High Fuel Economy RVs?

"High fuel economy" and "RVs" somehow seem in seem incongruous in the same sentence.  Good mileage RV could even be considered an oxymoron.  Yet, as fuel prices continue to climb, manufacturers are working all the time to improve fuel economy.  Diesel was once a solution to low fuel economy and high gasoline prices.  Diesels typically got better mileage and diesel fuel used to be less expensive than gasoline.  Then, with demands for ever more sophisticated motorhomes, diesel fuel economy declined as rigs got bigger and heavier.  At the same time diesel fuel prices have skyrocketed.  The rising price of diesel fuel irritates me.  Diesel is essentially the dregs left over from refining gasoline.  An increased demand for diesel for ordinary automobiles has no doubt forced the prices up instead of down.

One way of achieving fairly good mileage with a camping vehicle is to tow a light trailer, like a tent trailer or tear drop trailer, behind a vehicle that gets good mileage.  Of course you will sacrifice many of the conveniences and comforts of  larger motorhome or travel trailer, but you will get better mileage.

There are some Sprinter chassis with Mercedes diesel engine based motorhomes today that are claiming fuel mileage in the mid-teens, something almost unheard of for motorhomes --at least since the 1970s.  Back then there was a 24' motorhome based on the air-cooled, rear-engine Chevrolet Corvair with a true monococque chassis that sported 15 MPG and could cruise at 60 mph.   It was called the Ultra-van. There were fewer than 400 of them manufactured, but it is estimated that more than 100 of them are still on the road today. They were designed by an aircraft engineer in the 1960s and built much like an aircraft fuselage, giving them fairly good aerodynamics and light weight. I suspect the aircraft aluminum construction has been a factor in their longevity. Interesting that the era that produced the biggest, gas-guzzling muscle cars also produced the most fuel efficient motorhome. I recently read the original brochure for a 1984 Fleedwood Southwind Eagle 1 27' Class A motorhome.  Their testing achieved 14.8 MPG at 55 MPH with an optional diesel engine, pretty good for a Class A motorhome! 

Aftermarket gimmicks that claim to improve fuel economy abound.  They range from magnets that attach to fuel lines to elaborate water injection systems.  So far, none of these gadgets has earned approval by any competent testing facility.  Water injection may have some actual positive effects:  it can increase octane, which may allow you to use a lesser grade of gasoline, and it helps cool the engine. The first water injection systems were intended to help clean carbon deposits from the combustion chambers, but I've never heard of that being successful either.  I don't think carbon deposited on metal at high temperatures is particularly soluble in water.  Ever tried mixing charcoal and water?  We've all heard rumors about the 200 mpg carburetors and how they've been systematically and maliciously suppressed by the oil companies.  Well, a chemical analysis of gasoline quickly proves that there simply isn't enough energy available in a gallon of gasoline to produce that kind of mileage.  As always, if something seems too good to be true, it  is probably a hoax.  That being said, there are differences in fuel systems.  Modern computer-control fuel injection tends to deliver better performance and mileage than older carbureted systems and there are some carburetors that deliver higher performance and some that do deliver better (though not spectacular) fuel economy.  If you have a carbureted engine you might be able to improve performance OR improve fuel economy by switching to a different carburetor.  But, be aware, you will typical sacrifice power and performance to gain fuel economy and vice versa.  One  upgrade that CAN deliver improvements in both is the Banks Power Pack, that improves delivery of air to the engine and reduces back pressure in the exhaust system.

"Airtabs" are teardrop shaped vortex generators that are said to improve fuel economy on large, square-backed vehicles like over-the-road trucks and RVs.  They are a little pricey, about $220 per vehicle.  A few users claim improved mileage, most report favorable improvements in handling in crosswinds and blow-by from passing trucks.  I'd be willing to bet it would take quite a while to re-coop your investment in fuel savings but the improvement in handling may provide immediate rewards that would make it worth while.

YOUR best bet to maximize your RV fuel economy is to keep your RV in good running condition (well tuned), make sure your tires are properly inflated, and drive carefully.  Avoid jack rabbit starts and quick stops.  Maintain constant speed on level ground and downshift as necessary when climbing hills.  Keep your total weight as low as you can.  Travel with empty holding tanks whenever you can. Choose level routes when you can and, if you have a choice, avoid driving in windy conditions.  Head winds are the worst when it comes to affecting fuel economy; cross winds can affect handling and lower fuel economy; tail winds might give you a little boost.  Minimize the stuff you carry on top of  your RV as they impact aerodyamics as well as adding weight.  The square shape of many RVs have the aerodynamics of a barn door.  I once read that the coefficient of friction for a certain Class A motorhome was the same as Jaguar XKE.  However, the total drag on the motorhome was, of course, much greater because of the much larger surface area.  Given the huge surface area of RVs, keeping them clean and well-waxed can help reduce wind drag and give fuel economy a slight boost.  Products like Protectall, claim to work well.  Protectall is reasonably priced and easy to use.  It was invented by a pilot to maintain minimum drag on the surface of his private plane.  I have personally tried Protectall and found it lives up to its advertising in both ease of use and performance.

Save fuel!

OHV Body Armor and Safety Gear

Body armor and safety gear probably aren't necessary for normal camping or hiking, although you do need to wear appropriate clothing.   You might need leather gloves for chopping and handling firewood and some eye protection would be a good idea when chopping.  But mostly you just need sturdy, comfortable clothing.  However, body armor is essential for OHV riding, especially if you're riding dirt bikes or ATVs. You may feel it isn't necessary if you're in a dune buggy or a UTV (side-by-side), but it is still highly recommended. You aren't likely to fall off your dune buggy or UTV like you can a dirt bike or ATV, but proper personal protective equipment is still a good idea. Dune buggies and ATVs sometimes do roll over, and even with seatbelts and roll bars, body armor will give you an extra measure of protection if you should be ejected. Dirt, dust, and rocks kicked up by vehicles in front of you can be as much of a problem for buggies and UTV riders as they are for dirt bikers.

First and foremost for all OHV riding, is a good helmet. It needs to fit snugly but comfortably. If it is too tight it will give you a headache. If it is too loose it will spin around and get in the way when you try to look to the side or back over your shoulder and it will bounce around and jar your head, again giving you a headache and/or a stiff neck. Don't be cheap about buying a helmet. If you have a $10 head you can put it in a $10 helmet. Be very leery of used helmets. They may look OK, but if they've been involved in an accident, the interior padding may have been crushed so it no longer will protect your head from impact. The padding is designed to crush to absorb impact and there is no non-destructive way to test the padding. If the outer shell is cracked or badly scarred, it has probably suffered a hit strong enough to damage the padding. Full-face helmets are recommended for OHV use over open face helmets because they provide more protection against branches, brush, and flying debris kicked up by other riders. On one of our forest outings I saw a 70 year old man air-lifted to the hospital after catching a low-hanging branch across his chin through his open face helmet. His jaw was nearly ripped completely off his face!  I believe a proper full face helmet would have given him much better protection and avoided a painful and expensive injury.

Goggles are the second most important piece of personal protective equipment. Eyes are kind of fragile and riding an OHV subjects them to a lot of abuse if they are not properly protected. Your goggles should fit snugly against your face. The padding should be clean and pliant. Use an anti-fog solution on the inside to prevent condensation from limiting your vision.  If you don't have any anti-fog solution, try spitting on the inside surface and wiping it dry.  The chemicals in saliva help a little bit.  Tinted goggles are recommended for daytime use to protect your eyes against glare and damaging UV rays. As the sun goes down you want to switch to a clear lens so the tint doesn't interfere with your vision. You can buy lenses that are sun-sensitive. They turn dark in bright sunlight and get lighter when the sun goes down. Expect to pay extra for that feature, but is may well be worth it. Its easy enough to choose the right goggles if you're planning an afternoon ride or an evening ride, but few riders carry extra goggles in case they get caught out on the trails longer than expected, which happens more often than most riders want to admit. With color changing lenses you don't have to worry. They will automatically lighten up as it gets darker.  Keeping your goggles clean is very important.  Dusty or foggy goggles will impair your vision and create a serious safety hazard.  Never just wipe dust off goggles without a little goggle cleaner.  Dust will scour the plastic lens and make it hard to see through.  For fog control the best solution I have seen is something called Cat Crap.  Don't let the name turn you off.  This stuff really works!

Good riding boots are especially critical on dirt bikes and ATVs where your feet may be exposed to obstacles along the trail. You'll see people riding in all kinds of footwear. Sturdy hiking boots are better than lighter shoes, but do not offer the same level of protection as riding boots. You should NEVER ride in flimsy shoes -- tennis shoes, dress shoes, or flipflops! I've seen people do it and I've also seen some serious injuries that could have been avoided with proper footwear.

Proper hand protection is necessary to avoid blisters from the hand grips and to protect your hands from injury from brush or falling off your ride. Riding gloves have pads on the outside of the fingers and the back of the hand, yet have flexible palms and joints to maintain dexterity to manipulate controls. Leather work gloves provide some protection, but lack the protective pads and are usually somewhat too bulky and clumsy to access the controls properly. It is tempting to use ski gloves for winter riding, but you're are better off investing in some Windchill Gloves or glove liners for added warmth so you maintain proper protection and dexterity. We found that very often we could buy inexpensive knit gloves that would work as glove liners. Sometimes that meant the guys were wearing baby blue or even pink "girlie" gloves, but since they were hidden inside regular gloves, nobody cared.  I've even fond suitable knit gloves (2 pair for $1.00)  at Dollar Tree so they don;t have to be expensive.   Real glove liners will fit better and be a little bit more comfortable but will set you back $15 or so a pair.  For occasional use the cheap knit gloves work great for us.

Knee protection runs the gambit from simple knee pads that fit in your riding pants to custom-made or semi-custom knee braces. Always at least wear knee pads. Knee braces give added protection against lateral displacement and over-extension, both of which are common occurrences when you hit the ground after you and your ride forcibly part company, especially if you go over the bars. Both knee pads and knee braces have cups that protect your knee cap from impact which can save a lot of pain and suffering. Knee caps are very tender and subject to very painful injury if not properly protected. Knee pads are the larger ones on the outside in the photo below.  The inner ones are matching elbow pads.

Some folks think they only need knee braces if they have already had a previous injury or other defect that weakened their knees but many people, including me, choose them as a preventative measure.  I've seen enough knee injuries with ordinary knee pads to appreciate the added protection provided by knee braces.  The biggest deterrent to knee braces is the cost -- hundreds of dollars versus about $20 for knee pads.  But some people are also put off by the added weight and the bulkiness of having them strapped to their legs.  For me, it is a very small price to pay for the added protection.   Yes, I notice the extra bulk, but I've gotten to where I would definitely miss it if I tried to ride without my knee braces.  Here is an example of EVS brand knee braces:

                                                     

Hip pads are usually built in or fasten to the inside of your riding pants with velcro. They are soft pads to help mitigate bumping your hips when you fall. Without them you are very likely to bruise your hips bones on even an easy get off.  For comfort and flexibility they do not include hard armor like knee and elbow pads, but they go a long way in reducing pain and injuries when you fall.  They attach via velcro to the inside of your riding pants.

Elbow guards and elbow pads help protect your elbows and your forearms. Some riding jerseys have light elbow pads built in for some cushioning, but for full elbow and forearm protection, wear hard shell elbow pads. I've seen riders use soft skate-board pads, and those might be better than nothing, but real off-road elbow pads have a hard plastic outer shell that protects your forearm as well as your funny bone. I never did think bumping my funny bone was very funny! Elbow pads are the smaller pads on the inside in the photo below.

Your jersey and riding pants may not seem much like armor, but they are also an essential part of proper personal protective equipment.   They are more than just a fashion statement for dirt bikers and ATV riders.  But they are much more that.  Jerseys are designed to allow adequate movement you need to control your bike, usually include some padding at the elbow, and are usually ventilated to help keep you cool.  Even on the hottest days you will soon regret riding in a T-shirt as you sunburn your arms!  Riding pants provide a surprising amount of protection against scrapes and scratches. They are usually made of a tough nylon material.  Sometimes riding pants are called "leathers" because the original motorcycle riding pants were made of leather.  You might still find some vintage leathers around and they provide excellent protection but they tend to be hot and much less flexible than modern riding pants.  Riding pants include features for hip pads and knee pads for even more protection.  Some of the fancy plastic logos and design elements also offer additional impact protection.  DON'T neglect these important parts of your personal protection equipment!

A kidney belt is a wide elastic belt that supports your midsection. It protects your kidneys against impact and jarring and takes some of the stress off your lower back.

The most visible and largest piece of body armor is the chest protector.  It might better be described as a "torso protector" because it provides protection for your spine and shoulder blades as well as your chest and abdomen.  Some of the original "Rock Jackets" lacked the shoulder pads that are part of many modern chest protectors.   Some riders objected to the shoulder pads because they can get in the way of your full face helmet when turning your head.  However, with a little practice, you get used to it, and the shoulder pads provide a lot of extra protection.   I broke a collar bone wearing a Rock Jacket and probably would not have been injured if I'd been wearing a chest protector with shoulder pads.  Chest protectors really do work.   I have some deep scratches in the shoulder of my chest protector that would have been in my flesh if I hadn't been wearing it.  I like to put a Velcro tab in the middle of the chest and a matching tab on the bite valve of my Camelbak hydration system so I can easily keep track of the bite valve so I can get a drink while riding.

Complete upper body armor is available that includes chest protection, shoulder and elbow pads, and kidney belt, all attached to a form-fitting fabric "shirt".  Some riders like having it all together, others find it too warm or too clumsy.  I prefer an external chest protector that has more extensive shoulder pads since they protect collar bones better.



A bandana is a simple part of my body armor.  Although it is not a hard item like most other parts of body armor, it is still important.   I roll it up and tie it around my neck and it serves two primary purposes.  First, it protects my neck from sunburn and second, when I dampen it, it helps keep me cool.  A bandana can also be used as an emergency bandage or a sling for an inured rider.  If you encounter unusually dusty conditions, you can wear it like a bandit mask to cover your nose and mouth.  Sometimes if it turns cold outside, you might wear it like that to help keep your nose and chin warmer. You can use it to wipe the sweat off your brow to keep it from dripping in your eyes and to clean your goggles (but avoid wiping them dry when they're dusty because that puts micro-scratches in them).  You can buy bandanas that are printed with survival tips and with first aid instructions but most are a kind of paisley print.  They are available in a variety of colors to match or complement just about any other riding gear you're wearing.

                  

Although not strictly body armor, a related piece of safety gear is your hydration pack. Dehydration is a serious problem when riding in hot weather and can even happen in cold weather. The best way to stay hydrated is to frequently take small sips of water.  A hydration pack makes that easy.  As mentioned above, I glue a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a matched mating piece to the front center of my chest protector.   That keeps the valve where I can easily find it when I want to take a drink and avoids getting it ripped of like often happens if the hose if left dangling and gets caught in the bushes.

A first aid kit is an important part of your safety gear.  Proper care for minor injuries will reduce the discomfort and help to avoid infection.   The very nature of off-road riding and other remote activities takes us into situations where injuries are fairly commonplace.   You should also carry a first aid kit when hiking, fishing, bird watching, sightseeing -- just about all the time!  A little pocket first aid kit is usually sufficient for minor injuries.  If  your ride is a UTV you should consider carrying a larger first aid kit so you'll be prepared for more serious emergencies, whether they be your own or someone you encounter on the trail.  Sometimes you can even find them at Dollar Tree so there is no excuse for not having them for everyone.

                                            

A trail tool kit is something you should have.  If you don't, it is only a matter of time until you wish you did.  You don't need or want to pack a ton of tools around, but you should have some basic tools specific to your ride so you can make emergency repairs on the trail.   I filled an old canvas shaving kit with tools and bolted it to my back fender.  I got a lot of teasing from another rider, who happened to be an editor for Cycle News, about having "everything but the kitchen sink", but then, not 20 minutes later I caught up with him broken down on the trail, and boy, was he ever glad to see me and my "everything but the kitchen sink" tool kit.  Tools for hiking don't need to be as complex as for OHVs.  A good multitool will probably take care of most repairs.  Or a pair of pliers and a double tipped screwdriver.  And don't forget your pocketknife!

Survival tools are also a necessary item for off road riding -- and for hiking or any remote outdoor activity.  You never know when your ride might break down or you might get separated from your companions.  Usually you'll find each other again, but in the unlikely event that you're stranded in the wilderness overnight, some survival tools will make a big difference.  I suggest that as a minimum you have a flashlight, a BIC lighter, a flint and steel, some cotton balls, and a good knife or a multi-tool.  I also carry a glow stick, tucked safely inside a piece of PVC pipe in the bottom of my tool bag to keep it safe.  A rain poncho or a survival blanket would also be a good thing to have.  They take up little room and can be critical to your comfort and maybe even your survival if you get caught in bad weather,

Armor up!

Stocking Up For Camping

Two posts, Stocking Your RV, and Stocking Your Camp Kit dealt with what to put in your RV or camp kit.  This post deals more with the process -- the mechanics and timing -- of stocking up to take advantage of sales or bulk purchasing and to have what you need on hand when you need it without having to make a last minute trip to the store.   By stocking up in advance you can spread out your camping costs and can often also take advantage of special pricing to further reduce the cost.   Stocking up makes sure you have what you need on hand for each outing.  It also helps you keep your RV or camp kit ready for spontaneous outings and to meet your emergency preparedness needs in case of a disaster scenario.   You should definitely consider emergency preparedness supplies as you determine what provisions you want in your RV or your camping bins.  You may be able to take advantage of buying in bulk and re-packaging just what you need for each trip.  Large sizes are usually not necessary or convenient when camping, but purchasing things that have sufficient shelf life in quantity and in advance can save time and money.  You may be able to "go in" with a fellow camper to make bulk purchases to reduce costs and simply repackage the supplies in appropriate sized containers for your individual use.

Stocking up for camping can help you take advantage of sale prices and coupons and have things on hand for repairs and for spontaneous outings.   But you must consider the shelf life of the items you purchase.  It doesn't do a lot of good to stock up on perishable items. They are likely to go bad before you have a chance to use them.  For example, no one in their right mind would buy a whole case of bananas and put them in their RV for future trips.   But there are other things that do make sense to stockpile so you can replenish your RV or camping tubs as needed without an extra trip to the store.   If you wait until you're ready to go on a trip and have to restock, it can be time consuming and sometimes expensive.  Buying things on sale and spreading purchases over time reduces the over all cost makes the financial impact less focused.

What should you stock up on?  It doesn't always make sense to stock up on things.  Stocking up on seldom used items is usually just a waste of space and money.  However, stocking up on frequently used or expendable items has several advantages.  The first, at last in my mind, is convenience.  Having what I need when I need it without having to make a trip to the store is priceless!  In close second is the opportunity to save money.  I like to take advantage of sale prices to stock up on camping supplies and gadgets.  You also usually save money by buying articles at your local Walmart or other department store instead of paying inflated prices at small stores in resorts or other remote areas.

Non-perishable foods can be usually be safely stockpiled.  Canned goods do well unless you leave them in your RV in freezing weather.  Be sure to check them regularly and discard any that show signs of leaking or bulging.  Dry goods do best when re-packaged in waterproof plastic containers. Things like cooking oil, syrups, and honey have a pretty long shelf life but you'll want to check them regularly to make sure they're still good.  Cooking oil does go rancid after a while, especially in hot weather.  Syrups usually last a long time and honey has an almost indefinite shelf life.  It may crystallize, but you can warm it up in a pan of warm water and it will be good as new.  Don't microwave honey.   It damages its nutritional value.  Viable honey has been found in 3000 year old tombs in Egypt.  A good way to build up camping or emergency provisions without breaking the bank is to simply buy one extra can of something (soup, chili, stew, tuna) each time you do your normal grocery shopping.

Most cleaning supplies have a fairly long shelf life.  Things like dish soap, furniture polish, window cleaner, etc. are among the things I often stock up on.  I find an aerosol can of carpet cleaner is also good to have in my RV for quick cleanups.  I live in a rural area so it makes sense to stock up when we go to town.  Some toiletries also last a long time, but I've noticed degradation in lotions when they are exposed to extreme temperatures.  I have read some liquid cleaning supplies may begin to loose some of their effectiveness after about a year, so be sure to check them periodically.  Shampoo, hand soap, toothpaste, and deodorants usually last pretty well, although I have observed separation or thinning in some lotions and liquid soaps.

Some medical and first aid supplies are long lasting.  Things like gauze pads and triangle bandages pretty much last forever in sealed storage (unless insects or vermin get into them), but things with glue like adhesive tape and Bandaids don't fare so well, especially if it gets hot where they are stored. The glue either dries out and won't stick or gets wet and slippery and the Bandaid won't stay where it belongs.  Some medications have a long shelf life, others do not.   Aspirin will develop a vinegar smell as it gets old, but it is still probably safe to use although perhaps not quite as effective and would be better than nothing.  I usually don't store a lot of extra medications, even though an Army study found that most meds are good for at least 15 years after their expiration dates!   I do try to keep my on board medicine cabinet fully stocked between trips but having duplicate bottles of medication just takes up space and may go bad before you will ever use it, especially since we seldom get to enjoy our camping trips as often was we'd like to.  Most everything will last several months, but extreme heat and cold may dictate checking things more often.  To be on the safe side, when in doubt, throw it out.  When disposing of medications, do so responsibly.  Some should be taken to a pharmacy.  The FDA recommends that some be flushed down the toilet.  But the most common way of disposing of them is to mix them with an unpalatable substance such as coffee grounds or kitty litter (smashing or grinding them before mixing is a good idea, just don't inhale or ingest any of the dust!), then sealing the whole mess in a plastic bag or disposable plastic container before putting them in the trash.

Spare parts for camping equipment is a good thing to have on hand.  Most have an indefinite shelf life.  I like to keep a "bunch" of things like bungee cords, grommets, back-pack pins, lashing straps, and sleeping bag cord locks on hand.   There always seems to be a need for them.  I lost track of some of my stash when we moved and ended up paying something like $3.00 for two cord locks when I needed them in a hurry for an outing.   Then I stocked up on about 50 of them for $2.00 on eBay, so I'll be set for a while, if I can keep track of them this time!   Small, expendable and inexpensive items like this are perfect candidates for stocking up on.  I like to have spare repair kits for the pumps and generators on my Coleman stoves and lanterns, but they are a little pricey and they don't often go on sale.  Tent repair kits will come in handy and they are usually seasonal enough that you'll find them at end of season clearances.  I look for the ones with self-adhesive nylon patches. They usually include a variety of colors and can be used to repair jackets and riding gear as well as tents, sleeping bags, and back packs.  More comprehensive kits may include netting for repairing screens and metal sleeves for fixing shock-corded poles.  I've found it useful to keep a grommet kit on hand to add grommets to my RV "grass" mat or tarps as needed and for repairs to tents and backpacks.  They are fairly inexpensive and you only need a hammer and solid work surface (even a piece or two of firewood) to install grommets.

Lubricants and fluids for your RV, tow vehicle and/or OHVs are good to stock up on.   They usually have a very long shelf life so you don't have to worry about them going bad.  Since they are used often in routine vehicle maintenance they tend to get used up pretty quickly so it is good to have some extras on hand.  Also watch for good buys on Brake Cleaner.   I find it handy for lot of parts cleaning tasks when working on my RV and OHVs.  However, if you live in an area subject to cold winters, you may find that some aerosol lubricants will freeze up during cold weather so you may want to move them to your garage or workshop.  Aerosol cans can also clog up as they age so test them periodically and replaced items that can't be reclaimed.  If just the spray head is clogged you might be able to soak it in solvent to reclaim it.  Sometimes you can also purchase replacement spray heads where spray paint is sold.

Spare parts for OHVs and other toys are good to have on hand, especially those items that are frequently damaged like brake and clutch levers on dirt bikes and ATVs.   Spare master links are always handy for chain-driven vehicles.  Spare spark plugs are a must have for vehicles powered by 2-stroke engines.  Having extra throttle, brake, and clutch cables can also save you a trip to town -- and your weekend of riding.  Tire patches and extra tubes for your OHVs are good to have on hand -- along with the right tools and the know-how to use them.  I find that hot-vulcanizing patches work better than the simple "peel and paste" patches typically used for bicycle tires.  They may be a bit more expensive and take a little longer to use but given the quality of the repair are more than worth the extra cost and extra effort to install.

Tools are always good to have.  No doubt you will identify new tools you might need or want during your outings.  You may see something someone else is using or encounter a situation where you don't have the right tool.  Take advantage of sales and clearances to improve your tool box.   Tools to consider should include camping tools and kitchen utensils as well as traditional mechanical hand tools.  The right tools can make almost any task fairly pleasant while the wrong tools can turn the simplest task into a frustrating disaster!  And tools aren't going to do you much good if you don't know how to use them.  Adult education classes in basic auto mechanics are available in most communities.  Of course there is always the trade of between weight /space and utility.  Is it worth the extra convenience to lug around a lot of specialized tools?  When they are required for difficult and necessary tasks the answer is a resounding "YES!" but if there is any question and you have acceptable alternate ways of getting the job done you may not want to further burden your tool box.  I find Harbor Freight is a great place to get inexpensive tools to supplement my RV and motorcycle tool kits but I also try to take advantage of sale prices on Craftsman and Husky tools when I can find them.  You can often find good deals on tools on web sites like ebay and craigslist.  And don't forget your local garage sales.  They can often be a great source of slightly used tools at great prices.  Shop early in the day for the best selection; shopping near the end of the day will sometimes let you negotiate better prices.

General camping supplies are one of the things I watch for on clearance.   Propane cylinders and lantern mantles get used up pretty fast so I like to stock up when I can get a good price on them instead of having to pay premium prices in camp or on the road when I run out.   Other things like plastic egg carriers, metal camping mirrors, individual first aid kits, individual mess kits, tent stakes and just about anything else that might show up on a camping clearance are candidates for stocking up, especially things that tend to be disposable (though usually not by intent).  I sometimes take advantage of clearance prices to try out camping gadgets I don't have.  I am hesitant to pay full price for something I'm not sure about, but if its on sale for a couple of bucks it may be worth adding to my supplies so I can try it out.

Batteries are good to keep on hand, but they don't last forever, so be judicious in how many you buy at one time.  I like to keep at least a half dozen or so of each popular size (AAA, AA, C, & D) in my RV and in my motorcycle trailer.  I also keep a few extra 9-volt batteries for the smoke detectors. You'll want to test the batteries in your stash from time to time so you can toss out and replace any that are failing.  The last thing you need is to look into your supply and think, "I've got six D cells", then find they're all dead when you need them!  If you leave batteries in your flashlights between trips, turn one of the batteries around.   That way, if the switch gets bumped, the light won't go on and drain the batteries. Just remember to turn them back around at the beginning of your next trip.  I can usually find most common batteries at my local Dollar Tree, so keeping them up to date is not expensive.  While these are not premium quality batteries, I have found them to be adequate for camping and the low price keeps the cost down even if I do go through a couple of battery changes in an outing, which would be quite unusual.

I sometimes consider stocking up on larger camping items like tents, canopies, and sleeping bags when I find a particularly good price on them, like year end clearances or garage sales.   It isn't like I expect to need to replace these items regularly, but my penchant for emergency preparedness drives me to supplement my survival supplies from time to time.  Not only might I need them for family or friends, but they could be used to barter for things I might not have.  In some cases I have found it useful to have options when it comes to tents and sleeping bags . I loved using my little pop-up tent for overnighters with my sons' Boy Scout troops, but there are also times when a larger family tent is more appropriate and convenient.  I've begun to eye some new "front porch tents" that have a built in screen room on one end, just for the novelty and convenience and fun of using them.  I can't count the number of times my grown kids have needed to borrow camping equipment and it is always good to have some extras on hand -- and to have choices to fit their differing and changing individual family needs.   I find it good to have a choice for my own outings.  I picked up a little 2-man pup tent at a year-end clearance a while back and it was perfect to toss into the trunk of the car on a road trip last summer, giving us the option to stop overnight along the way. I would probably not ever use it for a regular camping trip, but it was really handing for a quick overnight stop.  Not every trip or destination is the same and having appropriate equipment for a particular outing enhances each experience.  Besides that, sometimes its fun to tryout different tents etc.  I sometimes justify purchasing extra equipment to have on hand for emergency preparedness . I'll either have stuff to for my family, stuff to share, or stuff I can use to barter for things I may need.

Camping appliances, like stoves, lanterns, and heaters tend to be rather expensive and they also have long useful lifetimes so they are also things I usually only buy extras of if I find really low prices.  I was tempted by a half price sale on a Coleman Dual-fuel lantern, but for a long time I couldn't quite justify the cost yet, even at half price . Dual-fuel lanterns run on Coleman fuel (white gas) or ordinary unleaded gasoline, making them ideal for home emergencies.  If I had to I could siphon some gas out of one of my cars to fill the lantern if I ran out of Coleman fuel.   The regular price is over $80 so even at half price they're more than pocket change.  I kept hoping the price would go down some more, but it never did.  I finally snagged the very last one at the end of the season at 50% off, figuring it is part of my emergency preparations as well as for camping.  I pretty sure it would have been gone if I'd waited one more day or maybe even one more hour!

Lighting options continue to expand as more and more LED and solar powered lights are coming on the market.   I look for innovative variations that will expand my options and enhance my camping experience.  Solar walkway lights are handy for marking tent stakes so you don't trip over them in the dark.  I've seen some at dollar stores, making them quite cost-effective. You can also remove the stakes and had a bail or handle to hang them in your tent.  I found some solar "patio lights" at a dollar store too and they make excellent tent lights. Just be sure to take any solar lights out in the sun each day to recharge.  If you've been lucky enough to set up your tent in the shade, you may have to move your tent-stake markers out into the sun during the day to keep them charged and functioning.  Seems like I can always use and extra flashlight or camp light!

Towels, linens, and bedding for your RV are some more things that it is convenient to have extras on board.  For many years we got by with old stuff we borrowed from the house and usually only had one set on board that had to be laundered. It is really nice to be able to change towels and linens without having to do laundry.  Microfiber dish towels have recently showed up at my local Dollar Tree.  Not only are the good for drying dishes, they work really well for cleaning windows and mirrors without leaving streaks.  If you are low on towels and linens you can usually find plenty at your local thrift store.  You might have to settle for unmatched sets, but what does that matter out in the boonies?

Camping clothes usually go on sale along with other camping equipment at the end of the season. That might be a good time to stock up on jackets, sweat shirts, caps, gloves, etc.   I started buying "hunter orange" clothing when I was riding a black and orange KTM dirt bike and I still like it because it makes me visible on the trail and I don't easily confuse it with my regular stuff.   You may want to watch clearance sales at the end of different seasons for the best selections for various climates. "Windchill" clothing, good for cooler weather, will probably go on sale in the spring or summer. Light clothing suitable for summer use will probably show up in the fall or winter.  I like having warm cozy gloves for winter tasks but for summer they would be too hot and clumsy so I try to make sure I have both kinds available.   I find it convenient to keep a pair of warm gloves in the pockets of every jacket.  If its cold enough to wear a jacket, its probably cold enough for gloves and I like having gloves that match my jacket and having them readily available.  Surprisingly enough, a lot of my gloves come from Dollar Tree!

Stocking up on camping equipment and supplies is also a good way to hedge your bet for emergency preparedness.  If things go bad in your neighborhood you'll probably find your camping equipment and supplies will be your best and perhaps your only way to survive.  If you have more than you require for your immediate needs you may be able to help your family, friends and neighbors, or use the excess to barter for things you run short of.

When and where to buy.  Always be on the lookout for camping supplies whenever you go shopping, but pay special attention to seasonal sales.  Year end closeouts usually yield the best prices. Season openers will probably have the best selection and sometimes offer special introductory pricing too.  I have found farm and ranch stores and department stores like K-mart and Walmart as well as sporting goods stores to be good sources of bargains at year end.  You can usually stock up on cleaning and supplies and basic OTC medical items any time at your local dollar store.  Military surplus stores can be a good source of sturdy clothing and equipment.  I am sometimes surprised at the variety of camping stuff I often find at my regular grocery store.  I once picked up a folding picnic table with an umbrella for $25 at year end closeout at Thrifty Drug (now RiteAid). Of course, don't forget garage,  yard, and rummage sales!

Online resources are becoming more and more popular and more and more competitive.  Ebay and craiglist are good places to look for used equipment and vintage items.  Amazon has an amazing assortment of goods and, with Amazon Prime membership, you get free shipping and often next day delivery.

Keep an eye out for sales and coupons that can help you stretch your camping dollars.   Coupons can sometimes be annoying to use but appropriate use can save you lots of money.  Also watch for "double coupon" days so save even more.  Some stores, like Walmart, will honor coupons from other stores, allowing you to maximize savings while minimizing running around.  Home Depot will not only match competitor's prices, but give you an additional 10%  off.

Have fun stocking up!

Organization of This Blog

Unfortunately, the articles in this blog are organized only by posting date.  I have made some attempt to group related articles, but it is not 100% consistent.  If you have a particular topic you are looking for, use the SEARCH function.  Articles include RV purchasing and maintenance tips, camping equipment shopping tips, OHV tips, camping tips, and wilderness survival tips.  You will also find a scattering of emergency preparedness information.  Once you find a particular article you will often find related articles nearby.  For example, there are a bunch of camping articles near each other on things like desert camping, forest camping, mountain camping, beach camping, and even urban camping.  Another grouping includes the Who, What, Why, Where, and When of camping. One cluster includes Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter camping posts.   Early articles near the beginning explain the purpose of the blog and define various kinds of recreational vehicles.   Since I didn't get back into sailing until about 2018 anything related to boats and sailing is found in the more recent articles.

The blog has evolved as the author has been prompted by events in his own life, learning from others, or requests from readers have inspired specific items.  It did not begin with an overall outline or structure.  Thankfully the SEARCH feature provided by BlogSpot.com works pretty darn well and you should be able to find articles containing your search terms.

I am open to questions and to suggestions for additional articles.

Thanks for reading my blog.  And a special thanks to those who take the time to comment.

Fire Starters for Campers and Rvers

I'm not talking about people with the pyro kinesis capabilities of Drew Barrymore's character in the 1984 move "Fire Starter", although such a skill would definitely be useful and enviable in a survival situation.  Imagine being able to start a fire just by looking at it!  I'm sure most of us have experienced hot stares from our companions from time to time but unfortunately, combustible materials don't feel that heat the same way we do.

Much is written on ways to start fires without matches or lighters.  And those skills can be very useful and important when you're in survival mode.  But most of the time we want fires will be in a controlled camping environment where we can have a choice of useful tools and methods.  So, unless you frequently put yourself in a survival situation or have a tendency to get lost often, you can usually take advantage of easier ways to get warm.  You can start a fire with ordinary tinder and kindling cut from your firewood, but prepared fire starters usually make it easier.  You want your fire starters to burn long enough to get your fire going.   Fire starters are not a substitute for proper fire building techniques.  When I was managing a resort I had a guest use up an entire box of fire starters without getting his fireplace lit. I could usually get one started with about 1/2 of a fire starter.  Normally you'll still need to start with tinder and kindling and then work your way up to logs but fire starters are a good way to get things going without burning your fingers. As I mentioned before, I've seen inept campers go through an entire box of big fire starters without getting a fire going.  With just a minimum amount of proper preparation I've seen people start fires using only part of one of the same fire starters.

I don't have a lot of hands on experience with commercial fire starters.  I usually rely on traditional, proper techniques of building my fire in stages, starting with tinder, then kindling, then adding larger pieces of wood until it sustains full size pieces of fire wood and logs.   I have tried a few of the commercial wax and sawdust fire starters and found they worked very well.   It took only one match to start the fire starter and only one fire starter to light my fire and the smallest pieces of firewood were about 2-3" in diameter (dry, well-seasoned pine).   Handy if you don't have any readily available kindling or an axe to make some.  However I've seen people who wasted a whole box or more of these excellent fire starters without ever getting their fires going.   No matter what you use to get your fire started, you still need to use some common sense in constructing the fuel pile correctly. Don't waste your time or fire starters trying to ignite large pieces of wood.  Start small, with split kindling or twigs and work your way up.

You may see people using accelerants , like charcoal starter or gasoline, to start a campfire. There is no doubt that is a quick and effective way to start a fire, but sometimes it is TOO quick and TOO effective.  It is a dangerous practice.  I've seen more than one camper go home without his eyebrows or any hair on his arms after being caught in the flare up trying to start a fire with gasoline -- and those were the lucky ones.   Second degree burns are also quite common.  The sudden "whoomp!" when a gasoline soaked pile of wood bursts into life is dramatic and even kind of fun but it can scatter flaming wood in all directions.   If you think you must use an accelerant, exercise caution.   Do not pour on too much and don't wait too long before lighting it.  The fumes become explosive and the longer you wait the more fumes there will be.   Don't strike a match on one of the rocks surrounding your fire pit.   I've seen guys light a match and toss it onto a gasoline soaked pile of wood with amazing and sometimes frightening results.  A safer way is to light the end of a long stick or attach a match to a hot dog cooking wand and use that to ignite the fire from a safer distance.  Even "log lighter" style lighters will put you too close if there are fumes present and I don't know of anyone whose reflexes are quick enough to get back out of the way when an accelerant bursts into flames.  You will have already lost any exposed hair and likely suffered burned skin by the time you can even tell something is happening.

You can buy commercial fire starter kits and they usually work very well.  I like the looks of the Coleman "Strike-a-fire" and have added a package of them to my camping supplies. It is a sawdust and wax fire starter with a built in source of ignition similar to a road flare.  Just strike it on the box like a match or a road flare.  They come 8 in a package for around $5.00.   Speaking of road flares, they are quite effective as fire starters (in fact we use them to start "burn to learn" fires at the fire department  where I am a volunteer fire fighter) but are probably overkill and quite a bit more expensive than commercial fire starters ($2-3.00 each) -- and WAY more expensive than home-made fire starters! Road flares will probably burn much longer than you need for a fire starter, typically at least a half an hour.  You can definitely make your fire starters, often at little or no cost, that work just as well (without the self-striker unless you want to try to embed matches in them) and you have the satisfaction, often, of having recycled some otherwise wasted materials. 

A very good natural fire starter is something "fat wood".  You can buy "fat wood" in camping stores but sometimes you can find it in the forest.  It is found in rotten pine trees.  Dig away the crusty, brown, "alligatored" rotten wood until to find a hard solid core.  It should smell like turpentine.  That heartwood is impregnated with resin that has settled and been concentrated in the core.  It prevents the core from rotting and makes it highly flammable.  Fat wood shavings make excellent tinder to get your fire going.  Often the fat wood will still be dry even if the rotten wood around it is soaked by rain.

Road flares make really good fire starters.  In fact fire departments often use then to ignite training fires or place them in wrecked cars to simulate car fires.  Road flares burn VERY hot (3000F) and will even burn for a few seconds under water so they are handy for igniting wet firewood.

The type of fire starters you choose will depend on where you plan to use them.  Home-made egg carton fire starters (described below) are handy for starting fires around your base camp or in the fireplace at home, but they can be kind of bulky.  Commercial fire starters for hunters come in a pocket-sized pouch that is easy to carry.  A package of 4 is under $3.00 at Walmart.   I haven't tried them yet and the only review I saw on them wasn't very favorable.   It is a good idea to try out your chosen fire starters BEFORE you have to depend on them.   Try them out at home when you have plenty of time to seek alternatives if they don't work to your satisfaction.  Another option that is particularly good for starting fires in wet weather are magnesium shavings.   Magnesium burns very hot and very bright (even when wet) so always exercise caution when using magnesium.  It is what made old fashioned flash bulbs so bright.  You can buy shavings  online in little plastic bags.  You might even get some shavings for free or little cost from a local machine or metal shop.  Magnesium rods or blocks are often part of flint and steel fire starter kits.  You simply shave off some of the block and ignite it with sparks from the flint and steel.  Unlike many kinds of ordinary tinder that won't light when wet (cotton, lint, paper, wood shavings) magnesium WILL still burn when it is wet.  Which also means it is hard to put out with water.  For that you need a Class D fire extinguisher or cover it with sand or dirt.

One of the advantages to making your own fire starters is that they can usually made from materials that are otherwise discarded.  Save the stubs of old candles to be melted down.  Save some old cardboard (not foam) egg cartons.  Save dryer lint.  Save some sawdust.   None of these are much good for anything else.   It is good to recycle them to make fire starters.   I like the old adage: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."  Making your own fire starters is good way to "use it up" productively.

Dryer lint is often recommended as tinder to start a fire.  It is plentiful and cheap (free!). However, not all dryer lint is the same.  Lint from cotton, such as men's underwear, towels, and denim, works very well.   Lint from synthetics, such a nylon, rayon, and polyester, not so well.  The synthetics often have a tendency to melt rather than ignite.  Mixing lint with wax creates a sure fire solution that might overcome the problem with synthetics.  In this case the lint simply acts as a wick to burn the wax so its own ignition point isn't a major factor.  In fact, if it doesn't burn up it might even last longer.  Spread lint out on foil or a cookie sheet or big cake pan and coat it with melted wax from some old candles making a slab about 1/4" or so thick.   When it cools, cut it into little squares and use them to start your next fire.  For easier lighting, try to leave a little "fuse" of lint at one corner of each square.  Lint can also be used in egg carton firestarters (see below).

My favorite tinder for flint and steel is 100% cotton balls.  They are cheap, light weight, easy to ignite and make great fire starters.  If you saturate them with petroleum jelly they'll burn even longer, giving you more time to get your kindling ignited.   Do not confuse them with synthetic cosmetic puffs.  They look the same but being synthetic they are likely to melt instead of catching fire.

Egg cartons (the old cardboard ones, not Styrofoam), can be filled with wax or a wax/sawdust or wax/lint  mixture to make good fire starters.   Fill each cell with wax or wax and sawdust or lint, let the wax cool, then cut the carton into individual cells.  Leave a point or tag of carton material for a fuse on each cell as a lighting point.  You can light it with one match and each cell will probably burn about 10 minutes to get your fire going.  You will probably only need one for each fire.  You can also use paper towels, crumpled newspaper, cotton balls, or wood chips mixed with wax to fill the egg carton. If you want to see which materials work best, use just one type of fill mixed with wax in each cell. Otherwise you can mix stuff together to fill the cells.   Make sure your wax soaks into the egg carton for each cell.  Note: Styrofoam gives off nasty fumes and tends to melt rather than burn so DO NOT use Styrofoam cartons to make fire starters.  Styrofoam cartons won't soak up the wax the way cardboard does so they don't function as well.  They might also melt when you try to pour hot wax into them and might put out a little bit of undesirable chemicals when they burn.  If you lack lint or sawdust crumple up some old newspaper or paper towels or other scrap paper (like junk mail).

Pine cones dipped in wax provide a fun and fragrant way to get your fire going.  Collect some small pine cones from your yard or on your next camping trip, unless it is against the rules.   Drip the wax from old candle stubs into the crevices or melt the candles in a double-boiler and dip the pine cones in the melted wax.  You might add a bit of cotton cloth as a wick for an initial lighting point for added convenience.  Using them is usually a fun way to entertain and impress your fellow campers.

Store your fire starters safely.   Because they can be easily ignited and burn well (both good things for fire starters!), you need to protect them from accidental ignition.   The best place to store them is in air-tight metal containers.   My next choice would be air-tight plastic food storage containers.   In any case, keep them away from any sources of ignition.   DO NOT store them in places like your furnace or water heater compartments and keep them away from your stoves and ovens.   Because the paper from the egg cartons may absorb moisture, they also need to be protected from getting damp, so keeping them in a tightly sealed steel or plastic container is a good idea. One of my motorhomes had a nice drawer above the furnace.  NOT a good place to store waxy fire starters because they would all, at the very least, melt, and, if it got hot enough, perhaps even ignite.  I found that drawer was perfect for socks and underwear, especially when getting dressed on cold mornings!

Fire starters are NOT a substitute for good fire building practices, just a convenience.  You still need to have appropriate tinder and kindling for the fire starters to light.  If you try to light logs with your fire starters you are destined to fail.  It takes a lot more heat and flame to get a log going than you'll get from even the best fire starters.  Fire starters will help you get your fire going quicker and easier than lighting it with a match and often avoid the burned fingers that can result from holding a match too long or in the wrong position trying to get your fire going.  Build your proper fire around a fire starter leaving access to light the fire starter.  You should be able to get a good fire going with just one match.

Fire up!

Sleeping Bags

Sleeping bags come in a variety of styles and temperature ranges -- and prices, ranging from inexpensive flannel bags ("slumber bags") that are good for watching TV and sleepovers at home to high tech, sub-zero bags used by mountain climbers.  You will probably want something in between for most family camping ventures.  And you will probably want to resist the temptation to buy the warmest, most expensive sleeping bag you can find and afford.  You will undoubtedly find it TOO warm during most "good" camping weather.

The flannel "slumber" bags with cute Mickey Mouse or Winnie The Pooh prints are fun for the kids at home, but are probably not warm enough or durable enough for camp use.   Something with a tougher shell that is more resistant to dirt and easier to clean and warmer will be better for use in a tent or even an RV.  That having been said, you could add a sleeping bag cover to your kid's favorite slumber bags if that makes them feel more at home.

Sleeping bags are usually given temperature ratings.  How are those ratings derived?   It probably isn't as scientific as you might think it should be.  Manufacturers gives bags to employees or other "testers" and rate them based on the reports they get back.  Whether a bag will keep YOU warm down to the rated temperature will depend on many factors other than the bag.  First of all, are you a "Hot Sleeper" or a "Cold Sleeper"?   If you kick the blankets off most of the time or your sleeping partner complains you make the bed too hot, you're probably a "Hot Sleeper".   On the other hand, if you pile on the blankets, even in summer, you're most likely a "Cold Sleeper".   "Hot Sleepers" will probably be comfortable down to the rated temperature, all other things being even . "Cold Sleepers" will need a bag with 10-15 degrees colder temperature rating to stay warm.

There are several other factors that significantly affect how warm you will feel in your sleeping bag.  How easily you adjust to temperature changes is one.  If you're slow to adjust, get a bag 5 or 10 degrees colder than the temperatures you expect.  If you're not eating enough or drinking enough water during your outing, again adjust down 5 - 10 degrees.  Can you sleep in a close-fitting (mummy style) bag?  If not, get a rectangular bag 5-10 degrees colder.   If you thrash around when you sleep you will expel warm air; get a bag 10-20 degrees colder.  If  you expect your bag to get damp or the weather is damp, go down 10-20 degrees to be comfortable.  In windy conditions, you may need an extra 5-10 degrees in order to stay warm, depending on the density of the shell and the composition of the fill and your exposure to the breeze.  If you're sleeping in a good tent or an RV wind will probably not be a significant factor.

Sleeping bags come in rectangular and form-fitting shapes.   Rectangular bags can usually be unzipped and zipped together to form 2-person bags. I sometimes unzip a couple of old rectangular bags and use one under our sleeping bags and the second one on top like a comforter on especially cold outings.   Form-fitting bags, often called "mummy bags" are narrow at the feet and wider at the shoulders.   Form-fitting mummy bags are usually warmer for solo use because they have less air gap for your body to heat, but some people feel confined by them. 

Be aware that form-fitting bags are gender specific.   Bags designed for men are usually a littler longer and a lot wider at the shoulders and hips than those designed for women.  A man will find sleeping in a bag designed for women a tight, almost claustrophobic fit.  A woman sleeping in a bag designed for men will lose heat because the bag will be too loose on her.  Bags may also come in different lengths for different height people.  If the bag is too short the sleeper will have to bend their knees or part of their upper body will stick out.  If the bag is too long, the sleeper will have excess air gap to keep warm.   For best results and maximum comfort, choose a sleeping bag that fits you well.  My personal preference is a bag that is a little long so that I have room to put my clothes at my feet so they won't be cold when I put them on in the morning.  Extra tip:  don't put wet or damp clothes in your sleeping bag!
 

 Here are some general guidelines to use as a starting point for choosing a sleeping bag, then adjust as needed according to your personal and environmental needs:

Bag Type                           Temperature Rating (°F)
Summer Season                          +35° and higher
3-Season Bag                              +10° to +35°
Cold Weather                              -10° to +10°
Winter/Extreme                          -10° and lower

A good 3-season bag is probably the most versatile choice for most people.  You can probably get by with a summer bag during warm summer months, but it won't keep you warm enough during early (Spring) or late (Fall) outings.  You might need a Cold Weather or even Winter/Extreme sleeping bag for winter/snow camping, but you would end up unzipping it or getting completely out of it in the summer and maybe even during Spring and Fall outings.  You can probably unzip a 3-season bag to stay cool enough to use it during warm summer outings.

Why not just buy the warmest bag possible? Sleeping in a Winter/Extreme bag in summer temperatures will be too warm. You may sweat and then get cold or unzip the bag and get cold. You need to match your sleeping bag to the climate. If I had to choose one bag to meet most of my needs, I would go with a 3-season bag. As the name implies, it will probably be comfortable in three seasons -- spring, summer, and fall, but inadequate for severe winter camping. On the other hand, if you're doing most of your camping in the sun belt in the summer, you'll probably want Summer Season bag; even a 3-season bag may be too warm then.  Adding a liner and a cover and perhaps a wool blanket could turn a 3-season bag into a winter bag.

A military surplus "mummy bag" is often a good buy, especially if it comes with a sleeping bag cover. Just make sure you won't be claustrophobic in the close-fitting bag.   Not all military surplus bags are the same so be sure to check the temperature rating or season specification.  Some military bags, when used with the optional cover, are rated down to -20° F.  So-called "mountain" bags are thought to be among the warmest military sleeping bags.  Military sleeping bags are often really a "sleep system", consisting of a sleeping bag, a liner, and a cover.  The cover is usually more or less waterproof for use without a tent.  Depending on your requirements and the weather you may need all three components.

Storage can affect how well a bag will perform.   If you leave your bag tightly rolled up in storage for extended periods of time it will loose "loft" and will no longer keep you warm down to the rated temperature.  It is best to unpack sleeping bags and hang them up for storage. This allows any dampness remaining in the fabric to dry out and it prevents the fill from getting packed tight.   If you hang your bags in a garage, shed, or basement where they may get dusty, cover them with a suit bag or a large trash bag.  If the bag is damp, let it dry out for a few days before zipping it into a closed bag for extended storage.  I once had a really nice10° mummy bag I ignorantly left rolled tight for many months in storage and it was completely ruined.  The filling was so compacted in most places it was like there wasn't any at all.  I found myself freezing in it when the temperature was in the high 30s!  When it was new it easily kept me comfortable down to the rated +10° F.

Prices will vary depending on the quality, size, and temperature rating.   Rugged, high tech, low temperature bags, like those used by mountain climbing expeditions, may run $900-$1000 each!  You might pick up summer bags for kids at Walmart for under $20.   Expect to pay $50-$100 for good 3-season adult bags.  Those with tougher outer coverings will probably cost a little more but are also likely to last longer and may be a little more comfortable as temperatures drop.

Sleeping bag accessories include liners, covers, pads, and pillows.  Liners are light weight, intended mostly to capture sweat and dead skin to keep it from contaminating the inside of your bag. Liners can be easily washed without worrying about compacting the fill since they are very much like sheets for sleeping bags.  Covers are usually made of a sturdy, water-repellant or water-proof material, designed to keep sleeping bags dry when they are used outdoors in rain, fog, snow or heavy dew.  Sleeping pads are essential for insulating YOU from the cold ground and for providing some padding between you and hard soil, rocks, sticks, etc.   Pillows for use in sleeping bags are often inflatable so they don't take up much room when not in use.  You can often stuff clothing in the sleeping bag bag for use as a makeshift pillow and not have to carry anything extra.  Be sure to remove all the hard items (keys, cell phone, knife, wallet, etc) from your clothing if you chose this option.  Liners, covers, and pads can all make you more comfortable in colder weather.  Liners can sometimes be used by themselves on hot nights.  Both liners and covers add extra insulation to keep you warmer on cold nights.  Liners and covers function something like dressing in layers for cold weather, giving you more options to adjust to maintain comfort.  Liners protect the inside of your sleeping bag from body oils.  Covers protect the outside of your sleeping bag from dirt and weather.

Cleaning sleeping bags.   First of all, minimize how often you need to clean them by using a sheet or a sleeping bag liner.  When you must clean them, the best way is to send them to a dry cleaner.  Some may have washing instructions on them, but personal experience with washing sleeping bags and fluffy parkas has not been good.  One prevalent suggestion that is reported to be helpful is to dry the item in a tumble dryer with 2-3 clean tennis balls to dry to keep the "fluff" from clumping.   If you have already washed an item and it is clumpy, try putting it back in the dryer with tennis balls for about 20 minutes.  If that doesn't work, you will probably have to replace the item.

Used sleeping bags.   Some people are adverse to using a sleeping bag that has been used by someone else, almost as bad as wearing somebody else's underwear!  However, if it has been properly cleaned, it should be fine, and you can probably save a bundle of money.  Make sure the filling still has plenty of "loft" and that there are no major rips, tears, or stains and that the zipper(s) work properly.  Best to have sleeping bags dry cleaned, even if they are labeled machine washable.  Machine washing is likely to cause the filling to bunch up.

Ultimately you should think more in terms a "sleep system" than a sleeping bag.  A complete sleep system would include sleeping pad, sleeping bag, sleeping bag liner, and sleeping bag cover.  Together they will provide you with the best comfort, convenience, and protection.   Each has its own function to perform.  The sleeping pad insulates you from cold, bumpy ground.  The sleeping bag provides the primary insulation against cold.  The sleeping bag liner adds a little more insulation and protects the sleeping bag from sweat etc.  The sleeping bag cover provides weather protection and adds an extra layer of insulation.  They are usually wind and water proof or at least wind and water resistant to help retain heat.  Some sleeping bags can be used without a cover and that might be an advantage on warmer nights when you actually need to shed some extra body heat.

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Sleep well!