Car Camping

Car camping has been mentioned in several posts.  So, what is car camping?  We're not talking about how some homeless people live in their cars nor some fictional outing by Lightning McQueen. What we are talking about is essentially either sleeping in your car or truck when camping or it is sometimes used to refer to just tent camping out of your car, using your car to get to the campground and using your car, truck, or SUV as an integral part of your camping equipment and not camping very far from your vehicle.  A vehicle can serve as a pantry, closet, bedroom, and shelter from bad weather as well as transportation.  With the addition of an attached tent it becomes a very stable part of your temporary domicile.  Your car radio can provide weather information and entertainment.  Just make sure you don't run your batteries down!  Of course the size and style of your car will play a significant role in how you can use it while camping.  A large SUV, van, or a pickup with a camper shell are generally the most flexible, providing the most options for transporting gear, sleeping, and living space, but even a compact car can get you in out of a severe rainstorm and running the heater could be one way to prevent hypothermia in cold weather.  Sleeping in a compact car may require developing some rather creative body positions that make yoga seem easy but larger vehicles can be quite comfortable.  I recall some Hudson and Nash sedans in the late 1950s that had an option called "sleeper seats".  The front seat backs fold down level with the rear seat cushion, creating a wall-to-wall bed.  We found it adequate for our family of 4 when I was a teenager.

In its simplest form, car camping is using your car or other vehicle to transport you, your companions and your camping equipment to you camp site and possibly sleeping in your car.   Other non-RV camping methods might include bike camping (bicycle or motorcycle), hiking, horseback, and back packing.   Car camping allows you to bring along larger, heavier equipment to make your stay more comfortable.  You usually only have to carry your equipment a few yards from your parking area to your camp site. Y ou can also use your vehicle as a secure storage facility while you're camping and as a refuge from particularly nasty weather.  You might have more room in your tent than your car, but your car may stay a lot warmer and drier in nasty weather.   One form of car camping is using your car or truck in lieu of a tent.   That works pretty well if you have a pickup, van, SUV, or station wagon, but can be kind of cramped if you're trying to sleep in the back seat of compact car.  If you're using a pickup having a camper shell, canopy, or truck tent -- or at least a tarp you can fasten over the bed -- will be helpful.  As mentioned above, some years ago, the now defunct American Motors offered "sleeper seats" in their Hudson and Nash sedans. The front backrests folded down flat next to the back seat to make a fairly comfortable full size bed inside the car. When I was a teenager my family took a trip to Yellowstone Park in a '57 Hudson and 4 of us slept in it.   Haven't seen anything like that for about 50 years!  The only complaint I had was that we didn't have screens for the windows and were attacked by voracious mosquitoes all night long.  By morning they sounded like B-52s buzzing inside the car!

Advantages of car camping include low cost, flexibility, and the ability to go just about anywhere. You can start small, with basic second-hand or rented equipment to see if you like it, then gradually upgrade as your needs and wants grow.  You don't need to buy, insure, maintain and store an extra vehicle.  You don't need a large parking space like you would for a motorhome or trailer.   You can usually store all your camping stuff in your garage or basement.  Apartment dwellers sometimes find space under the bed or in a closet.

The perceived disadvantages of car camping are usually focused on the lack of amenities found in RVs (weather protection, sturdy walls, comfortable beds, stand up head room, climate controls like furnaces and air conditioning, full service galleys, hot water, and private sanitation facilities plus many of the electronic entertainment options you have at home.  RVs are perceived as safer and more comfortable in foul weather.   Most people who move up to RVs from tent camping do so for the creature comforts and to avoid the hassle of setting up and taking down tents.   In reality, the only real disadvantages to car camping are the time it takes to set up and break camp, the greater impact of bad weather on your comfort, and perhaps the  lack of stand-up headroom for dressing and various other activities.  You also have to cook outside, which can be a problem in bad weather. 

 Car camping isn't a new concept.  Kits to turn your car into a sleeping area (See this Tentobed Company advertisement) and tents that attached to the side of a car like this one from The L.F. Shilling Company have been around a long time.   Note the vintage of the vehicles in these ads.  I put them both as pre-1920 models. I doubt if you'll find anything "designed to go on almost any standard car" these days and the lack of running boards would make these vintage models unusable without modifications.  You might add a roof top tent and camp ON your car.   Here are some rather high end examples:  roof top tents.  Truck and SUV tents are designed to fit in or on these vehicles to create extended living areas in camp.

Car camping allows you to bring along equipment that would be too heavy or too bulky for hiking and back packing.   For hike-in camping or backpacking the emphasis is on light weight and small size.  Car camping lets you bring along larger, heavier tents and warmer sleeping bags, bigger camp stoves, and other equipment to enhance your experience and add convenience to your outings. Car camping is especially well suited for larger groups.

To go car camping you'll need a car or other vehicle to transport you and your equipment.  Your equipment will probably include a tent, sleeping bag(s), camp stove, ice chest, flashlights, and water jugs.  Other camping accessories you might find useful include lanterns, camp chairs, and folding picnic tables.   An awning or canopy might be helpful in hot weather if the campsite is not shaded and can sometimes be used to keep the rain off, if it isn't raining too hard and there isn't too much wind.

A variation of car camping that often adds convenience and comfort is truck or SUV camping. This may involve the use of a tent that attaches to your truck or SUV.  Or you might sleep in the back of your SUV or in a truck tent or shell on the back of a pickup truck.  I have what they called a "carpet kit" for the back of my pickup.  Not only does it line the bed with carpeting for comfort and warmth, it's set of foam cushions can be configured into a sofa like seating area against the cab or spread out to form a wall-to-wall mattress covering the entire truck bed that is very comfortable to sleep on.   A shell lacks the stand-up headroom and the facilities of a slide-in camper, but it does keep the elements at bay and requires little or no setup in camp.   Truck and SUV tents are less effected by winds than stand-alone tents simply because they are securely anchored to your vehicle and the vehicle sometimes provides at least a partial wind block.  Sleeping in the back of your truck or SUV is usually warmer, more comfortable, and more secure than sleeping in a tent.  If it gets really cold you can always run the vehicle heater for a while to take the chill off -- just be sure any tent fabric is clear of the exhaust and the exhaust doesn't exit into or blow back inside the tent!  And don't run it enough to run out of gas.

You might enhance your car camping experience by adapting your car specifically for camping. You may want to fashion curtains or window coverings that will give you a little privacy and will help keep out unwanted light when you're trying to sleep.  If you frequent locations where mosquitos or other flying insects are a problem, you might want to make screen for the windows so can enjoy fresh air without the bugs.  If you're really ambitious, you might customize your trunk to organize your camping gear or turn it into a functional camp kitchen by building a "chuck box".    If you frequently attach a car tent or a canopy to your vehicle you might want to install permanent hooks to make it easier and more stable.   If I were planning on doing a lot of car camping, I'd look for an old Hudson or Nash 4 door sedan from the late 1950s because of the sleeper seat option they had, creating a comfortable sleeping area the full length of the interior that can accommodate up to 4 people.  Adapting any modern car to a similar configuration could be difficult.   You would have to start with something that has front seats than can be fully reclined.   Even then, the built in headrests in most modern cars would be in the way of folding the seat so it is completely flat. In the 1920s there was something called the Tentobed that created a sleeping area over top of the seats.  Even if you could build one today, it probably wouldn't be practical given the low clearance between the tops of the seat backs and the headliner.  Back in the 1970s and 1980s there were cots that fit over the front seats in van conversions that could sleep a small person but I haven't even seem them around for years.  Our pop-top camper had dual bunks in the pop top and we added a third one over the front seats as the family grew.   You might be able to fabricate your own to custom fit your vehicle using poles or pipes and canvas but finding appropriate mounting hardware may be difficult.  Metal (not plastic) closet rod end supports might work.   Here is a link to one possible online source:  canvas cot/bunk bed.  Measure your vehicle carefully to see if one of their standard cots will fit or can be easily adapted.  This is also a possible source for bunk rail mounts if you need them for your own home-made cots.  These cots might work in vans, trucks, and large SUVs but would probably not be very practical in modern passenger cars.  Even full size sedans have a pretty low profile with minimal head room.

Here is a link to another good description of car camping.

Pack up and go!

MORE Things For Campers To Do In Winter

It is that time of the year again.   Some folks winterize their RVs or pack their tents and gear away, and forget about camping until spring.  To each his own, but it doesn't have to be that way. T here are lots of camping-related things you can do to maintain your edge during winter months when most of us choose not to venture out a lot.  Make the most of that time between bouts of shoveling snow!

Of course, if you are active in winter sports, you may want to prepare your RV or tent for winter camping and keep right on going out.   An RV makes a very comfortable mobile chalet for skiing, sledding, and snowmobiling.   But you'll have to make sure everything is freeze protected.   If you're just doing day trips you can run the generator and use electric heaters to keep your fresh water, holding tanks, and plumbing from freezing.  Few exterior compartments are insulated.   Running the generator over night is not a good idea.  Any malfunction in the exhaust or a breeze blowing in the wrong direction could bring carbon monoxide into your RV while you sleep and you'd NEVER wake up again -- EVER!  Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless.  It is know as the "silent killer".  Tent camping in winter is more of a challenge.  Of course, climbers on Mt. Everest live in tents in far more severe conditions than we're likely to face camping, but I'm sure they are not as warm or comfortable as we like to be.   A tent with a full length rain fly will provide a little extra protection from winter weather.  Some folks even sew an extra skirt onto the rain fly so it goes all the way to the ground to prevent snow from blowing up between it and the inner tent wall.  A good ground cloth is essential. For added warmth, cut a piece of bubble foam insulation to use underneath your sleeping bags.  I put a couple of old sleeping bags to good use.   I unzipped one and put it underneath our regular sleeping bags . The other one (unzipped) was placed over two sleeping bags.   We stayed quite warm and comfortable in spite of having set up the tent on a deep snow base and sub-freezing outside temperatures that night.

Winter is a good time to inventory, inspect, repair, and update your camping equipment and supplies.   Go through your RV cabinets and camping tubs.  Remove any provisions that might be susceptible to freeze damage or are outdated.  Get rid of superfluous items you might have collected along the way.  Clean your equipment and make any necessary repairs.  Things like camp stoves and lanterns often get put away at the end of a trip without a really detailed cleaning, so now is a good time to open them up and really go through them.  Stoves and and lanterns that use white gas should be drained and the lines blown out to avoid clogging the orifices when the gas deteriorates.  Clean the glass globes on your lanterns.  They do get smokey over time.  Yes, all the disassembly and cleaning is a little tedious, but you'll enjoy using them even more next season and keeping them clean will extend their useful lifetime.  Repair tents, awnings, camp chairs, canopies, sleeping bags, and packs. Check local camping stores and departments and online for end of season sales and stock up on items you want, need, or use frequently.

Winter is a also good time to review last season's activities and go over your notes to see what changes you need/want to make in your equipment, tools, supplies, and activities and begin planning for next year.  Research new destinations and routes you might want to try out.  Look up additional information about your favorite places.  You may be surprised how much historical or geographic information you can find.   I had wondered about the history of an old, abandoned railroad water tower near one of our favorite desert dirt bike staging areas for years and finally tracked down its history and learned there were plans to move it to railroad museum in a town some miles away.  I found out the tower was once part of a little town that was a stop on the famous 20 Mule Team route.  You can use your off-season time to learn more about the flora and fauna of your favorite camping spots and that can add interest, entertainment, and education to your next visit.   If you can't find what you're looking for on the Internet, try contacting the local ranger station.

Catch up on your laundry.  We sometimes forget about the towels and linens in our RVs and camping tubs until they become too soiled or smelly to use.   Even if they seemed OK the last time you used them, they may have well developed some mold, mildew or other unpleasant odors in storage.  Winter is a good time to take everything out and wash it.  While you're at it check all items for any needed repairs and take care of those too -- or retire unusable articles to the rag bag.   Don't forget the dish towels in the galley or the wash cloth hanging in the shower.  You may have a favorite sweatshirt or jacket in the closet that could use a good washing after several evenings chopping wood and sitting in the smoke from the campfire.   Unused items in the closet may have absorbed some of the odors from that sweatshirt or jacket so they may need be washed too, even if they haven't been worn.  Having everything fresh and clean your next outing will be fun.  Now is a good time to wash sleeping bag liners and take your sleeping bags to the cry cleaners so they'll be fresh for next year.  When you're done, toss the used dryer sheets into closets or drawers to help keep pests away.

Shampoo carpets and upholstery in your RV.   They'll have plenty of time to dry before your next outing in the spring.  Cleaning them now may also help prevent spills from developing into unpleasant masses of fungus or mold over the winter.  If you have leather driver and passenger seats, clean them with saddle soap and rub them vigorously with leather balm.  It will keep the leather soft and pliable and keep your seats looking like new for a long time.   Leather wipes from your auto supply store will also work for occasional cleanups, but won't provide the same deep cleaning and conditioning.  Repair any holes or tears in upholstery before they get bigger.

Clean your tents, canopies, and sleeping bags.   Tents and canopies can usually be set up and scrubbed with a sponge or brush and soapy water, then rinsed and let dry.   You might want to restore the water repellant after a thorough cleaning as some detergents may weaken or remove the water repellant treatment.   Camp Dry or a similar spray on waterproofing product can be used on tents, awnings, and even footwear and clothing.  Be sure to repair any holes or rips.  Some sleeping bags can be machine washed. If you don't know for sure, to be on the safe side, send them to the dry cleaners.  When you get them back, don't roll them tightly.   Doing so compresses the filling and destroys the "loft" that keeps you warm and comfortable.  Hang them up or store them folded or put them into "stuff" sacks.  Dry cleaning machine washable bags may help prevent clumping of fill.

If your activities include OHVs or horses you will want to inspect and service your gear.  Dirt bikes and ATVs should be properly stored -- change the oil so they aren't sitting with contaminated oils all winter that can etch metal parts.   Drain the fuel system.   Lubricate all the cables and other moving parts.  You horseback riders can take time to thoroughly clean your tack with saddle soap and rub it with leather conditioner to keep it supple and looking good.   Clean out your saddle bags and get them ready for next summer.  Freshen your bedroll.  Go through all your riding gear.   Make sure it is clean and in good repair for your next outing.  While you're at it, check your horses' shoes and decide when you need to schedule the farrier to come and give them new ones.  If you prefer natural hoof care, clean and trim the hooves.

Inventory, inspect, clean, and organize your tools.  Sharpen axes, hatchets, and knives.  Not only do sharp tools work better they're safer to use.  Repair or replace any broken tools.  Replacing missing tools.  Things like sockets and the various tips for power drill/drivers seem to get lost easily. If you keep them logically organized you'll be able to detect AWOL items so you can replace them now instead of cursing their disappearance when later in camp when replacements are way out of reach.

Seek additional sources of camping and survival information and training.   Take advantage of the many free resources on the Internet.  Watch TV schedules for outdoor shows or history/science channel episodes relevant to where you like to go and what you like to do.   Check out some local camping, OHV, or RV clubs and see if you want to get more involved with them.  They often have winter gatherings where you can meet some of the people and learn about the club activities.   You might even find some local adult ed or community college classes (like auto repair) that may be of interest.   Renew or upgrade your first aid and CPR training or seek out a wilderness survival class. 

Do some shopping for camping gear.  Being what is normally the off season for camping you may be able to snag some good deals.  Watch for clearances or year end sales at sporting goods stores and department stores starting in mid summer and into the fall and winter.  Check ebay for items you've been looking for.  Even private party prices may be low so check your classifieds, ebay, and craigslist.

Practice your Dutch oven cooking.  You don't have to go camping to whip up a Dutch oven dinner. Now is a good time to try out some new recipes.  You can set up your Dutch oven on the patio or deck or maybe even on the balcony of an apartment.  If using it on a balcony or deck, be sure to put it on a fireproof or at least heat resistant surface.  If something goes wrong with your Dutch over dinner at home, you can always make a McDonald's run and try again later.   Better to get the bugs out now than do battle with them in camp or during an emergency at home.

Stay active!  Don't just sit around all winter.  You'll want to be in good physical shape for next season, so hit the gym or do some regular exercises at home.   Pushing the buttons on the remote control and lifting a can of your favorite beverage to your lips does NOT count as exercise!

Maintain your edge!

Weird (and not so weird) Camping Tips

Here are some weird and some not-so-weird tips I came across that I thought I would share. Some are actually helpful; some are just fun -- or funny.

Stop the Itch.  ou can stop the itch of mosquito and other insect bites using a variety of common things you probably already have on board your RV or in your camping kit.   The one that surprised me the most was toothpaste.   It needs to be paste, not gel.  Just dab some on a bite and, presto! Instant relief from sting and itch.  Another dental based solution: Oragel or a similar toothache medication will kill the sting AND numb the bite.  Another odd one is automobile starting fluid.  Just a quick spray on the affected area quickly takes out the itch and burn in an instant.  The active ingredient in many "bite sticks" and anti-itch medications is ammonia.   Instead of paying several dollars for a pen-sized stick dispenser, pick up a whole bottle of ammonia at your local dollar store to refill your bite stick or use directly.  It can also be used for a number of household cleaning tasks. Another way to kill the itch and burn of bee stings is with a plain old aspirin tablet.  Wet the sting and rub the aspirin on it.   Baking soda is also a familiar folk remedy that actually works on many insect bites.  In a survival situation, plain old mud will help stop the stinging and itching.  No mud?  Spit in the dirt to make some.  Other bodily fluids might be used in a pinch, but are less appealing.

Some more weird sting/bite remedies.  A paste made from meat tenderizer and water will quickly take the "ouch" out of bee stings.  As mentioned above, a little bit of ordinary mud will usually ease the itch and swelling of mosquito and other insect bites.  It is said the relief is instant.

Don't be a sap.   Or at least don't stay sappy if you get that way.  Getting sap on your hands is a common problem when camping and handling firewood.   Rub it with some mayonnaise and the sap will come right off.  It might also work to get sap off tent fabric and window screens.  Then all you have to do is find a way to get rid of the mayonnaise (but its not nearly as sticky).

I'm am told that peanut butter will get chewing gum out of your hair.   Of course, if you spit it out your gum before you go to bed you probably won't get it in your hair in the first place.

Camp clothespins.   Save the plastic clips from bread bags and use them to secure your clothes, towels, etc to your clothesline in camp.  They are small and very light weight so they won't take up much room.  You can probably get about 50 of them into a 35mm film can.

Waterproof your matches.  Some folks suggest dipping stick matches in wax to waterproof them. Others say that over time the wood will still absorb moisture that will be trapped by the wax and render the matches useless, even when they haven't gotten wet.  You can also try dipping the tips in fingernail polish.  The idea behind both of these suggestions is to try to seal the head of the match against moisture.  However, to really be sure your matches will work in wet weather, keep them in a waterproof container -- not just a plastic sandwich bag, but a waterproof match case designed for the purpose.  They aren't expensive and don't take up much room.   Match cases are usually about 3/4" in diameter and 2 1/2" long.   They come in plastic or stainless steel.   Both have a rubber O-ring to seal out moisture when the lid is screwed down tight.  While you're at it, make sure you stock "strike anywhere" matches for camping.   The "strike on box" versions are a little safer around small children, but not very convenient for starting campfires if you don't have the box handy.  Be careful where you strike them. Do NOT strike them on the rocks in your fire ring if you have doused your wood with an accelerant like charcoal starter or gasoline.   I've seen people strike matches using their thumbnail while holding the match firmly in the same hand.   My grandfather used to do that all the time.   While that works, it is also a good way to burn your hand, especially if your fingers are stiff from the cold and you can't move the burning match quickly, which may be a problem if your hands are cold or if you have arthritis -- or if you simply aren't used to doing it.  This reminds me of a trick in the movie Lawrence of Arabia where Lawrence holds a burning match between his thumb and finger until it goes out.   When a soldier tries to duplicate the trick he quickly burns his fingers, curses, drops the match and tells Lawrence "That hurts!  There is some trick to it". Lawrence replies "The trick,by dear fellow, is not minding that it hurts!".  Another questionable trick I've seen is striking them on your zipper or even along the leg of your jeans.   Seems like a good way to get your pants on fire.  When people talk about "hot pants" I don't think that is what they have in mind!

Ordinary cooking oil works well to remove the residue from many adhesive stickers.  WD40 is also a pretty good solvent for removing grease and oil from hands and clothes and many other surfaces.  My favorite goo remover is a product called "Goo Gone".

When camping, always wear a long-sleeved shirt.  It gives you something to wipe your nose on. On the more serious side, it will protect you from sunburn and insect bites and you'll probably be cooler in a loose fitting long-sleeved shirt than in a t-shirt or tank top on hot days. Direct sunlight on skin can be excruciating.  Long sleeved, loose fitting clothing allows a shady place for perspiration to evaporate and cool you down.

Laundry (dryer) lint makes good tinder/fire starter.  You'll see this suggestion in lots of places. Unfortunately, it is only partially true.  Cotton lint (from blue jeans or cotton t-shirts) WILL make good fire starter.   Lint from synthetic fabrics WON'T.   Synthetic lint tends to melt rather than burn. A sure-fire tinder (pun intended) that works well with matches or even flint and steel is 100% cotton balls.  Again, avoid the synthetic "cosmetic puffs".   Someone suggested using naval lint as tinder -- just be sure to remove it from your naval before igniting it!  I think you'll need a pretty big navel -- or lots of them -- to get enough to be of much use for anything but a fire piston.  In a survival situation you might find enough lint in your pockets to serve as tinder, but I'd a lot rather have a couple of cotton balls in my pack or pocket.  Navel lint might be useful in a fire piston,which uses only a tiny bit of tinder.

Rubbing the inside of an orange peel on your exposed skin is said to keep mosquitoes away.   And it usually smells better than chemical repellants and its free if you already have oranges to eat.

A potato baked in the coals for one hour makes an excellent side dish.  A potato baked in the coals for three hours makes an excellent hockey puck.  I can personally attest to the former; I haven't tried the latter but I'm betting it too is true.

A frisbee makes a pretty good make-shift paper plate holder.  Plates may not fit quite as securely as they do in holders designed for the purpose, but a frisbee is just about the right size to add much needed support when you have heavy food on a flimsy plate.  And you can have fun with it after your meal.   Just don't toss it into the fire along with your paper plate.   And make sure your dog doesn't try to grab it out of your hand before you finish eating or its "bye-bye" dinner!

To keep batteries from running down if the switch on a flashlight in storage gets bumped and turned on, put one of the batteries in backwards.   That keeps the batteries with the flashlight and it won't come on as long as one of the batteries is reversed.  Chances are an ordinary incandescent flashlight will still work -- and run down the batteries -- if you put ALL the batteries in backwards. LED lights are often more sensitive to polarity.   They usually only work when the batteries are installed with correct polarity within the flashlight.

More or less unrelated question:  why is it the people you see in lingerie stores are people you wouldn't want to see in lingerie?  Apply that to camping and you may understand another reason to stick with loose fitting, long sleeved shirts and pants instead of tank tops and shorts!

Tip off!

Physical Fitness and Camping

Camping can create both a demand for and a way to improve your physical fitness.   First of all, you'll want to be in fairly good physical condition to even go camping to start with.   That doesn't mean you have to have to bench press 450 lbs or do 100 chin ups, but if you have any existing problems (shortness of breath, muscle/tendon/ligament damage, morbid obesity, heart problems etc, you'll want to get them under control and obtain the approval of your physician before you set out into the wild.  Putting yourself in a potentially stressful situation under poor health conditions is a sure recipe for trouble.  On the other hand, some of the activities associated with camping can actually be pretty good exercise -- if you're up to it and do it right.   I found that my first day dirt biking after a month or so of no riding left me with the conclusion that I should either be doing a lot less of it -- or a lot more!  I'd sure rather be doing a lot more.   After a few days on my dirt bike I was feeling pretty good -- and even had to take my belt in a few notches.  Hiking is another popular companion activity to camping.  It is good exercise and you can usually control how vigorous you want to be.  One general rule:  don't over do it!  No matter what your choice of activities might be, you'll probably be tempted to over extend yourself, especially the first day or two out, and that can be dangerous.  Over doing it is one of the most common causes of injury.  You may strain muscles or may simply lose focus and get yourself in trouble.  Ease into it so you can enjoy it without unnecessary risk of injury.  Regardless of what kind of physical activity you choose, you will  usually benefit from doing some warm up stretches before getting started.  The more rigorous the activity, the more important warmups are.  If you're going to be involved in physically demanding activities, such has hiking, horseback riding, or OHV riding, ease into it.  Most of us don't get to participate in our favorite activities as much was we'd like so when we do get to go out we can usually benefit from easing into it, even though we're usually so happy to be doing it we just plunge right in.  It both helps you to warm up, to rebuild you confidence, and refresh muscle memory.

Many times, the activities associated with camping provide exercise that exceeds what we get at home.   That is a two-edged sword.  Extra activity can help us build muscle and burn calories.  Both good things, if you don't overdo it.    Embarking on extra strenuous adventures if we aren't physically up to it can lead to further problems, ranging from sore muscles to delayed healing of existing injuries to making things a lot worse, sometimes even to the point of serious injuries or even death!  Don't jump into any kind of physically demanding activities without proper preparation and, if you have any existing health problems, check with your doctor before beginning too.  Then ease into activity.  If your goal is to climb a mountain, start by climbing a few smaller hills until you build up your strength and stamina.  If you're badly out of shape, start by taking some short walks on level ground and work your way up until you can reach your goal.  If you ride OHVs and haven't been out for a while, spend the first day or so taking some fairly easy rides to reacquaint your body (and your mind) with the demands of trail riding.  Yeah, it can be a lot like riding a bicycle, but you'll still be glad you took some time to get used to it again.  Most activities require good flexibility,  balance, and control as well as strength.

If, your regular routine tends to lean toward the couch potato or your job forces you into sitting all day long, you are probably not be getting enough daily exercise.  Camping can provide an opportunity for exercise, but be careful to ease into it so you don't strain muscles or become injured. A common quote among exercise enthusiasts is "no pain, no gain".  While there may be some truth to that, too much pain is definitely not good for you!   Pain is your body's way of saying "whoa!"  Too much pain will ultimately result in a loss of strength, flexibility, and weight control as it forces you to be even less active.   Pain is a warning that you are doing something you shouldn't be doing.   A little discomfort after physical exercise may substantiate the "no pain, no gain" theory, but acute or chronic pain signals something is wrong!  Continuing to "work through it" may result in more damage.  Pain can also cause you to be over cautious or distract you, either one of which can result in making your situation worse.  It is normal to experience a little muscle fatigue when doing  unfamiliar tasks, but if the pain becomes acute, take a break before you break something!

If you continue to enjoy a more sedentary lifestyle in camp, you may still benefit from some gentle exercises during your stay.   You don't have to go mountain climbing, mountain biking, horseback riding, hiking, or riding an OHV.  Some easy activity around camp will help.   Exercise helps maintain energy.  Walking (or perhaps some easy hiking) is usually a good way to get some exercise without the potential negative impact of running or other strenuous acts. Just taking a gentle stroll around the campground can be beneficial and might be a good place to start if you're out of shape.   If you find yourself getting out of breath quickly during any exercise or activity you should probably back off.  Shortness of breath is likely a symptom that you're out of shape or have a condition that should be treated by a doctor before continuing.  I once began a regimen of jogging.  At first I couldn't go more than 20-30 yards before I started getting winded but within a couple of weeks I was doing twice around the block without having to slow down or even breathing hard.

Altitude can have a significant affect on physical performance.   The amount of oxygen available in the air and therefore in your bloodstream decreases as you climb higher and higher.   Symptoms of altitude sickness include dizziness, nausea, feeling tired, and general weakness.  You can combat altitude sickness by acclimating yourself on your way to your destination.  Stop for a day or two at a location between your home and significantly different destination elevations.  Going directly from sea level to 9,000 feet is a pretty sure cause for altitude sickness.   If you live at, say 4000 feet, climbing from 4,000 to 9,000 won't be as bad.   Getting from sea level to 4,000 feet probably won't even produce any symptoms in most healthy people.  A little preparation along the way can save a lot of suffering.  Stop overnight at intermediate elevations if you can.  Once you reach your destination, some easy exercises may help you adjust more quickly before you launch into any full blown extreme sports.  Many people don't realize that any change in altitude can have a negative effect on your whole body.  While it is most commonly associated with moving to higher altitudes, going to lower altitudes where the ambient air pressure is higher can also cause problems.  I grew up at an altitude of about 4,000 feet and for many years I could tell almost immediately when I returned to that altitude.  I just felt better and could even breathe easier than I did even  near sea level.

Stretching exercises and other warmups are a good way to prepare for just about any active endeavors.   Doing some easy stretches before mountain biking, dirt biking, hiking, or horseback riding will warm up your muscles and reduce the potential for injury.   Stretching helps improve flexibility and give you a greater range of motion, both of which are very helpful when engaged in strenuous activities.  Proper preparation is even more important if you're not normally used to doing those activities.   I've also found that doing warm ups helps reduce fatigue.  Not going to be biking, hiking, or riding?  You may still benefit from doing some warmups before tackling routine tasks around camp.  Chopping wood is probably more demanding than the things most of us do at home. Even climbing RV ladders to retrieve camp chairs from the roof pod or bending over to get them out of your car or from under your vehicles could strain cold muscles.   That said, I recently read an article that listed stretching as a myth that wasn't really necessary.  However, relying on the anecdotal evidence of personal experience, I find some light stretching prior to things like riding my dirt bike, hiking, climbing, or chopping wood, makes me feel more comfortable, I'm slower to get tired, and less likely to have aching muscles afterwards.   So, even it it tends to be overrated by some enthusiasts, it still has value and shouldn't be abandoned.  A good rule of thumb is "moderation in all things."

When I was in Air Force Reserve they promoted an exercise program called 5BX -- Five Basic Exercises.  It was originally developed by a doctor for the Canadian Air Force.  It doesn't require any special equipment or even special clothing and can be done anywhere in 11 minutes a day.  I still try to use it regularly today (I'm now 77) to keep strong and healthy and currently maintain the level designed for 45-49 old men.   And it can be done while camping just as easily as it can be done at home.  I added one extra exercise:  half squats.  I originally added them to address some knee issues I was having but soon recognized I was building up extra strength for standing up wearing my heavy fire department SCBA so now they are part of my daily routine.

Staying hydrated is a very important part of preparing for physical activities.  We tend to think more about staying hydrated during hot weather, but it is also important when it is cooler, even when participating in winter sports.  Even in cold weather, respiration and perspiration will deplete necessary body fluids and electrolytes.  If you find yourself unusually tired and "wiped out", it could be a sign of dehydration.  Drink plenty of water.  You may also find it helpful to supplement your fluid intake with sports drinks like Gatorade and Powerade, which contain electrolytes to replace those you lose through perspiration, but be aware, many of these contain significant amounts of sugar too.  You will also need to maintain proper hydration during your activities so bring water with you.  I like to use a Camelbak  hydration pack for dirt biking, hiking, and horseback riding.  It is a convenient way to take frequent sips of water as needed to stay hydrated.

Get fit, stay fit!

Emergency Preparedness

What does emergency preparedness have to do with RVs, OHVs, and camping?   First of all, you could experience a breakdown or get lost or stranded while camping and that could put you in an emergency survival mode.  In fact, being in an unfamiliar location and involved in activities outside of your normal routine will increase your chances of having a mishap.  Secondly, as I've mentioned in other posts, our RVs and camping equipment and training can come in very useful during an emergency at home.   I consider my motorhome more than just an RV (Recreational Vehicle), it is a "DRV" -- Disaster Recovery Vehicle and we have used it as such more than once.   Tents and other camping equipment could literally be life-saving during an emergency.   OHVs may be your only way to escape from a dangerous situation near your home.  Earthquakes, fires, tornadoes and other storm related problems may make roads impassable to ordinary passenger cars.  Many types of large scale disasters disable utilities.   There could be no water, no electricity, no natural gas, for days, weeks, or even months.  What are you going to do if that happens to you?  Every camping trip is an opportunity to practice one or more of your survival skills.  Take advantage of them.  Choose at least one skill to exercise each time you go out.  Perhaps make it a habit to start your campfire with flint and steel instead of matches or a lighter.  You also need to be prepared for emergencies in camp and on the trail when access to normal emergency services may be limited or delayed.

Emergency Preparedness takes many forms.  We usually think of it as related to getting ready for some kind of potential natural disaster such as an earthquake, hurricane, or tornado, but could be needed for other, man-made situations as well, such as terrorist attacks.  Those who take it to the extreme are sometimes known as "preppers" and go to great lengths to prepare for TEOTWAWKI -- The End Of The World As We Know It and are usually considered extremists or wackos.  On the other hand, taking reasonable precautions to protect yourself and your family from likely emergencies just makes good sense.  A retired Navy seal said "Destiny favors the prepared in mind, body, and spirit." 

"You are the only First Responder you can really count on."  I found this quote on offgridsurvival.com and I couldn't agree more.  When something bad happens, your emergency services organizations, like police, fire department, ambulances, and hospitals, are going to be overwhelmed.  As a volunteer firefighter I can assure you that is absolutely true.  You WILL be on your own for at least the first 1-3 days, perhaps even for a couple of weeks or longer, depending on where you live and how bad the disaster is.  You might have good neighbors who can help you out, but as for me, I would rather be the helpful neighbor than one who is struggling.  Our neighborhood was without electricity for about a day after the 1994 Northridge earthquake in California.   Some areas of New York were without power for many days following hurricane Sandy.  We were without power for 2 weeks following the Holiday Farm fire in Oregon.  In southern California, being without power was inconvenient and a lot of people lost food in their inoperative refrigerators and freezers.  We were able to use our RV generator to keep our refrigerator and freezer working.  A long term power failure in northern climates in winter could result it frozen pipes, a lot of expensive repairs, and even the possibility of freezing to death.  You need to know what to do NOW when a disaster strikes. Your life and those of your family and neighbors may literally depend on what you do in the first hours after a disaster.  Most people will be hopelessly unprepared and are likely to panic.  You will see a couple of different responses to panic in your associates (or yourself): random, aimless, useless actions (running around like a chicken with its head cut off) or freezing (being unable to to do anything.)  Neither of these responses is in any way productive. One of the first natural human reactions is denial ("This can't be happening!").  You have to get past the denial -- and get your associates past it -- before you can move on with productive actions to deal with the situation.  Once you have accepted that it IS happening, you can begin to plan what to do about it.  One of the best programs I have seen to prepare people to be their own first responders -- and first responders for their neighbors -- is the Community Emergency Response Team (C.E.R.T.) program.  Helping your neighbors is a good way to improve your own mental state in a disaster situation in addition to providing much needed aid to them.

The Community Emergency Response Team (C.E.R.T.) concept originated in earthquake prone southern California but has been adopted by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) for use nationwide in any community disaster situation. C.E.R.T. training prepares you to handle most emergencies in your neighborhood or workplace during the critical initial hours or days when normal emergency service will be overwhelmed or even completely disabled. Local C.E.R.T. programs usually focus on the kinds of events that are most likely to occur in your area, with general training that can be applied in almost any disaster situation.  The overall mental preparation will also be valuable in wilderness survival situations should you get lost or your vehicle breaks down and leaves you stranded.

Camping emergencies.   Some people consider it an "emergency" when they run out of ice, beer, sodas, or potato chips, but the real camping emergencies you need may have to deal with are more likely to involve illness or injuries or an accident or a vehicle failure or unusual weather that leaves you lost, stranded, injured, or isolated.  Many activities associated with camping take us out of our normal routines, which is why we go camping in the first place.  But in doing so, it makes us vulnerable to illness and injuries we might not normally experience at home.   Having proper first aid training and supplies can mitigate a lot of these situations.  Another potential problem could be getting stranded if your OHV or RV breaks down.  Can you effect temporary repairs?  Do you have enough supplies in camp to last an extra day or two while you wait for assistance?   Can you handle minor emergencies on the trail or in camp?  Do you know when and how to call for professional help? Are you prepared to deal with unusual weather?  Can you make on-the-spot emergency repairs to camping equipment and vehicles?  If you area hiker or an OHV rider, are you prepared to take care of yourself overnight if you somehow get stranded away from camp?  I carry a "space blanket" and a flint and steel in my dirt bike tool kit, just in case.

Some parts of the world are more susceptible to natural disasters than others.  California, with its San Andreas Fault, is famous for earthquakes.  Kansas, Oklahoma, and other plains states are in Tornado Alley.  Hurricanes pound the east and gulf coasts of the United States several times every year.  Winter storms plague northern parts of the United States and other countries in the northern hemisphere.  Wildfires plague many Western States every summer.  Typhoons strike in the Pacific.  It would be difficult to identify an area that could be totally safe from all natural disasters.  Add to that the propensity for man-made catastrophes and no one is safe!  Any railroad or highway could be considered a hazardous materials route.  An incident on board a passing freighter could jeopardize even the most remote island. Fortunately, modern safety regulations and precautions allow hazardous loads to pass through our communities every day without incident.   But all it would take is one mechanical failure or one human error to release tons of hazardous materials into our neighborhoods.   I once had to evacuate my suburban home due to a chlorine gas cloud.  A fork lift operator in a supply center had accidentally clipped the valve on a very large chlorine tank.  Thousands of people had to be evacuated because of the leak.  Remember that sharp smell at the community swimming pool?   In the higher concentration of the chlorine gas cloud it was deadly!  So, even if you live in a location that has very few natural concerns you could still be downwind or downstream from a chemical or biological disaster in a local factory or on a highway or railway.  Following the dramatic explosion of a fertilizer plant in Texas a few years ago we learned there was a similar fertilizer plant in our own neighborhood we didn't even know was there before and that it was close enough that an event there could easily shatter the windows in our homes.  Did you know that the main ingredient in commercial fertilizers (nitrogen) is also the main ingredient in high explosives?   I'll bet the people in Texas know that -- now!  You never know what you might have to deal with.  BTW, our atmosphere is about 78% nitrogen -- so why doesn't it blow up?  It is because the basic nitrogen molecule (N2) is "unusually stable" while compounds containing nitrogen together with potassium or sodium are highly unstable.  The sulfate of ammonia fertilizer you use for quick greening of  your lawn is pretty safe by itself but can become explosive when combined with ceertain other chemicals.  Ammonium nitrate, on the other hand, is always pretty unstable.

How do you prepare for emergencies?  First you need to figure out what kind of emergencies you are most likely to strike your location.  How you prepare your home for earthquakes is different from what is needed to protect you from tornadoes.  Once you have identified the most likely scenario or scenarios, learn everything you can about mitigating damage from those events.  In earthquake zones you need to anchor heavy furniture and hot water heaters so they don't tip over.  In tornado country you need a safe haven that can resist the unbelievably powerful winds.  Under ground is best.  If no underground shelter is available move to an inside bathroom or closet with no windows to wait out the storm.  Bathrooms are a particularly good choice.  Their small size combined with the added strength of plumbing improves their stability.   In hurricane territory you may need to stock materials to board up your house against the winds and ensure the roof is connected with hurricane-proof straps.  In addition to attempting to mitigate damage to your home, you should be planning on how YOU will survive, possibly for several weeks, without an outside source of food, water, fuel, and medical services.  That is where your RV and camping experience and equipment and training comes in.  Your OHVs may also play an important role should you be forced to evacuate or could be used to transport messages between your family and emergency services agencies.  ATVs and UTVs are often used by search and rescue teams to locate and transport victims to safety.

I strongly urge EVERYONE to get C.E.R.T. training.  Over the years I've taken the course more than eight times to maintain my certification and improve my skills.  Each time I learn something new.  I don't know of any other program that will give you so much preparation in such a short time. C.E.R.T. classes usually consist of about 8-10 weeks of 4-hour classes one night a week, including a realistic exercise at the end of the course where you get a chance to practice what you've learned. Contact your local fire department to get into their next class.  Sometimes the class is free. Sometimes they charge a nominal fee to cover the costs of all or part of your basic personal C.E.R.T. equipment (manual, hard hat, safety vest, goggles, gloves).  You might see commercially offered  "expedited" C.E.R.T. classes, sometimes offered on a single Saturday.  Be aware such courses cannot possibly  cover everything you would get from the approved program and are often not recognized by community emergency agencies.  While you might get some benefit from the condensed course, you will be short-changing yourself and anyone you attempt to aid by not doing it right!

Take an inventory of supplies you have on hand and estimate how long you and your family could survive on just what you have on hand.  If it would last less than 3 days, you'll be in serious trouble and completely dependent on government emergency services that may not arrive for weeks!  Make building your own "72 hour kit" a priority, then expand your preparations.   Create step-by-step goals to reach a 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, etc.   It is unlikely you could ever be TOO prepared.   Understand the shelf life of everything you store, especially foods, medicines, and fuel.  Have a plan to rotate your supply to keep it fresh.  Don't store large quantities of things you don't know how to use or will never use . I had friend who didn't like peanut butter and insisted a single jar of peanut butter would last him a VERY long time because he wouldn't eat it.  I know people you have stored hundreds of pounds of raw wheat but would still probably starve in a disaster scenario because they don't know what to do with it.  An emergency generator can be a wonderful asset when the power goes off -- but only if you know how to use it and it is working properly and you have sufficient fuel for it on hand.  Emergency equipment should be tested regularly, perhaps as often as once a month.  And you have to have fuel.  Gas stations will be inoperable in many disaster situations, especially if the power goes out.  Even if they still have power, they'll probably sell out quickly.  Take care storing fuel.  It can be very dangerous and storing more than a few gallons may require a special permit from your local government.   Fuel on board RVs is usually acceptable, but having a big propane, diesel, or gasoline storage tank on your property may be prohibited or at least closely regulated in many jurisdictions.  Make sure you only operate an emergency generator where there is plenty of ventilation and where the fumes won't come back into your living space.  Many people got ill from generator fumes following Hurricane Sandy because they set them up to close too their homes.   Maintain at least 20' between the generator and an occupied space.

If you live in an area susceptible to winter weather, you may need to arrange for an alternate source of fuel for heating your home. You may be able to survive in your RV or even in your tent, but without minimal heat, the pipes in your buildings may freeze and cause significant damage if the structure is left unheated for very long. You might want to consider an auxiliary wood burning fireplace or wood stove for emergency heat if utilities are out. Of course then you need to store enough wood to last as long as you might be without heat.  Keep propane tanks for your RVs filled in case you need to use your RV for emergency shelter.  You can use an "Extend-a-stay" kit attached to the propane system on your RV to allow you to use an external propane tank (like the one from you home BBQ) if you run out.  This will work for propane RV appliances but since propane powered RV generators need liquid propane, not gas, they won't supply your generator.  A backup generator for emergencies may provide you with enough power to keep your food in your refrigerator and freezer safe and perhaps even power an electric heater if you don't have a wood stove or fireplace.

For camping and other recreational activity emergencies, consider the situations you might experience.  Your potential problems will depend on the locations where you travel and the kinds of activities you engage in.  If you pretty much limit your outings to camping in your tent or RV in developed campgrounds, you may encounter mechanical problems with your vehicle or you could become lost and stranded negotiating unfamiliar roads.  You could be involved in a traffic accident or encounter bad weather, flooding, or wildfires at your camp site.  Remote camping or boondocking enhances the risk and further limits your options since you won't have a camp host or facilities to assist you.  If you venture out from your campsite hiking or riding a horse or an OHV you may become lost or stranded by bad weather, flooding, accidents, wildfires, or mechanical breakdowns. You might become ill or get injured.  This is where wilderness survival techniques will come in handy.  Keep up on your first aid.  Know how to navigate in the wilderness.  Know how to build a shelter, start a fire, and find food and water.

Water may quickly become a priority if utilities are gone.  Even if you're on your own well, you'll need electricity to run the pump unless you have a windmill.  A back up generator or even the one in your RV might be able to provide power for your pump during an emergency.  If your well isn't too deep, a hand-operated pump could be useful.  How deep is too deep?  A hand pump can only lift water about 25' at most.  Below that you need a pump down in the well to push the water up and out. Lacking a continuing source of fresh water you may have to rely on what you have stored in your home or can collect locally. Some folks fill a 55 gallon barrel and keep it in a heated area of their domicile.   Smaller water jugs or even re-cycled 1-gallon bleach jugs can be used to squirrel away water in any available heated space, like under the bed.   Empty soda or juice bottles can also be used. Milk cartons are an option if they have been thoroughly cleaned.  Just rinsing them out may leave a residue that will have very unpleasant consequences over time.  Empty bleach bottles are a good container to store water in.  The residual bleach after the bottle is emptied and rinsed is enough to control bacterial growth in the gallon of water stored in it.  In an emergency you can drain water from your hot water heater or dip it out of the toilet tank (not the bowl!). Make sure there aren't any cleaning tablets in the toilet tank. Besides turning your mouth blue like they do the water, they'll probably give you serious digestive system problems and some may prove fatal! As a rule of thumb you should plan for about 3-4 gallons of water per person per day, about 10 times more if you want to take baths or showers. In winter you may be able to melt snow for cooking drinking, and flushing toilets. Just remember, don't eat yellow snow!  You can use contaminated water from streams, ponds, and puddles to flush your toilet.  And, yes, you could use melted yellow snow to flush your toilet.  You can also conserve toilet usage.  During a water shortage in Southern California there was a popular admonition:  If its yellow, its mellow; if its brown, flush it down.  That practice can save quite a bit of water that would otherwise just become sewage.  Just dump a bucket of water into the tank to refill it before or after each flush.  Don't waste potable drinking water for flushing toilets!

Food will become a problem in a few days, but you can survive for several weeks with little or no food if you have to, although you will begin to feel the physical and mental affects of a lack of nutrition within a few days.   To ensure health and comfort, store enough food to last at least 3 days, then work your way up to at least 2 weeks.  Storing even more is better, but, in most circumstances, some semblance of normality will be restored within a couple of weeks.   There is a frightening and unbelievable proposal in Federal government these days to prohibit storing large amounts of food.  This threat seems to keep popping up again and again.  Instead of recognizing it as prudent and "being prepared", politicians label it "hoarding" and seek to make it illegal.  For long term survival, such as you might face in a "TEOTWAWKI" (The End Of The World As We Know It) scenario, you will want to develop hunting, fishing, gathering, and/or gardening skills and strategies.

Medicines will be in short supply or even totally unavailable for some time following a disaster. Some medicines are quite perishable and require refrigeration.  Try to stockpile what you can for you and your family.  Common over-the-counter medications should be monitored and replaced when the expiration date is reached.  Would I use expired medication in an emergency?  You bet I would, especially if I didn't have anything else.   Prescription medications may be more difficult -- and more expensive -- to stock up on, but your very life might depend on having enough on hand to get by until your local pharmacy is back up and running.   Life-sustaining drugs are of particular concern.  For example, insulin for diabetics.  But you could probably get by without or cholresterol or even blood pressure meds for a while.   Look into natural wilderness medicines.  You might be surprised what you can find in your own back yard!  For example, willow bark is a pretty good substitute for aspirin.  In fact, aspirin is a synthetic version of the active ingredient in willow bark.  Sometimes aquatic or veterinary medicines can be obtained and stored against an emergency.  For example, Fish Mox is an antibiotic for tropical fish but chemically it is identical to Amoxicillin used for humans.  Pennicillin is derived from the same green mold that occurs on old bread.   In a dire emergency I would probably try using bread mold if I had no other antibiotics to treat infection.  During a long term emergency having antibiotics may be life saving.

In addition to C.E.R.T. you may be able to get more emergency preparedness training and guidance through the Red Cross and local church and government organizations.  Some companies that sell emergency supplies also offer classes, often for free. And be sure to use your Internet resources to locate sources of supplies, information, and training. You'll find tons of stuff using your favorite search engine.  I also took a course in Advanced Wilderness Life Support from a local university.

Boy Scout training is another excellent source or emergency preparedness learning.   Even if you've beyond scout age, pick up a Boy Scout Handbook and study the camping techniques therein.  Merit badge training provides even more details and useful tips.   A friend of mine, an Eagle Scout, found his Boy Scout training was his best asset during military survival exercises, a fact that was recognized by his survival instructor too.

Survival kits may be the key to, well, your survival in a disaster.  You probably need three: a home survival kit, a car survival kit, and a personal survival kit.  Your home kit would be the largest and most comprehensive and, ideally, would sustain you and your family until the disaster is over and things get more or less back to normal.   A car kit needs to have the things you might need if you get stranded away from home, things that would help you get home.  Your personal survival kit should be small enough to fit in your fanny pack or pocket when you're hiking or engaged in other outdoor recreational activities but have essential tools to aid you in meeting your basic needs if you get lost or stranded.  Ultimately, the best survival kits will be of no use whatsoever if you don't know how to use them, so training and knowledge is critical.

Panic is one of the worst things you can do in an emergency. Preparation is one of the best ways to avoid panic. You won't panic if you know what to do and are actively engaged in doing it. If you don't know what to do, fear will take over and you'll lose control, very likely significantly reducing your chances of survival. Panic can show itself as hand-wringing frustration, blindly running away, or inability to do anything. Freezing up is often not even recognized as panic but it is really quite common. When people don't know what to do, they sometimes do nothing, not even think! If you find yourself in a disaster situation and either feel like running or can't even move, try to hug another human being or even a tree until you stabilize your feelings and can focus on your situation.

If you are thriving in a disaster situation while those around you are struggling you will likely draw unwanted attention to yourself. You will want to minimize your exposure by NOT advertising your level of preparedness -- or be prepared to share your resources willingly or unwillingly. Explore options for protecting your resources.  One of the best ideas I know is "security by obscurity", a kind of "out of sight, out of mind" approach.  It is often better to have several small caches of emergency supplies than one large one.  That way, if you are attacked, you have less chance of losing ALL your precious survival supplies.   Some preppers go to great and expensive lengths for bunkers and security systems.  To some extent this only calls unwanted attention.  High, razor wire topped fence and elaborate electronic surveillance systems practically screams "there's valuable stuff here".  Weapons may deter some would be thieves, but realistically, how many of us are sufficiently trained and prepared to use them?  Would you really shoot your neighbors to prevent them from grabbing a few canned goods from your stash?  I had a friend whose had decided if he faced a mob coming after his survival supplies he would fire his gun(s) over their heads.  It would either scare them away or prompt them to shoot him.  Either way he figured his problem was solved and he wouldn't have killed anyone.  What if you were attacked by a mob?   Do you really think you could hold off hoards of would be looters?  I read a report from a guy who was visiting his sister in Cairo during the revolt in 2013.   At first they found it exciting to be so close to history in the making -- until looters began attacking their neighborhood.  At that point they sought refuge with a well-prepared neighbor who invited them into his high tech stronghold.  That provided them a measure of safety for a short time, but all too soon the mobs broke through his fences, broke into his house, killed him and seized all of his supplies.  They had smelled the goat he was BBQing in his compound.  The American brother and sister survived thanks to yet another neighbor whose preparations were less obvious but more effective.  Instead of barbed wire he surrounded his house with briars.  His modest abode did not appear to be of any particular value and even appeared to be run down.  His supplies were stashed in several obscure places around his house where they would be difficult for looters to find if they did break in.   "Security by obscurity" can be very valuable.

Be prepared!

Holiday Meals In Camp

Camping is a fun way to enjoy holidays.  Being out in your RV or tent doesn't mean you have to skip your traditional holiday eats. It may take a little more work -- or a different kind of work or a different menu -- than cooking at home, but you can still enjoy festive and filling meals in camp.  You might choose to maintain your regular holiday menus or sometimes its fun to try something different.

Some traditional meals, like Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners, tend to be somewhat over whelming and over done at home, so cutting back or scaling down on some items might be appropriate in camp without anyone even missing them.  However, don't cut out family favorites! You might have reduce sizes or to cut back or cut out some dishes, but make sure you stick to the basics everyone loves.  You might have to prepare some items at home and bring them along to re-heat or get creative in how you fix them, but it will be worth the effort.   Family traditions are often the glue that holds families together.

Roasting a turkey in your RV or cooking it on your campfire probably means getting a smaller turkey than usual so it will fit in your oven or pot.  It might be fun to try roasting in on a spit over an open fire or in the coals and have a kind of pioneer experience.   Other traditional dishes might also need to be scaled down but most everything we love can be cooked in camp -- or prepared ahead of time and just re-heated at the right time.  Or try something really different.  For our traditional Thanksgiving with our Desert Rat group of dirt bikers in southern California (aptly named Turkey In The Dirt) we dug a pit, filled it with coals, stuffed in the turkeys, buried them, and let them cook all day, like a pig at a Hawaiian luau.  The rest of the meal was rounded out with a fun pot luck dinner that was somewhat pre-planned to ensure proper distribution of foods.  Frozen dinners give you an easy out if you still want a Turkey Dinner for Thanksgiving without all the fuss.  As long as you have microwave or even a conventional oven you can have dinner ready in just a few minutes with only a little silverware to wash afterwards.  Or use plastic ware and just toss it for really labor-free meal.

Baking is often a big part of holiday meals at home.  Baking in an RV oven or on a camp stove or campfire will be very different.  Here again, you may have to scale back or make some substitutions to maintain holiday traditions as closely as possible.   Cooking times may be longer and/or temperatures different due to differences in elevation or the capacity of the oven.  We found it convenient to buy our Thanksgiving pies ahead of time instead of trying to bake them on site in camp.  That allowed us to have all our family favorites without giving up our activity time to prepare them.  Be sure to take elevation into consideration if you plan to bake in camp.  Many times we camp at elevations much higher than at home and cakes and other goodies often have special modifications required to the recipes to be successful at higher elevations.

If cooking a big meal isn't your thing you might substitute frozen TV dinners or frozen entrees instead.   Turkey TV dinners have graced the tables at many camp sites at Thanksgiving and I never heard anyone complain.  You may not be able to stuff yourself the way you would at Grandma's house, but maybe that isn't such a bad thing.  If continued munching is a big part of your family traditions, buy extra TV dinners you can nuke as needed like you would leftovers when appetites return.  For convenient snacks, maybe bring along some deli meats and sides.

Creative scheduling might allow you to have the best of both worlds.  When we did Turkey In The Dirt, our annual Thanksgiving Desert Rat outing, we scheduled our big potluck for Friday night so those who did want to join in traditional family gatherings on Thursday could do so without missing Turkey In The Dirt.  By the way, a potluck with lots of people (one year we had 175 show up) rivals even the largest family dinners for variety and quantity of food!  A little pre-planning and signup is needed so you don't end up with 150 bowls of mashed potatoes and nothing else to go with the turkey.

Eating out is sometimes a fun thing to do.  Many restaurants feature holiday meal specials that are worth checking out.  Eating out is probably not a very viable option if you're boondocking out in the sticks, but if you're staying in a full service campground you're probably not too far from quality eateries.   Maybe it would be a good time to check out trucker hangouts along your route.  Sometimes its kind of nice to enjoy a big, fancy meal without the tedious preparation and onerous cleanup.  Small, local "mom and pop" cafes can be an excellent value, often offering "home cooked" meals at modest prices.

Campground potluck dinners can be a fun way to expand your holiday celebrations beyond your immediate campsite.  You might make some new friends and the companionship may help alleviate the longing for traditional family get-togethers that many of us became accustomed to growing up. Whether your organize in advance and have people sign up for certain types of dishes to ensure balance or just have a real, spontaneous potluck where everyone just brings what they have on hand, it can be a fun and exciting activity.  You might end up with some very non-traditional foods to try out.

If alcohol is usually a  significant part of your celebrations, be sure to check the campground regulations so you don't run afoul of the law.  Getting arrested,  getting a citation, or being ejected ovwe the consumption of spirits will quickly dampen anyone's holiday spirits.

Eat up!

Winterization -- Again!

Yes, there already is a post on winterization.   So this is mostly just a reminder.   If you live an area that gets freezing temperatures you'll need to winterize your RV and camping equipment BEFORE the freezing weather hits every year.  You should already be started on or planning for winterization by the time you get your first frost.  Chances are you'll still have little time before consistent freezing temperatures will cause damage in your RV, but don't wait too long!

Tent campers will probably have little winterization to do, unless you have a portable hot water system or a Porta-potty.   These WILL need to be drained and winterized just like RV water systems or stored in a heated area where they won't freeze.  Also check any food and medications you have in your camp kit and make sure they are safely stored so they won't freeze.  Otherwise, if you properly stored your stuff after your last outing, you should be good to go.   Make sure your sleeping bags aren't tightly rolled and that your tents and tarps are dry.  Store sleeping bags loosely in large stuff sacks or hang them up so the filling doesn't get compacted.

RV water systems and holding tanks will need to be drained and RV antifreeze added to protect critical components from freezing.   Completely drain your fresh water tank and all the lines.  Open all the faucets to allow water to drain back into the tank.   Then either blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air or pump RV antifreeze through the lines until it comes out every fixture.  You may want to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing it out just be sure you don't have any problems if there was any residual left after blowing it out.  Don't forget the toilet!   Make sure you put at least a half cup of antifreeze in each sink or shower to protect the P-trap in the drain.   Dump enough antifreeze into the black water tank through the toilet and down the gray water drains (sinks, shower) to protect the dump valves -- usually at least a quart in each tank.  Drain the hot water heater. If it has bypass valves, set them so the antifreeze will flow through the bypass instead of the water heater.  That saves you about 6 gallons or more of antifreeze it would take to fill the hot water heater.

Use ONLY Marine/RV antifreeze in RVs and camping appliances.   It is non-toxic and is usually pink in color.  Automobile antifreeze (that green stuff) is usually ethylene glycol and is toxic. NEVER use it in an RV water system, not even in the holding tanks.  The chemicals in automotive antifreeze are not compatible with septic systems.

Don't forget your fresh water fill hose.   You should always drain the hose before storing it anyway, but for winter storage in freezing temperatures it is especially important to make sure there is no water left in the hose to freeze.  Water expands when it changes to ice which can burst the hose.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in northern Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

If you plan to use your RV at all during the winter months, you'll need to switch to winter fuel blends.  We usually don't think of fuel as being susceptible to freezing.   But, have you ever seen the documentaries of Antarctic research stations where they had to build fires under the fuel tanks before they could get their equipment going?  Winter diesel fuels have additives that prevent them from gelling.  Summer blends do not and at temperatures below about 40F will start to gel and become unusable.  The colder it gets, the worse the problem.  Hard starting is an early symptom and as it gets colder the engine won't run at all.  Propane has a similar problem.   Although it vaporizes at -44F, the reduction in tank pressure at low temperatures will cause  problems.  I have seen it recommended to keep your propane tanks full whenever the temperature drops below 40°F.  Partially empty tanks encourage condensation which can freeze.  The temperature inside the tanks drops dramatically as gas is drawn off. I could not light the furnace in my Class B at all one winter in Chicago when it was about -20°F outside.  I've had similar problems with the furnace in my camper at temperatures below 10F° here in Utah.   Freezing of pressure regulators can occur even when the outside temperature is above freezing due to the cooling effect of the propane itself on the regulator.  Try to use up you last summer filling of your propane tank and refill it before putting your rig into storage.  Winter blends often contain a mix of propane and butane, which improves low temperature performance.

If you're not going to be using your RV during winter months you need to winterize the water systems and batteries and protect the vehicle from bad weather.   Storing it in a garage, shed, or carport is best.  Next best is using an RV cover.  As a last resort you can protect them with tarps, but tarps can damage paint and other surfaces and may trap condensation.  Use tire covers while the vehicle is in storage to reduce weather checking and prolong the useful life of your tires.   You will also need to remove any provisions (food stuffs, medicines, cleaning supplies) that might freeze or be attacked by bugs or rodents while your vehicle is in storage.  For added protection against mice, put a Decon trap or two inside.  To prevent moisture from accumulating and contributing to mildew and odor problems, use some kind of de-humidifier in your RV while it is in storage.  There are electric de-humidifiers you can use if you have 120 volt power to your RV in storage and there are chemical types that work anywhere.  For the past several years I've been able to find them at my local Dollar Tree so they don't have be expensive.  Make sure you put the cap back on and remove them before you take your RV out next spring so the collected moisture doesn't spill.  BTW, if when you check them during storage you find only liquid in the container, toss it out and replace it with a new one.

If you do plan to use your RV in winter activities you will need to make sure the water system and holding tanks are protected against freezing.  You may need to apply heat tape to exposed tanks and water lines.  You can also buy heated potable water hoses for your city water connection.  Be aware a heated hose may still leave the faucet unprotected and it could freeze, leaving you without water but with a hefty repair bill from the campground!  Always wrap the exposed pipe for your water faucet with heat tape in freezing weather.  You may need auxiliary heat to supplement your furnace.   If you have shore power, portable electric heaters are a simple and convenience solution.  Lacking shore power, you'll need catalytic heaters that run on white gas or propane.   Keep in mind these heaters consume oxygen so they can only be used with adequate ventilation.  That means keeping a couple of windows open enough to provide both you and the device with enough fresh air to breathe.  To minimize heating needs, make sure your windows are insulated with heavy drapes or add bubble-foil insulating panels.  Unless your RV has four wheel drive you may be required to have tire chains on certain mountain passes.   Installing tire chains on a large RV is not fun!  You may want to practice it a few times before you find yourself out alongside the road putting them on in a blizzard!  A small tarp or section of bubble-foil insulation to lie on helps keep you out of the wet snow.

Batteries.   Make sure your batteries are fully charged.  If you have them on an automatic battery tender, you can leave them in the vehicle but if they aren't on a charger, take them out and store them where they won't freeze.  Fully charged batteries are safe down to about -75°F; dead batteries will freeze around -10°F.  Check the electrolyte level and top them off with distilled water BEFORE the temperature drops below 32°F.  Water added in freezing weather will probably freeze before it gets mixed with the rest of the acid unless you drive a bit or take the batteries out and shake them.   Also make sure all the connections are clean and tight.

No freeze-ups!

Personalizing Your RV

As human beings we like to put our personal mark on our things.  We like custom homes, or seek to customize our tract homes to reflect our personal  preferences.  We create gardens and landscaping to suit our taste.  We customize our wardrobes and our appearance.  We trick out our rides.  Our RVs are no different.  They just require some alternate approaches than our homes and cars.

Personalizing your RV is more like personalizing your residence than personalizing the family car.  Because of the high cost of exterior paint jobs on such big rigs, you will probably not want to change the color or paint scheme of your RV.  But you might add some decals, stripes, or hand-painted graphics to express your preferences.   I've seen a variety of beautiful wild animal decals and we chose an eagle to put on the spare tire cover on our Southwind Eagle 1 motorhome.   I've used ordinary colored (red/white/blue) vinyl electrical tape to add a patriotic highlight stripe so some of my RVs.  Its actually a bit heavier than vinyl striping tape and I was pleasantly surprised at how long lasting the adhesive was, even in sun,rain, and snow.  Professional vinyl striping tape is available in a variety of widths and colors to match, highlight, or complement existing color schemes..  A popular upgrade that is not TOO expensive is to switch from hub caps or wheel covers to wheel simulators, which look like custom rims and add a lot of class to older rigs.  Awnings are a popular option, both large patio-style awnings and window awnings.  You can add exterior lights to improve campsite illumination or light up other areas of activity.   Some RV, OHV, and camping clubs have logos you can post on your vehicle or you may be able to have your own custom made signs for your club or family name.  Be sure to check prices on-line.  I found significant savings by buying my first "Desert Rat" decal on ebay compared to my local sign shop.  My apologies to sign shop owners, but a difference of about 400% is significant!   My cheap letters lasted about 10-12 years before I replaced them.  This time I opted for a more elaborate design with a graphic desert background.   It is made from the same material as commercial vehicle wraps and should last a very long time.

Internal personalization is a little more flexible.   Once again, you probably won't like the cost of a complete internal make-over.  New upholstery, cabinets, and carpets can be quite costly but can also be very satisfying.  Same with changing out furniture and major appliances.  If your RV interior is in really bad shape a complete make-over might be justified, but if most if it is in reasonably good condition, I'd stick to less costly modifications, such as painting appliances instead of replacing them. Unless you are experienced in upholstery you'll probably want to enlist a professional for major repairs or upgrades to that part of your RV.   Few people have the skill or the heavy duty sewing machines required to to upholstery.  Slip covers are often used in homes to cover worn, outdated, or unsightly furniture.  You seldom see that in an RV but it might be worth a try.  I've seen people use colorful Indian or Mexican blankets to cover worn sofas or dinettes temporarily.  You might consider dyeing faded carpets to improve the appearance or change the color scheme.  However, you can work wonders with new curtains or drapes or bedspreads and shams.  You can add or change a shower curtain and mats in the bathroom.   You could paint or wallpaper some interior walls. You might use wallpaper border to highlight your favorite activities.  My truck camper came with a fishing motif all around the top of the cab over sleeping area.   Since I'm not an avid fisherman, I opted to replace it with a dirt bike theme in keeping with my family's primary recreational pursuit.  Wallpaper borders are pretty easy to work with.  Just came across a new trick for removing old wallpaper: use a capful of fabric softener in a quart of water, spray the old wallpaper, and let it sit for a few minutes.   It should peel right off.  You can add accessories to meet your particular preferences for kitchen, recreation, and entertainment systems.  Even little things like toothbrush, napkin, paper plate, and match/toothpick holders can make life on the road easier and more fun, keeping oft used things right at your fingertips.   Adding or updating light fixtures is a neat way to make your living space more suitable for your particular activities.   If you go for LED lights  you'll even save electricity and reduce battery drain.  Magazine racks, spice racks, and other wire racks can be installed to help organize your goodies where they'll be easy to use.   Maps, pamphlets, and diaries will get a lot more use when they're handy.   If you're a computer buff, you may want to convert some table, cabinet, or counter space to a dedicated work station.  You can even get computer shelves designed to go on your steering wheel!  12-volt fans, both permanently mounted and portable can add cooling comfort on hot days and redistribute heat where you want it on colder ones.   Entertainment options can range from a simple radio/cassette/CD player to complete home entertainment systems.  An option I recommend for everyone is a NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) radio that gives constant weather updates and alerts.  Adding an electric fireplace/heater is a customization that is becoming more and more popular with RV owners.  They are attractive and often make it more comfortable in cold weather.  You can find them for around $160, sometimes less. We got ours on sale at Harbor Freight for $59.99 and I've seen some at Walmart for $69.99. As long as you have sufficient 120 volt power (shore power or generator) you can enjoy 750 or 1500 watts of heat and a nice fireplace display complete with glowing logs and fake flames that are surprisingly realistic. This one bit of personalization that is functional as well as adding a nice cabin-like ambiance.

Changing the faucets in the kitchen and/or bathroom is a fairly easy and inexpensive way to update the appearance and functionality of your RV.   I find a high "goose neck" bar faucet is handy for filling canteens and Camelbaks and for washing large pots and pans.  Be sure the spacing for your new faucet matches the holes in your sink.  Changing  faucets should be as easy as turning off the water supply, disconnecting the supply lines to the old faucet, removing the nut under the sink that secure the old faucet, then carefully lift it out.  Clean the surface that was under the old faucet.  The new one will probably be a slightly different size or shape.  Slide the new faucet into place.  Install and hand tighten the nuts to secure the new faucet to the sink, then connect the supply lines.  Use teflon plumbers tape on the new faucet to help ensue a good seal but not on compression fittings.  Tighten the connects, turn on your water supply, and enjoy your new faucet!

You might want to customize the dash instruments.   I've seen modifications to change the color of the dash lights.  Sometimes you can buy colored bulbs to replace the existing clear ones or get bulb-dye to color existing bulbs.  Just make sure you don't darken them to where you can no longer read your instruments.  There are a number of additional instruments you might like to try.  I like the big "RoadRanger" compasses and have also found altimeters and clinometers useful.  Some owners like to upgrade the "idiot light" oil pressure indicator to a real oil pressure gauge or add a tachometer. Thermometers that display both inside and outside temperatures are helpful.  I've tried both automotive and residential style indoor/outdoor thermometers and found both to be satisfactory.  The digital, automotive style are especially good if you want to be able to see them when driving.  The residential styles are better installed in the living area to only be used in camp.  Several of my motorhomes came with a simple "weather center" that displays inside temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure.  It is pretty common to find these as part of the systems monitor panel in RVs.   If yours doesn't have one, they're fairly inexpensive and easy to install.  More complete systems might include outside temperature and wind speed.  I always like to have a NOAA weather radio available to monitor local forecasts and pick up storm warnings.  These days you can also get instant weather information on your cell phone or over the Internet if you are in a area where you have a wifi connection.  I have used a program/service called "Weatherbug" at home, but my computer tech tells me it is considered "Malware" and may have a security risk.  It displays current temperature on the status bar and will chime and flash the icon whenever there is a weather alert.  Alerts and warnings include rain, wind, snow, freezing temperatures, winter storms, and high fire danger . Some easy decorator touches include the addition of throw pillows and carpet runners.  Throw covers are an option, but I seldom see them used in RVs.   Probably because they may not stay in place very well during travel. They are, however, extremely useful if you're engaged in activities that would soil your clothing and transfer the dirt to your upholstery.   Throw covers can be removed and washed and its a whole lot easier than shampooing the upholstery.  Sometimes we just wrap the sofa in an old blanket or beach towel if we're anticipating dirty conditions.   Its a lot easier to throw it in the washer when we get home than it is to clean the upholstery and blankets and beach towels are a lot cheaper than new upholstery, especially when they're re-cycled  from home that almost made it into the Goodwill box before being adopted for camping.  Slip-on seat covers are helpful for rejuvenating the driver and co-pilot seats or mitigating the cold feel of vinyl or leather with sheepskin covers.

Toyhaulers and other enclosed recreational equipment trailers often benefit greatly from customization to meet your specific needs.  Adding tool boxes, cabinets, racks, closet rods, tie downs, and peg boards can help you organize your tools, gear, equipment, and spare parts. You can decorate the interior to reflect your chosen sport or OHV lifestyle.  I find functional customization to be the most satisfying but there is nothing wrong with purely cosmetic modifications.   Part of the original decals on one of my motorhomes included red, white, and blue stripes about 1/2" wide.   I was able to add matching stripes to my motorcycle trailer using colored electrical tape.   It has since become a kind of branding we use to mark almost all of our equipment.  Sometimes you can also buy decals or striping tape to match those on your motorhome.  Cosmetic changes like this don't add functionality but they are fun and many people find it pleasing to color coordinate their truck and camper, motorhome and trailer, or other tow vehicle and trailer.  I even adopted the red-white-blue stripe pattern to tag my camp chairs, stoves, lanterns, water jugs, ice chests, and tools making them easy to identify and keep track of around camp.

You may see motorhomes, trailers, and vans with elaborate murals on the sides or rear.  Some of these are factory originals, like the wild animals that grace the rear of many "Safari" motorhomes. The most beautiful and complex murals I've seen have been on custom vans, but the same technique could be used on motorhomes and trailers -- if you have the budget for it or the skill and will to paint it  yourself. Those hand-painted, air-brushed works of art don't come cheap!  Auto paint shops are skilled at painting flames and other geometric designs and may be able to create a custom decoration for your rig, but again, it will probably be relatively expensive.  Unless you are a skilled auto painter you probably won't want to attempt doing any custom graphics yourself.  "Rattle cans" can do a pretty good job repainting limited areas like the highlight stripes on campers and trailers but aren't so good on large areas.  I suspect if I tried it the results would be less artistic than the graffiti on big city buildings, overpasses, and railroad cars.  Vehicle wraps are becoming popular, mostly for advertising, and that might be a way to enhance the exterior of your RV.  But unless it is subsidized somehow by advertising, it will probably be cost prohibitive.  I have a beautiful "Desert Rat" decal on the back of my motorcycle trailer made from the same stuff as vehicle wraps. It is about 3' wide and 1 1/2' tall and cost me under $100.    Wrapping an entire RV would cost thousands.  If you choose to repaint stripes, follow the instructions on the paint can carefully in both preparing the surface and applying the paint.  Mask off areas you don't want to be painted.  Try to keep your hand moving smoothly as you spray.   If you slow down you'll get thick spots.  If you should apply too much paint and it begins to run, I've found I can often gently dab away the runs with a clean soft cloth and repaint the area.  Don't hold the can too close to the surface.  It is better to apply several light coats than one heavy one.  Vinyl stripes are available in a variety of sizes and colors and are easy to apply in straight lines.  Narrow tapes (up to 1/4") can usually be applied to follow curves and, if you have the patience and the touch for it, you can even curve tapes as wide as 3/4" by very gently heating them with a heat gun or blow dryer.  Be very careful if you try this.  The tape will often stretch and become much narrower than its normal size if you pull too hard or too fast or apply too much heat.

Another very functional modification is the addition of shelves or dividers in cabinets to make them easier to use.  Built in shelves are the sturdiest but wire-rack shelving can be easily installed in just about any cabinet to improve organization.

Make it yours!

Water Filters for Camping, RVing and Boating

Water filters will be of most concern to RVers, but even tent campers might benefit from portable water filters to free the water they are getting from campground faucets from sediment etc.  Whether the campground is on a well or a public water system it might contain stuff you'd rather not ingest.  One way to protect yourself and your family is to filter ALL the water you use. Pretty much any filter will remove sediment and really good filters will also remove chemicals and bacteria.  Most of the time you can trust water from campgrounds, but sometimes I've found it to be over-chlorinated or otherwise unpleasant to drink.  Unless you have verified the safety of water in lakes and streams, always assume it it is contaminated and purify it before drinking, washing wounds, or using it for cooking.

Water filters may be just as useful on boats.   Many boats, especially those used for cruising, have on board fresh water sources.  Using filters to fill holding tanks or purify water as it it used is as important on boats as it is in RVs  Some boats used on salt water have water collection systems that either collect rain water or make fresh water from salt water.  In either case a filter might help ensure the quality of water for drinking.  You should always filter water when filling holding tanks to avoid introducing contaminants that could pollute your fresh water supply.

 Water filters will help keep your fresh water fresh. You can use an in-line filter connected between the faucet and your hose when you fill your tank or connect to city water or you might install an internal filter to clean water as it is used.  Filling your fresh water tank with filtered water helps prevent buildup of silt and other contaminants in your fresh water tank.  Some filters even help remove bacteria as well as sediment.  For camping and hiking you might choose a portable water filter.  Filters will remove sediment and some types of bacteria but usually won't remove chemical contaminants or all microbes.  Filtering out sediment will help keep your water clean and tasting pleasant.

Portable in-line filters are individually inexpensive but having to replace them fairly often drives up the overall cost. They are also very convenient to use. They require no permanent installation. You simply screw them onto the faucet, then screw your hose onto the filter and fill your tank or connect to your city water inlet. You could install the filter on the other end of your hose, but it gets in the way of putting the hose into the gravity fill spout on your RV and tends to stress the city water inlet and kink the hose on the side of your RV. If you fill your RV through the city water hookup the filter would stick out and you may risk breaking the plastic mounting plate for the connection.  In-line filters are fairly small (about the same size as the cartridge for a grease gun) and therefore get clogged or used up rather quickly and have to be replaced, but is is an easy way to remove sediment from your water when filling your tanks and jugs or connectiing to city water with no difficult installation procedures.  It is often a small price to pay for convenience. When using an in line filter with your city water connection, still use a pressure regulator between the faucet and the filter.  As the filter begins to clog up you might want to move the pressure regulator to between the filter and the hose.  You always want the pressure regulator where it will protect your hose as well as your RV plumbing.

Whole system or internal filters will cost more initially and require some installation, but the filter elements usually last longer than in-line filters so you don't have to replace them as often and are usually less expensive to replace in the long run. And they are more convenient. Once installed you only need to check and replace the filter now and then. You can buy filter systems designed for RVs at RV supply stores but you can probably get suitable models for less at a home improvement store that can be adapted for RV use. You may have to purchase extra fittings to attach them to the water lines in your RV.   RV plumbing usually is different from residential plumbing and may require special tools or connections. If you have any worries about doing the installation, take it to a qualified RV technician. You will need to find a location where there is enough room for the filter, access to the water lines, and convenient access to replace the filter element. You want to install the filter where water from both the city water connection and the 12-volt pump will pass through it before being distributed to the fixtures in your RV.   Make sure it filters water that goes to the water heater too.  Consider the location when you purchase the filter. Some filters can be opened from the top to replace the element. Some have canisters that need to be unscrewed from the bottom. Make sure the one you buy will be convenient for you to service.  If you have a permanently installed water filter and live in an area where you get freezing winter weather, be sure to winterize your filter along with the rest of your system.  Depending on your personal taste and budget there are many different filter options, including fancy "reverse osmosis" filters, but standard filters, especially those with charcoal components, are usually adequate.  Typically, the more you are able or willing to spend, the cleaner your water will be.  However a basic filter will screen out most particulates and is usually adequate to provide acceptable water without the expense of fancy reverse osmosis filter systems.

You can adapt large, residential style filters for use as in-line filters to be used to either fill your fresh water tank or connect to your city water inlet. You need plumbing fittings to adapt the inlet and outlet of the filter (usually 1/2" pipe fittings) to hose fittings. This gives you the extra capacity and usually lower cost of the larger filters without the hassle of making a permanent installation. You will need a short piece of potable water hose in addition to your usual hose in order to connect the filter in line. Make sure the filter doesn't hang of the side of the RV or off the faucet. It needs to sit on the ground to avoid damage to the hose or connections. You may want to make some sort of cage or box to contain the filter and keep it from getting kicked or tipped over.  Always place the filter next to the campground pedestal or under your RV so it doesn't become a trip hazard.

And remember to always use hoses rated for potable water.   Ordinary garden hoses might do in a pinch, but they can leech plastic taste into your water -- especially when used as a city water hookup where the water may sit in the hose for long periods of time and may be exposed to sunlight.

Portable water filters are generally designed to provide clean drinking water for one person.  Typical design looks like a water bottle.  They usually have replaceable filters so they can be reused.  Each filter typically handles up to 300 gallons of filtration.  Personal water filters also come in the form of straws you can use to drink directly from a container or a stream.

For tent camping and hiking you can get personal water filters.  Sometimes these consist of a water bottle with a built in filter at a reasonable.   I think I paid about $20-25 for mine. There are even some very compact "drinking straw" filters which are especially convenient when backpacking.  These personal filters let you purify drinking water from just about any source.

For more information about RV water filters see http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/.   They offer a variety of filter systems specifically designed for RVs.

With proper filtration you can be sure of fresh, clean water wherever you go.

Drink up!