Staying awake can be extremely important when you're driving. Doesn't matter if you're in traveling in your economy car or a behemoth motorhome, you need to be alert on the road. Driving sometimes tends to kind of lull one to sleep and long trips can be very boring as well as tiring. Staying alert is critical to safe travel. You may also need to stay awake in a survival situation to watch for rescuers or to ward off animals during the night.
Many people depend on caffeinated beverages (coffee, colas, and energy drinks) to stay awake. They work pretty well for a lot of people. The very act of sipping your drink from time to time is helpful plus the caffeine will boost your energy level and help you stay awake. Some folks rely on over the counter remedies like "No Doz". I tried that driving in a National Guard convoy one time (using NoDoz) and for about 200 miles I hallucinated that I was following the taillights of a 1940 Ford coupe that wasn't really there. Any chemical dependence will let you down when you don't have access to the drinks or pills you have become so used to. However, consuming caffeine may keep you from being able to sleep when you do stop to rest and that can be frustrating and tiring.
I find that chewing gum or eating sunflower seeds helps me stay alert. Regular salted sunflower seeds make my mouth sore before too long but I've found that dill flavored seeds are about as tasty without hurting my mouth. I don't think there is anything chemical involved, just physical action of eating or chewing helps keep me awake. You might substitute your favorite snacks. You don't want anything too filling. A full stomach often makes you drowsy and too many extra calories is never a good thing. Sometimes just sipping a cup of water will help you stay more alert. By the way, you will fell very lethargic if you allow yourself to get dehydrated. I also have to admit I enjoy sipping a Pepsi while driving. Both the act of drinking and the caffeine help keep me awake.
There are anti-snooze devices designed for over-the-road truck drivers. They attach to your head and when you start to nod they sound an alarm to awaken you. I haven't tried any of these personally, but they might be worth looking into. The one's I've seen on the Internet hook over your ear and cost $5.99 - $19.98. Personally, I'd rather STAY alert than wait until I'm sleepy enough to start to nod off. By then I could drift into on coming traffic or off the road by the time I nod off enough for the alarm to sound.
The route you drive will have an impact on how alert you are. Long, straight, flat stretches of highway are boring and tend to lull drivers into a state of reduced alertness. Interesting routes with attractive scenery will help you stay awake, but often these roads are also more dangerous in the first place. Freeways are designed to carry large amounts of vehicles at high speeds and are usually protected by fences that minimize (but do not eliminate) animal crossings. The more scenic roads through forests and deserts demand drivers stay more alert and provide interesting views that can help hold your attention. Just make sure you don't pay so much attention to the scene that you don't watch the road! You can sometimes improve your alertness on boring drives by creating your own goals along the way. Pick out a landmark (natural or manmade) and mentally measure your progress against it. Even going from freeway over crossing to over crossing or from billboard to billboard can add some interest to an otherwise featureless highway. Well designed highways provide interesting views to help keep drivers interested and alert,but it isn't always possible. I-5 through the Central Valley of California is about as interesting as watching paint dry -- flat and straight and not even many landmarks over crossings in view.
Standing watch in camp has its own set of challenges when it comes to staying awake. Fortunately, most campgrounds are relatively safe and don't require an active sentinel all night. But sometimes you may have reason to stay up and keep watch (waiting for late arrivals, for instance). Chances are you'll be pretty tired from the day's activities and very prone to nod off. Caffeine based drinks or pills can help, but there are sometimes undesirable side effects. Staying active is one way to stay alert. Walk around, stoke the fire, study your surroundings. Sing songs. Eat some snacks or chew gum like you would when driving. If you have any companions, schedule them to take some watches so you can get some rest. The person standing watch doesn't have to be the strongest defender among the group. You just need someone who can sound an alarm if needed. If you've had a campfire, it is usually a good practice to have someone stand "fire watch" to make sure it doesn't flare up during the night. Fire watch is a standard practice at many military and Boy Scout camp outs. I've even seen buried campfires that started smoldering and smoking during the night, so fire watch isn't a "make work" thing. You probably don't need a fire watch at desert campsites where there is little if any flammable vegetation nearby but it might still be a good idea and it is definitely necessary when camping in the forest -- or make sure you drown your fire so it is DEAD OUT!
Stay alert!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Campground and Resort Reservations
If you are planning to stay in a popular campground or resort or visit on a busy weekend, reservations are a must. What constitutes a "busy weekend". Most holiday weekends will be busy but many destinations have local holidays or special events that may also cause unusually heavy bookings for a particular date or some unrelated group activity, like a family reunion, may fill it up. You need to check with the camp host or ranger beforehand to be sure you can get the days you want. Some places take reservations more than year in advance and it is not unusual for regular customers to book an entire summer in an RV park a year ahead of time.
When making reservations, expect to pay a deposit. The usual way to do this is via credit or debit card but some places will accept checks if the reservations are far enough in the future to receive and process the check. When you make a reservation your host is removing your reserved room or RV spot from their available inventory and are turning down other potential guests who would have booked it. They need some guarantee that you are going to show up. If you have to cancel expect to forfeit all or at least part of your deposit. Minimum deposits are often the first night's fee and is normally forfeited on cancellation. Cancellations on short notice may be billed for the entire reservation.
Here is what you need to have to make your reservation: Name, Address, Phone Number, Email address, Number of people in your party, size of your RV, when you want to stay (check in date and number of nights), credit card information (account number, expiration date, and security code). Also whether you will be bringing any pets or extra vehicles. There may be an extra charge for pets or extra vehicles or extra people.
Cancellations. Be sure to ask about the cancellation policy. It is normal to have to pay some cancellation fee. he business had to pay credit card fees to accept your deposit and has to pay additional fees to process your refund. It also costs them time, not to mention the possible lost revenue of having withdrawn your request from available inventory. The closer you get to the date of your reservation, the higher your cancellation cost is likely to be. For example, I know of one resort where 30 days or more notice only pays a $20 cancellation fee and the rest of any deposit is refunded. Less than 30 days notice forfeits the entire deposit, which is usually the cost of the first night's stay, including taxes. With less than 7 days notice the guest is expected to pay for the entire booked stay whether they show up or not. That may seem kind of onerous or heavy handed, but remember, the business has guaranteed you access to those resources and has rejected other offers in favor or your reservation. If you cancel on short notice their chances of reselling the space are limited and you may cost them the full amount of your cancelled stay if they don't charge you. Some establishments will allow you to "roll over" your deposit to a future reservation without any penalty. Most businesses will work with you if you have to cancel, but remember, your cancellation is costing them revenue. Make sure you understand and accept the cancellation policy BEFORE you make your reservation!
Extenuating circumstances. Sometimes there are legitimate reasons beyond your control that a resort or campground host may take into consideration. Most will try to work with you as best they can but realize they have probably already heard every excuse in the book. It is pathetic the stories people will make up to try to avoid paying realistic cancellation fees. If you experience real personal or family emergency that makes it impossible to keep your reservation, share it with the manager and offer to provide documentation if necessary. But consider this: if you fake an emergency just to get out of your reservations, it is the same as stealing. The business has taken your reserved resources out of the their inventory and most likely lost the income from the days you reserved. Finding a cheaper place to stay or one closer to where you want to be does not constitute an emergency. It is your responsibility to research your alternatives BEFORE making a decision and placing a reservation.
Reservations are not usually required or even accepted for open or dispersed camping areas in BLM and Forest Service properties, but it is still a good idea to call the local ranger station to determine if you will find things congested and get their advice about the best places to go to find open space and be comfortable. Often it is advantageous to arrive a day or two ahead of any busy weekend or holiday so you can have the best selection of sites. Rangers can also fill you in on things like fishing holes and hiking and OHV trails. Some Forest Service campgrounds do take and even require reservations, so it is always a good idea to call ahead just to be sure.
Are you reserved?
When making reservations, expect to pay a deposit. The usual way to do this is via credit or debit card but some places will accept checks if the reservations are far enough in the future to receive and process the check. When you make a reservation your host is removing your reserved room or RV spot from their available inventory and are turning down other potential guests who would have booked it. They need some guarantee that you are going to show up. If you have to cancel expect to forfeit all or at least part of your deposit. Minimum deposits are often the first night's fee and is normally forfeited on cancellation. Cancellations on short notice may be billed for the entire reservation.
Here is what you need to have to make your reservation: Name, Address, Phone Number, Email address, Number of people in your party, size of your RV, when you want to stay (check in date and number of nights), credit card information (account number, expiration date, and security code). Also whether you will be bringing any pets or extra vehicles. There may be an extra charge for pets or extra vehicles or extra people.
Cancellations. Be sure to ask about the cancellation policy. It is normal to have to pay some cancellation fee. he business had to pay credit card fees to accept your deposit and has to pay additional fees to process your refund. It also costs them time, not to mention the possible lost revenue of having withdrawn your request from available inventory. The closer you get to the date of your reservation, the higher your cancellation cost is likely to be. For example, I know of one resort where 30 days or more notice only pays a $20 cancellation fee and the rest of any deposit is refunded. Less than 30 days notice forfeits the entire deposit, which is usually the cost of the first night's stay, including taxes. With less than 7 days notice the guest is expected to pay for the entire booked stay whether they show up or not. That may seem kind of onerous or heavy handed, but remember, the business has guaranteed you access to those resources and has rejected other offers in favor or your reservation. If you cancel on short notice their chances of reselling the space are limited and you may cost them the full amount of your cancelled stay if they don't charge you. Some establishments will allow you to "roll over" your deposit to a future reservation without any penalty. Most businesses will work with you if you have to cancel, but remember, your cancellation is costing them revenue. Make sure you understand and accept the cancellation policy BEFORE you make your reservation!
Extenuating circumstances. Sometimes there are legitimate reasons beyond your control that a resort or campground host may take into consideration. Most will try to work with you as best they can but realize they have probably already heard every excuse in the book. It is pathetic the stories people will make up to try to avoid paying realistic cancellation fees. If you experience real personal or family emergency that makes it impossible to keep your reservation, share it with the manager and offer to provide documentation if necessary. But consider this: if you fake an emergency just to get out of your reservations, it is the same as stealing. The business has taken your reserved resources out of the their inventory and most likely lost the income from the days you reserved. Finding a cheaper place to stay or one closer to where you want to be does not constitute an emergency. It is your responsibility to research your alternatives BEFORE making a decision and placing a reservation.
Reservations are not usually required or even accepted for open or dispersed camping areas in BLM and Forest Service properties, but it is still a good idea to call the local ranger station to determine if you will find things congested and get their advice about the best places to go to find open space and be comfortable. Often it is advantageous to arrive a day or two ahead of any busy weekend or holiday so you can have the best selection of sites. Rangers can also fill you in on things like fishing holes and hiking and OHV trails. Some Forest Service campgrounds do take and even require reservations, so it is always a good idea to call ahead just to be sure.
Are you reserved?
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Changing A Dirt Bike or ATV Tire
Flat tires are an all too common problem when riding OHVs. The sometimes rough terrain tends to take its toll on tires and tubes. I've seen riders land hard enough doing jumps to pop a tube or just blow the air out of their tires and there are plenty of nails, sticks, thorns, and sharp rocks out on the trails or around camp to poke holes in things. We once used a magnet to pick up more than 10 # of nails around one camp site where previous users had apparently burned stacks and stacks of pallets.
Changing a tire out on the trail is not something you usually want to tackle, but it can be done if you have the right tools and repair materials with you. Dirt bike tires are usually stiff enough that you can limp back to camp on a flat and change it there. ATVs are much harder to drive with flat tires. When I worked as an ATV mechanic at a resort we would install a spare on site or trailer rentals with flat tires back to the shop to fix flats. Sometimes you can temporarily fix a tire using "Slime", that sticky green stuff, or some other "Instant flat repair" if you have some in your pack. If you choose to carry flat repair, make sure it is the pressurized cans to refill the tire as well as seal the leak. On the trail you may be able to stand your machine on a rock or log to support it while you remove and work on the tire. Make sure it is stable or have someone hold onto it so it doesn't fall off and get damaged or hurt you.
The procedures for changing a tire in camp or on the trail are pretty much the same. However you may have better facilities in camp to make the task easier. First, raise the flat tire off the ground using a jack, jack stand, or blocks. Make sure the machine is well balanced and stable so it doesn't fall on you while you're working on it. Loosen the axle nut and pull the axle out, then remove the wheel and tire. Lay the tire down on the sprocket side. This reduces the potential for bloody knuckles as you remove the tire. If you have disc brakes you'll have to slide the rotor out from between the pads to remove the wheel from the machine. You might have to slightly compress the calipers to release pressure between the pads and the rotor. If there is any air left in the tire, remove the valve stem and let all the air out. Remove the nut from the rim lock and push on the rim lock bolt to push the rim lock into the tire and away from the bead. This is most easily done by standing the tire up with the rim lock on the bottom and putting the flat side of a tire iron through the spokes and over the rim lock bolt and pushing down with both hands. Then lay the tire back down and prepare to break the bead loose from the rim. This can be difficult if you don't have special tools. Sometimes you can just step on the tire but most often it will require significantly more force. Tire shops use pneumatic presses to separate the bead from the wheel. You can buy a manual bead breaker that just uses leverage. In camp I use a small sledge hammer to loosen the bead. Be VERY careful not to hit the rim! When the bead is free from the rim, insert a tire iron between the bead and the rim and lever the bead out over the rim. Hold the first tire iron and insert a second one a few inches from the first and again lever the bead over the rim. You CAN make it work alternating two tire irons, but I find it easier if I have three so I can hold the tire in place while I get another bite with the third iron. Keep working your way around until the whole bead is on the outside of the rim. Having a helper to hold at least one of the tires irons makes it a little easier. From here you can remove the tube and repair or replace it without having to completely remove the tire. Of course, it the tire itself needs to be replaces you'll have to remove the tire. Align the wheel so thelower edge is outside both beads, then use essentially the same procedure with the tire irons to work the tire off the wheel. I found a tool that makes getting both beads off easier. It is a cylinder with a notch in one end that slips over the rim between the tire and the rim. You then hold the other end with one hand and use a hammer to drive the engaged end around the rim to lift the bead off the rim. Another handy tool is a "Bead Buddy". These clamp to the rim and serve as kind of a "third hand" to hold the tire in place while moving the tire irons. There are even small, plastic clips you enough you can carry in your fanny pack or fender bag for this purpose. They don't have to be big enough to apply much leverage -- they just need to keep the bead from slipping back over the trim while you move the tire iron.
Inner tubes are a lot more expensive than tire patches and many times a patch is all you need to get back on the road. If the valve stem is damaged or torn loose from the body of the tube you'll have to replace the tube, but simple punctures can usually be successfully patched. I prefer to use "hot vulcanizing" patches instead of the flimsy little, self adhesive,m bicycle tire type patches. I believe they make a stronger and more permanent repair, but I've also used the "peel and stick" patches on the trail in an emergency. Hot vulcanizing patches are attached to a little diamond shaped metal pan that contains a combustible material. You peel the protective film off the patch, put the patch over the hole in the tube, then clamp the metal dish to the tube using a special clamp. Then you light the material in the dish and let it burn until it goes out. Wait a few minutes for the metal to cool, then remove the clamp and carefully pull the metal dish away from the patch. Your patch should be securely sealed in place.
Installing a new or repaired tube requires some care to ensure you don't pinch the tube with the tire or damage it with the tire irons. A little talcum powder or baby powder on the tube will help keep it from sticking inside the tire and allow you to more easily move it into place and align the valve stem with the hole in the rim. Put a little (but not too much!) air in the tube so it has shape before you begin to install it. Line up the valve stem with the hole in the rim, push it through and install the valve cap, then gently stuff the tube into the tire all the way around the rim. Next you'll need to get the outside bead back over the rim using tire irons. This is basically the reverse of removing the bead. Take care not to pinch the tube with the tire iron or you'll be doing the whole job over real soon! Make sure the tube is inside the rim lock and push the bolt for the rim lock through the matching hole in the rim. Start the nut on just enough to keep the bolt from falling back through the hole until you're ready to tighten the nut. Once everything is in place, inflate the tire until the bead snaps back onto the rim. Check to make sure the bead is evenly spaced all the way around the rim. If there are shallow spots you may need to add air and over-inflate the tire until the bead pops into place. You will usually hear a sharp "pop" when this happens. When you are satisfied that the bead is properly seated, tighten the nut on the rim lock, then adjust the tire pressure to where it should be for riding. That usually means letting out some of the air it took to seat the bead. Then reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, making sure the brake disc (if so equipped) is properly aligned and the chain is correctly installed on the sprocket. Adjust the axle aligning bolts equally until the chain is straight and has the proper tension, then tighten the axle bolt and nut and hit the trails again!
Pumping up your tire on the trail . There are two basic options: a hand pump or a CO2 powered inflation kit. Hand pumps are inexpensive but because of the limited size for carrying on the trail it is going to take a lot of pumping to inflate a tire. CO2 powered inflation kits make it easy, but those little cylinders, about the size of your thumb, aren't going to fill a lot of tires. Big, puffy ATV tires take a lot more air than narrow dirt bike tires. Back in camp you can use a regular manual tire pump or, if you have it available, compressed air. Even a little 12-volt compressor that plugs into a cigarette lighter can save you a lot of pumping.
A tire changing stand is not necessary but will make the job a lot easier and keep you from kneeling in the dirt and gravel. It keeps the wheel (and you) up out of the dirt and some models include a bar that can be used to remove the bead. Another handy tool is a bead breaker. This consists of a curved bar that fits along the bead next to the rim. The bar is attached to a lever which in turn is attached to a stand that also has a "foot" that goes under the tire. Pushing down on the lever once everything is aligned forces the lip of the bar between the tire and the rim and pushes the tire down off the rim, making it easier to get your tire irons in place to work the tire off the rim. Of course you won't have these with you out on the trail, but they make the job in camp a lot easier.
Bicycle tires are handled about the same as dirt bike tires, but because of the smaller size, lighter weight, and softer rubber you will find the task easier. Tire irons for bicycle tires are much smaller than regular tire irons and usually have a notch that fits onto the spokes to hold one in place while you move the other. Bicycle tires can usually be successfully patched using simple peel-and-stick patches.
Happy patching!
Changing a tire out on the trail is not something you usually want to tackle, but it can be done if you have the right tools and repair materials with you. Dirt bike tires are usually stiff enough that you can limp back to camp on a flat and change it there. ATVs are much harder to drive with flat tires. When I worked as an ATV mechanic at a resort we would install a spare on site or trailer rentals with flat tires back to the shop to fix flats. Sometimes you can temporarily fix a tire using "Slime", that sticky green stuff, or some other "Instant flat repair" if you have some in your pack. If you choose to carry flat repair, make sure it is the pressurized cans to refill the tire as well as seal the leak. On the trail you may be able to stand your machine on a rock or log to support it while you remove and work on the tire. Make sure it is stable or have someone hold onto it so it doesn't fall off and get damaged or hurt you.
The procedures for changing a tire in camp or on the trail are pretty much the same. However you may have better facilities in camp to make the task easier. First, raise the flat tire off the ground using a jack, jack stand, or blocks. Make sure the machine is well balanced and stable so it doesn't fall on you while you're working on it. Loosen the axle nut and pull the axle out, then remove the wheel and tire. Lay the tire down on the sprocket side. This reduces the potential for bloody knuckles as you remove the tire. If you have disc brakes you'll have to slide the rotor out from between the pads to remove the wheel from the machine. You might have to slightly compress the calipers to release pressure between the pads and the rotor. If there is any air left in the tire, remove the valve stem and let all the air out. Remove the nut from the rim lock and push on the rim lock bolt to push the rim lock into the tire and away from the bead. This is most easily done by standing the tire up with the rim lock on the bottom and putting the flat side of a tire iron through the spokes and over the rim lock bolt and pushing down with both hands. Then lay the tire back down and prepare to break the bead loose from the rim. This can be difficult if you don't have special tools. Sometimes you can just step on the tire but most often it will require significantly more force. Tire shops use pneumatic presses to separate the bead from the wheel. You can buy a manual bead breaker that just uses leverage. In camp I use a small sledge hammer to loosen the bead. Be VERY careful not to hit the rim! When the bead is free from the rim, insert a tire iron between the bead and the rim and lever the bead out over the rim. Hold the first tire iron and insert a second one a few inches from the first and again lever the bead over the rim. You CAN make it work alternating two tire irons, but I find it easier if I have three so I can hold the tire in place while I get another bite with the third iron. Keep working your way around until the whole bead is on the outside of the rim. Having a helper to hold at least one of the tires irons makes it a little easier. From here you can remove the tube and repair or replace it without having to completely remove the tire. Of course, it the tire itself needs to be replaces you'll have to remove the tire. Align the wheel so thelower edge is outside both beads, then use essentially the same procedure with the tire irons to work the tire off the wheel. I found a tool that makes getting both beads off easier. It is a cylinder with a notch in one end that slips over the rim between the tire and the rim. You then hold the other end with one hand and use a hammer to drive the engaged end around the rim to lift the bead off the rim. Another handy tool is a "Bead Buddy". These clamp to the rim and serve as kind of a "third hand" to hold the tire in place while moving the tire irons. There are even small, plastic clips you enough you can carry in your fanny pack or fender bag for this purpose. They don't have to be big enough to apply much leverage -- they just need to keep the bead from slipping back over the trim while you move the tire iron.
Inner tubes are a lot more expensive than tire patches and many times a patch is all you need to get back on the road. If the valve stem is damaged or torn loose from the body of the tube you'll have to replace the tube, but simple punctures can usually be successfully patched. I prefer to use "hot vulcanizing" patches instead of the flimsy little, self adhesive,m bicycle tire type patches. I believe they make a stronger and more permanent repair, but I've also used the "peel and stick" patches on the trail in an emergency. Hot vulcanizing patches are attached to a little diamond shaped metal pan that contains a combustible material. You peel the protective film off the patch, put the patch over the hole in the tube, then clamp the metal dish to the tube using a special clamp. Then you light the material in the dish and let it burn until it goes out. Wait a few minutes for the metal to cool, then remove the clamp and carefully pull the metal dish away from the patch. Your patch should be securely sealed in place.
Installing a new or repaired tube requires some care to ensure you don't pinch the tube with the tire or damage it with the tire irons. A little talcum powder or baby powder on the tube will help keep it from sticking inside the tire and allow you to more easily move it into place and align the valve stem with the hole in the rim. Put a little (but not too much!) air in the tube so it has shape before you begin to install it. Line up the valve stem with the hole in the rim, push it through and install the valve cap, then gently stuff the tube into the tire all the way around the rim. Next you'll need to get the outside bead back over the rim using tire irons. This is basically the reverse of removing the bead. Take care not to pinch the tube with the tire iron or you'll be doing the whole job over real soon! Make sure the tube is inside the rim lock and push the bolt for the rim lock through the matching hole in the rim. Start the nut on just enough to keep the bolt from falling back through the hole until you're ready to tighten the nut. Once everything is in place, inflate the tire until the bead snaps back onto the rim. Check to make sure the bead is evenly spaced all the way around the rim. If there are shallow spots you may need to add air and over-inflate the tire until the bead pops into place. You will usually hear a sharp "pop" when this happens. When you are satisfied that the bead is properly seated, tighten the nut on the rim lock, then adjust the tire pressure to where it should be for riding. That usually means letting out some of the air it took to seat the bead. Then reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, making sure the brake disc (if so equipped) is properly aligned and the chain is correctly installed on the sprocket. Adjust the axle aligning bolts equally until the chain is straight and has the proper tension, then tighten the axle bolt and nut and hit the trails again!
Pumping up your tire on the trail . There are two basic options: a hand pump or a CO2 powered inflation kit. Hand pumps are inexpensive but because of the limited size for carrying on the trail it is going to take a lot of pumping to inflate a tire. CO2 powered inflation kits make it easy, but those little cylinders, about the size of your thumb, aren't going to fill a lot of tires. Big, puffy ATV tires take a lot more air than narrow dirt bike tires. Back in camp you can use a regular manual tire pump or, if you have it available, compressed air. Even a little 12-volt compressor that plugs into a cigarette lighter can save you a lot of pumping.
A tire changing stand is not necessary but will make the job a lot easier and keep you from kneeling in the dirt and gravel. It keeps the wheel (and you) up out of the dirt and some models include a bar that can be used to remove the bead. Another handy tool is a bead breaker. This consists of a curved bar that fits along the bead next to the rim. The bar is attached to a lever which in turn is attached to a stand that also has a "foot" that goes under the tire. Pushing down on the lever once everything is aligned forces the lip of the bar between the tire and the rim and pushes the tire down off the rim, making it easier to get your tire irons in place to work the tire off the rim. Of course you won't have these with you out on the trail, but they make the job in camp a lot easier.
Bicycle tires are handled about the same as dirt bike tires, but because of the smaller size, lighter weight, and softer rubber you will find the task easier. Tire irons for bicycle tires are much smaller than regular tire irons and usually have a notch that fits onto the spokes to hold one in place while you move the other. Bicycle tires can usually be successfully patched using simple peel-and-stick patches.
Happy patching!
Thursday, July 11, 2013
What is Punky Wood?
What is "punky wood" and why should you care? Punky wood is cited as a useful item in several fire starting articles on this blog and is frequently mentioned in survival articles and on shows like Survivorman. We're all familiar with pine, poplar, cedar, cottonwood and willow trees. But ever seen a punky tree? Didn't think so. So -- just what the heck is "punky wood"?
Punky wood is a the partially decayed wood you find in dead trees and logs (of any species). It is usually light in weight and quite dry. It usually appears checkered or alligatored and is soft so it can be easily scraped away for use. Often it is white or a reddish brown in color, soft to the touch, and spongy.. It makes good tinder for starting a fire and when a lot is used (like a whole log), creates a lot of smoke that purportedly has medicinal properties for treating foot fungus and for use as a "smoke shower" to kill bacteria on the skin. It should be dry and should be easily crumbled between your fingers. Sometimes you will find damp deposits on the bottom of a log. Don't despair. You can scrape some off and set it aside to dry before you use it. You might use damp punky wood for smoke shower or signal fire as long as it isn't so wet it puts out your fire or just won't burn.
Punky wood is recommended as a target for sparks when using flint and steel and as one of the preferred substances for use as tinder in a fire piston. It would also make good tinder for optical fire starters like magnifying glasses. For best results grind it into a fine pieces or almost a powder when attempting to light it with a spark source.
One of the advantages of punky wood is it is usually readily available in many wilderness situations. Look for a log laying on the ground or a broken off or hollow tree or dead branches and there is a good chance some of it will be partially decayed. Punky wood sources are usually not good for any kind of construction use. The decay will have weakened the wood and it may contain insects you wouldn't want crawling out of your walls or bed frame!
Punk up!
Monday, July 8, 2013
Fire Pistons
Fire pistons are another way of starting a fire without matches or a lighter. A fire piston works on the same basic principle as a diesel engine: heat is generated by compression. A fire piston consists of two pieces: a piston and a cylinder.
To use a fire piston you must first place tinder in the cylinder. Char cloth (partially burned cotton cloth) or a tiny piece of punky wood is the preferred tinder. The piston is then placed in the cylinder and slammed down quickly to compress the air in the cylinder. If the seal is tight, and the tinder is dry enough, and the stroke fast enough and forceful enough, the compression should generate enough heat to ignite the tinder. Don't expect flames when you dump out the tiny bit of tinder. At best you're going to get a glowing ember which you must blow or fan into life amid more dry tinder to create a flame. You'll need to place the ember in a bed of prepared tinder and nurse it along to get flames which you can then use to ignite your campfire.
Fire pistons are a little more difficult to use than flint and steel but they are very durable and can be used to light many fires if they are properly cared for. They should be able to be used indefinitely, as long as the seal remains in tact. Damage to the seal will render them instantly useless. It also takes a fair amount of strength to strike them hard enough to make them work so they are not for the weak and you may bruise your hands long before you get a fire going. Unlike flint and steel, there are no consumable parts to use up, but the seal WILL wear and may have to be replaced periodically.
In my research, fire pistons are usually more expensive than flint and steel. Given the differences in cost and performance, I would rather carry flint and steel as an emergency fire starter. In fact, I can get several flint and steel sets for the price of one fire piston. I think the likelihood of getting a fire going quickly are much higher, at least for me, using flint and steel. I routinely use flint and steel to start my campfires so I can stay in practice.
Fire up!
To use a fire piston you must first place tinder in the cylinder. Char cloth (partially burned cotton cloth) or a tiny piece of punky wood is the preferred tinder. The piston is then placed in the cylinder and slammed down quickly to compress the air in the cylinder. If the seal is tight, and the tinder is dry enough, and the stroke fast enough and forceful enough, the compression should generate enough heat to ignite the tinder. Don't expect flames when you dump out the tiny bit of tinder. At best you're going to get a glowing ember which you must blow or fan into life amid more dry tinder to create a flame. You'll need to place the ember in a bed of prepared tinder and nurse it along to get flames which you can then use to ignite your campfire.
Fire pistons are a little more difficult to use than flint and steel but they are very durable and can be used to light many fires if they are properly cared for. They should be able to be used indefinitely, as long as the seal remains in tact. Damage to the seal will render them instantly useless. It also takes a fair amount of strength to strike them hard enough to make them work so they are not for the weak and you may bruise your hands long before you get a fire going. Unlike flint and steel, there are no consumable parts to use up, but the seal WILL wear and may have to be replaced periodically.
In my research, fire pistons are usually more expensive than flint and steel. Given the differences in cost and performance, I would rather carry flint and steel as an emergency fire starter. In fact, I can get several flint and steel sets for the price of one fire piston. I think the likelihood of getting a fire going quickly are much higher, at least for me, using flint and steel. I routinely use flint and steel to start my campfires so I can stay in practice.
Fire up!
Using Flint and Steel Fire Starters
Flint and steel fire starters are pretty easy to use -- if you know how -- and if you use the right tinder. However, in order to be proficient at using them, you need a little practice. You don't want to spend precious time learning what to do or figuring out how to prepare tinder when you're in a survival situation and need a fire NOW. Using flint and steel every time you start your camp fire is a good habit to develop.
First of all, they sometimes have to be broken in before they will work right. The tool often comes with a factory coating to protect it, and until that coating is scraped away you won't get good sparks. Some flint and steel systems include a magnesium bar that is intended to be shaved off to be used as the tinder to catch your sparks. You'll usually need a sharp pocket knife for this. Create a little pile at least the size of a dime (the size of a quarter is even better) so you'll have a good target for the sparks and enough fuel to give you time to light your fire. Some folks recommend making a pile about the size of a quarter so you have more time to transplant it to get your fire going, but if you have everything ready and can transfer the burning magnesium to your tinder quickly a dime size pile should be sufficient. Magnesium burns very hot and very bright (it is what makes old fashioned flashbulbs so bright) and will burn even when it is wet so it is an excellent way to get a fire going even in wet weather.
One of the first things you should do when you buy a flint and steel fire starter is practice with it. This will let you scrape off the protective coatings and learn the right pressure, speed, and angle to create good sparks and to see where the sparks are going to go so you'll know where to put your tinder. Be patient. It may take a number of strokes before the coating is gone and you get a good feel for how to create and control the sparks. Different styles of fire starters have different intensity and patterns of sparks. I've seen some that throw intense sparks 2-3 feet! Other may only travel a few inches. You will want to experiment to find out what pressure and speed works best for you using the equipment you have.
One of the main keys to success using flint and steel is having the right tinder. As mentioned above, the magnesium shavings from commercial flint and steel systems work very well. Another excellent tinder is 100% cotton balls, with or without added Vaseline. Added Vaseline will make them burn longer, giving you more time to get your fire going, but just plain cotton balls usually ignite faster. DO NOT use synthetic "cosmetic puffs". They look the same as cotton balls, but the sparks will usually just melt through the synthetic fibers instead of igniting them. You'll see a lot of folks recommending dryer lint as tinder. If it is from cotton towels or underwear or denim it will probably work pretty well. If it has a high synthetic content (nylon, rayon, polyester), it will most likely just melt. In the wild, the fluff from mature cattails or milkweed works really well. Or create some shavings from dry tree bark or punky wood. Or crush some dry grass or weeds in your hands. The drier and finer your tinder, the easier it will accept a spark and ignite. Often all you will get is a glowing ember you will need to fan into life to ignite your fire.
It is usually easier to use your flint and steel outside of your fire, then transfer the tinder to the fire. Trying to work inside a pile of fire wood can be frustrating and sometimes even dangerous. Make a little pile of properly prepared tinder on a convenient rock or stump and light it with your flint and steel.
The next critical step is transferring your tinder into your fire. The key to this step is preparation. Put your tinder into some kind of container you will be able to move without burning yourself. Old time mountain men often used a piece of leather for this purpose. You might substitute thick green leaves (green so they don't easily catch fire in your hands) or a small piece of flat wood or stone -- or a flattened old tin can. Have your fire ready to go so all you have to do is place your burning tinder in place below the kindling. One neat trick is to prepare a tinder nest to receive your initial embers and use that to ignite your actual fire by putting the whole nest into the prepared fire pile. Sometimes you can actually use an old bird's nest for this purpose. Another handy technique is to cut some shavings and leave them attached to the end of the stick, giving it a brush-like appearance. Use your initial flame to ignite the shavings and the shavings stick will burn long enough for you to use it to light your fire.
An alternative method is to build your fire around your tinder start. Here again, the key is preparation. Have your fire pit prepared and all your fuel, especially kindling, sorted, stacked, and ready to go. Place the burning tinder in the center of your prepared fire pit, then gently add kindling, starting with very small sticks (diameter less than that of a pencil) and working your way up until you can add larger and larger pieces, eventually nice big logs. You might try adding dry grass or weeds before attempting to add wood. Don't put on too much at a time or you'll smother your fire. Wait until the pieces you add begin to burn well and flame up before adding more. As the small kindling begins to burn add larger pieces, say the diameter of your thumb, then, when those are burning well, add some about 1" - 2" or so across, then 4", then 6" etc until you have the size of fire you need.
Light 'em up!
Sunday, July 7, 2013
RV Park and Campground Etiquette
I've seen the behavior of RVers run from incredibly considerate to really horrible. What makes the difference? Mostly thoughtfulness -- and following the rules. Most RVers are considerate and good citizens but some RVers think they should have unrestricted access to the whole world and these folks often display a flagrant disregard for everyone else. They're perfectly happy as long as THEY have everything going THEIR WAY. You've probably seen the type. They build a big smoking fire that just about drives everyone else in the park away, they turn up their sound systems to near the threshold of pain, they let their pets -- and kids -- run wild, they run their generators or fuming diesel engines way before and way after "quiet hours", they and their guests park in the roadways, they show up after hours and expect personal service getting into their assigned site, they take off without checking out. I once saw a group take over the public pavilion as their private parking lot for their personal and unauthorized guests. Did I miss anything? Having spent a summer as an assistant manager in a resort with about a dozen RV spaces, I've seen a lot of both good and bad examples. I'm sure you all have your own pet peeves about fellow campers.
Being a good camper isn't difficult. It is mostly a matter of common sense -- and knowing and following the rules. Most campgrounds have posted rules or will provide written rules when you check in. Look them over and make sure you comply. Most rules aren't that onerous or restrictive. It is just common sense that good campers will do pretty much the opposite of the things listed in the paragraph above. It isn't rocket science to monitor whether your campfire smoke is blowing into someone else's space and keeping your music in YOUR campsite doesn't take a brain surgeon either. Simply following the Golden Rule is a good place to start, but even if YOU might think your actions are acceptable, you need to consider how other people might feel about them. Maybe you don't mind loud music, but not everyone has the same appreciation for country music, rock'n'roll, or Heavy Metal. I heard of one classic music lover who retaliated against loud rock music by playing the 1812 Overture at extremely high volume, especially the section with the cannons!
A few basic rules:
Be nice! It doesn't cost anything and pays huge dividends.
Being a good camper isn't difficult. It is mostly a matter of common sense -- and knowing and following the rules. Most campgrounds have posted rules or will provide written rules when you check in. Look them over and make sure you comply. Most rules aren't that onerous or restrictive. It is just common sense that good campers will do pretty much the opposite of the things listed in the paragraph above. It isn't rocket science to monitor whether your campfire smoke is blowing into someone else's space and keeping your music in YOUR campsite doesn't take a brain surgeon either. Simply following the Golden Rule is a good place to start, but even if YOU might think your actions are acceptable, you need to consider how other people might feel about them. Maybe you don't mind loud music, but not everyone has the same appreciation for country music, rock'n'roll, or Heavy Metal. I heard of one classic music lover who retaliated against loud rock music by playing the 1812 Overture at extremely high volume, especially the section with the cannons!
A few basic rules:
- Keep all your stuff (smoke, music, noise, kids, pets, vehicles, trash, activities) in your campsite.
- Learn and obey all the posted rules.
- Plan your travels to arrive and depart according to scheduled check in and check out times set by the campgrounds.
- Leave your site AT LEAST as clean as you found it.
- Pay special attention to fire restrictions.
- Be courteous and friendly to your host and your fellow campers.
- Report any violations of rules you observe.
Be nice! It doesn't cost anything and pays huge dividends.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
RV Driving Etiquette
RVs of various kinds, by their very nature, tend to be large and cumbersome and usually slow especially on hills or curvy roads. Very often the drivers are in unfamiliar territory. But that doesn't mean they have to be traffic hazards! Poor driving is what makes them hazards. I recently had the experience of driving over 100 miles on two-lane, mountain roads in my passenger car. I am sad to report that virtually every RV I encountered was impeding traffic and ignored numerous opportunities to pull over and allow the traffic that was backing up behind them pass. Very rude! They were obviously intimidated by the combination of their vehicle and the mountain road and were driving way below the posted speed limit. This kind of behavior is inexcusable! Most of these rigs were identifiable as rentals so the drivers were probably inexperienced, but that is no excuse for creating a traffic hazard. Yes, big, heavy rigs are slow. And, yes, many drivers are intimidated by mountain roads. But all you have to do to be a good citizen is watch your rear view mirror and, when traffic starts to back up behind you, pull over and let them go around. In California and many other states the law REQUIRES you to pull over if there are 4 or more vehicles behind you. regardless of how fast or slow you are driving. In any state, common courtesy demands you pull over when ever you are holding up any traffic. Not only is it courteous, it is a safety issue. Often the legal opportunities for passing are few and far between on mountain roads and impatient drivers may be inclined to attempt to pass when it isn't safe. Not only do they risk a head on collision with oncoming traffic, which they may not be able to see around an RV until it is too late, any evasive action or accident they may be involved in is likely to affect the RV they are passing. For your own safety, as well as a courtesy to other drivers, pull over and let them go around! Any time you lose waiting for traffic to go around you will be insignificant compared to the time you'll lose if you're involved in an accident!
Some drivers may try to justify their failure to pull over by claiming it is too hard and takes too long to get those big rigs moving again. It is true that getting back up to speed on steep hills is difficult, but in most situations there are alternating up and down hill stretches so pulling over at the top so you have gravity to help you get going faster down the other side or pulling over on a down grade or on the level is usually an option. And when it is not, the time you might lose pulling over and getting going again is nothing compared to what you would lose due to an accident from someone attempting to pass you -- or to how much of other drivers' time you're wasting.
On many mountain roads turn outs will be clearly posted and slower vehicles should use them whenever there are other vehicles behind them. Even when turn outs aren't posted, savvy drivers will look ahead and take advantage of places they can get over to let traffic get around them.
Some other things you can do to minimize your negative impact on other traffic includes reducing the amount of weight you're hauling. Lighten the load if/when you can. Periodically go through your RV and get rid of unnecessary items. If you are going to have a way to fill your water tank at your destination, bring along only what you'll use during the trip. Water is very heavy: 8 pounds per gallon. A 100 gallon tank will contain 800 pounds of water when full. You can probably get by with 5-10 gallons on the road, only 40-80 pounds. That saves you more than 700 pounds! Not only will you have better acceleration and climb hills with less effort, you may even save on gas. Think about it: 800 pounds is about 20-25% of the weight of an average car. Imagine what loading 1/4 of an extra car onto your daily driver would do to the gas mileage and acceleration!
When caravaning with other RVs leave plenty of space between rigs to give other drivers room to pass you one at a time. Try to signal other drivers when it is safe to pass by driving as close to the right shoulder as possible so they can see around you. If someone attempts to pass you when there is oncoming traffic, slow down and keep right to allow them to get around you as quickly as possible. NEVER accelerate when someone is trying to pass you and NEVER speed up when you reach a legal passing zone. RVs are not going to win the race, even if the vehicle passing you is a semi! Passing lanes are clearly marked "keep right except when passing", and yes, that means YOU! By the way, speeding up when someone attempts to pass you is illegal in most states as well as discourteous!
So what if someone passes you? Sometimes our instinctive competitive nature drives us be offended or get angry when someone passes us. I had an experience once that really put things into perspective for me. I was on a long trip with my Grandmother riding the front seat with me so I was being especially cautious. Even though I was driving the speed limit, the fellow behind me, who had been tailgating me for miles, got impatient and sped around me. I quipped: 'Go on, run ahead and spring the traps for me'. Not five miles later I passed the same vehicle where he had been pulled over by a state trooper. So sometimes letting people pass you is a really good thing! My teen age son once observed a fancy sports car weaving in and out of traffic for more than 50 miles on the freeway through Los Angeles and when they both coincidentally arrived at the same rock concert venue, the speeding Porche was only 2 cars ahead of him in line. He had to have used up a lot of extra fuel and put a lot of extra wear on his brakes and drive train for virtually nothing, to say nothing of the nerves of drivers around him and perhaps his passengers and his own.
Play nice!
Some drivers may try to justify their failure to pull over by claiming it is too hard and takes too long to get those big rigs moving again. It is true that getting back up to speed on steep hills is difficult, but in most situations there are alternating up and down hill stretches so pulling over at the top so you have gravity to help you get going faster down the other side or pulling over on a down grade or on the level is usually an option. And when it is not, the time you might lose pulling over and getting going again is nothing compared to what you would lose due to an accident from someone attempting to pass you -- or to how much of other drivers' time you're wasting.
On many mountain roads turn outs will be clearly posted and slower vehicles should use them whenever there are other vehicles behind them. Even when turn outs aren't posted, savvy drivers will look ahead and take advantage of places they can get over to let traffic get around them.
Some other things you can do to minimize your negative impact on other traffic includes reducing the amount of weight you're hauling. Lighten the load if/when you can. Periodically go through your RV and get rid of unnecessary items. If you are going to have a way to fill your water tank at your destination, bring along only what you'll use during the trip. Water is very heavy: 8 pounds per gallon. A 100 gallon tank will contain 800 pounds of water when full. You can probably get by with 5-10 gallons on the road, only 40-80 pounds. That saves you more than 700 pounds! Not only will you have better acceleration and climb hills with less effort, you may even save on gas. Think about it: 800 pounds is about 20-25% of the weight of an average car. Imagine what loading 1/4 of an extra car onto your daily driver would do to the gas mileage and acceleration!
When caravaning with other RVs leave plenty of space between rigs to give other drivers room to pass you one at a time. Try to signal other drivers when it is safe to pass by driving as close to the right shoulder as possible so they can see around you. If someone attempts to pass you when there is oncoming traffic, slow down and keep right to allow them to get around you as quickly as possible. NEVER accelerate when someone is trying to pass you and NEVER speed up when you reach a legal passing zone. RVs are not going to win the race, even if the vehicle passing you is a semi! Passing lanes are clearly marked "keep right except when passing", and yes, that means YOU! By the way, speeding up when someone attempts to pass you is illegal in most states as well as discourteous!
So what if someone passes you? Sometimes our instinctive competitive nature drives us be offended or get angry when someone passes us. I had an experience once that really put things into perspective for me. I was on a long trip with my Grandmother riding the front seat with me so I was being especially cautious. Even though I was driving the speed limit, the fellow behind me, who had been tailgating me for miles, got impatient and sped around me. I quipped: 'Go on, run ahead and spring the traps for me'. Not five miles later I passed the same vehicle where he had been pulled over by a state trooper. So sometimes letting people pass you is a really good thing! My teen age son once observed a fancy sports car weaving in and out of traffic for more than 50 miles on the freeway through Los Angeles and when they both coincidentally arrived at the same rock concert venue, the speeding Porche was only 2 cars ahead of him in line. He had to have used up a lot of extra fuel and put a lot of extra wear on his brakes and drive train for virtually nothing, to say nothing of the nerves of drivers around him and perhaps his passengers and his own.
Play nice!
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Avoiding Deer Strikes
Deer strikes? We're not talking about avoiding the picket lines of some animal collective bargaining boycott or an animal rights protest. We're talking about hitting -- or being hit by -- one or more of Bambi's buddies.
Many of our camping, RVing, and OHVing activities take us into or through the habitat of wild animals. Animals don't comprehend the danger presented by fast moving vehicles. The instinctive reactions they have developed to avoid predators over millenia are not effective against vehicles. In many cases their instinctive reactions put them in even more danger because moving vehicles behave very differently than predators. The dangers presented to motorists by deer and other animals crossing highways and trails is significant. Hitting a deer with a car -- or having your car hit by a deer -- can be an expensive and even life threatening situation. Not all deer strikes involve the driver hitting the deer. Sometimes the deer runs or jumps out in front of or into the side of the car. According to State Farm insurance, the odds of hitting a deer are about 1 in 116, far greater than I would have imagined.
There are "deer whistles" advertised that claim to emit a high frequency whistle at speeds over 30 mph that allegedly frighten the deer away. Sounds like a good idea, but do they really work? Anecdotal evidence suggests there may some value to them. I have used them on my motorhome for years and never hit a deer with it, but most of my motorhoming was in the desert where deer are not common. My dad, on the other hand, did most of his traveling in the forests of Oregon where deer abound. He said he noticed a significant reduction in the number of deer crossing in front of his motorhome after installing the devices. However, more extensive scientific research has not found any proof that they work. See http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/deerw.html. Even if they did work they would probably be ineffective at the slower speeds we often drive large RVs on forest roads and at the normal trail speeds of OHVs. Electronic version would supposedly work at any speed -- if they work at all. You might think, "It can't hurt" and, except for the fact that it might give the driver a false sense of security and a small reduction in his disposable funds, that is true.
The best way to avoid deer strikes is to avoid driving during periods when deer activity is high -- dawn and dusk. But don't assume you're safe at other times. While activity may be highest at those times, you may encounter deer crossing your path at ANY time. First, slow down in areas where there may be deer -- especially areas where deer crossing signs are posted. It will give you more reaction time if they jump out in front of you. Secondly, stay alert. Watch as far down the road as you can, scanning the trees on both sides of the road frequently for any movement in the trees or brush. This technique us also helpful when riding OHV trails in the forest or even in the desert. Deer may not be a likely problem in the desert but other OHV riders are. When visibility is restricted, by fog, snow, rain, vegetation, or narrow, twisting roads and trails, further reduce your speed. Reduced speed gives you more time to scan for hazards and longer reaction time to avoid them. You may be anxious to get to camp but, believe me, you'll get there faster by driving at a safe and steady speed than you will if you have an accident.
Deer's eyes reflect light. When driving at night watch for the yellow glow reflected by their eyes in the brush alongside the road. They are often fascinated by your headlights and may stop and stare right out you. The glow from their eyes may be easier to see than movement.
While is is certainly admirable to try to avoid hitting a wild animal, your safety and that of your family is far more important. You may also be concerned about damaging your vehicle. Never let worry about an animal or vehicle damage lead you to do something that risks your safety. Way too many people have suffered extensive and sometimes fatal accidents attempting to avoid hitting a wild animal. If you can safely avoid the collision, by all means do so. In addition to injuring or killing the animal, even hitting a small animal can cause significant damage to your vehicle and may cause you to lose control. I once unavoidably hit a rabbit that ended up doing nearly $1000 damage to the front of my car! Losing control due to hitting or trying to avoid hitting and animal can result in you and your your passengers being seriously injured or killed. Given that possibility, make YOUR safety your priority!
Don't strike out!
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Choosing a Campgroud
How do you go about choosing a campground that will be appropriate for your needs? To a large extent you can just pick a campground because you like it or because someone recommended it, it is convenient, or you have heard or read good things about it. Truly bad campgrounds are few and far between, so you can seldom go wrong. The most common complaints are noise (usually from traffic on nearby facilities or roads, sometimes from uncontrolled tenants or noisy neighbors) but sometimes you may encounter a poorly maintained facility and/or unpleasant management. The only real shield against that is checking out the parks beforehand as best you can. Look for online reviews or call local public park rangers or even law enforcement or check with local businesses or contact the Better Business Bureau. Members of the Good Sam Club can check the Good Sam or Trailer Life directories for ratings. Better yet, do a drive by and check it out yourself if you can. Generally you cant count on any campground rated as a "Good Sam Park" to have been well screened to ensure a quality experience. If you're on the road you may need to find an available spot as night time approaches so you might end up just taking your chances wherever you find a "VACANCY" sign, but is always good to plan ahead if you can. If you're new to RVing, OHVing, and/or camping, here are some things to help you figure out your best options. First of all, your camping life style will determine whether you need an RV park or a tent camping space. If you're in an RV, your need or desire for comforts and conveniences will dictate between boondocking or a full hook up campground. Some forest service campgrounds allow RVs, but don't have any hook ups so you'll have to be prepared to dry camp if you go there. Forest Service campgrounds also frequently have size limitations. Dry camping in a tent versus staying in a campground is less of a difference than dry camping in an RV compared to full hook ups, but you still need to consider whether you have the will and the equipment and supplies for remote camping. If you're staying in a campground you will probably have access to water and toilets. If you're camping in primitive "dispersed camping" areas, you won't. If you're into OHV riding, you will need to choose a location that gives you access to OHV trails. Often this means dry camping on open BLM lands where there are no existing facilities. Even though a majority RV buyers much prefer units that are self-contained something like 3/4 or more usually stay in developed campgrounds with hookups where they seldom use the self contained features.
How large is your group? If it's just your immediate family you'll probably only need one space but if you're group camping, you may need to reserve several spots and/or a group facility. If you're boondocking with a group you'll need to locate and stake a claim on a spot big enough for everyone you are expecting to join you. Designated campgrounds may require advance reservations for groups and you can usually request adjacent sites so you'll be near each other. When group camping in primitive areas it is best to get their early and stake out an area for your group before all the good spots are taken. This is especially important on holiday weekends where there will be a lot of competition for sites. We always tried to get out on Tuesday before Thanksgiving weekend be make sure we could stake out our favorite staging area for our Desert Rat group's annual "Turkey In The Dirt".
The kinds of activities you plan to enjoy will further refine your choices. If you're into water sports, you'll want to be close to a lake, beach, or marina. OHV riding usually means headed out to open BLM or forest service lands, but there are a few developed campgrounds with access to OHV trails. I spent a summer as an ATV mechanic at one such resort in Utah. If you are focusing on visiting specific historical sites, pick a campground that provides convenient travel to your various destinations. For example, Pinewoods Resort in Duck Creek Village, Utah, where I worked, has direct access to 500 miles of ATV trails and is centrally located between Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. For most of our dirt bike outings in southern California we dry-camped in open BLM camping areas in the Mojave Desert. As I recall there was one private RV park outside of California City that also catered to dirt bikers but most everyone dry camped in open camping areas. It may take some research to locate the perfect place for your needs. The good news is you'll probably have fun and enjoy yourself anywhere you camp. But over time you'll find some places you like better than others and will want to return often.
Campgrounds versus RV parks. Many, but not all, campgrounds include both tent camping spaces and RV spaces. Some may allow one or the other but not both. It isn't unusual to find forest service campgrounds that have RV restrictions. Some may not even accept them at all while others will have size restrictions. Private campgrounds may be limited by the size of their available spaces. Note that size restrictions are NOT arbitrary ways to harass RVers. They are usually based on legitimate physical restraints like the size of the spaces themselves or limitations on access roads. Long RVs in short spaces leave part of your rig extending out and blocking the road or parking on and damaging landscaping. Roads may be narrow or have sharp turns that don't accommodate rigs beyond a certain size. There may be weight, height, and width limits on bridges on access roads getting there. To avoid uncomfortable situations where you don't have anyplace to turn around and have to back out of untenable routes, pay attention to size restrictions, which are usually posted well in advance. Some RV parks don't have tent camping spaces and will not allow tents to be set up in RV spaces. Be sure you understand the available resources and any restrictions BEFORE you book a reservation or commit your plans to a particular location. When you roll in at midnight it is NOT the time to learn your rig isn't accepted or you can't set up your tent at your planned destination.
Boondocking or dry camping gives you a lot of choices. Many forest and BLM lands are open for dispersed camping, which means you can camp just about anywhere in the open areas. Others may allow camping only in designated areas. Still, if you are willing and able to camp without hookups, your options will be greatly expanded. There are seldom size restrictions on open camping areas although there may be size considerations on the roads getting there. If you ride OHVs it is likely dry camping in open areas will be the best if not the only way to have direct access to trails. When camping in open areas, try to take advantage of places others have already camped. This will usually make your setup easier as well as minimizing the impact on the environment. By using a previously used campsite someone else will have already found the most level spot and will probably have already built a rock fire pit. Don't know of any existing camp sites? Stop in and chat with the local BLM ranger. If you can't do that, look for tire tracks that lead off the road, then look for areas that have been previous used as indicated by disturbed vegetation and a primitive rock fire ring.
If you need or want hook ups be sure to check web sites or call ahead to confirm you can get what you need. Some RVs are wired for 50 amp electrical service. Older campgrounds may have only 30 amp electrical connections. Using an adapter you can still connect your 50 amp rig to a 30 amp pedestal, but you will only have 30 amps of power available so you won't be able to run multiple high-powered appliances (like air conditioners) at the same time. And, of course, you'll need to have an appropriate adapter so pick one up before you need it. If you really need to run both air conditioners at once on a large RV, make sure you have full 50 amp power or plan on running your generator when you need both air conditioners. Sewer and water connections are pretty standard at most locations that have hook ups and usually don't require special adapters. However, it is a good idea to carry a multi-size sewer adapter, just in case. If you are camping in freezing weather, bring along some heat tape to wrap your water hose AND the pipe all the way to the ground to prevent it from freezing. Tent campers usually don't need or can't use hook ups, but at least having water faucets and toilets available in a developed campground is a valuable consideration. During late season (fall) outings you may find restrooms have been closed and water shut off, so find out ahead of time so you can bring enough water to last as long as you plan to stay.
Primitive campgrounds are usually designed for tent camping but can sometimes accept small RVs. They won't usually have any kind of hookups but may have water available at shared community faucets to refill your fresh water tank. Be considerate of other campers and don't monopolize the faucet. Some primitive campgrounds will have flush toilets but many older sites will have only pit toilets inf they even have that. In "the old days" pit toilets were often very foul smelling and dirty. These days most are regularly pumped out and pressure washed and quite acceptable and far superior to digging your own latrine, but they'll still probably not be as pleasant as flush toilets or your own RV, especially on long weekends when they may get a lot of use between cleanings. Poor conditions in public toilets and showers is one of the reasons people like to have their own RVs.
Commercial RV parks and campgrounds often provide loads of activities and amenities, along with full hook ups. Ofttimes the additional conveniences are well worth the extra cost. These days you can check out most facilities on the Internet and read reviews from previous guests so you have a pretty good idea what to expect. If you still have questions, give them a call. Any reputable establishment will be happy to answer your questions.
Good Sam Parks. The Good Sam Club reviews thousands of campgrounds each year. Those that qualify as Good Sam Parks have to meet specific criteria of cleanliness, appeal, and functionality and offer a 10% discount to Good Sam Club members. Even if you're not a Good Sam member, the Good Sam Park rating ensures a quality and consistency of facilities and services for everyone.
Membership campgrounds offer free or discounted camping to folks who pay an annual membership fee. Membership camping is a good option for many people but you need to be sure you can and will make use of their facilities before you lay out a chunk of money for membership. Membership camping organizations have strict rules that govern availability, cleanliness, and functionality, delivering a high level of consistency among their member campgrounds. Some require advance reservations and may have "black out" dates so be sure you are properly prepared so you don't get turned away in the middle of a trip or be asked to pay unexpected extra fees.
Fire restrictions may be a serious concern, depending on location and season. During the fire season you can expect restrictions against open fires just about anywhere you go. So, if a campfire or bonfire is part of your plans, make sure you choose a campground where it will be allowed. Most forest service and many BLM areas will have posted Fire Danger signs. NEVER ignore a Fire Danger sign. They aren't just there to scare you or keep you from having fun! High Fire Danger designates a condition where fires are easily started and quickly spread. Even the heat from the catalytic converter on your vehicle exhaust system can ignite dry grass so stick to the roads when the fire danger is high.
Private versus public campgrounds. Your choice will probably be determined by other factors such as location, availability of spaces, and compatibility with planned activities. Sometimes you will find both private and public (government operated) campgrounds in the same area. Usually, but not always, private campgrounds will have more complete facilities and more amenities and will be more expensive. Public campgrounds, operated by various government agencies (city, county, state and federal), will usually have more limited resources since they are not profit-oriented and their budgets are often at least partially based on tax revenues. They usually don't have amenities to compete with private campgrounds. Make sure you compare the features as well as price when comparing campgrounds. Prices at campgrounds near major attractions, like national parks or theme parks, may be higher prided because of their location without providing any additional amenities. The convenience may be worth the additional cost but sometimes you will save money or gain features by driving just a little further.
Camp out!
How large is your group? If it's just your immediate family you'll probably only need one space but if you're group camping, you may need to reserve several spots and/or a group facility. If you're boondocking with a group you'll need to locate and stake a claim on a spot big enough for everyone you are expecting to join you. Designated campgrounds may require advance reservations for groups and you can usually request adjacent sites so you'll be near each other. When group camping in primitive areas it is best to get their early and stake out an area for your group before all the good spots are taken. This is especially important on holiday weekends where there will be a lot of competition for sites. We always tried to get out on Tuesday before Thanksgiving weekend be make sure we could stake out our favorite staging area for our Desert Rat group's annual "Turkey In The Dirt".
The kinds of activities you plan to enjoy will further refine your choices. If you're into water sports, you'll want to be close to a lake, beach, or marina. OHV riding usually means headed out to open BLM or forest service lands, but there are a few developed campgrounds with access to OHV trails. I spent a summer as an ATV mechanic at one such resort in Utah. If you are focusing on visiting specific historical sites, pick a campground that provides convenient travel to your various destinations. For example, Pinewoods Resort in Duck Creek Village, Utah, where I worked, has direct access to 500 miles of ATV trails and is centrally located between Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. For most of our dirt bike outings in southern California we dry-camped in open BLM camping areas in the Mojave Desert. As I recall there was one private RV park outside of California City that also catered to dirt bikers but most everyone dry camped in open camping areas. It may take some research to locate the perfect place for your needs. The good news is you'll probably have fun and enjoy yourself anywhere you camp. But over time you'll find some places you like better than others and will want to return often.
Campgrounds versus RV parks. Many, but not all, campgrounds include both tent camping spaces and RV spaces. Some may allow one or the other but not both. It isn't unusual to find forest service campgrounds that have RV restrictions. Some may not even accept them at all while others will have size restrictions. Private campgrounds may be limited by the size of their available spaces. Note that size restrictions are NOT arbitrary ways to harass RVers. They are usually based on legitimate physical restraints like the size of the spaces themselves or limitations on access roads. Long RVs in short spaces leave part of your rig extending out and blocking the road or parking on and damaging landscaping. Roads may be narrow or have sharp turns that don't accommodate rigs beyond a certain size. There may be weight, height, and width limits on bridges on access roads getting there. To avoid uncomfortable situations where you don't have anyplace to turn around and have to back out of untenable routes, pay attention to size restrictions, which are usually posted well in advance. Some RV parks don't have tent camping spaces and will not allow tents to be set up in RV spaces. Be sure you understand the available resources and any restrictions BEFORE you book a reservation or commit your plans to a particular location. When you roll in at midnight it is NOT the time to learn your rig isn't accepted or you can't set up your tent at your planned destination.
Boondocking or dry camping gives you a lot of choices. Many forest and BLM lands are open for dispersed camping, which means you can camp just about anywhere in the open areas. Others may allow camping only in designated areas. Still, if you are willing and able to camp without hookups, your options will be greatly expanded. There are seldom size restrictions on open camping areas although there may be size considerations on the roads getting there. If you ride OHVs it is likely dry camping in open areas will be the best if not the only way to have direct access to trails. When camping in open areas, try to take advantage of places others have already camped. This will usually make your setup easier as well as minimizing the impact on the environment. By using a previously used campsite someone else will have already found the most level spot and will probably have already built a rock fire pit. Don't know of any existing camp sites? Stop in and chat with the local BLM ranger. If you can't do that, look for tire tracks that lead off the road, then look for areas that have been previous used as indicated by disturbed vegetation and a primitive rock fire ring.
If you need or want hook ups be sure to check web sites or call ahead to confirm you can get what you need. Some RVs are wired for 50 amp electrical service. Older campgrounds may have only 30 amp electrical connections. Using an adapter you can still connect your 50 amp rig to a 30 amp pedestal, but you will only have 30 amps of power available so you won't be able to run multiple high-powered appliances (like air conditioners) at the same time. And, of course, you'll need to have an appropriate adapter so pick one up before you need it. If you really need to run both air conditioners at once on a large RV, make sure you have full 50 amp power or plan on running your generator when you need both air conditioners. Sewer and water connections are pretty standard at most locations that have hook ups and usually don't require special adapters. However, it is a good idea to carry a multi-size sewer adapter, just in case. If you are camping in freezing weather, bring along some heat tape to wrap your water hose AND the pipe all the way to the ground to prevent it from freezing. Tent campers usually don't need or can't use hook ups, but at least having water faucets and toilets available in a developed campground is a valuable consideration. During late season (fall) outings you may find restrooms have been closed and water shut off, so find out ahead of time so you can bring enough water to last as long as you plan to stay.
Primitive campgrounds are usually designed for tent camping but can sometimes accept small RVs. They won't usually have any kind of hookups but may have water available at shared community faucets to refill your fresh water tank. Be considerate of other campers and don't monopolize the faucet. Some primitive campgrounds will have flush toilets but many older sites will have only pit toilets inf they even have that. In "the old days" pit toilets were often very foul smelling and dirty. These days most are regularly pumped out and pressure washed and quite acceptable and far superior to digging your own latrine, but they'll still probably not be as pleasant as flush toilets or your own RV, especially on long weekends when they may get a lot of use between cleanings. Poor conditions in public toilets and showers is one of the reasons people like to have their own RVs.
Commercial RV parks and campgrounds often provide loads of activities and amenities, along with full hook ups. Ofttimes the additional conveniences are well worth the extra cost. These days you can check out most facilities on the Internet and read reviews from previous guests so you have a pretty good idea what to expect. If you still have questions, give them a call. Any reputable establishment will be happy to answer your questions.
Good Sam Parks. The Good Sam Club reviews thousands of campgrounds each year. Those that qualify as Good Sam Parks have to meet specific criteria of cleanliness, appeal, and functionality and offer a 10% discount to Good Sam Club members. Even if you're not a Good Sam member, the Good Sam Park rating ensures a quality and consistency of facilities and services for everyone.
Membership campgrounds offer free or discounted camping to folks who pay an annual membership fee. Membership camping is a good option for many people but you need to be sure you can and will make use of their facilities before you lay out a chunk of money for membership. Membership camping organizations have strict rules that govern availability, cleanliness, and functionality, delivering a high level of consistency among their member campgrounds. Some require advance reservations and may have "black out" dates so be sure you are properly prepared so you don't get turned away in the middle of a trip or be asked to pay unexpected extra fees.
Fire restrictions may be a serious concern, depending on location and season. During the fire season you can expect restrictions against open fires just about anywhere you go. So, if a campfire or bonfire is part of your plans, make sure you choose a campground where it will be allowed. Most forest service and many BLM areas will have posted Fire Danger signs. NEVER ignore a Fire Danger sign. They aren't just there to scare you or keep you from having fun! High Fire Danger designates a condition where fires are easily started and quickly spread. Even the heat from the catalytic converter on your vehicle exhaust system can ignite dry grass so stick to the roads when the fire danger is high.
Private versus public campgrounds. Your choice will probably be determined by other factors such as location, availability of spaces, and compatibility with planned activities. Sometimes you will find both private and public (government operated) campgrounds in the same area. Usually, but not always, private campgrounds will have more complete facilities and more amenities and will be more expensive. Public campgrounds, operated by various government agencies (city, county, state and federal), will usually have more limited resources since they are not profit-oriented and their budgets are often at least partially based on tax revenues. They usually don't have amenities to compete with private campgrounds. Make sure you compare the features as well as price when comparing campgrounds. Prices at campgrounds near major attractions, like national parks or theme parks, may be higher prided because of their location without providing any additional amenities. The convenience may be worth the additional cost but sometimes you will save money or gain features by driving just a little further.
Camp out!
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