Camping without hookups is often called "dry camping", "camping off the grid", or "boondocking". While technically you are "dry camping" if you stop in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot, it is usually used to describe more extensive camping in a remote, primitive camping area. In some cases there may be designated camp sites but no hook ups, as is sometimes the case in primitive Forest Service campgrounds. Very often, boondocking occurs on BLM or other public lands in open or dispersed camping areas where there are no designated camp sites. The same principles of self-contained operation apply any time you aren't where you have full hookups. Boondocking is probably more different from using commercial campgrounds with hook ups for RVers than it is for tent campers. Tent campers usually don't rely too much on camp ground amenities, although they do often benefit from water and sanitation stations and sometimes even electricity. The ability to go boondocking is a major consideration for most people who buy RVs, even though something like 70% of RV owners report that they mostly stay in full hook-up campgrounds. Personally, in more than 30 years of RVing I have seldom stayed in a full hook-up campground. When our kids were growing up we spent almost every holiday weekend boondocking and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.
Even though surveys show about 3/4s of all RV owners camp in full hookup campgrounds, those same owners chose RVs that are self contained and capable of camping "off grid". My family and most of my camping buddies are in the other 25%, mostly boondocking in remote areas where we can ride our OHVs and being self contained is essential.
One of the first considerations for boondocking is where to go. Some forest service campgrounds accept RVs but have no hook-ups. In Western states there are many open camping areas on BLM land where you can camp virtually anywhere. Be aware that some locations do restrict camping to designated areas so be sure to verify your options BEFORE you go. In primitive forest service campgrounds the spaces will usually be clearly designated and marked. In some USFS domains camping is allowed within 150' of any Forest Service Road, but always check with the local ranger station before blithely driving off the road somewhere. Rangers can usually guide you to the best places even when there are no specific restrictions. That can mean safer and easier access for your RV and to various trails and activities. In open camping areas you can choose where to set up camp. Try first to use areas that have been used before. Doing so usually makes your setup easier and minimizes the impact on the environment. Using an existing site usually means someone else has already taken to time to locate the most level spots for RVs or setting up tents and may have already created a rock fire pit. It usually means there is reasonably good access so you won't get stuck or damage your vehicle. If you have to set up in a pristine location, it is a good idea to walk the site before you drive onto it to avoid unnecessary damage to both your vehicle and the site. Having a wheel drop into a gopher hole or tunnel could damage your rig and/or get you stuck. Rocks hidden in the brush might bend wheels, damage suspension, or poke holes in transmission pans or oil pans Figure out the best place to park, where you want to set up your tent, if you're using one, where you want your picnic table and where to build your campfire. If you can determine the direction of prevailing winds, try to park with your vehicle nosed into the wind. Some beach areas offer off-grid camping. There are several wonderful places along Highway 1 on the California coast that we have enjoyed. Open camping directly on the beach is often prohibited but if access is allowed, exercise caution to avoid getting stuck in the sand or damaging your tires on buried obstacles such as broken bottles.
If you are camping with a group, make sure you pick a spot with sufficient room for everyone. The best way to organize a group camp is the old wagon train format and "circle the wagons", with individual RVs or tents surrounding a central common campfire and group meeting area. It is most convenient if all the doors face the center of the circle where you will most likely build a communal campfire, but facing the front of vehicles into the circle might allow you to get more rigs around the campfire. Parking with the door to toward the center puts everyone's awning and patio space where they can view each other and share in the festivities. It also makes your access to the campfire better.
Choosing your camp site. When camping in hot weather it is always nice to have a shady campsite. Of course you aren't going to find much shade in the desert! Shade is your friend, regardless of whether you're camping a tent or an RV. Because many RVs have air conditioners, having a shady place to set up your tent will be more important than a shady place to park your RV. However, having shade for outdoor leisure activities will always be helpful in warmer weather. The only time you may want to avoid shade is if it is provided by a single tall tree that might attract lightning if there are any storms in the forecast. Camping under trees can also be hazardous if you get wind, which can cause dead branches to come crashing down on you. Another major consideration will be choosing a site that will not be in danger of flooding if there you get any rain -- locally or in nearby mountains. Avoid putting your tent or your RV in depressions that may collect water if it rains and don't ever camp in a dry wash or old stream bed. Even areas that appear to be fairly "high and dry" may be subject to runoff when it rains. I have gotten up some mornings to find the grass mat under my awning all but completely buried in mud when the previous nights' rain created enough run off to deliver a powerful stream under my RV. Although it wasn't obvious until it rained, we were parked smack in the main path of run off from nearby hills. Had I set a up a tent in the same location it would undoubtedly been flooded out during the rain.
If you are tent camping in a primitive area, your main concerns that will be different than camping in a developed campground, will be water and sanitation. You may also have to build your own fire pit (see previous post on Campfire Safety). Since there won't be a handy faucet to re-fill your water jugs, you'll need to bring along enough to last your entire trip. Lacking access to even a primitive pit toilet, you'll have to provide your own latrine. A "porta-potty" is a convenient, portable toilet that is especially appreciated by the ladies. The only drawbacks are they can be heavy, take up space, and the capacity is very limited so they have to be dumped regularly. If you don't have access to a dump station or a toilet you can haul your porta-potty to, you may fill it long before your trip is over. Other options include a simple portable toilet that consists of a toilet seat with legs like a camp stool. Plastic bags are attached to the bottom to capture the waste. You then seal the bags with twist ties and dispose of them when you have access to appropriate facilities to do so. In a more primitive situation, you will need to dig your own latrine, if doing so isn't prohibited by local regulations. If you are going to be camped in the same place for several days, you may want to make a multiple use latrine. Dig a hole or trench a safe distance from camp, trails, roads, and water sources -- always at least 200 feet from any water. Choose a spot where trees, bushes, or rocks provide some natural cover for privacy or erect a temporary shelter, such as a shower enclosure. For comfort and convenience you might want to use logs or poles to make a seat over the trench or modify a camp chair. Leave a shovel at the latrine so each user can shovel some dirt over their "deposits". Then at the end of your outing, be sure to cover the trench completely. For short term needs, dig a small hole for individual uses and cover it over immediately when you are done. Never dig a latrine near any well, lake, spring, or stream. Make sure you are at least 200 feet from any water source. Squatting over a hole is not comfortable for most people in Western society , but it is actually a fairly natural position for complete evacuation. It just takes some getting used to for most modern humans who are accustomed to sitting on the "throne".
Boondocking in an RV requires conservation of resources if you want to retain the benefits of your RV. The three major concerns are battery power, water, and holding tanks. If you use water and partially fill your holding tanks on the way to your primitive site, stop and dump your tanks and refill your fresh water as close to your site as possible before you arrive. Also make sure your batteries area fully charged either by using a battery charger before you leave home or by them charging while you're driving.
If you run your batteries down you won't have light and, if your furnace has a fan, you won't have any heat so you need to maintain your batteries. Many modern propane appliances have a circuit board that also requires 12-volt power for the appliance to operate. Start off your trip with your batteries fully charged. Then run the vehicle engine or the on board generator to charge the batteries each day. The vehicle alternator is usually the best option for charging your batteries. The vehicle alternator is higher amperage and has regulated voltage whereas the battery chargers in most converters and in many automotive battery chargers are lower amperage and unregulated. Unregulated chargers can fry your batteries. Usually running your vehicle for about an hour will bring your batteries back up to full charge. Running the vehicle engine at idle will probably use about the same amount of gas as running the generator to charge your batteries. I have an automatic battery charger set up so whenever I have 120 volt power it charges my batteries. That way, when I run the generator for any reason (power A/C, run microwave, operate entertainment systems) the batteries are charging. Conserve battery power by limiting the use of 12 volt lighting and appliances. LED lights use a whole lot less power than standard incandescent bulbs, but today they are still a little pricey in the first place. Use your gas lanterns or battery powered lanterns and flashlights whenever you can. Schedule your activities to take advantage of daylight hours or take advantage of moonlight or light from your campfire. Candles and torches might be used to illuminate campsites, giving a comfortable, almost romantic ambiance. Solar panels are sometimes a good way to maintain your batteries but you'll need some large panels, not just the little 4"x8" panels that plug into your cigarette lighter.
Your next most important resource is water. You have a limited supply of water in your fresh water tank. You can supplement that by bringing jugs, jerry cans, drums, or collapsible bladders of additional water and adding them to your tank as needed. If you RV doesn't have a gravity fill port, you may need to rig a portable pump to transfer water from you backup supply to your tank. If you have a ladder to get on the roof of your RV you might be able to carry your spare water up there and let gravity fill your fresh water tank. However, water is very heavy and carrying it on the roof isn't the best idea. Conserve water as much as possible. Save the water from the shower in jugs or a dishpan when it is running to warm up and use that for other routine tasks. Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or crumpled newspaper instead of rinsing them. When washing or showering, only run the water as needed to wet your hands, face, or body or to rinse off the soap. Turn the water off while you're lathering and scrubbing. If your RV doesn't have a shutoff on the shower head you can usually add one fairly easily and economically. You might even try developing good water conservation habits at home. It may be convenient but it is just a waste of water to let the faucet run while you're brushing your teeth. You probably won't see a noticeable difference in your water bill, but creating a habit of conservation will be helpful when you go camping where it definitely will make a difference.
Limiting water usage will also help with the third concern: filling holding tanks. By limiting water usage you will automatically reduce filling of your holding tanks. You may be able to get rid of some of the water from your gray water tank by using it to put out your campfire each evening. DO NOT use sewage from the black water tank! Its is unsanitary as well as very unpleasant and in most places is illegal. Avoid using the toilet in your RV when you can. IF there are pit toilets nearby, take advantage of them. Sometimes they smell really bad, but better to endure a few minutes in a bad smelling toilet than to have your black water tank back up and make your whole RV smell really bad for a really long time -- or have your tanks fill up and not be able to use the toilet at all! Using an outside latrine, just like tent campers, is an option and one you may be reduced to if you fill your holding tanks. There is some debate over whether it is better to send the guys out in remote locations to "water a dry bush" and conserve holding tank space or allow the liquid to help break down solid wastes. I usually vote for conserving the space when boondocking. The ladies in your group will appreciate your not filling the holding tanks too quickly! For best results, try to monitor the liquid level in your black water tank. If solids are piling up on the bottom of the thank, you'll need more liquid to maintain normal septic tank functions to break down waste and control odor as well as to facilitate dumping. How do you monitor liquid in the black water tank? About the only way is to open the toilet valve and look inside. Yccch! Not a pleasant task, but better than suffering the consequences of over filling or too much waste build up. Or just eyeball it each time you flush the toilet so you know how its doing throughout your trip. If you begin to see solid wastes piling up, drain a bucket or two of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.
Fuel is another resource you need to keep an eye on. If your on board generator uses the same fuel as the vehicle engine, the tap for the generator fuel line is usually situated higher in the tank than the motor fuel line so you don't run yourself completely out of fuel using the generator. Bring along extra fuel if you have any doubts about how long your fuel will last. Propane for you stove, furnace, refrigerator, and hot water heater is another limited resource. Use all appliances as sparingly as possible. Shut off the hot water heater when hot water is not needed for a while (like over night). There is some difference of opinion about shutting off the hot water heater. Some folks believe it will take less fuel to maintain it over night instead of re-heating it every morning. Personally, I like having hot water available all the time and not having to remember to turn it back on and then wait for it to heat to shower or shave in the morning. If you're particularly concerned about the subject, perform your own experiments and see what works best for you. Make sure your RV is well insulated and not drafty and windows and doors are closed on cool nights so your furnace doesn't run unnecessarily; limit opening the fridge. Only light the stove burners as you need them and turn them off as soon as you're done. If your stove has pilot lights, turn off the pilots when you're not using the stove. Speaking of fuel, make sure you have enough fuel to make the round trip to your remote destination. If there is any question of running out of fuel, top off your fuel tanks as close to your destination as you can get and carry extra fuel. For travel trailers you can simply bring extra propane tanks. Motorhomes with permanently mounted propane tanks can be fitted with an "Extend-a-Stay" kit that allows you to tap into an external propane tank to augment your on board tank.
Energy conservation is a usually a primary concern for both RVers and tent campers. You can minimize use of lantern fuel and battery power for lighting by matching your schedule to daylight and making use of natural light as much as possible. Conserve cooking fuels by only using stoves when actively cooking. If your RV range has pilot lights, turn them off between uses. If you choose to stay up after dark, focus on light-free activities like star-gazing or work by the light of your campfire. Of course you may need to ration your firewood too, since there are few places remaining where it is legal to gather firewood and where it is, it will probably be pretty well cleared out. One word of caution: these systems will not provide extra propane to operate a propane powered generator like those sometimes found on diesel motorhomes. The extended tanks provide vapor only and the generator requires liquied propane.
You will need to plan your provisions to make it through your entire outing without having to go to the store. Plan all your meals in advance and be frugal in your use of basic ingredients so they'll last the whole trip. Prepare foods only as you need them to avoid waste. You can save chili and stew and re-heat it for a second meal, but making too many pancakes or scrambled eggs would probably be a waste.
You may have cell phone access in some remote areas, but don't count on it. Sometimes you can increase your range by using an external antenna instead of just the tiny little one on the phone. An antenna mounted on the roof of your RV just might be enough higher and more powerful to work when standing on the ground doesn't. Of course you can try standing on the roof of your RV for emergency communications. There are also booster systems you can buy but they are pretty expensive. Many of the more recent cell phones lack an external antenna connection so check whether yours does or not before putting out money for an external antenna. Booster systems are often wireless so it doesn't matter whether your phone has an external zntenna port.
Local TV channels are available in some areas, but given that boondocking usually implies going out to some remote location, reception may be very limited. Local channels are usually picked up using a 'bat wing' antenna installed on the roof and operated via inside controls that crank it up and rotate it to obtain the best signal. Most include a signal booster to give you better range.
Satellite TV channels can be accessed using a dish on or beside your RV anytime you have a clear view of the southern sky. This usually isn't a problem when camping in the desert or on the beach, but could be in the forest or mountains. Some high end models have automatic tracking devices but you will need to manually align most satellite dishes so you need a little booklet to tell you about where to initially aim your dish. There are fairly inexpensive aiming devices that make it a lot easier to align your satellite dish. Bring along your favorite tapes or DVDs just in case. High-end satellite systems can even be used on the road, but, of course, the extra tracking and aiming components make them a lot more expensive than manual systems.
Camping off the grid is fun!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Friday, October 26, 2012
Using Campground Hookups
Campground hookups are primarily of concern to RVers but tent campers can sometimes benefit from water and electricity. Tent campers usually make do with shared restrooms and shared water faucets but having your own water and power right at your site can be useful. Campgrounds with full hookups give you maximum flexibility in using your RV systems. Full hookups usually means water, electricity, and sewer connections at each site. Phone, cable TV, and Internet may be optional. Many campgrounds today offer free WiFi Internet service if you have a wireless adapter on your computer. You just need to get the network ID and password. Water and sewer connections are part of the full hook-up price you pay at the campground. Electricity is usually included, but sometimes there may be an extra surcharge if you have electric heat or use your air conditioner during the summer. In rare cases, there may be a meter on each site so you pay for the power you use. With power, water, sewer, and WiFi, you pretty much have all the conveniences of home. Phone and cable TV are not always available and are usually extra cost services if they are. The proliferation of cell phones has pretty much eliminated land line phone service in campgrounds. Tent campers may find it convenient to have water and electricity at their site. Having your own water faucet is handy and saves packing water from a central community faucet for cooking, doing dishes and washing. If you have a portable hot water heater you may be able to connect it if you have your own faucet at your site. Access to electricity gives you power for entertainment systems, lighting, and cooking options you might not otherwise have. Tent campers will usually have little or no use for sewer connections. If you use a porta-potty, you should take it to the dump station to empty it, not attempt to dump it into the sewer port in your site. The dump station includes a basin around the sewer to contain any spills so they can be safely washed down. The sewer connections in each site do not include a basin so any spills contaminate the ground around the sewer pipe, leaving an unpleasant and unsanitary condition. As you would expect, RV sites with hookups will cost more than primitive sites, but the extra cost is usually well worth it if you can take advantage of the services offered. Full hookups would be of little use to someone with a truck camper or small trailer with an ice box., no A/C, and no on board sanitation facilities.
City water connections on most RVs consist of a recessed female hose connection on the side of the vehicle. You simply connect a drinking water rated hose between that connection and the faucet at your campsite. The use of a pressure regulator between your hose and the faucet is highly recommended. Variations in city water pressure have been know to overpower and damage plumbing inside RVs. On hot. sunny days, high pressure may rupture the hose. Installing the regulator at the faucet ensures you don't have high pressure in your hose or your RV plumbing. Always use a special fresh/potable/drinking water rated hose for connecting city water and for filling your fresh water tank. Avoid using an ordinary garden hose for your connection, or to fill your fresh water tank. They can add the smell and taste of the plastic of the hose to your water, especially when the water sits in the hose in the sun for a while like it does when connected to the RV water system. The chemcials leeched from non-potable hoes may also be toxic. Drinking water hoses are made of special materials that don't leave odors or taste or toxic chemicals in the water. Some are treated with anti-microbial compounds that inhibit mold and mildew that sometimes grows when the hose is in storage. Drinking water hoses are usually white or light blue so you can distinguish them from ordinary garden hoses. Because some city water supplies are not particularly good tasting, you might want to add a filter. It could be a portable, in-line filter, available at RV stores, attached to your hose for your city water connection or when filling your fresh water tank. For more convenience, you might add a residential style filter inside your RV. The replacement filters are said to be less expensive than RV in-line filters, last longer, and except for changing the filter occasionally, they don't require any effort. Whenever you are connected to city water, make sure your hose doesn't pose a trip hazard. If it isn't long enough to lie flat, add another section of hose. Hoses usually come in 5, 10, 25,50, and 100 foot lengths. If your faucet is close to your city water inlet, a 5' hose may be sufficient. I have only encountered that once or twice in thirty some odd years of RVing but I still carry a short hose in case I get a chance to use it. I also carry a 50' hose, just in case the faucet is way at the end of my site. Just make sure you roll and store any excess under your RV so it doesn't become a trip hazard. I once met a guy with a 40' trailer that had the water connection way at the front. The faucet in the campground was at the rear of the back in site. He only carried one 25' hose, so he was out of luck with the faucet more than 40' away. Better to have more than you need than less. You can always roll up and store the excess under your RV. You might want to coil the hose in an insulated bag to reduce pre-heating of the water supply. Luke warm drinking water isn't very palatable although it IS said to be healthy. A handy gadget you will want to use is an elbow that screws into the connection on your RV so the hose hangs straight down instead of sticking straight out. Without the elbow, your hose will have a tendency to kink right at the connection to the RV.
The city water inlet contains a back flow valve that prevents water from spewing out the city water port when you use your on board pump. I once saw an RV where the owner had removed the back flow device. Apparently he never did any boondocking and wanted higher water flow when connected to city water. If you have any problems with the inlet they are pretty easy to replace. For a temporary fix for a missing or leaking back flow valve you can screw a plug into the hose connection to prevent water from flowing out when using the on board pump. If you're tent camping, having water at your site eliminates the task of carrying water from a central faucet for your needs. You might even hook up a portable sink via a hose. Just make sure you have an appropriate way to get rid of the waste water.
Electrical connections are usually pretty simple. Most RVs have a 30-amp shore power cord. The plug is a 3-prong plug and looks a lot like the one on an electric dryer. Simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post at your site. Large RVs and many newer units may have 50-amp shore power cords. The plugs on these have 4 prongs. If the campground has 50-amp service, simply plug your shore power cord into the matching receptacle. It is a good idea to verify proper wiring of the 50 amp receptacle to ensure yo get proper power and don't damage your electrical system. A simple voltmeter can be used to verify the receptacle is wired correctly. You need a voltmeter that will handle at least 300 volts. Insert the leads from the voltmeter into the two flat, vertical slots of the receptacle. It should register about 240 volts. If it registers 0 volts, the receptacle is wired wrong. A properly wired 50 amp receptacle will have 0 volts on the Neutral line. One that is mis-wired may connect both hot lines to the Neutral creating 100 amps on the Neutral line and exceeding its capacity and creating a fire danger. If you have a camper or an older trailer with an ordinary 15-amp power cord, you will either have a recessed male receptacle (called a motor base) on the side of your vehicle to plug a heavy duty extension cord into or a shore power cord with an ordinary 15 amp grounded 3-prong plug on it. Again, simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post. Most campground power posts have 15-amp outlets as well as 30 or 50 amp receptacles. There are adapters available so you can still hook up your 50-amp power cord even if the campground only supplies 30 amp service. However, you will only have 30 amps of power available. There are even adapters to connect to ordinary 15-amp household outlets. Again, using a 15 amp adapter only gives you 15 amps of power. There are special "Y" adapters that plug into both a 15-amp outlet and 30-amp outlet to attempt to approximate 50-amp service. The additive function of this adapter is only effective it the campground pedestal is wired so that the 15 and 30 amp receptacles are each on their own circuits, so they may or may not add capacity. Some pedestals have 15 amp outlets on the same circuit as the 30 amp outlet just for convenience. To get 240 volts there must be two separate 120 volt circuits that are 180° out of phase. If the two circuits are the same phase, you will only get 120 volts and testing between the two hot leads (two flat slots in the receptacle) will yield 0 volts. If the pedestal is wired so both outlets are on the same circuit, you still only get 30-amps. 30 amps is usually enough for most RV applications, but not enough to run 2 roof air conditioners at the same time. RVs wired for 50-amps can usually run both ACs at once, IF you are connected to 50 amp service. If you have to step down to 30 amp service because that's all the campground has, you should only run one AC at a time. Just a reminder that some campgrounds may charge extra for electrical service if you have and use a roof air conditioner. Tent campers might take advantage of a site with hookups to run TVs or other entertainment equipment. You might use electric lights instead of lanterns and you might even find the use of microwave ovens and electric fry pans an added convenience. I've even heard of people using electric blankets in their tents, but the I don't find that idea very practical. I would rather bring along an adequate sleep system that can be used without power. It is safer and more reliable and you won't wake up cold if the power goes out in the middle of the night or someone trips over your power cord and disconnects it.
Sewer connections are often misunderstood and feared by new RVers. Making the connection is really pretty simple. You connect the twist lock connector on the sewer hose to the dump valve on your RV and put the other end into the sewer pipe at your site. There are a variety of adapters to ensure a good fit with the sewer pipe. It is usually a good idea to put a rock or other heavy object on the sewer hose to make sure it doesn't come out of the ground if the hose adapter doesn't screw into the pipe or fit tightly. Always wear disposable rubber gloves when handling your sewer hose. The biggest confusion comes in using the sewer facilities while camped. Many people think they can hook up the hose and then just use the facilities inside just like they would at home. That might mostly work OK for gray water from sinks and showers, but is a problem for the black water waste from the toilet. The problem is that solid wastes will pile up in the holding tank instead of being flushed down into the sewers. RV toilets don't use 3-5 gallons of water per flush like home toilets do. You must leave the valve for the black water tank closed. Actually it is best to leave both valves closed until the tanks reach at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. Many experts say to wait until the tank is nearly full. Then dump and flush the tanks like you would at a dump station. dumping the black water first, then the gray water. Letting the tanks drain directly allows solids to build up in the tanks. Letting the tanks fill before opening valves ensures there is sufficient liquid in the tanks to create a flow adequate to flush out solids and particulate matter. Letting the tanks fill also gives the chemicals time to break down solid wastes for better flushing and reduced odors. Sometimes leaving the gray water valve open will allow food particles and other contaminates to settle out and accumulate in the tank and cause unpleasant odors. Having plenty of soapy water from showers and washing dishes helps clean the dump hose after dumping the black water tank so I recommend keeping both valves closed until time to dump.
Phone, TV, and Internet connections are available in some campgrounds. Most campgrounds that provide Internet service these days do so via WiFi so all you need is a wireless adapter on your computer and network ID and the password for the router. Few RVs have phone connections for land lines and few campgrounds offer phone lines, but in case your RV and the campground you're staying in does support landlines, you'll need a cable to run from a phone jack on your RV to one on the camp site pedestal. The connectors are usually standard phone jacks. For cable TV you'll need a coax cable. This screws onto a connection on your RV and to a matching connector on the pedestal. If your RV doesn't have phone or cable connections, they can usually be added fairly easily. You will want to install an appropriate water-resistant connection on the outside wall and run wiring inside to the location where you want to plug in your phone or TV. Any hardwired Internet service would use either a coax or CAT-5 cable and you'll need matching connections on your RV. Most campgrounds that offer Internet do it via a wireless router or WiFi so you don't even need a cable -- just get the network name and password for the router from the office. Large campgrounds might have multiple WiFi routers and they should tell you which one would be best to connect to from your site. Some facilities might have satellite TV channels available via a hard-wired connection. If your RV is equipped with an external cable connector, it would be a good idea to carry a coax cable with you so you can take advantage of cable and/or satellite TV if it is available.
Other usual campground facilities usually include picnic tables and fire pits for your use. Sometimes the picnic tables are under some kind of structure that provides shade or rain protection but mostly they are in the open. RVers are expected to take advantage of fire pits in their campsites but you should always be considerate of other campers. Avoid burning trash that would emit foul odors or excessive smoke or would foul the fire pit. Restrict your fire to designated fire pits and don't overload the fire ring with fuel. Avoid using gasoline or other flammable liquids to start your fire. They give off dangerous and offensive fumes and the use in a confined area is extremely dangerous. Picnic tables are designed for eating. They should not be used for climbing toys by children and be sure to take care when using a camp stove or portable BBQ on picnic tables. Plastic tables will melt and be severely damaged if not protected with fire pans and wood tables can char or even catch on fire! Some sites have standing charcoal grills and putting your stove or BBQ on them would be much safer.
Hook it up!
City water connections on most RVs consist of a recessed female hose connection on the side of the vehicle. You simply connect a drinking water rated hose between that connection and the faucet at your campsite. The use of a pressure regulator between your hose and the faucet is highly recommended. Variations in city water pressure have been know to overpower and damage plumbing inside RVs. On hot. sunny days, high pressure may rupture the hose. Installing the regulator at the faucet ensures you don't have high pressure in your hose or your RV plumbing. Always use a special fresh/potable/drinking water rated hose for connecting city water and for filling your fresh water tank. Avoid using an ordinary garden hose for your connection, or to fill your fresh water tank. They can add the smell and taste of the plastic of the hose to your water, especially when the water sits in the hose in the sun for a while like it does when connected to the RV water system. The chemcials leeched from non-potable hoes may also be toxic. Drinking water hoses are made of special materials that don't leave odors or taste or toxic chemicals in the water. Some are treated with anti-microbial compounds that inhibit mold and mildew that sometimes grows when the hose is in storage. Drinking water hoses are usually white or light blue so you can distinguish them from ordinary garden hoses. Because some city water supplies are not particularly good tasting, you might want to add a filter. It could be a portable, in-line filter, available at RV stores, attached to your hose for your city water connection or when filling your fresh water tank. For more convenience, you might add a residential style filter inside your RV. The replacement filters are said to be less expensive than RV in-line filters, last longer, and except for changing the filter occasionally, they don't require any effort. Whenever you are connected to city water, make sure your hose doesn't pose a trip hazard. If it isn't long enough to lie flat, add another section of hose. Hoses usually come in 5, 10, 25,50, and 100 foot lengths. If your faucet is close to your city water inlet, a 5' hose may be sufficient. I have only encountered that once or twice in thirty some odd years of RVing but I still carry a short hose in case I get a chance to use it. I also carry a 50' hose, just in case the faucet is way at the end of my site. Just make sure you roll and store any excess under your RV so it doesn't become a trip hazard. I once met a guy with a 40' trailer that had the water connection way at the front. The faucet in the campground was at the rear of the back in site. He only carried one 25' hose, so he was out of luck with the faucet more than 40' away. Better to have more than you need than less. You can always roll up and store the excess under your RV. You might want to coil the hose in an insulated bag to reduce pre-heating of the water supply. Luke warm drinking water isn't very palatable although it IS said to be healthy. A handy gadget you will want to use is an elbow that screws into the connection on your RV so the hose hangs straight down instead of sticking straight out. Without the elbow, your hose will have a tendency to kink right at the connection to the RV.
The city water inlet contains a back flow valve that prevents water from spewing out the city water port when you use your on board pump. I once saw an RV where the owner had removed the back flow device. Apparently he never did any boondocking and wanted higher water flow when connected to city water. If you have any problems with the inlet they are pretty easy to replace. For a temporary fix for a missing or leaking back flow valve you can screw a plug into the hose connection to prevent water from flowing out when using the on board pump. If you're tent camping, having water at your site eliminates the task of carrying water from a central faucet for your needs. You might even hook up a portable sink via a hose. Just make sure you have an appropriate way to get rid of the waste water.
Electrical connections are usually pretty simple. Most RVs have a 30-amp shore power cord. The plug is a 3-prong plug and looks a lot like the one on an electric dryer. Simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post at your site. Large RVs and many newer units may have 50-amp shore power cords. The plugs on these have 4 prongs. If the campground has 50-amp service, simply plug your shore power cord into the matching receptacle. It is a good idea to verify proper wiring of the 50 amp receptacle to ensure yo get proper power and don't damage your electrical system. A simple voltmeter can be used to verify the receptacle is wired correctly. You need a voltmeter that will handle at least 300 volts. Insert the leads from the voltmeter into the two flat, vertical slots of the receptacle. It should register about 240 volts. If it registers 0 volts, the receptacle is wired wrong. A properly wired 50 amp receptacle will have 0 volts on the Neutral line. One that is mis-wired may connect both hot lines to the Neutral creating 100 amps on the Neutral line and exceeding its capacity and creating a fire danger. If you have a camper or an older trailer with an ordinary 15-amp power cord, you will either have a recessed male receptacle (called a motor base) on the side of your vehicle to plug a heavy duty extension cord into or a shore power cord with an ordinary 15 amp grounded 3-prong plug on it. Again, simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post. Most campground power posts have 15-amp outlets as well as 30 or 50 amp receptacles. There are adapters available so you can still hook up your 50-amp power cord even if the campground only supplies 30 amp service. However, you will only have 30 amps of power available. There are even adapters to connect to ordinary 15-amp household outlets. Again, using a 15 amp adapter only gives you 15 amps of power. There are special "Y" adapters that plug into both a 15-amp outlet and 30-amp outlet to attempt to approximate 50-amp service. The additive function of this adapter is only effective it the campground pedestal is wired so that the 15 and 30 amp receptacles are each on their own circuits, so they may or may not add capacity. Some pedestals have 15 amp outlets on the same circuit as the 30 amp outlet just for convenience. To get 240 volts there must be two separate 120 volt circuits that are 180° out of phase. If the two circuits are the same phase, you will only get 120 volts and testing between the two hot leads (two flat slots in the receptacle) will yield 0 volts. If the pedestal is wired so both outlets are on the same circuit, you still only get 30-amps. 30 amps is usually enough for most RV applications, but not enough to run 2 roof air conditioners at the same time. RVs wired for 50-amps can usually run both ACs at once, IF you are connected to 50 amp service. If you have to step down to 30 amp service because that's all the campground has, you should only run one AC at a time. Just a reminder that some campgrounds may charge extra for electrical service if you have and use a roof air conditioner. Tent campers might take advantage of a site with hookups to run TVs or other entertainment equipment. You might use electric lights instead of lanterns and you might even find the use of microwave ovens and electric fry pans an added convenience. I've even heard of people using electric blankets in their tents, but the I don't find that idea very practical. I would rather bring along an adequate sleep system that can be used without power. It is safer and more reliable and you won't wake up cold if the power goes out in the middle of the night or someone trips over your power cord and disconnects it.
Sewer connections are often misunderstood and feared by new RVers. Making the connection is really pretty simple. You connect the twist lock connector on the sewer hose to the dump valve on your RV and put the other end into the sewer pipe at your site. There are a variety of adapters to ensure a good fit with the sewer pipe. It is usually a good idea to put a rock or other heavy object on the sewer hose to make sure it doesn't come out of the ground if the hose adapter doesn't screw into the pipe or fit tightly. Always wear disposable rubber gloves when handling your sewer hose. The biggest confusion comes in using the sewer facilities while camped. Many people think they can hook up the hose and then just use the facilities inside just like they would at home. That might mostly work OK for gray water from sinks and showers, but is a problem for the black water waste from the toilet. The problem is that solid wastes will pile up in the holding tank instead of being flushed down into the sewers. RV toilets don't use 3-5 gallons of water per flush like home toilets do. You must leave the valve for the black water tank closed. Actually it is best to leave both valves closed until the tanks reach at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. Many experts say to wait until the tank is nearly full. Then dump and flush the tanks like you would at a dump station. dumping the black water first, then the gray water. Letting the tanks drain directly allows solids to build up in the tanks. Letting the tanks fill before opening valves ensures there is sufficient liquid in the tanks to create a flow adequate to flush out solids and particulate matter. Letting the tanks fill also gives the chemicals time to break down solid wastes for better flushing and reduced odors. Sometimes leaving the gray water valve open will allow food particles and other contaminates to settle out and accumulate in the tank and cause unpleasant odors. Having plenty of soapy water from showers and washing dishes helps clean the dump hose after dumping the black water tank so I recommend keeping both valves closed until time to dump.
Phone, TV, and Internet connections are available in some campgrounds. Most campgrounds that provide Internet service these days do so via WiFi so all you need is a wireless adapter on your computer and network ID and the password for the router. Few RVs have phone connections for land lines and few campgrounds offer phone lines, but in case your RV and the campground you're staying in does support landlines, you'll need a cable to run from a phone jack on your RV to one on the camp site pedestal. The connectors are usually standard phone jacks. For cable TV you'll need a coax cable. This screws onto a connection on your RV and to a matching connector on the pedestal. If your RV doesn't have phone or cable connections, they can usually be added fairly easily. You will want to install an appropriate water-resistant connection on the outside wall and run wiring inside to the location where you want to plug in your phone or TV. Any hardwired Internet service would use either a coax or CAT-5 cable and you'll need matching connections on your RV. Most campgrounds that offer Internet do it via a wireless router or WiFi so you don't even need a cable -- just get the network name and password for the router from the office. Large campgrounds might have multiple WiFi routers and they should tell you which one would be best to connect to from your site. Some facilities might have satellite TV channels available via a hard-wired connection. If your RV is equipped with an external cable connector, it would be a good idea to carry a coax cable with you so you can take advantage of cable and/or satellite TV if it is available.
Other usual campground facilities usually include picnic tables and fire pits for your use. Sometimes the picnic tables are under some kind of structure that provides shade or rain protection but mostly they are in the open. RVers are expected to take advantage of fire pits in their campsites but you should always be considerate of other campers. Avoid burning trash that would emit foul odors or excessive smoke or would foul the fire pit. Restrict your fire to designated fire pits and don't overload the fire ring with fuel. Avoid using gasoline or other flammable liquids to start your fire. They give off dangerous and offensive fumes and the use in a confined area is extremely dangerous. Picnic tables are designed for eating. They should not be used for climbing toys by children and be sure to take care when using a camp stove or portable BBQ on picnic tables. Plastic tables will melt and be severely damaged if not protected with fire pans and wood tables can char or even catch on fire! Some sites have standing charcoal grills and putting your stove or BBQ on them would be much safer.
Hook it up!
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Personal Protective Equipment for Campers and OHVers
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is well defined for many professions. Football players wear helmets and shoulder and hip pads. Welders wear goggles or helmets, heavy leather aprons, and heavy leather gloves. Painters need respirators and coveralls. Machinists wear safety goggles. Construction workers wear hard hats and steel toed boots. Fire fighters have fire-resistant "turn out" gear. Law enforcement has bullet proof vests. Many of our camping, RVing, and OHV related activities have PPE that will improve safety and comfort. Some, like helmets for OHV riders, may be required by law in some jurisdictions, but wearing the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment for any activity is just common sense -- and not wearing it is a badge of stupidity. Some folks might think it isn't very fashionable or macho, but it sure beats road rash, casts and bandages! Not wearing proper PPE pretty much demonstrates one has an IQ a few points less than a dandelion. When you see some macho guy hot dogging it around on his dirt bike in a t-shirt and flip-flops you can figure the bike is probably smarter than he is.
OHV riders should ALWAYS wear helmets and goggles, regardless of whether there is a helmet law. In many places, helmets are required by law, especially for minors. Other personal protection is provided by apparel, chest protectors, gloves, elbow pads, knee pads, and riding boots. You can ride in regular shirts and pants, but I don't recommend it. Ordinary clothing doesn't provide the same protection or comfort as proper riding gear. Riding jerseys and pants are specifically designed to protect your body while allowing necessary freedom of movement and adequate ventilation. Jerseys often have some padding in the elbows and pants have hip and knee pads. Special "Windchill" jerseys and gloves will help keep you warm in cooler weather. When it is rainy or down right cold, an Enduro jacket made of Gore-Tex is in order. Even if your jersey has padded elbows, I suggest wearing elbow/arm guards for extra protection. The soft padding the jersey won't give you the same level of protection as hard plastic arm guards. I describe my riding gear as "full body armor". I wear as much protection as I can and it has saved me from some nasty consequences more than once. It includes helmet and goggles, chest protector, arm guards, gloves, hip pads in my riding pants, knee braces, kidney belt, and riding boots. You can also buy body armor that you put on like a shirt. It has shoulder and elbow pads, a built-in kidney belt, and chest and back protection. Whatever you wear may seem restrictive at first or uncomfortable, especially in warm weather, but the safety it provides is more than worth it. Proper gear can protect you from a lot of injuries. Full body armor is particularly necessary for dirt biking. It may not be as necessary riding ATVs and side-by-sides since they don't fall over as easily, but helmet, goggles, and gloves are still strongly advised. For dirt biking, I can't over-emphasize the value of full body armor. ATVs are not far behind. I wouldn't want to ride either without protection. Standard knee pads are inexpensive. They are plastic devices that fit over your knees and down your leg, kind of like fancy soccer shin guards. They protect your knee cap and shin from scrapes and bruises. If you've ever knelt on a rock. let alone fallen on one, you'll appreciate the knee protection. Knee pads usually cost less than $20. A more robust protection comes in the form of knee braces. Not only do they protect your knees and shins from bumps, they help prevent lateral displacement and over-extension of the knee. They are somewhat bulky, but the main deterrent to getting knee braces is their high cost. You can easily pay up to $500 a pair for them. I spent weeks watching ebay to find mine (used) for under $100. I have a suit of body armor that can be worn under my jersey and includes a chest protector, elbow pads, and kidney belt, but it isn't as tough as the individual components and the chest protector lacks shoulder pads. Although not part of your body armor, having a convenient drinking water supply is essential to good health on the trail. I prefer a "Camelbak" hydration pack. I add a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a corresponding mating piece to the center of my chest protector to keep the bite valve handy and avoid having it pulled off going through bushes or trees or just falling of from the drinking tube whipping in the wind. To help keep mine cool in summer weather, I wrap it in a piece of reflective foam insulation cut from an automotive windshield cover. An old Army canteen is also a good way to carry water. That's what my buddies and I used before Camelbaks. Hydration packs are much easier to use and you can even take a sip as needed while riding, which is much better way of staying hydrated than gulping down a bunch of water when you take a break, which can lead to stomach cramps.
Horse back riding presents many of the same opportunities for injury as riding an OHV. I'm not aware of any equestrian helmet laws yet, but wearing a proper riding helmet is a good idea. Statistics I've read show there are far more head injuries from horseback riding than from motorcycle riding, yet there is no outcry for equestrian helmet laws. A riding helmet may not look as fashionable or in style as a cowboy hat, but if you get thrown, it will do you a lot more good. Speaking of cowboy hats, they do provide excellent protection from sun and rain. They just don't stand up well if your head encounters a rock, a tree limb, or a log. Chaps are a common part of the cowboy costume that is often the object of humor. However, chaps are an important part of your horse back riding protection. They guard your legs against brush and tree branches and protect your thighs against rubbing on the saddle. Gloves are needed to protect your hands against blisters and abrasions. While eye protection isn't as critical as it is for OHV activities (unless you're racing or roping or driving a herd of cattle), you will want to at least wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare and over-exposure to UV radiation. Cowboys usually carried their drinking water in a big canteen slung on the saddle horn. That still works and the old, blanket wrap style canteen allows you to dampen the sides to keep the water cooler. There are also saddle horn packs that carry two water bottles and are convenient to use on the trail. A hydration pack (Camelbak) like the one I use for dirt biking is also a convenient way of staying hydrated while horseback riding and is my personal favorite.
Bicycling is a convenient companion activity to RVing and camping. A lot of people give little though to personal protective equipment for bicycling but it is worth considering. Some places require helmets, especially for children and helmets are ALWAYS a good idea. I like to wear mine over a ball cap because, like many bicycle helmets, mine doesn't have a visor and I don't like the sun in my eyes. Comfortable, light weight gloves will protect your hands from blisters and help cushion your grasp on the handlebars. You can buy special bicycling gloves but we've also find that equestrian riding gloves also work well. My favorite bicycle gloves are actually left and right handed batting gloves! Riding shorts provide comfortable crotch padding as well as necessary support for male riders. The form-fitting Spandex type material helps prevent "monkey butt". Some good sunglasses or safety glasses are needed to protect your eyes. You also might benefit from clamps or elastic bands around your right ankle to prevent your pants leg from getting caught in the chain. A helmet or handle-bar mounted mirror will help you keep track of riders behind you and watch for traffic overtaking you. Again, a Camelbak is a handy way to stay hydrated, but you can also carry water bottles in racks on the frame of your bicycle. Just be sure to make regular stops to take a sip now and then.
Most aquatic activities require flotation devices. In many places they are required by law as well as by common sense. You should always wear a Coast Guard approved flotation device when boating, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, water skiing, wake boarding, and jet skiing. Those little plastic floaties for kiddie pools don't count, not for you or for the kids. You are no longer limited to the ugly, orange kapok vests that were once the only choice. Now approved flotation devices come in both vest and belt versions and in a variety of fashionable colors. Make sure your device is Coast Guard approved, to ensure your safety as well as to comply with legal requirements. For many aquatic activities a good hat and sunglasses are needed to protect your face, neck, and eyes from sunburn. Waterproof sunblock is needed to prevent sunburn. Remember to consider the reflected sunlight as well as direct exposure. You can get a nasty burn from reflection while seated in the shade on the beach or on the covered deck of a boat. UV rays can penetrate clouds, so don't ignore sunblock on cloudy days. If you do, you'll regret it!
Most people don't think of camping as an activity that needs personal protective equipment, but they are wrong! There are many camping activities, even when camping in an RV, that benefit from protective equipment. Sturdy leather gloves are at the top of my list. Y ou need them when cutting and handling fire wood, pounding and pulling tent stakes, handling hot pots and pans, and a myriad of other manual tasks around the camp site. Goggles should also be worn when cutting wood. I would also recommend wearing a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses to protect you from the sun. Sunglasses will help protect your eyes against UV rays and painful glare. While wearing tank tops and short shorts may provide simulating entertainment or humorous diversions to your fellow campers depending on your physique, you are better off wearing light weight, long sleeved shirts and long pants. It protects you from sunburn and insects, reflects direct sunlight to keep you cooler, and allows perspiration to do a better job of cooling your body. Sturdy shoes are advised. You will see a lot of people at campgrounds in flip-flops and sandals, but they are risking injury or insect bites. Be especially dubious of wearing open footwear when desert camping, where poisonous insects are common. Ticks are a common problem in the woods and they are often carries of Lyme Disease. You can probably get away with wearing sandals and flip-flops in a paved campground or at the beach -- it you don't mind the pale strap-marks that will be there when you remove them after a day or two in the sun or the sunburn you may get on exposed areas. RVers should wear disposable rubber gloves whenever they are dumping holding tanks or handling the sewer hose and holding tank chemicals. They might also be helpful when refueling or when checking your oil, unless you like to smell of gasoline or used motor oil on your fingers. You could even consider oven mitts and hot pads as PPE for camp cooking.
Why do I need PPE for hiking? After all, its just walking. In the first place, hiking is usually a lot more than just walking. Hiking has a few items of personal protective equipment to ensure safety. Sturdy boots top the list. They need to be adequate to support your ankles and protect your feet from stones, poison insects and snakes. Proper socks are needed to keep your feet comfortable. Not only do socks cushion your feet, they provide insulation to keep your feet warmer in winter and cooler in summer and provide protection against chafing that can cause blisters. Good hiking socks will wick sweat away from your skin. In fact, if you check out footwear recommendations for hiking you will see descriptions of entire sock systems involving multiple layers to ensure maximum comfort and safety in all seasons. Like any other outdoor activity, you should protect your head and eyes from too much sun. A lot of hikers wear baseball caps, but broad-brimmed hats protect your neck as well as your face and, besides keeping your neck from getting sunburned, that can be a real advantage if you get caught in the rain. I, for one, really hate having rain run down my back! As always, wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. Some light gloves might be helpful to protect your hands, especially if you're using a walking stick or hiking anyplace you have to do any rock climbing. Though more for comfort than personal protection (unless you have to use it as a weapon), a walking stick is a good thing to have. If you've never tried hiking with one, check it out. You'll be surprised how much stress it takes off your legs and back. A lot of hikers just use an old tree branch but some prefer commercial walking sticks. You can even get light weight telescoping aluminum walking sticks for added convenience. Some of these have built in shock absorbers for even more comfort. Due to the exertion of hiking, hydration is VERY IMPORTANT, so carry a canteen, water bottles, or wear a hydration pack. Jackets appropriate to the climate and weather are also advisable. It is smart to dress in layers so you can adjust your clothing as temperatures -- air and/or body temperature -- demands. I have something called a "JackPack" that is a combination jacket and back pack. It isn't very heavy but would provide some protection against a sudden summer shower as well as for carrying a few essential items. An inexpensive plastic poncho is always a good thing to tuck in your pocket or your pack. They are about the size and weight of a folder handkerchief so they aren't cumbersome to carry and having one could save you from getting soaked in a sudden summer storm. And remember, you lose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothes. You can get dangerously hypothermic even in mild weather (temps in the 70s Fahrenheit) if your clothes are wet.
Hunting and fishing have their own special needs. If you are a hunter, you are aware that many hunting seasons occur in winter when you will need appropriate cold weather gear. You also know you need to dress to be seen, so other hunters don't mistake you for game. A lot of hunting clothing uses various camouflage designs. While that might make you harder for your prey to see, it also makes you harder for other hunters to see. Since many animals are color blind, it is far more important that fellow hunters see you than animals don't. If your parka isn't bright orange, wear a bright safety vest. In warm weather you can wear the vest over your shirt without much discomfort. You will also need to address how you carry your weapons and ammo. Holsters and ammo bands or bags should be sturdy, comfortable, and easily accessible. Hydration is an important issue so carry a canteen or wear a hydration pack. Sturdy boots are a necessity for tramping through the woods and fields . If you're in an area where you might encounter poisonous snakes, high top boots are advised. About the only special gear I've seen for fishing are hip-waders (and a cool fishing hat!). If you plan to spend time in the water, you'll need these for both comfort and to reduce hypothermia. You might even want to wear a wet suit inside of them for extra protection. Always exercise caution when wearing hip-waders. Take care not to venture into deep water. If water comes over the top of the waders they will quickly fill up and drag you down. Make sure you know how to get out of them quickly if the need arises. A good fishing hat should protect your face and neck from sunburn. Many fisherman decorate theirs with lures. If you do, make sure there are no exposed hooks to snag your scalp or your fingers! Sunglasses will be essential to protecting your eyes from the reflections off the water . Flotation devices are advisable, especially if you're fishing from a boat or pier or where you might easily fall into the water. Sunglasses are needed to protect your eyes from reflected glare off the water.
An unusual item that many OHV and bicycle riders (maybe horse riders too) find useful is ladies panty hose, for both men and women. It provides a slick undergarment to prevent chafing and what riders call "monkey butt". If you straddle any kind of saddle -- on dirt bike, ATV, JetSki, bicycle, or horse, a little extra protection can prevent a lot of discomfort and guard against painful "monkey butt". Lest you think it wearing panty hose is only for wimps or girls, remember there was an NFL quarterback who wore them under his uniform in pro games. There are spandex undergarments designed to do the same thing, but they cost a LOT more and tend to be somewhat hotter and bulkier. That might be a good thing in cold weather, but not particularly desirable for desert rides. An added benefit is they can help prevent your riding boots and heavy motocross socks from chafing and causing blisters on your feet. Guys might do well to buy "control top" panty hose. The extra upper support may reduce or eliminate the need to wear an athletic supporter and are generally more comfortable.
Rock climbing, mountain climbing, and spelunking each have their own specialized equipment that is necessary to even participate. Proper boots, gloves, and harnesses are essential, along with sturdy clothing that can stand up to the rigors of constant contact with rough surfaces. Hard hats are often needed too since you will frequently find yourself in areas with loose rocks. Wearing a hard hat is sometimes cumbersome and irritating. Rocks bouncing off your hard hat are annoying. Rocks bouncing off your head are painful, perhaps even fatal!
Birdwatching seems to be a pretty passive activity but you still need to be aware of your personal safety when tromping around the wilderness and especially if climbing trees, rocks, or hills to locate or follow your targets. An appropriate safety harness might be a good idea if you plan to do a lot of tree climbing. Dress for the weather and terrain. Sturdy shoes or boots, long pants, long sleeved shirts, and broad-brimmed hat should be your basic wardrobe. And always carry drinking water. Water bottles, canteen, or the oft-mentioned hydration pack will do the job. If you plan to climb trees and set up your viewing stations in them, use a safety harness to secure yourself to a sturdy trunk in case you get so enamored with your quarry that you lose your balance or a sudden gust of wind knocks you loose.
Sightseeing may seem safe enough, and, indeed, usually it is. Wear appropriate hats, sunglasses, and clothing to protect from sunburn and insects. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water to maintain hydration. Use the straps on camera equipment to help avoid it being lost if dropped or snatched! Pay close attention to warning signs and park rules to avoid potentially dangerous situations and avert getting a citation. Maintain "situational awareness" -- observe your surroundings and watch out for suspicious behavior. Many times thieves, pickpockets, con artists and muggers will target obvious tourists, viewing them as easy and affluent targets.
Keep safe!
OHV riders should ALWAYS wear helmets and goggles, regardless of whether there is a helmet law. In many places, helmets are required by law, especially for minors. Other personal protection is provided by apparel, chest protectors, gloves, elbow pads, knee pads, and riding boots. You can ride in regular shirts and pants, but I don't recommend it. Ordinary clothing doesn't provide the same protection or comfort as proper riding gear. Riding jerseys and pants are specifically designed to protect your body while allowing necessary freedom of movement and adequate ventilation. Jerseys often have some padding in the elbows and pants have hip and knee pads. Special "Windchill" jerseys and gloves will help keep you warm in cooler weather. When it is rainy or down right cold, an Enduro jacket made of Gore-Tex is in order. Even if your jersey has padded elbows, I suggest wearing elbow/arm guards for extra protection. The soft padding the jersey won't give you the same level of protection as hard plastic arm guards. I describe my riding gear as "full body armor". I wear as much protection as I can and it has saved me from some nasty consequences more than once. It includes helmet and goggles, chest protector, arm guards, gloves, hip pads in my riding pants, knee braces, kidney belt, and riding boots. You can also buy body armor that you put on like a shirt. It has shoulder and elbow pads, a built-in kidney belt, and chest and back protection. Whatever you wear may seem restrictive at first or uncomfortable, especially in warm weather, but the safety it provides is more than worth it. Proper gear can protect you from a lot of injuries. Full body armor is particularly necessary for dirt biking. It may not be as necessary riding ATVs and side-by-sides since they don't fall over as easily, but helmet, goggles, and gloves are still strongly advised. For dirt biking, I can't over-emphasize the value of full body armor. ATVs are not far behind. I wouldn't want to ride either without protection. Standard knee pads are inexpensive. They are plastic devices that fit over your knees and down your leg, kind of like fancy soccer shin guards. They protect your knee cap and shin from scrapes and bruises. If you've ever knelt on a rock. let alone fallen on one, you'll appreciate the knee protection. Knee pads usually cost less than $20. A more robust protection comes in the form of knee braces. Not only do they protect your knees and shins from bumps, they help prevent lateral displacement and over-extension of the knee. They are somewhat bulky, but the main deterrent to getting knee braces is their high cost. You can easily pay up to $500 a pair for them. I spent weeks watching ebay to find mine (used) for under $100. I have a suit of body armor that can be worn under my jersey and includes a chest protector, elbow pads, and kidney belt, but it isn't as tough as the individual components and the chest protector lacks shoulder pads. Although not part of your body armor, having a convenient drinking water supply is essential to good health on the trail. I prefer a "Camelbak" hydration pack. I add a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a corresponding mating piece to the center of my chest protector to keep the bite valve handy and avoid having it pulled off going through bushes or trees or just falling of from the drinking tube whipping in the wind. To help keep mine cool in summer weather, I wrap it in a piece of reflective foam insulation cut from an automotive windshield cover. An old Army canteen is also a good way to carry water. That's what my buddies and I used before Camelbaks. Hydration packs are much easier to use and you can even take a sip as needed while riding, which is much better way of staying hydrated than gulping down a bunch of water when you take a break, which can lead to stomach cramps.
Horse back riding presents many of the same opportunities for injury as riding an OHV. I'm not aware of any equestrian helmet laws yet, but wearing a proper riding helmet is a good idea. Statistics I've read show there are far more head injuries from horseback riding than from motorcycle riding, yet there is no outcry for equestrian helmet laws. A riding helmet may not look as fashionable or in style as a cowboy hat, but if you get thrown, it will do you a lot more good. Speaking of cowboy hats, they do provide excellent protection from sun and rain. They just don't stand up well if your head encounters a rock, a tree limb, or a log. Chaps are a common part of the cowboy costume that is often the object of humor. However, chaps are an important part of your horse back riding protection. They guard your legs against brush and tree branches and protect your thighs against rubbing on the saddle. Gloves are needed to protect your hands against blisters and abrasions. While eye protection isn't as critical as it is for OHV activities (unless you're racing or roping or driving a herd of cattle), you will want to at least wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare and over-exposure to UV radiation. Cowboys usually carried their drinking water in a big canteen slung on the saddle horn. That still works and the old, blanket wrap style canteen allows you to dampen the sides to keep the water cooler. There are also saddle horn packs that carry two water bottles and are convenient to use on the trail. A hydration pack (Camelbak) like the one I use for dirt biking is also a convenient way of staying hydrated while horseback riding and is my personal favorite.
Bicycling is a convenient companion activity to RVing and camping. A lot of people give little though to personal protective equipment for bicycling but it is worth considering. Some places require helmets, especially for children and helmets are ALWAYS a good idea. I like to wear mine over a ball cap because, like many bicycle helmets, mine doesn't have a visor and I don't like the sun in my eyes. Comfortable, light weight gloves will protect your hands from blisters and help cushion your grasp on the handlebars. You can buy special bicycling gloves but we've also find that equestrian riding gloves also work well. My favorite bicycle gloves are actually left and right handed batting gloves! Riding shorts provide comfortable crotch padding as well as necessary support for male riders. The form-fitting Spandex type material helps prevent "monkey butt". Some good sunglasses or safety glasses are needed to protect your eyes. You also might benefit from clamps or elastic bands around your right ankle to prevent your pants leg from getting caught in the chain. A helmet or handle-bar mounted mirror will help you keep track of riders behind you and watch for traffic overtaking you. Again, a Camelbak is a handy way to stay hydrated, but you can also carry water bottles in racks on the frame of your bicycle. Just be sure to make regular stops to take a sip now and then.
Most aquatic activities require flotation devices. In many places they are required by law as well as by common sense. You should always wear a Coast Guard approved flotation device when boating, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, water skiing, wake boarding, and jet skiing. Those little plastic floaties for kiddie pools don't count, not for you or for the kids. You are no longer limited to the ugly, orange kapok vests that were once the only choice. Now approved flotation devices come in both vest and belt versions and in a variety of fashionable colors. Make sure your device is Coast Guard approved, to ensure your safety as well as to comply with legal requirements. For many aquatic activities a good hat and sunglasses are needed to protect your face, neck, and eyes from sunburn. Waterproof sunblock is needed to prevent sunburn. Remember to consider the reflected sunlight as well as direct exposure. You can get a nasty burn from reflection while seated in the shade on the beach or on the covered deck of a boat. UV rays can penetrate clouds, so don't ignore sunblock on cloudy days. If you do, you'll regret it!
Most people don't think of camping as an activity that needs personal protective equipment, but they are wrong! There are many camping activities, even when camping in an RV, that benefit from protective equipment. Sturdy leather gloves are at the top of my list. Y ou need them when cutting and handling fire wood, pounding and pulling tent stakes, handling hot pots and pans, and a myriad of other manual tasks around the camp site. Goggles should also be worn when cutting wood. I would also recommend wearing a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses to protect you from the sun. Sunglasses will help protect your eyes against UV rays and painful glare. While wearing tank tops and short shorts may provide simulating entertainment or humorous diversions to your fellow campers depending on your physique, you are better off wearing light weight, long sleeved shirts and long pants. It protects you from sunburn and insects, reflects direct sunlight to keep you cooler, and allows perspiration to do a better job of cooling your body. Sturdy shoes are advised. You will see a lot of people at campgrounds in flip-flops and sandals, but they are risking injury or insect bites. Be especially dubious of wearing open footwear when desert camping, where poisonous insects are common. Ticks are a common problem in the woods and they are often carries of Lyme Disease. You can probably get away with wearing sandals and flip-flops in a paved campground or at the beach -- it you don't mind the pale strap-marks that will be there when you remove them after a day or two in the sun or the sunburn you may get on exposed areas. RVers should wear disposable rubber gloves whenever they are dumping holding tanks or handling the sewer hose and holding tank chemicals. They might also be helpful when refueling or when checking your oil, unless you like to smell of gasoline or used motor oil on your fingers. You could even consider oven mitts and hot pads as PPE for camp cooking.
Why do I need PPE for hiking? After all, its just walking. In the first place, hiking is usually a lot more than just walking. Hiking has a few items of personal protective equipment to ensure safety. Sturdy boots top the list. They need to be adequate to support your ankles and protect your feet from stones, poison insects and snakes. Proper socks are needed to keep your feet comfortable. Not only do socks cushion your feet, they provide insulation to keep your feet warmer in winter and cooler in summer and provide protection against chafing that can cause blisters. Good hiking socks will wick sweat away from your skin. In fact, if you check out footwear recommendations for hiking you will see descriptions of entire sock systems involving multiple layers to ensure maximum comfort and safety in all seasons. Like any other outdoor activity, you should protect your head and eyes from too much sun. A lot of hikers wear baseball caps, but broad-brimmed hats protect your neck as well as your face and, besides keeping your neck from getting sunburned, that can be a real advantage if you get caught in the rain. I, for one, really hate having rain run down my back! As always, wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. Some light gloves might be helpful to protect your hands, especially if you're using a walking stick or hiking anyplace you have to do any rock climbing. Though more for comfort than personal protection (unless you have to use it as a weapon), a walking stick is a good thing to have. If you've never tried hiking with one, check it out. You'll be surprised how much stress it takes off your legs and back. A lot of hikers just use an old tree branch but some prefer commercial walking sticks. You can even get light weight telescoping aluminum walking sticks for added convenience. Some of these have built in shock absorbers for even more comfort. Due to the exertion of hiking, hydration is VERY IMPORTANT, so carry a canteen, water bottles, or wear a hydration pack. Jackets appropriate to the climate and weather are also advisable. It is smart to dress in layers so you can adjust your clothing as temperatures -- air and/or body temperature -- demands. I have something called a "JackPack" that is a combination jacket and back pack. It isn't very heavy but would provide some protection against a sudden summer shower as well as for carrying a few essential items. An inexpensive plastic poncho is always a good thing to tuck in your pocket or your pack. They are about the size and weight of a folder handkerchief so they aren't cumbersome to carry and having one could save you from getting soaked in a sudden summer storm. And remember, you lose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothes. You can get dangerously hypothermic even in mild weather (temps in the 70s Fahrenheit) if your clothes are wet.
Hunting and fishing have their own special needs. If you are a hunter, you are aware that many hunting seasons occur in winter when you will need appropriate cold weather gear. You also know you need to dress to be seen, so other hunters don't mistake you for game. A lot of hunting clothing uses various camouflage designs. While that might make you harder for your prey to see, it also makes you harder for other hunters to see. Since many animals are color blind, it is far more important that fellow hunters see you than animals don't. If your parka isn't bright orange, wear a bright safety vest. In warm weather you can wear the vest over your shirt without much discomfort. You will also need to address how you carry your weapons and ammo. Holsters and ammo bands or bags should be sturdy, comfortable, and easily accessible. Hydration is an important issue so carry a canteen or wear a hydration pack. Sturdy boots are a necessity for tramping through the woods and fields . If you're in an area where you might encounter poisonous snakes, high top boots are advised. About the only special gear I've seen for fishing are hip-waders (and a cool fishing hat!). If you plan to spend time in the water, you'll need these for both comfort and to reduce hypothermia. You might even want to wear a wet suit inside of them for extra protection. Always exercise caution when wearing hip-waders. Take care not to venture into deep water. If water comes over the top of the waders they will quickly fill up and drag you down. Make sure you know how to get out of them quickly if the need arises. A good fishing hat should protect your face and neck from sunburn. Many fisherman decorate theirs with lures. If you do, make sure there are no exposed hooks to snag your scalp or your fingers! Sunglasses will be essential to protecting your eyes from the reflections off the water . Flotation devices are advisable, especially if you're fishing from a boat or pier or where you might easily fall into the water. Sunglasses are needed to protect your eyes from reflected glare off the water.
An unusual item that many OHV and bicycle riders (maybe horse riders too) find useful is ladies panty hose, for both men and women. It provides a slick undergarment to prevent chafing and what riders call "monkey butt". If you straddle any kind of saddle -- on dirt bike, ATV, JetSki, bicycle, or horse, a little extra protection can prevent a lot of discomfort and guard against painful "monkey butt". Lest you think it wearing panty hose is only for wimps or girls, remember there was an NFL quarterback who wore them under his uniform in pro games. There are spandex undergarments designed to do the same thing, but they cost a LOT more and tend to be somewhat hotter and bulkier. That might be a good thing in cold weather, but not particularly desirable for desert rides. An added benefit is they can help prevent your riding boots and heavy motocross socks from chafing and causing blisters on your feet. Guys might do well to buy "control top" panty hose. The extra upper support may reduce or eliminate the need to wear an athletic supporter and are generally more comfortable.
Rock climbing, mountain climbing, and spelunking each have their own specialized equipment that is necessary to even participate. Proper boots, gloves, and harnesses are essential, along with sturdy clothing that can stand up to the rigors of constant contact with rough surfaces. Hard hats are often needed too since you will frequently find yourself in areas with loose rocks. Wearing a hard hat is sometimes cumbersome and irritating. Rocks bouncing off your hard hat are annoying. Rocks bouncing off your head are painful, perhaps even fatal!
Birdwatching seems to be a pretty passive activity but you still need to be aware of your personal safety when tromping around the wilderness and especially if climbing trees, rocks, or hills to locate or follow your targets. An appropriate safety harness might be a good idea if you plan to do a lot of tree climbing. Dress for the weather and terrain. Sturdy shoes or boots, long pants, long sleeved shirts, and broad-brimmed hat should be your basic wardrobe. And always carry drinking water. Water bottles, canteen, or the oft-mentioned hydration pack will do the job. If you plan to climb trees and set up your viewing stations in them, use a safety harness to secure yourself to a sturdy trunk in case you get so enamored with your quarry that you lose your balance or a sudden gust of wind knocks you loose.
Sightseeing may seem safe enough, and, indeed, usually it is. Wear appropriate hats, sunglasses, and clothing to protect from sunburn and insects. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water to maintain hydration. Use the straps on camera equipment to help avoid it being lost if dropped or snatched! Pay close attention to warning signs and park rules to avoid potentially dangerous situations and avert getting a citation. Maintain "situational awareness" -- observe your surroundings and watch out for suspicious behavior. Many times thieves, pickpockets, con artists and muggers will target obvious tourists, viewing them as easy and affluent targets.
Keep safe!
Sunday, October 21, 2012
RVs and Camping as Disaster Recovery Options
Disasters can strike anytime, anyplace. Some locations are more susceptible than others and what is likely to occur varies greatly from place to place. If you live in southern California, you're probably used to earthquakes. Mid-west folks live with tornadoes. East and gulf coast areas suffer from hurricanes. Wildfires plague many states and winter storms are potential problems throughout most of the northern climes. Fires, floods, and chemical spills can occur anywhere. If you live anywhere near a rail line, freeway, or major highway there are probably hazardous loads traveling close enough to require you to evacuate if there is an accident. I have personally had to live with floods, wildfires, tornoadoes, and earthquakes.
What does RVing and camping have to do with disasters? Well, other than the fact that some outings might be described as disasters (hopefully very few), your RV can be used as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle and all your camping skills and equipment could be life-saving and at the very least, may add a lot of comfort and convenience to any disaster survival/recovery situation you might find yourself in.
RVs make very good disaster recovery vehicles, especially if you are able to keep them fully stocked and ready to use. Think about it. A motorhome or trailer provides shelter, cooking, sleeping, and sanitation facilities. Properly stocked it becomes a first aid station. It could even become you bug out vehicle if you have to evacuate your home. If your residence is damaged in an emergency situation you could temporarily live in your tent. Not only might you be more comfortable and private than in a Red Cross shelter set up in a local school or church, but you'll be where you may be able to protect your belongings from looters and possibly have access to things as you need them. If a disaster forces you to evacuate your home, having an RV to move into will greatly simplify your evacuation and improve your comfort until it is safe to return to your residence. A chlorine gas cloud once forced us to evacuate our suburban home in southern California. We drove our motorhome to a church parking lot outside the evacuation area and were quite comfortable as we waited for the "all clear" to return home, far more comfortable than the dozens of strangers crammed into the church gym.
Using a boat as a disaster recovery vehicle may not be the first thing that comes to mind, but it may be worth considering. If you have any kind of boat with a cabin and it is stored where you have access to it in a disaster, it might give you a fairly comfortable base to protect you from the elements and provide basic creature comforts. It occurred to me that our sailboat, moored safely out of reach of the Holiday Farm Fire on the McKenzie River could have been our only refuge had our home and RV stored there been consumed by the flames. Fortunately we were 3 miles up river and up wind of the start of the fire and the winds took the fire miles in the other direction, sparing our home -- but having evacuated, it was about a week before we could even find out if our home survived.
Having good camping skills can serve you well in an emergency. It is generally understood that professional emergency services (fire, police, ambulance, hospital) will be inoperable or overwhelmed for at least 1-3 days and quite likely up to 2 weeks following a major local disaster. Some scenarios say it could be months before a return to normal. During that time you will be on your own. Being able to take care of yourself without utilities could mean the difference between surviving comfortably and suffering. Camp cooking and knowing how to take care of sanitation needs will be essential skills following a disaster. First aid and even more advanced medical skills could be life-saving in a disaster situation. My wife and I serve on our volunteer fire department and are pursuing training as Emergency Medical Responders. Depending on the nature and extent of the emergency, first responders and doctors and hospitals may be inoperative for days or weeks. Remember, YOU are the only first responder you can really count on.
For your RV or camping equipment to be effective in an emergency it will have to be accessible and be stored where it is fairly safe from damage that would render it unusable. It must also be ready to use. Empty propane tanks or having no fuel for your camp stove will quickly make your RV or camp stove useless. Inoperable or damaged equipment may be more of a liability than an asset, so keep everything in good shape. You don't want to pull out your trusty Coleman stove in a disaster only to find the fuel tank has sprung a leak, the pump is worn out, or the generator needs to be replaced.
We were about the only house our our block with consistently functioning refrigerator and television for a day or two following the 1994 Northridge earthquake in southern California. In addition to using our RV facilities, I ran an extension cord into the house to keep our residential fridge running during the day so we didn't loose any of the food stored therein. It stayed cold enough overnight without power so we didn't have to worry about bothering the neighbors by running the generator during quiet hours. ON another occasion, we had to evacuate when our neighborhood was threatened by a poisonous chlorine gas cloud. A fork lift had knocked the valve off a large chlorine tank in a local supply yard and the whole west end of our city was evacuated. It happened when I was at work 50 miles away but my wife had the presence of mind to use the motorhome for evacuation so we weren't stuck in some Red Cross shelter with hundreds of other noisy and otherwise obnoxious people. More recently we were in a Level 3 evacuation zone ("Get Out Now!") for the Holiday Farm fire in the McKenzie River valley in Oregon. Having an emergency generator allowed me to run lights, heaters, refrigerators and the microwave oven during the 2 weeks we were without power following the fire.
Emergency supplies should be included in your RV and camping provisions. Keep your first aid kits up to date. You may want to augment your camping first aid kit with additional supplies you might need in a disaster. Try to have at least 3 days worth of non-perishable foods. If you are not subject to freezing winter weather, keep your RV fresh water tank full. Tent campers and folks who do live in cold climates should store water indoors for emergency use. You need 2-3 gallons per person per day, or 9 gallons per person to give you a 3-day emergency buffer. Keep extra clothing in your RV or with your camping gear or have a "grab and go" bag prepared in case you have to evacuate. Normally you'll have 40-50 gallons of water in your hot water heater you can drain off for drinking and cooking. And unless you put those blue tablets in your toilet tank you have close to another 5 gallons of fresh water there -- if you don't flush it! If the sewer system hasn't been damaged you could refill the toilet tank with water from showers or washing dishes or non-potable water from streams, ditches, or even puddles.
Pets and livestock are often forgotten when making an emergency preparedness plan. But given how much a part of our families and our lives our pets often become, they should be included. For small household pets, have a bag or case of food set aside with your own emergency supplies. For livestock, try to maintain at least a couple of weeks worth of food on hand and have a plan for getting water if your normal water supply is interrupted. You should acclimate your household pets to your RV so they won't be frantic if you suddenly move them into your rolling home. Take them along on a camping trip or two or spend a weekend or two driveway camping so they get used to their temporary home. Know where and how you'll transport livestock if their current habitat becomes uninhabitable. Where can you get water? How will you transport it?
Survive in style!
RVing, Camping, and OHVing, a Natural Fountain of Youth
Staying active in the RV, camping, and OHV lifestyle has been a kind of natural fountain of youth for my wife and I. Now semi-retired, we still find great joy in going places in our RV, tent camping, and riding our horses and our dirt bikes. They say dirt bikers never grow up, they just get bigger and that may be true. Besides that, you don't stop riding because you get old, get old because you stop riding! I logged more than 50 miles of off road trails on my dirt bike on my 70th birthday.
My own grandfather said "A man will rust out a lot quicker than he'll wear out" and I've seen it happen over and over. People who remain active live longer and more productive lives than those who settle for a couch potato existence when they retire. Some folks feel they've worked hard all their lives and are entitled to just take it easy when they retire. I have no argument with them, but personally, I think they're cheating themselves. Staying active is an important part of staying healthy. Sometimes, by changing what you do you can still stay active without continuing to be worn down by your job. I've seen people plop down in an easy chair and refuse to move when they retire. And they usually didn't last long. On the other hand, I've seen people stay active into their 90s and beyond. Retirement may be a good time to become an activist in your favorite cause. Being actively involved in something (anything) will most likely keep you feeling and acting younger.
RVing, camping, and OHVing provide continuing options for retired persons to remain active. There is a certain level of physical activity involved that is good for most of us, but, I think, the mental attitude has an even greater affect on us. "Young at heart" is a frequently quoted thought memorialized in poetry and songs and it is a good way of describing people who remain active. I've seen people well into their 90s who are still active and alert, reveling in outdoor activities and new learning experiences. On the other hand, I've seen people barely into their 60s for whom hobbling from the couch to the refrigerator for another beer during TV commercials causes over-exertion and is the extent of their exercise. In rare cases, a physical disability is to blame, but by and large, it is more likely due to mental attitude. If you decide your life is over, it will be, sooner than you think!
As an avid dirt biker, I admit I've had to slow down a little since I "retired", but I still enjoy riding whenever I get the chance. I realize my reaction time is a little slower, my strength and stamina a little diminished, my bones a little more brittle and my bruises and road rash (contusions) heal more slowly these days. With that in mind I try to be a little more careful when I'm riding and probably avoid some of the more technical challenges I might have welcomed in my younger days. But that doesn't mean I'm ready to put my dirt bike on craigslist. I ALWAYS wear protective gear. My wife and I still very much enjoy hitting the trails. When asked why he didn't take up golf as he got older, one of my riding buddies replied "I can still swing my leg over my dirt bike!" I figure that when the day comes for me that I can't get my leg over my dirt bike, it will be time to switch to an ATV or a UTV (side-by-side) rather than completely retiring from the OHV lifestyle. I am pleased that there are options available that will be a little less physically demanding than my dirt bike yet allow me to continue riding. Last summer I worked as an ATV mechanic at a resort in southern Utah. We had customers of all ages. Some of the more memorable groups, who had the most fun, were large family groups, that included several (at least 3) generations of riders. Part of my job was test riding vehicles after repairs so I got to get some experience with ATVs and side-by-sides. (How fun is that? Actually getting paid to go trail riding!) ATVs and UTVs give you much of the fun of off road riding in vehicles that are a little more stable and less demanding than 2-wheeled dirt bikes. I recently talked with a former dirt biker who is approaching retirement age. He was seriously injured in a dirt bike accident a few years ago and has chosen to stop dirt biking -- but he still regularly ventures out in a UTV (side-by-side). I have a dirt biking friend who is in his late 70's and is still riding. In fact, he organizes and leads two, week-long off road rides in Mexico every year!
RVing by itself provides a fairly comfortable way for senior citizens to enjoy our the great outdoors. If you can still drive safely, you can probably enjoy the RV lifestyle. Tent camping, with the rigors of setting up and taking down camps, requires a little more physical strength and stamina, but there are even some options to make that easier, like self-erecting "pop-up" tents. And camping or RVing with your children and grandchildren is a great option and a wonderful family activity. You can leave some the more arduous tasks to the younger generation while still continuing to enjoy the lifestyle and providing guidance and wisdom from your extensive personal experience. It is a real win-win situation.
Tent camping is still a good option for many senior campers. You probably don't want to wait until you're retired to take it up, but if you're already a camper, there is no reason you can't continue. However, if you didn't get around to it until retirement, it isn't too late to start! If you are already an experienced tent camper, you may find you want to trade in your trusty old canvas cabin tent for a modern, lighter and easier to set up model but you don't have to limit your camping activities to sitting on the couch and watching the Nature channel. Getting out and getting some exercise and fresh air is usually good for you. If you aren't accustomed to the rigors of camping you should probably get a good physical checkup before you start. Like any other physical sport, you may need to train for it.
RVing, OHVing, and camping all provide many opportunities for both mental and physical exercise that can help keep us young . I truly believe what my grandfather said: "A man will rust out a lot quicker than he'll wear out!" I sure don't plan to rust!
One of my favorite quotes is "You don't stop riding because you get old; you get old because you stop riding."
Keep riding!
My own grandfather said "A man will rust out a lot quicker than he'll wear out" and I've seen it happen over and over. People who remain active live longer and more productive lives than those who settle for a couch potato existence when they retire. Some folks feel they've worked hard all their lives and are entitled to just take it easy when they retire. I have no argument with them, but personally, I think they're cheating themselves. Staying active is an important part of staying healthy. Sometimes, by changing what you do you can still stay active without continuing to be worn down by your job. I've seen people plop down in an easy chair and refuse to move when they retire. And they usually didn't last long. On the other hand, I've seen people stay active into their 90s and beyond. Retirement may be a good time to become an activist in your favorite cause. Being actively involved in something (anything) will most likely keep you feeling and acting younger.
RVing, camping, and OHVing provide continuing options for retired persons to remain active. There is a certain level of physical activity involved that is good for most of us, but, I think, the mental attitude has an even greater affect on us. "Young at heart" is a frequently quoted thought memorialized in poetry and songs and it is a good way of describing people who remain active. I've seen people well into their 90s who are still active and alert, reveling in outdoor activities and new learning experiences. On the other hand, I've seen people barely into their 60s for whom hobbling from the couch to the refrigerator for another beer during TV commercials causes over-exertion and is the extent of their exercise. In rare cases, a physical disability is to blame, but by and large, it is more likely due to mental attitude. If you decide your life is over, it will be, sooner than you think!
As an avid dirt biker, I admit I've had to slow down a little since I "retired", but I still enjoy riding whenever I get the chance. I realize my reaction time is a little slower, my strength and stamina a little diminished, my bones a little more brittle and my bruises and road rash (contusions) heal more slowly these days. With that in mind I try to be a little more careful when I'm riding and probably avoid some of the more technical challenges I might have welcomed in my younger days. But that doesn't mean I'm ready to put my dirt bike on craigslist. I ALWAYS wear protective gear. My wife and I still very much enjoy hitting the trails. When asked why he didn't take up golf as he got older, one of my riding buddies replied "I can still swing my leg over my dirt bike!" I figure that when the day comes for me that I can't get my leg over my dirt bike, it will be time to switch to an ATV or a UTV (side-by-side) rather than completely retiring from the OHV lifestyle. I am pleased that there are options available that will be a little less physically demanding than my dirt bike yet allow me to continue riding. Last summer I worked as an ATV mechanic at a resort in southern Utah. We had customers of all ages. Some of the more memorable groups, who had the most fun, were large family groups, that included several (at least 3) generations of riders. Part of my job was test riding vehicles after repairs so I got to get some experience with ATVs and side-by-sides. (How fun is that? Actually getting paid to go trail riding!) ATVs and UTVs give you much of the fun of off road riding in vehicles that are a little more stable and less demanding than 2-wheeled dirt bikes. I recently talked with a former dirt biker who is approaching retirement age. He was seriously injured in a dirt bike accident a few years ago and has chosen to stop dirt biking -- but he still regularly ventures out in a UTV (side-by-side). I have a dirt biking friend who is in his late 70's and is still riding. In fact, he organizes and leads two, week-long off road rides in Mexico every year!
RVing by itself provides a fairly comfortable way for senior citizens to enjoy our the great outdoors. If you can still drive safely, you can probably enjoy the RV lifestyle. Tent camping, with the rigors of setting up and taking down camps, requires a little more physical strength and stamina, but there are even some options to make that easier, like self-erecting "pop-up" tents. And camping or RVing with your children and grandchildren is a great option and a wonderful family activity. You can leave some the more arduous tasks to the younger generation while still continuing to enjoy the lifestyle and providing guidance and wisdom from your extensive personal experience. It is a real win-win situation.
Tent camping is still a good option for many senior campers. You probably don't want to wait until you're retired to take it up, but if you're already a camper, there is no reason you can't continue. However, if you didn't get around to it until retirement, it isn't too late to start! If you are already an experienced tent camper, you may find you want to trade in your trusty old canvas cabin tent for a modern, lighter and easier to set up model but you don't have to limit your camping activities to sitting on the couch and watching the Nature channel. Getting out and getting some exercise and fresh air is usually good for you. If you aren't accustomed to the rigors of camping you should probably get a good physical checkup before you start. Like any other physical sport, you may need to train for it.
RVing, OHVing, and camping all provide many opportunities for both mental and physical exercise that can help keep us young . I truly believe what my grandfather said: "A man will rust out a lot quicker than he'll wear out!" I sure don't plan to rust!
One of my favorite quotes is "You don't stop riding because you get old; you get old because you stop riding."
Keep riding!
Saturday, October 20, 2012
Our Ride From Hell -- or What Not To do!
Our "Ride From Hell" began as a well-planned, easy, afternoon family dirt bike rirde, right out of our back door in the Mojave Desert. We had thoroughly checked all the bikes and made sure everyone was carrying plenty of water for the planned 2-hour afternoon ride in the mountains a few miles from our home in the Mojave Desert. We were all experienced desert riders and knew well the issues we might face.
Exactly how our easy family jaunt turned into The Ride From Hell isn't entirely clear. It was a combination of things that kind of fell like dominoes, but if I had to hang it on one specific action, it would be our choice to ride certain trails we weren't familiar with. Now riding new trails is not a bad thing, in fact a lot of the fun of riding any OHV is exploring new territory. I think our problem first began when we failed to turn back immediately when we hit a section of trail that was less used and far more technically challenging than we had planned for. Perhaps our egos pushed us to keep going or perhaps we just thought things would get better. That first stretch of questionable trail was an uphill through a lightly forested area and the soil was soft and loose, making progress difficult. We figured the trail would get better once we got to the top of the hill. We were wrong! In hindsight, we should have turned around right then. Instead we kept going and before too long were far enough up this particular trail that it no longer made any sense to try to slip and slide back down it. We figured we'd find a better way down. So, we kept going -- and going -- and going. Bad choice!
We had left home about noon on a planned two-hour ride. By 3:00 our water was getting low. By 4:00 the water was gone and we were still way up on the mountain looking for the best way down. Around 5:00 we started having problems with the bikes. My big KTM started blowing white smoke and I feared I'd blown a head gasket. My youngest son, then a high school football lineman, eagerly volunteered to switch bikes so he could push the KTM as needed. The second casualty was my wife's KDX 200. It just died and wouldn't start. Now our eldest son stepped in, giving his brand new KX250 to my wife and taking over pushing the KDX 200 as needed. Fortunately it was mostly downhill at the time. We tried to set as direct a course as possible to get us off the mountain and back home but it still took us more than an hour to just reach the desert floor. Getting back down had two problems: first of all, we didn't KNOW the way down and secondly, we had somewhere gotten off the trail when it petered out and were breaking our own trail all the way down. Even with gravity working to move us in general direction we needed to go it was tough going.
With two dead or dying bikes it was decided that my wife and I would go on ahead on the working bikes and bring back water to drink and the truck to haul the broken bikes home. We were somewhat concerned about how we would find the boys when we got back. By the time we hit the highway we'd made a least a dozen turns on unmarked dirt desert roads criss-crossing the valley floor. We tried remembering our route and tried to leave definitive tracks we could follow back, but were still worried. What a relief it was reaching the highway! Now we should only be 15-20 minutes from home and salvation! After only about 5 minutes on the highway I discovered my wife was no longer behind me. When I went back to see what had happened I discovered she'd run out of gas. We had certainly not expected that! She was riding our son's KX 500 which had large desert tank and we'd NEVER run it out of gas in the nearly 20 years we'd had that bike. With no other real choice, I left her with the empty bike and headed for home as fast as I could. When I arrived at the gate I discovered my riding boots were covered in oil. Turns out my son's new KX 250 had popped a little rubber plug out one of the valve covers and it was spraying out the oil! That made it a full house -- failure of all four of our bikes on one ride. Worried that I'd done permanent damage to my son's new bike I pushed it down the driveway and into the shed.
I then headed directly to the kitchen for some water and Powerade to stem my dehydration and try to stave off heat cramps. I then mixed up a big "Round About" of Powerade and filled another with water to take back to the rest of the family. It was then I discovered my truck was just about out of gas. "No problem." I thought. "I'll just take Mike's truck." I was happy when I found his keys but my joy was short lived. His truck was also almost out of gas. As luck would have it, even my lawn mower gas can was empty. My dad used to say "If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all" and I was sure I'd inherited his luck by then. With no other choice I drove into town about 8 miles away to get gas. I then headed back out the highway. My plan was to first rescue my wife, then we'd go look for the boys and pick them up. About a quarter mile past the turn off to our house, I saw a rider coming toward me. I didn't recognize him at first but as we passed I discovered it was Mike. He had figured out what the problem was with the KDX 200 and got it started. Turned out the fairly new gas cap wasn't vented and after a while it would vapor lock and the fuel would no longer flow to the carburetor. Opening the cap now and then provided a temporary solution until we could drill a vent hole in the cap. We loaded the bike in the truck and headed on down the highway to rescue my wife. We drove all the way to where my wife and I had turned onto the highway without seeing her or the bike. Fortunately we had cell phones and were able to reach her and learn she had gotten a ride home from a passing vehicle. Knowing she was home safe we turned our attention to rescuing our other son, who was still with my dying KTM. I was sure glad to have Mike with me since he knew about where he had left Tyler. When we got to Tyler his face was bright red. He was sunburned, dehydrated, and overheated. He'd been pushing the KTM for quite a while and had just about decided he was ready to fire it up and ride it until it died. He must of put down a half gallon of water and Powerade before even coming up for air. We loaded up the KTM and headed home. Mom had ordered pizza and we all sat down for dinner and swigged down glass after glass of Powerade and water. I thought with what I'd gotten when I first got home and what I was drinking with dinner I was in good shape. Not so! ALL of us experienced excruciating heat cramps before the evening was over. When my legs cramped up on me when I tried to stand up I called for a glass of salt water as a quick fix for low electrolytes. We all continued to drink as much water and Powerade as we could hold to compensate for being out in the heat for so long without water and to combat continuing heat cramps. Everyone was in pain from heat cramps for hours. I really thought I'd gotten it whipped by the time we went to bed but was awakened about 1:00 am with another set of painful heat cramps in both thighs. The cramps were in front and back so it was impossible to stretch out one without further cramping the other. Finally, in desperation, I sought the most neutral and comfortable position I could find and waited them out until I was able to walk, sort of. I hobbled to the kitchen and downed about 12 more ounces of salt water (by the way, dill pickle juice works even better for almost immediate relief, but we'd already used up all we had) and was able to sleep through the rest of the night, although my thigh muscles still felt bruised the next morning. I'm pretty sure the rest of the family's sleep was interrupted by heat cramps too. If you've ever had heat cramps, you know how painful they are and you won't want to have them again. If you've never had them, they're like a "Charlie Horse" on steroids!
Lessons learned: 1) Have a good plan and stick to it. Don't keep going when things start getting out of control. 2) Don't assume you have "enough" water. We were each carrying 72 to 96 ounces of water when we left at noon, which would have been plenty for our planned 2 hour ride, perhaps longer if we rationed it knowing it had to last longer. However, we used up our water early, thinking we'd be home before it ran out. 3) Don't underestimate the desert -- or any other terrain you may be riding or hiking in. 4) Limit exploration of new trails. Either get someone who has ridden them before to guide you the first time or be cautious about how far you go into new territory, especially if the going gets rough. 5) Watch the time and turn back when you reach the half-way point of your planned excursion whether you have reached your destination or not. Don't be afraid to back track. 6) Always plan a return/escape route.
The Ride From Hell makes a good story now, and, hopefully, helps motivate other riders to avoid making the same mistakes we did. Now it is remembered as an "adventure". But at the time, it was no fun at all, and a source of significant pain for all of us on top of the emotional stress. One rule we DIDN'T break was 'Never Ride Alone'. Each of us experienced some necessary solo time here and there, but overall we were mostly at least 2x2.
What Not To Do. DO NOT continue to explore unfamiliar trails if the going gets rough. You can quickly get into a situation that may be hard to get out of. DO NOT use up all your water early in a ride. Even if you have plenty, ration it so you still have some left at the end of the ride. DO NOT ride outbound for more than half the time you have allocated for the ride. If you haven't reached your destination when you reach the half way mark for your planned ride on the clock, turn around!
Previously the only regrettable ride I'd been in involved following the advice of a more experienced rider who, it turns out, had a reputation for not knowing where he was going! We were in unfamiliar territory and relying on outdated maps to find our way back to camp. Our self appointed leader mis-read the map and led us up a steep trail that quickly petered out to a goat trail. We ended up deep in uncharted wilderness that added hours to our ride back to camp. Fortunately, using some common sense and dead reckoning, we found our way back to a familiar road the finally back to camp, but not before encountering and negotiating over and around boulders the size of Volkswagens. Once again, it now makes a good story but there was nothing good about it at the time.
Ride safely!
Tent Camping Luxury Options
A penchant for the comforts of home isn't limited to RVers but what kind of luxury options could there possibly be for tent campers? Aren't luxury and tent camping more or less mutually exclusive? We all enjoy a bit of extra comfort and convenience, even when roughing it -- epitomized by multi-million dollar motorhomes. Here are a few luxury options for tent camping.
Portable generators are now light weight, quiet, and fuel efficient enough to be viable for use by tent campers, allowing them access to many of the conveniences of an RV, such as microwave ovens and electronic entertainment systems. Count on spending several hundred dollars for a portable generator. Older units that you might find good prices on will probably be heavy and noisy, so look for newer Honda or Yamaha powered models. They are light weight, quiet, and fuel efficient. You won't need the high wattage required to run the air conditioners on RVs. I have an 850 watt unit I use to charge the batteries and run lights and small appliances and power tools in my motorcycle trailer when we aren't using it together with our motorhome. It isn't enough to run roof AC on the trailer or the 120-volt air compressor. Portable generators used for AC equipped travel trailers usually need a minimum of 2,000 - 2,500 watts and most factory installed units are at least 4000 watts.
Portable hot water systems give tent campers hot water for showers and doing dishes. Prices are around $100 - $300 or so. Add a shower enclosure (about $50) and you can enjoy hot, private showers in your camp site while tent camping. Washing dishes is a whole lot easier when you can fill your sink with hot water just like you would at home instead of having to heat it in pans on your camp stove.
Air mattresses have reached the point where they sometimes rival traditional mattresses for comfort. Top of the line models may include built in manual or 12 or 120 volt pumps for added convenience. Individual, one person air mattresses are pretty cheap. Full size or larger mattresses with electric pumps push $100 or more but are far more comfortable. So-called self-inflating air mattresses expand when they're unrolled reducing or eliminating the need to huff and puff to fill them. Larger residential style mattresses usually inflate to 6-8" deep so, unless they spring a major leak, you're not going to feel anything that's under the mattress. Some air mattresses are so good you won't miss having them on a cot, but camp cots are another way to increase your nighttime comfort, especially if you have problems getting up off the ground in the morning.
Luxury sleeping bags give you 4-season comfort even on the coldest nights. You can get good summer bags for around $30. Good 4-season bags are going to cost a lot more, $80 to over $500! The pricier bags are light weight, down filled, and suitable for backpacking as well as car camping. The extra fill in 4-season bags tends to make them softer and more comfortable to lay on. They may be too warm for summer nights but you will appreciate the extra insulation on colder fall and winter nights. That extra padding gives them a very luxurious feel too.
Tent heaters take the chill out of "off season" camping and cool nights. Catalytic heaters, either powered by white gas or propane, are available for under $100. Take care to follow instructions and allow adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation. A popular propane powered tent heater is the Buddy Heater. They include a shutoff if they get tipped over and a low oxygen shut down to make them safer to use in confined spaces. I still have an old Coleman white gas catalytic heater that works very well, but it takes about an hour to warm up so its not the most convenient appliance. You can buy wood burning stoves designed for use in tents but most tents are not designed to accommodate them. You need a fire-proof opening in the roof for the flue and should have a fire proof or at least fire resistant base on which to put the stove. They are mostly used in heavy canvas cabin tents. Anytime you have a flame-driven appliance in tent, whether a simple candle, lantern, or heater, always make sure you provide adequate ventilation.
Portable sinks make routine tasks like washing your hands, shaving, brushing your teeth, and doing dishes more convenient. I have one that has its own water supply built in. Essentially, the sink is molded into a water jug and equipped with a hand operated pump. When using a portable sink you'll need to figure out a way to dispose of the water. Mine has a drain hose so I can let it drain into a bucket. Some other options are glorified plastic dishpans and you have to take them somewhere and dump them. In any case, having any kind of sink at your campsite sure beats repeated and frequent trips to the campground sink -- if they even have one! Check out portable sinks at your military surplus store. One option is field surgical sinks, but less expensive and more portable one-person sinks can also be found. They usually consist of a plastic bowl that fits in a canvas and metal folding stand that folds up like a camp stool. You can even get collapsible portable sinks that take up little room when stored in your camp kit. Some portable sinks include a built-in 3- gallon water reservoir so they're mostly self-contained.
Luxury tents. Tents themselves come in many styles with many different features. You will or did probably start out with a very simple tent but options include multi-room family tents and tents with attached front porches, closets, vestibules, and awnings. I've even seen some that look like a Swiss chalet, with double peaks and plastic windows with the appearance of multiple panes of glass. Self-erecting "pop-up" tents are fun to use. Just take them out of their bag and toss them in the air. Poof! Instant tent! All that is left is to stake them down. Wrestling the springy things back into their bags is a different matter and may provide several minutes of amusement for your fellow campers. Truck tents and SUV tents might be considered luxuries by some people or essential by others. More than one user has gotten a bloody nose when the spring-loaded tent poles got away from him as he tried to twist it back into its compact storage mode.
For a luxurious tent floor, bring along some foam anti-fatigue mats. They are about 1/2" thick and lock together like a jig-saw puzzle or dove-tail cabinetry. These days you can even get bright colors instead of the dull, grey/black originals. They will protect you against a lot of the small debris that often pokes through the tent floor and makes standing or lying on it uncomfortable. They also supplement your sleeping pads, giving you extra padding and extra insulation against cold, damp ground.
Tent and camp site lighting was once limited to kerosene or Coleman lanterns and flashlights. Today there are an endless list of battery powered lanterns including those with built in solar chargers and those with remote controls. That luxury "remote control" quickly becomes a "must have" item on cold nights when you don't have to get out of your sleeping bag to turn the lantern on or off. LED lanterns and flashlights are far more efficient than the traditional incandescent models so batteries will last a LOT longer. I recently came across a 20-light string of battery powered LED tent lights, much like small Christmas lights, they are a bright white and, being LEDs, the batteries should last a long time. They were under $12 including shipping on ebay.
Canopies provide protection from sun and rain. Ranging from simple and inexpensive "dining flys" to cover your picnic table, to large "EZ Up" canopies, there is an option for just about everyone. Dining flys are essentially tarps with a set of poles, stakes, and guy ropes. They are typically set up over the picnic table, hence the name, "dining fly". The "EZ Up" models usually have the fabric permanently attached to the poles. They may require guy ropes in the wind, but are otherwise self supporting. This style is usually used as an independent shade for kicking back in your camp chairs. This is the kind of canopy often used by vendors at fairs, flea markets, and trade shows. Dining flies are typically around $30, self contained EZ up style canopies can run hundreds of dollars, depending on size and rated strength. You can sometimes find fairly inexpensive 10x10 canopies for around $75. One of my favorites is made like a dome tent -- light weight nylon fabic and shock-corded fiberglass poles. It is compact, light weight, takes up little room during storage or transport, and is easy to set up and take down.
Advanced ice chests range from "5-day" chests to 12-volt powered coolers. The "5-day" chests reportedly will keep ice in them frozen for up to 5 days, depending on how much hot stuff you add and how often you open the chest. Regular ice chests are usually adequate for most outings and are often a lot more affordable. Cheap styrofoam chests cost only a few dollars. Regular plastic chests are typically $20 - $50, depending on brand and size. 5-day chests run a bit more and can be found in both plastic and very durable stainless steel. Consumer tests during a hot San Fernando Valley, California summer with temperatures over 90 showed they DO work better. 5-day ice chests at Walmart range from about $30 to $110. 12-volt powered coolers are usually about the same size and shape as ice chests but instead of relying on ice to keep the contents cool they have thermo-electric systems that cool. Many of them have switches that allow them to be used as warmers instead of coolers. Truckers often use these to keep their food and drinks cold -- or their pizza warm -- on the road. They typically cost around $100 - $200 but I saw one small soft-side version for $39.99. Some include a 120 volt adapter so you can plug them in at home to pre-cool them. Using them in 12 volt mode allows you to keep things cool on the way to camp and, if you have sufficient battery reserve or run your vehicle engine periodically, in camp.
Camp cooking was once limited to the campfire but today there are many options. The venerable Coleman stove is considered a camp essential by most tent campers. Options such as ovens and toasters that sit on top of the stove extend its flexibility. A really nice luxury alternative is the portable stove and oven. These usually have two burners on top of an oven compartment all in a stainless steel framework. They are very attractive and mimic most of the features of your home range albeit in a smaller package.
Entertainment systems have come a long way. Long ago entertainment consisted primarily of a ball to toss around or perhaps a horseshoe set. Today the sky is the limit. With portable generators, you can bring along complete home theater systems for quality audio/visual performances in camp. Dozens of simple camp games, like lawn darts, have been developed that take up little room yet provide hours of fun. With a little imagination you could use a LCD projector with your computer or DVD player and entertain the whole campground.
And don't forget cordless tools. These modern wonders can add a lot of convenience to camping. While they may be more easiler carried in an RV, having a few appropriate pieces of equipment in your tent camping tool box isn't a bad idea.
Camp in comfort!
Portable generators are now light weight, quiet, and fuel efficient enough to be viable for use by tent campers, allowing them access to many of the conveniences of an RV, such as microwave ovens and electronic entertainment systems. Count on spending several hundred dollars for a portable generator. Older units that you might find good prices on will probably be heavy and noisy, so look for newer Honda or Yamaha powered models. They are light weight, quiet, and fuel efficient. You won't need the high wattage required to run the air conditioners on RVs. I have an 850 watt unit I use to charge the batteries and run lights and small appliances and power tools in my motorcycle trailer when we aren't using it together with our motorhome. It isn't enough to run roof AC on the trailer or the 120-volt air compressor. Portable generators used for AC equipped travel trailers usually need a minimum of 2,000 - 2,500 watts and most factory installed units are at least 4000 watts.
Portable hot water systems give tent campers hot water for showers and doing dishes. Prices are around $100 - $300 or so. Add a shower enclosure (about $50) and you can enjoy hot, private showers in your camp site while tent camping. Washing dishes is a whole lot easier when you can fill your sink with hot water just like you would at home instead of having to heat it in pans on your camp stove.
Air mattresses have reached the point where they sometimes rival traditional mattresses for comfort. Top of the line models may include built in manual or 12 or 120 volt pumps for added convenience. Individual, one person air mattresses are pretty cheap. Full size or larger mattresses with electric pumps push $100 or more but are far more comfortable. So-called self-inflating air mattresses expand when they're unrolled reducing or eliminating the need to huff and puff to fill them. Larger residential style mattresses usually inflate to 6-8" deep so, unless they spring a major leak, you're not going to feel anything that's under the mattress. Some air mattresses are so good you won't miss having them on a cot, but camp cots are another way to increase your nighttime comfort, especially if you have problems getting up off the ground in the morning.
Luxury sleeping bags give you 4-season comfort even on the coldest nights. You can get good summer bags for around $30. Good 4-season bags are going to cost a lot more, $80 to over $500! The pricier bags are light weight, down filled, and suitable for backpacking as well as car camping. The extra fill in 4-season bags tends to make them softer and more comfortable to lay on. They may be too warm for summer nights but you will appreciate the extra insulation on colder fall and winter nights. That extra padding gives them a very luxurious feel too.
Tent heaters take the chill out of "off season" camping and cool nights. Catalytic heaters, either powered by white gas or propane, are available for under $100. Take care to follow instructions and allow adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation. A popular propane powered tent heater is the Buddy Heater. They include a shutoff if they get tipped over and a low oxygen shut down to make them safer to use in confined spaces. I still have an old Coleman white gas catalytic heater that works very well, but it takes about an hour to warm up so its not the most convenient appliance. You can buy wood burning stoves designed for use in tents but most tents are not designed to accommodate them. You need a fire-proof opening in the roof for the flue and should have a fire proof or at least fire resistant base on which to put the stove. They are mostly used in heavy canvas cabin tents. Anytime you have a flame-driven appliance in tent, whether a simple candle, lantern, or heater, always make sure you provide adequate ventilation.
Portable sinks make routine tasks like washing your hands, shaving, brushing your teeth, and doing dishes more convenient. I have one that has its own water supply built in. Essentially, the sink is molded into a water jug and equipped with a hand operated pump. When using a portable sink you'll need to figure out a way to dispose of the water. Mine has a drain hose so I can let it drain into a bucket. Some other options are glorified plastic dishpans and you have to take them somewhere and dump them. In any case, having any kind of sink at your campsite sure beats repeated and frequent trips to the campground sink -- if they even have one! Check out portable sinks at your military surplus store. One option is field surgical sinks, but less expensive and more portable one-person sinks can also be found. They usually consist of a plastic bowl that fits in a canvas and metal folding stand that folds up like a camp stool. You can even get collapsible portable sinks that take up little room when stored in your camp kit. Some portable sinks include a built-in 3- gallon water reservoir so they're mostly self-contained.
Luxury tents. Tents themselves come in many styles with many different features. You will or did probably start out with a very simple tent but options include multi-room family tents and tents with attached front porches, closets, vestibules, and awnings. I've even seen some that look like a Swiss chalet, with double peaks and plastic windows with the appearance of multiple panes of glass. Self-erecting "pop-up" tents are fun to use. Just take them out of their bag and toss them in the air. Poof! Instant tent! All that is left is to stake them down. Wrestling the springy things back into their bags is a different matter and may provide several minutes of amusement for your fellow campers. Truck tents and SUV tents might be considered luxuries by some people or essential by others. More than one user has gotten a bloody nose when the spring-loaded tent poles got away from him as he tried to twist it back into its compact storage mode.
For a luxurious tent floor, bring along some foam anti-fatigue mats. They are about 1/2" thick and lock together like a jig-saw puzzle or dove-tail cabinetry. These days you can even get bright colors instead of the dull, grey/black originals. They will protect you against a lot of the small debris that often pokes through the tent floor and makes standing or lying on it uncomfortable. They also supplement your sleeping pads, giving you extra padding and extra insulation against cold, damp ground.
Tent and camp site lighting was once limited to kerosene or Coleman lanterns and flashlights. Today there are an endless list of battery powered lanterns including those with built in solar chargers and those with remote controls. That luxury "remote control" quickly becomes a "must have" item on cold nights when you don't have to get out of your sleeping bag to turn the lantern on or off. LED lanterns and flashlights are far more efficient than the traditional incandescent models so batteries will last a LOT longer. I recently came across a 20-light string of battery powered LED tent lights, much like small Christmas lights, they are a bright white and, being LEDs, the batteries should last a long time. They were under $12 including shipping on ebay.
Canopies provide protection from sun and rain. Ranging from simple and inexpensive "dining flys" to cover your picnic table, to large "EZ Up" canopies, there is an option for just about everyone. Dining flys are essentially tarps with a set of poles, stakes, and guy ropes. They are typically set up over the picnic table, hence the name, "dining fly". The "EZ Up" models usually have the fabric permanently attached to the poles. They may require guy ropes in the wind, but are otherwise self supporting. This style is usually used as an independent shade for kicking back in your camp chairs. This is the kind of canopy often used by vendors at fairs, flea markets, and trade shows. Dining flies are typically around $30, self contained EZ up style canopies can run hundreds of dollars, depending on size and rated strength. You can sometimes find fairly inexpensive 10x10 canopies for around $75. One of my favorites is made like a dome tent -- light weight nylon fabic and shock-corded fiberglass poles. It is compact, light weight, takes up little room during storage or transport, and is easy to set up and take down.
Advanced ice chests range from "5-day" chests to 12-volt powered coolers. The "5-day" chests reportedly will keep ice in them frozen for up to 5 days, depending on how much hot stuff you add and how often you open the chest. Regular ice chests are usually adequate for most outings and are often a lot more affordable. Cheap styrofoam chests cost only a few dollars. Regular plastic chests are typically $20 - $50, depending on brand and size. 5-day chests run a bit more and can be found in both plastic and very durable stainless steel. Consumer tests during a hot San Fernando Valley, California summer with temperatures over 90 showed they DO work better. 5-day ice chests at Walmart range from about $30 to $110. 12-volt powered coolers are usually about the same size and shape as ice chests but instead of relying on ice to keep the contents cool they have thermo-electric systems that cool. Many of them have switches that allow them to be used as warmers instead of coolers. Truckers often use these to keep their food and drinks cold -- or their pizza warm -- on the road. They typically cost around $100 - $200 but I saw one small soft-side version for $39.99. Some include a 120 volt adapter so you can plug them in at home to pre-cool them. Using them in 12 volt mode allows you to keep things cool on the way to camp and, if you have sufficient battery reserve or run your vehicle engine periodically, in camp.
Camp cooking was once limited to the campfire but today there are many options. The venerable Coleman stove is considered a camp essential by most tent campers. Options such as ovens and toasters that sit on top of the stove extend its flexibility. A really nice luxury alternative is the portable stove and oven. These usually have two burners on top of an oven compartment all in a stainless steel framework. They are very attractive and mimic most of the features of your home range albeit in a smaller package.
Entertainment systems have come a long way. Long ago entertainment consisted primarily of a ball to toss around or perhaps a horseshoe set. Today the sky is the limit. With portable generators, you can bring along complete home theater systems for quality audio/visual performances in camp. Dozens of simple camp games, like lawn darts, have been developed that take up little room yet provide hours of fun. With a little imagination you could use a LCD projector with your computer or DVD player and entertain the whole campground.
And don't forget cordless tools. These modern wonders can add a lot of convenience to camping. While they may be more easiler carried in an RV, having a few appropriate pieces of equipment in your tent camping tool box isn't a bad idea.
Camp in comfort!
RV Luxury Options
Were I to try to list ALL of the luxury options available to RVers, the list would be endless. No doubt there are new inventions being created that would make the list out of date before I could click "Publish". By the time you read the list, new additions might even be obsolete! With that in mind I will list some of the more popular and desirable features that are standard usually only on high end luxury units but often envied by the rest of us. Keep in mind that "luxuries" are, by definition, nice to have but usually not essential. However, it is surprising how quickly some luxuries become necessities to some people. Luxury features are usually not standard equipment on production vehicles except for very high end units but are often ordered or added by owners by the time they hit the used market.
The sky is the limit! There is virtually no end to ways you might enhance your RV if you have the initiative, imagination, and money. I've even seen RVs with a hot tub! While that is probably not a practical or even desirable option for most people, there are many luxury options that are useful, realistic, and even economically possible.
Near the top of my list are power levelers. Leveling and stabilizing an RV using leveling blocks or digging holes is a laborious, messy, and time consuming task. Fully automatic levelers do it all at the touch of a button. Once you activate the "Extend" feature, the coach automatically levels itself. The leveling jacks are extended and hydraulically adjusted until the unit is level. A manual mode allows you to change the positions of each jack, a useful option if you need to raise one wheel to change a tire. Hydraulic or electric levelers without the automatic feature require the owner to adjust each jack using a toggle switch or lever on the control panel until the unit is level. Clearly, the automatic option is the most convenient but any power leveling system is a lot better than none. When it comes time to break camp, moving the switch for the automatic system to "Retract" retracts the jacks and prepares the chassis for the road. Without the automatic feature the owner has to use the toggle switches for each jack to retract them. In all cases, you should get out and look beneath your rig to make sure the jacks are fully retracted before you attempt to move it. Adding hydraulic levelers to an existing unit is usually possible, but the high cost ($2500-$3000 plus installation) is a deterrent for most people. We kind of "eased in" to having automatic levelers. A Pace Arrow Class A we had a few years ago included a kind of leveling (but not stabilizing) via the air bags in the suspension. Then our luxurious Holiday Rambler had automatic levelers and I have to say I've really got to like them. Even to the point of wondering how I ever got along without them. I've been in places where they lifted the rear wheels clear off the ground to get the body level! I don't recommend doing that. Always block the front wheels with chocks. When the back wheels are lifted off the ground, the parking brake is of no use since it only locks the rear brakes. If any wheels are lifted off the ground, try to find a more level spot if possible. Levelers also stabilize the coach, which leveling blocks do not do. The use of leveling blocks can make the body level, but wind and movement inside the coach will still cause it to rock on the suspension. Levelers are connected directly to the frame and put the coach in direct contact with the ground so it doesn't bounce on its springs. Hydraulic levelers provide a convenience beyond saving the labor of working with leveling blocks. You can level your rig quickly when you arrive in camp without having to get out, a feature that is especially welcome in inclement weather. Levelers are one of the luxury options that, at least in my mind, are close to being a necesity.
Automatic electric steps add a measure of convenience. In normal mode they automatically extend whenever the door is opened and retract when it is closed. An override switch allows the steps remain extended or retracted as long as you like while in camp. They usually have a lock out that prevents the engine from being started while the step is extended. Electric steps can replace the manual steps on some RVs. Plan to pay about $500 plus installation. Extending a manual step doesn't require a whole lot of effort. The benefits of an electric step are mostly found in the convenience of having it move into place automatically when you open the door. This feature is especially nice when the ground is uneven or muddy and getting out of the vehicle to manually open the steps wouldn't be much fun. Electric steps usually have lights that come on automatically when the step is extended, adding a measure of convenience and safety at night. I have made it a point to convert my step lights to LEDs to conserve battery power when leaving the step out in camp. While clearly not necessary for most of us, electric steps are a luxury item that adds convenience and, if you happen to have a disability that makes it hard to bend over to open or close the manual step, a pretty essential feature.
Automatic transfer switches take care of switching from shore to generator power whenever the generator is started instead of having to plug the shore power cord into the generator receptacle. Prices range from about $50 - $300 plus installation. Kind of a lot to pay to avoid plugging in and unplugging a power cord, but it is much appreciated in bad weather and avoids the embarassment of calling a service tech for a "generator problem" when you forget to switch the cable. Once again, convenience is the watch word.
Inverters. Inverters are gaining popularity for providing 120 volt AC power from batteries so you can use your microwave or enjoy your entertainment system without having to run the generator. Though far from being standard equipment yet, they are showing up on more and more units. I thought I was being quite innovative when I installed one in an RV that lacked a 120 volt generator about twenty five years ago before they were offered on any factory units. Just seemed like a good idea at the time. Shortly after that I began seeing them in high end vehicles and now they are showing up on many units.
Automatic ice makers are small freezers with a connection to the RV's fresh water system to automatically keep the internal ice bin full. Of course you can make ice cubes in the freezer in your RV refrigerator, but you have to fill the trays yourself and you it can take along time to make enough ice to meet your needs. An automatic ice maker works like the one in your fridge at home, turning out ice cubes until the bin is full, then shutting itself off until you remove some of the ice. Not cheap. Figure around $600 plus installation if your rig doesn't already have one. There are portable ice makers too, with claims of around 25 #s of ice per day. Portable ice makers can be found for around $150 or so.
Dishwashers are still fairly rare in RVs but are gaining acceptance. They usually take the form of a drawer that often replaces the gas oven (which in turn has been replaced by a microwave/convection oven).
Washers and dryers are fairly common in large luxury RVs and appeal to folks who go full timing or work camping. They aren't particularly practical for boondocking because of the water consumption, but having a dryer to toss wet clothing into if you get caught in the rain can be handy. If you have washer and dryer be sure to use them once a month or so to keep them in good working order. Allowing them to sit unused for long periods is an invitation to premature failure.
Trash compactors are found in some luxury RVs but in my experience most RVs don't even have a waste basket or a good place to put one, let alone a trash compactor. Seems like a kind of natural addition since space is at such a premium. Being able to pack the trash down so it doesn't take up so much room seems like a good idea. Of course you can always stomp your trash down to compact it!
Upgraded mattresses these days even include the famous "Sleep Number Bed" in sizes made for RVs. The mattresses in many standard level coaches are minimal at best and often break down faster than you would hope. Replacing a poor or worn out mattress or even adding a nice memory foam topper will add a lot of luxury to your sleep with little effort (except for paying for it!).
Hmmmmm. I'm seeing a trend here. Seems like we all like features that do the work for us or at least make things more convenient or more comfortable. The list continues...
Satellite TV receivers come in several forms, ranging from portable dishes you set up outside your RV to top of the line roof mounted dome units that even realign themselves automatically as you drive, allowing your passengers to watch satellite programs on the road. In between are roof mounted dishes you align manually in camp. You need a subscription to one of the satellite TV services in order to use them.
Home theater systems are finding their way into RVs. Flat LCD screen TVs are lighter and have a smaller footprint than older CRT models, making big screens feasible in RVs. Powerful sound systems, some with computer programs what measure and compensate for acoustical defects produce near theater-quality surround sound experiences. Satellite receivers let you get programming virtually anywhere. There both manual and automatic satellite dishes. Some automatic dishes can even be used while in motion. Home theater systems enhance any RV entertainment system to increase performance and enhance the viewing/listening pleasure. You may be able to adapt residential components for use in an RV, but take care in mounting them to make sure they are secure, and, when possible, isolated from road vibrations. Systems designed for RV use are "hardened" to withstand RV conditions (vibration, temperature swings, etc). Sometimes just upgrading your speakers or adding additional speakers will greatly improve the sound of an RV entertainment system. Upgrading old, heavy, bulky CRT televisions to new flat panel models usually allows you to have a bigger, clearer screen for improved viewing pleasure, reduces weight, and reduces energy consumption. It might also give you more room to install additional components, such as audio amplifiers, VHS, and DVD players. Sound bars are a really easy and fairly inexpensive way to upgrade the audio on your TV. Some, like Sceptre brand TVs and sound bars have all the controls for both on a single remote.
Exterior entertainment systems let you enjoy audio-visual presentations out on your "patio". The earliest and least expensive versions were simply radios or radio/cassette players. These days you will see big screen TVs and Surround Sound speaker systems. You can entertain the whole camp with some of these. Just be sure the whole camp WANTS to be entertained when you turn it on and turn it up!
Closely related to entertainment systems are computer and Internet access. The hot spot feature on most smart phones can give you Internet anywhere there is cell coverage. Speaking of cell coverage, cell phone booster systems can greatly improve your range -- if you are willing able to pay several hundred bucks to acquire them.
Exterior kitchens may include a sink, small refrigerator, stove, and BBQ grill. These compact kitchens usually slide or swing out from an exterior cabinet under your patio awning and provide all the facilities you need for outdoor dining. A simplified version is just an outdoor BBQ, but even that adds convenience.
A second trend: we like our amusements and entertainments.
Slide outs began as options on luxury RVs and are rapidly becoming standard equipment. When they first came out I saw companies offering conversions to add slide outs to existing units, but the high cost has made it diminishing market. The last time I checked adding a single 14' slide out to an existing RV would cost close to $30,000, usually making it way more cost effective to trade up to a unit that already has slide outs -- and trading up would avoid possible engineering failures for adding a slide-out to a unit that was never designed to accommodate the extra weight or leverage.
More luxuries turned standard equipment. Once considered high end luxuries, on board generators are pretty much standard equipment on most Class A and many Class C motorhomes. They are still often optional on Class B motorhomes and many travel trailers. Today's advanced portable generators offer portable power in a light weight, quiet, fuel-efficient package. Portable generators are not quite as convenient as on board generators. On board generators usually have electric starters and can be turned on and off from inside the RV at the flip of a switch. You will usually want to set up your portable generator some distance from your RV or tent (but not near anyone else's). You have to unload it and they usually have a rope pull starter although electric starters are options on some. Then you just need to run your RV shore power cord to the generator and you're in business. Microwave ovens were once luxury options, but are now pretty much standard equipment on most newer RVs. Fortunately, they can usually be added for a few hundred dollars if your RV doesn't yet have one. Roof air conditioners have become common as standard features on most motorhomes and travel trailers. Adding an air conditioner to an RV that doesn't have one is quite expensive. The units themselves run around $700-$1000 plus installation. If you are camping with full hookups you can usually take advantage of them even if you don't have a generator. Some large units with two roof air conditioners may require 50 amp power to run both units at the same time. Vehicles equipped with 30 amp systems can probably only run one AC at a time. These units will usually have a switch that selects which AC gets power at any given time so you can manually switch them back and forth to keep the whole RV cool. A fancier and more expensive setup is a timed switch that automatically switches between the two units. If you plan to run an air conditioner using a portable generator, choose one with at least 2,000 - 2,500 watts output. Most on board units are at least 4,000 watts. Believe it or not, showers and toilets were once luxury options. Early units relied on a "Porta-potty" when boondocking or to avoid trips to the campground restrooms. Almost all motorhomes and travel trailers these days are also equipped with a hot water heater and have showers. Some even have small bath tubs. I've even seen custom units with hot tubs!
Awnings are standard features on many RVs but there are always luxury options you can choose for an upgrade. Power awnings open and close at the touch of a button. Rain and wind sensors can automatically close power awnings before they are damaged by bad weather. Many awning accessories are available to improve convenience. De-flappers reduce noise and potential tearing from wind; light strings can be attached to the accessory slot in the awning rail to illuminate your "patio" at night; screens and privacy curtains can turn the awning into an outside room; 12-volt fans can create a cooling, artificial breeze on hot days; on REALLY hot days you can add a mist system. Recently I've seen a fancy, color-changing LED rope light for RV awnings. They are kind of pricey (around $100) but provide a variety of colors for different moods and even have a hand held remote control.
Powered roof vents are a nice addition to just about any RV. Standard roof vents are just a screened and domed opening to allow warm air to escape. You'll be surprised how much cooler it can be in an RV with the roof vents and a couple of windows open. Since heat rises, the hot air will exit through the roof vent, drawing (hopefully) cooler air in through the open windows. Just the movement of air through the interior makes it feel cooler even if the air coming in isn't. Powered roof vents usually have two-way fans that can either expel hot or foul air or smoke or draw in cool air. Universal fan kits are available to add a small fan to almost any existing vent. Of course you'll need to run 12-volt power from somewhere. Fancier roof vents, like the Fantastic brand units, have large, 10-12", multi-blade fans. Available upgrades include power raising and lowering of the dome, a thermostat, and even a rain sensor to close the dome if it rains while you're away from your RV. Thermostats are a popular option, allowing you to set the temperature at which the fan will turn off so when it cools down at night you don't need have to get up to shut it off or wake up freezing. Remote controls are also available for some models so you can manage them from the comfort of your couch or bed and also not have to drag out a step stool to reach the controls when they're mounted on high ceilings.
Washers and dryers, as previously mentioned, are usually only found in large, high-end motorhomes and trailers but add an almost residential capability for anyone living in their RV for extended periods. We didn't seek his option, but since it came with one large RV, we have found it useful. If nothing else, being able to dry rain-soaked clothing between activities is a god-send. There are both stackable washer/dryers and combinations that put the washer and dryer in a single unit. The combos obviously take up less floor space and usually weigh less, but you have to wash AND dry a load before you can start the next one instead of putting a load in the dryer and starting the next load in the washer. Using your washer will consume significant amounts of fresh water and quickly fill your holding tanks when dry camping, so be frugal in their use. They are much more practical when staying in campgrounds with full hookups. BTW, if you have washer and dryer, be sure to use them regularly. Disuse allows them to deteriorate and you will find they don't work right when you do need them.
Central vacuum cleaners are sometimes found on high end units. The motor and bags are built in and you use a long hose with attachments to clean your unit from stem to stern. While this provides a level of convenience, I found a simple canister vacuum more than adequate and far less expensive. And it takes up about the same cabinet space as you would have to sacrifice to install a central system. The shorter hose of the canister vacuum is easier to store and easier to handle. I have an older Kenmore cannister that includes a power vacuum head so it is nearly as powerful as an upright without the added weight and space.
Outside kitchens are gaining popularity. Some are fairly complete kitchens built into the side or rear of the RV. Smaller versions occupy an exterior storage compartment in basement model coaches. Adding a complete outside kitchen to an existing RV would probably cost a lot more than its worth, but you might be able to set up basic functionality in an existing outside storage compartment. The convenience of having kitchen facilities right there under your patio awning makes serving you and your guests fun and easy. Lacking a cabinet where you could install kitchen facilities you might use a "camp kitchen" or a chuck box meant for tent camping to organize your stove, grill, cooler and other items for outside use.
And don't forget cordless tools. These modern wonders can add a lot of convenience to camping. A cordless drill can be used for many tasks around a modern RV. One of my favorites is a small 4.5 volt screwdriver from Worx. It has an extendable shaft which makes it handy for reaching into deep spaces where shorter, fatter drill/drivers won't fit. I found it surprisingly powerful and the battery quite adequate, especially for such a small unit. With a few hex-shank drills it can even be used as a drill.
You have earned a little luxury! Enjoy!
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