First of all, what do I mean by "base camp"? I'm sure you've seen mountain climber movies where they have a "base camp". But if you're not scaling K2, why do YOU need a base camp? A base camp is your primary base of operations for any camping activity. From there you may go forth for fishing, hunting, boating, hiking, OHV riding, horseback activities, or sight seeing. Your primary vehicle (car, truck, or RV) is usually near or even part of your base camp.
When you are group camping in an RV, your base camp is the primary campground from which you and your associates launch various activities. Your base camp may be a group site or collection of individual sites in a developed campground or a chosen part of the designated open camping areas in primitive locations. Either way, the site needs to be large enough to contain all of the vehicles and accommodations for the group. Sometimes you may have to limit the size of the group when staying in group sites at developed campgrounds. You will also want to visit any remote sites ahead of time to be sure there will be sufficient room for everyone and that they will have suitable access. Your personal base camp if you're going solo is where ever you park your RV or set up your tent. Make sure you select a campground that is accessible for your vehicle. Just because you can get there in your Jeep doesn't mean it is good for motorhomes and trailers. Consider whether the access route will accommodate the vehicles you expect in the group. Inspect ground clearance, road width, sharp turns, obstacles in the road, bridge limits, and overhead clearances. You should choose a location for your base camp that allows easy vehicle access and is near activities you want to enjoy. You'll want a fairly level spot. T he top of a gentle rise is a good choice. DO NOT set up camp in a depression or a sand wash that could be flooded by sudden rain storms. When we set up a base camp for dirt biking in the Mojave desert, we choose a large, flat area close to passable access roads and within an hour or less off road riding time of appropriate trail systems and destinations for our OHVs. We used the old wagon train pattern and "circled the wagons" around a central community fire pit. To guide new members of our group, we put out "Desert Rat" signs on the highway and access roads near the location. I have a "Desert Rat" flag I fly on a flagpole mounted on the front of my dirt bike trailer to help identify our group and at night I put flashing strobes on the roof to guide after dark arrivals. You want to leave the right amount of space between your vehicle(s) and others in the circle of wagons. You'll all need room to unload and park your OHVs and you'll need to open awnings and slides (if your RV is so equipped). Leaving too much room wastes space and spreads the group out too far for convenient sharing. Parking too close to another vehicle limits access for both you and your neighbor and may put you too close for privacy. When using the wagon train model, be sure to leave sufficient space in the interior circle for a common fire pit, group activities, and safe walking between units. Until you get a feel for how much room is appropriate, watch others in the group or look at other groups and follow their example. Or park your vehicle and attempt to unload your equipment. If you don't have room to open the ramp door and unload your OHVs, you're obviously too close. You may need to adjust your spacing a few times before you get it right. For large groups you may have more than one row of campers. Those on the outside may not enjoy the same benefits as the "inner circle", but sometimes multiple rings are necessary. Sometimes you can mitigate the situation by parking support vehicles in the outer ring and reserve the inner ring for primary tent and RV space.
Tent base camps should follow most of the same basic guidelines as RV base camps. Choose a level site with good access in a location that is not subject to flooding if there is a sudden storm. Arrange your vehicles and tents in a circle around a community fire pit. It usually works best to have the tents as the inner ring of the circle, with the vehicles outside. Sometimes it works to have the vehicles and tents side by side, but that may not be the best use of real estate and you might force some members of your group outside the circle. Of course, if that begins to happen, you can always have some folks move their vehicles behind their tents to make room for others to join the circle. Having the vehicles beside the tents can make access to provisions in your vehicles more convenient, but usually getting everyone's tent in the inside circle takes priority. Give special consideration as needed to campers using truck and SUV tents so they're able to be an active part of that "inner circle". Sometimes you may need to accommodate truck and SUV tents and you may want to use vehicles as wind breaks to minimize wind impact on tents.
Community services. Base camps function well to coordinate shared community services. A central community fire pit lends itself to active and enjoyable social gatherings. A shared fire usually means you don't have to bring along enough firewood yourself for all the nights you'll be there. Make sure you do bring your fair share. You may want to plan shared meals. Even a spontaneous potluck can be a lot of fun. Your base camp can serve as a resource center, lending mechanical and medical assistance to each other. I always have a large first aid kit in my dirt bike trailer and my motorhome or in my backpack when tent camping. My wife and I are both certified as Red Cross Professional Rescuers, with lots of first aid and CPR training. I also became certified in Advanced Wilderness Life Support. We always let our fellow campers know we are available in case of an emergency. I have splinted more than one broken bone and prepped the patients for transportation to the emergency room. My well-equipped dirt bike trailer attracts a lot of interest and has allowed me to assist many fellow campers with emergency repairs. Before we acquired the skills and equipment to be self-sufficient and to be able to help our fellow campers, we often enjoyed the hospitality of others in the group. In any given group you are likely to have people with a variety of skills and equipment that can be helpful to the whole group. It is good to share your background, skills, experience, and resources and encourage your fellow campers to do the same. Our Desert Rat group has included engineers (quite literally, rocket scientists), doctors, nurses, mechanics, and welders. A well organized base camp provides ready resources for almost any emergency. Sometimes it may be as simple as borrowing a cup of sugar. Other times you may need or provided life-saving assistance.
Individual base camps. If you're not camping with a group, you will still have your own personal base camp. In a developed campground, this will be your assigned site. In a primitive area, you will choose where you set up. Many of the basic criteria stated above for group camping applies to choosing a your individual site in a remote area. You want a spot that is fairly level, free from any flood danger, and also free from possible wind hazards. Camping under a nice shady tree is always appealing in warm weather, but consider whether the tree is laden with "widow makers", which are loose or dead limbs that might be blown down by the wind. Also, don't camp under or near a single tree or the tallest tree around if there is ANY chance of lightning! You never want be or to be near the highest thing around when there is lightning. You'll want to choose a location that is convenient to planned activities. If you're going to be fishing, try to get a spot near the fishing holes you plan to use. If you're hiking, you'll want to be close to the trail head to avoid too much walking before your hike even starts. For OHV activities, try to choose a spot more or less centrally located among the trail systems or destinations you plan for your rides. Make sure you know how to find your campsite when you leave it. In designated campgrounds, be sure to remember which loop you're on and your site number. In open camping areas, note permanent landmarks that will guide you -- or tag your vehicle with an easily recognizable flag that can be seen from a distance. You'd be surprised how similar different groups of RVs may appear out in the desert.
Setting up your base camp. As previously mentioned, it is a good pattern to set a group camp up around a central fire pit. Have everyone bring their wood and stack it near the fire. If you are in a developed campground, there will probably be a permanent fire pit for your use. In a primitive site, there may be one constructed by previous campers or you may have to build your own. You'll have some flexibility when setting up your personal base camp in primitive camping areas. Make sure you choose a location for your fire that is free from bushes and overhanging limbs that might catch fire. Try to place it downwind from your tent or RV. Follow all normal fire precautions, including clearing the ground of combustible materials for at least 5' all around your fire pit. If you're tent camping where there aren't any toilet facilities, you may have to create a latrine. You'll want that located downwind of any prevailing winds. It should be close enough to camp for convenience, but far enough away to provide privacy and keep odors away from camp. These days there are many types of portable toilets to add convenience to remote tent camping. They range from simple foldable stools to which you attach plastic bags to catch your waste to fancy "porta-pottys" that have self contained water supplies and holding tanks. Some are even battery operated. You will need to properly dispose of waste from all portable toilets. Do NOT just toss the used plastic bags into trash cans and NEVER burn them in your campfire (I promise you will not like the smell!). Dump porta-potty holding tanks into an RV dump station or carefully empty them into a flush toilet. If your porta-potty gets full and you won't be able to reach a proper dump facility, dig a hole deep enough to hold the contents and bury it. Take care that you do not build a latrine or dump waster anywhere it could contaminate water supplies (e.g. within 200' of lakes streams, lakes, springs, wells). Lacking any kind of portable toilet, dig a small hole in which to deposit your waste, then cover it up when you're done.
Well equipped based camps can greatly expand your options and comfort when tent camping. You can bring a long a generator to power entertainment equipment, appliances, and lighting. You can set up a larger tent where you can have stand up headroom and room to get your gear in out of the weather. You can set up a large canopy for group activities. You can use a portable hot water system and a shower enclosure for a really comfortable way to wash off a day's dust and sweat from strenuous activities. You can right size your campfires for each evenings' gatherings without running out of wood like you might out on your own.
Build on a solid base!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
Camp Bedding
The kind of bedding you need for camping depends on many factors. If you're camping in an RV you'll generally have more choices for comfort and familiarity than for tent camping. Ordinary sheets, blankets, quilts, and comforters are usually adequate in an RV and can give you home-like comfort and familiarity. If you are only staying in full hookup campgrounds you could even use electric blankets. There are a few 12-volt electric blankets if you really need one while boondocking -- and have a big enough battery bank to handle it. Sleeping bags can be used for convenience or added warmth in an RV. While you can use ordinary bedding when tent camping, it usually isn't very convenient, is easily soiled, and often isn't warm enough. Sleeping bags are the preferred option for tent camping. Loose bedding can result in parts of your body getting out from under the covers. At home or in an RV that is usually a minor irritation. Sleeping in a tent, it can spoil your whole night. Sleeping bags eliminate this problem. But some people get claustrophobic if they're confined. "Mummy" style (form fitting) sleeping bags are particularly confining
Sleeping bags are typically rated by temperature ranges. "Summer" bags are designed for temperatures above +35°F. So-called "3-season" bags (implying spring, summer, and fall) are rated for +10F to +35°F. Cold weather bags are for -10°F to +10°F. Winter/extreme bags are rated for below -10°F. The temperature rating is intended to indicate the lowest temperature at which the average sleeper will remain warm. If you're a "cold" sleeper you may need extra insulation. On the other hand, if you tend to kick the covers off at home, you may need a lighter bag or leave your bag unzipped. Keep in mind that wind will speed heat loss. The wind chill factor indicates how cold the air will feel on bare, exposed skin. The higher the wind speed, the colder it will feel. If you're snug in your sleeping bag you won't have exposed skin so wind chill isn't as noticeable, but wind will affect the ability of the bag to keep you warm since any breeze will continually bring cool air to absorb heat from the sleeping bag. It would be wise to consider expected wind chill factor when choosing the right sleeping bag. By the way, temperature ratings are not an exact science. They are usually specified based on having the bags tested by company employees and are very subjective.
In really cold weather you can double up sleeping bags for extra warmth. For one snow camping trip I unzipped a pair of old sleeping bags and put one on the floor of the tent underneath our sleeping bags and the second one spread out over both sleeping bags and we stayed very comfortable all night with temperatures down into the low 20's. Be careful piling extra heavy blankets or sleeping bags on top of your primary sleeping bag; it can compress the loft and you'll end up with a net result that leaves you cold. Of course you can just put one sleeping bag inside another if you find one isn't keeping you warm enough. Sometimes just adding a sleeping bag liner will do the job. Sharing a sleeping bag with another person is also a way to keep warmer. Zip two rectangular bags together (this won't work with "mummy" bags). With two bodies contributing the heat in one enclosed space, you'll both be warmer than you would be in individual bags.
Sleeping bag liners are separate items you can add to increase comfort, warmth, and to protect the sleeping bag. They can add 8° to 15F° protection. On warm nights you might use just the liner. Liners are an inexpensive and easy way to increase the warmth of your sleeping bag without the expense of upgrading to a heavier bag. They also give you flexibility to adjust the warmth much like dressing in layers in cold weather. Liners can be easily removed and washed, like sheets on your bed at home, saving the cost and inconvenience of having your sleeping bags dry cleaned.
Blankets and quilts are a readily available and inexpensive way to add warmth. Usually you can just lay them over your sleeping bag but if you need a lot more warmth you might wrap yourself up in one before crawling into your bag. In really cold winter weather I used two extra sleeping bags: one beneath us to insulate us from the snow-covered ground beneath the tent and one spread out over two campers. Covering two campers with one blanket, quilt, or sleeping bag helps share and conserve heat.
Sleeping pads do more than disguise those annoying pebbles and twigs beneath you. They provide insulation so you don't lose precious body heat to the cold ground. Consider them essential, not a luxury. Use them even when sleeping on cots to preserve body heat. Cold air circulating beneath the relatively thin fabric of the cot will suck the heat right out of you.
Electric blankets may be an option in RVs in cold weather. Of course you'll need an adequate source of power to operate them. No problem if you're camping where you have an electrical hook up or have an inverter and massive battery banks. Not so useful for boondocking because you shoudn't run the generator all night, but you could use them to pre-warm your bed. There are also 12-volt versions available, if you have a strong enough battery bank to power them.
Sleeping bag designs. Most sleeping bags employ a rectangular design. It provides the most room and two bags can usually be zipped together for couples who are used to sleeping together. Semi-rectangular bags are a bit more tapered, sometimes to the point of being nicknamed "mummy" bags. Sleeping bags may also be gender specific. Women's sleeping bags may be narrower in the shoulder, wider in the hips, and have extra insulation at the upper body and the foot. Bags may include a hood that can be gathered around the head in cold weather. Some have attached pillows or a pillow pocket to hold your clothes and serve as a pillow. If you're used to putting an arm under your pillow you'll want to use a separate pillow. Remember, the more comfortable and familiar you can make your bedding, the better you will rest.
Sheets are not usually used in sleeping bags, although a sleeping bag liner is kind of like a sheet and adds a little warmth and is easier to clean than the sleeping bag. The beds in an RV are often made up just like your bed at home, but due to unique sizes of the mattresses in some RVs you may need special sheets to get the right fit. Sheets should be washed regularly, just like at home, perhaps more often because of increased dust, dirt, and body moisture present during camping. It is a good idea to have several sets of sheets -- enough to last the whole trip unless you have access to laundry facilities in the campground or in your RV. In a pinch you could wash them out in a wash basin or sink and hang them out to dry.
Choosing a sleeping bag. Choose a bag designed for temperatures a bit colder than you expect to experience. If you're expecting near freezing temperatures, get a 20°F bag. If it turns out to be too warm you can always unzip it for additional ventilation to make you comfortable. If you get one that isn't warm enough, there won't be much you an do about it once you're in camp. As a precaution, always bring along a few extra blankets or quilts. Wool blankets are very warm and very durable. Synthetics are often light weight and fluffy and not as scratchy as wool, but in most cases they won't keep you as warm as wool will. Wool also has the unique property of retaining its insulation value when it gets wet. If you're using the blankets over your sleeping bag, it won't matter if they're scratchy and wool will keep you warmer. Surplus Army blankets are always good for this.
Pillows may be critical for getting a good night's sleep for some people. If you have room to bring along your favorite pillows or can duplicate them in your RV or camping supplies, you'll be more comfortable than making do with inferior pillows or stuffing your clothing in the pillow pouch of a sleeping bag. Because pillows can be rather bulky, many people opt for compact substitutes when tent camping or even in an RV. If that works for you, go for it. But if you can't get a good night's sleep or experience pain or discomfort or just can't get comfortable in bed due to the wrong pillow, making room for ones that work is a good use of space.
Storage. For travel, especially when hiking or backpacking, you want to compress your bag as much as possible. This is not a good thing to do for long term storage. It permanently compresses the insulation. I about froze in a 10°F sleeping bag in 32°F weather after it had been stored tightly packed for a season. The once-lofty fluff inside was all but gone! If you can, unroll your sleeping bags and hang them up between trips. This will allow them to dry thoroughly and to restore loft to the insulation. Sometimes running them through a "fluff" cycle in your clothes dryer will restore loft. If worse comes to worse, send your bag(s) to the dry cleaner for professional cleaning and restoration. Like parkas, some sleeping bags may indicate they can be machine washed, but personal experience has shown that to be less than satisfactory. Machine washing resulted in badly clumped insulation that made the item nearly useless.
Cots and mattresses. A folding camp cot can increase your sleeping comfort over sleeping on the ground in your tent. You'll still want a sleeping pad or mattress on the cot. Air mattresses are the easiest to transport and the pressure can be adjusted to just the firmness you want. RV mattresses are often thinner and offer less support than your home mattress. If you find this is the case you may want to upgrade your RV mattress. After all, about 1/3 of the time you spend in your RV will be in bed and you might as well be comfortable!
Another option is a "cowboy bedroll". Cowboys had to be able to carry everything they needed for months at a time on their saddles or in their saddle bags. A cowboy bedroll is a mostly waterproof bed made of heavy canvas and warm blankets. Start with a piece of canvas a few feet longer than you are tall and about 9' wide. When you put it together, you lay blankets or quilts on the canvas, then fold it over in thirds. That way you have double everything on top to keep you warm. The extra length is folded over your head to protect your face from rain or dew. A cowboy bedroll is simple and takes up little space. It can keep you dry at night, but doesn't provide the dressing room or protected storage a tent would. You may still want a foam sleeping pad under your cowboy bedroll for comfort and warmth.
Survival bedding is going to be harder to come by. If you find yourself in a survival situation you will want to make yourself as warm and comfortable a bed as you can. You probably won't have a sleeping bag with you in a surivival situation. Pine boughs or pine needles, leaves and grass an be used to build a makeshift mattress. Not only will it be softer than sleeping on the ground, it will help insulate you from cold and possible damp ground. Lacking any blankets to keep you warm, you may have to again use debris to cover your body. Of course if you have any dry coats, blankets, or upholstery from a stranded vehicle you can use that to cover you and help keep you warm. Even cardboard or newspapers will add insulation in an emergency. You might be surprised how much heat your body alone will generate -- if you can keep it from escaping. A good item to carry for emergencies when venturing into the wild is an "emergency sleeping bag" or "space blanket". They are made of aluminized mylar and are said to retain up to 80% of body heat. They fold up into a packet about the size of a handkerchief so they are very light weight and take up little room in pack or pocket. I keep one in the tool kit on my dirt bike in case I get stranded somewhere overnight or in bad weather.
Sleep tight!
Sleeping bags are typically rated by temperature ranges. "Summer" bags are designed for temperatures above +35°F. So-called "3-season" bags (implying spring, summer, and fall) are rated for +10F to +35°F. Cold weather bags are for -10°F to +10°F. Winter/extreme bags are rated for below -10°F. The temperature rating is intended to indicate the lowest temperature at which the average sleeper will remain warm. If you're a "cold" sleeper you may need extra insulation. On the other hand, if you tend to kick the covers off at home, you may need a lighter bag or leave your bag unzipped. Keep in mind that wind will speed heat loss. The wind chill factor indicates how cold the air will feel on bare, exposed skin. The higher the wind speed, the colder it will feel. If you're snug in your sleeping bag you won't have exposed skin so wind chill isn't as noticeable, but wind will affect the ability of the bag to keep you warm since any breeze will continually bring cool air to absorb heat from the sleeping bag. It would be wise to consider expected wind chill factor when choosing the right sleeping bag. By the way, temperature ratings are not an exact science. They are usually specified based on having the bags tested by company employees and are very subjective.
In really cold weather you can double up sleeping bags for extra warmth. For one snow camping trip I unzipped a pair of old sleeping bags and put one on the floor of the tent underneath our sleeping bags and the second one spread out over both sleeping bags and we stayed very comfortable all night with temperatures down into the low 20's. Be careful piling extra heavy blankets or sleeping bags on top of your primary sleeping bag; it can compress the loft and you'll end up with a net result that leaves you cold. Of course you can just put one sleeping bag inside another if you find one isn't keeping you warm enough. Sometimes just adding a sleeping bag liner will do the job. Sharing a sleeping bag with another person is also a way to keep warmer. Zip two rectangular bags together (this won't work with "mummy" bags). With two bodies contributing the heat in one enclosed space, you'll both be warmer than you would be in individual bags.
Sleeping bag liners are separate items you can add to increase comfort, warmth, and to protect the sleeping bag. They can add 8° to 15F° protection. On warm nights you might use just the liner. Liners are an inexpensive and easy way to increase the warmth of your sleeping bag without the expense of upgrading to a heavier bag. They also give you flexibility to adjust the warmth much like dressing in layers in cold weather. Liners can be easily removed and washed, like sheets on your bed at home, saving the cost and inconvenience of having your sleeping bags dry cleaned.
Blankets and quilts are a readily available and inexpensive way to add warmth. Usually you can just lay them over your sleeping bag but if you need a lot more warmth you might wrap yourself up in one before crawling into your bag. In really cold winter weather I used two extra sleeping bags: one beneath us to insulate us from the snow-covered ground beneath the tent and one spread out over two campers. Covering two campers with one blanket, quilt, or sleeping bag helps share and conserve heat.
Sleeping pads do more than disguise those annoying pebbles and twigs beneath you. They provide insulation so you don't lose precious body heat to the cold ground. Consider them essential, not a luxury. Use them even when sleeping on cots to preserve body heat. Cold air circulating beneath the relatively thin fabric of the cot will suck the heat right out of you.
Electric blankets may be an option in RVs in cold weather. Of course you'll need an adequate source of power to operate them. No problem if you're camping where you have an electrical hook up or have an inverter and massive battery banks. Not so useful for boondocking because you shoudn't run the generator all night, but you could use them to pre-warm your bed. There are also 12-volt versions available, if you have a strong enough battery bank to power them.
Sleeping bag designs. Most sleeping bags employ a rectangular design. It provides the most room and two bags can usually be zipped together for couples who are used to sleeping together. Semi-rectangular bags are a bit more tapered, sometimes to the point of being nicknamed "mummy" bags. Sleeping bags may also be gender specific. Women's sleeping bags may be narrower in the shoulder, wider in the hips, and have extra insulation at the upper body and the foot. Bags may include a hood that can be gathered around the head in cold weather. Some have attached pillows or a pillow pocket to hold your clothes and serve as a pillow. If you're used to putting an arm under your pillow you'll want to use a separate pillow. Remember, the more comfortable and familiar you can make your bedding, the better you will rest.
Sheets are not usually used in sleeping bags, although a sleeping bag liner is kind of like a sheet and adds a little warmth and is easier to clean than the sleeping bag. The beds in an RV are often made up just like your bed at home, but due to unique sizes of the mattresses in some RVs you may need special sheets to get the right fit. Sheets should be washed regularly, just like at home, perhaps more often because of increased dust, dirt, and body moisture present during camping. It is a good idea to have several sets of sheets -- enough to last the whole trip unless you have access to laundry facilities in the campground or in your RV. In a pinch you could wash them out in a wash basin or sink and hang them out to dry.
Choosing a sleeping bag. Choose a bag designed for temperatures a bit colder than you expect to experience. If you're expecting near freezing temperatures, get a 20°F bag. If it turns out to be too warm you can always unzip it for additional ventilation to make you comfortable. If you get one that isn't warm enough, there won't be much you an do about it once you're in camp. As a precaution, always bring along a few extra blankets or quilts. Wool blankets are very warm and very durable. Synthetics are often light weight and fluffy and not as scratchy as wool, but in most cases they won't keep you as warm as wool will. Wool also has the unique property of retaining its insulation value when it gets wet. If you're using the blankets over your sleeping bag, it won't matter if they're scratchy and wool will keep you warmer. Surplus Army blankets are always good for this.
Pillows may be critical for getting a good night's sleep for some people. If you have room to bring along your favorite pillows or can duplicate them in your RV or camping supplies, you'll be more comfortable than making do with inferior pillows or stuffing your clothing in the pillow pouch of a sleeping bag. Because pillows can be rather bulky, many people opt for compact substitutes when tent camping or even in an RV. If that works for you, go for it. But if you can't get a good night's sleep or experience pain or discomfort or just can't get comfortable in bed due to the wrong pillow, making room for ones that work is a good use of space.
Storage. For travel, especially when hiking or backpacking, you want to compress your bag as much as possible. This is not a good thing to do for long term storage. It permanently compresses the insulation. I about froze in a 10°F sleeping bag in 32°F weather after it had been stored tightly packed for a season. The once-lofty fluff inside was all but gone! If you can, unroll your sleeping bags and hang them up between trips. This will allow them to dry thoroughly and to restore loft to the insulation. Sometimes running them through a "fluff" cycle in your clothes dryer will restore loft. If worse comes to worse, send your bag(s) to the dry cleaner for professional cleaning and restoration. Like parkas, some sleeping bags may indicate they can be machine washed, but personal experience has shown that to be less than satisfactory. Machine washing resulted in badly clumped insulation that made the item nearly useless.
Cots and mattresses. A folding camp cot can increase your sleeping comfort over sleeping on the ground in your tent. You'll still want a sleeping pad or mattress on the cot. Air mattresses are the easiest to transport and the pressure can be adjusted to just the firmness you want. RV mattresses are often thinner and offer less support than your home mattress. If you find this is the case you may want to upgrade your RV mattress. After all, about 1/3 of the time you spend in your RV will be in bed and you might as well be comfortable!
Another option is a "cowboy bedroll". Cowboys had to be able to carry everything they needed for months at a time on their saddles or in their saddle bags. A cowboy bedroll is a mostly waterproof bed made of heavy canvas and warm blankets. Start with a piece of canvas a few feet longer than you are tall and about 9' wide. When you put it together, you lay blankets or quilts on the canvas, then fold it over in thirds. That way you have double everything on top to keep you warm. The extra length is folded over your head to protect your face from rain or dew. A cowboy bedroll is simple and takes up little space. It can keep you dry at night, but doesn't provide the dressing room or protected storage a tent would. You may still want a foam sleeping pad under your cowboy bedroll for comfort and warmth.
Survival bedding is going to be harder to come by. If you find yourself in a survival situation you will want to make yourself as warm and comfortable a bed as you can. You probably won't have a sleeping bag with you in a surivival situation. Pine boughs or pine needles, leaves and grass an be used to build a makeshift mattress. Not only will it be softer than sleeping on the ground, it will help insulate you from cold and possible damp ground. Lacking any blankets to keep you warm, you may have to again use debris to cover your body. Of course if you have any dry coats, blankets, or upholstery from a stranded vehicle you can use that to cover you and help keep you warm. Even cardboard or newspapers will add insulation in an emergency. You might be surprised how much heat your body alone will generate -- if you can keep it from escaping. A good item to carry for emergencies when venturing into the wild is an "emergency sleeping bag" or "space blanket". They are made of aluminized mylar and are said to retain up to 80% of body heat. They fold up into a packet about the size of a handkerchief so they are very light weight and take up little room in pack or pocket. I keep one in the tool kit on my dirt bike in case I get stranded somewhere overnight or in bad weather.
Sleep tight!
Monday, April 2, 2012
Types of Tents
There are many types of tents to choose from. What you choose will depend on price, weight, how many people you need to shelter, climate, and how and where you plan to use them. You can often get very good deals on used tents. People may purchase them and then not use them or may upgrade to an RV or switch to a different tent. Either way, you may get a bargain price if you shop around carefully. Sometimes their family outgrows a tent or as kids leave home they may choose to downsize. Check your local classified ads, garage sales, thrift stores, and web sites like ebay and craigslist. Don't fall for bargain prices without checking out the merchandise. Price alone doesn't ensure a good value. Getting a great deal on a spectacular 1-man dome tent may be a total waste of money if what you need is a family tent. Likewise, a low price on a big family tent may result in little use if you only need a 1 or 2 man dome for your needs. The big tent will just be a burden to transport and set up and may be too big for you to keep warm. Prices that are too low may indicate there are serious problems with the tent. It may be worth it if all it needs are some simple repairs and cleaning that you are willing and able to take care of. Minor tears or damaged stake loops are pretty easy to fix. Missing poles may be easy and not too expensive to replace, depending on the tent. Major damage, severe staining, foul odors, or lots of missing components should be avoided. There will be plenty of other (and better) opportunities. Those that are unsuitable for use may be a good source for parts IF they match what you already have AND have usable components you can use.
Single wall versus double wall tents. Simple tents are usually single wall tents. Double wall tents are those that have an external rain fly that covers the tent. These are usually dome tents and the rain fly sits on top of the framework an inch or so above the inner tent wall. Double wall tents may provide extra protection against rain, wind, and sunlight, and may help make it easier to control temperatures -- keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The extra layer of fabric absorbs sunlight instead of heating the air inside your tent in warm weather; the air gap between the tent and the rain fly acts much like the insulation in the walls of your home, helping retain whatever heat there is inside in cool weather. It also keeps the wind from drawing the heat directly out of the tent. Most rain flys end a few inches from the ground but some folks add skirts to extend them close to the ground to prevent drafts and block snow from blowing inside in winter weather.
One of the first things to consider when choosing a tent is the kind of climate in which it will be used. A good 4-season tent can, as the name implies, be used year round. They will usually be heavier -- and more expensive -- than summer tents. If you plan to do any winter camping, choose a 4-season tent. Look for one with a sturdy rain fly that comes down as close to the ground as possible. Some people sew on a skirt to extend the rain fly almost to the ground. This keeps snow from blowing up inside to the vents. If you're only planning to be camping in fairly warm weather, a lighter, 3-season tent will be easier to transport, set up, and take down. The added weight and cost of a 4-season tent will just be an unnecessary burden if you only use it in warmer weather.
Tent materials. For many years, tents have been made of canvas. Most heavy duty military tents are still made of canvas. Some large family cabin tents and even personal pup tents are also often made of canvas. It is waterproof and durable. But it is also heavy. The weight of canvas tents led to the introduction of tents made from lighter materials like rip-stop nylon. These lighter tents aren't as sturdy or durable but are usually more than adequate for family camping. In fact, nylon tents are even used by climbers of the highest peaks in the world in the most extreme conditions. Light weight tents are favored by many campers because they are easy to carry, easy to set up, and take up less room during transport and storage. Rip-stop fabrics are resistant to tears but are not rip proof. A special weave pattern helps keep tears from spreading. Light weight tent fabrics may be water proof or water resistant, depending on the chemical treatment they were given and the density of the weave. You may be able apply additional waterproofing from a spray can if your tent starts to leak. The brand I'm most familiar with is Camp Dry. It is a silicone waterproofing spray that can be used on tents, boots, jackets, backpacks etc. It is clear and provides protection against stains as well as adding waterproofing.
How big a tent do you need? The size you need will depend on how many people and how much gear it needs to house. Unless you are back packing where weight is a major consideration, I would buy a tent a little larger than I think I need. If you end up with more room than necessary, the only downside would be keeping it warm in cold weather. But if your portable domicile is too small, you'll be constantly fighting for space. A rule of thumb is to get a tent rated for about 1or 2 more persons than will be using it so you'll have room for equipment and maneuvering inside. I had a 3-man dome tent that was perfect for me and one son. A 6 person family tent is probably just about right for a family of 4. Tent sizes are usually determined by how many people they are designed to sleep so using tents rated for an extra person or two gives you extra storage and living space that is usually well worth the extra weight and extra cost unless you have to carry it long distances or up steep slopes.
Dome tents are very popular because they are light weight and usually pretty easy to set up. Some are even "pop-up" tents that are self-erecting. You just take them out of their bag and toss them into the air and poof! Instant tent! Dome tents are typically made of fairly light weight nylon or polyester material, supported by flexible fiberglass poles. Even large 4-6 man dome tents can often be erected by one person. Light weight and small size when packed make them attractive choices because they're easy to transport. About the only downside to dome tents is they are not quite as sturdy for use in adverse weather conditions and the fabric is more susceptible to wear and tear than heavier canvas tents. Dome tents are, however, often used by mountaineering expeditions in extreme weather because of their light weight and portability. Dome tents are available in a variety of sizes, from small 1-man pop-up tents to huge, multi-room family tents.
Cabin tents are a more traditional style, usually made of heavy canvas. They are very durable and usually quite roomy. The usually have vertical walls and pitched roofs (like a cabin, hence the name). Because of the weight and the somewhat bulky size when folded for storage or transportation, they are not as convenient for car camping or weekend outings as dome tents. I had a used 11x14 cabin tent I used as a Scoutmaster. I originally picked it up cheap to use as a portable garage on dirt bike outings so I wasn't too concerned about cosmetics. With a little TLC is was fully functional for personal use. My scouts nicknamed it "The Hotel". Compared to their pup and individual dome tents, it was huge. It was certainly convenient to have full head room and plenty of storage room on extended outings, but I could have never used it on any hikes, without a pack horse or OHV to carry it. Cabin tents often have center poles to support the high pitched roof. Some have external pole systems to avoid any obstructions inside the tent. Large cabin tents are good for families or large groups in extended camping in a fixed location. They are a good option for car camping and base camps. The size and weight makes them poor choices for hiking or frequent changes in location. I would not choose a cabin tent to take on a cross country road trip.
Umbrella tents typically have a trapezoidal profile, with sloping walls. The "umbrella" description comes from the way the roof is supported. Some have a single center pole, others have poles at each corner. Size and weight are usually greater than a dome tent but sometimes less than that of cabin tents. The peaked umbrella roof usually gives pretty good stand up head room in the center but limited height nearer the sloped walls.
Truck and SUV tents are available to fit most pick up trucks and SUVs. Truck tents fit in the truck bed. SUV tents attach to the side or back of the SUV. Truck tents have the advantage of getting you up off the ground. SUV tents usually are designed to allow you to make use of the flat cargo space in the back of your SUV for a safe and comfortable sleeping area while providing stand up room adjacent to the vehicle for dressing and other activities.
SUV tents are designed to fit on the back or side of popular SUVs, giving you the option of sleeping in the back of your SUV, yet have stand up dressing room. They usually attach to the roof rack. Another benefit of SUV tents is that they usually are more stable than stand alone tents since they are anchored to the vehicle.
Truck tents fit in the bed of pickup. They get you up off the ground on a level sleeping surface (if you've parked on the level). The bed of the truck provides some additional protection against wind and rain. Truck tents are usually designed so that the rain fly fits over the side of the bed so rain runs off onto the ground instead of under the tent. They use the same type of free-standing poles as dome tents and you might be able to adapt a dome tent of the right size to work in the back of a truck, but for better fit, get a truck tent that fits the size of your pickup bed.
Roof tents are a unique kind of vehicle tent that mount on the roof or more commonly, the roof rack, of a vehicle. They have the advantage of getting you up off the ground are so are especially good choices if you are camping where there are lots of bugs or other critters that might wriggle into your tent. Its kind of like having your own private penthouse when camping!
Personal tents. Personal tents may range from small backpacker tents that are little more than a sleeping bag cover to heavy canvas tents. The U.S. Army typically issued a "shelter half" to each soldier. The expectation was that two soldiers would combine their shelter halves to make one shared tent that would protect the two of them and their equipment. Small, one-man "pup tents" are often used by boy scouts and other hikers who need individual shelter. They typically are about 3' high and 3-4' wide. They have a pole in the center at each end and are secured with stakes at each of the 4 corners and ropes from the top of each pole to the ground. A pup tent is usually only adequate for a single person, but there are larger 2-man versions. By the way, a 2-man pup tent does not come with 2 men or a pup. In order to have enough space for gear, consider getting a tent that is rated for at least one more person than the number of people that will be using it. I had a 3-man dome tent that worked very well for myself and one son and our gear for scout outings. We found it a little too cozy when we squeezed 2 people into a 2-man tent. Tube tents are an inexpensive variation of a pup tent. They are often made of plastic. They are typically supported by a rope along the top and secured with tent pegs at each corner. Because they are cheap and light weight, they are frequently used by boy scouts and other novice campers. The plastic is fully waterproof unless it gets torn, but it is even more susceptible to tears and campfire embers than a nylon or polyester tent.
What is the best tent? The best tent will be the one that is right for you and your immediate needs. If you need an inexpensive tent for one person for a weekend, a cheap tube tent should be sufficient. If you need shelter for a family of 4-6 people, you're going to need a large family tent, probably one with multiple rooms. If you're going to be hiking or moving around often, focus on tents that are light weight and compact when transporting and easy to set up and take down. Cabin tents are good choices for base camps and extended stays in a single location. If you you are getting a tent to serve as an emergency shelter for a disaster consider something that will be very durable and larger than you think you need. You might find it more convenient and perhaps less expensive to purchase multiple smaller tents for a family instead of buying a big family tent.
Manufacturers keep improving their offerings. I recently saw some beautiful tents that look almost like a Swiss chalet. They're designed to sleep up to 10 people. Another cool innovation are front porch tents, that essentially have a large screen room on the front of the tent. Some tents have vestibules that serve as closets to store clothes and gear. A tent with a vestibule around the entrance would be useful in cold weather to protect the entrance and avoid unnecessary heat loss when opening the inner door. The overall trend is toward larger, lighter, stronger, more attractive tents.
Special considerations. If you have back problems or any other disability that might make sleeping on the ground difficult or impossible, you'll need a tent with sufficient height to accommodate sleeping on cots. If anyone in your group has allergies, take care to select a tent that doesn't aggravate them. Because of unknown contaminations that might occur in used tents you might want to seek a new tent to minimze allergic reactions. Alternatively, you might have a used tent professionally cleaned before using it. As a precaution, any used items should be carefully vacuumed and wiped down with a mild disinfectant. You might also want to refresh or supplement the waterproofing with a good spray waterproofing, available at most camping stores, especially after washing or cleaning the fabric.
Adverse weather conditions will make staying in just about any tent somewhat uncomfortable. You can minimize the discomfort by choosing a tent that is designed for the type of weather you're going to be using it in. Heavy canvas tents will offer more protection from wind, rain, and snow, than their lighter counterparts. However, light weight dome tents are often used in extreme weather conditions, such as found in mountain climbing. It is surprising how much protection even a thin nylon tent will provide. Heavy canvas tents can often be fitted with stovepipe adapters to allow the use of wood, oil and gas stoves or other tent heaters. For dome tents, propane or white gas powered catalytic heaters can be used to provide some warmth. You will need to provide adequate ventilation whenever using any kind of stove or heater or gas powered lantern in a tent. Some will give off toxic fumes. Even catalytic heaters that don't give off toxic fumes will consume oxygen so you need adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate.
Rain flys. Many tents, especially dome tents, are equipped with rain flys. Theses are an extra piece of fabric usually not sewn to the tent, that covers the tent. It allows rain to run off without coming in contact with the internal tent itself, keeping it dryer inside -- and cooler in warm weather and warmer in cool weather. The sleeves for the poles on dome tents are often over the outside of the tent, extending a few inches above the tent fabric. This keeps the fly from coming in direct contact with the tent itself so water doesn't wick through to the inside of the tent. The air space between the tent and the rain fly may also provide some insulation to better maintain desired temperatures inside the tent. In winter it can help keep it warmer, in summer, it helps shade the tent from direct sunlight to reduce heat build up. The extra layer can also mitigate unwanted light from disturbing your slumber. In extreme weather conditions you may want to rig you own rain fly using an ordinary tarp over a tent that doesn't come with one. Try to avoid having the tarp in direct contact with the tent itself. Anywhere the tarp or rain fly contacts the tent may cause moisture to wick through to the interior. Any additional protection will extend the life of your tent and improve your control over the interior environment. If you have a single wall tent you may be able to improvise a rain fly using a polytarp. Try to rig it so it isn't in direct contact with the walls or ceiling of the tent itself.
Roof top tents are another variation of vehicle tents. As the name implies, a roof top tent fits on the roof of a vehicle, usually an SUV with a larger flat roof. Sometimes they have extensions with hard floors that reach out over the front, rear or side of the vehicle. Panels can be added to enclose the space under the extension for additional closed living space. Roof top tents can include insulation that makes them warmer than regular tents and thus they become truly four season tents. One review I saw showed several SUVs with roof top tents parked in the snow. Being up off the ground is appealing to a lot of people. It keeps you off cold ground and away from insects, snakes, and varmints. When stored they only add a few inches to the height of the vehicle. When erected they provide a comfortable living space that doesn't require its own footprint on the ground. You usually need a ladder to get in and out of them. They are not cheap. Plan on spending $200 - $3500. But they do have their advantages. You don't have a trailer to tow but you do have comfortable, weather proof sleeping quarters. They are usually self-erecting, using cranks and/or gas struts so set up is pretty fast and easy. See AutoHome Roof Top Tents for some examples.
Car tents are not new. They have been around since the early days of the automobile. Some early models were designed to travel on the running boards and made use of running boards as part of the support system for off-the-ground beds. Here is an example: Shilling's Auto Camp. Like modern SUV tents they attached to the roof of the car. Often people would attach tents to both sides of the car, creating a two-bedroom car/tent arrangement. Something called a Tentobed offered in-car sleeping.
Large military tents may be suitable for big groups camping in a fixed location for an extended period of time. The size, weight, cost, and difficulty of transporting and erecting these huge tents severely limits their potential for individual or family use. They are usually designed to be transported in big trucks and set up by a platoon. Some smaller military tents may be adaptable for family base camps, but they're still usually heavier and bulkier than their commercial counterparts
Tipis have an appeal to anyone with a feeling for the Old West and/or Native American culture. There are a few commercial versions available, but I've found them pretty costly. You might make your own. There are plenty of plans or instructions on the Internet for doing so. You'll need a lot of long poles and a covering cut and sewn to the right shape. In their original use, tipis were more or less permanent homes for the nomadic tribes in the western United States. The high central peak could be opened to allow smoke from a campfire inside to escape. Tipis are about the only tent that accommodates a fire inside. American Indians transported their tee pees by dragging the poles behind their horses (or slaves). In some cases, they only transported the covering and simply cut new poles when they arrived at their destination. You'll need to consider whether the poles will fit in or on your truck or trailer. The very high peak, steep walls, and opening at the top make having a fire inside more practical than it would be in a shallow tent.
Emergency makeshift tents can be made from tarps or even ponchos or plastic garbage bags. You'll need some way to support and anchor the tent. Support may come from poles or from a rope, cable. or stick between two trees or other uprights over which the tarp can be hung. Lower edges will need to be staked down or secured to stakes or other anchors using ropes or bungee cords or heavy objects. You will get the best level of protection if the sides go all the way to the ground, but sometimes a canopy to keep off rain or snow may be all that is needed.
Setting up your tent is at least as important as choosing the right tent to start with. Choose a spot that is fairly level, preferable a little higher than surrounding ground so rain water and runoff won't puddle beneath the tent. Take advantage of any available natural or man-made wind breaks if you can. Use a good ground cloth. I like to use one under and inside the tent to protect the floor from ground debris and moisture and from wear and tear from walking inside. Be sure to erect the tent according to them manufacturer's instruction, with proper poles and stakes. Don't over-tighten ropes or extendable poles. You need the tent to be taut but not stressed. Sometimes it is a good idea to dig a trench around the base of the tent to capture runoff and carry it away so it doesn't run under the tent but it isn't practical in all circumstances. You won't want to dig a trench if you're set up on lawn or if the ground is rocky, really hard, or frozen. To make your first outing in a new tent easier, try setting up at home a time or two before you take it out. Some tents come from the factory with color-coded poles. If yours didn't you might find it helpful to number or otherwise mark the connecting parts of the poles or framework to make setup in camp easier. Colored plastic tape, permanent markers, or a touch of paint to identify matching ends of poles can save a lot of time.
Pitch in!
Single wall versus double wall tents. Simple tents are usually single wall tents. Double wall tents are those that have an external rain fly that covers the tent. These are usually dome tents and the rain fly sits on top of the framework an inch or so above the inner tent wall. Double wall tents may provide extra protection against rain, wind, and sunlight, and may help make it easier to control temperatures -- keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The extra layer of fabric absorbs sunlight instead of heating the air inside your tent in warm weather; the air gap between the tent and the rain fly acts much like the insulation in the walls of your home, helping retain whatever heat there is inside in cool weather. It also keeps the wind from drawing the heat directly out of the tent. Most rain flys end a few inches from the ground but some folks add skirts to extend them close to the ground to prevent drafts and block snow from blowing inside in winter weather.
One of the first things to consider when choosing a tent is the kind of climate in which it will be used. A good 4-season tent can, as the name implies, be used year round. They will usually be heavier -- and more expensive -- than summer tents. If you plan to do any winter camping, choose a 4-season tent. Look for one with a sturdy rain fly that comes down as close to the ground as possible. Some people sew on a skirt to extend the rain fly almost to the ground. This keeps snow from blowing up inside to the vents. If you're only planning to be camping in fairly warm weather, a lighter, 3-season tent will be easier to transport, set up, and take down. The added weight and cost of a 4-season tent will just be an unnecessary burden if you only use it in warmer weather.
Tent materials. For many years, tents have been made of canvas. Most heavy duty military tents are still made of canvas. Some large family cabin tents and even personal pup tents are also often made of canvas. It is waterproof and durable. But it is also heavy. The weight of canvas tents led to the introduction of tents made from lighter materials like rip-stop nylon. These lighter tents aren't as sturdy or durable but are usually more than adequate for family camping. In fact, nylon tents are even used by climbers of the highest peaks in the world in the most extreme conditions. Light weight tents are favored by many campers because they are easy to carry, easy to set up, and take up less room during transport and storage. Rip-stop fabrics are resistant to tears but are not rip proof. A special weave pattern helps keep tears from spreading. Light weight tent fabrics may be water proof or water resistant, depending on the chemical treatment they were given and the density of the weave. You may be able apply additional waterproofing from a spray can if your tent starts to leak. The brand I'm most familiar with is Camp Dry. It is a silicone waterproofing spray that can be used on tents, boots, jackets, backpacks etc. It is clear and provides protection against stains as well as adding waterproofing.
How big a tent do you need? The size you need will depend on how many people and how much gear it needs to house. Unless you are back packing where weight is a major consideration, I would buy a tent a little larger than I think I need. If you end up with more room than necessary, the only downside would be keeping it warm in cold weather. But if your portable domicile is too small, you'll be constantly fighting for space. A rule of thumb is to get a tent rated for about 1or 2 more persons than will be using it so you'll have room for equipment and maneuvering inside. I had a 3-man dome tent that was perfect for me and one son. A 6 person family tent is probably just about right for a family of 4. Tent sizes are usually determined by how many people they are designed to sleep so using tents rated for an extra person or two gives you extra storage and living space that is usually well worth the extra weight and extra cost unless you have to carry it long distances or up steep slopes.
Dome tents are very popular because they are light weight and usually pretty easy to set up. Some are even "pop-up" tents that are self-erecting. You just take them out of their bag and toss them into the air and poof! Instant tent! Dome tents are typically made of fairly light weight nylon or polyester material, supported by flexible fiberglass poles. Even large 4-6 man dome tents can often be erected by one person. Light weight and small size when packed make them attractive choices because they're easy to transport. About the only downside to dome tents is they are not quite as sturdy for use in adverse weather conditions and the fabric is more susceptible to wear and tear than heavier canvas tents. Dome tents are, however, often used by mountaineering expeditions in extreme weather because of their light weight and portability. Dome tents are available in a variety of sizes, from small 1-man pop-up tents to huge, multi-room family tents.
Cabin tents are a more traditional style, usually made of heavy canvas. They are very durable and usually quite roomy. The usually have vertical walls and pitched roofs (like a cabin, hence the name). Because of the weight and the somewhat bulky size when folded for storage or transportation, they are not as convenient for car camping or weekend outings as dome tents. I had a used 11x14 cabin tent I used as a Scoutmaster. I originally picked it up cheap to use as a portable garage on dirt bike outings so I wasn't too concerned about cosmetics. With a little TLC is was fully functional for personal use. My scouts nicknamed it "The Hotel". Compared to their pup and individual dome tents, it was huge. It was certainly convenient to have full head room and plenty of storage room on extended outings, but I could have never used it on any hikes, without a pack horse or OHV to carry it. Cabin tents often have center poles to support the high pitched roof. Some have external pole systems to avoid any obstructions inside the tent. Large cabin tents are good for families or large groups in extended camping in a fixed location. They are a good option for car camping and base camps. The size and weight makes them poor choices for hiking or frequent changes in location. I would not choose a cabin tent to take on a cross country road trip.
Umbrella tents typically have a trapezoidal profile, with sloping walls. The "umbrella" description comes from the way the roof is supported. Some have a single center pole, others have poles at each corner. Size and weight are usually greater than a dome tent but sometimes less than that of cabin tents. The peaked umbrella roof usually gives pretty good stand up head room in the center but limited height nearer the sloped walls.
Truck and SUV tents are available to fit most pick up trucks and SUVs. Truck tents fit in the truck bed. SUV tents attach to the side or back of the SUV. Truck tents have the advantage of getting you up off the ground. SUV tents usually are designed to allow you to make use of the flat cargo space in the back of your SUV for a safe and comfortable sleeping area while providing stand up room adjacent to the vehicle for dressing and other activities.
SUV tents are designed to fit on the back or side of popular SUVs, giving you the option of sleeping in the back of your SUV, yet have stand up dressing room. They usually attach to the roof rack. Another benefit of SUV tents is that they usually are more stable than stand alone tents since they are anchored to the vehicle.
Truck tents fit in the bed of pickup. They get you up off the ground on a level sleeping surface (if you've parked on the level). The bed of the truck provides some additional protection against wind and rain. Truck tents are usually designed so that the rain fly fits over the side of the bed so rain runs off onto the ground instead of under the tent. They use the same type of free-standing poles as dome tents and you might be able to adapt a dome tent of the right size to work in the back of a truck, but for better fit, get a truck tent that fits the size of your pickup bed.
Roof tents are a unique kind of vehicle tent that mount on the roof or more commonly, the roof rack, of a vehicle. They have the advantage of getting you up off the ground are so are especially good choices if you are camping where there are lots of bugs or other critters that might wriggle into your tent. Its kind of like having your own private penthouse when camping!
Personal tents. Personal tents may range from small backpacker tents that are little more than a sleeping bag cover to heavy canvas tents. The U.S. Army typically issued a "shelter half" to each soldier. The expectation was that two soldiers would combine their shelter halves to make one shared tent that would protect the two of them and their equipment. Small, one-man "pup tents" are often used by boy scouts and other hikers who need individual shelter. They typically are about 3' high and 3-4' wide. They have a pole in the center at each end and are secured with stakes at each of the 4 corners and ropes from the top of each pole to the ground. A pup tent is usually only adequate for a single person, but there are larger 2-man versions. By the way, a 2-man pup tent does not come with 2 men or a pup. In order to have enough space for gear, consider getting a tent that is rated for at least one more person than the number of people that will be using it. I had a 3-man dome tent that worked very well for myself and one son and our gear for scout outings. We found it a little too cozy when we squeezed 2 people into a 2-man tent. Tube tents are an inexpensive variation of a pup tent. They are often made of plastic. They are typically supported by a rope along the top and secured with tent pegs at each corner. Because they are cheap and light weight, they are frequently used by boy scouts and other novice campers. The plastic is fully waterproof unless it gets torn, but it is even more susceptible to tears and campfire embers than a nylon or polyester tent.
What is the best tent? The best tent will be the one that is right for you and your immediate needs. If you need an inexpensive tent for one person for a weekend, a cheap tube tent should be sufficient. If you need shelter for a family of 4-6 people, you're going to need a large family tent, probably one with multiple rooms. If you're going to be hiking or moving around often, focus on tents that are light weight and compact when transporting and easy to set up and take down. Cabin tents are good choices for base camps and extended stays in a single location. If you you are getting a tent to serve as an emergency shelter for a disaster consider something that will be very durable and larger than you think you need. You might find it more convenient and perhaps less expensive to purchase multiple smaller tents for a family instead of buying a big family tent.
Manufacturers keep improving their offerings. I recently saw some beautiful tents that look almost like a Swiss chalet. They're designed to sleep up to 10 people. Another cool innovation are front porch tents, that essentially have a large screen room on the front of the tent. Some tents have vestibules that serve as closets to store clothes and gear. A tent with a vestibule around the entrance would be useful in cold weather to protect the entrance and avoid unnecessary heat loss when opening the inner door. The overall trend is toward larger, lighter, stronger, more attractive tents.
Special considerations. If you have back problems or any other disability that might make sleeping on the ground difficult or impossible, you'll need a tent with sufficient height to accommodate sleeping on cots. If anyone in your group has allergies, take care to select a tent that doesn't aggravate them. Because of unknown contaminations that might occur in used tents you might want to seek a new tent to minimze allergic reactions. Alternatively, you might have a used tent professionally cleaned before using it. As a precaution, any used items should be carefully vacuumed and wiped down with a mild disinfectant. You might also want to refresh or supplement the waterproofing with a good spray waterproofing, available at most camping stores, especially after washing or cleaning the fabric.
Adverse weather conditions will make staying in just about any tent somewhat uncomfortable. You can minimize the discomfort by choosing a tent that is designed for the type of weather you're going to be using it in. Heavy canvas tents will offer more protection from wind, rain, and snow, than their lighter counterparts. However, light weight dome tents are often used in extreme weather conditions, such as found in mountain climbing. It is surprising how much protection even a thin nylon tent will provide. Heavy canvas tents can often be fitted with stovepipe adapters to allow the use of wood, oil and gas stoves or other tent heaters. For dome tents, propane or white gas powered catalytic heaters can be used to provide some warmth. You will need to provide adequate ventilation whenever using any kind of stove or heater or gas powered lantern in a tent. Some will give off toxic fumes. Even catalytic heaters that don't give off toxic fumes will consume oxygen so you need adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate.
Rain flys. Many tents, especially dome tents, are equipped with rain flys. Theses are an extra piece of fabric usually not sewn to the tent, that covers the tent. It allows rain to run off without coming in contact with the internal tent itself, keeping it dryer inside -- and cooler in warm weather and warmer in cool weather. The sleeves for the poles on dome tents are often over the outside of the tent, extending a few inches above the tent fabric. This keeps the fly from coming in direct contact with the tent itself so water doesn't wick through to the inside of the tent. The air space between the tent and the rain fly may also provide some insulation to better maintain desired temperatures inside the tent. In winter it can help keep it warmer, in summer, it helps shade the tent from direct sunlight to reduce heat build up. The extra layer can also mitigate unwanted light from disturbing your slumber. In extreme weather conditions you may want to rig you own rain fly using an ordinary tarp over a tent that doesn't come with one. Try to avoid having the tarp in direct contact with the tent itself. Anywhere the tarp or rain fly contacts the tent may cause moisture to wick through to the interior. Any additional protection will extend the life of your tent and improve your control over the interior environment. If you have a single wall tent you may be able to improvise a rain fly using a polytarp. Try to rig it so it isn't in direct contact with the walls or ceiling of the tent itself.
Roof top tents are another variation of vehicle tents. As the name implies, a roof top tent fits on the roof of a vehicle, usually an SUV with a larger flat roof. Sometimes they have extensions with hard floors that reach out over the front, rear or side of the vehicle. Panels can be added to enclose the space under the extension for additional closed living space. Roof top tents can include insulation that makes them warmer than regular tents and thus they become truly four season tents. One review I saw showed several SUVs with roof top tents parked in the snow. Being up off the ground is appealing to a lot of people. It keeps you off cold ground and away from insects, snakes, and varmints. When stored they only add a few inches to the height of the vehicle. When erected they provide a comfortable living space that doesn't require its own footprint on the ground. You usually need a ladder to get in and out of them. They are not cheap. Plan on spending $200 - $3500. But they do have their advantages. You don't have a trailer to tow but you do have comfortable, weather proof sleeping quarters. They are usually self-erecting, using cranks and/or gas struts so set up is pretty fast and easy. See AutoHome Roof Top Tents for some examples.
Car tents are not new. They have been around since the early days of the automobile. Some early models were designed to travel on the running boards and made use of running boards as part of the support system for off-the-ground beds. Here is an example: Shilling's Auto Camp. Like modern SUV tents they attached to the roof of the car. Often people would attach tents to both sides of the car, creating a two-bedroom car/tent arrangement. Something called a Tentobed offered in-car sleeping.
Large military tents may be suitable for big groups camping in a fixed location for an extended period of time. The size, weight, cost, and difficulty of transporting and erecting these huge tents severely limits their potential for individual or family use. They are usually designed to be transported in big trucks and set up by a platoon. Some smaller military tents may be adaptable for family base camps, but they're still usually heavier and bulkier than their commercial counterparts
Tipis have an appeal to anyone with a feeling for the Old West and/or Native American culture. There are a few commercial versions available, but I've found them pretty costly. You might make your own. There are plenty of plans or instructions on the Internet for doing so. You'll need a lot of long poles and a covering cut and sewn to the right shape. In their original use, tipis were more or less permanent homes for the nomadic tribes in the western United States. The high central peak could be opened to allow smoke from a campfire inside to escape. Tipis are about the only tent that accommodates a fire inside. American Indians transported their tee pees by dragging the poles behind their horses (or slaves). In some cases, they only transported the covering and simply cut new poles when they arrived at their destination. You'll need to consider whether the poles will fit in or on your truck or trailer. The very high peak, steep walls, and opening at the top make having a fire inside more practical than it would be in a shallow tent.
Emergency makeshift tents can be made from tarps or even ponchos or plastic garbage bags. You'll need some way to support and anchor the tent. Support may come from poles or from a rope, cable. or stick between two trees or other uprights over which the tarp can be hung. Lower edges will need to be staked down or secured to stakes or other anchors using ropes or bungee cords or heavy objects. You will get the best level of protection if the sides go all the way to the ground, but sometimes a canopy to keep off rain or snow may be all that is needed.
Setting up your tent is at least as important as choosing the right tent to start with. Choose a spot that is fairly level, preferable a little higher than surrounding ground so rain water and runoff won't puddle beneath the tent. Take advantage of any available natural or man-made wind breaks if you can. Use a good ground cloth. I like to use one under and inside the tent to protect the floor from ground debris and moisture and from wear and tear from walking inside. Be sure to erect the tent according to them manufacturer's instruction, with proper poles and stakes. Don't over-tighten ropes or extendable poles. You need the tent to be taut but not stressed. Sometimes it is a good idea to dig a trench around the base of the tent to capture runoff and carry it away so it doesn't run under the tent but it isn't practical in all circumstances. You won't want to dig a trench if you're set up on lawn or if the ground is rocky, really hard, or frozen. To make your first outing in a new tent easier, try setting up at home a time or two before you take it out. Some tents come from the factory with color-coded poles. If yours didn't you might find it helpful to number or otherwise mark the connecting parts of the poles or framework to make setup in camp easier. Colored plastic tape, permanent markers, or a touch of paint to identify matching ends of poles can save a lot of time.
Pitch in!
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Camp Menus
I should really have my wife writing this post. Much of what goes into this article comes directly from her thoughtful meal planning of our outings. Your camp menu will change depending on the type of camping you're doing. When you're in an RV or "car camping" in a tent, you can pretty much eat much like you would at home but you need a little more planning. After all, you can't usually just run to the store if you're out of something once you get to camp. RV cooking facilities are a scaled down version of your home range and oven, so you may need to adjust portions and allow extra time for preparing multiple courses. The big Thanksgiving turkey you roast at home probably won't fit it in your RV oven so you might have to cut it in half or cook two smaller birds. Microwaves in big RVs are often full size and even the smaller ones are good for whipping up instant oatmeal or hot cocoa in the mornings.
Camp menu basics. Camp menus should be a useful tool, not a rigid rule. Some people like things to be spontaneous, but you still need to plan ahead enough to make sure you have enough ingredients to cover all the meals. Use the KISS priciple: Keep It Simple Stupid. Unless you REALLY have a need or desire for a particularly fancy meal, stick to simple foods that are fun, easy to prepare and easy to clean up after. Plan meals that use standard, simple ingredients to avoid having to bring along too much stuff. tandard, simple ingredients can be combined to make a variety of meals, keeping your camp menu interesting, easy, and healthy.
Menu planning. In order to prepare for our desert dirt-bike trips, I set up a spreadsheet for planning the menu. I set it up day by day and meal by meal. I estimate the quantity of each item or ingredient per person and use a multiplier for the number of people on the trip to generate a shopping list via the spreadsheet. That makes it effective for different trips with different numbers of people . Even without the generated shopping list, setting up a daily meal planner makes it easier to figure out what to eat and what provisions you'll need. Menu planning doesn't mean you are OCD and using a spreadsheet is not over kill -- it is simply a useful and flexible tool that makes planning and shopping easier. We try to avoid duplication so meals don't get boring, but, on longer trips, repeating the same meals can conserve resources and preparation time. Having the menu prepared in advance eliminates the "what do I fix for this meal" quandry and avoids unnecessary delays. But having a pre-set menu doesn't have to be restrictive. Use it as a guideline. You can always swap meals around as circumstances change. A sudden storm might dictate swapping the planned burgers or steak dinner prepared on the outdoor grill or campfire for hot chili from the microwave planned for another night.
Breakfast is said to be the most important meal of the day. When camping, it is often all too easy to skip or skimp because we like to sleep in and we're anxious to get to our planned activities. We usually compromised nutrition the first morning of a dirt bike outing in favor of convenience and fun, bringing donuts and either milk or orange juice for a quick start. Try to plan on "real" breakfasts for other days. Bacon and eggs is a pretty easy meal to fix and provides the protein you need for participating in activities that may be more strenuous than your daily grind. The fragrance of bacon sizzling on a campfire is a good way to wake up and start the day. Cold cereal is quick and easy. Instant oatmeal is nice on cooler mornings, even if you have to boil water over a campfire. The microwave in your RV really makes it "instant", with each serving ready in about 1 minute. Oatmeal especially hits the spot on cold or stormy days and it seems to "stick to your ribs" and satisfy your hunger and nutritional needs for several hours. For camping I especially like the single serving envelopes which provide convenience and variety and don't spill. They're a little more expensive than bulk packages but are a nice format for camping. I've even found boxes of 3 packets at Dollar Tree so they don't have to be expensive -- 33 cents a serving is pretty darn cheap! Pancakes are another camp favorite but they take a little more preparation and cleanup time. You can cook them on your RV or camp stove or on a griddle on your BBQ or camp fire. Waffles are a bit more of a challenge but are certainly doable. If you have 120-volt power available, you can use an electric waffle baker like you do at home. Or you might look for an old fashioned cast iron waffle maker you can use in the campfire or on your stove. We've had success with both options. You'd better really like waffles, because the electric waffle maker takes up a lot of room and that cast iron waffle baker is going to be heavy! Cornmeal mush is an interesting alternative to ordinary breakfast cereals and lends a pioneer kind of ambiance. Nothing special here. Just cook ordinary cornmeal like you would oatmeal and serve it with plenty of butter and honey. If you're backpacking, you'll be more limited in your choices and will probably lean toward dehydrated meals to minimize weight. Sometimes you might be able to supplement your packaged meals with fresh caught fish. Powdered eggs and powdered milk have come a long way since the tasteless versions made infamous in World War II movies. You don't have to have electricity to enjoy toast at breakfast. There are simple and inexpensive campfire/camp stove toasters. They usually consist of a metal frame that holds the bread. For campfire use you should set them up on a cast iron grill or skillet. You might get away with using them directly over the burners on a camp stove, but to avoid adding the taste of burning gas to your toast, it is better to use a pan there too. In any case, putting them in some kind of pan helps to avoid having your toast burst into flames if you aren't keeping a constant eye on them. For a more rustic approach, put your bread on a stick and toast it over the campfire like you would hotdogs or marshmallows.
Lunch in camp should be fast, easy, and fairly light. You don't want to tank up on a lot of heavy food before embarking on your afternoon adventure. For summer, focus on cool lunches. Cold cuts and other deli type sandwiches are quick and easy. For cooler outings you might want some hot lunch. Hot dogs are quick and easy. Hot dogs are best when roasted over the campfire but can be done on your BBQ, fried up on your camp or RV stove, microwaved, or boiled. I prefer mine roasted so I usually only use boiling when I have to feed a large group because I can get a lot of dogs ready all at one time. Add some chips, some canned beans, and some potato or macaroni salad, and you've got a pretty complete meal in minutes. Green salads are a light and nutritious meal but often require a lot of extra provisions and/or preparation time. To jump start the process, buy pre-packaged salad greens at the grocery store. Then all you have to do is dump some in a bowl and add dressing. I recall the punch line of an old TV commercial for salad dressing: "Without Wishbone, a salad is just a bowl of wet vegetables", but I've found salads without dressing are pretty sweet tasting as well as healthier. If you're planning salads, bring along a variety of dressings (if you have room) to satisfy the tastes all your eaters. Lunches in camp lend themselves well to paper plates and buffet-style serving, further minimizing setup and cleanup time. It is a good time to relax in your favorite camp chair under your awning and rest up for the afternoon's activities. The less time you spend preparing and cleaning up, the more time you have to relax or enjoy your scheduled activities. Small, plastic containers are the most convenient for camping. For long-term savings, buy larger sizes you can store at home and refill your smaller plastic containers for each trip.
Dinner is usually the heaviest and most formal meal of the day. We like a good hot meal at the end of the day, even in summer time. But it doesn't have to be fancy. Hamburgers are one of the staples of our desert outings. For colder evenings, my wife makes a wonderfully sweet chili we call "Marilyn's Marvelous Mojave Mild Chili". We often make it with ground turkey instead of ground beef for a lighter and maybe healthier version. Top it with shredded cheese and serve it with "Scoops" corn chips or French bread. Our preferred beverage with chili is milk. A nice feature of home made chili is you can season it to your particular taste. We like ours with a healthy dose of brown sugar in it! Canned chili is convenient, but I find it often has a bit of a metallic taste I don't particularly care for. Beef stew is another good choice for cooler nights. It is easy to prepare and tastes great after a day of vigorous activity. I usually cheat and use canned stew, but home-made stew simmered over the campfire is an especially delicious treat -- if you have time to put it together. A Dutch oven is also a good way to simmer stew or chili or prepare other main courses and even deserts. I like to think of the Dutch oven as the pioneer version of a crock pot. Sometimes we like to splurge and have steak and baked potatoes. Such a meal makes you feel like royalty. Both the steaks and the potatoes can be cooked using your camp or RV stove, BBQ, or campfire. While broiling steaks on the campfire can be fun and provide a rewarding challenge, I like to use a portable propane powered BBQ, just because it is easy and usually faster and I have more control. The potatoes can be done in foil in the campfire or on the BBQ or in your RV or camp stove oven or microwave (without the foil!). Coleman makes an oven that fits on their camp stoves that works pretty well for most baking tasks. It folds flat for storage and transport so it takes up little space and is a good option when car camping. Hobo stew is another perennial favorite. Wrap your favorite meat and vegetables in foil, season to taste, and cook them in the campfire or on the BBQ. When RV camping we like to pre-cook the meat and potatoes in the microwave to speed up the process. For tent outings we often pre-cook the meat and potatoes at home before preparing the foil packets to take along. Pre-cooking the other veggies usually makes them mushy so, unless you LIKE mushy vegetables, just let them cook in the campfire.
Grilled veggies are not common fare the U.S., but it is an easy and healthy way to fix them. Go easy on the oil and don't over cook them. Unless there is some reason you need or like them mushy, they should remain crisp. Sometimes this is a fun way to get kids to eat their vegetables when they turn up their noses at traditional canned or frozen versions. I have never like canned peas very well.
Snacks are perhaps more important than you realize. Most of us extend ourselves a bit more than usual when we're camping and that requires more calories and you'll probably get the munchies long before dinner. So snacks are more than just a luxury or indulgence. Appropriate snacks will stave off hunger and help prevent you from over-eating at mealtime while providing timely energy for your activities. They should be a part of your planned nutrition for outdoor activities. In warm weather or for any kind of strenuous activities you'll need extra fluids and electrolytes so include plenty of sports drinks. It is best to get your calories at regular intervals rather than wait several hours between meals. As long as you don't pig out, you can probably enjoy just about any favorite snack without too much impact on your waistline. After all, you're probably burning more calories than usual. Of course to maintain a healthier approach, have some fresh fruit, but a few cookies and a glass of milk or a favorite candy bar or granola bar can fill that empty spot without completely ruining your diet. On hot summer days you may want to go for Popsicles or snow cones. Not a lot of nutrition there, but they're cool and refreshing and have plenty of sugar for quick energy. They will also provide some fluid too, but you'll still need to supplement it with sport drinks and plenty of water. Ice cream treats are nice on warm days -- if you have a working freezer in you RV fridge or a really good ice chest. On cooler afternoons a cup of hot cocoa or other hot beverage might be more appealing, but remember caffeine accelerates dehydration which can still be a problem in cool or cold weather. We also enjoy a warm dip made from chili and cream cheese and served with Scoops or tortilla chips around the campfire on cool evenings. Individually packaged pies and snack cakes are a convenient and tasty treat. Keep an eye out for special sales at your local grocery store or stock up when McDonalds has pies 2 for $1.00. You might freeze them to keep them fresh and then either microwave them or set them out in the sun to warm them up when you get to camp. You might even heat them over the campfire. We also like to make fresh pies using campfire pie cookers. All you need is some bread and pie filling (and the pie cookers!). Everyone can have their individual pies with their favorite filling and cooked just the way they like them. These warm, home made treats are especially welcome when its cold outside.
Basic provisions. In addition to specific ingredients for planned meals, it is good to have some basic provisions in your RV or camp kit. Ours includes flour, sugar, salt, pepper, cinnamon, season salt, pancake mix, syrup, cooking oil, honey, and a variety of favorite spices. Add whatever other spices your use regularly. Having basic provisions on hand allows you to add variety to your planned menu and could provide extra meals if your stay gets extended or you have unexpected guests. I keep a variety of canned goods on board for emergencies -- soups, stew, chili, and tuna, but be careful that you don't end up carrying around a whole lot of extra weight you don't need and never use.
MREs and dehydrated food. Military Meals Read To Eat (MREs) and dehydrated foods are often marketed for camping. Dehydrated foods are a pretty good option for back packing where you want to minimize the amount of weight you are carrying and where you expect to have plenty of water along the way to reconstitute the meals. MREs are just plain pricey, but they're convenient and have a long shelf life. I don't think you'll save much weight carrying dehydrated foods in your RV. You'll have to bring along enough water to prepare them. Dehydrated foods are kind of expensive and, for most people, not all that appetizing. They taste pretty darn good after a day's hiking, but in your RV or even when car camping, you'll probably enjoy canned or frozen foods more.
Sample Camp Menu. Here is a sample menu typical of our 3-day dirt biking trips to the Mojave Desert.
Day 1 Breakfast Donuts, milk Lunch Hot Dogs, chips, soda Dinner Beef Stew
Day 2 Breakfast Cold cereal, milk, orange juice
Lunch Cold cut sandwiches, chips, soda
Dinner Chili
Day 3 Breakfast Pankcakes, eggs orange juice
Lunch Tuna sandwiches, chips, soda
Dinner Hamburgers,chips, soda
This gives us some options yet is built around a minimum of supplies and ingredients. If you want something a little fancier, substitute steak for chili or hamburgers.
In summary, plan your menu ahead of time and keep it simple. Focus on meals and snacks appropriate to the season and the activity.
Bon appetite!
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
Spring Cleaning
Today is March 21 -- the official First Day of Spring in the northern hemisphere. Most places with 4 distinct seasons are (hopefully) shaking off winter. Signs of spring are popping up. The grass is getting green, leaves are budding out on trees, robins have returned. That also means it is time to start preparing your RV and camping equipment for a new season of family fun. I find getting my equipment ready for camping is welcome outlet from months of being cooped up inside during winter weather. Its not as much fun as camping, but the anticipation of what is coming creates a lot of excitement -- and a fair amount of stress release.
RVs have often been idle all winter and need preparation for the upcoming camping season. Start by inspecting the outside of your unit. If it has been outdoors, be sure to check the roof for any damage that might have been caused by falling limbs or other airborne debris during storms. Give it a good washing and check for loose panels or fasteners. Check for leaks in the roof and around doors and windows. Check your tires. If they are more than a few years old, they may have developed sidewall cracks. Check the inflation pressure. Some loss of pressure over time is normal so you'll probably need to inflate them to the proper pressure before driving. Check the vehicle specifications. If not available, inflate to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall. Never exceed the maximum sidewall pressure, even if the tire looks low. T emperature swings during the winter months cause flexing of body panels and windows which can sometimes lead to cracks or separations and you'll want to identify and correct any such problems before you hit the road. Be sure to check your batteries, propane system, and belts and hoses. Rubber components can dry out and weaken or crack during storage. Test them NOW so you don't have an unfortunate incident out on the road or get stranded in some remote camp ground. Check radiator and heater hoses visually and by squeezing them. Hoses should be flexible but not squishy. Tighten all hose clamps. In addition for looking for leaks or cracks, squeeze the hoses. Hoses should be pliable. Hoses that are brittle or squishy should be replaced. You can test exposed portions of the propane system for leaks by spraying a solution of soapy water on any connections you can see. If bubbles appear, there is a leak that needs to be fixed before lighting any appliances. The size and speed with which the bubbles form is an indicator of the size of the leak. You may be able to tighten loose connections, but take care not to over-tighten them, which can cause further damage. Other leaks will need professional repairs. Propane systems sometimes accumulate moisture which can lead to freeze damage in cold climates. Be sure to test all your appliances to make sure they are functioning properly. Problems with individual appliances may be debris or incest webs or nests in burners or vents that need to cleaned out or failure of a component, such as the computer control board or the thermocouple. Winter temperature changes may tweak components out of alignment so make sure the burner is adjusted properly. I f nothing works right, you may be out of propane or lines or the regulator may be damaged. Moisture in the system sometimes condenses and freezes in the regulator or in low-lying loops of the lines. Of course you'll want to make sure the main valve is turned on and you have propane in the tank before calling a technician.
Clean all the outside lights and check them for proper operation. It is not unusual for the ground connections on lights to corrode over the winter. You may need to clean the ground connections. Look for black wires, usually about #12 guage, that are connected to some metal frame component. The screws may be loose or the connector may be corroded. Sometimes the base of the bulbs also corrode. Cleaning them may get them working. If not, you may have to replace the bulbs. Corroded sockets or fixtures may need to replaced. Replace any missing or damaged lenses. Proper functioning of lights is essential for safety -- and may avoid a "fix it" ticket.
Awnings should be unrolled and examined. Clean any dirt or mildew that has accumulated over the winter. Even if you made sure it was dry when you last rolled it up, humidity may have condensed on the fabric during temperature swings over the winter. If any of the mechanism is stiff or sticky, clean and lubricate it. If any of the arms or supports are bent you might try to gently straighten them. To do this successfully you may have to remove them and lay them out on a flat surface. If they can't be straightened successfully, replace them as soon as possible. Bent arms will lead to further problems that will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the initial damaged component. If cleaning and lubricating all moving parts doesn't get things moving right, have it checked out by an RV technician. Damaged components will interfere with normal operation and may lead to serious malfunctions and permanent damage to the awning and/or the RV itself if the awning comes loose during travel.
Interior preparations. RVs in storage are attractive homes for insects and vermin during winter months, so check inside your exterior storage cabinets and throughout the interior for any evidence of their presence. Remove spider webs, brush or vacuum dust and debris from the refrigerator vents, inspect and, if necessary clear and clean furnace vents and the burners in refrigerators and water heaters. If you find rodent droppings in your RV, clean them up right away and set some traps. To prevent rodents from taking up residence I usually put some D-con poison in my RV over the winter. Remove bedding and vacuum the mattress. Wash the bedding before reinstalling it. Even if you haven't used the beds, dust will have accumulated and humidity may have infiltrated below the surface and provided an environment for bacteria growth that may not be obvious. Having fresh bedding will make slipping between the sheets a real pleasure that first night in camp. Even if the bedding appears clean and smells OK, it may not remain so pleasant to use. Sweat may release dormant odors that accumulated over the winter. Check all your interior lights and 12-volt appliances (like fans and radios) for proper operation and make repairs as necessary. This is also a good time to clean all of the lenses on the lights. Check the batteries in clocks and smoke detectors. Replace any that are weak.
Provisions need to be checked. Anything that froze over the winter will probably need to be tossed out and replaced. Be sure to check the expiration dates on all edibles and medicines as well and get rid of outdated items. Any containers that are bulging or leaking should be discarded and replaced. Things like lotions, shampoos and liquid soaps may have separated. Sometimes you can reclaim them by shaking them, but if they have an unusual odor or will not regain their original consistency and color, replace them. Far better to spend a few extra $ and be confident of your supplies when you need them. Things like sun screens and insect repellants will lose much of their effectiveness if they've been frozen or are too old so you should get fresh ones each season.
Cabinets, closets, drawers, and storage tubs all need to be inspected, cleaned and organized. Inventory and inspect contents. Repair or replace damaged items. Discard and replace outdated medical supplies and food items. Remove unnecessary clutter, and put things back where they belong so you'll be able to find them when you need them on your outings.
Camp clothing you may have stored in your RV or or tent camping tubs should be inventoried. It may need to be cleaned or repaired. Consider the appropriateness of your wardrobe. You may have accumulated heavy winter clothing you won't need again for many months and may need to substitute articles more suitable for spring and summer activities before you venture out.
De-winterize your water systems. You should delay this step until you are certain you won't get any more freezing weather. However, I would try to schedule it at least a week before any planned outings. That will give you time to make an repairs that may be need and for any residual chlorine from sanitizing the fresh water tank to dissipate. When it is time to de-winterize your fresh water system, fill the fresh water tank about half full and flush all the lines until all the pink RV antifreeze has cleared. Re-set the bypass valves on the water heater and fill the water heater and test it. If the water has an unpleasant odor, add about a half cup of ordinary household bleach to the fresh water tank and then either drive the unit to mix it in or add more water to stir things up. Then flush the lines until you can smell the chlorine at each fixture. Let it sit for a few hours, then drain the tank completely, re-fill and flush the lines with clean water until the chlorine smell is gone. If you have trouble getting rid of the chlorine smell, you may have used too much bleach. Add about cup of baking soda to the fresh water tank, drive your RV to mix it up, then flush it through all lines and fixtures and let it sit for a few hours. You should then be able to drain the tank and flush the lines and have fresh, clean-smelling water throughout your RV. If you have any doubts about water quality purchase some fresh water treatment from your favorite RV supply store and add it to perk things up a bit before your next trip. Be sure to inspect your water system for leaks or any unexpected freeze damage. Even though I meticulously winterize my RVs, I've twice had the outside shower controls freeze up and crack. Obviously I didn't get enough antifreeze into them. Water won't care about your good intentions. It will simply obey the laws of physics and expand when it freezes, often breaking pipes or fixtures. Depending on how much water you flushed into the holding tanks you may need to add more be be able to flush them. They should be at least half full for proper flushing. Dump and flush the tanks and add chemicals as usual. Clean and service the air conditioners. Older roof air conditioners may need lubrication. Newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated. For older unis, a few drops of motor oil in the oil ports on the motor should do the trick. Clean the fins on the condenser (outside) and the filters (inside). Most filters are made of foam and can be easily removed and hand washed with soap and water. Rinse them thoroughly and squeeze out any excess water. You may want to lay them on a paper towel to dry before re-installing them.
Appliances. Check all your appliances to ensure they are proper working order and adjusted correctly. Propane attracts certain spiders so burners on furnaces, water heaters, and refrigerators may have accumulated webs and nests that will interfere with proper operation. Don't forget your portable BBQ, camp stove, and lanterns. Fire up your generator and test the microwave. Test all your electronic equipment (radios, TVs, media players, etc).
Tent camping may not have all the complex systems of an RV for winterizing and spring cleaning, but there are certain tasks you should do in preparation for the new season. Insects and vermin may have found their way into your stored equipment, even into plastic tubs, so take everything out and clean and inspect it. This is also a good time to make an repairs that might have been missed when the equipment was stored. Take inventory of your tools and supplies. Repair or replace any damaged or missing equipment and get rid of exhausted or outdated supplies. Winter temperatures or just age may have affected foods, medicine, and cleaning supplies, so check them carefully and replace anything that looks or smells suspicious. Sharpen axes and knives. Make sure all tools and utensils are clean and properly stored where you'll need them. Sometimes moisture may have made its way into stored tents or sleeping bags. They may be just damp, but often they may have begun to mildew. At the very least you'll need to hang them out to dry. Mildew can be treated with anti-mildew sprays. If they are badly soiled, stained, or smelly, take the to the dry cleaners to be cleaned. When the items are thoroughly dry and any needed repairs have been made they can be rolled back up. Be sure to inspect tent pegs and poles. Replace any damaged items. Your tent pegs should have been cleaned before they were put away. If they were not, clean them now and check for corrosion that might have weakened them over the winter. Replace any that have been weakened by rust, corrosion, or other damage. Even clean metal pegs may rust due to humidity, so make sure none are weakened. They won't do you much good if they bend when you try to pound them in or snap off and let your tent blow over. Fire up your camp stove and lantern and make sure they are adjusted correctly and functioning properly. If they're not, now is the time to make repairs and adjustments. Service your camp stove and lantern. Make sure the pump seals are soft and working. Test them to see if the generators need to be replaced. Be sure to clean all the openings in the stove burners. They do tend to get clogged up from spills during normal use. If you use a portable 120-volt generator, give it a complete checkout -- change the oil and oil, fuel, and air filters. Give it a test run to make sure it is adjusted right.
Go over your regular pre-trip checklist to be sure everything is ship shape for your first outing. Even though that first outing may be a few weeks away, checking everything out now will give you time to take care of any repairs, replacements, or additions you need to make.
Tools. Go through all your tools. Make sure nothing is missing or out of place. Clean every item so it is free from grease, dirt, and rust. Repair or replace any damaged tools. Take inventory and see if you need to add any items. Was there anything you needed last season that you didn't have? Did any of your fellow campers have new tools last year you don't have that would be of benefit to you? As you put them away, make sure they are neatly organized and easy to access. Just dumping everything into a canvas bag isn't very useful. You'd probably be better off leaving it all at home and reducing your rolling weight than having a jumble of stuff you won't be able to conveniently use and probably won't be able to find what you need when you need it.
If you are an OHV or personal water craft rider, now is also the time to get your ride and gear ready for the upcoming season. After a winter in storage, your equipment will need a good cleaning and you'll want to perform routine lubrication and adjustments to make sure everything is ready to go. You may want to drain and replace the fuel, especially if you didn't add any preservatives before storage. Oil and filters should be changed. Even without use, the winter temperature changes and humidity may have introduced moisture or caused additives to breakdown. An oil and filter change is a lot less expensive than rebuilding an engine damage by poor lubrication! Check out your gear to make sure insects or vermin haven't taken up residence or otherwise damaged it. Inventory and inspect your tools and supplies. Replace any used up, damaged, or missing items.
Inventory time. Now is a good time to go through your camping bins or your RV closets, cabinets, and drawers, and do a complete inventory. Check to see if anything is missing or out of place. Check expiration dates on foodstuffs and medical supplies. Examine gear and equipment for any needed repairs. You want everything to be in A-number-one condition when you hit the road soon.
If you've spent a lot of time "hibernating" you may need to do some personal tuneup as well. Between the Holiday feasting and being confined to the sofa or computer desk for several months, your body probably needs a little exercise to get you prepared for the upcoming camping season. Start off easy and work your way to to more strenuous sessions to avoid unnecessary pain and possible injury.
Clean up!
RVs have often been idle all winter and need preparation for the upcoming camping season. Start by inspecting the outside of your unit. If it has been outdoors, be sure to check the roof for any damage that might have been caused by falling limbs or other airborne debris during storms. Give it a good washing and check for loose panels or fasteners. Check for leaks in the roof and around doors and windows. Check your tires. If they are more than a few years old, they may have developed sidewall cracks. Check the inflation pressure. Some loss of pressure over time is normal so you'll probably need to inflate them to the proper pressure before driving. Check the vehicle specifications. If not available, inflate to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall. Never exceed the maximum sidewall pressure, even if the tire looks low. T emperature swings during the winter months cause flexing of body panels and windows which can sometimes lead to cracks or separations and you'll want to identify and correct any such problems before you hit the road. Be sure to check your batteries, propane system, and belts and hoses. Rubber components can dry out and weaken or crack during storage. Test them NOW so you don't have an unfortunate incident out on the road or get stranded in some remote camp ground. Check radiator and heater hoses visually and by squeezing them. Hoses should be flexible but not squishy. Tighten all hose clamps. In addition for looking for leaks or cracks, squeeze the hoses. Hoses should be pliable. Hoses that are brittle or squishy should be replaced. You can test exposed portions of the propane system for leaks by spraying a solution of soapy water on any connections you can see. If bubbles appear, there is a leak that needs to be fixed before lighting any appliances. The size and speed with which the bubbles form is an indicator of the size of the leak. You may be able to tighten loose connections, but take care not to over-tighten them, which can cause further damage. Other leaks will need professional repairs. Propane systems sometimes accumulate moisture which can lead to freeze damage in cold climates. Be sure to test all your appliances to make sure they are functioning properly. Problems with individual appliances may be debris or incest webs or nests in burners or vents that need to cleaned out or failure of a component, such as the computer control board or the thermocouple. Winter temperature changes may tweak components out of alignment so make sure the burner is adjusted properly. I f nothing works right, you may be out of propane or lines or the regulator may be damaged. Moisture in the system sometimes condenses and freezes in the regulator or in low-lying loops of the lines. Of course you'll want to make sure the main valve is turned on and you have propane in the tank before calling a technician.
Clean all the outside lights and check them for proper operation. It is not unusual for the ground connections on lights to corrode over the winter. You may need to clean the ground connections. Look for black wires, usually about #12 guage, that are connected to some metal frame component. The screws may be loose or the connector may be corroded. Sometimes the base of the bulbs also corrode. Cleaning them may get them working. If not, you may have to replace the bulbs. Corroded sockets or fixtures may need to replaced. Replace any missing or damaged lenses. Proper functioning of lights is essential for safety -- and may avoid a "fix it" ticket.
Awnings should be unrolled and examined. Clean any dirt or mildew that has accumulated over the winter. Even if you made sure it was dry when you last rolled it up, humidity may have condensed on the fabric during temperature swings over the winter. If any of the mechanism is stiff or sticky, clean and lubricate it. If any of the arms or supports are bent you might try to gently straighten them. To do this successfully you may have to remove them and lay them out on a flat surface. If they can't be straightened successfully, replace them as soon as possible. Bent arms will lead to further problems that will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the initial damaged component. If cleaning and lubricating all moving parts doesn't get things moving right, have it checked out by an RV technician. Damaged components will interfere with normal operation and may lead to serious malfunctions and permanent damage to the awning and/or the RV itself if the awning comes loose during travel.
Interior preparations. RVs in storage are attractive homes for insects and vermin during winter months, so check inside your exterior storage cabinets and throughout the interior for any evidence of their presence. Remove spider webs, brush or vacuum dust and debris from the refrigerator vents, inspect and, if necessary clear and clean furnace vents and the burners in refrigerators and water heaters. If you find rodent droppings in your RV, clean them up right away and set some traps. To prevent rodents from taking up residence I usually put some D-con poison in my RV over the winter. Remove bedding and vacuum the mattress. Wash the bedding before reinstalling it. Even if you haven't used the beds, dust will have accumulated and humidity may have infiltrated below the surface and provided an environment for bacteria growth that may not be obvious. Having fresh bedding will make slipping between the sheets a real pleasure that first night in camp. Even if the bedding appears clean and smells OK, it may not remain so pleasant to use. Sweat may release dormant odors that accumulated over the winter. Check all your interior lights and 12-volt appliances (like fans and radios) for proper operation and make repairs as necessary. This is also a good time to clean all of the lenses on the lights. Check the batteries in clocks and smoke detectors. Replace any that are weak.
Provisions need to be checked. Anything that froze over the winter will probably need to be tossed out and replaced. Be sure to check the expiration dates on all edibles and medicines as well and get rid of outdated items. Any containers that are bulging or leaking should be discarded and replaced. Things like lotions, shampoos and liquid soaps may have separated. Sometimes you can reclaim them by shaking them, but if they have an unusual odor or will not regain their original consistency and color, replace them. Far better to spend a few extra $ and be confident of your supplies when you need them. Things like sun screens and insect repellants will lose much of their effectiveness if they've been frozen or are too old so you should get fresh ones each season.
Cabinets, closets, drawers, and storage tubs all need to be inspected, cleaned and organized. Inventory and inspect contents. Repair or replace damaged items. Discard and replace outdated medical supplies and food items. Remove unnecessary clutter, and put things back where they belong so you'll be able to find them when you need them on your outings.
Camp clothing you may have stored in your RV or or tent camping tubs should be inventoried. It may need to be cleaned or repaired. Consider the appropriateness of your wardrobe. You may have accumulated heavy winter clothing you won't need again for many months and may need to substitute articles more suitable for spring and summer activities before you venture out.
De-winterize your water systems. You should delay this step until you are certain you won't get any more freezing weather. However, I would try to schedule it at least a week before any planned outings. That will give you time to make an repairs that may be need and for any residual chlorine from sanitizing the fresh water tank to dissipate. When it is time to de-winterize your fresh water system, fill the fresh water tank about half full and flush all the lines until all the pink RV antifreeze has cleared. Re-set the bypass valves on the water heater and fill the water heater and test it. If the water has an unpleasant odor, add about a half cup of ordinary household bleach to the fresh water tank and then either drive the unit to mix it in or add more water to stir things up. Then flush the lines until you can smell the chlorine at each fixture. Let it sit for a few hours, then drain the tank completely, re-fill and flush the lines with clean water until the chlorine smell is gone. If you have trouble getting rid of the chlorine smell, you may have used too much bleach. Add about cup of baking soda to the fresh water tank, drive your RV to mix it up, then flush it through all lines and fixtures and let it sit for a few hours. You should then be able to drain the tank and flush the lines and have fresh, clean-smelling water throughout your RV. If you have any doubts about water quality purchase some fresh water treatment from your favorite RV supply store and add it to perk things up a bit before your next trip. Be sure to inspect your water system for leaks or any unexpected freeze damage. Even though I meticulously winterize my RVs, I've twice had the outside shower controls freeze up and crack. Obviously I didn't get enough antifreeze into them. Water won't care about your good intentions. It will simply obey the laws of physics and expand when it freezes, often breaking pipes or fixtures. Depending on how much water you flushed into the holding tanks you may need to add more be be able to flush them. They should be at least half full for proper flushing. Dump and flush the tanks and add chemicals as usual. Clean and service the air conditioners. Older roof air conditioners may need lubrication. Newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated. For older unis, a few drops of motor oil in the oil ports on the motor should do the trick. Clean the fins on the condenser (outside) and the filters (inside). Most filters are made of foam and can be easily removed and hand washed with soap and water. Rinse them thoroughly and squeeze out any excess water. You may want to lay them on a paper towel to dry before re-installing them.
Appliances. Check all your appliances to ensure they are proper working order and adjusted correctly. Propane attracts certain spiders so burners on furnaces, water heaters, and refrigerators may have accumulated webs and nests that will interfere with proper operation. Don't forget your portable BBQ, camp stove, and lanterns. Fire up your generator and test the microwave. Test all your electronic equipment (radios, TVs, media players, etc).
Tent camping may not have all the complex systems of an RV for winterizing and spring cleaning, but there are certain tasks you should do in preparation for the new season. Insects and vermin may have found their way into your stored equipment, even into plastic tubs, so take everything out and clean and inspect it. This is also a good time to make an repairs that might have been missed when the equipment was stored. Take inventory of your tools and supplies. Repair or replace any damaged or missing equipment and get rid of exhausted or outdated supplies. Winter temperatures or just age may have affected foods, medicine, and cleaning supplies, so check them carefully and replace anything that looks or smells suspicious. Sharpen axes and knives. Make sure all tools and utensils are clean and properly stored where you'll need them. Sometimes moisture may have made its way into stored tents or sleeping bags. They may be just damp, but often they may have begun to mildew. At the very least you'll need to hang them out to dry. Mildew can be treated with anti-mildew sprays. If they are badly soiled, stained, or smelly, take the to the dry cleaners to be cleaned. When the items are thoroughly dry and any needed repairs have been made they can be rolled back up. Be sure to inspect tent pegs and poles. Replace any damaged items. Your tent pegs should have been cleaned before they were put away. If they were not, clean them now and check for corrosion that might have weakened them over the winter. Replace any that have been weakened by rust, corrosion, or other damage. Even clean metal pegs may rust due to humidity, so make sure none are weakened. They won't do you much good if they bend when you try to pound them in or snap off and let your tent blow over. Fire up your camp stove and lantern and make sure they are adjusted correctly and functioning properly. If they're not, now is the time to make repairs and adjustments. Service your camp stove and lantern. Make sure the pump seals are soft and working. Test them to see if the generators need to be replaced. Be sure to clean all the openings in the stove burners. They do tend to get clogged up from spills during normal use. If you use a portable 120-volt generator, give it a complete checkout -- change the oil and oil, fuel, and air filters. Give it a test run to make sure it is adjusted right.
Go over your regular pre-trip checklist to be sure everything is ship shape for your first outing. Even though that first outing may be a few weeks away, checking everything out now will give you time to take care of any repairs, replacements, or additions you need to make.
Tools. Go through all your tools. Make sure nothing is missing or out of place. Clean every item so it is free from grease, dirt, and rust. Repair or replace any damaged tools. Take inventory and see if you need to add any items. Was there anything you needed last season that you didn't have? Did any of your fellow campers have new tools last year you don't have that would be of benefit to you? As you put them away, make sure they are neatly organized and easy to access. Just dumping everything into a canvas bag isn't very useful. You'd probably be better off leaving it all at home and reducing your rolling weight than having a jumble of stuff you won't be able to conveniently use and probably won't be able to find what you need when you need it.
If you are an OHV or personal water craft rider, now is also the time to get your ride and gear ready for the upcoming season. After a winter in storage, your equipment will need a good cleaning and you'll want to perform routine lubrication and adjustments to make sure everything is ready to go. You may want to drain and replace the fuel, especially if you didn't add any preservatives before storage. Oil and filters should be changed. Even without use, the winter temperature changes and humidity may have introduced moisture or caused additives to breakdown. An oil and filter change is a lot less expensive than rebuilding an engine damage by poor lubrication! Check out your gear to make sure insects or vermin haven't taken up residence or otherwise damaged it. Inventory and inspect your tools and supplies. Replace any used up, damaged, or missing items.
Inventory time. Now is a good time to go through your camping bins or your RV closets, cabinets, and drawers, and do a complete inventory. Check to see if anything is missing or out of place. Check expiration dates on foodstuffs and medical supplies. Examine gear and equipment for any needed repairs. You want everything to be in A-number-one condition when you hit the road soon.
If you've spent a lot of time "hibernating" you may need to do some personal tuneup as well. Between the Holiday feasting and being confined to the sofa or computer desk for several months, your body probably needs a little exercise to get you prepared for the upcoming camping season. Start off easy and work your way to to more strenuous sessions to avoid unnecessary pain and possible injury.
Clean up!
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
RV Dealers
RV Dealers are sometimes rolled into the same category as used car salesmen. However, any really reputable dealer is going to be more interested in helping you find the right RV at the right price than in making a fast sale. You may encounter high pressure tactics in some places. After all, most salesmen work on commission and need the sales to make a living. But a good salesman will know he's better off helping you make the right decision than pushing you into something you'll regret just to pad his next paycheck. He or she will be focused on the long term instead of the short term. If you're happy with your purchase, you're likely to return when you outgrow your RV or are ready for an upgrade and you'll probably tell your friends and bring him more business. If he pushes you to buy something you won't be happy with, you are likely to go elsewhere for your next purchase and will probably not refer your friends if not dissuade your friends from ever coming in. To me, high pressure tactics are an immediate indicator to look somewhere else. Reputable dealers can be a tremendous help when you're looking to buy an RV. They know the market and can guide you in finding the unit that fits your needs and your budget. You may pay a little more from a dealer because he has to pay his salesmen, cover any reconditioning he has done and set aside an allowance for any needed warranty work. In many cases, meeting his price is well worth it. It can add peace of mind and may actually save you money in he long run.
Finding a really reputable dealer involves more than just checking out the Yellow Pages or doing a simple Google search. Check the Internet for any feedback from other customers. Check your local Better Business Bureau. Any business may get complaints, but a very strong indicator of the character of the business and the owner is how they handle problems. Briefly check out the used inventory. It should be clean and attractively displayed. A good dealer is going to wholesale unusable units and detail good ones so they show well. Check out the service department if you can. Mechanics should be properly certified. Certifications are usually clearly displayed in an area where customers can easily view them. The service bays should be clean and well organized. You might get a low price buying an RV from a used car lot, but if they don't specialize in used RVs, it is unlikely they have the experience or knowledge to provide good advice, proper inspection and reconditioning, or adequate warranty service.
Beware of unusually low prices. I remember a sign at one store that read "We have no problem with those who sell for less. They know what their products are worth." You can expect to pay more for a used RV from a dealer than from a private party, but it may very well be worth it. The dealer's price includes the salesman's commission, any re-conditioning that was required, and an allowance for any warranty offered. In most states, any vehicle must pass minimum safety requirements before a dealer can offer it for sale. Other re-conditioning may reduce the amount of repairs, upgrades, or other TLC the dealer has done that otherwise you may have to do when you get it home. Private parties are not bound by the laws affecting retailers so you could end up with serious safety issues if you don't have any private party purchase checked by a competent mechanic and/or technician before you buy. For your own comfort you may want to have your mechanic check out ANY used vehicle, even if you are buying it from a dealer. If you find an exceptionally good price on a unit you are interested in buying, don't be afraid to ask why the price is so low. Perhaps it is a consignment vehicle and the owner needs a quick sale due to a medical or financial emergency. Perhaps the dealer obtained it at at good price through an estate sale or as a repossession. Perhaps it was advertised as a "loss leader" -- merchants will sometimes offer certain products below their cost just to lure customers into the store, hoping to make it up on sales of other items. If there is no legitimate reason for the reduced price, it may be because there is some hidden underlying problem that is too expensive for the dealer to repair. Sometimes you can make out on such a unit, IF you are aware or the issue(s) and you are prepared to take care of the repairs yourself and the price leaves you enough to compensate for the work that needs to be done.
"Special sale prices" are often worth checking out. Dealers may offer one or more units as "loss leaders" to bring people into the dealership. They will, of course, try to steer you to higher priced vehicles, but once they have advertised a certain vehicle at a certain price, they are legally obligated to honor the offer. They may try to up sell you on something better, but if you are satisfied with the sale unit, you may indeed get a good deal if you insist on buying it. Some shady dealers may offer a sub-standard unit at ridiculously low prices knowing no one will want to buy it. If you repeatedly find the specially priced unit has been sold before your get there or the "special" is just a piece of junk, the dealer might be running a false ad, which is worthy of both reporting to the Better Business Bureau and your Attorney General. Legitimate dealers won't play those games.
Let's Make A Deal!
Finding a really reputable dealer involves more than just checking out the Yellow Pages or doing a simple Google search. Check the Internet for any feedback from other customers. Check your local Better Business Bureau. Any business may get complaints, but a very strong indicator of the character of the business and the owner is how they handle problems. Briefly check out the used inventory. It should be clean and attractively displayed. A good dealer is going to wholesale unusable units and detail good ones so they show well. Check out the service department if you can. Mechanics should be properly certified. Certifications are usually clearly displayed in an area where customers can easily view them. The service bays should be clean and well organized. You might get a low price buying an RV from a used car lot, but if they don't specialize in used RVs, it is unlikely they have the experience or knowledge to provide good advice, proper inspection and reconditioning, or adequate warranty service.
Beware of unusually low prices. I remember a sign at one store that read "We have no problem with those who sell for less. They know what their products are worth." You can expect to pay more for a used RV from a dealer than from a private party, but it may very well be worth it. The dealer's price includes the salesman's commission, any re-conditioning that was required, and an allowance for any warranty offered. In most states, any vehicle must pass minimum safety requirements before a dealer can offer it for sale. Other re-conditioning may reduce the amount of repairs, upgrades, or other TLC the dealer has done that otherwise you may have to do when you get it home. Private parties are not bound by the laws affecting retailers so you could end up with serious safety issues if you don't have any private party purchase checked by a competent mechanic and/or technician before you buy. For your own comfort you may want to have your mechanic check out ANY used vehicle, even if you are buying it from a dealer. If you find an exceptionally good price on a unit you are interested in buying, don't be afraid to ask why the price is so low. Perhaps it is a consignment vehicle and the owner needs a quick sale due to a medical or financial emergency. Perhaps the dealer obtained it at at good price through an estate sale or as a repossession. Perhaps it was advertised as a "loss leader" -- merchants will sometimes offer certain products below their cost just to lure customers into the store, hoping to make it up on sales of other items. If there is no legitimate reason for the reduced price, it may be because there is some hidden underlying problem that is too expensive for the dealer to repair. Sometimes you can make out on such a unit, IF you are aware or the issue(s) and you are prepared to take care of the repairs yourself and the price leaves you enough to compensate for the work that needs to be done.
"Special sale prices" are often worth checking out. Dealers may offer one or more units as "loss leaders" to bring people into the dealership. They will, of course, try to steer you to higher priced vehicles, but once they have advertised a certain vehicle at a certain price, they are legally obligated to honor the offer. They may try to up sell you on something better, but if you are satisfied with the sale unit, you may indeed get a good deal if you insist on buying it. Some shady dealers may offer a sub-standard unit at ridiculously low prices knowing no one will want to buy it. If you repeatedly find the specially priced unit has been sold before your get there or the "special" is just a piece of junk, the dealer might be running a false ad, which is worthy of both reporting to the Better Business Bureau and your Attorney General. Legitimate dealers won't play those games.
Let's Make A Deal!
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Camp Dinnerware
Camp dinnerware? Yeah, right! As if there is anything really to be said about it. Well, actually, there is. My all time favorite is paper plates, bowls, and cups. I hate doing dishes when camping, either in my RV or in a tent. While some eco-freaks will complain about the waste of natural resources, it isn't really as bad as they like to make it seem. Using paper does consume some renewable resources, but consider the eco-impact of manufacturing, warehousing, shipping, and selling permanent dishes along with heating water and making and using detergents and disposing of the waste water. The overall ecological footprint of disposable goods is actually rather favorable -- and it's more convenient and saves time, which are both significant advantages when camping . A few years ago we had an eco-freak where I worked who was boycotting styrofoam cups and campaigning mightily for management to discontinue using them at the coffee machine -- until someone posted an article that described -- in accurate scientific detail -- the eco-impact of paper cups versus styrofoam. While styrofoam cups are slow to deteriorate in land fills, it's manufacture and use has a LOT less impact on the environment and smaller overall carbon footprint than paper cups. Net result: styrofoam wins! Using disposable items is not frivolous or irresponsible. It adds a great deal of convenience and saves a lot of time when camping, conserves propane and water, and reduces filling holding tanks,.
There may be times when paper plates won't cut it. Sometimes they're too flimsy for hot, heavy foods like steaks and baked potatoes or maybe you just feel like being a little fancier. Buffet style potluck dinners may demand larger and sturdier items. Y ou may be able to solve the flimsy problem by using plastic or wicker paper plate holders. I like the plastic ones that have a built in groove on the bottom that grips the rim of a soda can, making the can a convenient handle to hold the plate and keep track of my drink. The brand is Loc-a-plate but I think they are no longer being manufactured. If you happen to come on some anywhere, snag them up while you can! My favorite permanent camp dinnerware is the blue enameled "speckleware" or graniteware. It adds a kind of pioneer or Old West ambiance and it is easy to clean and pretty darn sturdy. If you want REALLY sturdy, go for stainless steel plates or even cafeteria trays. We've tried both stainless steel and plastic cafeteria trays. I like the stainless steel ones best -- they're stronger and don't flex or break. The cafeteria trays are especially handy for potluck dinners and make a good platform for eating around the campfire. Resting a wide tray on your lap is a lot easier than balancing a skinny plate. Again, they are easy to clean and practically indestructable. I have cups and bowls to match both my speckleware and stainless steel plates and trays. A speckleware coffee pot is a good way to heat water on the campfire for hot beverages.
Fancy dinnerware usually isn't necessary or even desirable for camping activities, but you may have a special occasion now like an anniversary or special birthday when you want to dress things up a bit. China plates, bowls, and cups may not survive the vibration and bouncing in RV cupboards or tent camping transport tubs without special packing. Variations of plastic or Melmac dinnerware can be quite attractive and aren't as heavy or as+ fragile as china. Personally, I'll stick with my favorite speckleware or stainless steel dinnerware, but I do have some fancy acrylic glasses that can really dress up a table when wanted and yet are nearly unbreakable. Some of them look almost as good as real crystal, even though they lack the resonance. And, compared to paper cups, they're down right elegant!
Disposable plastic flatware also helps avoid the need for doing dishes. If you want dressy stuff for a special occasion, there are really nice clear plastic and even shiny silver versions that are almost as nice as sterling silver, but for everyday use, ordinary plastic is cheaper and just as functional. Even so, I do keep a set of stainless steel flatware in my RV in case I run out of plastic or want something sturdier for a nice steak dinner. I find plastic flatware totally inadequate for steaks. Of course, there are different grades (and prices) of plasticware. I've seen forks so flimsy they melt when used on anything hot enough to eat but they're OK for baked beans, potato salad, and cake and ice cream at picnics.
Regardless of what kind of dinnerware you choose, you only need to bring along as much as you need for the number of people on that trip. No sense hauling around complete service for 8 when there is only two of you. When we camped regularly with 6 kids the service for 8 was necessary but now that we're retired, 3/4 of that stuff can stay at home most of the time, reducing weight and freeing up valuable space.
Paper table cloths, especially red and white checkered ones, are traditional on picnic tables. For a fancier dinner, use a lacy white paper or plastic table covering. Real cloth table cloths take up a lot of room and have to be taken home and laundered. Paper or plastic create an attractive, sanitary surface and can be disposed of after use. Plastic coated table cloths provide an easy to clean surface that invites multiple uses. Table cloths tend to blow up or even blow away when the breeze kicks up. Pick up a set of table cloth clamps or table cloth weights to secure your table cloth -- or make sure it is anchored by ice chests and "Round-a-bouts" or rocks.
Of course, if you REALLY want real china, crystal, and sterling silver for a special event, go ahead. Just take appropriate precautions packing it to survive the bumpy ride and allow enough time to wash it properly and re-pack it when you're done using it. You might even use real cloth table cloths and napkins to pack and pad the fragile items. Hey, you could even bring along some silver candlesticks to highlight the meal and add a romantic touch for special occasions. You might recall the elegant setting in the movie Hildalgo when the English lady invites Frank to tea in her tent. It rivaled service in any royal court. Of course she had servants to do all the heavy lifting.
Serving. At home you probably don't serve your meals right out of the pan, but when camping that makes perfect sense -- takes less time and there are fewer dishes to do. Condiments are most convenient served right out of the original containers. Lest you think that is too crass, that's the way they were served at Hearst Castle in its hay day entertaining high level politicians and celebrities. Have your dinner guests bring their plates to the camp fire or BBQ for their burgers or steaks instead of dirtying an extra plate just to bring them to the table. I like over-sized serving spoons. I found some speckleware serving spoons and forks I like to use. Of course, stainless steel utensils are sturdy and easy to clean and are ideal for camp use. Plastic versions may be less expensive, but might melt if used around the campfire and they don't stand up to the rather rambunctious use they often get around camp. You can usually find both plastic and stainless steel utensils at your local dollar store so they don't have to be expensive. Of course you can get professional grade utensils at a restaurant supply store that will most likely last forever -- if you don't lose them. Really nice ones sometimes have a tendency to be "acquired" by envious campers. I've found the dollar store versions quite adequate for camping and they're inexpensive to replace if they get lost or damaged..
Glassware is often too fragile for camping, but there are lots of acrylic and plastic options that are quite attractive and will survive travel better. You can also serve soft drinks and other beverages right out of the can or bottle, unless you need or prefer them over ice. Then you might use paper or plastic cups, which are convenient and save water and time you would spend washing permanent items. If you prefer something sturdier, plastic tumblers are lighter weight and less fragile than glass. Porcelain cups are often preferred for hot beverage, but again, they are fairly breakable. If you must use porcelain cups, be sure to store them safely where the sometimes violent maneuvers of travel won't break them. Stainless steel, tin, or enameled cups are sturdy and stand up better to the rigors of camping while adding a pioneer ambiance. They are sturdy and are easy to clean and store.
Sometimes you can avoid using any dinnerware at all. Simple hot dogs can be cooked over the campfire on a stick or wire coat hanger then slipped directly into a bun and garnished with your favorite condiments with out dirtying a single plate. Pre-packaged meals, like MREs and TV dinners, can be eaten directly from the disposable containers they come in which can then be disposed of in the trash or the campfire.
Some camp cook sets include plates, bowls, and cups. The plastic plates and cups are usually kind of light weight, sometimes even bordering on flimsy, but they are convenient and get the job done. These camp cook sets can conserve weight and space in your RV or camp set. They are usually designed so everything stacks together for storage and transport and usually come in a carry bag.
Military mess kits are designed for field use and so are ideal for camping. Boy Scout and other camp mess kits are usually lighter weight and less durable but quite convenient, functional, and reasonably priced. You can get mess kits at military surplus stores and in most camping departments. A one-person mess kit is usually well under $10. Military kits are usually made of stainless steel while camping kits are often made of aluminum. The stainless steel will hold up better but will be heavier if you are back packing or have to carry it very far.
The right dinnerware will be fun and easy to use, durable, and easy to clean and store. It may even be festive, like the cowboy themed enameled set I inherited from my Grandfather.
Eat up!
There may be times when paper plates won't cut it. Sometimes they're too flimsy for hot, heavy foods like steaks and baked potatoes or maybe you just feel like being a little fancier. Buffet style potluck dinners may demand larger and sturdier items. Y ou may be able to solve the flimsy problem by using plastic or wicker paper plate holders. I like the plastic ones that have a built in groove on the bottom that grips the rim of a soda can, making the can a convenient handle to hold the plate and keep track of my drink. The brand is Loc-a-plate but I think they are no longer being manufactured. If you happen to come on some anywhere, snag them up while you can! My favorite permanent camp dinnerware is the blue enameled "speckleware" or graniteware. It adds a kind of pioneer or Old West ambiance and it is easy to clean and pretty darn sturdy. If you want REALLY sturdy, go for stainless steel plates or even cafeteria trays. We've tried both stainless steel and plastic cafeteria trays. I like the stainless steel ones best -- they're stronger and don't flex or break. The cafeteria trays are especially handy for potluck dinners and make a good platform for eating around the campfire. Resting a wide tray on your lap is a lot easier than balancing a skinny plate. Again, they are easy to clean and practically indestructable. I have cups and bowls to match both my speckleware and stainless steel plates and trays. A speckleware coffee pot is a good way to heat water on the campfire for hot beverages.
Fancy dinnerware usually isn't necessary or even desirable for camping activities, but you may have a special occasion now like an anniversary or special birthday when you want to dress things up a bit. China plates, bowls, and cups may not survive the vibration and bouncing in RV cupboards or tent camping transport tubs without special packing. Variations of plastic or Melmac dinnerware can be quite attractive and aren't as heavy or as+ fragile as china. Personally, I'll stick with my favorite speckleware or stainless steel dinnerware, but I do have some fancy acrylic glasses that can really dress up a table when wanted and yet are nearly unbreakable. Some of them look almost as good as real crystal, even though they lack the resonance. And, compared to paper cups, they're down right elegant!
Disposable plastic flatware also helps avoid the need for doing dishes. If you want dressy stuff for a special occasion, there are really nice clear plastic and even shiny silver versions that are almost as nice as sterling silver, but for everyday use, ordinary plastic is cheaper and just as functional. Even so, I do keep a set of stainless steel flatware in my RV in case I run out of plastic or want something sturdier for a nice steak dinner. I find plastic flatware totally inadequate for steaks. Of course, there are different grades (and prices) of plasticware. I've seen forks so flimsy they melt when used on anything hot enough to eat but they're OK for baked beans, potato salad, and cake and ice cream at picnics.
Regardless of what kind of dinnerware you choose, you only need to bring along as much as you need for the number of people on that trip. No sense hauling around complete service for 8 when there is only two of you. When we camped regularly with 6 kids the service for 8 was necessary but now that we're retired, 3/4 of that stuff can stay at home most of the time, reducing weight and freeing up valuable space.
Paper table cloths, especially red and white checkered ones, are traditional on picnic tables. For a fancier dinner, use a lacy white paper or plastic table covering. Real cloth table cloths take up a lot of room and have to be taken home and laundered. Paper or plastic create an attractive, sanitary surface and can be disposed of after use. Plastic coated table cloths provide an easy to clean surface that invites multiple uses. Table cloths tend to blow up or even blow away when the breeze kicks up. Pick up a set of table cloth clamps or table cloth weights to secure your table cloth -- or make sure it is anchored by ice chests and "Round-a-bouts" or rocks.
Of course, if you REALLY want real china, crystal, and sterling silver for a special event, go ahead. Just take appropriate precautions packing it to survive the bumpy ride and allow enough time to wash it properly and re-pack it when you're done using it. You might even use real cloth table cloths and napkins to pack and pad the fragile items. Hey, you could even bring along some silver candlesticks to highlight the meal and add a romantic touch for special occasions. You might recall the elegant setting in the movie Hildalgo when the English lady invites Frank to tea in her tent. It rivaled service in any royal court. Of course she had servants to do all the heavy lifting.
Serving. At home you probably don't serve your meals right out of the pan, but when camping that makes perfect sense -- takes less time and there are fewer dishes to do. Condiments are most convenient served right out of the original containers. Lest you think that is too crass, that's the way they were served at Hearst Castle in its hay day entertaining high level politicians and celebrities. Have your dinner guests bring their plates to the camp fire or BBQ for their burgers or steaks instead of dirtying an extra plate just to bring them to the table. I like over-sized serving spoons. I found some speckleware serving spoons and forks I like to use. Of course, stainless steel utensils are sturdy and easy to clean and are ideal for camp use. Plastic versions may be less expensive, but might melt if used around the campfire and they don't stand up to the rather rambunctious use they often get around camp. You can usually find both plastic and stainless steel utensils at your local dollar store so they don't have to be expensive. Of course you can get professional grade utensils at a restaurant supply store that will most likely last forever -- if you don't lose them. Really nice ones sometimes have a tendency to be "acquired" by envious campers. I've found the dollar store versions quite adequate for camping and they're inexpensive to replace if they get lost or damaged..
Glassware is often too fragile for camping, but there are lots of acrylic and plastic options that are quite attractive and will survive travel better. You can also serve soft drinks and other beverages right out of the can or bottle, unless you need or prefer them over ice. Then you might use paper or plastic cups, which are convenient and save water and time you would spend washing permanent items. If you prefer something sturdier, plastic tumblers are lighter weight and less fragile than glass. Porcelain cups are often preferred for hot beverage, but again, they are fairly breakable. If you must use porcelain cups, be sure to store them safely where the sometimes violent maneuvers of travel won't break them. Stainless steel, tin, or enameled cups are sturdy and stand up better to the rigors of camping while adding a pioneer ambiance. They are sturdy and are easy to clean and store.
Sometimes you can avoid using any dinnerware at all. Simple hot dogs can be cooked over the campfire on a stick or wire coat hanger then slipped directly into a bun and garnished with your favorite condiments with out dirtying a single plate. Pre-packaged meals, like MREs and TV dinners, can be eaten directly from the disposable containers they come in which can then be disposed of in the trash or the campfire.
Some camp cook sets include plates, bowls, and cups. The plastic plates and cups are usually kind of light weight, sometimes even bordering on flimsy, but they are convenient and get the job done. These camp cook sets can conserve weight and space in your RV or camp set. They are usually designed so everything stacks together for storage and transport and usually come in a carry bag.
Military mess kits are designed for field use and so are ideal for camping. Boy Scout and other camp mess kits are usually lighter weight and less durable but quite convenient, functional, and reasonably priced. You can get mess kits at military surplus stores and in most camping departments. A one-person mess kit is usually well under $10. Military kits are usually made of stainless steel while camping kits are often made of aluminum. The stainless steel will hold up better but will be heavier if you are back packing or have to carry it very far.
The right dinnerware will be fun and easy to use, durable, and easy to clean and store. It may even be festive, like the cowboy themed enameled set I inherited from my Grandfather.
Eat up!
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