probably well worth it.   For loose sandy soil I made my own giant tent pegs from 3/8" rebar.   I welded a washer to the top of each one and cut the bottom at an angle to give it a point to penetrate hard ground.  The extra length and the rough texture on the surface of the rebar helps anchor them in loose, sandy soil.  When it comes time to pull up stakes, I use a pry bar with an angled tip.   For round stakes, like my home-made rebar or the nail-like tent stakes, twisting them with a pair of pliers before pulling them often makes getting them out easier. You might add some inexpensive solar yard lights (check your "dollar" store) near each stake so you don't trip over them at night.  A tent stake pulling tool also comes in handy and eliminates a lot of bending over.  These tools have a hook on one end and a T-handle on the other so you can snare the peg with the hook and pull it out with bending way over.   Make sure you pull the peg straight out at the same angle the peg is in the ground.   If you pull it at a different angle it will be a lot harder and may bend or break the peg.  It is sometimes tempting to pull up the pegs by pulling on the tent fabric they are looped through. Avoid doing this as it is a good way to tear the loops loose or rip the tent.

Tent poles.  Dome tents usually have shock-corded poles that keep the pieces together and how the poles go together is usually obvious.   All you have to do is slip the assembled poles into the right sleeves on the tent.  Metal tent poles are often several separate pieces that have to be assembled. Sometimes they come color coded or marked with letters or numbers so you can tell what goes where.   If yours isn't marked, use a fine tip permanent Magic Marker to label them as you figure out where they go to make putting it together easier in the future.   If you have trouble with metal poles coming apart at the joints you might wrap each joint with a little duct tape or vinyl tape.  It will make disassembly harder, but it will keep things together while you erect and use your tent.  Self supporting tents (like dome tents) don't require guy ropes, but many other styles do.  Always use guy ropes for added safety with self-supporting tents.  Some ropes or cords come with cord locks.  If yours doesn't have them, use a taught-line hitch to connect the ropes to the stakes to make keeping them tight easier.  Another simple way of tying guy ropes so they can be easily adjusted is to bring the tail back from around the stake, wrap it around the rope and under itself as in the first step of a taught-line hitch, then just tie off the end further up the rope using an ordinary overhand knot.  To tighten the rope, pull the first loop to remove slack from the rope, then slide the knot up until the rope is tight between where it loops around itself and the knot.  Ropes and the stakes they are tied to often create a trip hazard.   You might want to tie some brightly colored pieces of ribbon or trail marking tape on the skinny little ropes to make them more visible.   I recently saw some glow in the dark rope to reduce tripping over the ropes at night.

Spare parts and repair kits are good to have on hand.  Stakes and poles get damaged or misplaced quite easily, so having some extras on hand can save the day.  Being able to patch minor damage when it occurs can help prevent it from getting worse.  I like to carry a pack of various colored nylon repair tape for fixing tents, sleeping bags, and apparel.   Some repair kits include extra netting for repairing screens and some sleeves for fixing broken shock-corded tent poles.  A roll of duct tape will always come in handy for tent repairs.  If nothing else works you can always splint a broken pole using a stick or piece of fire wood and duct tape.  You can sometimes repair small tears in the screens using Superglue or Goop glue.

Rain flies are a integral part of double wall tents.  Single wall tents can often benefit from a rain fly, tarp, or canopy to shield them from excess sun and rain.  If you plan to use your tent in cold or snowy weather, look for one with an extra long rain fly or sew a skirt to the bottom of the fly so it reaches almost all the way to the ground.   It will prevent snow from blowing up beneath the fly.  Dual wall tents often have screen segments for ventilation near the top.  A short fly might allow snow to blow up onto the vents and into the tent.

Choosing the right tent.  Having the right tent will make your outing more fun and more comfortable.  Having the wrong tent can be a real pain, sometimes quite literally, if you don't have room enough to stretch out or stand up.  Choosing the right tent means choosing the right tent for each set of circumstances.   If the number of people and where you go and what you do is consistent you can use the same tent over and over.   But if you have a differing number of people or different kinds of locations frequently, you may need different kinds of tents.  Having a tent that is too big just means you have more weight to carry and it takes up more room.  And it will be harder to keep it warm.  A really big cabin tent offers a lot of room, but having the right size dome tent will be a lot easier to transport and to set up and will be easier to keep warm on cool evenings.   Double wall tents (those with rain flies) are usually warmer in cold weather and cooler in warm weather.  Tents with built in vestibules and closets help you organize your gear and keep dirt and debris out of your tent.  I like having a canopy on the front of my tent to shade the entrance and provide a little shaded sitting space.  Pop-up tents are really easy to set up but can be difficult to get back into the bag.   Self standing tents work well on hard surfaces.  You will probably want to stake down any tent you erect on sand or other soft ground and you may need special stakes or special procedures (like a deadman anchor) in soft sand etc.  A deadman anchor is a large piece of wood, pipe, or rock buried in sand, snow, or soft ground to which you connect your guy ropes instead of hooking them to stakes that might easily pull loose.

You may need extra room in your tent -- or an extra tent -- to store your gear.   Having room for gear in the same tent you sleep in means you will have a larger volume to keep warm on cool nights, but it is convenient if you need something after you're retired for the night or before you are ready to go outside in the morning.  A separate tent for gear gives more flexibility and sometimes avoids unpleasant odors in your sleeping area and allows you to have less space to heat to keep YOU warm at night.

Tent lighting is important.  Most tents allow in enough light during the day or have windows or vents that admit light so you usually don't need artificial light except at night.  For nightime use the best choices are battery operated lights or glow sticks since there is little risk of fire.  Batteries will last longer if you use LED light bulbs.  Gas lanterns and candles are traditional sources of nighttime illumination, and often provide much desired heat on cold nights, but they can ignite even fire-retardant fabrics.  If you do choose to use gas lanterns or candles, exercise caution.  Most tents fabrics are treated to be fire retardant, but this will still melt or burn when it comes in direct contact with open flames or even the hot parts of a lantern or heater.  You must also be aware that flames consume oxygen and may give off toxic fumes so make sure you have adequate ventilation.  That means having at least two openings to the outside -- windows on opposite sides or a top vent and a low opening under the door, for example.  Your goal is to encourage cross ventilation to ensure removal of fumes and sale air and bring in fresh air for you to breath.  It may be tempting to close vents in cold weather, but ALWAYS leave a little room for ventilation if you're using any kind of combustion inside your tent.  When using candles it is a good idea to put them in a "candle lantern".  They are attractive lighting devices that offer some protection against a candle getting knocked over and starting a fire.  If you like arts and crafts you can probably make your own candle lanterns out of soup cans.  Just about anything that will contain a candle if it gets knocked over will help prevent a fire.

Temperature control is difficult in a tent.  A tent offers a surprising amount of protection against the elements, but it can only do so much.  Just keeping you out of the wind or sun  adds a lot of comfort and conserves a lot of heat.  However, even the heaviest canvas tent provides very little insulation to maintain a comfortable temperature inside.  Using a rain fly or covering your tent with a tarp will help keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Good cross ventilation goes along way toward reducing excess heat or moisture buildup from condensation inside a tent.  You might supplement natural ventilation with battery operated fans when it is warm.  If you need additional heat on cold nights, the heat from a Coleman lantern is sometimes enough.  If not, use a catalytic tent heater, but take care to follow the manufacturer's instructions for ignition and for ventilation during use.  It may seem a little at cross purposes to have to open windows when you're trying to warm up the interior, but ventilation is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY -- unless you want to get really sick or even die!  Some old-time solutions include using heated stones or potatoes to warm your sleeping bag and tent.  You can put them at your feet or tuck them into your armpits.  Just make sure they aren't TOO hot!  Wood burning tents stoves are sometimes used successfully in large canvas cabin-style tents, but you must exercise caution to avoid suffocating or catching your tent on fire.  Such stoves are usually not recommended for use in light weight nylon or other synthetic fabric tents.  Stoves must have a stovepipe to the outside, protected by a fire-proof "jack boot" where it passes through the tent fabric.  You might also need a heat shield between the stove and the tent wall.  And again, you must provide adequate ventilation to maintain a breathable atmosphere inside the tent as the fire consumes oxygen.

Tent up!

RV/OHV/Camping Risk Management

Like just about any other recreational activity, RVing, OHVing, and camping have a certain amount of risk.   But unless you are reckless or careless the risks shouldn't be any higher than most other leisure time pursuits.   In fact, the statistical probability of being injured jogging is probably higher than getting hurt riding your OHV if you are wearing proper personal protective equipment and riding reasonably and responsibly.  That having been said, you must still exercise a certain amount of common sense.

I have been accused of being a "risk taker" for riding dirt bikes.  What my accusers don't realize is that, statistically, the biggest danger I faced going dirt biking was driving on the southern California freeways to get there -- a risk they shared going to the mall!  Admittedly there is some chance of injury operating any off-highway vehicle.  But there is also some chance of injury playing golf or tennis or bowling.   Same with running, playing basketball, or football or just working out at the gym.  In fact, the frequency and severity of recreational football injuries is far greater than those of dirt biking.

There is risk in almost everything we do.  The key to safety is in managing the risk.   I use what I egotistically call "Lemont's Law":  If either the probability of an undesirable outcome is high or the consequences of a negative outcome are unacceptable, I avoid the activity.  In other words, if it is highly likely you will be injured or break something or if the kind of injuries or damage you might get are severe regardless of the probability, back off!  Don't do something you know is going to hurt you and don't do something if the negative consequences are unacceptable, even if the probability of a bad outcome is fairly low.

That doesn't mean you have to forgo the fun stuff.  Just make sure you and your equipment are up to it.  I often counseled my sometimes over-eager teen riders to back off just 1/2 of one percent.   I observed that it was often that little extra push that carried them into dangerous territory.   My oldest son finally realized that when you reached the "just one more jump" or "just one more hill climb" point in an outing, it was time to pack it up and go home -- BEFORE that "one more".  That last attempt was often the source of most expensive accidents and extensive and painful injuries.   I recall one such "last hill climb" where he made it almost all the way to the top, then flipped his brand new KX250 and it landed on its right side on the rocks with very disappointing and expensive consequences. Fortunately he was not seriously hurt, except his pride and his wallet.   That might have been the event that finally convinced him that it was time to go home before doing "just one more".

The perception of risk is often colored by prejudice for or against a particular activity.   For example, California passed a motorcycle helmet law a few years ago, largely based on distorted cost of motorcycle accidents to California taxpayers as reported by the legislative sponsor of the law (he later admitted his bloated figures included the cost of ALL motor vehicle accidents).  Yet, even though the rate for head injuries for equestrian accidents is much higher than for motorcycle accidents, there has been no public outcry for an equestrian helmet law.  The public perceives riding a motorcycle as inherently more dangerous than riding a horse.  Unfortunately, a lot of people practice the concept "Don't confuse me with the facts, my mind is made up."  I was amused when a group of street motorcycle riders gathered at Los Angeles City Hall to protest a previous proposed helmet law.  About 1200 riders showed up, ALL wearing helmets!  Wearing a helmet is just common sense, but they felt it should be their choice.

Many activities associated with camping and RVing have a certain amount of risk.  Campfires are probably one of the most common causes of injuries among campers.   But the only time campfires are outlawed is during fire restrictions which have nothing to do with risk of immediate personal injury.  Campfire accidents include grabbing a hot pan with bare hands, falling into the fire, catching clothing on fire, being burned by embers ejected from the fire, and burning or otherwise injuring bystanders with marshmallow and hot dog cookers.   As campers we (usually) successfully manage the risks of a campfire by following proper safety procedures.   Fishing is another very popular pastime, yet it is also fraught with danger.  Hunters sometimes shoot each other.  Fisherman have drowned when they fell into a stream or lake or fell off of a boat.  They have injured themselves or bystanders with errant fish hooks.  Hikers all too frequently sprain or break an ankle.  Bird watchers have fallen out of trees.  Most of these accidents are preventable just using sense and by using proper safety equipment and following appropriate safety procedures. 

Some people see boondocking or even staying in a campground as inherently risky.  As a result come campers choose to arm themselves with pepper spray or even firearms.  If you feel the need to arm yourself, make sure you get proper training and licensing and check local laws and regulations.  We boondocked in the Mojave Desert every holiday weekend for almost 30 years without any problems with crime or feeling unsafe.

Managing the risk of camping, RV, and OHV activities is mostly a matter of applying some common sense.  Unfortunately, it seems there is nothing quite so rare as common sense.  First of all, choose activities that are suitable for your physical condition and avoid things that might aggravate an existing injury or weakness.  Second, wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) when participating in physical activities.   Third, learn how to do what you're trying to do.   There is a right way (a safer way) for hiking, hunting, fishing, hunting, horseback riding, OHV riding, camping, and RVing.  Fourth, recognize your limits.   Professional drivers, motocrossers, and water skiers can do things that are WAY beyond the skill of most people, but seeing them in movies and on TV, people try it anyway, in spite of the "don't try this at home" warnings that usually accompany dangerous professional performances.  If you really want to perform some of those outrageous stunts take the time to learn how to to them right and to build up your skills so you can do them safely.  If possible, find someone with enough expertise in performing the stunt to be able to teach and coach  you how to learn  how to do it safely.

As Rocky Balboa says: "Not so bad!"

Hey, Campers! It's not Styrofoam, It's Styrene, and its OK

 That's right.  The disposable cups, plates, and bowls we commonly refer to as Stryofoam are not really Styrofoam.  Styrofoam is a trademark of Dow Chemical and applies to their specific brand of styrene insulation products. Dow doesn't make any styrene dinner ware, so technically, there are no Styrofoam cups or plates, even though we call them that.

Why would Styrofoam be the subject of a camping blog?  Well, lots of the disposable dishes we use when camping are made of what we call commonly call Styrofoam.  So are many of the packages our provisions come in.   Technically, these containers are made of polystyrene, not Styrofoam. No matter what we call it, it is inexpensive, light weight, and, according to some studies, has a lower overall environmental impact than paper dinnerware, although it is slow to decompose in landfills or along the roadside.  There are various warnings given about burning "Styrofoam" with claims that it gives off toxic fumes.  The carbon-hydrogen ratio in styrene is about 1:1 and it gives off a lot of water vapor, CO2, CO, and carbon, hence the black, sooty smoke.  There may indeed be some styrene in the fumes, but from what I've been able to find, it is a small amount and most of the fumes consist of CO2 and water vapor. However, Carbon Monoxide (CO) is one of the byproducts and is indeed a dangerous gas and should be avoided.  Some reports claim burning styrene is less toxic than burning ordinary wood but first hand accounts by a fire fighter give the opposite opinion.  He found if he entered a fire where there was "Styrofoam" without wearing his mask and breathing apparatus (why the heck would he do that?) he'd get sick but didn't get sick around ordinary wood fires.  Perhaps he was allergic to something in the smoke from styrene.  True Styrofoam is used as insulation in many RVs.   Sometimes you can add Styrofoam panels to enhance the insulation in closets and cabinets or when you have walls open for repair.   I pulled the cab headliner down in my Class B van conversion and inserted a Styrofoam panel that kept the cab warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Styrofoam used as insulation shouldn't ever be a problem, unless your RV catches fire.  Campers are more likely to be exposed to possible risks burning styrene plates, cups, and bowls in their campfires.   But unless you burn a lot at once and you stand downwind and deliberately inhale the smoke you probably won't be in any danger.  As mentioned above, most of the by products are water vapor and carbon dioxide, not much different from burning wood or paper.

There is some concern that styrene from foam containers leeches into the food in them.   One article claimed over three years of drinking four cups of coffee per day from a styrene cup you would ingest the equivalent of an entire styrene cup.  Though certainly not an accurate representation of how it might affect one, I have visions of thousands of little white foam BBs flowing in my bloodstream. Ycch!  But styrene occurs naturally in many other sources ranging from cigarette smoke to cinnamon, so it is pretty hard to avoid it completely.  There are some studies that claim styrene mimics estrogen and can affect hormonal balance.   Wonder if the big macho guy slurping down a steaming, extra large double latte from a styrene cup every morning knows that.

What does this mean to campers?  First of all, the amount of Styrofoam we would normally be burning when disposing of our plates and cups will be fairly small and, burning them in an open campfire should provide sufficient ventilation to prevent any serious threats.   They also burn very quickly, minimizing exposure.   However, I would not recommend standing downwind of your fire when burning plastic plates and cups where you might get higher concentrations.  Of course you don't want to stand downwind anyway, unless you WANT to smell like burning garbage!  If nothing else, the lack of definitive information leaves the possibility of dangerous fumes.  Styrofoam is listed as an aromatic hydrocarbon and does give off some soot when it burns and soot is not a good thing to be breathing unless you want black lungs.  And I really don't like the idea of breathing carbon monoxide at all!   I would try to avoid burning large amounts of styrene containers all at once but prefer to burn them fairly soon after use rather than accumulate a big bag and then burning them all at once.  I wouldn't want to burn them in an indoor fireplace or woodstove.

The bottom line: don't panic if you accidentally toss some Styrofoam into your campfire, but to be on the safe side, avoid it if you can.  If you do choose to burn it, burn only a few items at a time.  I would definitely avoid collecting a huge bag of Styrofoam dinnerware and putting it all on the fire at once.  And remember to stand upwind of the fire. If nothing else, the burning foam and the garbage left on the plates will create some rather nasty smelling black smoke that you won't want collecting in your hair or on your skin or clothes let alone getting in your lungs!   Inhaling any byproducts of combustion is never a good thing.

It is likely the benefits of Styrofoam plates, bowls, and cups for campers out weigh the risks. Light weight, strength, resistance to heat transfer,  low cost, and convenience are some of the benefits.  And even though it is slow to break down in landfills, its overall environmental footprint is pretty favorable.  I'm going to continue to use them, and try not to breathe the smoke when I put them in my campfire.

Maybe strofoam-ing at the mouth isn't as bad as some people make it out to be.

Rock My RV

Rock My RV is a "reality" TV show hosted by rocker Bret Michaels.  See Rock My RV.   It follows the pattern of shows like Pimp My Ride, Overhaulin', and Trick My Truck but for RVs.  Bret draws on his extensive experience living in a custom coach about 9 months each year, coaches he personally designed, to redesign viewer's rigs.  The results are outrageous.  You'll view RVs with nicknames like the Stealth Bomber and see the transition from ordinary or even dilapidated to extraordinary.  I saw one in which they hinged the rear cap to lay down and create a huge canopy bed!  Most of the upgrades are truly innovative.

If you think you've seen it all, think again!  These guys completely gut existing RVs and refit them with extreme makeovers.   Wouldn't it be nice to have that kind of resources?  Even if you don't find a new idea or two for your rig, you will probably enjoy and be amazed at the creativity and the transformations.

Can you Rock YOUR RV?  While I expect it is unlikely any of us have the motivation let alone the time and money to take on anything close to the scale of Rock My RV, installing some custom features in your rig may be within your reach.  Think about what special functionality you might like to have and then be creative in how you accomplish it.  Upgrading worn and outdated Formica counter tops might be more affordable than you think if you track down some remnants left over from residential construction. You may even find granite counter tops there that would meet your needs.  One of the first things to do is measure your rig and decide what existing components might be sacrificed to make room for your preferred innovations.  Some changes, like new counter tops, won't involve major rebuilding, but others might.  Can you fit the audio/visual components you want for your Home Theater System into existing cabinets or do you have to rip them out and start over?   Some good functional changes can be fairly easy and inexpensive, like replacing a kitchen or bathroom faucet with a high rise bar faucet, but any major upgrade, like cabinets, furniture, and appliances is going to take some serious planning and some serious money and/or effort.  Swapping out sinks isn't too big a job, if you can find acceptable replacements of the same size and shape. You could probably install a slightly larger sink if you are handy with a jig saw, but going smaller would require a major countertop overhaul or replacement.  Adding a microwave or an ice maker should be within reach if you have available cabinet space that can be adapted and you're handy with tools and comfortable and competent doing some additional wiring.  Redecorating a bedroom can be fairly easy and inexpensive if the existing mattress is acceptable to you.  New bedspread and shams together with some new curtains or other window treatments can transform a bedroom quickly and fairly inexpensively.   See my previous post on Personalizing Your RV for some additional suggestions.

Rock on!

Comments and Guest Posts

Many thanks to those who have taken time to comment on this blog.  I welcome and very much appreciate comments. That is how I know if the content is useful and it is how I get new ideas to research and write about. While I greatly appreciate the positive things that have been posted, I would also welcome questions, corrections, and criticism.  I try to keep my ego out of my writing and strive to ensure the content is accurate, useful, and entertaining. That said, what I write is my opinion and often reflects personal views and preferences and I try to identify them as such.  I fully realize that not everyone agrees with my opinions.  I frequently review and update my previous posts, adding new information or making corrections as I acquire more knowledge about specific aspects of things I've written about.  For example, I recently obtained additional details about the "ATC Ban".   Turns out they were never really "illegal" but manufacturing and selling them were discontinued based on a "consent decree" entered into between the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) and the manufacturers to avoid some serious and expensive law suits -- and the threat of making them illegal.   The bottom line remains the same: the importation of 3-wheeled ATCs into the United States was discontinued for at least 10 years under the agreement.  Although the agreement expired in 1998, manufacturers have chosen not to reintroduce ATCs, partially because they have replaced them with highly successful 4-wheel ATVs and, no doubt, because of the lingering fear of additional law suits or government interference because of the perceived dangers of the once popular 3-wheelers.

Unfortunately some people like to abuse the comments.  I reserve the right to review all comments and remove any that are not appropriate.  Inappropriate comments include those with profane, vulgar, or obscene language, blatant advertisements for products or links unrelated to the content, and just plain gibberish.  I appreciate positive comments but recognize the legitimacy of those that may be critical of my work.  I will not delete comments simply because they criticize my work or question my findings.  I definitely have and will cotinue to remove inappropriate comments (as described above)!

Also please note that a recent post, 5 Travel Tips When Using WiFi for RVs, is a guest post from Singlepoint Communications, a company that specializes in Internet support for campers and boaters. I am happy to consider additional guest posts from individuals or companies with relevant information.  I reserve the right to accept, reject, or edit any submissions.  I ask that the content be relevant and helpful to the readers of this blog and not soley a commercial for products or services. However, thoughtful reviews of products and services with appropriate contact information for additional user research or purchase are welcomed and even encouraged. In other words, don't send me a brochure and expect it to get posted, but do send well-written product reviews and useful tips for my readers.

I love feedback!

5 Travel Tips When Using WiFi for RVs (Guest Post)

                                          * * *   GUEST POST * * *

Extra engine fluids, camping clothes, flashlights, marshmallows — these are a few crucial items on any RV trip. Nowadays, there’s a new “must have” ingredient for RV travel: Internet access. Yes, there are still a few old school RVers who stay in touch via pay phones and postcards, but they are by far the minority. Today’s RVing family often craves vacation internet access—for everything from YouTube surfing sessions to RV recipe research. If you’re looking to access the World Wide Web on your next RV adventure, here are a few tips.

5 Travel Tips For RV Internet Access

1. Beware Complimentary WiFi in truck stops, fast food restaurants, and hotel parking lots. Not only is this approach uncomfortable—who wants to sit in a parking lot while surfing the web?—it’s also unsafe from a data perspective. Hackers are clued into the fact that many travelers simply hook into these free sources of internet when on the road. In some places, seemingly legitimate WiFi access points lure travelers onto an unsecure network. From there, hackers have an easy time disseminating viruses, spyware, and other forms of malware to the unsuspecting laptop or smartphone.

If you must use these free forms of WiFi, be sure your data is encrypted. Follow strong password rules and use the most secure version of your most frequently visited sites. Oftentimes this is as simple as adding an “s” after the http in a URL. So, for instance, http://gmail.com would become https://gmail.com. Finally, use the web version of your programs—so instead of accessing Outlook through your computer, you would instead visit the online mail server.

2. Carefully Review Campground Internet Offerings. Before agreeing to any campground Internet fee, be sure you fully understand what your money will buy. Some campgrounds charge by the month—even if you’re only staying for a day or two. Others’ “Internet Access” is actually a USB cord that physically plugs into your machine—meaning you’ll have to wait your turn to access the Web, just like every other camper who paid the internet fee. Finally, if you actually are able to access WiFi in your RV spot, you never know just how strong the campground’s security network is—or how fast/consistent your WiFi speed will be.
Avoid internet irritations by asking about all of these things before agreeing to pay for RV internet access at a campground.

3. For Constant WiFi Access, Even on the Road, Install Your Own Router. These days, there are several ways to create WiFi within your RV. You can buy a device that plugs into your computer to gain access to nearby cell networks. Other RV internet devices include an antennae and a router, so that your whole family can enjoy wireless WiFi for RV vacations. If you must have consistent internet access for work or any other purpose, this is the best option.

4. Extend your Travel Savviness with Wireless WiFi for RV Travel. With WiFi in your RV, you can research your travel destinations while en route! Look up mouth-watering restaurants, check out unusual tourist sites, find a repair shop—you can do it all from the comfort of your RV if you have a WiFi for RV device.

5. Enhance the Educational Aspects of RV Travel with wireless internet access. With access to the internet, your family can “geek out” about the places you’re visiting. Learn about the history, geology, and ecology of your travel destinations. Kids can fully exploit the online resources of area museums with WiFi access at their fingertips. Mom and Dad won’t mind staying connected with family and friends via social media, either.
With digital media such a huge part of today’s culture, it’s no surprise that the need for WiFi now extends to our relaxation hours. For those who relax with a streaming video or online video game, RV WiFi means a more enjoyable RV vacation. Just be sure that your WiFi RV experience includes the tips we’ve listed above. Bon voyage, and happy web surfing!

SinglePoint Communications offers innovative solutions for internet WiFi when traveling. WiFi In Motion is the SinglePoint system that allows you to receive RV internet or WiFi on a boat. It comes with your choice of antenna as well as a rugged router to turn your vessel or vehicle into an instant hotspot via a robust cellular signal. Visit http://www.yoursinglepoint.com/rv-boat-internet.htmlYourSinglePoint.com for more information.

Wifi? You bet!

High Fuel Economy RVs?

"High fuel economy" and "RVs" somehow seem in seem incongruous in the same sentence.  Good mileage RV could even be considered an oxymoron.  Yet, as fuel prices continue to climb, manufacturers are working all the time to improve fuel economy.  Diesel was once a solution to low fuel economy and high gasoline prices.  Diesels typically got better mileage and diesel fuel used to be less expensive than gasoline.  Then, with demands for ever more sophisticated motorhomes, diesel fuel economy declined as rigs got bigger and heavier.  At the same time diesel fuel prices have skyrocketed.  The rising price of diesel fuel irritates me.  Diesel is essentially the dregs left over from refining gasoline.  An increased demand for diesel for ordinary automobiles has no doubt forced the prices up instead of down.

One way of achieving fairly good mileage with a camping vehicle is to tow a light trailer, like a tent trailer or tear drop trailer, behind a vehicle that gets good mileage.  Of course you will sacrifice many of the conveniences and comforts of  larger motorhome or travel trailer, but you will get better mileage.

There are some Sprinter chassis with Mercedes diesel engine based motorhomes today that are claiming fuel mileage in the mid-teens, something almost unheard of for motorhomes --at least since the 1970s.  Back then there was a 24' motorhome based on the air-cooled, rear-engine Chevrolet Corvair with a true monococque chassis that sported 15 MPG and could cruise at 60 mph.   It was called the Ultra-van. There were fewer than 400 of them manufactured, but it is estimated that more than 100 of them are still on the road today. They were designed by an aircraft engineer in the 1960s and built much like an aircraft fuselage, giving them fairly good aerodynamics and light weight. I suspect the aircraft aluminum construction has been a factor in their longevity. Interesting that the era that produced the biggest, gas-guzzling muscle cars also produced the most fuel efficient motorhome. I recently read the original brochure for a 1984 Fleedwood Southwind Eagle 1 27' Class A motorhome.  Their testing achieved 14.8 MPG at 55 MPH with an optional diesel engine, pretty good for a Class A motorhome! 

Aftermarket gimmicks that claim to improve fuel economy abound.  They range from magnets that attach to fuel lines to elaborate water injection systems.  So far, none of these gadgets has earned approval by any competent testing facility.  Water injection may have some actual positive effects:  it can increase octane, which may allow you to use a lesser grade of gasoline, and it helps cool the engine. The first water injection systems were intended to help clean carbon deposits from the combustion chambers, but I've never heard of that being successful either.  I don't think carbon deposited on metal at high temperatures is particularly soluble in water.  Ever tried mixing charcoal and water?  We've all heard rumors about the 200 mpg carburetors and how they've been systematically and maliciously suppressed by the oil companies.  Well, a chemical analysis of gasoline quickly proves that there simply isn't enough energy available in a gallon of gasoline to produce that kind of mileage.  As always, if something seems too good to be true, it  is probably a hoax.  That being said, there are differences in fuel systems.  Modern computer-control fuel injection tends to deliver better performance and mileage than older carbureted systems and there are some carburetors that deliver higher performance and some that do deliver better (though not spectacular) fuel economy.  If you have a carbureted engine you might be able to improve performance OR improve fuel economy by switching to a different carburetor.  But, be aware, you will typical sacrifice power and performance to gain fuel economy and vice versa.  One  upgrade that CAN deliver improvements in both is the Banks Power Pack, that improves delivery of air to the engine and reduces back pressure in the exhaust system.

"Airtabs" are teardrop shaped vortex generators that are said to improve fuel economy on large, square-backed vehicles like over-the-road trucks and RVs.  They are a little pricey, about $220 per vehicle.  A few users claim improved mileage, most report favorable improvements in handling in crosswinds and blow-by from passing trucks.  I'd be willing to bet it would take quite a while to re-coop your investment in fuel savings but the improvement in handling may provide immediate rewards that would make it worth while.

YOUR best bet to maximize your RV fuel economy is to keep your RV in good running condition (well tuned), make sure your tires are properly inflated, and drive carefully.  Avoid jack rabbit starts and quick stops.  Maintain constant speed on level ground and downshift as necessary when climbing hills.  Keep your total weight as low as you can.  Travel with empty holding tanks whenever you can. Choose level routes when you can and, if you have a choice, avoid driving in windy conditions.  Head winds are the worst when it comes to affecting fuel economy; cross winds can affect handling and lower fuel economy; tail winds might give you a little boost.  Minimize the stuff you carry on top of  your RV as they impact aerodyamics as well as adding weight.  The square shape of many RVs have the aerodynamics of a barn door.  I once read that the coefficient of friction for a certain Class A motorhome was the same as Jaguar XKE.  However, the total drag on the motorhome was, of course, much greater because of the much larger surface area.  Given the huge surface area of RVs, keeping them clean and well-waxed can help reduce wind drag and give fuel economy a slight boost.  Products like Protectall, claim to work well.  Protectall is reasonably priced and easy to use.  It was invented by a pilot to maintain minimum drag on the surface of his private plane.  I have personally tried Protectall and found it lives up to its advertising in both ease of use and performance.

Save fuel!

OHV Body Armor and Safety Gear

Body armor and safety gear probably aren't necessary for normal camping or hiking, although you do need to wear appropriate clothing.   You might need leather gloves for chopping and handling firewood and some eye protection would be a good idea when chopping.  But mostly you just need sturdy, comfortable clothing.  However, body armor is essential for OHV riding, especially if you're riding dirt bikes or ATVs. You may feel it isn't necessary if you're in a dune buggy or a UTV (side-by-side), but it is still highly recommended. You aren't likely to fall off your dune buggy or UTV like you can a dirt bike or ATV, but proper personal protective equipment is still a good idea. Dune buggies and ATVs sometimes do roll over, and even with seatbelts and roll bars, body armor will give you an extra measure of protection if you should be ejected. Dirt, dust, and rocks kicked up by vehicles in front of you can be as much of a problem for buggies and UTV riders as they are for dirt bikers.

First and foremost for all OHV riding, is a good helmet. It needs to fit snugly but comfortably. If it is too tight it will give you a headache. If it is too loose it will spin around and get in the way when you try to look to the side or back over your shoulder and it will bounce around and jar your head, again giving you a headache and/or a stiff neck. Don't be cheap about buying a helmet. If you have a $10 head you can put it in a $10 helmet. Be very leery of used helmets. They may look OK, but if they've been involved in an accident, the interior padding may have been crushed so it no longer will protect your head from impact. The padding is designed to crush to absorb impact and there is no non-destructive way to test the padding. If the outer shell is cracked or badly scarred, it has probably suffered a hit strong enough to damage the padding. Full-face helmets are recommended for OHV use over open face helmets because they provide more protection against branches, brush, and flying debris kicked up by other riders. On one of our forest outings I saw a 70 year old man air-lifted to the hospital after catching a low-hanging branch across his chin through his open face helmet. His jaw was nearly ripped completely off his face!  I believe a proper full face helmet would have given him much better protection and avoided a painful and expensive injury.

Goggles are the second most important piece of personal protective equipment. Eyes are kind of fragile and riding an OHV subjects them to a lot of abuse if they are not properly protected. Your goggles should fit snugly against your face. The padding should be clean and pliant. Use an anti-fog solution on the inside to prevent condensation from limiting your vision.  If you don't have any anti-fog solution, try spitting on the inside surface and wiping it dry.  The chemicals in saliva help a little bit.  Tinted goggles are recommended for daytime use to protect your eyes against glare and damaging UV rays. As the sun goes down you want to switch to a clear lens so the tint doesn't interfere with your vision. You can buy lenses that are sun-sensitive. They turn dark in bright sunlight and get lighter when the sun goes down. Expect to pay extra for that feature, but is may well be worth it. Its easy enough to choose the right goggles if you're planning an afternoon ride or an evening ride, but few riders carry extra goggles in case they get caught out on the trails longer than expected, which happens more often than most riders want to admit. With color changing lenses you don't have to worry. They will automatically lighten up as it gets darker.  Keeping your goggles clean is very important.  Dusty or foggy goggles will impair your vision and create a serious safety hazard.  Never just wipe dust off goggles without a little goggle cleaner.  Dust will scour the plastic lens and make it hard to see through.  For fog control the best solution I have seen is something called Cat Crap.  Don't let the name turn you off.  This stuff really works!

Good riding boots are especially critical on dirt bikes and ATVs where your feet may be exposed to obstacles along the trail. You'll see people riding in all kinds of footwear. Sturdy hiking boots are better than lighter shoes, but do not offer the same level of protection as riding boots. You should NEVER ride in flimsy shoes -- tennis shoes, dress shoes, or flipflops! I've seen people do it and I've also seen some serious injuries that could have been avoided with proper footwear.

Proper hand protection is necessary to avoid blisters from the hand grips and to protect your hands from injury from brush or falling off your ride. Riding gloves have pads on the outside of the fingers and the back of the hand, yet have flexible palms and joints to maintain dexterity to manipulate controls. Leather work gloves provide some protection, but lack the protective pads and are usually somewhat too bulky and clumsy to access the controls properly. It is tempting to use ski gloves for winter riding, but you're are better off investing in some Windchill Gloves or glove liners for added warmth so you maintain proper protection and dexterity. We found that very often we could buy inexpensive knit gloves that would work as glove liners. Sometimes that meant the guys were wearing baby blue or even pink "girlie" gloves, but since they were hidden inside regular gloves, nobody cared.  I've even fond suitable knit gloves (2 pair for $1.00)  at Dollar Tree so they don;t have to be expensive.   Real glove liners will fit better and be a little bit more comfortable but will set you back $15 or so a pair.  For occasional use the cheap knit gloves work great for us.

Knee protection runs the gambit from simple knee pads that fit in your riding pants to custom-made or semi-custom knee braces. Always at least wear knee pads. Knee braces give added protection against lateral displacement and over-extension, both of which are common occurrences when you hit the ground after you and your ride forcibly part company, especially if you go over the bars. Both knee pads and knee braces have cups that protect your knee cap from impact which can save a lot of pain and suffering. Knee caps are very tender and subject to very painful injury if not properly protected. Knee pads are the larger ones on the outside in the photo below.  The inner ones are matching elbow pads.

Some folks think they only need knee braces if they have already had a previous injury or other defect that weakened their knees but many people, including me, choose them as a preventative measure.  I've seen enough knee injuries with ordinary knee pads to appreciate the added protection provided by knee braces.  The biggest deterrent to knee braces is the cost -- hundreds of dollars versus about $20 for knee pads.  But some people are also put off by the added weight and the bulkiness of having them strapped to their legs.  For me, it is a very small price to pay for the added protection.   Yes, I notice the extra bulk, but I've gotten to where I would definitely miss it if I tried to ride without my knee braces.  Here is an example of EVS brand knee braces:

                                                     

Hip pads are usually built in or fasten to the inside of your riding pants with velcro. They are soft pads to help mitigate bumping your hips when you fall. Without them you are very likely to bruise your hips bones on even an easy get off.  For comfort and flexibility they do not include hard armor like knee and elbow pads, but they go a long way in reducing pain and injuries when you fall.  They attach via velcro to the inside of your riding pants.

Elbow guards and elbow pads help protect your elbows and your forearms. Some riding jerseys have light elbow pads built in for some cushioning, but for full elbow and forearm protection, wear hard shell elbow pads. I've seen riders use soft skate-board pads, and those might be better than nothing, but real off-road elbow pads have a hard plastic outer shell that protects your forearm as well as your funny bone. I never did think bumping my funny bone was very funny! Elbow pads are the smaller pads on the inside in the photo below.

Your jersey and riding pants may not seem much like armor, but they are also an essential part of proper personal protective equipment.   They are more than just a fashion statement for dirt bikers and ATV riders.  But they are much more that.  Jerseys are designed to allow adequate movement you need to control your bike, usually include some padding at the elbow, and are usually ventilated to help keep you cool.  Even on the hottest days you will soon regret riding in a T-shirt as you sunburn your arms!  Riding pants provide a surprising amount of protection against scrapes and scratches. They are usually made of a tough nylon material.  Sometimes riding pants are called "leathers" because the original motorcycle riding pants were made of leather.  You might still find some vintage leathers around and they provide excellent protection but they tend to be hot and much less flexible than modern riding pants.  Riding pants include features for hip pads and knee pads for even more protection.  Some of the fancy plastic logos and design elements also offer additional impact protection.  DON'T neglect these important parts of your personal protection equipment!

A kidney belt is a wide elastic belt that supports your midsection. It protects your kidneys against impact and jarring and takes some of the stress off your lower back.

The most visible and largest piece of body armor is the chest protector.  It might better be described as a "torso protector" because it provides protection for your spine and shoulder blades as well as your chest and abdomen.  Some of the original "Rock Jackets" lacked the shoulder pads that are part of many modern chest protectors.   Some riders objected to the shoulder pads because they can get in the way of your full face helmet when turning your head.  However, with a little practice, you get used to it, and the shoulder pads provide a lot of extra protection.   I broke a collar bone wearing a Rock Jacket and probably would not have been injured if I'd been wearing a chest protector with shoulder pads.  Chest protectors really do work.   I have some deep scratches in the shoulder of my chest protector that would have been in my flesh if I hadn't been wearing it.  I like to put a Velcro tab in the middle of the chest and a matching tab on the bite valve of my Camelbak hydration system so I can easily keep track of the bite valve so I can get a drink while riding.

Complete upper body armor is available that includes chest protection, shoulder and elbow pads, and kidney belt, all attached to a form-fitting fabric "shirt".  Some riders like having it all together, others find it too warm or too clumsy.  I prefer an external chest protector that has more extensive shoulder pads since they protect collar bones better.



A bandana is a simple part of my body armor.  Although it is not a hard item like most other parts of body armor, it is still important.   I roll it up and tie it around my neck and it serves two primary purposes.  First, it protects my neck from sunburn and second, when I dampen it, it helps keep me cool.  A bandana can also be used as an emergency bandage or a sling for an inured rider.  If you encounter unusually dusty conditions, you can wear it like a bandit mask to cover your nose and mouth.  Sometimes if it turns cold outside, you might wear it like that to help keep your nose and chin warmer. You can use it to wipe the sweat off your brow to keep it from dripping in your eyes and to clean your goggles (but avoid wiping them dry when they're dusty because that puts micro-scratches in them).  You can buy bandanas that are printed with survival tips and with first aid instructions but most are a kind of paisley print.  They are available in a variety of colors to match or complement just about any other riding gear you're wearing.

                  

Although not strictly body armor, a related piece of safety gear is your hydration pack. Dehydration is a serious problem when riding in hot weather and can even happen in cold weather. The best way to stay hydrated is to frequently take small sips of water.  A hydration pack makes that easy.  As mentioned above, I glue a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a matched mating piece to the front center of my chest protector.   That keeps the valve where I can easily find it when I want to take a drink and avoids getting it ripped of like often happens if the hose if left dangling and gets caught in the bushes.

A first aid kit is an important part of your safety gear.  Proper care for minor injuries will reduce the discomfort and help to avoid infection.   The very nature of off-road riding and other remote activities takes us into situations where injuries are fairly commonplace.   You should also carry a first aid kit when hiking, fishing, bird watching, sightseeing -- just about all the time!  A little pocket first aid kit is usually sufficient for minor injuries.  If  your ride is a UTV you should consider carrying a larger first aid kit so you'll be prepared for more serious emergencies, whether they be your own or someone you encounter on the trail.  Sometimes you can even find them at Dollar Tree so there is no excuse for not having them for everyone.

                                            

A trail tool kit is something you should have.  If you don't, it is only a matter of time until you wish you did.  You don't need or want to pack a ton of tools around, but you should have some basic tools specific to your ride so you can make emergency repairs on the trail.   I filled an old canvas shaving kit with tools and bolted it to my back fender.  I got a lot of teasing from another rider, who happened to be an editor for Cycle News, about having "everything but the kitchen sink", but then, not 20 minutes later I caught up with him broken down on the trail, and boy, was he ever glad to see me and my "everything but the kitchen sink" tool kit.  Tools for hiking don't need to be as complex as for OHVs.  A good multitool will probably take care of most repairs.  Or a pair of pliers and a double tipped screwdriver.  And don't forget your pocketknife!

Survival tools are also a necessary item for off road riding -- and for hiking or any remote outdoor activity.  You never know when your ride might break down or you might get separated from your companions.  Usually you'll find each other again, but in the unlikely event that you're stranded in the wilderness overnight, some survival tools will make a big difference.  I suggest that as a minimum you have a flashlight, a BIC lighter, a flint and steel, some cotton balls, and a good knife or a multi-tool.  I also carry a glow stick, tucked safely inside a piece of PVC pipe in the bottom of my tool bag to keep it safe.  A rain poncho or a survival blanket would also be a good thing to have.  They take up little room and can be critical to your comfort and maybe even your survival if you get caught in bad weather,

Armor up!