Installing RV Awnings

RV awnings come in a variety of awning styles, ranging from "bag awnings" that are rolled up and carried inside the RV to elaborate power awnings with wind sensors that automatically roll them up if the wind kicks up.  As you might expect, there is also a wide range of prices.  RVs with slide outs often have automatic awnings installed over each slide that roll out when the slide is extended. Window awnings are nice to have.  They provide shade and can be used to prevent light rain from entering open windows letting you enjoy the fresh air during a mild rain storm.   Stand alone awnings are commonly referred to as "canopies" and aren't attached to an RV.

Permanently mounted manual awnings are the most popular, although power awnings as standard equipment are catching up.  Manual awnings are, of course, less expensive than the power version.   Both roll up against the top of the side of your RV and have arms that fasten to brackets near the top and bottom of the side wall.  They can usually be used either with the arms still attached to the bottom brackets or in "patio mode", where the arms are moved out to a vertical position and staked to the ground.  When still attached to the brackets, the arms form an angle from the roller on the outer edge of the awning to the bottom brackets, sometimes creating an obstacle that people bump their heads on.  When using the arms in patio mode they should be staked down to prevent unwanted movement.   In patio mode the supports are vertical at each corner.  To further stabilize patio awnings, you can install an awning strap.  This wide nylon strap is secured on either end by corkscrew shaped anchors that screw into the ground.  The strap wraps over about the middle of the awning from the front of the vehicle to the back to hold it down.  Another useful accessory for patio awnings is pair of "de-flappers".  These devices clamp to the awning fabric and fasten to the end rafters to reduce flapping of the fabric in mild breezes. I 've seen two different types, one that fastens around the end rafters with velcro straps and another with rigid plastic clamps that are tightened around the awning arm.  Long awnings tend to sag in the middle and benefit greatly from an extra (optional) support in the middle.  A set of optional supports marketed under the name "Awnbrella" can be used to lift the awning and stretch it kind of like an umbrella to give it a form that lets rain run off without puddling.   Another good helper is an awning clamp that wraps around the awnings to prevent them from unrolling in the wind during travel.  Having experienced an awning coming unrolled on the freeway, I have a great appreciation for awning clamps.  Manual awnings usually have an awning wand to snag a loop in the middle of the rolled up awning to pull it open.  The one that typically comes with the awning is a rod about 5/16" in diameter and about 3 1/2' long.  It has a loop on one end that serves as a handle and the other end has about an inch bent at a right angle to slip into the awning loop.  If you've lost yours or just want something that isn't so big to carry around and keep track of you can buy telescoping versions that push down to about a foot long and can be stored in one of the galley drawers along with kitchen utensils.  I tried one of these and the tip came off the first time I used it.  The telescoping awning hook is a really good idea -- if it were better made!  While the telescoping feature makes it easy to store it also means you can't use it to push the lock on the awning roller or use it to push bedding into place on corner and over-the-cab beds.

Power awnings are becoming more popular but are still fairly pricey.   Power awnings can be extended or retracted at the touch of a button.   They also come with options for rain and wind sensors to automatically retract them when rain or wind is detected and with remote controls so you can operate them from the comfort of your camp chair or even some distance away if the wind kicks up unexpectedly or from inside your RV if you don't want to go out in the rain!  If you do roll them up when it is raining, be sure to open them up and let them dry out as soon as  you can to prevent mold and mildew from destroying the fabric.

Bag awnings are usually less expensive but aren't quite as convenient to use.  They can also be used on more than one vehicle by simply installing an awning rail on each vehicle.  Bag awnings have one edge that attaches to the awning rail on the RV.  The outside edge is supported by 2 or more poles like tent poles and secured by guy ropes, like a tent.

Window awnings also use the same type of rail as other awnings but the rail is screwed into the framework around the window, directly above the top exterior window frame.  Window awnings, like permanently attached patio awnings, have attached arms, but no top brackets.   The top of the arms are attached to the roller. You will need to install bottom brackets.  Arms on window awnings are fixed length, so you have to install the brackets wherever the end of the arm strikes the sidewall when the awning is open.  Sometimes this will be in line with the framework around the window, but if not, simply securing the brackets through the RV "skin" with pop rivets or short metal screws is usually sufficient. You will also need to install a little bracket to fasten the awning pull strap to to hold the open awning in place.

To install any awning you will need an awning rail attached to the vehicle.  For patio awnings, this is usually attached just below or sometimes behind the drip rail at the top of the side wall. You need a sturdy support behind the thin wall paneling to screw the rail to.  This is the most critical factor for installing awnings.   Before installing any awning, make sure there is sufficient room above your door so the door will open without hitting the extended awning.  In addition to the awning rail itself you will need dozens of self-tapping screws and enough butyl tape (sometimes called "dum dum tape" to match the length of the awning rail.  The tape seals the rail to the vehicle and seals around the screws to prevent rain intrusion into the side wall.  A power drill/driver is pretty much required, although you could get by installing the screws by hand if you drill pilot holes first.  Make sure you don't kink or pinch the opening of the rail.   Once the rail is in place, you can slide the awning into it. For bag awnings, installation is done.  All that is left is unrolling the awning and installing and staking down the poles.  For permanently mounted awnings you may want to put a short screw through the mounting rib that slides into the rail and into the rail to keep the awning from sliding forward and back.  The next step for permanently mounted awnings is to install the top brackets.  Make sure the awning is fully retracted and mark the location for the brackets on each end. Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws, which are much larger than the self-tappers used to secure the rail. Typically these are like 1/4" lag screws.  Once the top brackets are securely screwed on, using a level to make sure the arms are vertical, mark the location for the bottom brackets.   The legs are adjustable and you must find a place on the wall with solid backing to fasten the brackets to.  This usually is at floor line.   Once you have decided where to put the brackets, make sure the arms are straight up and down, mark the holes, drill pilot holes, and install the screws.   Your awning should now be ready to use.

For power awnings you'll need to install the wiring.  An interior switch will control extending and retracting the awning.  There may also be a remote control that let's you stand outside and control the awning.   You'll have to drill a hole through the side wall to route the wires.  Make sure will have access to the wiring inside the vehicle.  Find a source of power and a place to connect a ground wire and run the wires.  Hiding the wiring inside the bottom shelf of cabinets is way to achieve a clean installation -- and you usually have 12-volt power available in light fixtures you might be table to tap into.   However, keep in mind the motors on the awning will draw significantly higher amperage than lighting.  The best way of wiring the awning is to give it its own circuit and fuse.   Tapping into the wiring for lights may overload the circuit.  Upgrading the fuse to keep it from blowing would allow the existing wiring to overheat, possibly causing a fire. NEVER use a higher amp fuse than a circuit was originally designed for. Doing so turns the wiring into the fuse so the wiring melts before the fuse blows!  Make sure you seal the hole where the wiring goes through the wall using silicone sealer.

 
Some variations for bag awnings.  I found the poles and guy ropes for a bag awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer were cumbersome and often got in the way when moving my dirt bikes around so I rigged a way to install the poles against the bottom of the trailer.  I simply put large screws into the bottom edge of the side wall at approximately the angle the poles would be when the awning was extended.   The bottom end of the poles slip over these screws instead of resting on the ground.  Then I added eye-bolts close by and used light weight ratchet straps from the eye-bolts to the upper end of the poles at the extended awning roller.  That way the guy ropes and the poles are aligned and mostly out of they way when walking under the awning.

Finally, you could use a canopy and not have to attach it to your RV at all.   Free standing canopies are usually less expensive than attached awnings, but are less convenient to transport and to use.   It could be used next to an RV in lieu of an RV awning.  One possible downside is that a gust of wind might slam it into the RV, damaging both the canopy and the RV.  You can use a free standing canopy with your RV or take it with  you tent camping, so it offers a little more flexibility than an attached RV awning.   Canopies may be self-supporting like the famous E-Z-up models or have to be tied down with guy ropes.  There are even some these days with structure similar to dome tents that are light weight and easy to put together.  A free standing canopy (often called a "dining fly ") can be set up over your picnic table if needed for shade or rain protection.  Many canopies include a center pole for extra headroom.  Dining flys omit the center pole since it would land smack in the middle of the picnic table.

Now you have made the shade!

Building Your Own RV

Building your own RV is certainly not for everyone.  It takes a lot of planning, time, and money.   Why would anyone want to go to all the trouble to build their own RV?   Some people will opt to build their own in an attempt to save money.   Sometimes that works, but unexpected expenses can drive the price up rather quickly.  Most people have no idea what is involved and get some rather unpleasant surprises as they proceed.   Some people may want to build their own RV to implement specific features into the design to meet their needs.  Someone who is extra tall may need higher than standard ceilings, raised countertops, and a longer bed than is available in production models.  You may have a hobby that requires special work space or storage.  Do as much research and planning as you can before you begin.  Small motorhomes can be built into a conventional van.   Larger models will need a bigger truck or bus as a starting point.  No doubt you have seen converted school buses on the road.  Home-made conversions can be ugly or interesting, depending on how skilled the craftsman is and how much he is willing to invest in cosmetics.  I've seen some very "interesting" adaptations, like a VW van given an expanded roof by the addition of a VW beetle body welded to the top.  Sure looked strange!  Other variations include wooden shack like structures on a pickup or heavy duty truck that look like they belong on an Ozark mountaintop instead of the highway.  I've seen photos of a very sleek custom made aluminum "Starstreak" motorhome built on a 1976 Cadillac El Dorado chassis.  This vehicle now lives in the RV Hall of Fame in Elkhart, Indiana.  Be sure to watch the slide show for their Featured Units.  Many of you probably recall the multi-colored school bus used by The Partridge Family on the TV show of the same name.  It was colorful and functional but not what you would call beautiful.

If you have the budget for it, you can, of course, have an RV custom built to your specifications.  Newell and Foretravel both specialize in building customer coaches to spec and many other major manufacturers will work with you to adapt their high end products to meet your needs.  Unfortunately, these units often cost over $1,000,000!

Before attempting to build your own RV consider whether there is already something out there that will meet your needs. There are many different styles of RVs in existence and it may be a lot faster and even cheaper to buy one than to build your own.  Used RVs can often be had for very little money.  You may be able to adapt a factory model to your personal needs fairly easily.  But, if you are determined to build your own, read on!

I have never built my own RV but I did build (or more accurately adapt) my own motorcycle trailer, which has many RV like components.  I purchased a custom made motorcycle trailer from an engineer who had built it for his own use and no longer needed it.  One of the things I really liked was it was built on a 5500# single axle (most single axles trailers are only 3500#).   I also appreciated the sturdy steel frame construction that made it suitable for off road trips. It came with a rear ramp door, counter across the inside of the front over a nice Kennedy tool box.   I added peg board, additional lights and wiring, a water tank, pump, and sink, and eventually even a roof A/C.  I put in shelves and closet rods to store riding gear, a rack for tie downs, and racks to secure my gas cans.  When it was done it was almost a motorcycle shop on wheels!  Building it was almost as much fun as using it and I got a lot of nice compliments from my fellow riders.  Having appropriate tools, equipment, and spare parts on board allowed me to lend assistance to many of my riding companions over the years.

One way to minimize engineering (and cost) is to customize an existing RV to your individual specifications.   Many times it is easier and cheaper to modify an existing unit than to start from scratch.  You may be able to take advantage of fresh water, waste water, propane and electrical systems without having to design and engineer them yourself. 

Your first step is to determine what kind of RV you want to build:   motorhome, truck camper, or trailer. One of the most popular home-made units is the tear drop trailer.   They can be built from scratch and plans are available on the Internet.  In this case you buy an axle and build your own chassis from the ground up.   The next most common conversion is creating a motorhome from an old bus.  I've seen converted school buses, city buses, and Greyhound buses.  Greyhounds or other inter-city buses make the best platforms.   City buses are often geared for lots of stop and go driving which is not always the best configuration for a motorhome you want to go places in but I have seen successful conversions done on old city buses.   Don't know how long they lasted or what kind of gas mileage they got, but they were well built and very functional.  School buses are probably easier to come by, less expensive, and should be an acceptable platform if they've been well maintained.  As mentioned above, you might remember the multi-colored bus on the old TV show "The Partridge Family".   The presence of an existing bathroom on inter-city buses sometimes saves the builder some time and money -- if you're OK with the location of the existing restroom.   If not, it may be an added expense and construction problem to relocate it.   If you don't need lots of room, you might start with a standard cargo or passenger van.  One advantage of using a van, is they usually will fit in your garage.  The venerable Chevy Stepvan is another fairly popular choice with do it yourself motorhome builders.  Its open, boxy shape allows lots of interior design flexibility and stand up head room.   If you want to build a truck camper you're going to most likely have to build it from scratch and you'll need some good plans to ensure structural integrity.  My first motorized camping vehicle was a 1951 Chevy Suburban with minimal modifications.  I added curtains for privacy.  Sleeping bags rolled out on 1/2" foam pads in the back of the vehicle provided beds.  A folding TV tray, a plastic dishpan, and 3-gallon plastic water jug served as both kitchen sink and hand washing basin.  A large Coleman cooler substituted for a fridge.  Eventually we even added a porta-potty.  It wasn't fancy but it sure beat trying to set up a tent in the dark or the wind!  And it wasn't very expensive at all.  Even driving it was fairly cheap.   It had the original Chevy 6 cylinder engine and a manual transmission and, of course, ran on the lowest priced regular gasoline.  As rudimentary as it was, it was a lot warmer and more comfortable and convenient than camping in a tent.  And it didn't require any structural modifications.

Planning is one of the most critical steps. Y ou will want to list all the features you want to have and try out several floor plans. Keep in mind your floor plan may affect what kind of vehicle you choose for the platform and, in turn, what vehicle you get may affect your floor plan.  Allow some flexibility or be willing to make adjustments based on features and limitations of your platform. Some of the basic considerations should include:  how and where you intend to use the completed unit, how many people will be traveling in it, and the ages of the travelers (accommodations for kids may be different than those needed for adults).  If anyone in your family has any disabilities you may need to include accommodations in your design for their special needs.  Your design might also be influenced by any equipment or appliances you may already have.   A fairly good cost-saving way of getting much of what you need for a conversion is to buy a cheap used or salvage travel trailer and use it as a donor for cabinets, appliances, holding tanks, and furniture.

Weight is always a major concern for an RV.   RVs are usually framed with 2x2s, not 2x4s or 2x6s like houses.  Using 2x2s gives you about 4" additional interior space and about half the weight as 2x4s, both significant advantages for an RV.  I've seen an RV built like a house, using 2x4 framing and then using 1/2" sheetrock for interior walls.  Wow!  Was that thing heavy!   It will certainly be sturdy, but I wouldn't want to drive or tow something like very far or very often.  Might be OK for a "tiny house" used for a permanent residence that usually doesn't go anywhere.

Choosing the basic vehicle for your conversion is one of the most important steps.  Price is probably a major factor.  Otherwise you could just have million dollar custom Newell or Foretravel built to your specifications.  You will also want to consider the condition and the brand and model of major components, like the engine and transmission.  Seek vehicles with a drive train for which parts are still readily available.  You shouldn't have any trouble finding parts and service for those with Caterpillar or Cummins power plants and Allison transmissions or for GM, Ford, and Dodge trucks. Greyhound buses usually already have an existing bathroom so that may be an advantage -- IF you are willing to have the bathroom where it already is.   If you have designed your own floor plan with a bathroom somewhere else, already having one won't help and may even make things more difficult. While buses are most frequently chosen as the platforms for home-made motorhomes, other trucks are sometimes used too.  The venerable Chevy "Step Van" provides a sturdy option for smaller motorhomes and may be less expensive than a bus.  You can also be assured that mechanical parts will be available.

Major interior components include cabinets, appliances, plumbing fixtures and furniture.  You might be able to adapt cabinets from a donor vehicle or buy new ones at a home center.   Cabinets from home centers will probably be larger than would normally be used in an RV so you may have to adapt the cabinets or adjust your floor plan to accommodate them.  Residential sinks and toilets are usually too big and too heavy to use in RVs.   It is nice to have a donor vehicle to supply appliances, furniture, plumbing fixtures, and holding tanks.  Purchasing a donor vehicle before you finalize your design allows you to have exact specifications for the construction of cabinets and the installation of appliances and furniture.  The donor vehicle doesn't have to be the same style as the one you're building.  You can salvage lots of useful components from an old travel trailer to build your own motorhome.

Finishing the interior.   Some buses already have finished interior shell walls.   Retired Greyhounds usually do.  School buses are more likely to have naked walls.  If your platform doesn't have finished exterior walls, frame the interior with 2x2 lumber, add insulation (bats or foam panels) and cover with 3/16" or 1/4" paneling.  You might want to use FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) board in the bathroom and kitchen areas.  It is attractive, easy to install, waterproof, and easy to clean.   Insulating interior partitions between living spaces is optional.  While it may help you to maintain comfortable temperatures in your living space if you are only occupying a single area (like the bedroom at night), the main benefit is probably soundproofing.  Given the low cost and the ease of installing insulation during construction, I would opt to put it everywhere I could.   Use 1/4" luan plywood for interior sheeting.   If you like the wood pattern of your interior panels you need no further interior finish. However, for variety or to satisfy personal decor preferences, you could paint or wallpaper the paneling to suit your needs.   If you plan to paint or wallpaper you'll probably want to use smooth paneling, not the kind that is grooved to look like planks.   Even if the lines aren't stamped or grooved, they may still show through paint.  If they are smooth and only painted on they shouldn't affect wallpaper but they might bleed through paint and then you would have to prime the walls with something like Kilz to cover them up before painting.

Floors in an old Greyhound or school bus can probably just be carpeted over.   If the floor is metal and is all there is between you and the road, you might want to build it up a bit to reduce road noise, heat from the exhaust system and the pavement, and improve overall insulation qualities. Accommodating plumbing within the floor can make your rig more usable in winter weather.  This would be especially true if you also run your heat ducts in the same compartments as your plumbing. How you build up the floor depends on whether you will be using the space for plumbing and duct work.   If you are not running plumbing inside the floor, put a vapor barrier directly on the existing floor.  If you want to insulate the floor, add a framework deep enough to accommodate the amount of insulation you want to use.   Then install marine grade plywood. Typical residential sub-floors use particle board.   Because of the stress and the potential for water getting in the particle board, I don't recommend it for RV use.   If it gets wet, from a plumbing leak or rain intrusion, it will crumble. Once your plywood is installed you can install your chosen flooring (carpet, tile, vinyl, laminate). Flooring in factory built RVs is often installed before any cabinets or furniture but it is up to you whether you want to do it that way or not.  It may be easier to replace or upgrade the flooring later if it is not installed under cabinets and you may save a few square feet of flooring material.  Carpet with thick padding will provide extra insulation for heat, cold, and sound.

Finishing the exterior.   If you're building a Class B motorhome (van conversion) you may not have to make any changes in the exterior, if the existing paint is acceptable.  Some inter-city buses are have aluminum exterior "skin" that looks good without painting.  You may have to remove existing bus line decals or paint and give the rest a really good buffing.  The areas under paint or decals may be shinier than the original exposed surfaces and it may be difficult or impossible to restore full shine to aged surfaces, forcing you to paint the rig to get a satisfactory cosmetic appearance.  You might be able to get creative and cover the areas where the old logos were with new graphics or murals.  School buses can be repainted and in some jurisdictions, MUST be changed from their original yellow/orange color, but even with a snazzy paint job, it will still look like a school bus!   The addition of chrome wheel simulators adds a nice touch to just about any RV.   If you have the budget for it, you might remove the old painted bumpers and grill and have them chromed to help tone down the school bus image.  Upgrading to heavy-duty off-road style bumpers will give your rig a powerful, brutish or military look and personality while adding useful off road protection, but can be quite expensive.

Wiring your home-made RV shouldn't be a big problem for anyone with familiarity with wiring techniques and requirements.  If you aren't comfortable with electrical wiring, enlist the aid of a qualified electrician.  I did all my own wiring on my enclosed motorcycle trailer.  I recommend being generous in your installation of both 120-volt and 12-volt outlets and lights.  It is a lot easier to run wiring during construction than after! Y ou will probably have two wiring systems: 12-volt and 120-volt.  The 12-volt system will power your interior lights and provide places to install 12-volt accessories.  You may also want to run speaker wires for radios and entertainment systems.  Minimum components would include one or more batteries, a converter, and a fuse panel.   I suggest you plan for using 2 6-volt batteries wired in series for your 12-volt system.  6-volt golf cart batteries are stronger, have more power, and last longer than 12-volt RV batteries.  Your converter should include a high power (at least 40 amp) multi-stage battery charger.   You may find cheaper converters without strong battery chargers.  In that case, you might simply add an automatic automotive battery charger.  When doing your own wiring you have the option to run switches to convenient locations. Something that is very handy but few RVs have, is a 3-way switch for the water pump, with one switch on the main control panel and a second switch in the bathroom.   If you have trouble finding 3-way switches you can wire DPDT switches to serve the purpose.  You have to wire them so that in one position the hot wire is connected to the fixture and in the other position the hot wire is connected to the other switch.  When I wired my enclosed motorcycle trailer, I used ordinary 120-volt residential light switches in convenient locations (like just inside the door) instead of puny little 12-volt toggle switches that often have a tendency to get broken off.  I even used standard 3-way 120-volt switches for my outside work lights so I could turn them on and off from a waterproof outside switch.  Your second wiring system is the 120-volt wiring.  You need a shore power cord, or at least a way to plug into shore power.   I copied something I'd seen on older truck campers for the power connection for my motorcycle trailer.  It is called a "motor base" and is essentially a male plug built into a receptacle so you can plug the female end of any heavy duty extension cord into it.  This works OK for low power requirements.   If you plan to have a roof A/C you will need at least a 30-amp circuit to power it, and that takes a stronger connection and a heavier power cord. Your 120-volt shore power should run directly to a set of circuit breakers that protect all the on board circuits.   Roof A/C should have its own circuit.  So should any other high power appliances. Your 12-volt converter should also have its own 120-volt breaker.  The converter converts 120-volt AC power to 12-volt DC power.   If you plan to have a microwave oven, install an outlet inside the cabinet where it will go and put it on its own circuit breaker.  You will want to run outlets to convenient locations throughout your RV. Check with an electrician to decide how many outlets you should put on each circuit.   I like to separate the circuits "geographically" so if something trips a breaker, it will be easy to know where the problem is.   If ALL the outlets are on one circuit, anything could be the culprit.  I would put the street side of each "room" on one circuit and the curb side on the other.  Plus a separate circuit for the kitchen and the bathroom.   That means in a typical RV with a living area and a bedroom, I'd have at least 6 outlet circuits, but that might not be possible on a 30 amp service since each circuit would be at least 15 amps.   Bathroom and kitchen outlets should be GFCI protected.  GFCI protection can be provided via special breakers or outlets.  Regardless of how many outlets or breakers you install, keep track of the total amperage of your appliance to be sure you don't exceed the input capacity for your RV (typically 30 amps, sometimes 50 amps on larger units with multiple air conditioners).  The input power cord should be connected to a main breaker that is rated properly for the power cord.  Take care running all your wiring and avoid anyplace it could be pinched or frayed.  Use grommets to protect wiring passing through metal or through any panels with sharp edges.  You might want to install a few 120-volt lights at various locations inside and outside your RV.   If you do the wiring yourself, I strongly suggest you familiarize yourself with residential wiring codes and make sure you meet all the minimum standards for wire gauge, circuit breakers, etc.   Make sure all connections are tight.  If you are going to have an on board generator, you will need to either install an automatic transfer switch to switch between shore power and generator power or install a receptacle tied to the generator into which you can plug your shore power cord when you want to use the generator. RVs are typically wired with either 30-amp or 50-amp service, with 30-amp being the most common and what you will find at more campgrounds.  Large luxury motorhomes and trailers may have 50-amp service.  What you need is determined by the total electrical load you expect to operate simultaneously.  If you have a 30-amp supply and enough high power appliances to exceed 30 amps, you will need to alternate use of some appliances.   Otherwise you'll blow circuit breakers to perhaps even overheat some wiring and cause a fire.  I've seen people use adapters to connect their 30 or 50 amp motorhomes to an ordinary 15-amp household outlet and run a standard duty extension cord to accommodate long distances -- and I've seen the extension cords melt before tripping a circuit breaker.  You may have to do some math to determine what your load is -- or can be at any one time. Most appliances are rated in watts.   Watts = volts * amps, so to get amps, divide the watts by 120. Thus, a 1200 watt, 120 volt appliance, like an iron or a hair dryer, will draw 10 amps.

Plumbing is a major part of your design and construction process.   Sinks and shower pans designed for residential use probably won't fit in comfortably in an RV so you'll need fixtures designed for RV use.  You need to understand the right slope for proper drainage.  If your RV is going to be used for winter camping, you will want to protect the plumbing from freezing by enclosing holding tanks and heating the compartment containing dump valves.  Drains can be built using ordinary black ABS pipe you would use in a residential application.   Fresh water lines are usually plastic or PEX and may require special crimping tools for making watertight connections.  Most RVs are designed so the toilet empties directly into the top of the black water tank.   If, for any reason, your toilet cannot be placed over the black water tank, you will need to buy a special power flushing toilet.  Grey water from sinks and showers need only have the right slope for proper drainage plus "P" traps and vacuum breakers to control odors.  Sewer lines must also be vented up through the roof. You will need to locate fresh water and waste water holding tanks in appropriate locations.  If you plan to use the RV in freezing weather, all water tanks, both fresh and waste, should be in an enclosed and heated space or equipped with heating pads.  Black water holding tanks normally need to be located directly below the toilet.  Put your dump valves as close to the tanks as you can where you can conveniently reach them and where they will drain the waste tanks completely.

Propane systems are needed for the stove, furnace, hot water heater, and most refrigerators.   The propane tank must be located outside the living space in a well ventilated area.   Motorhomes should have permanent propane tanks.  Trailers usually have removable tanks.  You will need to consider the location of your tank and the location of your appliances and plan proper routing of gas lines to supply fuel to each appliance.  Trailer tanks are usually mounted on the trailer tongue.   If you are building an RV that will ONLY be used in full-hook up campgrounds you might be able to get by with all electric appliances.   They could even be used for short periods with power from an on board generator, but you wouldn't want to count on using a generator to provide electricity for heating your RV at night.  Running your generator at night is prohibited in most campgrounds, is inconsiderate to fellow campers in primitive camp sites, and it can be dangerous.   Should an exhaust leak develop or you just get the wrong breeze, you could be killed by carbon monoxide as you sleep.  Carbon monoxide is tasteless and odorless and is known as "the silent killer".

That brings up the subject of warning systems.   You must install smoke detectors in your RV to meet RV codes and for the safety of you and your traveling companions.  Carbon monoxide detectors are highly recommended.   LP Gas detectors are also required on commercially built units and you should plan on including one if you are building your own RV.  While RV propane systems are usually pretty robust and reliable, normal road vibration can cause connections to loosen and leak and you definitely want to know long before the concentration reaches a critical level, which is something around 22,000 parts per million.  Detectors are usually set to go off at about 1/10 that concentration, providing a good margin of safety.  Be sure to buy RV rated detectors.  Residential models won't stand up to the vibration and stress of travel.

Hybrid conversions.  I don't know what else to call them.  I use this term to describe travel trailers mounted on truck chassis.   The very first "motorhome" I ever encountered was built and owned by a neighbor back in Idaho.   He had removed the bed of an old pickup truck and mounted a small Shasta travel trailer.  This kind of work takes some heavy lifting and carefully engineered mounting but avoids all the tedious work of building cabinets, doing plumbing and wiring, and installing appliances and furniture.  You have ready-made living quarters.  For this kind of work you'll need some heavy duty hoists or cranes to lift the trailer and position it on the truck chassis.  You will have to design and build appropriate mounts and braces to attach the trailer to the truck frame. 

Building your own RV can be a very satisfying and rewarding, if time consuming, experience. Chances are, no matter how well you plan, you will encounter unexpected obstacles, costs, and delays or things that won't fit quite the way you thought they would.  Keep that in mind and be prepared for it.  I recommend setting aside at least an extra 20% (time and money) for surprises that come up along the way.

With all this in mind, creating a basic camping vehicle need not be an overwhelming job.  You may want to start small and get some practice before undertaking a major conversion.   It will also give you time to assess you needs and wants. My first "camper" was an old Chevy suburban that was a retired maintenance vehicle from a local school district. I didn't do any real "conversion" per se.   I just added curtains on the windows for privacy and stocked it with my tent camping equipment (stove, ice chest, sleeping bags).  A 3-gallon plastic water jug and and plastic dishpan provide for basic hygiene and washing dishes.  Essentially, it was my "tent on wheels".  It certainly wasn't fancy, but it sure was nice to roll into camp, roll out our sleeping bags in the back, and be ready for a good night's sleep while our fellow campers were out wrestling with their tents in the dark and the wind. And it was really pleasant to listen to the staccato sounds of the rain on the metal roof instead of worrying about our tent leaking in a downpour or listening to it flap in the wind.  Just imagine how much more secure (though a bit noisy) it is in hail!   Our trusty Coleman lantern was usually all the heat we needed in the limited space on cool evenings.  Technically, it couldn't be described as a motorhome, but it did provide a lot of camping convenience at very low cost.  An old van or StepVan would work well too, especially if they have stand-up head room, which my Suburban didn't.  It isn't much fun trying to get your pants on when you can't stand up.  That's where an SUV tent might have been a good addition but since that was before Suburban's were classified as SUVs, it wasn't an option at the time.   Of course you could always set up a cabin tent adjacent to your vehicle to serve as a dressing room and extended living area.  Today you can do wonders with an SUV and available accessories.

Do it yourself!

Spare Parts for RVs, OHVs, Boats, and Camping

Over the years I've found it useful to maintain a supply of spare parts for my RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.   The first dirt bike trip we took I didn't even have spare spark plugs for our dirt bikes -- a definite problem for 2-stroke engines that foul plugs quite easily.   I soon learned to carry not only spare spark plugs, but spare brake and clutch levers, master links to repair broken chains, spare inner tubes, and a variety of nuts and bolts to keep things together.   I also find it helpful to stock spare parts for camping equipment.  Stoves, lanterns, tents, sleeping bags, and backpacks all need repair sooner or later and it is REALLY nice to have the right parts and patches already on hand. Being able to repair things on the spot can prevent damage from getting worse as well as saving your outing.

Some basic RV or other vehicle parts I recommend everyone should carry include fan belts and radiator and heater hoses.  I also carry a thermocouple or two in case I need to fix a furnace, water heater, or refrigerator.  They are only used on older units.  Newer appliances with computer controls use a thermal sensor instead of a thermocouple.  Extra hose washers are good to have, especially if you have access to city water hookups.   Extra nuts, bolts, and screws of various sizes also come in handy. A universal faucet repair kit or a "storehouse" of faucet washers can also be useful if something starts to leak out in the boondocks.  An extra dump valve is essential if yours is prone to get knocked off. Some hang down way too low and are all too frequently damaged.   I like to carry a couple of compression elbows and compression sleeves in case something happens to the fresh water tubing.  Spare light bulbs for all the different light fixtures will definitely come in handy.  Most RV incandescent lights use a standard, single contact, automotive 1146 bulb.   I like to carry some spare, dual contact 1157s for tail/stop and park/turn signal lights too.  Some extra dash lights will let you see your instruments and some clearance marker bulbs may be needed from time to time.   Might save you an unscheduled stop by a highway patrolman and perhaps even avoid a fix-it ticket.  Check your owners manual or pull some sample bulbs to be sure of the part numbers you need for each application.  You might find LED equivalents that would reduce power usage.

Spare OHV parts will be determined by the type of OHVs you have and what kind of things typically go wrong -- and by the kinds of repairs you are comfortable with or capable of doing.  I've found that spare spark plugs, spare levers, and spare inner tubes are basic items and have saved many a weekend outing.   Spare fasteners are essential since things tend to come loose frequently out on the trails.   When I first started riding I had to get a handful of spare nuts and bolts from the mechanic at my motorcycle dealer.  Today you can buy nice little compartmentalized boxes of fasteners specifically selected for the needs of most dirt bikes and ATVs by brand at your local motorcycle/ATV shop.  The $20-$50 you invest will pay itself back in only a few outings and is sure to me far less than you'd pay if  you had to take your machine in for repairs.  Having the right parts makes repairs easier.  Not only will they look and fit better, you avoid possible further damage by trying to make do with fasteners with the wrong threads or ones that are too long or otherwise incorrect.  If you can't find a ready-made kit for your ride, get a "storehouse" of metric fasteners from your local hardware store or Harbor Freight or just buy a handful of the size you use most frequently at your local hardware store.  They may not be as cosmetically correct as factory parts or the ones from branded kits, but at least they'll hold things together until you can get home and get the right parts. 

Likewise, the spare parts you need on a boat will depend on the type of boat.  The things you need on a sailboat will be different than what you need on a power boat.  Basic spare parts for a sailboat include shackles, sail tape, and rope repair items.  Parts for a power boat will depend on the type of motor and other features on board.  Hose clamps are usually a good idea to have around if you have any plumbing on board.

What kind of spare parts do you need for your camping equipment?   Extra tent pegs are always good to have on hand.  Extra tent poles could also be helpful.  A grommet kit for repairing or adding grommets to tents or tarps is always useful.  A tent repair kit is essential.  They usually include nylon patches for fixing tears in the tent fabric and some netting to fix holes in screens.   These patches can usually be used to repair sleeping bags and nylon jackets as well.  Some of the patches are self adhesive and very easy to use.   For sturdier and more permanent repairs bring along a heavy duty sewing kit, which should include an awl as well as large needles and strong thread.   Some tent repair kits include parts to repair fiberglass shock-corded tent poles or you can buy tent pole repair kits.  Spare parts for your Coleman lanterns and stoves are essential.  Lantern mantles are quite fragile and it is not unusual to go through several pairs in a single weekend outing.  Repair kits for the pumps for gas lanterns and stoves are fairly small and inexpensive and can save an outing.  Generators for lanterns and stoves run about $12-$15 but are worth much more than that if you need one unexpectedly.   If you have any backpacks, spare anchor pins that hold the canvas to the frame and buckles for the belts and straps are items that are frequently lost or broken on the trail.  Extra rope for tying down your tent or securing tarps should be on your list.  I also like to have a handful of "cord locks", those little spring thingies that hold sleeping bag cords tight when the bag is rolled up.   You can often buy them in bulk at bargain prices on ebay.  I paid $1.50 for 2 at a local sporting goods store when I needed some right away.  Later I found a package of 50 for $3.45 and free shipping on ebay so I'm stocking up for future needs . A ball of binder's twine will always find many uses around camp.   Stocking spare batteries and bulbs for your flashlights should go without saying.

Purchasing ALL the spare parts you may need at one time could be quite expensive so you may want to make a list and do a few things at a time.  That also allows you to keep an eye out for bargain prices on the things you need to stock up on.  You should prioritize your list so you can get the most important things first, but buying least expensive things first or taking advantage of special sales are also good strategies.  If you see something that isn't on your list but you think will be useful, grab it while you can!  Otherwise you'll soon be kicking yourself out on the trail when you need it.   I don't think I have EVER looked at a tool or spare part in my trailer, RV, or fanny pack and said "Gee, I wish I hadn't bought that" but there have been MANY times I've been in the position to say "Gee, I wish I had gotten that when I had the chance!"   I have found ebay to be a good source for many tools and spare parts for RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.

Anyway you cut it, having spare parts on hand will save time and often save money as well as avoid untimely interruptions of your activities.  Feel free to expand on the items suggested in this article to include anything that you think will make your outings less stressful and more successful.  If you find you repeatedly need certain things during your trips or have to make trips to town or the camp store for things, add them to your supplies.  In the long run it will save you money as well as time and frustration.

Stock up!

RV Parts and Accessories

There are way too many RV parts and accessories to list in a single article.  The list would be endless and would undoubtedly be out of date by the time I could click the "publish" button, let alone by the time you read it.  However, there are some traditional parts and accessories that are worth mentioning and watching for bargains on.  

So what is the difference between "parts" and "accessories"? You can think of "parts" as essential components of your RV and "accessories" as optional features or gadgets that add convenience or fun.  Even if you don't have an immediate need for some of these things, you might want to snag them while they're available if you come across them at a good price.  For years I've "stockpiled" some frequently needed RV parts and accessories so I have them on hand when I need them.  Things that could be used as replacement parts on your current RV should be high on your list.   For example, I grabbed a complete Chevrolet P-30 instrument cluster on ebay.com . Turns out I then moved on to a Gillig-based Holiday Rambler so I didn't think I'd probably never use it, but when I owned several P-30 based motorhomes, I had a spare in case of failure.  Now I have another P-30 based motorhome so it may yet come in handy.  I got it on ebay at a very reasonable price so it didn't involve tying up a ton of money.   Gathering parts for older motorhomes before they become scarce is something to think about.  You also may want to consider investing in interesting accessories you might want to add or to have on hand for a subsequent RV if the price is right and you can both afford it and have a place to safely store it until you can use it.   No point storing a set of RV dinette cushions if they're going to be susceptible to deterioration due to weather, sunlight, insects, vermin, or humidity.  On the other hand, disposable items or things that tend to need to be replaced often are always good to stock up on.  I still have a spare motor for the electric steps on my motorhome.

Roof vents and covers.  Because of nearly constant exposure to sunlight, plastic roof vents and covers tend to deteriorate over time and have to be replaced every few years.  Covers for many 14x14 vents are interchangeable and ANY 14x14 vent can be fairly easily removed and replaced by another brand.  When buying replacement covers, make sure they will fit your existing vents.  Different brands have slightly different designs that make them incompatible with each other.   Since changing the cover itself is much easier and cheaper than changing a whole vent, having a few extra matching covers on hand has saved me a lot of time, frustration, and money over the years.  In some cases I bought whole new vents and have always found a good use for them.  Some roof vents include 12 volt fans. The least expensive versions have small vans mounted within normal 14x14 vents.  More powerful models, like the Fantastic vents, have large 10 or 12", multi-blade fans than move LOTS of air.  Most vents are or can be wired to be reversible so they can be used to exhaust hot inside air or draw in outside air.  Simply reversing the polarity of the 12-volt dc connections will usually do the trick and you can do this by cross-wiring the fan to a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch so you can swap hot and ground wires going to the fan.  The more expensive powered vent models usually have multiple fan speeds and may even have rain sensors and thermostats to automatically control the fan and close the vent when needed.  You may need to consider the thickness of your roof in order to get vents and interior trim that will fit.  Most vents allow quite a bite of flexibility, but if you have a particularly thick roof (like some vehicles with ducted A/C in the ceiling) standard vents might not be deep enough to fit.

Another thing I've found useful to stockpile are lenses for various RV light fixtures.  This includes tail lights, clearance lights, porch lights, and interior lights.  These light weight plastic lenses are easily damaged and it is handy to have a supply of replacements on hand -- especially if you can get them at bargain prices.   I look for closeouts at RV and auto parts stores as well as good deals on ebay and other online sites.   For older units look for items described as "NOS" (New Old Stock).  I also keep several complete light fixtures on hand in case one fails -- or I want to add one to a new rig.

Salvage yard bargains.  Some things you might want to pick up from a "retired" RV at a salvage yard (if the price is right) might include windows, converters and water pumps.   I've had to replace enough of them over the years to know that having them already in inventory can save me a lot of time and money.  They have also provided a resource to build up the capabilities of my enclosed motorcycle trailer.   I have also been able to get really good deals on a furnace from an old camper and a roof air conditioner from a motorhome, both of which found their way into my motorcycle trailers over time.

12 volt fans have several useful functions in an RV.  Mounted at the windshield, they can help reduce fogging in damp, cold weather.   On warmer days they can provide a cooling breeze to the driver and co-pilot.   Installed near the seating, dining, or sleeping areas, they can help make those areas more comfortable.   Portable models, equipped with spring clamps, can be plugged into 12-volt sockets (like cigarette lighter sockets) and moved about as needed.  You can sometimes find these fans on sale in auto stores and department stores like K-mart and Walmart.   I like to have a couple of backup fans on hand and keep my eyes open for good deals.  If you shop for them online, be sure to include the shipping cost when you compare the price to local stores.  Sometimes shipping and handling will push the price way above what you can get it for locally.  And never assume an auction price will be lower than retail.  I frequently see people bidding way high on items that are readily available in local stores.   For example, I recently saw a bid of $32 for a standard trailer/BBQ sized propane tank, and shipping of such a heavy and bulky item will push the cost even higher. Similar tanks are routinely available at Home Depot for around $29.97 -- and you get it right away and you don't have to pay shipping when you pick it up at the store.  Make sure any bulk propane tank you buy meets current standards.  That means a portable tank must have an OPD (Overfill Protection Device).  It is not legal to refill the older tanks anymore.  If you have one that still has some fuel in it you can probably use it up on your camper or BBQ but you won't be able to refill it.  I've seen kits that can be used to convert retired propane tanks to compressed air tanks so that might be a useful option.

Awnings are always nice to have, both large patio awnings and smaller window awnings.  As they can be quite expensive, it is good to watch for bargains on them.  Both ebay and craigslist are good sources for possible candidates.   I haven't found it economically practical to "stockpile" awnings, but I have been able to equip several vehicles with window awnings at a fraction of the regular retail price as needed using ebay.   I have usually had to settle for plain white awnings instead of color coordinating them with the RV paint scheme like you would if you bought them at an RV store, but, at least to me, the savings was well worth it.   I've also gotten a couple of used patio awnings for my enclosed motorcycle trailers at bargain prices. If the awning color doesn't meet your needs, you can usually paint them any color you choose using vinyl paint.  I changed one from magenta to blue and again to brown that way to match changing color schemes on my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Lighting options are as varied as your imagination.  There are many choices for both interior and exterior lights. LED lights have the advantage of saving battery power, but the bulbs are quite expensive.  Typical 12-volt incandescent automotive type bulbs used in traditional RV fixtures are typically under $1.00 each.  You'll pay about 5-10 times that for LED replacements.   Of course they will last much longer than regular bulbs and will conserve battery power -- definitely an advantage when boondocking.  LEDs last a very long time and over their lifetime will be cheaper than continuously replacing damaged or burned out incandescent bulbs.  To ensure you gain the financial benefits, consider how long YOU will be able to use the LEDs, not just how long they are rated to last.   If you trade RVs every 3 years or so or don't expect to keep your RV, you'll never see the savings.   Immediate benefits of upgrading to LED lights are clear, bright illumination and reduced battery drain.

Kitchen accessories.  The list of gadgets promoted for use in RV galleys is endless and growing every day.  And you certainly aren't limited to what you find in camping and RV stores.  You can find useful items many other places, like your favorite grocery store, department stores, even dollar stores. We found a clever little single beater mixer at Dollar Tree.   It works like a push drill.   Each push of the handle rotates the beater about 10 times.  It is made of plastic and isn't designed for heavy use so you wouldn't want to try mixing bread dough with it, but it is small and light so it is easy to transport and store and works very well for mixing smoothies and other single-serving beverages and other light mixing tasks like scrambling eggs.   And it requires no power, except a little muscle power.  Anything that conserves power when boondocking is an advantage. High end RVs often have built in power centers for mixers, food processors, and a variety of attachments.  Nutone is one popular built in brand whose attachments include blenders, mixers, can openers, knife sharpeners, and ice crushers.  If your RV isn't equipped with one, you can sometimes find them on ebay.  You'll probably have to run 120 volt power under the counter for it unless there is already an outlet inside the cabinet.  The benefits of such systems include convenience and not having to carry separate appliances, but the attachments can take up quite a lot of room.  Expect to pay $600 - $700 for a complete Nutone system.

RV ladders often do more than provide access to the roof.  Watch for attachments to carry camp chairs and bicycles.  These handy racks attach to your RV ladder, providing a convenient location to carry bulky, light weight items like camp chairs and bicycles.  When using them make sure the items don't cover your tail lights.   I added some PVC sleeves to my ladder to hold the pole for a 500-watt halogen floodlight for when we need a lot of campground illumination.

Storage options, like roof pods or racks that mount in your trailer hitch are worth watching for. There are also hitch-mounted "trunks" that provide enclosed external storage.  Since these items tend to be kind of pricey, you'll want to watch for sales, closeouts, and good deals on used items.

Dress up items, like wheel liners, are a nice addition to any RV that has ordinary steel wheels and wheel covers.   Not only do they provide a modern, upgraded appearance, the bolt-on versions eliminate the rattle that sometimes is found with wheel covers.   Other dress up items include upgraded rear view mirrors, roof or windshield post mounted search lights, and air horns.  I always added bumper guards to the van bumpers on my Class B RVs.   Driving and fog lights can improve visibility and safety as well as dress things up a bit.  I have a set of combination driving lights on my current Class A motorhome.   Each light has a split lens, half yellow (for fog lights) and half clear (for driving lights).   Fog and driving lights can be purchased at any auto parts store or the automotive department of any department store.  Be sure you wire them in accordance with state laws.  Some states only allow driving lights to be used in conjunction with low-beams.  Others require driving lights to be dimmed like high beams when approaching another vehicle.  In any case, take care to align fog and driving lights to give you maximum lighting of the road WITHOUT shining in the eyes of approaching drivers.  This usually means aiming them somewhat low and to the right.

Compasses, altimeters, and clinometers are also useful additions to most motorhomes and tow vehicles.  You may also find them helpful when car camping.   My favorite compass is a monster called a RoadMaster, but I don't think it is still available new.   You might find an older one on ebay.   It can be wired into your dash lights for nighttime viewing.   Altimeters tell you altitude.  A clinometer indicates the attitude of the vehicle -- front to back and side to side.  This can be helpful in finding the most level spot in your campsite.  They are also sometimes used in off-road vehicles to measure extreme positions and (hopefully) avoid roll overs.  Standard glass-vial bubble levels are inexpensive, easy to install, and let you get a pretty precise leveling of your unit -- IF you install them correctly with the vehicle level in the first place.  The ones designed for cockpit use are each about 3" long but you can get huge versions to mount on the front of a trailer so you can see it in your rear view mirror.   Always make sure the vehicle is level before you install bubble levels.

GPS and navigation devices are still a bit pricey, but provide wonderful functionality in helping you through unfamiliar territory.   I've had built in navigation systems in my daily driver but would never do that again.  A portable or hand held unit, is much more flexible as you can use it in multiple vehicles.  Most current models provide visual and voice turn-by-turn directions as well as lat/long coordinates.  Some even accept voice commands so they can be used hands free.

If you need RV parts, I've found the folks at Winnebago Outdoor to be especially helpful.   Many RV manufacturers use the same parts so you may find what you need even if your RV isn't a Winnebago brand.

Accessorize!

RV Restoration versus Repair

What is the difference between 'restoration' and 'repair' and why should you care?   One big difference will be the difficulty, extent, and cost of restoration versus an adequate but not 'authentic' repair.  How much time, effort, and money, are willing/able to put into your RV?   Can you find parts to restore your vehicle?   Is there any reason you need to keep it authentic?

Restoration is restoring a vehicle to its original condition as closely as possible.   There is a particular pride in maintaining a vehicle in original condition.  Those who restore classic cars are very meticulous in tracking down OEM parts to maintain the integrity of their restorations.  They are usually concerned about meeting show standards or sustaining an authenticity that will support high sale values. Since there isn't currently much of a market for "classic" show RVs, you probably won't be driven to adhere to the level of originality imposed on restorers of classic cars, but for personal pride you may want to do the best you can.  It is usually easier to replace matching parts than to have to modify the installation to accommodate alternate solutions.   Restoration parts may sometimes be found at distributors who specialize in obsolete inventory -- "New Old Stock" (NOS) is the term to look for.   RV salvage yards and sometimes even your local auto junk yard may have used components to replace missing or damaged pieces of your RV.  Restorers of classic cars sometimes resort to having parts re-created by machine shops when they can't find original replacements.  This can be a very expensive and time consuming process.  While I won't tell you NOT to try this approach, just be aware it may take some doing to even find a shop who can and will do the work you need and expect to pay handsomely for any custom work like that.  Having the old part -- or surviving pieces of it -- may assist them in designing and manufacturing a replacement.  If you are attempting to restore an older RV, you will want to try to replace any damaged or dysfunctional appliances with the closest replacements you can find.  That will probably mean searching salvage yards or even buying a similar "donor" vehicle you can scavenge for parts -- IF you can find one!  You may not need an exact match (brand and model) to get appropriate appliances, just one of approximately the same year for replacement appliances but you'll need a very close match for body parts.  I once salvaged a box full of cabinet hardware from a camper in a junk yard that matched the hardware in my vintage Smuggler trailer.  It was really good to have that box of hinges and latches to make repairs as needed over the years.

Repair is fixing things that are broken or damaged.  Using original equipment equivalents for all repairs is desirable, but not critical.  They will fit better and you won't have to make any additional modifications. However, for older units, finding an exact replacement may be difficult if not impossible. A simple example would be taillights. Exact replacements may be hard to find, but new lights that will be functionally equivalent and legal, though cosmetically different, can be easily obtained.  You might even want to upgrade to LED tail lights.   If your goal is maintaining your RV in legal, usable condition, simple repairs and upgrading parts to new versions is perfectly acceptable.   A hole in the roof caused by an errant limb might be successfully patched, but if you were doing a restoration, you may have to replace the entire roof covering.  A hole or tear in an exterior side panel might be camouflaged using a residential furnace vent cover as an acceptable repair, where restoration would require replacing the damaged panel with an exact match.  The vent cover protects the damaged area and often provides a cosmetically acceptable solution, allowing the owner continued use of the vehicle without expensive repairs.  I've personally used this solution on a couple of enclosed motorcycle trailers.   When repairing an RV, you can replace broken or damaged appliances with newer models.   I would try to match them as closely as possible to the originals to reduce modifications required for installation, but other than that, upgrading to newer, more efficient appliances with added features may be a very good move and might reward you with increased functionality, performance, efficiency, and improved resale value.

Structural repairs can be expensive and time consuming, whether you're doing a restoration or just a repair.  Structural damage occurs from impact, age and normal vehicle twisting and vibration, and by water and sun damage.  Fixing structural problems usually involves removing the interior or exterior paneling in the affected area and replacing and reinforcing the underlying framework.  Take care not to damage the paneling when you remove it so it can be reinstalled.  Do a careful analysis of the problem before beginning any structural repairs.  Loose or damaged cabinets are often a sign of underlying problems, but in some cases the damage may be limited to the cabinets themselves and you don't want to tear your walls or ceiling apart if it is only a cabinet problem.

If you choose to repair rather than restore your RV you will want to search for replacement components that closely match the size and any gas, electric, or plumbing connections on the originals.  Exact replacements, while not required for repairs as they are for restorations, are still a good idea since they will save time and effort and maintain original fit, function, and appearance.  Furnaces and heaters have specific vent configurations for both the combustion (air intake and flue) and for heat distribution. Some older furnaces don't use fans or have any distribution outlets. They just rely on convection within the coach to carry warm air from the front vent panel to the rest of the room.  Do not try to add a fan to these types of furnaces unless you can get an approved fan conversion kit from the original manufacturer.  You might be able to move air around where you want it using external fans.  Upgrading stoves, refrigerators, and hot water heaters usually involves modifying the cabinet or compartment to fit the new unit as replacements are likely to be a different size or shape.  You may also have to lengthen or shorten gas and electrical lines.   Old gas refrigerators often didn't have any electrical power requirements other than the interior light but modern, computer-controlled units do, so you might have to run some new wiring.  Older hot water heaters had to be lit from the outside of the coach.  Newer models have electronic ignition and all you have to do is flip a switch, again requiring some new wiring.  The water heater switch is usually part of a general control panel, but in a retrofit situation you may just want to install the switch in a convenient internal location near the water heater since running wires to the existing control panel could be difficult or even impossible.   Sometimes you can buy new or good used cushions to replace damaged, missing, or worn out dinette cushions.  If your cushions are still structurally sound they can be reupholstered.  And it is possible to replace the foam if it has been damaged beyond use.  You probably can't match the original fabric on older models so even in a restoration scenario you may have to settle for something close.  If you're really lucky you may find extra matching material in valances, pillows, or under chairs and sofas you can salvage to make some small repairs. In repair mode, you can choose any new fabric you like.   Sturdy fabrics with a Scotchguard treatment will resist dirt and staining and provide years of good service.  Unless you're changing window treatments and flooring you will probably want to stick with a color that is compatible with the existing components.  For a restoration you would want to try to match upholstery patterns, but for repair you may want to upgrade to give your RV a newer look.

Exterior decals on older units may be worn or faded.  Finding exact replacements may be very difficult.   You might luck out and find someone with NOS decals tucked away in storage somewhere but more likely you'll have to either do your best to revive the existing decals or opt to duplicate the design in paint.   For a repair you can repaint your RV anyway you choose.   For a restoration you will want to retain the original appearance as much as possible.  You may be able to get a sign shop to create replacement decals for logos and complex designs.  It will help a lot if you can come up with a good digital photo of what you need.  We needed to replace a decal on one side of a motorhome and, fortunately, the one on the other side wasn't badly damaged so we just took a picture of it and had them reverse it for the other side.  You might be able to take photos of decals in good condition on units for sale or maybe even find some photos on line can use.  If worse comes to worst, you might need to have a graphic designer create a digital file from which your replacements could be printed.  You may have to resort to purchasing vinyl sheets from which you can hand cut replacement designs for swirls and other large graphics.  You can buy simple stripes in a wide variety of colors and widths so you can usually replace worn, faded stripes pretty easily.  Often the old stripe will leave some kind of shadow you can follow to install the new one.  If not, carefully measure and mark a pencil line to guide you in placing the new one correctly.  Vinyl striping is usually somewhat flexible and can be stretched to conform to gently curved surfaces.  If you have sharp curves in the design you may have to contact a sign shop and have a decal custom made.  You might also be able to hand paint damaged stripes or lettering to restore them.  We used automotive touch up spray paint.  We sprayed some paint in a small container and used various sized watercolor brushes to paint the stripes and the peeled and faded letters of the brand name.

Badly rusted chrome parts can usually be cleaned and re-chromed.   This might apply to bumpers, grilles, mirrors, and door handles.  The good news is that most RVs don't have a lot of chrome these days.  The parts have to be removed and thoroughly cleaned.  New chrome is applied in an electroplating process. It isn't a quick or cheap solution but properly done, the parts will come back looking like brand new.   For a first rate restoration, re-chroming is almost mandatory and is a great way to repair rusted parts on any older unit.  If the rust isn't too bad, you may be able to clean and polish the item in place.  One way to begin removing gross rust is really cheap: rub it with a copper penny.  The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't damage remaining chrome.  Then finish the job with a good metal or chrome polish.  If the chrome is worn through you can mitigate further damage by painting the raw metal.  Try using one of the metallic chrome spray paints.  They are inexpensive, easy to use, and while they don't quite lay down a perfect chrome finish like the one on the cap of the can, they give an appearance that is much better than rusty spots and prevent further rust.

Tire sizes on some older rigs may now be obsolete but any reputable tire shop should be able to match you up with closest modern equivalent.  You will want to pay particular attention to the outside diameter, wheel width, and dual spacing to make sure your replacements will fit and function properly.  It would be a good idea to weigh the coach at all four wheels to determine the load rating you'll need and to inflate your new tires to the correct pressure based on the weight of each corner for optimum performance.  If weighing isn't practical (you need to take the rig to a truck scale), inflate the tires per the owner's manual or ID plate.  If you have no indication, start by inflating the tires to the  maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall and adjust it from there.  Under-inflation can result in poor handling, overheating, and blowouts.  Over-inflation typically causes rapid wear in the center of the tread and makes the vehicle feel skittish due to lack of contact with the road.  I once put new tires on an Isuzu 4x4 pickup and it felt really dangerous until I backed off on the inflation.  When I went back to the dealer to complain I happened to notice my tire tracks where I'd driven through a small puddle in the parking lot:  they were only about 1" wide!  The tires, inflated to the maximum pressure indicated on the side-wall, were way over-inflated for the light weight mini truck.  Letting some air out of the tires until the footprint was normal quickly restored proper handling.

Keep it going!

How Often Do You/Should You Go Camping?

The simple answer to how often should you go camping is:  as often as you can!  How often you go camping will affect a lot of aspects of your camping life.  Things such as how and where you store your RV or camping gear, how much preparation it will require for each trip, how and what you do for post-trip clean-up and storage may influence how often you can go -- or how often you want to go may dictate how and where things are stored.  When you go camping will usually be determined by  the availability of discretionary time, e.g., not in school and/or not working. Where you go and what you do will determine travel time and equipment/preparation needed.  Where and how you store your equipment may affect how often you go camping and vice versa so it is a two-way street.   If everything is convenient and ready to go you may be able to take frequent spontaneous trips but if you have get your stuff out of storage across town each time, it may inhibit your urges and require a lot advance planning.   If you have no other choice but some remote location, you'll need to plan ahead.

When you go camping usually requires setting aside time and putting it on your schedule.   That is absolutely essential if you have a job or in school or have any other regular obligations.  However, even if you are retired you may need to put it on  your calendar so you don't let other distractions get in the way.  There always seems to be something that tries to demand your attention and take you away from fun activities.  It is important to realize that having fun IS an important activity itself!  We need balance in our activities to maintain health lives and it is way to easy to get caught up in routine demands that preclude our letting ourselves have fun.

The more often you go camping, the better you will do each time.   You may "get rusty" during any extended layoff.  Frequent outings will help you maintain your skills -- and have more fun!  Regular use of well maintained vehicles and equipment will usually extend their useful lifetimes.

How and where to store your RV or camping gear.  If you go camping frequently, say at least one a month, you'll want to have your RV and/or camping gear close by where you can keep it ready to go and have access to it for spontaneous trips.  If, on the other hand, you only get out a few times a year, it may be OK to store your RV in a storage yard and you might even put your camping gear in a self-storage locker if you don't have room for it at home.  Where your store your RV and camping gear may affect how often you go camping.  Sometimes zoning laws or the size of your property will force you to seek off site storage for RVs, boats, etc. If you must store things remotely, you're less likely to take spontaneous trips.  Remote storage also restricts how useful your camping gear might be in an emergency.  If you're storing your tent camping gear at home and using it frequently you'll want to have it easily accessible.  When you don't expect to be using it for several months, a less convenient or more remote location would be acceptable.   Having your RV or tent camping gear at home will make it more usable in a disaster situation.   If it is in some storage lot or private storage facility some distance away it will be of little use.

How much preparation will it require for each trip?  If you store your RV and/or camping gear at home you can more easily keep everything ready for when you want to go on an outing.  Having to make a trip to a storage yard or retrieve your stuff from a locker is going to inhibit how often and how much time you spend making sure it is ready.  When it comes time for your next outing you may need to allocate an extra day or so to retrieve and prepare your gear.  Even stuff stored in an indoor storage facility may need some extra cleaning before you can use it again.  And some equipment can deteriorate over time.   The leather gaskets in gas stoves and lanterns dry out and sometimes need to be oiled or replaced before they'll work again.   Residual fuel sometimes clogs orifices or spiders build webs in propane appliances.  Given the amount of maintenance and repairs idle equipment might need to be put back into service, give yourself plenty of time.   Don't just figure you can pick it up on the way out of town and have everything working right, even if it was the last time you used it, especially if it s been a while since its been used.

How and what you do for post-trip clean-up and storage?  If you're stuff is going to be idle for more than a month, make sure everything is properly cleaned and packed for storage.  Exposed metal parts should be lightly coated with oil or some other rust/corrosion preventative solution.  Water should be emptied from all containers.   Perishable foods and medicines should be removed.  Clothing and kitchen items should be stored in sealed plastic containers to prevent contamination from dust, insects, or vermin.  You have more latitude if you're going to be using your stuff again soon, but you should still make sure it is clean and dry before putting it into storage.   Spilled foodstuffs in RVs and on other camping equipment attract all kinds of bugs and vermin in storage.  If you're lucky, you only have extra cleaning to do, but if you're not so lucky you may suffer permanent damage to your stuff.

For many years our primary camping has centered around dirt biking.  We got out about once a month in our motorhome, so we didn't do much tent camping.   When we did decide to go tent camping, it was often quite an ordeal finding, cleaning, inspecting, and fixing everything we needed. We set up both tents in the back yard to make sure everything was there and that we still remembered how to put them together.  Good thing we did.  One of the tents was missing all its pegs and had a broken metal loop on one of the main poles.   Both were easily solved before the trip but heading out without taking care of these issues would have made for some very unpleasant problems when we got to camp.  Even kitchen items stored in plastic tubs were dusty and needed to be washed.  Since our tent camping gear hadn't been used in quite a while, it took several hours of going through where it was all stored to locate all the things we wanted to bring along.   It had been put into "long term storage" when we unpacked from our last move and we hadn't had a chance to organize it for convenient access.  Over the years we've accumulated various camping equipment, not all of which is needed for any particular type of outing.  Finding exactly what we needed for this particular trip among the mountain of stuff was tedious and challenging.  We are now in the process of reorganizing the storage so it is more logical and we'll be able to get basic components more easily.

Keep it handy!

RV, OHV, and CampingTools

The right tools make any job easier, almost fun, while not having the right tools can make even the simplest jobs frustrating, tedious, time consuming, and even dangerous. A real pain in the neck, or about 2' lower!  Guys like me love tools. My wife insists I already have way too many, but that doesn't stop me from wanting more.   Since she doesn't use them as often as I do she doesn't understand the subtle differences between different kinds of tools etc.  There is always some new tool that looks cool and makes some task easier.  Most people would expect that a simple wrench set would be sufficient for most tasks and in many cases they'd be rigth.  But specialty sets, like "stubby" or long handles wrenches each have their uses.  Stubby wrenches allow you to get into small places standard wrenches won't fit and long handled wrenches not only extend your reach, but give you extra leverage that can be helpful when removing stuck or rusted fasteners.  To a tool novice they may not seem much different, but to a true user the differences are significant.  Likewise, there are several types of pliers, each suited to different uses.  True, you can often get by with just some basic wrenches and pliers, but, as I said at the beginning, having the right tool for the job is important!

RV mechanical tools are needed to perform routine maintenance and emergency repairs on your RV while in camp or on the road. What tools do you need? That will depend partially on what kind of RV you have and how much skill and experience you have. I strongly recommend all RVers and campers to carry a basic tool kit and acquire fundamental mechanical training. RVs and tow vehicles may require SAE and/or metric hand tools so check to see which you have and make sure you're carrying the right tools to fit your vehicle. Some even have both kinds of fasteners.  A lot of the screws used in RVs may be torx head (star) or clutch head (square) instead of standard flat or Philips heads.  You will want to see what your RV has and make sure you have appropriate drivers to keep all the screws tight.  A couple of flat and Philips screw  drivers may be woefully inadquate!

OHVs often require some specialized tools in addition to a set of the right kind (SAE or metric) hand tools. Most dirt bikes and ATVs require metric tools. Check your owner's manual to see what you need. You don't need all the expensive specialty tools recommended in the shop manual for mechanics but if, for example, it takes a special tool to change a spark plug like does on our Honda dirt bikes, you should have one of those on hand.  It is virtually impossible without one.   I also like to have a pair of wire twisting pliers for installing wire to secure hand grips on my dirt bikes.  I've seen guys do it -- or try to do it -- with ordinary pliers, but the results were less than perfect.  In fact, they were less than satisfactory.

Here are my recommendations for a basic tool box. Make sure you include both SAE and metric tools depending on the fasteners on your RV and/or OHVs. Metrinch brand tools are designed to fit both SAE and Metric fasteners using a minimum number of tools. They may seem a little pricey until you compare buying both SAE and Metric sets in place of them. Good quality tools, like Craftsman, will provide many years of service and are not likely to fail. If your budget is limited, watch for Craftsman sales at Sears and K-mart or look for other quality brands like Husky at auto supply stores, hardware stores, and home centers. Harbor Freight has reasonable prices on hand tools and they offer a lifetime guarantee, so if you do break one they will replace it at no charge. I have had a few occasions to exercise their lifetime warranty, and they made good, with no hassle whatsoever. Remember, your wrenches and sockets may need to be SAE, metric, or both.

    * Combination wrench set
    * Socket set (1/2", 3/8", and 1/4 " drive)
    * Pliers (various styles)
    * Screwdrivers
    * Adjustable ("Crescent") wrenches
    * Hammer
    * Electrician's terminal pliers

Combination wrenches have an open end at one end and a six or twelve point box at the other. The box usually has 12 point configuration to fit hex nuts and allow many ways it can be positioned. Six point versions are less versatile, but may hold better. Other types of wrenches may be open end on both ends or boxes on both ends. Combination wrenches are usually more versatile and adequate for most emergency RV and OHV repairs. Some specialized versions include offset box wrenches, "stubby" wrench sets (handy for getting into tight spaces), and extra-long wrenches, which give you more torque with less effort.   Some variations to consider include "Gearwinder" style wrenches whose box end ratchets and "Crossforce" wrenches, whose handles are twisted 90° from the ends so you have a flat surface instead of a narrow one on which to put the force.  Both of these variations can make a task faster and easier than standard wrenches.

Socket sets are typically found in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives. The larger 3/4" drive sets are usually only needed on heavy equipment and would be very heavy to carry around in your RV. Smaller sizes (1/4" and 3/8" drive) are used on small fasteners and in tight spaces. Larger size (usually 1/2" drive) are needed for large nuts and bolts that may be tight or rusted. Standard depth sockets work on bolts and on nuts where the bolt doesn't extend past the nut more than about the thickness of the nut. Deep sockets are needed to handle nuts on bolts that stick out way past the nut when it is tight. You may or may not need deep sockets in your RV/camp tool kit. You may have to figure out if you do on an as needed basis. To save weight and space, don't bother with deep sockets to start with. You can always add them later if you need them. To have a fairly complete tool set that can handle most situations, include deep sockets -- if you're not tight on space or weight capacity.  When you purchase sockets you may have a choice of six or twelve point sockets. Six point sockets are less likely to strip since they have large areas to contact the fastener but twelve point sockets (and wrenches) allow greater flexibility in positioning the tool. In many cases it won't matter which type you use. Only experience will tell you whether you need six or twelve point tools for a particular application. Here again, if space and weight aren't a major concern, having both gives you the most flexibility.  Another type of socket that sometimes comes in handy are u-joint or flexible sockets that allow you to access fasteners from an angle.  You can also get "wobble" extensions that give you some flexibility.  You will probably want to have short, medium and long extensions for all three socket sizes.  A breaker bar for each size may also be useful.  It allows you to get more leverage on rusted or extra tight fasteners than you can usually get with a ratchet.

Various style of pliers will come in handy.  As a minimum you'll want a good pair of 6" standard pliers.  I also like to carry a pair of 8" plies for bigger jobs.  Slip joint pliers like Channelocks are always handy for many tasks, even is lid lifters for  your Dutch oven.  Their adjustable jaw width makes them very versatile.

Power tools, like air or electric impact wrenches are a good addition to your garage at home but are probably overkill for taking on the road.  I have found that some jobs, like repairing the clutch on a dirt bike, are almost impossible with an impact wrench, but for the most part they're too big, heavy, and expensive for the average camper.  I was really pleased when I was able to pick up a cordless impact wrench on a coupon sale at Harbor Freight for my dirt bike trailer.  Another cordless tool you might find worth investing in is a drill/driver, along with a variety of screw driver and nut driver bits.

A single tool kit can satisfy both your RV and OHV mechanical needs if you make sure you have the right format (SAE and/or metric). I like to have separate tool kits in my motorhome and in my motorcycle trailer. That way, if I tow the trailer with another vehicle I have all the tools I need for my dirt bikes without having to transfer anything -- and everything is organized for convenient use. I do carry deep sockets in my motorcycle trailer, but my choices tend to lean somewhat on the overkill end of the scale.  I have found that "T" handle sockets and allen wrenches are really handy for working on my dirt bikes.  

The above basic tool recommendations can also serve as a guideline for your vehicle tool kit when tent camping since you could find yourself in a remote location and need to make emergency repairs to your car or truck to get home.

Camping tools you need are pretty much the same whether you're tent or RV camping. Here is a list of basic camping tools I suggest you consider:

    * Axe or hatchet
    * Splitting wedge
    * Pliers or multi-tool
    * Bow saw
    * Shovel
    * Knife
    * Hammer or mallet
    * Bucket or collapsible water carrier
    * Lighters
    * Gas or battery lanterns

Some really popular optional items I recommend that will improve convenience and enjoyment of your outings but might be considered equipment or gear rather than tools include:

    * Camp chairs
    * Dining fly or canopy
    * Folding camp table
    * Portable sink
    * Flashlights for each camper
    * A collapsible spring rake for clearing debris under your tent or awning mat

Over time you will identify additional tools you may want to add to your basic tool kit. If your RV uses square drive screws, carry square driver tools. If it has torx head clutch head or allen head fasteners, include the matching tools. Allen head fasteners are frequently used on OHVs so you may need a set of allen wrenches. I like the T-handle style. They're easier to use and you can get a stronger twist on stubborn bolts. If you have a lot of hex head screws, a set of nut drivers might make keeping them tight easier.  I've found that a set of -handle sockets make dirt bike repairs faster and easier. I also discovered that a pair of "fencing pliers" is helpful when camping. They double as hammer and nail/staple puller, pliers, and wire cutters. Another, rather unique tool I've found useful is something called "Meyer's Pliers". This is essentially a pair of Vice Grips married to a "C" clamp. You can attach the clamp to just about anything and use the Vice Grips to hold whatever you're working on. Always be on the look out for multiple-purpose tools. I have a pair of pliers that has a Phillips screw driver tip on the end of one handle, a flat screw driver tip on the end of the other handle, and a small hammer head welded to the outside of one of the jaws. It takes up little room in a tool box or pack and provides many useful functions. Another tool I've found useful for loosening stubborn fasteners without damaging them is a hand impact tool. These have square-drives to fit 3/8 or 1/2 inch sockets. You bang the end of the handle with a hammer to provide the "impact". A screw mechanism inside the tool transforms the impact into torque to loosen the fastener.

Multi-tools like the ubiquitous "Leatherman" are handy to have and often touted by campers and survivalists. Les Stroud, TV's "Survivorman", always carries a multi-tool on his adventures. They fit easily in a pack or pocket or can be carried in a belt pouch. The main tools include pliers and a knife, and usually have at least 1 flat and 1 phillips screwdriver blade. Other handy options may include a saw and a punch and sometimes a file.  Some even have scissors.

Knives are a staple of camping tools. An old adage says "A knifeless man is a lifeless man". Even a small pocket knife will be better than nothing, but having the right knife will make camping and survival tasks much easier. But what kind of knife is best? That is largely based on personal preference but the prevailing theme I've seen among survival experts favors a moderate sized (3 1/2 - 4") fixed blade knife like a hunting knife. No doubt you've seen the much advertised "Rambo" knives -- huge knives with a survival kit inside the handle. While they certainly have a certain level of macho appeal, most camping and survival tasks involve carving rather than heavy hacking.  You're usually better off with a smaller knife that gives you more finesse and better control.  A Swiss Army knife has lots of uses. Exercise caution when using any knife with a folding blade, even if it has a locking blade. Always keep your knives and other cutting tools sharp. Sharp tools are safer, more efficient, and easier to use than dull ones.  You're far more likely to injure yourself with a dull knife or axe than a sharp one and the wound will probably be more ragged, making it painful and slower to heal.

Regularly clean and inspect your tools. Repair or replace any that are damaged. Dirty or damaged tools can be dangerous to use and may ruin the parts you use them on. Checking them regularly also allows you to take inventory and put things back where they belong so you can find them when you need them and locate or replace anything that has been lost.

Make your tools are convenient to use. Store them in appropriate tool boxes or plastic tubs that are easy to access. I keep a small tool box with frequently used hand tools under one of the chairs in my RV. Larger, less often used tools, are relegated to a tool box in an outside compartment. When I can, I store outside tools like axes and shovels on the outside of my vehicle where they're easy to get to when it comes time to build the evening campfire or if I need them to dig a vehicle out of snow or sand.  No doubt you've seen Jeeps and other off road vehicles with axes and shovels fastened on the body.  Protect sharp edges on knives, axes, and saws to both prevent damage or dulling of the tool and avoid injuries when you reach for them and keep them from damaging the compartments in which they ride.

Kitchen tools are more appropriately addressed in discussions of organizing and stocking your galley, but you will want to apply many of the same principles of selection, organization, inspection, and maintenance to ensure you have what you need, it is in good repair, and you can find it when you need it.  Consider what you normally use in the kitchen at home.   Chances are you'll find them  useful in your RV or your camp cook kit too.  Because of space and weight consideration you might want to try to get by with smaller versions of some items, giving you more room for the ones you really do use most often.  For example, I found wheel style pizza cutter for our motorhome that is about half the size of the one we normally use at home.  Interestingly enough I bought it on sale at Dollar Tree and believe it or not it cost only a penny!

Tool up!