Types of Tents

There are many types of tents to choose from.  What you choose will depend on price, weight, how many people you need to shelter, climate, and how and where you plan to use them.  You can often get very good deals on used tents.  People may purchase them and then not use them or may upgrade to an RV or switch to a different tent.  Either way, you may get a bargain price if you shop around carefully.  Sometimes their family outgrows a tent or as kids leave home they may choose to downsize.  Check your local classified ads, garage sales, thrift stores, and web sites like ebay and craigslist.   Don't fall for bargain prices without checking out the merchandise.   Price alone doesn't ensure a good value.  Getting a great deal on a spectacular 1-man dome tent may be a total waste of money if what you need is a family tent.   Likewise, a low price on a big family tent may result in little use if you only need a 1 or 2 man dome for your needs.   The big tent will just be a burden to transport and set up and may be too big for you to keep  warm.  Prices that are too low may indicate there are serious problems with the tent.  It may be worth it if all it needs are some simple repairs and cleaning that you are willing and able to take care of.  Minor tears or damaged stake loops are pretty easy to fix.   Missing poles may be easy and not too expensive to replace, depending on the tent. Major damage, severe staining, foul odors, or lots of missing components should be avoided.  There will be plenty of other (and better) opportunities.  Those that are unsuitable for use may be a good source for parts IF they match what you already have AND have usable components you can use.

Single wall versus double wall tents.   Simple tents are usually single wall tents.  Double wall tents are those that have an external rain fly that covers the tent.  These are usually dome tents and the rain fly sits on top of the framework an inch or so above the inner tent wall.   Double wall tents may provide extra protection against rain, wind, and sunlight, and may help make it easier to control temperatures -- keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  The extra layer of fabric absorbs sunlight instead of  heating the air inside your tent in warm weather; the air gap between the tent and the rain fly acts much like the insulation in the walls of your home, helping retain whatever heat there is inside in cool weather.  It also keeps the wind from drawing the heat directly out of the tent.  Most rain flys end a few inches from the ground but some folks add skirts to extend them close to the ground to prevent drafts and block snow from blowing inside in winter weather.

One of the first things to consider when choosing a tent is the kind of climate in which it will be used.   A good 4-season tent can, as the name implies, be used year round.  They will usually be heavier -- and more expensive -- than summer tents.   If you plan to do any winter camping, choose a 4-season tent.   Look for one with a sturdy rain fly that comes down as close to the ground as possible.   Some people sew on a skirt to extend the rain fly almost to the ground.  This keeps snow from blowing up inside to the vents.   If you're only planning to be camping in fairly warm weather, a lighter, 3-season tent will be easier to transport, set up, and take down.  The added weight and cost of a 4-season tent will just be an unnecessary burden if you only use it in warmer weather.

Tent materials.  For many years, tents have been made of canvas.  Most heavy duty military tents are still made of canvas.  Some large family cabin tents and even personal pup tents are also often made of canvas.  It is waterproof and durable.  But it is also heavy.  The weight of canvas tents led to the introduction of tents made from lighter materials like rip-stop nylon.  These lighter tents aren't as sturdy or durable but are usually more than adequate for family camping.  In fact, nylon tents are even used by climbers of the highest peaks in the world in the most extreme conditions.  Light weight tents are favored by many campers because they are easy to carry, easy to set up, and take up less room during transport and storage.  Rip-stop fabrics are resistant to tears but are not rip proof.  A special weave pattern helps keep tears from spreading.   Light weight tent fabrics may be water proof or water resistant, depending on the chemical treatment they were given and the density of the weave. You may be able apply additional waterproofing from a spray can if your tent starts to leak.  The brand I'm most familiar with is Camp Dry.  It is a silicone waterproofing spray that can be used on tents, boots, jackets, backpacks etc.  It is clear and provides protection against stains as well as adding waterproofing.

How big a tent do you need?  The size you need will depend on how many people and how much gear it needs to house.  Unless you are back packing where weight is a major consideration, I would buy a tent a little larger than I think I need.  If you end up with more room than necessary, the only downside would be keeping it warm in cold weather.   But if your portable domicile is too small, you'll be constantly fighting for space.  A rule of thumb is to get a tent rated for about 1or 2 more persons than will be using it so you'll have room for equipment and maneuvering inside.  I had a 3-man dome tent that was perfect for me and one son.   A 6 person family tent is probably just about right for a family of 4.  Tent sizes are usually determined by how many people they are designed to sleep so using tents rated for an extra person or two gives you extra storage and living space that is usually well worth the extra weight and extra cost unless you have to carry it long distances or up steep slopes.

Dome tents are very popular because they are light weight and usually pretty easy to set up. Some are even "pop-up" tents that are self-erecting.  You just take them out of their bag and toss them into the air and poof!   Instant tent!  Dome tents are typically made of fairly light weight nylon or polyester material, supported by flexible fiberglass poles.   Even large 4-6 man dome tents can often be erected by one person.  Light weight and small size when packed make them attractive choices because they're easy to transport.  About the only downside to dome tents is they are not quite as sturdy for use in adverse weather conditions and the fabric is more susceptible to wear and tear than heavier canvas tents.  Dome tents are, however, often used by mountaineering expeditions in extreme weather because of their light weight and portability.  Dome tents are available in a variety of sizes, from small 1-man pop-up tents to huge, multi-room family tents.

Cabin tents are a more traditional style, usually made of heavy canvas.   They are very durable and usually quite roomy.   The usually have vertical walls and pitched roofs (like a cabin, hence the name).  Because of the weight and the somewhat bulky size when folded for storage or transportation, they are not as convenient for car camping or weekend outings as dome tents.   I had a used 11x14 cabin tent I used as a Scoutmaster.  I originally picked it up cheap to use as a portable garage on dirt bike outings so I wasn't too concerned about cosmetics.  With a little TLC is was fully functional for personal use.  My scouts nicknamed it "The Hotel".  Compared to their pup and individual dome tents, it was huge.  It was certainly convenient to have full head room and plenty of storage room on extended outings, but I could have never used it on any hikes, without a pack horse or OHV to carry it.   Cabin tents often have center poles to support the high pitched roof.  Some have external pole systems to avoid any obstructions inside the tent.  Large cabin tents are good for families or large groups in extended camping in a fixed location.   They are a good option for car camping and base camps.  The size and weight makes them poor choices for hiking or frequent changes in location.  I would not choose a cabin tent to take on a cross country road trip.

Umbrella tents typically have a trapezoidal profile, with sloping walls.  The "umbrella" description comes from the way the roof is supported.  Some have a single center pole, others have poles at each corner.  Size and weight are usually greater than a dome tent but sometimes less than that of cabin tents.  The peaked umbrella roof usually gives pretty good stand up head room in the center but limited height nearer the sloped walls.

Truck and SUV tents are available to fit most pick up trucks and SUVs.  Truck tents fit in the truck bed.  SUV tents attach to the side or back of the SUV.   Truck tents have the advantage of getting you up off the ground.   SUV tents usually are designed to allow you to make use of the flat cargo space in the back of your SUV for a safe and comfortable sleeping area while providing stand up room adjacent to the vehicle for dressing and other activities.

SUV tents are designed to fit on the back or side of popular SUVs, giving you the option of sleeping in the back of your SUV, yet have stand up dressing room.  They usually attach to the roof rack.  Another benefit of SUV tents is that they usually are more stable than stand alone tents since they are anchored to the vehicle.

Truck tents fit in the bed of  pickup.  They get you up off the ground on a level sleeping surface (if you've parked on the level).  The bed of the truck provides some additional protection against wind and rain.  Truck tents are usually designed so that the rain fly fits over the side of the bed so rain runs off onto the ground instead of under the tent.  They use the same type of free-standing poles as dome tents and you might be able to adapt a dome tent of the right size to work in the back of a truck, but for better fit, get a truck tent that fits the size of your pickup bed.

Roof tents are a unique kind of vehicle tent that mount on the roof or more commonly, the roof rack, of a vehicle.  They have the advantage of getting you up off the ground are so are especially good choices if you are camping where there are lots of bugs or other critters that might wriggle into your tent.  Its kind of like having your own private penthouse when camping!

Personal tents.  Personal tents may range from small backpacker tents that are little more than a sleeping bag cover to heavy canvas tents.  The U.S. Army typically issued a "shelter half" to each soldier.  The expectation was that two soldiers would combine their shelter halves to make one shared tent that would protect the two of them and their equipment.   Small, one-man "pup tents" are often used by boy scouts and other hikers who need individual shelter.   They typically are about 3' high and 3-4' wide.  They have a pole in the center at each end and are secured with stakes at each of the 4 corners and ropes from the top of each pole to the ground.   A pup tent is usually only adequate for a single person, but there are larger 2-man versions.  By the way, a 2-man pup tent does not come with 2 men or a pup.   In order to have enough space for gear, consider getting a tent that is rated for at least one more person than the number of people that will be using it.  I had a 3-man dome tent that worked very well for myself and one son and our gear for scout outings.  We found it a little too cozy when we squeezed 2 people into a 2-man tent.  Tube tents are an inexpensive variation of a pup tent.  They are often made of plastic.  They are typically supported by a rope along the top and secured with tent pegs at each corner.  Because they are cheap and light weight, they are frequently used by boy scouts and other novice campers.  The plastic is fully waterproof unless it gets torn, but it is even more susceptible to tears and campfire embers than a nylon or polyester tent.

What is the best tent?  The best tent will be the one that is right for you and your immediate needs. If you need an inexpensive tent for one person for a weekend, a cheap tube tent should be sufficient. If you need shelter for a family of 4-6 people, you're going to need a large family tent, probably one with multiple rooms.  If you're going to be hiking or moving around often, focus on tents that are light weight and compact when transporting and easy to set up and take down.  Cabin tents are good choices for base camps and extended stays in a single location.  If you you are getting a tent to serve as an emergency shelter for a disaster consider something that will be very durable and larger than you think you need.  You might find it more convenient and perhaps less expensive to purchase multiple smaller tents for a family instead of buying a big family tent.

Manufacturers keep improving their offerings.   I recently saw some beautiful tents that look almost like a Swiss chalet.   They're designed to sleep up to 10 people.  Another cool innovation are front porch tents, that essentially have a large screen room on the front of the tent.   Some tents have vestibules that serve as closets to store clothes and gear.   A tent with a vestibule around the entrance would be useful in cold weather to protect the entrance and avoid unnecessary heat loss when opening the inner door.  The overall trend is toward larger, lighter, stronger, more attractive tents.

Special considerations.   If you have back problems or any other disability that might make sleeping on the ground difficult or impossible, you'll need a tent with sufficient height to accommodate sleeping on cots.   If anyone in your group has allergies, take care to select a tent that doesn't aggravate them.  Because of unknown contaminations that might occur in used tents you might want to seek a new tent to minimze allergic reactions.   Alternatively, you might have a used tent professionally cleaned before using it.  As a precaution, any used items should be carefully vacuumed and wiped down with a mild disinfectant.  You might also want to refresh or supplement the waterproofing with a good spray waterproofing, available at most camping stores, especially after washing or cleaning the fabric.

Adverse weather conditions will make staying in just about any tent somewhat uncomfortable.   You can minimize the discomfort by choosing a tent that is designed for the type of weather you're going to be using it in.  Heavy canvas tents will offer more protection from wind, rain, and snow, than their lighter counterparts.  However, light weight dome tents are often used in extreme weather conditions, such as found in mountain climbing.   It is surprising how much protection even a thin nylon tent will provide.  Heavy canvas tents can often be fitted with stovepipe adapters to allow the use of wood, oil and gas stoves or other tent heaters.   For dome tents, propane or white gas powered catalytic heaters can be used to provide some warmth.   You will need to provide adequate ventilation whenever using any kind of stove or heater or gas powered lantern in a tent.   Some will give off toxic fumes. Even catalytic heaters that don't give off toxic fumes will consume oxygen so you need adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate.

Rain flys.  Many tents, especially dome tents, are equipped with rain flys.  Theses are an extra piece of fabric usually not sewn to the tent, that covers the tent.  It allows rain to run off without coming in contact with the internal tent itself, keeping it dryer inside -- and cooler in warm weather and warmer in cool weather. The sleeves for the poles on dome tents are often over the outside of the tent, extending a few inches above the tent fabric.   This keeps the fly from coming in direct contact with the tent itself so water doesn't wick through to the inside of the tent.  The air space between the tent and the rain fly may also provide some insulation to better maintain desired temperatures inside the tent. In winter it can help keep it warmer, in summer, it helps shade the tent from direct sunlight to reduce heat build up.   The extra layer can also mitigate unwanted light from disturbing your slumber. In extreme weather conditions you may want to rig you own rain fly using an ordinary tarp over a tent that doesn't come with one.  Try to avoid having the tarp in direct contact with the tent itself. Anywhere the tarp or rain fly contacts the tent may cause moisture to wick through to the interior. Any additional protection will extend the life of your tent and improve your control over the interior environment.  If you have a single wall tent you may be able to improvise a rain fly using a polytarp.  Try to rig it so it isn't in direct contact with the walls or ceiling of the tent itself.

Roof top tents are another variation of vehicle tents.   As the name implies, a roof top tent fits on the roof of a vehicle, usually an SUV with a larger flat roof.  Sometimes they have extensions with hard floors that reach out over the front, rear or side of the vehicle.   Panels can be added to enclose the space under the extension for additional closed living space.  Roof top tents can include insulation that makes them warmer than regular tents and thus they become truly four season tents.   One review I saw showed several SUVs with roof top tents parked in the snow.  Being up off the ground is appealing to a lot of people.  It keeps you off cold ground and away from insects, snakes, and varmints.  When stored they only add a few inches to the height of the vehicle.  When erected they provide a comfortable living space that doesn't require its own footprint on the ground.  You usually need a ladder to get in and out of them.  They are not cheap. Plan on spending $200 - $3500.  But they do have their advantages.  You don't have a trailer to tow but you do have comfortable, weather proof sleeping quarters.   They are usually self-erecting, using cranks and/or gas struts so set up is pretty fast and easy. See AutoHome Roof Top Tents for some examples.

Car tents are not new.  They have been around since the early days of the automobile.   Some early models were designed to travel on the running boards and made use of running boards as part of the support system for off-the-ground beds.  Here is an example: Shilling's Auto Camp.   Like modern SUV tents they attached to the roof of the car.   Often people would attach tents to both sides of the car, creating a two-bedroom car/tent arrangement.   Something called a Tentobed offered in-car sleeping.

Large military tents may be suitable for big groups camping in a fixed location for an extended period of time.  The size, weight, cost, and difficulty of transporting and erecting these huge tents severely limits their potential for individual or family use.  They are usually designed to be transported in big trucks and set up by a platoon.  Some smaller military tents may be adaptable for family base camps, but they're still usually heavier and bulkier than their commercial counterparts

Tipis have an appeal to anyone with a feeling for the Old West and/or Native American culture. There are a few commercial versions available, but I've found them pretty costly.  You might make your own.  There are plenty of plans or instructions on the Internet for doing so.  You'll need a lot of long poles and a covering cut and sewn to the right shape.  In their original use, tipis were more or less permanent homes for the nomadic tribes in the western United States.   The high central peak could be opened to allow smoke from a campfire inside to escape.  Tipis are about the only tent that accommodates a fire inside.  American Indians transported their tee pees by dragging the poles behind their horses (or slaves).   In some cases, they only transported the covering and simply cut new poles when they arrived at their destination.  You'll need to consider whether the poles will fit in or on your truck or trailer.   The very high peak, steep walls, and opening at the top make having a fire inside more practical than it would be in a shallow tent.

Emergency makeshift tents can be made from tarps or even ponchos or plastic garbage bags.   You'll need some way to support and anchor the tent.   Support may come from poles or from a rope, cable. or stick between two trees or other uprights over which the tarp can be hung.  Lower edges will need to be staked down or secured to stakes or other anchors using ropes or bungee cords or heavy objects.  You will get the best level of protection if the sides go all the way to the ground, but sometimes a canopy to keep off rain or snow may be all that is needed.

Setting up your tent is at least as important as choosing the right tent to start with.  Choose a spot that is fairly level, preferable a little higher than surrounding ground so rain water and runoff won't puddle beneath the tent.  Take advantage of any available natural or man-made wind breaks if you can.   Use a good ground cloth.   I like to use one under and inside the tent to protect the floor from ground debris and moisture and from wear and tear from walking inside.  Be sure to erect the tent according to them manufacturer's instruction, with proper poles and stakes.   Don't over-tighten ropes or extendable poles.  You need the tent to be taut but not stressed.  Sometimes it is a good idea to dig a trench around the base of the tent to capture runoff and carry it away so it doesn't run under the tent but it isn't practical in all circumstances.  You won't want to dig a trench if you're set up on lawn or if the ground is rocky, really hard, or frozen.  To make your first outing in a new tent easier, try setting up at home a time or two before you take it out.  Some tents come from the factory with color-coded poles.  If yours didn't you might find it helpful to number or otherwise mark the connecting parts of the poles or framework to make setup in camp easier.  Colored plastic tape, permanent markers, or a touch of paint to identify matching ends of poles can save a lot of time. 

Pitch in!

Camp Menus

I should really have my wife writing this post.  Much of what goes into this article comes directly from her thoughtful meal planning of our outings.  Your camp menu will change depending on the type of camping you're doing.  When you're in an RV or "car camping" in a tent, you can pretty much eat much like you would at home but you need a little more planning.  After all, you can't usually just run to the store if you're out of something once you get to camp.  RV cooking facilities are a scaled down version of your home range and oven, so you may need to adjust portions and allow extra time for preparing multiple courses.  The big Thanksgiving turkey you roast at home probably won't fit it in your RV oven so you might have to cut it in half or cook two smaller birds.   Microwaves in big RVs are often full size and even the smaller ones are good for whipping up instant oatmeal or hot cocoa in the mornings.

Camp menu basics.  Camp menus should be a useful tool, not a rigid rule.  Some people like things to be spontaneous, but you still need to plan ahead enough to make sure you have enough ingredients to cover all the meals.  Use the KISS priciple: Keep It Simple Stupid.  Unless you REALLY have a need or desire for a particularly fancy meal, stick to simple foods that are fun, easy to prepare and easy to clean up after.   Plan meals that use standard, simple ingredients to avoid having to bring along too much stuff.  tandard, simple ingredients can be combined to make a variety of meals, keeping your camp menu interesting, easy, and healthy.

Menu planning.   In order to prepare for our desert dirt-bike trips, I set up a spreadsheet for planning the menu.  I set it up day by day and meal by meal.  I estimate the quantity of each item or ingredient per person and use a multiplier for the number of people on the trip to generate a shopping list via the spreadsheet.   That makes it effective for different trips with different numbers of people . Even without the generated shopping list, setting up a daily meal planner makes it easier to figure out what to eat and what provisions you'll need.  Menu planning doesn't mean you are OCD and using a spreadsheet  is not over kill -- it is simply a useful and flexible tool that makes planning and shopping easier.  We try to avoid duplication so meals don't get boring, but, on longer trips, repeating the same meals can conserve resources and preparation time.  Having the menu prepared in advance eliminates the "what do I fix for this meal" quandry and avoids unnecessary delays.  But having a pre-set menu doesn't have to be restrictive.  Use it as a guideline.   You can always swap meals around as circumstances change.   A sudden storm might dictate swapping the planned burgers or steak dinner prepared on the outdoor grill or campfire for hot chili from the microwave planned for another night.

Breakfast is said to be the most important meal of the day.  When camping, it is often all too easy to skip or skimp because we like to sleep in and we're anxious to get to our planned activities.   We usually compromised nutrition the first morning of a dirt bike outing in favor of convenience and fun, bringing donuts and either milk or orange juice for a quick start.  Try to plan on "real" breakfasts for other days.  Bacon and eggs is a pretty easy meal to fix and provides the protein you need for participating in activities that may be more strenuous than your daily grind.  The fragrance of bacon sizzling on a campfire is a good way to wake up and start the day.  Cold cereal is quick and easy. Instant oatmeal is nice on cooler mornings, even if you have to boil water over a campfire.   The microwave in your RV really makes it "instant", with each serving ready in about 1 minute.   Oatmeal especially hits the spot on cold or stormy days and it seems to "stick to your ribs" and satisfy your hunger and nutritional needs for several hours.  For camping I especially like the single serving envelopes which provide convenience and variety and don't spill.  They're a little more expensive than bulk packages but are a nice format for camping.   I've even found boxes of 3 packets at Dollar Tree so they don't have to be expensive -- 33 cents a serving is pretty darn cheap!   Pancakes are another camp favorite but they take a little more preparation and cleanup time.  You can cook them on your RV or camp stove or on a griddle on your BBQ or camp fire.  Waffles are a bit more of a challenge but are certainly doable.   If you have 120-volt power available, you can use an electric waffle baker like you do at home.  Or you might look for an old fashioned cast iron waffle maker you can use in the campfire or on your stove.  We've had success with both options.  You'd better really like waffles, because the electric waffle maker takes up a lot of room and that cast iron waffle baker is going to be heavy!  Cornmeal mush is an interesting alternative to ordinary breakfast cereals and lends a pioneer kind of ambiance.  Nothing special here. Just cook ordinary cornmeal like you would oatmeal and serve it with plenty of butter and honey.  If you're backpacking, you'll be more limited in your choices and will probably lean toward dehydrated meals to minimize weight.  Sometimes you might be able to supplement your packaged meals with fresh caught fish.  Powdered eggs and powdered milk have come a long way since the tasteless versions made infamous in World War II movies.  You don't have to have electricity to enjoy toast at breakfast.  There are simple and inexpensive campfire/camp stove toasters.  They usually consist of a metal frame that holds the bread. For campfire use you should set them up on a cast iron grill or skillet.  You might get away with using them directly over the burners on a camp stove, but to avoid adding the taste of burning gas to your toast, it is better to use a pan there too.   In any case, putting them in some kind of pan helps to avoid having your toast burst into flames if you aren't keeping a constant eye on them.  For a more rustic approach, put your bread on a stick and toast it over the campfire like you would hotdogs or marshmallows.

Lunch in camp should be fast, easy, and fairly light.  You don't want to tank up on a lot of heavy food before embarking on your afternoon adventure.   For summer, focus on cool lunches.  Cold cuts and other deli type sandwiches are quick and easy.  For cooler outings you might want some hot lunch.   Hot dogs are quick and easy.  Hot dogs are best when roasted over the campfire but can be done on your BBQ, fried up on your camp or RV stove, microwaved, or boiled.  I prefer mine roasted so I usually only use boiling when I have to feed a large group because I can get a lot of dogs ready all at one time.  Add some chips, some canned beans, and some potato or macaroni salad, and you've got a pretty complete meal in minutes.   Green salads are a light and nutritious meal but often require a lot of extra provisions and/or preparation time.  To jump start the process, buy pre-packaged salad greens at the grocery store.  Then all you have to do is dump some in a bowl and add dressing.  I recall the punch line of an old TV commercial for salad dressing: "Without Wishbone, a salad is just a bowl of wet vegetables", but I've found salads without dressing are pretty sweet tasting as well as healthier.  If you're planning salads, bring along a variety of dressings (if you have room) to satisfy the tastes all your eaters.  Lunches in camp lend themselves well to paper plates and buffet-style serving, further minimizing setup and cleanup time.   It is a good time to relax in your favorite camp chair under your awning and rest up for the afternoon's activities.  The less time you spend preparing and cleaning up, the more time you have to relax or enjoy your scheduled activities.  Small, plastic containers are the most convenient for camping. For long-term savings, buy larger sizes you can store at home and refill your smaller plastic containers for each trip.

Dinner is usually the heaviest and most formal meal of the day.  We like a good hot meal at the end of the day, even in summer time.  But it doesn't have to be fancy. Hamburgers are one of the staples of our desert outings.  For colder evenings, my wife makes a wonderfully sweet chili we call "Marilyn's Marvelous Mojave Mild Chili".  We often make it with ground turkey instead of ground beef for a lighter and maybe healthier version.  Top it with shredded cheese and serve it with "Scoops" corn chips or French bread.   Our preferred beverage with chili is milk.  A nice feature of home made chili is you can season it to your particular taste.   We like ours with a healthy dose of brown sugar in it!  Canned chili is convenient, but I find it often has a bit of a metallic taste I don't particularly care for.  Beef stew is another good choice for cooler nights. It is easy to prepare and tastes great after a day of vigorous activity. I usually cheat and use canned stew, but home-made stew simmered over the campfire is an especially delicious treat -- if you have time to put it together.  A Dutch oven is also a good way to simmer stew or chili or prepare other main courses and even deserts.  I like to think of the Dutch oven as the pioneer version of a crock pot. Sometimes we like to splurge and have steak and baked potatoes.  Such a meal makes you feel like royalty.   Both the steaks and the potatoes can be cooked using your camp or RV stove, BBQ, or campfire.  While broiling steaks on the campfire can be fun and provide a rewarding challenge, I like to use a portable propane powered BBQ, just because it is easy and usually faster and I have more control.  The potatoes can be done in foil in the campfire or on the BBQ or in your RV or camp stove oven or microwave (without the foil!).  Coleman makes an oven that fits on their camp stoves that works pretty well for most baking tasks.   It folds flat for storage and transport so it takes up little space and is a good option when car camping.  Hobo stew is another perennial favorite.  Wrap your favorite meat and vegetables in foil, season to taste, and cook them in the campfire or on the BBQ. When RV camping we like to pre-cook the meat and potatoes in the microwave to speed up the process. For tent outings we often pre-cook the meat and potatoes at home before preparing the foil packets to take along.  Pre-cooking the other veggies usually makes them mushy so, unless you LIKE mushy vegetables, just let them cook in the campfire.

Grilled veggies are not common fare the U.S., but it is an easy and healthy way to fix them.  Go easy on the oil and don't over cook them.   Unless there is some reason you need or like them mushy, they should remain crisp.   Sometimes this is a fun way to get kids to eat their vegetables when they turn up their noses at traditional canned or frozen versions.  I have never like canned peas very well.

Snacks are perhaps more important than you realize.  Most of us extend ourselves a bit more than usual when we're camping and that requires more calories and you'll probably get the munchies long before dinner.  So snacks are more than just a luxury or indulgence.  Appropriate snacks will stave off hunger and help prevent you from over-eating at mealtime while providing timely energy for your activities.  They should be a part of your planned nutrition for outdoor activities.   In warm weather or for any kind of strenuous activities you'll need extra fluids and electrolytes so include plenty of sports drinks.   It is best to get your calories at regular intervals rather than wait several hours between meals.   As long as you don't pig out, you can probably enjoy just about any favorite snack without too much impact on your waistline.  After all, you're probably burning more calories than usual.  Of course to maintain a healthier approach, have some fresh fruit, but a few cookies and a glass of milk or a favorite candy bar or granola bar can fill that empty spot without completely ruining your diet. On hot summer days you may want to go for Popsicles or snow cones.   Not a lot of nutrition there, but they're cool and refreshing and have plenty of sugar for quick energy.  They will also provide some fluid too, but you'll still need to supplement it with sport drinks and plenty of water.   Ice cream treats are nice on warm days -- if you have a working freezer in you RV fridge or a really good ice chest.   On cooler afternoons a cup of hot cocoa or other hot beverage might be more appealing, but remember caffeine accelerates dehydration which can still be a problem in cool or cold weather.  We also enjoy a warm dip made from chili and cream cheese and served with Scoops or tortilla chips around the campfire on cool evenings.   Individually packaged pies and snack cakes are a convenient and tasty treat.  Keep an eye out for special sales at your local grocery store or stock up when McDonalds has pies 2 for $1.00.  You might freeze them to keep them fresh and then either microwave them or set them out in the sun to warm them up when you get to camp. You might even heat them over the campfire.  We also like to make fresh pies using campfire pie cookers. All you need is some bread and pie filling (and the pie cookers!).   Everyone can have their individual pies with their favorite filling and cooked just the way they like them.  These warm, home made treats are especially welcome when its cold outside.

Basic provisions.  In addition to specific ingredients for planned meals, it is good to have some basic provisions in your RV or camp kit. Ours includes flour, sugar, salt, pepper, cinnamon, season salt, pancake mix, syrup, cooking oil, honey, and a variety of favorite spices.  Add whatever other spices your use regularly.  Having basic provisions on hand allows you to add variety to your planned menu and could provide extra meals if your stay gets extended or you have unexpected guests.  I keep a variety of canned goods on board for emergencies -- soups, stew, chili, and tuna, but be careful that you don't end up carrying around a whole lot of extra weight you don't need and never use.

MREs and dehydrated food.  Military Meals Read To Eat (MREs) and dehydrated foods are often marketed for camping.   Dehydrated foods are a pretty good option for back packing where you want to minimize the amount of weight you are carrying and where you expect to have plenty of water along the way to reconstitute the meals.  MREs are just plain pricey, but they're convenient and have a long shelf life.   I don't think you'll save much weight carrying dehydrated foods in your RV.  You'll have to bring along enough water to prepare them.  Dehydrated foods are kind of expensive and, for most people, not all that appetizing.  They taste pretty darn good after a day's hiking, but in your RV or even when car camping, you'll probably enjoy canned or frozen foods more.

Sample Camp Menu.  Here is a sample menu typical of our 3-day dirt biking trips to the Mojave Desert.

Day 1 Breakfast      Donuts, milk                                                                                                                            Lunch           Hot Dogs, chips, soda                                                                                                                Dinner        Beef Stew

Day 2 Breakfast      Cold cereal, milk, orange juice                                                                                   

           Lunch           Cold cut sandwiches, chips, soda

          Dinner           Chili

Day 3 Breakfast      Pankcakes, eggs orange juice

          Lunch           Tuna sandwiches, chips, soda

          Dinner          Hamburgers,chips, soda

This gives us some options yet is built around a minimum of supplies and ingredients.  If you want something a little fancier, substitute steak for chili or hamburgers.

In summary, plan your menu ahead of time and keep it simple.  Focus on meals and snacks appropriate to the season and the activity.

Bon appetite!

Spring Cleaning

Today is March 21 -- the official First Day of Spring in the northern hemisphere.  Most places with 4 distinct seasons are (hopefully) shaking off winter.   Signs of spring are popping up.  The grass is getting green, leaves are budding out on trees, robins have returned.  That also means it is time to start preparing your RV and camping equipment for a new season of family fun.  I find getting my equipment ready for camping is welcome outlet from months of being cooped up inside during winter weather.   Its not as much fun as camping, but the anticipation of what is coming creates a lot of excitement -- and a fair amount of stress release.

RVs have often been idle all winter and need preparation for the upcoming camping season.  Start by inspecting the outside of your unit.  If it has been outdoors, be sure to check the roof for any damage that might have been caused by falling limbs or other airborne debris during storms.  Give it a good washing and check for loose panels or fasteners.  Check for leaks in the roof and around doors and windows.  Check your tires.  If they are more than a few years old, they may have developed sidewall cracks.  Check the inflation pressure.  Some loss of pressure over time is normal so you'll probably need to inflate them to the proper pressure before driving.  Check the vehicle specifications. If not available, inflate to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall.  Never exceed the maximum sidewall pressure, even if the tire looks low. T emperature swings during the winter months cause flexing of body panels and windows which can sometimes lead to cracks or separations and you'll want to identify and correct any such problems before you hit the road.  Be sure to check your batteries, propane system, and belts and hoses.  Rubber components can dry out and weaken or crack during storage.   Test them NOW so you don't have an unfortunate incident out on the road or get stranded in some remote camp ground.  Check radiator and heater hoses visually and by squeezing them.  Hoses should be flexible but not squishy.  Tighten all hose clamps.  In addition for looking for leaks or cracks, squeeze the hoses.  Hoses should be pliable.  Hoses that are brittle or squishy should be replaced.  You can test exposed portions of the propane system for leaks by spraying a solution of soapy water on any connections you can see.   If bubbles appear, there is a leak that needs to be fixed before lighting any appliances.  The size and speed with which the bubbles form is an indicator of the size of the leak.  You may be able to tighten loose connections, but take care not to over-tighten them, which can cause further damage.  Other leaks will need professional repairs.   Propane systems sometimes accumulate moisture which can lead to freeze damage in cold climates.  Be sure to test all your appliances to make sure they are functioning properly.  Problems with individual appliances may be debris or incest webs or nests in burners or vents that need to cleaned out or failure of a component, such as the computer control board or the thermocouple.  Winter temperature changes may tweak components out of alignment so make sure the burner is adjusted properly. I f nothing works right, you may be out of propane or lines or the regulator may be damaged.  Moisture in the system sometimes condenses and freezes in the regulator or in low-lying loops of the lines.  Of course you'll want to make sure the main valve is turned on and you have propane in the tank before calling a technician.

Clean all the outside lights and check them for proper operation.   It is not unusual for the ground connections on lights to corrode over the winter.  You may need to clean the ground connections. Look for black wires, usually about #12 guage, that are connected to some metal frame component. The screws may be loose or the connector may be corroded.  Sometimes the base of the bulbs also corrode.  Cleaning them may get them working.   If not, you may have to replace the bulbs.   Corroded sockets or fixtures may need to replaced.  Replace any missing or damaged lenses.   Proper functioning of lights is essential for safety -- and may avoid a "fix it" ticket.

Awnings should be unrolled and examined.  Clean any dirt or mildew that has accumulated over the winter.  Even if you made sure it was dry when you last rolled it up, humidity may have condensed on the fabric during temperature swings over the winter.  If any of the mechanism is stiff or sticky, clean and lubricate it.  If any of the arms or supports are bent you might try to gently straighten them.   To do this successfully you may have to remove them and lay them out on a flat surface.  If they can't be straightened successfully, replace them as soon as possible.  Bent arms will lead to further problems that will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the initial damaged component.   If cleaning and lubricating all moving parts doesn't get things moving right, have it checked out by an RV technician.   Damaged components will interfere with normal operation and may lead to serious malfunctions and permanent damage to the awning and/or the RV itself if the awning comes loose during travel.

Interior preparations.   RVs in storage are attractive homes for insects and vermin during winter months, so check inside your exterior storage cabinets and throughout the interior for any evidence of their presence.  Remove spider webs, brush or vacuum dust and debris from the refrigerator vents, inspect and, if necessary clear and clean furnace vents and the burners in refrigerators and water heaters.  If you find rodent droppings in your RV, clean them up right away and set some traps.   To prevent rodents from taking up residence I usually put some D-con poison in my RV over the winter. Remove bedding and vacuum the mattress.  Wash the bedding before reinstalling it.  Even if you haven't used the beds, dust will have accumulated and humidity may have infiltrated below the surface and provided an environment for bacteria growth that may not be obvious.   Having fresh bedding will make slipping between the sheets a real pleasure that first night in camp.  Even if the bedding appears clean and smells OK, it may not remain so pleasant to use.   Sweat may release dormant odors that accumulated over the winter.  Check all your interior lights and 12-volt appliances (like fans and radios) for proper operation and make repairs as necessary.  This is also a good time to clean all of the lenses on the lights.   Check the batteries in clocks and smoke detectors.  Replace any that are weak.

Provisions need to be checked.  Anything that froze over the winter will probably need to be tossed out and replaced.  Be sure to check the expiration dates on all edibles and medicines as well and get rid of outdated items.  Any containers that are bulging or leaking should be discarded and replaced. Things like lotions, shampoos and liquid soaps may have separated.  Sometimes you can reclaim them by shaking them, but if they have an unusual odor or will not regain their original consistency and color, replace them.   Far better to spend a few extra $ and be confident of your supplies when you need them.   Things like sun screens and insect repellants will lose much of their effectiveness if they've been frozen or are too old so you should get fresh ones each season.

Cabinets, closets, drawers, and storage tubs all need to be inspected, cleaned and organized. Inventory and inspect contents.  Repair or replace damaged items.   Discard and replace outdated medical supplies and food items.  Remove unnecessary clutter, and put things back where they belong so you'll be able to find them when you need them on your outings.

Camp clothing you may have stored in your RV or or tent camping tubs should be inventoried. It may need to be cleaned or repaired.   Consider the appropriateness of your wardrobe.  You may have accumulated heavy winter clothing you won't need again for many months and may need to substitute articles more suitable for spring and summer activities before you venture out.

De-winterize your water systems.   You should delay this step until you are certain you won't get any more freezing weather.   However, I would try to schedule it at least a week before any planned outings.  That will give you time to make an repairs that may be need and for any residual chlorine from sanitizing the fresh water tank to dissipate.  When it is time to de-winterize your fresh water system, fill the fresh water tank about half full and flush all the lines until all the pink RV antifreeze has cleared.  Re-set the bypass valves on the water heater and fill the water heater and test it.    If the water has an unpleasant odor, add about a half cup of ordinary household bleach to the fresh water tank and then either drive the unit to mix it in or add more water to stir things up.  Then flush the lines until you can smell the chlorine at each fixture.   Let it sit for a few hours, then drain the tank completely, re-fill and flush the lines with clean water until the chlorine smell is gone.   If you have trouble getting rid of the chlorine smell, you may have used too much bleach.   Add about cup of baking soda to the fresh water tank, drive your RV to mix it up, then flush it through all lines and fixtures and let it sit for a few hours.  You should then be able to drain the tank and flush the lines and have fresh, clean-smelling water throughout your RV.   If you have any doubts about water quality purchase some fresh water treatment from your favorite RV supply store and add it to perk things up a bit before your next trip.  Be sure to inspect your water system for leaks or any unexpected freeze damage.  Even though I meticulously winterize my RVs, I've twice had the outside shower controls freeze up and crack.   Obviously I didn't get enough antifreeze into them.  Water won't care about your good intentions.   It will simply obey the laws of physics and expand when it freezes, often breaking pipes or fixtures.  Depending on how much water you flushed into the holding tanks you may need to add more be be able to flush them.  They should be at least half full for proper flushing. Dump and flush the tanks and add chemicals as usual.  Clean and service the air conditioners.   Older roof air conditioners may need lubrication.   Newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated.  For older unis, a few drops of motor oil in the oil ports on the motor should do the trick.  Clean the fins on the condenser (outside) and the filters (inside).  Most filters are made of foam and can be easily removed and hand washed with soap and water.  Rinse them thoroughly and squeeze out any excess water.  You may want to lay them on a paper towel to dry before re-installing them.

Appliances.  Check all your appliances to ensure they are proper working order and adjusted correctly.   Propane attracts certain spiders so burners on furnaces, water heaters, and refrigerators may have accumulated webs and nests that will interfere with proper operation.  Don't forget your portable BBQ, camp stove, and lanterns.  Fire up your generator and test the microwave.   Test all your electronic equipment (radios, TVs, media players, etc).

Tent camping may not have all the complex systems of an RV for winterizing and spring cleaning, but there are certain tasks you should do in preparation for the new season.  Insects and vermin may have found their way into your stored equipment, even into plastic tubs, so take everything out and clean and inspect it.  This is also a good time to make an repairs that might have been missed when the equipment was stored.  Take inventory of your tools and supplies.  Repair or replace any damaged or missing equipment and get rid of exhausted or outdated supplies.  Winter temperatures or just age may have affected foods, medicine, and cleaning supplies, so check them carefully and replace anything that looks or smells suspicious.  Sharpen axes and knives.  Make sure all tools and utensils are clean and properly stored where you'll need them.  Sometimes moisture may have made its way into stored tents or sleeping bags.   They may be just damp, but often they may have begun to mildew.   At the very least you'll need to hang them out to dry.   Mildew can be treated with anti-mildew sprays.   If they are badly soiled, stained, or smelly, take the to the dry cleaners to be cleaned. When the items are thoroughly dry and any needed repairs have been made they can be rolled back up.   Be sure to inspect tent pegs and poles.  Replace any damaged items.  Your tent pegs should have been cleaned before they were put away.  If they were not, clean them now and check for corrosion that might have weakened them over the winter.   Replace any that have been weakened by rust, corrosion, or other damage.  Even clean metal pegs may rust due to humidity, so make sure none are weakened.  They won't do you much good if they bend when you try to pound them in or snap off and let your tent blow over.  Fire up your camp stove and lantern and make sure they are adjusted correctly and functioning properly.  If they're not, now is the time to make repairs and adjustments. Service your camp stove and lantern.  Make sure the pump seals are soft and working.  Test them to see if the generators need to be replaced.  Be sure to clean all the openings in the stove burners.  They do tend to get clogged up from spills during normal use. If you use a portable 120-volt generator, give it a complete checkout -- change the oil and oil, fuel, and air filters. Give it a test run to make sure it is adjusted right.

Go over your regular pre-trip checklist to be sure everything is ship shape for your first outing. Even though that first outing may be a few weeks away, checking everything out now will give you time to take care of any repairs, replacements, or additions you need to make.

Tools.   Go through all your tools.  Make sure nothing is missing or out of place.   Clean every item so it is free from grease, dirt, and rust.  Repair or replace any damaged tools.  Take inventory and see if you need to add any items.  Was there anything you needed last season that you didn't have?  Did any of your fellow campers have new tools last year you don't have that would be of benefit to you? As you put them away, make sure they are neatly organized and easy to access.   Just dumping everything into a canvas bag isn't very useful.  You'd probably be better off leaving it all at home and reducing your rolling weight than having a jumble of stuff you won't be able to conveniently use and probably won't be able to find what you need when you need it.

If you are an OHV or personal water craft rider, now is also the time to get your ride and gear ready for the upcoming season.  After a winter in storage, your equipment will need a good cleaning and you'll want to perform routine lubrication and adjustments to make sure everything is ready to go.  You may want to drain and replace the fuel, especially if you didn't add any preservatives before storage.  Oil and filters should be changed.  Even without use, the winter temperature changes and humidity may have introduced moisture or caused additives to breakdown. An oil and filter change is a lot less expensive than rebuilding an engine damage by poor lubrication! Check out your gear to make sure insects or vermin haven't taken up residence or otherwise damaged it.   Inventory and inspect your tools and supplies.  Replace any used up, damaged, or missing items.

Inventory time.   Now is a good time to go through your camping bins or your RV closets, cabinets, and drawers, and do a complete inventory.   Check to see if anything is missing or out of place.  Check expiration dates on foodstuffs and medical supplies.  Examine gear and equipment for any needed repairs.  You want everything to be in A-number-one condition when you hit the road soon.

If you've spent a lot of time "hibernating" you may need to do some personal tuneup as well.   Between the Holiday feasting and  being confined to the sofa or computer desk for several months, your body probably needs a little exercise to get you prepared for the upcoming camping season.  Start off easy and work your way to to more strenuous sessions to avoid unnecessary pain and possible injury.

Clean up!

RV Dealers

RV Dealers are sometimes rolled into the same category as used car salesmen.  However, any really reputable dealer is going to be more interested in helping you find the right RV at the right price than in making a fast sale.  You may encounter high pressure tactics in some places.  After all, most salesmen work on commission and need the sales to make a living.  But a good salesman will know he's better off helping you make the right decision than pushing you into something you'll regret just to pad his next paycheck.  He or she will be focused on the long term instead of the short term.   If you're happy with your purchase, you're likely to return when you outgrow your RV or are ready for an upgrade and you'll probably tell your friends and bring him more business.   If he pushes you to buy something you won't be happy with, you are likely to go elsewhere for your next purchase and will probably not refer your friends if not dissuade your friends from ever coming in.  To me, high pressure tactics are an immediate indicator to look somewhere else.   Reputable dealers can be a tremendous help when you're looking to buy an RV.  They know the market and can guide you in finding the unit that fits your needs and your budget.  You may pay a little more from a dealer because he has to pay his salesmen, cover any reconditioning he has done and set aside an allowance for any needed warranty work.  In many cases, meeting his price is well worth it.  It can add peace of mind and may actually save you money in he long run.

Finding a really reputable dealer involves more than just checking out the Yellow Pages or doing a simple Google search.  Check the Internet for any feedback from other customers.  Check your local Better Business Bureau.  Any business may get complaints, but a very strong indicator of the character of the business and the owner is how they handle problems.  Briefly check out the used inventory.  It should be clean and attractively displayed.  A good dealer is going to wholesale unusable units and detail good ones so they show well.  Check out the service department if you can. Mechanics should be properly certified.  Certifications are usually clearly displayed in an area where customers can easily view them.  The service bays should be clean and well organized.  You might get a low price buying an RV from a used car lot, but if they don't specialize in used RVs, it is unlikely they have the experience or knowledge to provide good advice, proper inspection and reconditioning, or adequate warranty service.

Beware of unusually low prices.   I remember a sign at one store that read "We have no problem with those who sell for less. They know what their products are worth."  You can expect to pay more for a used RV from a dealer than from a private party, but it may very well be worth it.  The dealer's price includes the salesman's commission, any re-conditioning that was required, and an allowance for any warranty offered.  In most states, any vehicle must pass minimum safety requirements before a dealer can offer it for sale.   Other re-conditioning may reduce the amount of repairs, upgrades, or other TLC the dealer has done that otherwise you may have to do when you get it home.  Private parties are not bound by the laws affecting retailers so you could end up with serious safety issues if you don't have any private party purchase checked by a competent mechanic and/or technician before you buy.   For your own comfort you may want to have your mechanic check out ANY used vehicle, even if you are buying it from a dealer.  If you find an exceptionally good price on a unit you are interested in buying, don't be afraid to ask why the price is so low.  Perhaps it is a consignment vehicle and the owner needs a quick sale due to a medical or financial emergency.  Perhaps the dealer obtained it at at good price through an estate sale or as a repossession.  Perhaps it was advertised as a "loss leader" -- merchants will sometimes offer certain products below their cost just to lure customers into the store, hoping to make it up on sales of other items.   If there is no legitimate reason for the reduced price, it may be because there is some hidden underlying problem that is too expensive for the dealer to repair.  Sometimes you can make out on such a unit, IF you are aware or the issue(s) and you are prepared to take care of the repairs yourself and the price leaves you enough to compensate for the work that needs to be done.

"Special sale prices" are often worth checking out.  Dealers may offer one or more units as "loss leaders" to bring people into the dealership.  They will, of course, try to steer you to higher priced vehicles, but once they have advertised a certain vehicle at a certain price, they are legally obligated to honor the offer.  They may try to up sell you on something better, but if you are satisfied with the sale unit, you may indeed get a good deal if you insist on buying it.  Some shady dealers may offer a sub-standard unit at ridiculously low prices knowing no one will want to buy it.   If you repeatedly find the specially priced unit has been sold before your get there or the "special" is just a piece of junk, the dealer might be running a false ad, which is worthy of both reporting to the Better Business Bureau and your Attorney General.   Legitimate dealers won't play those games.

Let's Make A Deal!

Camp Dinnerware

Camp dinnerware?  Yeah, right!   As if there is anything really to be said about it.  Well, actually, there is.  My all time favorite is paper plates, bowls, and cups.   I hate doing dishes when camping, either in my RV or in a tent.  While some eco-freaks will complain about the waste of natural resources, it isn't really as bad as they like to make it seem.  Using paper does consume some renewable resources, but consider the eco-impact of manufacturing, warehousing, shipping, and selling permanent dishes along with heating water and making and using detergents and disposing of the waste water.   The overall ecological footprint of disposable goods is actually rather favorable -- and it's more convenient and saves time, which are both significant advantages when camping .   A few years ago we had an eco-freak where I worked who was boycotting styrofoam cups and campaigning mightily for management to discontinue using them at the coffee machine -- until someone posted an article that described -- in accurate scientific detail -- the eco-impact of paper cups versus styrofoam.   While styrofoam cups are slow to deteriorate in land fills, it's manufacture and use has a LOT less impact on the environment and smaller overall carbon footprint than paper cups.  Net result: styrofoam wins!  Using disposable items is not frivolous or irresponsible.  It adds a great deal of convenience and saves a lot of time when camping, conserves propane and water, and reduces filling holding tanks,.

There may be times when paper plates won't cut it.  Sometimes they're too flimsy for hot, heavy foods like steaks and baked potatoes or maybe you just feel like being a little fancier.   Buffet style potluck dinners may demand larger and sturdier items. Y ou may be able to solve the flimsy problem by using plastic or wicker paper plate holders.  I like the plastic ones that have a built in groove on the bottom that grips the rim of a soda can, making the can a convenient handle to hold the plate and keep track of my drink.   The brand is Loc-a-plate but I think they are no longer being manufactured.  If  you happen to come on some anywhere, snag them up while you can!  My favorite permanent camp dinnerware is the blue enameled "speckleware" or graniteware.  It adds a kind of pioneer or Old West ambiance and it is easy to clean and pretty darn sturdy.  If you want REALLY sturdy, go for stainless steel plates or even cafeteria trays.  We've tried both stainless steel and plastic cafeteria trays.  I like the stainless steel ones best -- they're stronger and don't flex or break.  The cafeteria trays are especially handy for potluck dinners and make a good platform for eating around the campfire.   Resting a wide tray on your lap is a lot easier than balancing a skinny plate.   Again, they are easy to clean and practically indestructable.  I have cups and bowls to match both my speckleware and stainless steel plates and trays.  A speckleware coffee pot is a good way to heat water on the campfire for hot beverages.

Fancy dinnerware usually isn't necessary or even desirable for camping activities, but you may have a special occasion now like an anniversary or special birthday when you want to dress things up a bit.   China plates, bowls, and cups may not survive the vibration and bouncing in RV cupboards or tent camping transport tubs without special packing. Variations of plastic or Melmac dinnerware can be quite attractive and aren't as heavy or as+ fragile as china. Personally, I'll stick with my favorite speckleware or stainless steel dinnerware, but I do have some fancy acrylic glasses that can really dress up a table when wanted and yet are nearly unbreakable.  Some of them look almost as good as real crystal, even though they lack the resonance.  And, compared to paper cups, they're down right elegant!

Disposable plastic flatware also helps avoid the need for doing dishes.   If you want dressy stuff for a special occasion, there are really nice clear plastic and even shiny silver versions that are almost as nice as sterling silver, but for everyday use, ordinary plastic is cheaper and just as functional.  Even so, I do keep a set of stainless steel flatware in my RV in case I run out of plastic or want something sturdier for a nice steak dinner.  I find plastic flatware totally inadequate for steaks.  Of course, there are different grades (and prices) of plasticware.  I've seen forks so flimsy they melt when used on anything hot enough to eat but they're OK for baked beans, potato salad, and cake and ice cream at picnics.

Regardless of what kind of dinnerware you choose, you only need to bring along as much as you need for the number of people on that trip.   No sense hauling around complete service for 8 when there is only two of you.  When we camped regularly with 6 kids the service for 8 was necessary but now that we're retired, 3/4 of that stuff can stay at home most of the time, reducing weight and freeing up valuable space.

Paper table cloths, especially red and white checkered ones, are traditional on picnic tables.  For a fancier dinner, use a lacy white paper or plastic table covering.  Real cloth table cloths take up a lot of room and have to be taken home and laundered.  Paper or plastic create an attractive, sanitary surface and can be disposed of after use.  Plastic coated table cloths provide an easy to clean surface that invites multiple uses.  Table cloths tend to blow up or even blow away when the breeze kicks up.  Pick up a set of table cloth clamps or table cloth weights to secure your table cloth -- or make sure it is anchored by ice chests and "Round-a-bouts" or rocks.

Of course, if you REALLY want real china, crystal, and sterling silver for a special event, go ahead.   Just take appropriate precautions packing it to survive the bumpy ride and allow enough time to wash it properly and re-pack it when you're done using it.  You might even use real cloth table cloths and napkins to pack and pad the fragile items.  Hey, you could even bring along some silver candlesticks to highlight the meal and add a romantic touch for special occasions.  You might recall the elegant setting in the movie Hildalgo when the English lady invites Frank to tea in her tent.   It rivaled service in any royal court.   Of course she had servants to do all the heavy lifting.

Serving.  At home you probably don't serve your meals right out of the pan, but when camping that makes perfect sense -- takes less time and there are fewer dishes to do.  Condiments are most convenient served right out of the original containers.  Lest you think that is too crass, that's the way they were served at Hearst Castle in its hay day entertaining high level politicians and celebrities. Have your dinner guests bring their plates to the camp fire or BBQ for their burgers or steaks instead of dirtying an extra plate just to bring them to the table.  I like over-sized serving spoons.  I found some speckleware serving spoons and forks I like to use.  Of course, stainless steel utensils are sturdy and easy to clean and are ideal for camp use.   Plastic versions may be less expensive, but might melt if used around the campfire and they don't stand up to the rather rambunctious use they often get around camp.  You can usually find both plastic and stainless steel utensils at your local dollar store so they don't have to be expensive.  Of course you can get professional grade utensils at a restaurant supply store that will most likely last forever -- if you don't lose them.   Really nice ones sometimes have a tendency to be "acquired" by envious campers.   I've found the dollar store versions quite adequate for camping and they're inexpensive to replace if they get lost or damaged..

Glassware is often too fragile for camping, but there are lots of acrylic and plastic options that are quite attractive and will survive travel better.  You can also serve soft drinks and other beverages right out of the can or bottle, unless you need or prefer them over ice.   Then you might use paper or plastic cups, which are convenient and save water and time you would spend washing permanent items.  If you prefer something sturdier, plastic tumblers are lighter weight and less fragile than glass.  Porcelain cups are often preferred for hot beverage, but again, they are fairly breakable.  If you must use porcelain cups, be sure to store them safely where the sometimes violent maneuvers of travel won't break them.  Stainless steel, tin, or enameled cups are sturdy and stand up better to the rigors of camping while adding a pioneer ambiance.  They are sturdy and are easy to clean and store.

Sometimes you can avoid using any dinnerware at all.   Simple hot dogs can be cooked over the campfire on a stick or wire coat hanger then slipped directly into a bun and garnished with your favorite condiments with out dirtying a single plate.  Pre-packaged meals, like MREs and TV dinners, can be eaten directly from the disposable containers they come in which can then be disposed of in the trash or the campfire.

Some camp cook sets include plates, bowls, and cups.  The plastic plates and cups are usually kind of light weight, sometimes even bordering on flimsy, but they are convenient and get the job done.  These camp cook sets can conserve weight and space in your RV or camp set.  They are usually designed so everything stacks together for storage and transport and usually come in a carry bag.

Military mess kits are designed for field use and so are ideal for camping.  Boy Scout and other camp mess kits are usually lighter weight and less durable but quite convenient, functional, and reasonably priced.  You can get mess kits at military surplus stores and in most camping departments.  A one-person mess kit is usually well under $10.   Military kits are usually made of stainless steel while camping kits are often made of aluminum.   The stainless steel will hold up better but will be heavier if you are back packing or have to carry it very far.

The right dinnerware will be fun and easy to use, durable, and easy to clean and store.   It may even be festive, like the cowboy themed enameled set I inherited from my Grandfather.

Eat up!

Resolving Purchase Problems

Eventually you're going to have some kind of problems with one or more of your camping/RV/OHV purchases.   Most reputable dealers and retailers will take care of warranty issues quickly and satisfactorily.  They usually will do their best to address other complaints as well.  They want to maintain their reputation and they want you to return to make additional purchases and to tell your friends and associates good things about them.  They know that how they handle issues is one of the main factors by which they will be judged.  Always be sure to read and understand any warranty clauses in your purchase contract or warranty policies of the store and manufacturer.  Some warranties require products to be returned to the manufacturer, not the store.   If you purchase extended warranties, makes sure you understand the terms and conditions.  They often require all repairs to be pre-approved or they can and will deny coverage.  It is a good idea to get approval in writing as phone approvals seem to be frequently challenged.   Always seek resolution from the dealer or retailer first (unless the warranty specifies return to manufacturer only) and then from the manufacturer before escalating your complaint.

Retain purchase receipts and original warranty documentation.  Without a receipt to prove the purchase date it will be difficult if not impossible to obtain any warranty service.  Some "lifetime warranties" may be honored without a receipt.  I found a broken Craftsman Phillips screwdriver in some tools I bought at a garage sale.  When I went to Sears with the intent of purchasing a replacement to complete my set, I was given one without charge under their lifetime warranty program.  However, in most cases, you will need your receipt to validate any warranty claim.   Make sure you get any guarantees in writing at the time of purchase. Z ealous salesman may make verbal promises beyond their authority, but if you have it in writing, a reputable business will back it up.   I've been on both sides of that situation.  With the promise in writing on the contract or receipt the dealers honored the promises made by their salesman.  When I had only an oral promise, I often found myself out of luck.

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."   Many problems can be avoided by following good practices.   Do your due diligence when making any purchase.  Have vehicles checked by reliable mechanics and technicians.  Compare prices before you buy.   Read and understand any warranties and comply fully with all service and claims requirements.  Proof of proper maintenance is often required for warranty work and is always a good practice to make sure  your equipment functions properly and lasts as long as possible.

Don't make idle threats.   If you aren't fully prepared to follow through with legal action, don't threaten to "turn it over to my lawyer".   If you do plan legal action, simply exhaust your appeals with the dealer/manufacturer, then proceed with the lawsuit or file a complaint with your local district attorney and send a copy to the dealer/manufacturer. They'll get the message without you sounding off about it.  Threats often just undermine any sympathy and support you might have received from the agent handling your case.  You want to be seen as an actual victim of faulty materials, misrepresentation, or poor workmanship, not just a whiner.  Too many people will submit false, frivolous or fraudulent claims to recover damages or replacements for merchandise they damaged and should be responsible for or simply decided they don't want anymore.  When you have a legitimate claim you don't need to make threats or get angry.  Just document the problem, prove the validity of the warranty, and clearly state what solution(s) you seek or would accept.

Escalating your complaint.  If both the dealer and the manufacturer fail to resolve the problem, you may get help from a consumer affairs department in a your local government.  You can contact the Better Business Bureau (BBB), but they usually take no active role in resolving the complaint beyond notifying the business and posting the complaint on their web site for others to see.  It is a good idea to report complaints to the BBB, but don't expect miracles.  A BBB complaint may help motivate a reluctant merchant to review a case and possibly make some kind of amends, but their only response might be a denial of responsibility.  If you find other customers have filed similar complaints, your combined strength may motivate the seller to take action.   Another resource for RVers is the Hot Line service through Motorhome and Trailer Life magazines.  They investigate complaints and contact the businesses on your behalf.  On many occasions they have been able to assist people in obtaining a satisfactory results.  Sometimes they just get an extended explanation for the reasons for denial.  Don't expect miracles.   If a company believes your claim isn't valid, they have every right to deny it and no amount of pressure by publishers or consumer organizations is going to persuade them to fork out big bucks for something they are not obligated for.  Escalation does often raise awareness of an issue to a higher level of management that may be motivated and empowered to resolve the problem.  Sometimes companies will go beyond their contractual obligations in the interest of customer relations. 

Preventing warranty problems.  You may be able to prevent warranty problems by making sure you fulfill all maintenance requirements and keep good records.   Failure to meet stated maintenance requirements is a legitimate reason to deny coverage.   Performing proper maintenance and following usage instructions may prevent problems from occurring in the first place.  Make sure any claim you may have is not the result of abuse.  Abuse will also invalidate any warranties.  Don't expect the sporting goods store to replace your tent under warranty if you set it on fire, drive over it with your vehicle, or a bear rips it up.

My Grandmother used so say "You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar" meaning you stand a better chance of getting cooperation if you're nice and not nasty.  This definitely applies to negotiating solutions to purchase problems.   Some companies go out of their way to assist their customers but a nasty approach may cause them to become defensive  and to take a strong "stick to the contract" stance.   I've had a couple of extraordinary experiences that bear mentioning to the credit of the companies involved.  First was a clearly out-of-warranty problem I had with a Fantasic Roof Vent for my RV.  It came with a one year warranty and somewhere in the second or third year of ownership, the fan failed and I traced it to a problem in the circuit board.  I phoned the company to see if I could purchase a replacement circuit board.  I explained my situation, including the age of the unit, and was very pleasantly surprised when they voluntarily sent upgraded replacement parts to me at no cost!  Along the same lines, I purchased a Camp Chef stove on close out from Big 5 Sporting Goods, knowing that the regulator was missing.  A call to Camp Chef to purchase the right regulator resulted in them sending it to me at no cost! In each case they also covered the cost of the parts and shipping.  In return I've happily provided hundreds of recommendations to fellow campers.

Submitting your claim.  When you do have a warranty issue, you need to submit your claims properly.  Make sure you have all the required documentation (purchases receipts, warranty documents, repair receipts, forms, etc).  Be sure you are within all time constraints -- that the claim occurred within the warranty period and you are in compliance with the time frames required for notification between the event and filing the claim.  Then write a clear, concise letter describing your claim -- what happened, what you've done so far, and what you are asking for under the warranty. Failure to provide required documentation is a frequent and legitimate basis for turning down claims. Make sure you submit the claim to the right place.   Sending a manufacturer's warranty to the dealer will, at best, delay processing and could result in the claim not even being looked at.  Likewise, submitting a dealer warranty to the manufacturer is also a waste of time.

Success!  By complying with all the terms and conditions of your warranty you greatly increase your chances of success.   Failure to meet any of the terms and conditions can be legitimate grounds for your claim to be denied.  Always make sure you've done  your part before blaming the seller or the manufacturer.

Case closed!

Domestic Tips for Campers

How is housekeeping in your RV or tent any different from housekeeping at home?  Good question.   In many ways, it isn't.  You still need to make the beds, do the dishes, dust, sweep the floors, clean the bathroom, and clean the windows.  Yet each of these tasks is in some way unique in an RV.  Tent campers will find things even more varied.  One big problem is, we like to take a vacation from chores when we're on vacation.  And that is not a good idea.   Putting off routine chores will eventually waste more time catching up than it takes to keep them up to date as you go. And life will be more pleasant if you keep things neat and clean and your gear and equipment will last longer.  A friend of mine said her mother taught her that ''If your beds are made and your dishes are done, your house is clean".  That might be little over-simplified, but it is still a good basic practice in camp as well as at home.

Establish daily and weekly routines.  Routines will help you prevent things from getting out of control.  A few minutes completing your routine each day will keep you organized and free to enjoy your planned activities.  Not all tasks need to be done every day so having a weekly schedule will help keep everything in order.  Your routine at home might serve as a starting point for building your camp schedule.  Things like making beds and doing dishes are inherently daily tasks.  Other cleaning efforts might be done less frequently but should not be ignored.  The main thing is to have some kind of routine so things don't fall through the cracks and go undone until they reach an unacceptable level of disarray and/or dirtiness.

Making the beds.  The bed in the "master bedroom" in many RVs isn't much different than the one at home -- unless it is jammed up against the wall.  If it is, you'll need to master techniques for climbing up on the bed and pulling the bedding into place.   Same holds true for the cab-over beds in campers and Class C motorhomes.   Some people like to use a stick or the awning wand to push bedding into the far corners of these corner beds but I find it is usually easier to just straighten up the sheets and blankets, then kneel on the bed and tuck the bedding neatly under the far edges, then climb off and pull the bedding tight as I go.   Other beds are usually part of a dinette or sofa.  That means you have to get out the bedding and "make the bed" each night, then remove all the bedding and put it away every morning.   Dinette cushions have to be rearranged to create the bed and restored for day time use.  Sofas have to be opened up to their sleep positions and closed again in the morning.  Making the beds when tent camping will mostly consist of hanging out the sleeping bags for a couple of hours, then either rolling them up or putting them back in place.  I prefer to leave them out so they don't lose their "loft" by being squished in a stuff sack.  Letting them hang in the fresh air is always a good idea, weather permitting.   Make up your beds every morning.

Doing the dishes.  Unless you're like my daughter, who is a fanatic about saving water and has a REALLY good dishwasher, you're probably in the habit of rinsing the crud off your dishes before washing them.  Water conservation is very important in an RV, especially when you're boondocking. Instead of pre-rinsing the dishes, wipe them off with a paper towel or a crumpled newspaper.   To avoid a lot of elbow grease to clean greasy, sticky pots and pans, do dump a little water in them while they're still warm, before the crud has time to bake on.  Notice I said "dump", not "run".  You should be saving the water while running the shower to get it warm.  Catch it in a plastic dishpan or even an old bleach jug.  The jug will be less likely to get spilled.   Then use the saved water to rinse your dishes.  Use a good quality dish soap.   Cheap brands won't cut the grease as well and you may have to change water more often , wasting water -- as well as wasting time scrubbing stubborn items.   High quality, concentrated soap will also save space since it usually comes in a smaller bottle and you don't need as much per use.   Doing the dishes while tent camping also requires conservation of water, unless there is a dishwasher station with running water in the camp ground and while you probably won't run out of water there, it is still good camping protocol to conserve water and limit how long you tie up the sink.  Wash your dishes after every meal.   If you clean up after yourself as you prepare your meals, you'll have fewer dishes to do at the end.   Clean dishes will help prevent "the runs".   One really easy way of doing dishes when camping is to use paper plates and cups and plastic utensils which can just be thrown away.

Dust is likely to blow in every time you open the door or to come through windows and roof vents, or just sneak in through cracks.  The "weep holes" at the bottom of windows may let dust in.  The massive dashboards on some big motorhomes are huge dust collectors.  Dust will settle on counters, tables, and cabinets.  I like to use a spray furniture polish on just about every hard surface but the vinyl dashboard.  If you're seriously eco-minded, use a pump rather than a pressurized can.   I use SC-1, the same detailing spray I use on my dirt bikes, on all the vinyl surfaces.  Be sure to vacuum upholstery, carpets, and beds too, since dust settles on them as easily as it does on hard surface -- it just doesn't show up as much!  Dust will soil the fabric and can cause stale odors.  You won't notice the dust in your tent as much, but it will still collect on exposed surfaces and needs to be be taken care of. Y our sleeping bags should get a thorough dusting each morning when you hang them to air out and dry.   Other gear should be dusted off at least once a week or more often in windy/dusty conditions.

Sweeping the floors isn't much different from doing it at home.   Hard surfaces can be quickly swept with a broom, carpets should be vacuumed often.  By nature, most camping areas are somewhat rustic and you'll track in a lot of dirt and sand.   Left on hard surfaces it will destroy the luster.  Left in carpet it will soil the fabric and begin to cut the threads as you walk on it.   Some big RVs have central vacuum systems.  A nice compact canister vacuum is sufficient and perhaps ideal for most RVs that don't have central vacuums.  Uprights are heavy and take up a lot of room.  I've tried using manual "carpet sweepers" and they are handy for quick cleanups but do not get the grit up out of the fibers.  With some light dome tents you can pick them up and shake them to get rid of loose dirt and debris.  For heavier tents or ones that are anchored to the ground, you'll need to sweep them out often. Keep a rug or an old burlap bag near the entrance to your tent or RV to clean your feet to reduce how much crud you track inside.  You can buy short "camp" brooms or simple cut down the handle on an old broom from home.   A bench brush, like you use on your workbench is small and is pretty good for sweeping out tents.

Cleaning the bathroom may be even more necessary in an RV than at home because of the close quarters.  Any unpleasant odors that may develop will be quickly noticeable throughout the RV.  The biggest difference between your RV fixtures and those at home is that most RV fixtures are made of plastic so you don't want to use harsh cleansers.  Choose one of the "soft scrub" cleansers or buy the special RV cleansers at the RV store.  Using a shower spray can help control mildew in the shower. So will simply squeegeeing or drying the shower after the last use each day.   Tent campers may have to deal with public bathrooms or, in remote locations, provide their own primitive latrine facilities. Maintaining a sanitary situation is critical to good health and a safe environment. 

Cleaning the windows of your RV may actually be easier than cleaning the windows at home. Because such a large percentage of the wall space is glass, dirty windows will be obvious and embarrassing.  Any good glass cleaner should w ork just fine.  I usually keep some special "no streak" glass cleaner on board for cleaning the mirrors. It is a little costlier than ordinary glass cleaner, but it saves time keeping the mirrors looking good.  Tent windows don't usually require much cleaning, but you may still need to wipe the dust off screens now and then.   If your tent is equipped with plastic windows, be careful to use only cleaners and procedures recommended by the manufacturer to avoid damaging them.  Wiping dry dust off plastic windows can cause minute scratches that will eventually "frost" the once clear plastic.  Even screened windows in tents will benefit from an occasional dusting.

Pick up and put away is always a good practice at home and even more important in your RV or tent and around camp.  The limited space in your RV means just a few things left out of place begin to impact usability as well as appearance.  And remember, clutter begets clutter, so, if you don't let the first piece of stuff lying around, you're less likely to accumulate more.  Same thing applies to tent camping.   Keep your stuff together and well organized, both in your tent and all around your camp. Follow the old adage: "A place for everything and everything in its place."  A handy trick for corralling small items in a tent is to keep them in hanging bags.  Some tents even have small storage pockets built  it.

Cleaning supplies for camping.   If you are in an RV you can stock it with cleaning supplies in your kitchen and bathroom about like you would at home.  You may need to substitute a "soft scrub" cleanser to protect your plastic or fiberglass fixtures and over time you may find specialty cleaners you like for use in your RV.   Anti-fog mirror cleaner and "Black Streak Remover" are things I've picked up.  For tent camping, most of your cleaning tasks will focus on kitchen items so you'll need dish soap, Scotchbrite, SOS pads and dish towels.   Depending on how long you are out you may also need laundry detergent.  For either RV or tent camping you can just bring along the stuff you use at home, but sometimes the "giant economy size" containers that make sense at home are not convenient in camp.  Small, unopened containers will take up less room and are less likely to spill.   Fortunately you can probably stock up on just about everything you need at your local dollar store.   Get name brands when you can, but don't be afraid to try their "house" brands.   My wife has found many of the house brands from Dollar Tree to be equal to or better than the name brands.  I suggest you do try them out before you head out on an extended outing and are dependent on them.  You don't want to be out in the boondocks when you discover someone in the family is allergic to the new laundry detergent or that the dish soap doesn't cut it.   Having inexpensive products to use may encourage you to use them while you might be a bit stingy and might have a tendency to limit using pricey products. 

If you can't get small sizes, consider getting travel size containers to use instead of filling up you RV cabinets or camp bins with big bottles of cleaning supplies.   You can often find empty travel size bottles at your local dollar store. 

Clean it up!

RV, OHV, Camping and Boating Communications

Communications enroute, around camp, on the waterand on the trail, are important.  Today's cell phones work pretty well in populated areas and even along most highways.   Sometimes they even work surprisingly well in remote locations, but hand-held CB, FRS or GMRS radios are a good addition for camping, hiking, and OHV trips, especially if you're headed off the beaten path and out of cell phone coverage.  The addition of an external cell phone antenna may improve reception and transmission, but make sure your phone is compatible with the antenna connector.   I have an external cell phone antenna on my motorhome that worked well with previous phones but my current model doesn't have an external antenna connector.  HAM radios are bit more expensive and require training and licensing but have a much greater range than FRS and GMRS radios.  Be aware that virtually all radio communications are "line-of-sight".   If you're in one valley and the person you're trying to communicate is over the hill in the next one, you probably aren't going to have much luck.  Short wave (HAM) radios can sometimes take advantage of something called "skip", where signals bounce off layers in the upper atmosphere and can reach over the horizon, but for most applications you need a pretty clear path between transmitter and receiver for reliable communications.  Of course, these days, cell phones are pretty ubiquitous and can provide communication between vehicles in a convoy and between camp sites.  You might even be able to make emergency calls out on the trail, but remember, cell phones depend on being within range of a cell tower.  While cell towers cover most cities and even most regularly used highways, you may find coverage lacking in remote mountain and desert areas where you go camping, riding, or  hiking.  Marine environments use special radio frequencies and special radios tuned to those frequencies.  If you do any off-short boating you are going to want good two-way marine radio communication.  Most marine radios include features that will aid rescuers in locating your boat in an emergency.  You may use CB, HAM, and FRS/GMRS radios for short range communications between boats in a group like you would among campers.

Not all communications have to be two-way communications.  A good NOAA weather radio can be an extremely valuable addition to your camping communications gear.   These specialized radios provide continuous local weather forecasts and alerts.  Any good radio can usually provide news, traffic, and weather updates.  Even a good am/fm portable radio can normally bring you news and weather alerts.  Sometimes the radio signals will bounce of parts of the atmosphere but they are usually "line of sight" and mountains or other obstacles will sometimes block reception.  Modern satellite radio systems take advantage of transmitters on orbiting satellites so they usually work just about anywhere above ground.

I recently saw an ad for a multi-band radio that include VHF, CB, Ham, AM and FM all in one unit.   Such a radio would certainly provide the most flexibility for remote communications, but they are a bit pricey:  around $500!  Nice thing to put on the wish list.

On the road.   CB radios are still used by over-the-road truckers and can be easily added to just about any vehicle to provide convenient communications between vehicles enroute.   Hand held versions avoid the need for permanent antennas and wiring to a 12-volt power source.  By the way, RVs, because of their fiberglass bodies, may require a special No Ground Plane antenna.  The range of CB radios is limited to a few miles, but should be more than adequate for most RV "convoys".  CBs have up to 40 different channels. Some channels have been designated for specific purposes. Channel 9 is reserved for emergency communications.  Channel 19 is the channel usually used by over-the-road truckers and an excellent source of traffic and road conditions on most major highways.  Truckrs sometimes use Channel 17 on North-South Highways and Channel 19 on East-West routes.  Channel 19 is dead center of the CB band and is where antennas are frequently most efficient.   Channel 13 is the "RV" channel, and good place to listen for other RVers.  You can choose any of the other channels for more personal communications for your group.  It may take some searching to find an unused or lightly used channel.   Hand held FRS or GMRS walkie-talkies are good for in camp and trail communications.  FRS (Family Radio Service) is what is used by inexpensive and toy walkie talkies and has a more limited power and range than GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service), which uses more power and has a longer range -- but you have to have license to use GMRS.  FRS and CB do not require a license.  For added convenience on the trail, a headset provide hands-free operation.  Though somewhat pricey, "Sidewinder" brand radios are about the most convenient way to communicate with fellow riders on the trial.  These attach to your helmet and can be voice activated.  Be careful using voice activated units.   You're likely to broadcast some unintentional expletives when something goes wrong or surprises you!  I've had good success with ordinary walkie-talkie type FRS radios by tucking them in my Cambelbak and using a pu st-to-talk microphone and earphones under my helmet.  Again, the range is not great, but is usually more than adequate for keeping a group together on the trail and sometimes can even reach back to base camp so it can be useful to have someone monitoring your frequency back there in case of an emergency. We've even used them between groups out on the trails to coordinate emergency services when one of the riders was injured.

Other forms of communication can also be useful.   I may owe my life to a little-known trucker's signal.  I observed a truck driver speeding down the opposite side of the freeway toward me, flashing his lights 3 times over and over and giving three blasts on his air horn as he passed by.  Within a few minutes I encountered a wrong-way driver coming down my side of the freeway like a bat out of hell! The trucker's warning had put me on high alert so I detected the oncoming driver approaching in my lane in time to move over out of his way.  I admire that truck driver for his thoughtful efforts to warn people of the impending danger.  I may even owe him my life!  This was in the days before cell phones.   I pulled off at the next exit and called the State Police, whose tired response was "Where is he now?"  Obviously I wasn't the first one to report the wrong way driver and he had been southbound in the northbound lanes for at least 25 or 30 miles.  Speaking of wrong way drivers, a Highway Patrol friend of mine offered the following advice:   Do not drive in the fast lane of the freeway at night, especially on holidays when alcohol consumption is high, like on New Year's Eve. If you get a wrong way driver (like the one I encountered), he's probably going to be staying to his right, thinking he is being extra safe.   That puts him in the fast lane when he's on the wrong side of the freeway!  My friend says this tidbit was passed on to him by his trainer early in his career, and just minutes later after moving out of the fast lane, he encountered a wrong way driver right where his trainer said he'd be: coming down the fast lane.  When they finally apprehended the guy miles later he insisted the cops had lifted his car over the concrete center divider so it would look like he was driving on the wrong side. I know cops are tough, but not THAT tough!

Some classes of radio communication require special licensing by the FCC.  CB radios used to require a license but no longer do. FRS radios (Family Radio Service) do not require a special license. Range is about 2 miles. GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) offers greater range on some channels but does require an FCC license for the higher powered channels.  A single GMRS license covers the holder and his/her immediate family for personal or business purposes.   Last time I checked the GMRS license cost $85.00 and was good for 5 years.   Some GMRS channels are shared with the FRS service and can be used without a license if you don't exceed the legal transmission power (many GMRS radios have "power save" options that operate at the FRS power, using them at higher power requires a GMRS license).  For long range communications you may need an amateur radio (HAM radio) and license.  HAM radios can sometimes take advantage of repeaters -- automated stations that re-transmit your signal, to extend the range.   You can often get HAM radios classes free from local HAM clubs or educational institutions.  The license itself costs $14.00 and is good for 10 years before they have to be renewed.  Hand-held radios can be purchased for as little as $45 but a good "base station" and antenna setup can cost hundreds of dollars.  Hand helds or mobile radios will be the most useful for camping and caravaning.

Hand signals are useful on the trail.  Ordinary driver's hand signals communicate intentions when turning and stopping and can be very useful in keeping everyone in a group on the right track.  Left arm extended straight out from the shoulder:  left turn.  Left arm held at the square:  right turn.   Left arm held down:  stop.  Left arm  waving as if patting toward the ground:  slow down.  Another helpful signal aids safety when approaching riders coming from the other direction.  Hold up your free hand displaying the number of vehicles behind you in your group.   If there are more than 5, hold up an open hand.  Raise a closed fist, with the fingers facing out, if you are the last rider.   This tells oncoming traffic how many riders to expect.   Don't display your fist with the back of the hand out as that can be interpreted as an aggressive gesture.  Thumbs up and thumbs down have specific meanings so avoid using them in the ordinary "OK/Not OK" sense.   Thumbs up means a crashed rider is back up. Thumbs down means he is down and can't get up.  A simple wave of one hand high over head, like waving "hello", is usually used to indicate "OK".  Low waving of one hand about knee level indicates "not OK".  Avoid low waving of both hands as it is often misinterpreted by baseball fans as "SAFE".

Hand signals can be helpful in camp too, especially when backing into a tight spot.   A closed hand with a thumb extended like you were hitchhiking can be used to show the driver which way the back end of the RV needs to go.  A closed fist means stop.  Slapping the side of the RV means STOP NOW!  You can indicate the driver needs to keep backing up by waving you hand in a "come hither" manner.  Then quickly raise your and and close your fist when they should stop.  Another useful gesture is to indicate the remaining distance by holding  your hands apart facing each other and bringing them closer together as the gap closes.  It helps the driver judge how much further he/she needs to go.  Hand signals avoid the problems of trying to yell commands and disturbing fellow campers.  Two-way radios will let you carry on necessary conversation without yelling but can still be surprisingly loud in a quiet campground.

Though not commonly used any more, flashing Morse code and semaphores (flags) CAN be used to communicate between camps, on the water, and on the trail.   There are marine flags with specific meanings you should be aware of when boating.  They will alert you to water skiers in the water, disabled craft, medical emergencies, out of fuel, and dangerous conditions.   One Morse code signal that IS still frequently used is "S O S", an internationally recognized plea for help.  This consists of three short flashes, three long flashes, and three short long flashes (... --- ...) .   In popular usage, SOS became associated with such phrases as "save our ship", "save our souls" and "send out succour".  These may be regarded as useful mnemonics, but SOS is not an abbreviation, acronym or initialism.  According to the Oxford English Dictionary (2nd ed.), the letters were chosen merely because they are easily transmitted and recognized in Morse code.  When transmitted in Morse code they are often run together (...---...) instead of being sent as separate letters.  Morse code can easily be sent as flashes of light or as sounds.  You can even send Morse code by beating on a hollow log or banging two rocks together -- three quick hits, three slow hits, three quick hits, spells S O S. An ordinary whistle is a good emergency communication device. You won't ruin your voice yelling and it carries well to alert rescuers to your location. You can whistle "SOS" or just give 3 loud, evenly spaced whistles periodically. The three blasts and rhythmic timing helps distinguish your signal from bird calls or other natural sounds like wind or creaking trees.

Parking an RV sometimes requires two people:   one to drive and one to watch where the vehicle is backing, especially when backing into a confined space.   See the previous paragraph "Hand signals can be helful in camp too".   Two way radios are very helpful here although well understood hand signals can often suffice.   DON'T just try yelling!  It will annoy your fellow campers and will probably not do very much good anyway.  A good "emergency stop" signal is to slap the side of the RV hard.  The driver will be able hear it and can stop and discuss the situation before any damage occurs.

Stop and talk.  Whenever you are traveling in a group -- in vehicles, on OHVs or just hiking -- it is a good idea to stop and talk face to face now and then.  You can check the status of fellow travelers or riders, alert associates to where you're going next, and adjust routes as needed when special circumstances arise.  It is always better to catch any emerging medical or mechanical problems in the group as soon as possible.  When on the trail you can check everyone's ability to identify the way back to camp and help them learn landmarks and trail tips that can help them find their way back if they get separated from the group.  It is also a good idea to stop and talk periodically when you're in a RV or other vehicular convoy.  Regular rest stops keep drivers fresher and more alert and stops give you a chance to socialize with members of your group and discuss any special needs or wants and plan additional food, fuel, and recreation stops and let the group address the concerns of anyone who is uncomfortable with the pace or the route.

Boats have their own visual and audio signals that you should be familiar with if you are out on the water.  Navigation lights can  help you determine which way a boat is moving relative to your position.  Boats have red lights on the port (left) side and green lights on the starboard (right side) and a white light visible from the rear.  Sailboats might also display white light visible from the front and higher than the navigation lights to indicate they are under auxiliary (motor) power at night.  A white light high up and visible all round (360 degrees) at night indicates a boat is at anchor.  Boats use audio signals (horns, whistles) to signal how they intend to pass each other.  They use short and long blasts, with a short blast being about 1 second long and long blast being 4-6 seconds long.  One short blast means I want to pass you on my port (left) side.  Two short blasts mean I want to pass you on my starboard (right) side.  Three short blast means I am backing up.  Five short blasts means danger or you disagree with the other boater's intentions.  One long blast is used in low visibility, like fog or coming around a blind corner.  Sailboats should use one long blast followed by two short blasts in limited visibility.  Since sailboats maneuver and respond differently than power boats it is useful to know if the boat approaching is a sailboat so you can be better prepared and allow greater space or reaction time.  A sailboat operating under auxiliary power is considered to be a power boat and must obey all the rules for power boats.  Boats also use flags.  Some of the most common are the Alpha Flag (blue and white) for diver down deep in the water, Whiskey Flag (blue with white and red concentric squares) for medical emergency and need help, an orange flag for water skier down, and a distress flag (orange with a black square and black circle).  The Alpha and Whiskey flags each represent letters in the alphabet, A and W respectively.  Boats may also use "day shapes", recognizable shapes that are displayed to indicated a sailboat under power (an inverted black cone) or a boat at anchor (black ball).

Talk it up!