Personal Safety

Fortunately, most outdoor recreational activities and destinations are pretty safe.  But because RV owners and even tent campers are often perceived (rightly or wrongly) as affluent, they are all too often the object of crime.  Besides ordinary theft, RVers and campers are sometimes the target of jealous rage or envy or just plain harrasssment by those who see their activities as signs of wealth and power they themselves lack or who disagree with their lifestyle.   Sometimes campers are viewed as enemies by environmental extremists.  I once had my parked dirt bike sabotaged by so-called environmentalists while I was working on a Forest Service service trail project.  While most of us rely on law enforcement to protect us, ultimately, your personal safety is ulitmately your personal responsibility.  How can you best protect yourself and your investment against those who might seek to steal from you or harm you or your equipment?

There is an old saying that "locks just keep honest people honest".  Certainly a determined criminal is prepared to disable or bypass locked doors or chained and locked equipment, but proper locks can prevent crimes of opportunity.  Leaving your $1200 mountain bike  unprotected, leaning up against the back of your RV or a tree overnight or while you're away from camp is an invitation for someone to "acquire" it for themselves, if only for a short joy ride ,and it may come back damaged, if it comes back at all.  Simply cabling or chaining and locking it up can discourage unauthorized use.   Other, less expensive but easily transportable items, such as lanterns, camp stoves, camp chairs, sports equipment and portable entertainment equipment often tend to "grow feet and walk away" when you're not looking if they are left out and aren't secured or monitored.   It isn't always intentional theft.  Sometimes people mistake your belongings for theirs.  Clearly label your items so someone won't mistake them for their own and so you can identify them if they do go missing.  Law enforcement often suggests etching an ID number on items.   For camping, I like to tag my chairs, coolers, etc with vinyl tape that matches the patriotic red-white-blue stripes on my motorhome and trailer.   It makes it really easy for me to locate my coolers, shovels, and camp chairs around camp and makes it easy for others to see who they belong to.   Securely locking your RV or vehicle when you're away is the first step in preventing theft and vandalism but it may not be enough.  You may want to add a security system.  Often the sounding of a loud alarm will attract enough attention to discourage would-be thieves.   Make sure you are well practiced in disabling the alarm before entering your vehicle so you don't enrage your fellow campers when YOU return late at night. Sliding windows on RVs are fairly easy to force open but there are locking clamps that can be installed on the track to ensure they can't be opened.  Or just lay a piece of dowel in the track.  Some folks have furry security systems.  You don't need a vicious, snarling, Rottweiler , even a yapping Pekinese may make enough noise to send would be thieves scurrying to find a target that will attract less attention.

Several RVers have suggested bringing their canine friends along to deter intruders.  It is unlikely anyone is going to break into an RV with a pair of big growling Akitas or Rottweilers in the front seat!   However, even a Chihuahua may make enough noise to send a would-be burglar looking for a quieter and less obvious target.  You may not need to make your RV totally burglar proof, just harder to get into than others nearby.   I heard the story of two hunters who encountered a bear.  As they were running away, one said "We can't out run that bear."  The other replied "I don't have to out run the bear, I just have to out run you!"   Not a very considerate concept, but you get the idea.  You don't have to make your RV 100% burglar proof, you just need to make it a less attractive target than others to reduce your chances of becoming the victim.  Good locks, properly secured windows, and an alarm system (furry or electronic!) is a good start.   Outdoor motion sensitive LED lights are relatively inexpensive these days and may also serve as a deterrent to would-be thieves as well as a convenience for you when you return after dark.  Thieves like to work in the dark so  it is difficult to see what they are doing and so they can't be easily recognized if they are seen.

Personal attacks in camp grounds are not very common, but have been known to happen.  What can you do to prevent attacks or defend yourself is one does occur?   Prevention often involves making sure you don't make yourself a likely target.  Don't wander around lonely paths alone at night. If you have to make a late-night trip the the rest room alone, carry a large, heavy flashlight -- and be prepared to use it as a weapon if you're attacked.  Many criminals rely heavily on a lack of defensive response from intended victims.  Criminals are prepared and even planning to hurt you and to endure a certain amount of pain themselves, but most ordinary people are NOT prepared to hurt even someone who is attacking them.   If you are attacked, make as much noise as you can and be committed to inflicting as much pain on your attacker as you can as quickly as possible.  You want to disable or discourage them before they can harm you.  Taking some classes in self defense techniques might be helpful. You don't have to become a black belt in Judo or Karate or some other esoteric martial art, just learn how to protect yourself if you are the victim of a personal attack. Good street fighting skills will be far more useful during an attack than the choreographed movements of some of the popular martial arts.   LAPD (Los Angeles Police Department) officers advised downtown employees where I worked to always have their keys in their hand when they left the building and be prepared to gouge out an assailant's eye if they were attacked on the way to their car.  That is a fairly easy maneuver and will put a serious kink in the plans of even the biggest and burliest attacker.  Most "normal" people wouldn't think of inflicting that kind of injury on another human being so you have to prepare yourself mentally if you're going to be successful in protecting yourself and your family from "the bad guys".

Be polite.   Just being polite to your neighbors and others you encounter while camping may help avoid confrontations.   Keep your electronic entertainment systems at a reasonable sound level.   If you are one of those people who need to feel the music as much as hear it, wear headphones so you don't disturb others within earshot.   If you have kids or pets, keep them under control too.

Weapons.  There are many laws governing possession and use of weapons, especially guns.   Improper use of weapons can bring legal consequences for you that are far worse than your assailant faces for attacking  you.  If you feel you need a weapon to protect you and your family, make sure you check out the local laws where you are going.   Laws vary a lot, even from city to city, so be sure to investigate the local rules so you don't find yourself in more trouble than the thug who attacks you!  I had a friend who was charged with a weapons violation even though he had a concealed carry weapons permit when he pulled over to answer a cell phone call in a school zone and a curious police office found a tactical knife in the back seat of his car.  Motorhome magazine published a good article on carrying weapons titled "Have Gun Will Travel" in their January 2011 issue.  A good online reference for the United States is Handgun Law US.   In most jurisdictions you must have a concealed carry weapons permit in order to carry a concealed weapon.  That usually applies to mace and pepper spray as well as guns and knives.  However, since laws change frequently, any published resource may be out of date so always double check with local authorities to be sure of the current law. A major factor in deciding whether to carry a weapon is whether you are sufficiently trained and motivated to use it. Too often, homeowners are killed with their own gun when an intruder takes it from them. Remember, you have every right to defend yourself and your family, but you may not have the right to use deadly force to defend your property.   If you aren't confident in your ability and commitment to use a weapon, you are probably better off not to have one around.   An intruder is unlikely to hesitate to use your weapon against you, yet many "honest citizens" will hesitate, often to their own disadvantage, even in the face of imminent danger to them or their loved ones.  If you carry a weapon, you not only need to know how to use it (through appropriate training and regular practice) you should be mentally and emotionally prepared to use it and know under what circumstances you can do so without undesirable legal consequences.   Be aware you may face criminal charges even when using your weapon in self defense.  When choosing a weapon and ammunition, consider your environment.  Any high-powered projectile is likely to pass through your intended target and through the walls of your home or  RV.   For that reason many gun owners choose hollow point ammunition for their hand guns for self defense.  It transfers more of the force to the target (which is a good thing if you want to stop an attacker) and is less likely to pass through and strike innocent bystanders. Some people will choose shotguns for the same reasons.   A lot of people think shotguns have such a wide spread that they don't require much skill or accuracy.   In fact, that isn't true at most self-defense distances (5-20 feet).  At that range the pattern from a shotgun is only a couple of inches so you still need pretty good aim.   Shotgun pellets aren't as likely to pass through an assailant and penetrate walls and hit unintended targets.   Many people are intimidated by just the sound of a 12-gauge shotgun being cocked so it may scare off some would-be intruders without the need to be fired. Likewise, staring down the gaping 12-guage barrel when one is pointed at you can quickly trigger a flight response.  Even seasoned law enforcement professionals have been known to require a change of underwear after such an encounter.   Mace and pepper sprays are a good non-lethal alternative to firearms but they still sometimes require training and licensing.   In an emergency, a can of wasp spray can effectively deter most attackers.  It has a range of 15-20 feet, compared to 5-6 feet for mace and pepper spray so you can keep potential attackers far enough away so they can't hurt you or your family.   If you spray them in the eyes, it is almost as effective as pepper spray.  And there are no laws against having a can of wasp spray in your RV.   Did you know there is a "heat" rating for peppers? The green and red peppers we enjoy in our salads have "Scoville Heat Rating" (SHR) of zero. Jalepenos score around 5,000. Typical consumer pepper sprays are rated around 200,000; the latest professional, law enforcement pepper spray has an SHR rating of around 5,000,000 -- 1000 times as hot as jalepenos.  I have personally observed someone sprayed with professional strength pepper spray and experienced some of the over spray during body guard training.   It is VERY effective.  My friend is a pretty tough guy, but he was pretty much out of commission for at least a couple of hours. By the way, if you should accidentally spray yourself, we found Dawn dish washing detergent the best way to remove it.  Using it in your eyes is not a very appealing prospect, but it beats leaving the oily pepper spray there!  Some recommend using baby shampoo, but we found that, while it is gentler on your eyes than Dawn, it is too gentle to be effective in removing the oily pepper spray.  If you get sprayed, you can count on being at least partially disabled for an hour or more.  It is very hard to focus on anything else when your eyes are burning and you cannot see.  No matter how macho or tough you are you will not be able to open your eyes once they've been sprayed.   By the way, as mentioned above, ordinary wasp spray makes a pretty good substitute for pepper spray and it requires no training or licensing.   It also has the advantage of a much greater range.   Pepper sprays are designed to be used at about 5'.   Wasp spray will shoot 15-20'!   How close to you want an attacker to get to you or your family?

Remote locations are attractive destinations for camping, RVing, and OHV activities.  Most remote locations are pretty safe.  However to ensure you won't become a target, camp in groups.  A single RV way out by itself might invite a "crime of opportunity".  We sometimes enjoy skeet shooting in the evening after a day of dirt biking in the desert.   It is highly visible to any would-be intruders and lets them know we are an armed camp, and given the number of clay pigeons shot down, we're pretty good shots.  We've never had any problems.  I think it has more to do with the remote location and generally safe environment than it has to do with any show of weapons but making your strength known doesn't hurt.  We've never even encountered any problems with theft of dirt bikes on any of our desert outings.  Everyone pretty much cables or chains and locks their equipment at night to discourage any would-be scavengers, just in case.

Safety is a personal choice.  Prevention is the best defense.  Avoid giving would-be criminals an opportunity to take advantage of you or your family.  Strength in numbers always beats becoming a lone and defenseless target.  Try not to leave your camp site unattended.   I am a licensed Personal Protection Specialist (Executive Bodyguard) and fully trained and certified in Monadnock police techniques, including batons, pepper spray, and defensive tactics as well as several tactical weapons. Even so, I consider prevention as the best approach to personal protection.  If you choose to carry a weapon, make sure you know how and when -- and be prepared -- to use it. Learn a few basic self-defense techniques, practice the moves until you are comfortable with them, and prepare yourself mentally to use them when necessary.   Never fear hurting an attacker -- they are fully prepared and have no qualms about injuring -- or even killing -- you!  Most of us have been taught to avoid hurting other people and not to hit them in the head or face.  Mentally prepare yourself to ignore that conditioning if you are attacked.  Your goal should be to stop an attacker as quickly as possible.  In professional terms is is called "neutralizing the threat".   Your goal is not to kill, maim, or injure your attacker, only to neutralize the attack -- but often or even usually that may require hurting them.   There may be consequences for defending yourself, but at least you may be around to do it!  A friend of mine put it this way: "I'd rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6".  You can't protect your family if you are out dead or otherwise out of commission.   In any hostile situation, your immediate need is to discourage or disable the attack or neutralize the threat by discouraging or disabling the attacker(s) as quickly and safely as possible.  Avoid confrontations if possible.   I've always taught my kids to avoid a fight if possible, but if it can't be avoided, win it!

Safety First!

Winterizing -- Its That Time Again

Winterizing your RV.  If you live in a cold climate you will need to either store your RV in a heated garage or winterize it before the cold weather sets in to prevent freeze damage.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sunshine belt you can probably skip this post for now.  If you choose, for whatever reason, not to winterize your RV, and you live in a cold climate, the consequences could be very expensive.  Temperatures below about 24°F for several days WILL create conditions that can seriously damage RV water systems.  Occasional nights below freezing but with warm day time temperatures may not require full winterizing, but it always better to be safe than sorry.  When I lived in southern California I seldom winterized my vehicles, even when I lived in Rosamond where we got occasional winter night time temps down into the lower 20s. It warmed up enough during the day to prevent the kind of solid freezing that damages plumbing.  It was nice being able to keep the RV ready to roll all year round.  When we moved to Utah I had dreams of building a heated garage, but keeping a big, steel building warm in Utah winters isn't very practical so I've had to resort to winterization.  With night time temperatures in the single digits and daytime highs below freezing, winterization was not optional.   In the process I've had my share of partial successes, resulting in some frozen components when I failed to properly winterize them.   If the damage is in an exposed bit of plumbing, it is an inconvenience and usually a minor expense to repair.  If it occurs inside walls or within the floor, it can be very time consuming and expensive to take care of.  Even frozen pipes under the kitchen sink are a real nuisance to reach.  Proper winterization will take time and require several gallons of RV antifreeze.  It is not a good idea to skimp on either the process or the antifreeze.

The fresh water system is one of the most vulnerable parts of your RV when it comes to freezing. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C).  When water turns to ice it expands.  That's a good thing for lakes 'cause the ice floats.  If it sank, it might never melt and the lake would eventually freeze solid!   Not good for fish or fishermen!  Expansion in confined spaces, like pipes and fixtures, can seriously damage those components.  Many a homeowner and RV owner has suffered the consequences of freezing temperatures on water pipes.   If freezing can rupture heavy galvanized pipe in homes (and it does!), just think what it can do to the comparatively flimsy plastic pipes, dump valves, and fixtures in your RV!  Freezing of fresh water tanks and holding tanks is also of concern, though the size and flexibility of the tanks allows more leeway than thin pipes where the heat is quickly lost and whose structural integrity can be easily destroyed by the expanding ice.   The dump valves and other entry and exterior plumbing are quite susceptible to freeze damage if water is left in them.    All water needs to be eliminated or replaced with RV antifreeze.

To winterize your fresh water system, first drain your fresh water tank then run the water pump and open each faucet until no water comes out.  For added safety, use a 'blow out plug' in the city water inlet to use compressed air to blow any remaining water out of the system.  Be sure to open all the faucets before applying the compressed air.  Leave the drain open until it stops dripping to be sure all the water is out.  You may need to elevate the RV on the side away from the drain to be sure it all comes out.  Drain the hot water heater.  To conserve antifreeze you may want to install a water heater bypass kit (if your RV isn't already equipped with one).  They aren't expensive (usually around $20) and fairly easy to install if you have access to the back of the water heater.  With antifreeze running about $4/gallon, they'll pay for themselves in saved antifreeze the first year.  This allows cold water to pass directly from the feed to the hot water distribution without having to fill the water heater.  It is also a good idea to blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air if you can.  You will need an adapter to screw into the city water connection to which you can attach your compressed air.  Next fill the system with RV/Marine antifreeze.  DO NOT use automotive antifreeze!   It is toxic. RV antifreeze is usually pink. automotive antifreeze is green or yellow.   If you have access to the 12 volt water pump you may be able to connect a hose from the inlet to draw antifreeze from the jug and pump it through the system.  If not,  add a gallon or so of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank.   If that isn't enough to allow your pump to deliver water to all the faucets you may have to continue adding antifreeze until it does pump through the system.  You can also buy manual pumps to pump antifreeze in through the city water connection.   Some winter windshield wiper fluids are also pink, so make sure you use ONLY designated RV/Marine antifreeze.  Then disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and run a line into a jug of antifreeze.  Turn the pump on and open one faucet or fixture at a time (don't forget the toilet) and let it run until the pink antifreeze comes out.  Make sure you have at least 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  Your fresh water system should now be safe down to the protection level indicated for the antifreeze you used.   If you can't get to the inlet side of the pump, dump about 5 gallons or so of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank until you can pump it through the lines and faucets.  Make sure the pink stuff comes out ALL the faucets, both hot and cold, and the toilet.   And, don't forget the outside shower if your RV is equipped with one.

Hot water heaters are also subject to freezing when left off (you don't want to waste propane heating water all winter!).   Many RVs have a bypass system so you don't have to fill the whole water heater with antifreeze to protect the hot water lines.  After turning the valves to bypass the water heater, drain the water heater completely.  If your RV doesn't have a hot water heater bypass, one can usually be added fair inexpensively, especially if you can do it yourself.  Then, when you pump antifreeze through lines, it will go through the hot water lines and faucets as well as the cold water lines so all the lines are protected without having to pump 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater.  Installing a bypass system is pretty easy if you have ready access to the back of the water heater.  You may need custom components if clearances are tight.  Off-the-shelf bypass kits may have fittings and valves that may not fit if clearances are close.

Holding tanks are also susceptible to freeze problems.  Most vulnerable are the dump valves, but the tanks themselves and other plumbing lines can also be ruptured if the contents freeze and expand. Completely drain the holding tanks and add a gallon of antifreeze to each one to protect the dump valves.  Most of the drain lines will be dry, except for the P-traps.  That is why you need a half cup or so of antifreeze in each drain, to fill the P-traps.   Chemicals and contaminates in sewage may lower the freeze point slightly in holding tanks, but unless the additives are antifreeze it probably won't protect them much below the normal freeze point of plain water (32°F) and plain water caught in P-traps would definitely be likely to freeze and damage the plumbing.

The water hoses you use to fill your fresh water tank and to rinse your sewer hoses both need to drained so they don't freeze and burst or take them out and store them in a heated area where they will be protected from freezing.   Some RVers carry multiple fresh water hoses to ensure they can reach the faucets in even the most inconveniently configured camp sites.  Some may also carry a standard garden hose for flushing the holding tanks.  Be sure you take care of all your hoses.

Anything with water in it will need to be drained or protected.   I have a water type fire extinguish in my motorcycle trailer that I have to drain, plus I have to empty our "Camelbak" hydration packs.   Check around your cabinets for where you might have squirreled away bottled water and soda and put it somewhere that it won't freeze.   Frozen soda cans burst when they freeze and when the stuff melts it leaves a really sticky mess.   Ice maker lines should be disconnected and drained.

Propane systems usually don't require any special winterizing for storage, but if you plan to use your RV during winter months you'll want to fill it with a winter blend.  Ordinary propane tends to gel in cold temperatures and then your stove, furnace, and refrigerator won't work.  The winter mix includes butane which has a different vaporization point and helps keep the fuel ready to use at lower temperatures.  I learned this the hard way.  I had a Class B van conversion that I took with me when I moved to Chicago from southern California.  I figured I could increase our driving comfort by lighting the furnace an hour or so before we were ready to drive the van.   I was really disappointed when I could not get anything to light!  It was about -20F outside and the propane was useless. When it warmed up in the spring, everything worked just fine.  If there is excess moisture in your propane system, it could freeze and damage regulators and gas lines.  There is no easy way to determine if there is excess moisture in the propane system.   For peace of mind, have a propane technician check the system.  They may add alcohol to help control moisture and reduce the chances of freezing.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

Coach batteries must be kept fully charged or removed and stored inside to prevent them from freezing.  An automatic battery charger or good converter with a multi-stage charger should maintain the charge for normal winter temperatures, but batteries should be stored in a non-freezing environment if you expect -- or encounter extreme cold.  Check the electrolyte level.  Low electrolyte will prevent the batteries from charging properly.

Automotive systems in your motorhome or tow vehicle also need to be winterized.  If you've been keeping up with your routine maintenance your coolant should already be at the proper mixture to protect the engine from freezing.  Check the protection level in your radiator using a hydrometer. Make sure you are protected well below the temperatures you expect to experience -- just in case you get an unexpected cold snap.  It is a very good idea to change the oil before storing your vehicle for the winter.   Used oil often contains acids and contaminates that can damage metal parts while in storage.  Don't forget the oil in your generator.  And make sure the battery is fully charged.  A low battery can freeze fairly easily, but a fully charged on will withstand much colder temperatures. A frozen battery may crack, spilling acid all over the place and causing serious and expensive damage as well as destroying the battery.  Removing the batteries on very cold nights is a nuisance, but not nearly as much of a nuisance as cleaning up spilled battery acid if they freeze and break!

Provisions you keep in your RV, including edibles, medicine, and sundries, may need to be removed and stored inside during freezing weather so they don't freeze and break their containers or destroy the contents -- or both!  You won't like the results of either consequence!  Broken containers can be very messy and frozen contents may present you with a nasty surprise when you go to use them next season.  And don't forget the contents of your outside storage compartments.  Some cleaning supplies you store there may need protection to avoid freezing too.

Protecting the exterior from winter weather is also important.   If you don't have a covered or enclosed storage area for your RV, consider investing in a good RV cover.  You'll see people using ordinary tarps and they provide some protection but they don't breath and the coarse surface can damage the finish on your RV.  Tarps are OK if they are set up as shield around and over the vehicle but can damage the paint if they are placed in contact with the surface.   Make sure your vehicle is clean before covering it.  Any dirt or debris is likely to damage the surface as the cover moves.   If your RV is stored outside, be sure to at least protect the tires.   The rubber tends to dry out and crack when the tires sit for long periods of time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight and ozone.  Vinyl tire coves are fairly inexpensive and easy to use.   Ordinary contractor trash bags wrapped around the tires will protect them from the sun.  Keeping the rain and snow of off your RV also prevents intrusion and accumulation of moisture that could then freeze and cause additional damage.   If you have to leave your RV outside when it snows, brush off the accumulation before it gets deep enough to overload the roof or the vents on the roof.  The best way to do this is to use a long-handled broom from a ladder alongside the RV. W alking around on a slippery RV roof, which is usually strewn with obstacles that could be hidden in the snow you could trip over, is a recipe for a nasty fall!   That ground is a long way down and likely to be frozen.  Definitely not someplace you want to land.

Using your RV in winter.  Most people don't use their RVs during freezing weather, but they can make a good base camp for skiing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling if they are properly prepared.   Just keeping your RV furnace set to keep YOU warm doesn't necessarily protect your water systems against freezing.  You may need a heater or heat tape to protect holding tanks, dump valves, and exposed pipes.  A 100-watt bulb inside an exterior compartment that contains exposed water system components may prevent them from freezing -- IF you have 120-volt power to run it all or most of the time.   You will want to seal any potential drafts around doors, windows, and cabinets and use foam insulation panels in the windows to prevent heat loss.  Make sure your furnace is in good condition and you have plenty of winterized fuel.  The propane used in warm climates will gel or freeze in cold weather, so try to use up your summer supply before the cold weather hits and refill your tank with a winter mixture.  If your furnace isn't large enough to meet the demands of your winter outings, explore adding a second furnace or a permanently installed or portable catalytic heater to add more warmth.  If you plan to do a lot of winter camping, it will be worth the investment in a second furnace or a permanently mounted catalytic heater.  If you only need it occasionally, you can probably get by using a "tent heater" for auxiliary heat.  With any catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation.  While they don't out out smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen and even seasoned campers have suffocated when they forgot to leave some windows open.  Electrical heaters are an easy remedy if you have shore power or a generator and plenty of fuel, at least for daytime use.  You don't want to run the generator at night so plan on other ways of keeping warm during "quiet hours".  Personal comfort can often be increased at little cost by adjusting your wardrobe.   Thermal underwear, warm socks, and sweaters are usually enough in an RV or even in a tent.  For sleeping comfort you may need a sleeping bag with a lower temperature rating or need to add some extra blankets, quilts, or comforters.  One trick I've found works really well is to open up an extra sleeping bag and use it to cover two people in their individual or shared bags.   The shared bag provides additional insulation and retains heat from both bodies immediately around the sleeping bags instead of letting it escape into the surrounding air and trying to heat and entire tent or RV.

Setting up your RV for winter use.  Some RVs come from the factory already set up for winter use. If yours didn't, there are some things you can do to make it more winter friendly.  Factory setups usually include enclosed and heated holding tank compartments that may be difficult or impossible to do as a retrofit. You may have to resort to heat pads and tape to warm exposed tanks and plumbing. Exterior compartments are often lacking insulation and you may be able to remedy that with rigid styrofoam or foam/foil insulation installed to line the compartments and compartment doors. Insulation alone won't keep exterior compartments warm.  You may need to add heat tape or just install a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb in each compartment.  You'll need shore or generator power to run the lights, but since incandescent bulbs are about 90% efficient as heaters and 10% efficient as lights, they'll usually do a pretty good job of keeping the damaging chill away.   Generous and consistent use of foam/foil panels in your RV windows will greatly improve heat retention and interior comfort and reduce propane consumption.  You may need snow tires or tire chains to fit your RV tires for safe winter travel.  I like to use an old foam sleeping pad to lie on when installing tire chains.   Not only is it more comfortable than lying on cold, wet pavement or gravel, it helps keep you up off the snow or wet ground.

When using park hookups in winter you will need to wrap your water hose AND the faucet with heat tape.  Leaving the hose attached will defeat the self-draining features of the frost-free faucets and both the hose and the plumbing may freeze -- and YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairs.  Heated fresh water hoses are convenient to use but somewhat expensive and you'll still need heat tape to protect the exposed pipe and faucet it is connected to.

Attention tent campers! Just because you don't have an RV doesn't mean you're off the hook for winterization. Your camp stoves and lanterns should be properly cleaned and stored.   Make sure your tent is clean and dry.  Loosen those tightly strapped sleeping bags so you don't destroy the loft.   Open them up and hang them freely if you can.  Go through your provisions and make sure anything that might freeze or leak is put somewhere safe.  If you have portable hot water system or a porta-potto, be sure to drain and winterize it.   Check your ice chests to be sure they have been emptied out.  Empty your canteens or hydration packs.  Then take advantage of the "indoor months" to inventory, inspect, repair, replace, or upgrade your gear as needed.

Keep cozy all winter!

Read and Re-read.

Why would you want to re-read any of the posts on this blog? Or anything else for that matter?  Well, for one thing, each time you read it what you get out of it will be affected by the sum of all your experience, and your experience changes constantly. On top of that, I frequently re-read all my posts and often edit them to clarify some points or provide additional information as my experience changes and I acquire new material or I come across relevant items from other sources. There are always new products or procedures coming along to improve our camping and RV options. And, NO, I don't get paid when people read my blog!

Read and re-read any RV and camping magazines you may receive. Read and re-read first aid manuals and survival guides. Read and re-read the owners manuals and maintenance schedules for your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment. Sound boring? Maybe, but it is important to keep up to date and you're sure to find valuable new insight with each reading. And it will be a lot less boring and whole lot less stressful than sitting around waiting for repairs or assistance when something breaks down cause you didn't know how to take care of your equipment or what to do when something unpleasant happens.   Unfortunately, we don't get to use our camping equipment and recreational vehicles as often as we would like so it is all too easy to forget things we once knew about them.  Reviewing the relevant documentation periodically is one way of keeping it fresh.  There was an old saying when I was in school: "The more you learn, the more you know, the more you know, the more you forget, the more you forget, the less you know, so why study?" Nice try -- when want to avoid doing homework, but it never flew well with parents or teachers who insisted repetition improved learning.  Care to guess who was right?  Well, the more you read and re-read relevant materials, the more familiar they will be and the more you will retain. You can figure it will take at least 3-5 readings before you really understand any given article, let alone will remember it. Repetition does improve memory.  You don't have to remember all the answers but just knowing where to find relevant information about your equipment can save tons of maintenance and repair time.

What catches your attention will change from time to time, depending on your needs and point of view at any given time. You may gloss over survival and emergency preparedness topics until you or someone close to you is affected by a disaster situation. You may not find hints for hot or cold weather camping particularly useful until you find yourself out in hotter or colder weather than usual. I am hoping that by posting my experience and research on this blog I can help you prepare for situations ahead of time and, with any luck, avoid some of the pitfalls I and other campers I know have encountered. Unfortunately, a lot of us are a like a kid, who told not to touch a hot stove, doesn't really believe it until he experiences it for himself and gets burned.  Don't get burned!

Read and re-read is something I frequently practice, not only on my blog but with many of my research materials. Much to my wife's frustration, I hang onto a couple of years or more of back-issues of Motorhome, RV View, Highways, Sail, and Dirt Rider magazines, and frequently go back and re-read them. They are a gold mine of tech and travel tips. The reviews of new vehicles and products helps me keep up with new innovations and evolving trends, to say nothing of piquing my interest in possible upgrades. New product reviews are interesting and helpful. There are always new gadgets to look over and covet. The maintenance tips provide a continuing source of valuable insight into solutions for mechanical issues, fixing problems, and tips for acquiring and installing new equipment. Travel stories are always fun to read and may give you ideas for new adventures of  your own.  One of my favorite Motorhome Magazine features is called "Quick Tips", a series of simple user-supplied ideas that solve common problems and are easy and inexpensive to implement.  And even though I have read them all from cover to cover more than once, I often find new tidbits that surface as my experience or focus has changed since the last time I read them.

I urge you to especially consider articles that provide instruction for emergency preparedness. It isn't as much fun as riding our OHVs or personal watercraft so we tend not to pay as much attention. Hopefully disasters are rare, and because they usually are, we are often unprepared when they happen. You might get pretty good at changing and patching OHV tires if you ride rocky trails where you get frequent flats. Hopefully you won't have as many chances to practice your first aid or CPR skills! Some people shy away from preparations because they don't understand the potential risk or are scared or they don't know where to start. Some folks are superstitious, fearing that preparing for a disaster will in some way make it happen. As for me, I'd a whole lot rather prepare and prepare and never need it than not prepare and find myself in trouble. Fear and panic are the greatest threats in almost any disaster or survival situation. The best way to avoid fear and panic is preparation. It doesn't matter if you are preparing for a major natural disaster such as earthquakes, tornadoes, or floods or for the minor problems of a mechanical breakdown or being caught in bad weather on a camping trip, the key to enduring the difficulties and making the most of the situation is preparation. Preparing for emergencies may not be as much fun as preparing for a water-skiing or OHV trip, but it may be more important. I felt pretty much in control following the 1994 Northridge earthquake in California which knocked over block walls in my neighborhood and took out power for a few days and killed several people in the next valley.  My youngest son was about 10 at the time. Partly because his mother and I didn't panic, he felt secure. When an aftershock hit while he was playing street hockey with his friends he paused to ride it out, grinned and said "Cool!", and went back to his game. A fellow worker of mine had recently moved from New York and was totally unprepared and panicked by the 'quake. His 12 year old daughter spent the next two weeks hiding under the dining room table and reverted to wetting her pants. I'm certain her parents fear played a big part in her reaction. You may have to force yourself to make emergency preparations a priority, but one day it will pay off and you never know when that day might come. After the Northridge quake I donned my C.E.R.T. gear and went to check on friends and neighbors after having confirmed the status of my own family. Everywhere I went people came out desperately seeking information and help. Frankly I was surprised how ill prepared so many people were to deal with a quake and how hungry they were for information and assistance in earthquake prone southern California.

Never stop learning!

Slide outs

One of the most noticeable advances in RV design in recent years is the slide-out.  We're not talking about doing Tokyo drift style maneuvers with your RV or what sometimes happens on slick roads, we're talking about structural modifications that expand the interior space when your RV is in the campground.  Old-style RVs typically have an aisle about 2' wide down the middle with cabinets, counters, and furnishings on either side.   Slide-outs move the cabinets or furnishings out, leaving more open floor space inside.  Large motorhomes and trailers may have up to 4 slide-outs.  Units with opposing slide outs in the main living area create a living space that seems down right palacious. Gone are the feelings of claustrophobia that once beset users of many older RVs.  I saw one at an RV show with 5 slides outs that appeared to have more open space than my living room at home!  Of course the price tag was more than my house too!

Think slide-outs are a modern innovation?  The RV Hall of Fame includes a custom built "Telescope Apartment" on a 1915 Model T Ford that had multiple slide-out compartments, including the main telescoping section.  Modern use of slide outs in RVs didn't show up until the 1990s.

Slide-outs are wonderful additions but they do present some extra considerations when using your RV.  First of all, you need to be aware that the slide-outs need space when you pull into a camping spot.   Attempting to open a slide-out where it will encounter obstacles can cause distressing and expensive damage to your RV.   If there is ANY chance the slide-out might strike an obstacle, don't open it.  Move the obstacle or move your RV until you have adequate clearance to open the slide-out.  Even small branches can interfere with proper operation, damage the mechanism, or puncture the skin.   Even if you can successfully open the slide-out, if branches get caught as the unit is retracted again it can cause serious damage.  Be sure to check clearances overhead and at the bottom of the slide out.  Look for possible interference every time before you extend or retract the slide.

Slide-out safety.   Besides making sure you have adequate clearance to open your slide-out, you may want to make sure you have plenty of room to walk around the open slide-out Otherwise you may need to duck under it get past it and that is a good way to bump your head.  Some folks use velcro to attach bright colored ribbons to the corners of the open slide-out to make it easier to avoid bumping into the corners.  Another consideration is weight distribution and loading.  The structure is designed to support the original purpose and adding more weight could seriously damage the mechanism.   A slide out that with a sofa should easily handle the weight of normal use of the sofa, but adding an extra water tank or heavy equipment under the furniture is likely to seriously overload the structure and cause significant and expensive damage.   Some slides extend out over outside cabinets, making access to them difficult when the slide is extended.   In some cases the cabinets extend out with the slide.  When this is the case you will want to avoid overloading the cabinets so the extra weight doesn't stress or damage the slide mechanism.  You may also want to guard against over-loading a slideout with people.  Too many people standing or sitting in a slideout may bend some of the structure.

Slide-out maintenance.  Slide-outs usually require little maintenance, but what is required is important.   That is to keep the mechanism free of dirt, debris, and obstacles and properly lubricated. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication and use the right lubricants in the right places at the right intervals.  Using the wrong lubricant or using too little or too much or at the wrong intervals will cause damage.   Too little lubricant or waiting too long will risk excessive wear on the moving parts and could cause binding that may bend the mechanism or burn out the motor.   Too much or too frequent oiling may accumulate dirt and dust which also accelerates wear -- and makes a mess.  Make sure there are no loose items under furniture or cabinets in a slide out that could fall into the mechanism.  You also want to keep the top of the slide-out clean when it is extended.  Slide-out awnings are a good way to automatically protect the top of your slide-out.  If you don't have them, inspect the roof before you retract your slide-out and brush away any debris that could get pulled in and damage the seals. Speaking of seals, they need to be regularly inspected and kept clean.  They should be treated a couple of times a year with a spray designed to protect and lubricate the rubber to keep it in good condition and protect it from the elements.

ALWAYS retract your slide-out before moving your RV.   Motorhomes usually have an interlock that prevents you from moving the unit with the slide extended, but since the tow vehicle is separate for trailers, its up to you to make sure all the slides are stowed before moving your extended towable home on wheels.   Moving the unit with the slides extended can cause serious damage.  You may risk the slide hitting an obstacle but even if the way is clear, the twisting of the coach going over any kind of uneven surface, like even going in or out of a driveway, or sometimes just the tilt from making a slow turn, can tweak the slide so it no longer fits or works properly.  The leverage of an extended slide can exceed the design limits of the mechanism when the body is tweaked.  Then you may have difficulty retracting and extending the slide or may have leaks and repairs are not cheap!

You may also want to retract your slide outs during high winds.  The extra surface area and extended leverage of the slide outs may cause excessive rocking and rolling of your unit and could tweak the slide outs so they can't be retracted and/or no longer fit properly.  If the slide is moving or flexing from the wind it may get tweaked enough to compromise the seals and allow dirt, wind, and precipitation inside.

Slide out awnings are included with most slide outs to reduce the chance of rain intrusion and accumulation of debris on the top of the open slideout.   Like most added conveniences, they may increase cost and come with their own maintenance requirements and limitations.  On long slide outs the fabric may sag enough, even when properly tensioned, to allow water to pool during heavy rain.   If the awning isn't properly tensioned, it may flap excessively in higher winds.   As the awnings age, the fabric stretches and the springs weaken and may need to be adjusted or replaced for optimum performance.   Some folks throw a rope over the awning and tie it down to reduce flapping.  You might also install grommets along the outside edges and tie it town with rope or bungee cords.  To deal with the water pooling problem, some innovative owners have created support frameworks out of PVC pipe.  One pushed a beach ball under the awning to hold up the middle -- but he got tired of chasing the beach ball around the campground when strong breezes would dislodge it.

An innovative variation of a slide out, called a Veranda, was introduced in 2008 but hasn't really caught on.  Most of the entire curb-side wall hinged down to create a suspended deck on the side of the RV.  Residential style sliding glass doors provided access between the deck and the interior of the RV.  As clever as this invention was, it would appear that people are more interested in having more interior space than a veranda.  An awning and a good patio mat make a pretty good patio area without the extra weight, extra cost, or extra complicated machinery of the Veranda.  This option might be a good choice for anyone who has difficulty negotiating the stairs on their RV since the Veranda floor is a the same height as the floor inside the RV.

Are slide outs right for you?  It is hard to imagine any time slide outs would not a be a welcome addition, but there are things to be considered.   If you frequent campgrounds with small, tight spaces, you may not have room to open your slide out.  While most slide out equipped RVs can be used with the slides retracted, interior space is often limited and some features may be inaccessible with the slide retracted.  If vehicle weight is a major consideration, remember that slide outs add weight.   So if you need to stay below a maximum weight, you may not find slide outs to be a good choice.  Why might you need to restrict the weight of your RV?  Well, you might visit campgrounds where there are weight restrictions on bridges or ferries you may encounter en route.  If you already have a trailer you tow behind your motorhome, you may have to limit the weight of the motorhome so as not to exceed the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR).  Exceeding the GCVWR will have serious negative affects on handling, safety, mileage, performance, and longevity of your RV.

Slide outs CAN be added to some existing RVs, but generally it is cost prohibitive -- around $2000/foot.    That makes a modest 14' addition cost $28,000, more than many used motorhomes taht already have slide outs!  There may also be weight restrictions and serious structural considerations.  Upgrading to a newer model with slide outs has other advantages as well, such as dual pane windows, improved insulation, and more energy efficient appliances with fewer hours of use.  Since slide outs are a relatively recent innovation, you won't find them in older, more affordable RVs.   In fact, the addition of slide outs is one factor that has made older units without them more affordable since many buyers often want slide outs.  However, if you have a vintage RV you really love and want to add a slideout, it may be possible.  Make sure your installer understands the engineering to ensure your rig can support the addition of a slide out.

Slide outs often have a "slide out topper" -- an awning that extends out over the slide out when it is extended, protecting the top from weather and the seals from UV damage.  Toppers can usually be added to slides that don't have them.

Early model units with slide outs might look like a bargain, but make sure the seals are in tact and the slides all work smoothly, without any binding or straining.   As slides age, the seals tend to break down and the mechanical parts get worn  or bent.  If they have had little use and have been properly cared for they may be just fine, but any lack of maintenance or any abuse could render them a disaster just waiting to happen.   Seals and other replacement parts for older units may be obsolete and difficult or expensive to find.  As often occurs with any technology, improvements have been made since slide outs were first introduced so, in the long run, it may pay to get a later model.

The availability of slide outs has had an impact on the resale value of older RVs that don't have them.  That means you may be able to get a bargain price on a quality older unit that doesn't have slide outs if are OK with the smaller living space in camp.   Before you completely throw out the idea, keep in mind RVs without slide outs have been around a long time and have provided great service, comfort, and convenience.   You may be able to find an "open floor plan" that gives you some of the elbow room of slide outs without the extra cost.  You may feel less claustrophobic in a newer model with slide outs, not only because of the extra room but because your wallet will be thinner and take up less space.

Slide in to slide outs!

Camping and OHV Skill Builders

There are many skills you may need for camping and OHV activities.  Some of these skills you may be able to practice at home.  Others will have to be exercised at appropriate hiking, water facilities, or OHV riding areas.  Many of the skills you need for camping may be useful during a disaster.  Make yourself a list of skills you want to master and choose at least one to practice on each outing.

Fire starting skills can be practiced many places.  You don't have to build a campfire to practice although that is a good exercise.  You can even use them in your fireplace at home.  You especially should practice if you want to learn how to start a fire using flint and steel instead of matches or lighters.  It takes a bit of practice before you get the knack of preparing tinder correctly and striking the sparks just right.   I like to use 100% cotton balls for tinder.   They work really well.   Don't even try it with the synthetic "cosmetic puffs".  They may look the same, but your sparks will just melt through instead of flaming like they will in cotton.  It isn't very difficult, but it will take some practice before you can routinely get a fire going quickly.  You don't want to waste time learning the technique when you are in an emergency or survival situation when your life or at least your comfort might depend on getting a fire going right away.   Some flint and steel fire starter kits come from the factory with a protective coating that needs to be scraped away before you can get a good spark, so that is another reason to practice beforehand so it will be ready to use instantly when you really need it.   Another good skill is being able to start a fire using only what nature provides.   Most techniques involve friction to create enough heat to ignite an ember.   Learn how to make and use a hand drill, a bow drill, and a fire plow.

Other camping skills you can practice at home include setting up your tent and camp cooking. Practice setting up your tent in your back yard so it is easy for you when you need it in camp -- or in a disaster situation.  Know the best way to layout it out, stake it down, and raise it.  Know the best way to take it down and put it away -- and how best to organize the components and any tools you need.   You can practice camp cooking for holiday get-togethers or just family dinners.   Try out different recipes.  Try your hand at baking cakes and breads.  Cooking on a camp stove or over a campfire is different than cooking on your home stove and it will take some practice before you are comfortable with it and able to get consistent results.  You should get used to using your camp or RV stove or Dutch oven and try out some recipes where you still have alternatives if things turn out badly.

Dutch oven cooking is a good way to prepare meals in camp or at home during an emergency or power outage.   It is kind of like a pioneer crockpot, allowing you to slow-cook an entire meal in one pot.   Once set up it requires very little attention so you're free for other activities.  Charcoal is the favored fuel for Dutch ovens.  You usually put the oven on a bed of glowing coals then put several on the lid.  Use one briquette on the lid for each inch of diameter of the pot.  Be careful to brush away all the ash before opening the lid so you don't dump it into your food!  Use a lid lifter or a pair of pliers to remove the lid so you don't burn your fingers!

Hiking skills.  You can break in a new pair of hiking boots around home and taking some walks around the block but you'll need access to some real trails to do any real practicing.  You'll encounter obstacles and terrain on the trail you won't find walking on sidewalks or even on the nice little trails in your local park.  Try to find out as much as you can about any trail you choose to practice on. Local rangers or other hikers may be able to direct you to trails that will give you the kind of practice you're seeking -- and steer you away from trails you might find a little TOO challenging.  Like any other physical sport, you'll want to start with the basics and work your way up.  Trying to do too much too soon is a really good way to sour you and your family on the whole idea -- or even put someone in the hospital!  Most people find a good walking stick is nice to have when hiking.  You can make your own from a "found" stick, a sturdy dowel, or buy a commercial one.  Home-made ones often bring along memories that are fun to relive.  I also have a telescoping aluminum walking stick that makes it easy to store and carry it when I don't actively need it.  Its light weight makes it less tiring to carry and use than a heavier wooden stick too.

Personal watercraft like JetSkis and SkiDoos or other water sports like water skiing and wakeboarding need to be exercised in appropriate waterways, away from swimmers, fishermen and other watercraft.  The water needs to be deep enough so you don't run aground or hit submerged debris that could damage you or your craft or cause an accident.  Might be a good idea to start out in water you can stand up in, just in case.  Always wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved flotation device and have rescue spotters to keep an eye on you in case you get into trouble.   The first time I went water skiing I barely even got wet.  They pulled me up from sitting on the dock and I when I came back I coasted along the dock and sat down again.   On the other hand, my brother's first attempt was very different.  They tried to pull him up out of the water and for some reason no one knows, could never get him up on the skis.

Snowmobiles have a little more latitude.  The best place to practice is in a snowmobile park with groomed trails, but if you happen to be lucky enough to live in a rural area and/or have access to open fields, you can begin your training there.  Eventually you'll want to graduate to more technical trails where you can enjoy the thrills of whizzing through the trees and around obstacles, and as the old song says "Over the river and through the woods".   There are several classes of snowmobiles.   They range of heavy duty "work" machines to very fast performance models.   You will want to choose the one that is appropriate for your experience level and the type of riding you intend to do.   "Trail" rated machines are a pretty good place for beginners to start and you should pretty much stick to groomed trails.   When you get the hang of it you can graduate to a "powder" machine that is faster and more powerful and will accommodate off-trail riding.   So why not just start out with a powder machine?  Well, the added power and quicker response in the hands of a novice is likely to overshoot the trail and result in inuring the rider.

OHV riding skills need to be developed if you are going to get the most out of your OHV.  Unless you live in a rural area and have a large piece of property, you will need to go to a designated OHV area to practice.   Plan your practice sessions according to the skill(s) you want to work on.  Some common techniques you may want to master include hill climbing, riding in sand, riding rocky trails, negotiating your way over logs and large rocks, tight corners, berms, ruts, and fast trails.  You usually should not try to cover all techniques in a single ride.   Plan individual rides to focus on one or two particular skills and take advantage of natural terrain in the area where you are to exercise your techniques.   Limit the number of riders so you can observe their performance and provide individual attention as needed so they get the most out of the ride.  As new riders master skills, put them to work helping less-advanced riders.  Not only will it take some of the load off you, it will help them to grow even more.  Skill builder rides should ideally be led by an experienced rider who knows the trails and can judge the skill level of his students.  Chances are you'll know or meet some riders who will be willing to lead some skill builders if you aren't ready yourself.  Skill builder rides need to be interesting and fun.   We had a favorite set of rolling hills near "C" Park in California City that were perfect for skill builders.   It was even fun for experienced riders.

Driving skills.  I recall an anecdote about a radio DJ who, hearing 85% of all drivers considered themselves good drivers, wanted to know why he was always on the road with the other 15%!   Most of us probably think our driving skills are pretty good, but driving an RV -- motorhome or tow vehicle and trailer -- involves things you don't encounter wheeling around in the family sedan or SUV.   RVs are bigger and heavier.  They are slower to accelerate and decelerate and require more room for turns, stops, getting up to speed, and lane changes.  They also have significantly different visibility issues, especially when it comes to rear-views for lane changes or backing into a camp site.  Not to mention clearance problems -- height, width, overall length and overhang.  If you have access to a motorhome driver education course, take advantage of it.   They are usually conducted in large parking lots where you practice with your own RV.   Often you will be guided using cones so the risk of damaging your RV or something else is minimized while you learn things like blind spots, turning radius, and clearances. If you are not completely comfortable driving your RV now, at least take some time to set up your own practice sessions in an empty parking lot.  Fill empty milk jugs about half full with water and use them to layout your own obstacles.  Practice making turns without knocking down the jugs representing the curb.  Practice backing into a pretend camp site.   Practice parallel parking your motorhome (and yes, it can be done!).   If your RV is a trailer, make sure you practice backing it up. A handy trick is to move the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go.  You need to learn how sharply and quickly your trailer will turn, both going forward and backing up.   Something novices often overlook is the way the overhang of an RV swings.   I know of a driver who ripped the entire rear cap off a Class A motorhome he'd just purchased when he turned too sharply away from the curb and the rear end clipped a fire hydrant.   Cutting a corner too close and running over a curb can have catastrophic results.   RV steps, dump valves, and even propane tanks often hang low enough to be badly damaged if you turn too sharply and they hit the curb.  I've seen RVs take out STOP signs and street signs when the driver turned too sharply at an intersection.  Such problems are more common with trailers because the trailers sometimes "cheat" on you (don't follow the tow vehicle exactly, but turn sharper and cut the corner).   Know how steep a driveway you can negotiate without tearing off the exhaust system or the back bumper or smashing your dump valves.  You might be surprised how much that long overhang dips just going in and out of normal driveways.  Always go slow in an unfamiliar situation.  A little time spent practicing can avoid a lot of embarrassment and expense.  No matter how good we think we are, most of us could use a little refresher and some practice now and then -- especially when driving a motorhome or truck and trailer that we don't drive every day!

Turn every camping trip into a learning experience for yourself and your family.  Watch for "teaching moments" when you can take advantage of natural events to increase or share your knowledge of science, nature, and life lessons.   Parents often have a tendency to try to do everything for their kids, to give them advantages they didn't have.  Unfortunately, in so doing they often take away advantages they DID have -- like learning responsibility, self reliance, and the value of consequences.  We don't want our kids to get hurt so we try to protect them from unpleasant consequences, but they really DO need to learn that there are consequences and that they are accountable for their own choices and actions.  We may be able to protect them from bullies at school or insulate them from ill mannered playmates who might hurt their feelings (although by doing so we may deprive them if important life lessons), but we can't avoid consequences of gravity when they fall off their bikes.   By the way, "protecting" them from many consequences deprives them of some of the most valuable lessons they'll ever learn.   I heard a respected child educator promote allowing kids to experience natural consequences whenever possible.  When natural consequences are not acceptable (like what will happen if they run out in the street and get hit by a car!),  substitute "logical" consequences so they learn to stay away from unsafe and unacceptable behavior.  My own kids suffered some sorry consequences of not maintaining and checking their dirt bikes and gear properly for every outing.

Riding OHVs and personal water craft usually require a certain amount of hands-on maintenance out on the trail or at the lake.  It is very helpful to practice some of those skills at home so you learn what needs to be done, how to do it, and what tools you need.  You probably don't want to make a field repair, even something as simple as changing a spark plug, your first attempt.  Much better to try it at at home without a critical audience and when you aren't under pressure to get going.

Practice makes perfect!

Lighting Options for Tent Camping

Unless you pack along a portable generator or stay in a campground with electricity, your lighting options for tent camping will be limited to gas or battery powered units -- or candles and torches.  Alternatively, there are a few vans and SUVs that have built in inverters that power a few 120-volt outlets.  There are small, lightweight generators available today that could be used to power lights and small appliances for tent camping.  Great strides have been made in the last few years in making portable generators smaller, quieter, more fuel efficient, and less expensive making them more appealing to tent campers.  As mentioned above, some SUVs even come with built-in inverters and 120-volt outlets or you may be able to add one to your vehicle.   Low power inverters (100-400 watts)  that plug into the cigarette lighter outlet are available at modest cost and are easy to use.   Just don't try to run high powered electric appliances using them. You can get higher powered inverters in the 1000-3000 watt range but they need to be hard wired using heavy gauge wire and need a lot of battery and/or alternator power to supply their needs.  Running a high powered inverter using just your vehicle battery would quickly run it down.

Gas powered lanterns.  One of the traditional staples of camp lighting for many years has been the Coleman gas lantern.   Powered by white gas or propane, these lanterns give off a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb.  They are relatively inexpensive -- usually under $50 and both white gas, in the form of Coleman fuel, and propane are readily available at most sporting goods stores.   For a little extra $ you can get a dual-fuel lantern that will run on either white gas or ordinary unleaded gasoline.   Dual fuel lanterns are a good choice for use in disaster situations where their flexibility may be a crucial factor.  These lanterns gain their bright white light from glowing "mantles".   These start out as little silk mesh socks but are burned to ash once installed so they tend to be a little fragile.  Always make sure you have plenty of spares for camping and emergencies.   Gas lanterns put out quite a bit of heat and the globes get VERY hot so you need to be careful using them in a tent.  They also consume oxygen and emit toxic fumes so you need adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation.

Kerosene lanterns have fallen out of the popular use they once enjoyed.   They cast a kind of orangish-yellowish light that isn't nearly as bright as a Coleman lantern and some people find the odor of the burning kerosene unpleasant.  If you like the ambiance of a kerosene lantern but want to avoid the odor, try using scented lamp oil or "liquid paraffin".  Citronella scented fuel will even help keep bugs away.  Kerosene lanterns use a simple cotton wick so they aren't as fragile as the white gas and propane lanterns and allows considerable flexibility in controlling the level of light.   Kerosene lanterns are less complicated and less expensive than propane or white gas lanterns. Y ou can usually find them for under $10 at stores like Walmart.  That is a real bargain compared to around $90 for Coleman Dual-Fuel (white gas and unleaded gas)lantern.  A quart of kerosene is about $6.00 where sporting goods are sold but you can use lamp oil or liquid paraffin if you don't like the odor.  You may be able to buy kerosene cheaper in larger quantities at farm and ranch or fuel stores.

I do not recommend using either gas or kerosene lanterns inside a tent if you can avoid it.  The globes get VERY hot and can easily start a fire or melt tent fabric.  They also consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes which can make them unsafe to use in any confined space.  If you must use one in your RV or tent, keep it away from flammable fabrics and make sure you have adequate ventilation.  For safer and more effective tent lighting, use battery powered lanterns or flashlights or glow sticks.  The heat given off by a gas or kerosene lantern can be an advantage if you need to warm up an area like a tent or inside a vehicle.   Just be sure to keep them away from flammable surfaces and make sure you have adequate ventilation!

Candles are another nostalgic source of light but avoid using an open flame inside a tent!   If a candle gets knocked over inside a tent, chances are the fire could rage out of control before you can escape.  Tent fabrics are usually fire resistant but not fire proof.  Citronella candles are helpful around the campsite to keep insects away.   They are a good bet for picnic tables and in the "patio" area under the awning next to your RV -- just don't hang them close to the awning fabric.   If you decide to use candles in your tent, lantern-like candle-holders will be a little safer than a loose candle.

Tiki torches, designed primarily for back yard or patio use, could also be used in camp.   Fuel them with a citronella fuel and they'll also serve to repel insects.   Smaller, wax based torches (kind of like big candles) can be used for a portable light source, but take care not to set the landscape or your fellow campers on fire!   Dripping wax can be a fire  hazard.  Flashlights are a lot safer and a lot easier to use.

A milk jug filled with water with a headlamp type flashlight wrapped around it with the light facing in makes an interesting tent light, as long as you don't knock it over and spill water all over your tent!  The jug and water make an excellent defuser to create a nicely distributed glow.   If you want you could add food coloring to the water to create mood lighting.

I came across some battery powered, remote controlled, LED lights designed for use in above ground swimming pools.   They have magnetic bases to attach to steel wall pools and metal plates that go on the outside of vinyl pools so the magnets can be used to attach them.  This option will work just as well on a tent.  The use of LEDs means the batteries will last longer than with incandescent bulbs and the remote control makes it nice to not have to crawl out of your warm sleeping bag to adjust the lighting.

Glow sticks are useful where bright light is not required or where you must avoid any possible source of ignition.  They can provide sufficient light for dressing and undressing, for walking around camp, and for comfort and general conversation.   They are usually not bright enough for reading or other detailed work.  Glow sticks can not be turned off once they've been activated.  They usually last 4-8 hours.  They have a limited shelf life so storing them for long periods of time isn't feasible. However, I have noticed that old glow sticks seem to still be viable if the packaging is still puffy. If the packaging is flat, they're probably useless.  I have a few glow sticks that expired in 1997 and some of them still worked almost 20 years later.  I have noticed that the ones with deflated foil packages are always dead but the ones that are still puffy usually work.  Foil wrapped glow sticks have a predicted shelf life of 2-4 years.  They should be stored in a cool, dry place.   Dampness can penetrate the plastic tube and will cause chemical deterioration.  These are a good option to include in your emergency supplies.  They are light weight, take up little space, and are safe to use even around fuel spills.  They do not provide bright, reading-light levels of illumination, but are adequate for general lighting for safety and comfort and are certainly sufficient for routine tasks like getting dressed in a tent or finding your way to the bathroom.  A light stick provides a surprising amount of comfort to trapped victims in a natural disaster.  I made tubes to protect them in my fanny pack for dirt biking by cutting and capping PVC pipe to the right length.   Storing them in these nearly air-tight container also seems to extend their shelf life.

Mountain Dew, baking soda, and hydrogen peroxide glow lights have been touted on many web sites including Youtube.   The claim is that by adding hydrogen peroxide and baking soda to Mountain Dew you can make your own glow sticks.   According to snopes.com, this is a hoax. Attempts by many people have failed.  The Youtube "successes", though impressive, are said to be faked.   Don't waste your time or ingredients trying this one.

Tiki torches lend nice ambiance and provide a nice flickering light for many outdoor activities.  You can use citronella scented fuel to help keep insects at bay.  They are great for extending a campfire ambiance over a larger area for night time activities in camp and in the back yard at home.   Take care how you store your torches for transport.  Keep them upright if you can.  If you have to lay them down in a compartment, make sure you drain all the oil first or you'll have a dangerous mess the next time you open the cabinet.   Store them in a well ventilated area.   As the residual fuel in the wick evaporates it can create volatile fumes.

Firelight maintains the ambiance of camping.  A large bonfire might be appropriate for a large group, but normally you don't want to don't make any fire bigger than it needs to be for the number of people it needs to warm and illuminate.   Sometimes several small fires will do a better job of lighting an area and keeping people warm than one big one.   One big fire keeps one side of you warm while the other side freezes.   Standing or sitting between small fires or in a ring of small fires can provide all around warmth.

Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are safe and effective for use in tents and confined spaces.  These days you can get LED lights that use about 1/12 the power of traditional flashlights. The "bulbs" last for tens of thousands of hours and batteries will last 10-12 times as long with LEDs than with ordinary flashlight bulbs.  You can even get lanterns with built-in solar chargers to replenish the batteries during the day and those with remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag.  A handy variation is a combination light, one that provides both a flood light for general illumination and a focused flashlight for focused use.   Depending on the size of the light, it may be powered from anything from AAA to the big square 6-volt batteries. By the way, if you take a square 6-volt dry cell battery apart is is made up of a bunch of AA size batteries.   Something that might come in handy if you run of of AAs during a trip.   If you choose battery powered lanterns, bring plenty of extra batteries on every camping trip -- or switch to rechargeable batteries and bring a generator and charger, a charger to run off your vehicle's cigarette lighter, or a solar charger.  Most rechargeable lanterns come with both 12-volt DC chargers and 120-volt AC chargers.  I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns that look like old fashioned kerosene lanterns but are lit by 17 bright white LEDs and powered by 3 "D" cell batteries.  The LED bulbs are advertised to last 100,000 hours and with the low power draw of LEDs, the batteries will last several nights before needing to be replaced.  I once left one on in my barn over night and it was still going strong for for regular use weeks after that.  And they don't get hot so they are ideal for use to light tents.   A remote control is a nice feature, allowing you to hang the light high in the tent for best illumination but then being able to turn it on and off from the warmth of your sleeping bag.  My favorite tent light is small enough and light enough to be used backpacking.  It is about the size of two or three ball point pens bound together and is powered by 4 AAA batteries.  It easily fits in a shirt pocket.  It has two modes:  a spot light in one end and an area light along one side, making it useful as both a handheld flashlight and an area light inside a tent.

Solar lights.  I've seen solar yard lights at Dollar Tree on several occasions.   We bought some Halloween styled models to light our walkway for Trick-or-Treaters.  You might remove the stake from walkway lights and add a bail to hang them by.   Or you can make a portable base using a can or flowerpot and some beans, glass beads, pebbles, or sand to hold the stake.  Sometimes you will even find solar lights that already have a lantern style bail that is perfect for use in tents and on picnic tables.  These inexpensive solar lights would work well in tents.  They're safe and energy efficient. Just remember to hang them out in the sun during the day to get charged.  Solar walkway lights can be used to illuminate tent stakes and guy ropes and other obstacles so you don't trip over them at night.   I've used them on either side of my RV step on occasion to make it easier to find at night.

Natural lighting is a pleasant option when the moon is full or nearly so.  If you haven't damaged your night vision with artificial light, moonlight is often enough to safely move about camp.  You will be surprised how bright moonlight can be!  Remember, moonlight is reflected sunlight.  A measurement called "albedo" is used for reflectivity.   0 means none, 1 means 100%.  The reflectivity of the moon is 0.12 so it reflects a little more than 10% of the sunlight that strikes it.  Given how bright direct sunlight is, 10% is pretty bright -- enough to hurt your eyes, especially if you attempt to view the moon via a telescope or binoculars.  Relying on natural light is especially helpful if you are engaged in star gazing or using a telescope to view the planets.  Even a relatively small telescope will let you see the rings of Saturn, the red hue of Mars, and the Giant Red Spot on Jupiter.  You can also get a pretty detailed view of the craters on the moon, but you may need filters for that.   The moon is extremely bright when viewed through a telescope or even binoculars.  If you need light to illuminate star maps when star gazing, use a flashlight with a red filter.  It will give you enough light to read the star maps without destroying your night vision and spoiling your view through the telescope.  You may want to remove the rain fly from your tent on clear nights so you can enjoy the view of the moon and stars if your tent itself has see-through netting on top as many double-wall tents do.

Lighten up!

RV Exterior Lighting Options

On road lights on RVs are pretty much regulated by state and federal vehicle laws.  You can usually safely replace clearance markers and may be able to upgrade headlights, but anything used on highway must meet applicable regulations.  That includes driving lights and fog lights.   Many campers like to add powerful off-road lights to their motorhomes or tow vehicles.  Such lights should not be used on the highway.  In most jurisdictions, these lights must also be covered when the vehicle is on the highway.  Remote control search lights are popular on motorhomes and can be a real boon in scoping out your camp site after dark.  Just don't use them on the highway!  If your headlights don't deliver the performance you would like you may be able to upgrade to Halogen or other high intensity lights.  There are even kits to convert your old sealed beam headlights to modern HID  or LED lights that really light up the road.   Just make sure they are DOT approved.   I had a friend who discovered an air craft landing light that would fit in place of one of the sealed beam headlights on his pickup truck.  It really lit up desert roads for him -- until he blinded an on coming Highway Patrolman.  He got a stiff fine and was told to remove the light and never use it again.  You may be able to supplement your headlights with driving lights.   In most places, they can only be legally used on the highway when the headlights are on dim and are usually wired with a relay so they can only be turned on along with the dim headlight setting.  Using them together with your bright lights is a good way to get a fix-it ticket or blind on coming drivers.  In some jurisdictions the law requires you to turn off your driving lights when approaching an on-coming vehicle.  In many places driving lights can only be used in conjunction with low beams.   Always make sure your headlights are clean and clear and in good repair.  A cracked, discolored, or damaged lens will alter the focus and efficiency of your headlights and possible shorten bulb life.  Mud and snow accumulation on the lens will cause a surprising drop in output.  Older, sealed-beam lights that are not damaged only need to be cleaned with window cleaner.  Modern headlights have a polycarbonate lens that become "fuzzy", hazy, or discolored over time.  They can usually be reconditioned for about $35-$50 per pair by a professional service that sands them down and polishes them to make them clear again.  Some of these services add a clear coating when they're done that helps maintain clarity longer than an untreated lens.  You can buy kits to do the cleaning yourself, but be aware the process is somewhat labor intensive and, if you don't don't have the right buffing equipment your results will probably be disappointing.  I found a wet-wipe kit that clears up headlights with little effort.   I have also seen articles that say you can used toothpaste or baking soda or WD40 to clean fogged headlights but haven't tried either one myself yet.  The results are not as long-lasting as buffing and polishing, but they may be good enough and last long enough to pass a state safety inspection.  Ultimately though, you want your headlights to be as clean and clear as possible for as long as possible so you can see where you are going at night!  There are often several options for replacing the bulbs in these style headlights that give you more control over the amount of light.  The best performing and longest lasting bulbs are going to cost more -- perhaps twice as much -- as standard replacement bulbs but it may be an easy way to get better (and legal) on road lighting.   When upgrading bulbs be sure the sockets and fixtures are rated to accommodate the more powerful bulbs.   Using over powered bulbs can damage the plastic lens, the reflector, and could cause the wiring to overheat and perhaps cause a fire.

Wiring is an infamous and chronic cause of poor headlight performance on motorhomes.   The problem is when manufacturers wire the headlights directly through the headlight switch.  Often the wire gauge used is barely adequate (and sometimes inadequate) for the high load headlights draw and the long wiring runs up under the dash and back sap power.  You can often get significant gains by simply installing relays to connect your headlights via heavy gauge wiring directly to the battery -- and control the relays using the original headlight switch and wiring.  That way, the heavy load appears only on heavy duty wiring directly from battery to headlights, instead of lengthy runs up through the headlight switch.  If you're not up to doing the wiring yourself you may be able to purchase ready made harnesses to convert existing switch-wired installations to more efficient relay-based wiring, but even that requires some electrical system knowledge and skills.  Directly wired headlight switches on motorhomes are more prone to failure due to the overloading the contacts because of the extra load created by the longer wiring runs and the high wattage of headlamp bulbs.

There are a variety of off -road lights available that can really light things up for you, ranging from bumper mounted driving light styles to massive roof-mounted light bars.  Your choice may depend on cost, how much light you need, and where you can mount them on your vehicle.  Most of these lights are not approved for highway use and in many jurisdictions must even be covered so they can not be used when the vehicle is on the road.

If you aren't happy with the running lights on your RV you may be able to upgrade both the headlights and the stop/tail lights.   Older incandescent headlights can usually be easily replaced with Halogen versions that are easy to install.  If you really want high performance headlights you can upgrade to HID headlights but it will require a new wiring harness and you might need professional help setting it up.  The kits usually use the original wiring harness and switch to control the new HID headlights but they need relay controlled circuits direct from the battery to run the high powered bulbs.  You may also need to consider whether the existing mounting location can withstand the additional heat produced by HID units.  LED headlights will can usually replaced existing headlights without additional wiring or concerns about excess heat since they draw less current and run cooler.

Recreational lights are usually not restricted as long as they aren't used while on the road.  Most RVs have at least one porch light near the entrance.  A popular form is one that has a built-in assist handle for climbing into the RV.  The better ones have a built-in waterproof switch so you can turn it on and off from outside the vehicle.  Others may require a separate switch, which is usually inside the vehicle.  If you don't like the light that came with your vehicle, you can usually replace it with another one for a nominal cost.  You may also want to add other lights.   I find it useful to have an exterior light on the front of my motorcycle trailer.   It illuminates the tongue and hitch for hooking up at night and gives me light for the work area on and around the tongue.  I have a bench vice mounted on my trailer tongue and a place to mount my motorcycle tire changer so the tongue frequently serves as a workshop.   Extra side-mounted lights can help illuminate your camp site for night time group activities.  Another candidate for extra lighting is the area near any outdoor shower, which are usually on the street side of an RV.  You may find it helpful to mount an indicator light inside your RV for all outside lights.  You can wire an LED in parallel with the lamp or just use a lighted switch.   All you have to do is connect the hot wire of the LED to the hot wire of the lamp and the ground to any available ground.  The small investment in time and money will avoid inadvertently leaving outside lights on and running down your batteries.   Many off highway vehicles (usually 4x4s) have multiple off-road lights mounted on the bumper or front brush guard and or the roof or roll bar.  These lights are great off-road but must never be used on the highway.

Porch lights are common on most RVs, providing illumination for unlocking the door and negotiating the steps after dark.   Unfortunately, the switch is sometimes inside the RV so that you either have to leave the light on while you're away (possibly running down your batteries) or you have to unlock the door in the dark.   A fun solution to this problem is to install a motion sensor LED light that will automatically come on when you approach your RV in the dark.  Often these are battery powered so you don't even have to run any wiring to set them up.  Replacing the incandescent bulb in the porch light with and LED bulb will let you leave the light on without as much chance of running down the batteries since LEDs draw much less power.

Entry step lights are another useful addition.  RV steps are usually painted black and are difficult to see at night.   Even with the porch light on they can be hidden in shadow. Reflective or glow-in-the dark tape can be added to highlight the edge of the steps to make them easier to see.  I use LED clearance lights to illuminate my entry steps so I can leave them on when I'm out without running down the battery.  I've left them on for an entire 4 day outing without running down my batteries.  You want to install them so they illuminate the step but don't shine out into the camp site where they may annoy you or your fellow campers.  Many RVs equipped with electric steps already have step lights.  Unless they are fairly new they are probably incandescent bulbs that will suck up a lot of energy from your batteries.  Replacing them with LED lights should be pretty easy.  Adding a step light will require installing wiring and a switch.  For the most convenience use a switch that is opened when the step is opened.  Installing a simple toggle switch will be easier, but you'll have to remember to turn in on and off.  Battery powered "tap lights" might also be an option for illuminating your steps without draining your main batteries.

Awning lights are a popular and convenient way to add illumination with ambiance to the portable patio next to your RV.  Some fancy models slide right into the awning roller tube. Others have to be attached using clips or hooks that slide into the roller tube or clamp to the awning fabric.  You can even use ID card clips, available most places that sell office supplies.  These spring loaded clips are usually easier to use than the snap-lock type clamps on standard awning clamps.  You can get a variety of light styles.  Some popular ones I've seen include miniature Coleman lanterns, American Flags, chili peppers, and colorful coach-light style lanterns.  Most require 120-volt power but some newer LED versions will run on 12 volts.  Remember, LEDs use a tiny fraction of the power of standard incandescent bulbs so if you're dry camping or just worried about draining battery power, look for LED versions.   I recently watched the installation of a fancy 7-color LED rope light under an RV awning.  It even has a remote control so you can change the color, speed, and pattern of light from the comfort of your easy chair.  It is a really neat addition but at the time it was a bit pricey -- about $100 plus installation, but I've seen some knock-off on the market around $30 since then.

Exterior cabinet lights are a real boon when you have to find something in the dark.  The most convenient ones come on automatically when you open the cabinet door but they require special switches.  You can easily install lights with built-in switches -- they might be wired into the vehicle's 12-volt system or be battery powered.  Batter powered "stick anywhere" lights can be found at hardware and building supply stores and don't need any wiring.  Just make sure you check the batteries before each trip.  If you're not using automatic switches, you'll have to remember to turn the lights off before you close the cabinet.   Otherwise you are sure to forget they are on and run down the batteries.  You might even want to wire in an indicator that is visible from the outside so you can tell when the lights are left on.  Using an illuminated switch is an easy way to do this without extra lights and wiring.  The switch itself is lighted whenever the switch is on.

General campground illumination.  You may want to bring along some portable Halogen work lights for lighting up your camp site at night.  The ones I use have folding, tripod stands that are very stable and highly adjustable.  Of course you need 120-volt AC power to run them but I managed to find one that has a 12-volt option as well as the normal 120-volt power cord.  Another option is lights equipped with spring clamps so you can clamp them to awning arms, mirrors, trees, sign posts, fences, OHVs, tables, etc.  Incandescent versions of these are inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store or home center and you could put LED bulbs in them to reduce power requirements.  And don't forget the old camp standard: the Coleman lantern.  White gas or propane powered lanterns provide bright white light about like a 100-watt bulb.  For a more rustic atmosphere, try some old fashioned kerosene lanterns.   If you don't like the smell of kerosene lanterns you can run them on scented lamp oil or unscented "liquid paraffin".  Nowadays there are also many choices for battery powered lanterns, including many LED lanterns that minimize battery drain.   Of course a primary source of traditional camp site is the camp fire.  Once you have a good campfire going you may not need any other lighting for many activities.

Searchlights and spotlights.   Roof mounted remote control search lights are popular on high-end motorhomes.  They usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings.  The spot setting is used to illuminate distant objects like signs and landmarks.  The flood setting can be used for general camp site illumination.  Manually operated spotlights on cars and pickup trucks were once pretty popular, but are quite rate these days.   Still, they can provide light up signs and landmarks to help you find your way to a remote camp at night.  They might also be used during nighttime search and rescue operations.  Hand held spotlights, both 12-volt versions that plug into your cigarette lighter and rechargeable models can approximate the function of permanently mounted spotlights without the expense or effort of what is often a difficult installation.

Creative lighting solutions.  One of my motorhomes came with a pair of bright 120-volt flood lights mounted on the curb side to illuminate the campground.  I didn't want to have to run the generator just to light things up and I wasn't very fond of poking more holes in the wall and cluttering up the outside of the RV with additional lights.  My solution: mount 12-volt light bulbs inside the existing 120-volt fixtures.   I bought a pair of 55-watt driving lights and cannibalized the sockets and bulbs from them and mounted them inside the existing 120-volt fixtures.   I then pushed the wiring through the same hole as the original wiring and hooked it up to conveniently located new switches inside. That allowed me to run the lights on either 120-volts or 12-volts as the situation demands.  For additional general campground illumination I mounted a 500-watt Halogen light on about a 5' piece of conduit connect to an old telescoping aluminum tent pole.   I clamped PVC pipe sleeves to the RV ladder.  When I need extra, broad-area lighting for group activities, I slide the tent pole through the pipe sleeves and plug the cord into an outside outlet on my RV. With the light raised about 4-5' above the roof of the RV, it provides very good general illumination for group activities.   I also mounted a simple 12-volt utility light under the hood so I could see to check the oil after dark.  It is an easy, inexpensive, and useful addition. I f you want to be really fancy you can even use a mercury or gravity switch on the hood so the light comes on automatically when you open the hood, like it does on many well-equipped automobiles.   This is another spot that is a prime candidate for an inexpensive battery powered LED "tap light".   I recently picked up a magnetic mount, battery operated light, with a remote control designed for use in above ground swimming pools.   I figure it can be attached to any metal surface, such as my truck or limited components on my RV to provide general illumination for nighttime activities. It came with a metal plate for use on Doughboy type pools that would also allow it to be installed on a tent.

Portable lights add a lot of flexibility for camp ground use.  I've tried a number of high-output battery powered spotlights, including rechargeable versions.  Some of these send out a pencil-thin beam with a range up to a mile!  There are also 12-volt versions that plug into your vehicle cigarette lighter or other 12-volt receptacle.   I always keep several ordinary flashlights in my RV and trailer.  I like to have a variety of sizes.  Full 2,3, or even 5-cell flashlights are good for many routine tasks. Smaller 3" LED lights are useful in close quarters or if you need to tuck one in your pocket to light your way back to your RV after an evening stroll if you get back late.  The big 5 D-cell lights double as tire-thumpers and would also be an effective self-defense device.

There are a variety of lantern holders that can be used to hang your gas or battery lanterns around camp.  Some are made of chain that can be wrapped around trees; some are designed to clamp to or hang from your RV awning.  I found some that consist of a tube that attaches to the side of your RV and contains a hook that slides out and connects to the top of the tube to create an arm on which to hang your lantern.   Check out the options at your favorite RV or camping store.  You might want to try out several styles.  They usually are not very expensive.  The ones designed to attach to trees usually have a light weight chain that wraps around the tree to hold the lantern hook in place.  They work well on trees and wooden poles, but usually don't cling well to metal poles.  Hangers for awnings are likely to slide into the accessory slot in the awning rail or clamp to the rafters.  Always be careful hanging a gas lantern from your awning as they generate a lot of heat, enough to damage awning fabric if left on too long.  Monitor prevailing breezes to make sure they aren't blowing the heat back under your awning or against the side of your tent or RV.

Light it up!