RVs have many systems and appliances that mimic their residential counterparts to some extent. They are a large part of the conveniences and comforts that make RVing attractive to so many of us. However, there are some differences between RV and residential systems you should be aware of. Knowing and respecting the differences can avoid frustration, poor experiences, and premature equipment failure.
RV Water systems are usually designed to approximate the comforts of home as closely as possible,but they have their limitations. The most basic system found in old time truck campers and small travel trailers had a single, manually operated faucet to deliver water to the sink from a jug or storage tank in the cabinet underneath. Waste water from the sink drained directly out through a pipe through the side of the camper and had to be collected in a bucket and carried away to be dumped. More advanced RVs have pressurized or electrically powered water systems and hot water heaters that literally provide hot and cold running water at multiple fixtures throughout the unit at the twist of a faucet, pretty much like at home. Waste is usually collected in holding tanks so you don't have to think very much about it -- until it is time to dump the tanks. With judicious use of water, these systems will provide performance near that which we expect at home. You probably won't have the pressure or flow you have at home, but it is usually adequate. However, we do need to consider that our water supplies are limited when dry camping and ration water usage to make sure we have enough to last the entire trip. Don't waste water by letting it run when you're not actually using it. Wet your hands, then turn off the water while you scrub. Then turn it back on to rinse. Same with the shower. Letting it run while you're lathering up just turns precious fresh water into sewage for no reason. Maintaining your fresh water system mostly consists of filling it before each trip. If it begins to develop a bad taste or bad odor it may need to be flushed and sanitized. There are additives you can put into your fresh water tank to help keep it fresh, but unless you fill it with contaminated water at some point, just rinsing it out and refilling it should usually be all that is necessary. Most city water supplies are already chlorinated so when you fill your fresh water tank from home or another city water source, it already contains some protection against bacteria. If you fill it from a private well with no chlorination you might want to add a little household bleach to sanitize it, but don't add too much! It shouldn't have a bleach odor at any of the fixtures. If it does, you've used too much. Drain and refill the tank. You don't need a lot of bleach to do the job. For example, the residue left in an empty gallon bleach container after it has been completely emptied is enough to protect all the water it can hold. That amounts to just a few drops per gallon. A few tablespoons of bleach, perhaps half a cup at most, should be enough for most RV fresh water tanks. If you can taste or smell chlorine at any faucet or in your drinking water, you've used too much bleach. You should only smell bleach at the faucets when you are sanitizing the system, not after you've flushed it and refilled it for use.
Most modern RVs have fresh water systems powered by a 12-volt water pump. The pump includes a pressure switch that automatically turns it off when there is no demand. Sometimes the frequent cycling of the pump can be annoying. An accumulator tank can reduce how often the pump has to run. This can extend pump life as well as reduce the annoying noise. Not all pumps are compatible with accumulator tanks so check whether your's is before adding one. The water pump will also have an on/off switch. If you don't get water from your RV faucets, make sure the water pump is turned on. If the switch is on, check the fuse. Also make sure there is water in the tank. If the pump runs continuously but you don't get any water the tank is probably empty. If you get water at some fixtures but not others, the problem may be a clogged fixture. Many faucets have an external screen and flow control device mounted in the very end of the fixture. You can usually unscrew the end of the faucet and clean these to restore flow. If that doesn't work, check for kinked, flattened, or broken pipes or tubing. RV water pumps come in a variety of sizes and styles. If you add or replace your pump, make sure you get one that is rated for your application. Some pumps are designed to supply a single fixture. Larger RVs will have multi-fixture rated pumps designed to supply water to more than one fixture at once. I've tried several different styles of RV water pumps, ranging from single-fixture self-contained pumps to large pumps with external motors and belts. I have gotten the most satisfactory performance from multi-fixture Flojet diaphragm style pumps. Typical RV water pumps deliver about 3 gallons per minute, enough for most activities but sometimes a little anemic for showers. Some systems include an accumulation tank to reduce cycling the pump every time you open a faucet. Some pumps are not designed for use with an accumulation tank, so check the specs on yours before arbitrarily adding one. If you are using campground hook ups, make sure the faucet is turned on and the hose connecting your RV to the faucet isn't kinked or flattened. I've seen RVers park with a tire on their own water hose and then wonder why they aren't getting any water. Speaking of water hoses, use only those designated for use with potable water or drinking water and make sure they don't create a trip hazard between you RV and the faucet. Roll out enough hose so it will lay flat between the faucet and the RV. Roll up excess hose and store it under the RV. This helps keep it out of the sun to prevent heating up the cold water as well as keeping it out of the way. Some enterprising RVers even put their hose inside a soft-side cooler pouch to further protect it from unwanted heat.
Water filters will help ensure your water is clean and palatable. You can use an inline filter when filling your fresh water tank or when connected to a campground faucet. Some RVs have permanently installed water filters in the plumbing where water from both the city water inlet and the water pump have to pass through it before going to the fixtures. In line filters are fairly inexpensive and easy to use but don't last very long and might not have the same ability to filter out contaminates (such as heavy metals) as larger filters. The in line filters are usually about 2" in diameter and a little over a foot long, with hose connections on each end. Connect the female fitting to the faucet and the then connect your potable water hose to the male fitting on the other end. Water filters designed for RV use are available at RV supply stores like Camping World, but many people have had good luck (and spent less money) using residential filters from a home center or hardware store. If you have a permanent filter on your RV, be sure to remember to drain it for winterization and to check and replace the cartridges as needed. Some luxury motorhomes have very fancy filters with features like reverse osmosis that ensure REALLY pure water, but they tend to be rather expensive and take up valuable space. You can use residential style filters in-line by adding appropriate hose fittings. Because they are kind of large and bulky you may need to stand them a crate to keep them from falling over. This will allow you to have properly filtered water without the difficulty or expense of permanently installing the filters. Sometimes there simply isn't any room to install permanent filters.
Pressurized water systems were used on many older travel trailers, truck campers, and even some motorhomes. The water tank on these units will be made of stainless steel instead of plastic. You fill them by attaching a garden hose like you would for a city water connection. As they fill the tank, the air in the tank is compressed and the system is pressurized and water will flow from the fixtures until the pressure fails. These systems are equipped with a Schrader valve (like a tire stem) where you can add pressure and some have auxilary air pumps to restore pressure between fill ups. In a pinch, you can attach a manual tire pump or air compressor (or gas station air hose) to the Schrader valve and add pressure. Don't over do it. You only need enough pressure to make the water flow. Over-filling can damage the plumbing.
City water hookups allow you to connect a potable water rated hose to a campground faucet. If the pressure and flow are adequate, you'll have residential quality water service in your RV. Kinks in the hose and debris in the filter-screen or aging and failing plumbing in the campground can seriously reduce performance. Always use a pressure regulator to protect your hose and your RV plumbing from unexpected high pressure surges. Why do you need a "potable water rated" hose? Ordinary garden hoses can leech a plastic taste into your water, especially when it is exposed to the heat of lying in the sun when no water is flowing. Potable water hoses are usually white or light blue to make it easy to distinguish them from the garden hose you might use to flush your holding tanks.
Many RVs use polybutylene (PB) pipe for fresh water lines. This a semi-rigid gray pipe that resembles plastic electrical conduit but is smaller and somewhat more flexible. Generally it gives pretty good service and is even said to resist freezing but occasionally there may still be problems. The most common source of leaks are the joints. The pipe itself may be damaged by nails, screws, abrasion, vibration, or freezing. The original connectors used for PB pipe are no longer manufactured, but certain PEX connectors can be used to replace leaking or damaged joints. One of the easiest to use is the Flair-it brand of compression fittings. Another alternative is a brass fitting called Sharkbytes. Flair-it straight connectors might be used to repair damaged sections of PB pipe. No matter what you use, proper preparation and installation is essential to ensure a leak free repair. Start by carefully cutting away the damaged components. There are specialized cutting tools for PB that are similar to those for PVC pipe. Lacking that you may be able to cut the pipe with a hacksaw. In close quarters one of the cable saws designed for cutting PVC pipe might do the trick. Make your cut as square as you can to ensure a leak-free repair. Any time you're sawing through the pipe you will likely end up with ground up plastic inside and outside the pipe. About the only way to get it out of the inside is to flush it out with water or blow it out with compressed air. Residue on the outside should be wiped away before installing the new fitting. Remove the nut from the fitting and side it onto the pipe, taking care to keep the open end where the threads are toward the place the fitting will be installed. Press the fitting onto the pipe, then slide the nut in place and tighten it. When the repair is complete, pressurize the line and look for any leaks. Sometimes simply tightening the fitting a little more may take care of the problem, but be sure not to over-tighten the nut which may break or otherwise damage the connection. Some folks have had success using modern PEX piping for repairs. For best results, look for special fittings that adapt PEX to PB.
Sanitation systems are the second component that allow us to have residential style fixtures in our RVs. Plumbing is similar to that in our homes, but the waste is captured in holding tanks. Water from sinks and sometimes the bath or shower goes into a gray water tank. Toilet waste goes into a black water tank. Sometimes the shower is also fed into the black water tank. This is done for two reasons: 1) increase the liquid in the black water tank to facilitate decomposition and dumping and 2) reduce filling the gray water tank. Residential systems are typically attached to city sewer lines (or septic tanks in rural areas) and we usually don't have to worry too much about over-filling them. RV holding tanks have very limited capacities and we definitely DO have to worry about over filling. An over filled gray water tank is an annoyance and inconvenience. An over filled black water tank is a serious problem, one that is VERY unpleasant and can create serious health hazards inside and outside your RV. Minimize holding tank usage whenever you can by taking advantage of fixed facilities in campgrounds and by limiting water use while dry camping. Black water tanks need to be regularly dumped and rinsed and treated with appropriate chemicals to keep them healthy. The chemicals help break down solid wastes and control odors. Gray water tanks usually only need to be dumped and thoroughly rinsed. However, over time an accumulation of food particles from washing dishes and from soap residue may cause odors in the gray water tank. If this happens, add some of the same holding tank chemicals you use for the black water tank to the gray water tank or buy special gray water treatment chemicals. It shouldn't take nearly as much as the black water tank to be effective.
Sewer system problems can be annoying and even unhealthy. Make sure your dump valves are completely closed and the cap is securely in place. Some dump valves hang down low behind the rear wheels and are sometimes subject to being damaged going in and out of driveways or by other obstacles you may encounter on rough or unpaved roads. Be aware of where your dump valves are and take care to avoid obstacles that might damage them. If you get some seepage through the dump valves you will need to replace the seals or the entire valves. You may notice drips from the capped dump port or you might not notice the problem until you remove the cap to dump the tanks. If the valves have been leaking, removing the cap can deliver a very unpleasant surprise, especially if it is the black water thank that was leaking! Always remove the cap slowly and carefully. Be sure the port is over the dump station sump or place a bucket or plastic dishpan under the port when removing the cap. Catching any spillage will avoid a messy clean up that you'll face if the crap flows onto the ground. Occasionally you may experience a minor drip from a loose connection on one of the sewer pipes. Sometimes the connections are secured by hose clamps and simply tightening the hose clamp may solve the problem. If there are no clamps or if tightening the clamps doesn't solve the problem you may need to have the problem diagnosed and repaired by a qualified RV technician. Any repairs beyond tightening clamps can only be done when the tanks are empty, so it is necessary to find a way to dump the tanks before attempting repairs. Faulty dump valves can usually be rebuilt or replaced by any fairly competent home mechanic. Replacing the seals solves most problems unless the valve body itself is cracked or the handle is broken. Broken components will require complete replacement of the valves. To replace the seals, remove and disassemble the valves. Remove the old seals and carefully clean the grooves in the valve before installing the new seals. Warming the new seals in hot water prior to installation may make it easier to fit and form them into place. Take care when reassembling the valves to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the new seals. More common than leaks are odor problems. Proper dumping and rinsing of holding tanks and use of appropriate chemicals will prevent most problems. If you smell sewer odors when driving with the windows open, try closing the windows. Sometimes air passing over the windows will create a partial vaccum inside the RV, drawing odors up through the toilet or the plumbing. Make sure you have a water seal in the toilet (keep the deep well of the toilet about half full). Another common source of odors from the gray water tank is a relief valve. If the odors are strongest inside a bathroom or kitchen cabinet, the relief valve is probably the source. It is supposed to be a one-way valve to allow air into the drains to avoid sucking all the water out of the P-traps. If the valve gets stuck open it can allow odors to waft back up into the unit. A stuck valve can sometimes be cleared by lightly tapping the valve body, but take care not to hit it too hard. It is made of plastic and if you crack it you'll have more than unpleasant odors to deal with. If light tapping doesn't solve the problem you may have to replace the valve. If you are familiar with PVC plumbing you should be able to cut out the old valve and plumb in a new one. If you aren't comfortable with how to do this, have it done by a qualified RV technician.
Full hookups in an RV park can be confusing to some people. New users often think they can simply hook up the sewer hoses and use the facilities as if they were at home. It doesn't work that way, especially in the black water system for the toilet. If the dump valves are left open, liquid drains away and solid wastes in either the gray or black water systems, can get left behind, creating deposits that affect performance and create foul odors. When using hookups, fill your tanks about 1/2 to 3/4 full before opening the valves and dumping them. That usually provides enough pressure and flow to flush out solid wastes as well as giving holding tank chemicals time to break them down. It is especially important to keep the black water valve closed until the tank is about half full. Otherwise the crap may pile up on the bottom of the tank and eventually clog the toilet! Some people leave the gray water valve open, but it makes more sense to me to also leave it closed until to time to dump so it can flush the hose after dumping the black water tank.
You RV toilet looks a lot like the one at home, but there are significant differences. First, instead of a tank that stores 3-5 gallons of water for flushing, it flushes with water sprayed directly into the bowl from the fresh water supply. This saves a lot of water, but it sometimes means you need to take a little extra time to clean the bowl. Keep a toilet brush handy or even a stick you can use to wipe; use toilet paper on the stick to wipe down the surfaces. This simple task will help keep your toilet cleaner and odor free. An RV toilet is usually flushed by a foot pedal instead of a lever. The foot lever opens the door in the bottom of the toilet and activates the water flow. Press it all the way down to allow waste to drop into the holding tanks. You have to learn to balance conserving water with using enough so that solids don't build up under the toilet. I suggest that, as a minimum, fill the hole in the bottom of the toilet before flushing any solids. If you find you're getting build up below the toilet, use more water. Holding it down part way will allow water to continue to flow after the door is closed so you can clean the bowl and leave a few inches of water in the well at the bottom to ensure a seal against holding tank odors. Cleaning the toilet can be done much as you would at home, but most RV toilets are made of plastic instead of china so avoid caustic cleaners and harsh cleansers. Soft-scrub cleansers, like BonAmi and Barkeepers Friend, are OK for stubborn stains, but don't rub too much. If you do you'll damage the surface and the stains will get worse over time. You might also try cleaning discolored toilets and toilet seats with a paste made from vinegar and soda. The seal on the door in the bottom needs to be cleaned periodically too. Shut off the water supply (turn off the pump or shut off the faucet for the city water connection). Press the flushing pedal all the way down and carefully clean the seal. Some new toilets come with a specially designed brush. If you don't have one, an old toothbrush or grout brush can be used. I have seen people clean the groove in the seal using a bent coat hanger. If you have to resort to this method, make sure there are no sharp edges on the wire and be VERY careful not to damage the seal. Clean the edges of the sliding door as well and make sure there is no debris in the seal or on the door before you close/release the pedal. You may need a helper to turn on the water for you for rinsing before you release the pedal. If you don't have a helper, prepare ahead by bringing a bottle or pitcher of water to use for rinsing. The plastic lid on RV toilets are subject to fading and discoloration. Fellow RVers have offered a number of tips for keeping them looking good. Routine cleaning with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be a good preventative measure. For those that are too faded to be cleaned, you might restore the finish by painting the lid with vinyl plastic paint, available in hardware stores and home centers. Be sure to remove and previous waxes or other coatings and prepare the surface according the instructions on the can. Cracked or broken lids and seats should be replaced although small fractures might sometimes be successfully repaired using plastic-solvent type glue, a process known as chemical welding.
Most RV water heaters function very much like residential heaters but are much smaller. Homes typically have one or more 50 gallon water heaters. Most RVs have single units with a capacity of 6 to 10 gallons. There are also "on demand" heaters that can provide continuous hot water, but they are not typical. Ordinary tank style heaters can be replaced with tankless, on demand heaters, but they are relatively expensive --at least 2 or 3 times the cost of a standard replacement heater. Most all RV water heaters run on propane. Some have auxiliary electric heating elements to help reduce propane consumption when connected to shore power or running the generator. Some have instant water heaters that quickly heat water on demand instead of keeping a tank of water heated. Instant water heaters may run on propane or electricity. Two advantages of instant water heaters are 1) they only consume energy when there is a demand for hot water and 2) they can deliver a continuous supply of hot water as long as there is water and energy to run them. Some RVs use hot water from the engine to pre-heat the water in the hot water heater. Its a really useful feature, but not often found. The primary maintenance for tank style water heaters is to make sure the burner is clean and properly adjusted. The flame should be large and blue. If it sputters or is yellow, the burner needs to be cleaned and/or adjusted. Most RV water heaters have a sacrificial rod mounted on the inside of the drain plug. This rod is designed to absorb the chemical action that would corrode the tank. It should be checked periodically and replaced when 75% of the material is gone. The biggest difference between RV and home water heaters is capacity so you'll need to ration or limit hot water usage. Do NOT waste water, especially hot water, rinsing dishes. Wipe them off with paper towels or used paper napkins or old newspaper before washing. Don't waste water by letting it just run while washing your hands, brushing your teeth, or showering. Turn it on only when needed to get wet or to rinse off soap. Don't let it run while you are shampooing or scrubbing. One trick is to save water in a plastic dishpan while running the shower to get it warm and use that for other tasks, such as rinsing dishes. Some innovative motorhome manufacturers connect the heater hoses from the engine to pre-warm the hot water tank during travel. Kind of a clever idea. You pretty much always have hot water on the road and when you arrive at camp -- and at no additional energy cost! If you live where you get freezing weather, a water heater bypass system will simplify winterization and save 6-10 gallons of antifreeze. Just remember to turn the valves back to normal before you try to use the water heater again next spring. You could damage the water heater if you turn it on when it is empty.
RV stoves may or may not include an oven. They work very much like residential gas stoves only smaller. They may have from 1 to 4 burners. Some have electronic ignition systems but many have to be lit with a match or lighter. Light your match or lighter first and then hold it near the burner while turning on the gas. Turning on the gas first may release excess gas into the living space, resulting in an explosion when you attempt to light the stove. Some RV cook tops keep a pilot light going after you shut off the burner so you can restart the burner without needing a match or lighter. If yours has pilot lights, make sure the pilot lights are out before filling the gas or propane tank. RV ovens are smaller than the ones at home and usually lack the timers often found on residential ovens. Keep the size in mind when purchasing your Thanksgiving turkey to make sure it will fit! Maintenance mostly consists of cleaning the stove top, burners, and oven. The oven can be cleaned with ordinary household oven cleaner. Use an all-purpose household cleaner on the stove top. If you have stubborn deposits, be careful not to damage the surface by rubbing too hard with steel wool or plastic scrubbers. "0000" steel wool works pretty well on stainless steel if used carefully but can easily damage painted or porcelain surfaces. Better to apply a strong cleaner and let it soak for a while. Make sure all the openings around the burner are kept clean. Clogged openings will significantly reduce burner function and efficiency. Not only will this increase cooking times and gas consumption, it may create unhealthy fumes. By the way, you may have heard you can clean and polish stainless steel appliances with vegetable oil. Don't do it! It may leave nice shine when you put it on but it soon becomes a rancid residue that will be difficult to remove. If someone in your household has already done this, it will take a strong kitchen degreaser and a lot of elbow grease to get back down to the native shine. I picked up some all purpose wipes at my local dollar store that also worked pretty well, but it still takes a lot of elbow grease to get that crap off.
Microwave/convection ovens are quite popular in modern RVs. In most cases they are essentially the same as residential units, but may be smaller than the one you're used to at home. They require 120-volt AC power so you need to be connected to shore power or have your generator running or have an inverter and a massive battery bank to use them. Maintenance consists mostly of keeping them clean, same as at home. They will NOT function well on low voltage, which is often a common problem in older campgrounds or if the on board generator isn't adjusted properly. They may not function properly on cheap inverters that use "modified sine wave" power. Units designed for RV use will generally last longer than residential units installed in RVs. They are usually designed to withstand vibration and power fluctuations common in RVs better than residential models. Some microwaves come with special RV installation kits that make them more suitable. The installation kits usually include baffles to help vent heat properly and a facia that both holds the oven in place and give it a nice, finished appearance.
RV refrigerators are usually gas absorption models. They operate differently from home models that typically use electrically powered compressors to power the cooling units. You may find it curious that your RV refrigerator is actually cooled by a flame! Unlike a compressor driven system, it has no moving parts. If you really want to know how that works, look up "absorption refrigeration" on Google or Yahoo. Some large luxury motorhomes these days use a regular residential refrigerator. That means you have to be connected to park power or running your generator to use them, unless you they run off of an inverter backed up by a HUGE battery bank. Your RV fridge should function pretty much like the one at home to make ice, keep frozen foods frozen, and keep perishable foods at a safe temperature. To take best advantage of your RV fridge and avoid things inside it getting too warm, limit opening the door(s) as much as possible. There are cooling fans that can be added to increase the efficiency of the outside coils and fans to help circulate air inside the unit. I like using a solar-powered outside fan since it doesn't draw any battery power. You can buy replacement roof vents for most refrigerators that include a solar powered exhaust fan. There are also battery-powered fans (brand name Fridge-Mate) to circulate the air inside the fridge. These are available both as self-contained units powered by a couple of "D" batteries and as hard-wired units that connect to your RV's 12-volt power supply. Don't over-pack your fridge. If things are too tightly packed, the air cannot circulate and you will have hot and cold spots -- some items in the fridge may freeze while others spoil. Just like your hot water heater, the burner assembly needs to be kept clean and properly adjusted. The burner assembly is accessed through an exterior panel behind the refrigerator. Most modern RV refrigerators have electronic ignitions controlled by a computer board. Older models may have a pilot light that must be manually ignited. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when lighting pilot lights. Failing to do so can result in fire and/or explosion. My father-in-law lost his eyebrows and his enthusiasm for camping when he tried re-lighting a pilot light too quickly. If you find your fridge isn't keeping things cold enough check the temperature setting knob and turn it to a colder setting. If there is a lot of frost buildup you'll need to defrost the unit to improve efficiency. Minimize opening the door and let hot foods cool before you put them inside. Poor performance and excessive frost build up may indicate a bad door seal. Close a one dollar bill or similar paper in the door at various places all around. If it falls out or comes out without any resistance, the seal may be faulty. You should be able to feel a little resistance when you try to pull it out if the seal is closing correctly. Replacement seals are available for most RV refrigerators.
Defrosting your RV refrigerator. Most RV refrigerators are not frost free and will need defrosting periodically, especially at the end of a trip when you store your RV again. How quickly frost develops depends on several factors, including humidity, how much high moisture food you put in it, and how often the door is opened and for how long. Avoid opening the door or keeping it open when you can. That will reduce frost in the freezer and preserve the temperature in the refrigerator cabinet for better performance too. If the frost in the freezer compartment gets to be 1/4" deep or thicker, you need to defrost it to ensure proper performance. NEVER use sharp tools to scrape away the frost. You can puncture the cooling lines. If you smell ammonia, you have a leak in the cooling system. That will probably require having the entire cooling system replaced. Don't use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the frost in your freezer compartment. It can melt plastic and even warp metal parts. Allow it to defrost gradually. Check for frost often and won't wait until it gets much beyond 1/4" before defrosting. The task will be faster and easier and your fridge will work better. Keep an eye on the "run off" as the frost melts. It should be caught in a tray beneath the freezer compartment. If it overflows, you're going to have a mess! If you need to accelerate melting, place a pan of warm water in the freezer compartment.
RV Furnaces operate pretty much the same as your home furnace but they are limited by availability of both propane and 12-volt electric power. Most modern RV furnaces have electronic ignition systems so all you have to do is turn on the switch and set the thermostat. Some older units have pilot lights you have to light manually. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when lighting pilot lights. My father-in-law burned off his eye brows when trying to light the furnace in an older motorhome when he became impatient and tried re-lighting too soon instead of waiting the recommended 5 minutes between attempts. Fortunately his eyebrows and his ego were the only casualties of his experience. Others have not been so lucky and have lost their RVs and even their lives. Some older units may be "convection" furnaces that don't have 12-volt fans. They don't distribute the heat as effectively but they don't run your batteries down either. RV furnaces require little routine maintenance. Make sure all the vents are kept clear -- outside vents supply air to the burner and allow the hot byproducts of combustion to escape. Inside vents deliver warm air throughout the RV. Any blocked vent can have a negative effect on both furnace efficiency, performance, and safety. If you wake up in the middle of the night and your furnace fan is running constantly but blowing cold air, you may have run out of propane or, interestingly enough, your batteries may be low. When the batteries get low, the electronic controls don't work right and the fan will continue to run after the burner has shut off and further deplete your batteries. If this happens on a regular basis you need to upgrade your battery bank, reduce your furnace use, or add some auxiliary heat.
RV Air conditioning systems may include both dash and roof A/C units. Dash air in a motorhome (or tow vehicle) is the same as that in your car and runs off the vehicle engine. Dash air in a motorhome provides comfort for the driver and copilot while on the road but is not enough to cool the entire coach. Roof A/C units run off 120-volt electric power, from campgrounds or your on board generator. Traditionally these blow cold air directly into the coach interior through adjustable vents on the inside face plate of the unit. More recently, ducted versions have come into usage that direct the cold air more efficiently to various parts of the RV. No matter which style you have, you will want to minimize the load to conserve energy and maximize comfort. Keep doors and windows closed. Keep drapes, curtains, or shades closed. Use reflective foam insulation to cover windows and windshields to keep out heat and sunlight. A/C maintenance mainly consists of cleaning the inside filters (most units have an easily accessible foam pad behind the vents) and keeping the outside condenser fins (looks like a silver radiator) clean and straight. Bent or dirty fins can restrict airflow and decrease efficiency and performance. Some older units have motor bearings that need to be oiled but most modern systems have sealed bearings. You can run your generator and use your roof A/C while traveling to maintain comfort on the road.
An alternative to air conditioning sometimes found in RVs is an evaporative cooler. They are lighter than 120-volt A/C units and run solely on 12-volt power -- plus water. Be aware they don't work well in high humidity or when the outside temperature is below about 85°F. The water reservoir in some models is subject to spilling over during sharp turns and dousing the occupants. If that happens about all out can do is turn off the water supply and drain the reservoir so it is empty while traveling -- and forgo the cooling.
12-volt electrical systems power most of the lights and appliances inside your RV. Your furnace fan and water pump both run on 12-volt electric power. This power comes from three sources: your RV automotive alternator, 12-volt batteries, or via the converter from 120-volt power via your shore cable or your RV generator. One other option is solar panels. Motorhomes are usually set up with two battery systems: one for starting the vehicle engine and a second bank of one or more batteries to power the coach. Both sets of batteries are charged by the vehicle alternator when the engine is running. The house batteries in a travel trailer may be charged by the vehicle alternator if the trailer connection is wired for it. If you have a trailer and/or tow vehicle without this feature, it can be added at a modest cost. Anytime you have two battery systems there should be a battery isolator to allow the vehicle alternator to charge both systems but to prevent the coach from drawing down the starting battery. I have seen motorhomes with three or more batteries: a vehicle starting battery (or battery bank), a generator starting battery, and a coach battery bank, but most have just two: vehicle and coach. A nice feature is an "Emergency Start" switch that temporarily connects both systems together. This can be used to start the generator if the coach batteries are too discharged to do it or to start the engine if the starting battery is weak. When you have multiple battery banks you should have a battery isolator to keep the battery banks from scavenging power from each other but still allowing all batteries to be charged by the vehicle alternator. The battery isolator allows current to flow from the alternator to all the batteries, but keeps the load for each battery bank separate so you don't run down your starting battery using 12-volt lights and appliances in your coach. Maintenance of your 12-volt system will focus on keeping the batteries and connections in good condition and fully charged. See my previous post on Battery Maintenance for particulars. There will usually be one or more 12 volt outlets where you can plug in fans, phone chargers, and other accessories. If you don't have any, or they are not conveniently located, you can usually add them as needed.
120-volt electric systems power a variety of things in our RVs. 120-volt power comes from your shore power cord when hookups are available or from your on board generator when boondocking or on the road. Roof A/C systems are the primary system that runs directly on 120-volt power. 120-volt power also feeds the converter that converts it to 12-volt power to run lights, etc. Most converters also have a battery charger circuit that helps recharge RV batteries, but these chargers are not usually very powerful or efficient. It is often better to buy an automatic automotive style charger and set it up to charge your batteries whenever you have 120-volt power available. Some advanced converters and inverters have good multi-stage chargers that do a much better job of re-charging and maintaining batteries. A third source of limited 120-volt power is the inverter. This a device that converts 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power. There are small, portable inverters that plug into a 12-volt, cigarette lighter type receptacle, and if they are of an appropriate capacity and the vehicle wiring is adequate can power radios, computers, etc. Larger units, up to say, 2000 watts, are permanently mounted in some RVs and can power larger 120-volt equipment and appliances. Just remember they are drawing down your batteries, so unless you have a HUGE house battery bank, you can run your batteries down rather quickly using inverter power. I would definitely NOT recommend using inverter power to run 120-volt lights. It would be very inefficient. It is handy to run a can opener, blender, or hand mixer for a short time, when you don't want to or can't run your generator. TVs and other entertainment systems usually draw too much power for it to be practical to run them off an inverter for extended periods unless your battery bank was specifically designed to meet that kind of power demand but they can be handy for short periods of use. If your motorhome or trailer is not equipped with an on-board generator there are portable generators you can purchase, if you have room to transport them. One possible advantage to a portable unit over an on-board generator may be the ability to move the generator some distance from the coach to reduce noise and exhaust pollution inside. Just make sure you aren't intruding into someone else's space!
Some large luxury RVs have even more residential style appointments, such as dishwasher, trash compactors. ice makers, washer/dryer setups, and refrigerators. Usually the only special considerations are limited size and the need to keep an eye on consumption of resources (water and power). There is a growing trend to using residential style electric refrigerators in large luxury RVs. These units are usually equipped with a large battery bank and a high watt inverter. You may have trouble finding a place for enough batteries to retrofit an older RV for this option.
Entertainment systems could be as simple as an AM radio or as sophisticated as a complete home entertainment system. I upgraded the AM/FM radio in my truck camper to an AM/FM Stereo/Cassette player with built in equalizer. My Class A motorhome has two TVS, with external over-the-air and satellite antennas and a combo VCR/DVD player. It also has a port to attach cable TV if it is available in a commercial campground. Many high end motorhomes and trailers have home theater systems that rival anything you'd find in an upscale residence. Your main consideration in using entertainment systems will probably power consumption. Satellite systems can be added to just about any RV. The easiest and least expensive systems are portable systems that you set up outside when you arrive at your camp site. Next are roof mounted antennas that you align once the RV is stationary. For the ultimate in convenience and access, there are roof-mounted systems that automatically track the signal and can be used while traveling. Of course, these fancy automated systems are quite a bit more expensive than the other options. With any satellite antenna you'll need a receiver and a subscription to a satellite service like Dish Network or Direct TV. It may be possible to temporarily move your home receiver to your RV, but it is a lot more convenient if you have a dedicated receiver in your RV. You can usually get special "pay-as-you-go" accounts to use with your RV so you're not paying for your subscription all the time, even when you RV is sitting unused at home.
Backup cameras are found on some RVs, usually on large luxury motorhomes. Modern systems may even include side mounted cameras that are automatically activated when the turn signals are used. Backup cameras are essential on large diesel pushers that have no rear window but are great asset when backing just about any RV. There are backup obstacle detection systems that use a technology similar to radar or sonar to detect obstacles and sound a warning. Given the limited view behind most RVs, any kind of camera or warning system would be advantageous. Modern technology even offers wireless cameras that don't require running a wire from the camera to the monitor, making installation very easy. If you don't have one, it is a good idea to have a person act as a ground guide when you're backing up to prevent accidents.
Camping with full hookups will affect how you use your on board systems. Having shore power eliminates the need to run your generator and lets you use your lights and appliances without fear of running down your batteries. Being connected to city water means you don't have to run your 12-volt pump and that your water supply is more or less endless. Being connected to a sewer at an RV site makes sanitation easier, but you can't just hook up the hoses and forget about it. The black water tank should be allowed to fill about half way and then dumped. It isn't a bad idea to do the same with the gray water tank but it isn't as critical. If you leave the valves open, any liquids will drain away and leave solids to dry out and stick in your holding tank. So, even with full hookups, you will need to monitor holding tank usage.
Go ahead! Rough it easy!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Organizing Provisions and Supplies
Knowing what to bring along on a camping trip is only half the battle. The other half is acquiring and organizing it so it will be safe and you can find what you need when you need it. Acquiring provisions is mostly a matter of making a list and going out and buying what you need. Organizing your provisions and supplies in an RV is much like organizing things at home, only in a smaller space. Organizing your stuff for tent camping is more of a challenge and an opportunity to be creative. If you can't find something when you need it, why even bother to bring it in the first place?
Deciding what to bring. The first step in provisioning for a trip is to outline your needs: where are you going? How long will you be gone? How many people are in your group? Any food allergies or special dietary needs? Will you be able to purchase additional supplies on your trip? Once you know these things you can begin making a menu. Follow the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid. Camping is usually not an appropriate time for gourmet meals. However, if you want to plan special meals for special occasions, go right ahead. Just realize it may mean you have to bring extra supplies and equipment and allow extra time for setup, preparation, serving, and cleanup. Ready-to-eat meals are convenient for camping, but they can be expensive and are not always the most appetizing or nutritious. Try to stick with simple meals that only require basic ingredients and are easy to prepare and require little cleanup. The last thing you want to do is spend your camping trip repeatedly scrubbing pots and pans.
Acquiring provisions. Acquiring provisions may be as simple as a trip the grocery store unless you have special needs. If you plan ahead, you can accumulate a lot of non-perishable items over time to spread out the cost and take advantage of sales and coupons. Generally avoid giant sized containers unless you are feeding a large group or KNOW you will use them up quickly. You certainly don't need a bunch of half-empty, open containers that can spoil or spill in an RV or taking up room in your tent camping bins. A best approach is "right sizing" -- buy the right size for the number of people and number of meals on your trip. It is unlikely a 50# bag of flour will be necessary unless you're feeding a whole troop, but a 1 or 2 quart-size plastic container full may be handy for an any outing. You might need to do some extra shopping to pick up specialty items, like Snow Cone syrup from a restaurant supply store instead of the grocery store.
Organizing your RV. Let's start by dividing things into two broad categories: indoor and outdoor items. Indoor items would include food, kitchen utensils, clothing, medicine, sundries, and indoor entertainments. Outdoor items would include major tools, firewood, RV fluids, outside electrical cords, fresh water hoses, sewer hoses, and outdoor recreational items. Hand tools can fall into both categories. I keep a small general tool kit inside my RV where it is handy for routine repairs. My larger tool kit, with socket sets and full wrench sets that may be needed for major repairs resides in an outside compartment, positioned so it is easily accessed.
Galley organization. Use the way you organize your home kitchen as a starting point for organizing your RV galley. Keep things in as familiar an arrangement as possible. Because the cabinets are smaller you may have to make some compromises, but the closer you can maintain consistency, the easier and more convenient using your RV galley will be. You want often used things within easy reach and in familiar places. One thing you will probably have to do without is the "junk drawer" most of us have in our kitchens at home. If you need a place to gather odds and ends together, a plastic shoebox or other sturdy container might do the trick and could be stored under the dinette or sofa without sacrificing convenient space for more critical items. When choosing plates, bowls, cups, glasses, etc, remember your RV is going to be bouncing around. Avoid delicate or fragile pieces that can be easily damaged. There is some beautiful acrylic stemware that rival crystal for beauty yet is relatively impervious to bouncing around in an RV. China plates are elegant and beautiful, but Melmac or stainless steel or even the old pioneer-style "speckle ware" are more durable, usually lighter, and very appropriate for camping. If you're not familiar with "speckle ware", it is made of porcelain covered steel, usually dark blue with white specks. The plates, bowls, and cups are made of steel and are coated with porcelain. They are attractive, easy to clean, and very durable -- but the porcelain finish is subject to chipping if they are dropped or handled roughly. Plain old paper plates are always a good bet when camping. I like to use them with plastic or wicker holders since most paper plates are fairly flimsy. My favorite plate holders are made of plastic and have a lip molded into the bottom into which the top rim of a soda can fits snugly, giving me both a place to keep track of my soda and a sturdy handle to steady my plate. Plastic flatware is light weight and can be either re-used or discarded, depending on your preference and whether you'd rather do dishes while camping or spend more little more money. Ordinary stainless flatware is a good option. It is durable and a little classier than the plastic stuff, although I've seen some very elegant clear plastic and even silver finish flatware I would be proud to serve to any guest. Obviously, perishable provisions should go in the refrigerator or be kept in an ice chest. When it comes to storing non-perishable items, put light items in upper cupboards and heavy items, like canned goods, down low. If a cabinet comes open during an unexpectedly violent traffic maneuver the last thing you need is a can of chili flying toward your head. A bag of potato chips, box of cereal, or loaf of bread, would be a lot less painful. In addition, the lighter items will be less likely to knock the cabinet open in the first place. You may want to bring your favorite pots and pans, especially if you are planning any special meals that might require them. However, for more convenience for routine camping, we like to stock our RV with its own set of cookware. Cookware designed for RV or camping use is compact, usually stacks together for efficient storage, and has creative, multi-use items that maximize functionality while minimizing space and weight. For example, the lid for the big pot usually is also a frying pan.
Medicine and sundries. These are typically stored in the cabinets in the bathroom or bedroom area. Because space is limited, choose "travel size" items and take advantage of multi-use items such as combined shampoo/conditioner/body wash to reduce both space and weight without losing functionality. Small items can be secured in small plastic containers so they don't cascade out every time you open the cabinet door.
Clothing. Most RVs have some closet space and some drawer or cupboard space to help you organize your on board wardrobe. If the space in your unit is insufficient, put your clothing in duffle bags or plastic tubs and store it under the dinette or on the bed (you can move it to the shower or some front seating area to get it out of your way at bed time).
Outdoor cabinets. You will want to plan the use of your outdoor cabinets to maximize convenience and usability. Things you use frequently and things related to activities under or near your RV awning should be stored in curb-side cabinets. Fresh water hoses and sewer hoses should be stored near the connections in street-side cabinets. Try to keep fresh water hoses and sewer hoses in different places to avoid contamination. Some folks like to use cloth tote bags to store hoses and extension cords, keeping them from getting tangled and helping to keep them clean. I like to keep spare fluids (oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze) in a curb-side cabinets in case I have to access them alongside a busy roadway. Same with my big tool box. I put the fluids in a plastic tub in case they drip or spill. Things you won't use until you are in camp can be relegated to street-side cabinets.
Organizing for tent camping. I have found moderate size plastic tubs very convenient for tent camping. I like the ones that are translucent rather than opaque so I can kind of see what is inside. Large containers are bulky to store and heavy to move about. Moderate sizes fit into the trunk or back seat or cargo area better and are easier to move from storage to vehicle to picnic table and back. It is also easier to find things if there isn't so much stuff all jammed in together. Put like things and things that will be used together, together in the same tub. If you have any trouble remembering where things are, mark the contents on the outside with a felt tip pen or attach labels. Many of the recommendations given above for selecting cookware, tableware, and flatware for RVing are applicable to tent camping as well. Having things well organized and keeping them well organized will make it faster and easier to get on the road at the beginning of a trip and at each stop and get things put away when you get back. If you have room to transport it, a chuck box is a good way to organize your camp kitchen for convenient use. When you get to camp, organize your camp site for efficiency and convenience. If you have access to water, put your camp kitchen near your source of water but away from restrooms. Keep a trash bag or trash can nearby. Set up your tent upwind from the fire pit and restrooms if possible. Keep a shovel and/or a bucket of water near your fire pit. String out clothes lines where you can hang clothing and towels to dry and sleeping bags to air out. If you air out your sleeping bags every morning, they will be more pleasant to sleep in and they will keep you warmer at night. If you sleep in them or roll them up while they are still damp, you will compress the fill and reduce the amount of insulation they provide to keep you warm. Hang some ribbons on clothes lines when not in use so someone doesn't walk into them. If you don't have any attractive ribbons, tear some strips from grocery bags. You want the line to be clearly visible.
"A place for everything and everything in its place." Its more than clever thing Grandma used to say and it isn't just a motto of people with OCD. It is a very useful guideline for organization. Figure out the best place for every item you bring along, then make sure it gets put back in its proper place every time after you use it. I'm kind of anal about putting my tools back in their proper place in the tool box, even if I expect to be using them again fairly soon. Sure, it takes a few minutes to wipe them down and put them away, but in the long run it saves time that would otherwise be wasted trying to figure out where I last used them or where I left them. And it saves often saves the expense of replacing lost tools.
Some folks think organization is restrictive. In reality, organization is the key to freedom. By being organized you will be free to pursue the recreational activities you came out for instead of wasting time searching for things you need. A little time spent organizing your provisions for convenience will pay big dividends in camp. Being able to find what you need when you need it is kind of fun. Not being able to find it when you need it is very aggravating and wastes a lot of time.
Get your stuff together!
Deciding what to bring. The first step in provisioning for a trip is to outline your needs: where are you going? How long will you be gone? How many people are in your group? Any food allergies or special dietary needs? Will you be able to purchase additional supplies on your trip? Once you know these things you can begin making a menu. Follow the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid. Camping is usually not an appropriate time for gourmet meals. However, if you want to plan special meals for special occasions, go right ahead. Just realize it may mean you have to bring extra supplies and equipment and allow extra time for setup, preparation, serving, and cleanup. Ready-to-eat meals are convenient for camping, but they can be expensive and are not always the most appetizing or nutritious. Try to stick with simple meals that only require basic ingredients and are easy to prepare and require little cleanup. The last thing you want to do is spend your camping trip repeatedly scrubbing pots and pans.
Acquiring provisions. Acquiring provisions may be as simple as a trip the grocery store unless you have special needs. If you plan ahead, you can accumulate a lot of non-perishable items over time to spread out the cost and take advantage of sales and coupons. Generally avoid giant sized containers unless you are feeding a large group or KNOW you will use them up quickly. You certainly don't need a bunch of half-empty, open containers that can spoil or spill in an RV or taking up room in your tent camping bins. A best approach is "right sizing" -- buy the right size for the number of people and number of meals on your trip. It is unlikely a 50# bag of flour will be necessary unless you're feeding a whole troop, but a 1 or 2 quart-size plastic container full may be handy for an any outing. You might need to do some extra shopping to pick up specialty items, like Snow Cone syrup from a restaurant supply store instead of the grocery store.
Organizing your RV. Let's start by dividing things into two broad categories: indoor and outdoor items. Indoor items would include food, kitchen utensils, clothing, medicine, sundries, and indoor entertainments. Outdoor items would include major tools, firewood, RV fluids, outside electrical cords, fresh water hoses, sewer hoses, and outdoor recreational items. Hand tools can fall into both categories. I keep a small general tool kit inside my RV where it is handy for routine repairs. My larger tool kit, with socket sets and full wrench sets that may be needed for major repairs resides in an outside compartment, positioned so it is easily accessed.
Galley organization. Use the way you organize your home kitchen as a starting point for organizing your RV galley. Keep things in as familiar an arrangement as possible. Because the cabinets are smaller you may have to make some compromises, but the closer you can maintain consistency, the easier and more convenient using your RV galley will be. You want often used things within easy reach and in familiar places. One thing you will probably have to do without is the "junk drawer" most of us have in our kitchens at home. If you need a place to gather odds and ends together, a plastic shoebox or other sturdy container might do the trick and could be stored under the dinette or sofa without sacrificing convenient space for more critical items. When choosing plates, bowls, cups, glasses, etc, remember your RV is going to be bouncing around. Avoid delicate or fragile pieces that can be easily damaged. There is some beautiful acrylic stemware that rival crystal for beauty yet is relatively impervious to bouncing around in an RV. China plates are elegant and beautiful, but Melmac or stainless steel or even the old pioneer-style "speckle ware" are more durable, usually lighter, and very appropriate for camping. If you're not familiar with "speckle ware", it is made of porcelain covered steel, usually dark blue with white specks. The plates, bowls, and cups are made of steel and are coated with porcelain. They are attractive, easy to clean, and very durable -- but the porcelain finish is subject to chipping if they are dropped or handled roughly. Plain old paper plates are always a good bet when camping. I like to use them with plastic or wicker holders since most paper plates are fairly flimsy. My favorite plate holders are made of plastic and have a lip molded into the bottom into which the top rim of a soda can fits snugly, giving me both a place to keep track of my soda and a sturdy handle to steady my plate. Plastic flatware is light weight and can be either re-used or discarded, depending on your preference and whether you'd rather do dishes while camping or spend more little more money. Ordinary stainless flatware is a good option. It is durable and a little classier than the plastic stuff, although I've seen some very elegant clear plastic and even silver finish flatware I would be proud to serve to any guest. Obviously, perishable provisions should go in the refrigerator or be kept in an ice chest. When it comes to storing non-perishable items, put light items in upper cupboards and heavy items, like canned goods, down low. If a cabinet comes open during an unexpectedly violent traffic maneuver the last thing you need is a can of chili flying toward your head. A bag of potato chips, box of cereal, or loaf of bread, would be a lot less painful. In addition, the lighter items will be less likely to knock the cabinet open in the first place. You may want to bring your favorite pots and pans, especially if you are planning any special meals that might require them. However, for more convenience for routine camping, we like to stock our RV with its own set of cookware. Cookware designed for RV or camping use is compact, usually stacks together for efficient storage, and has creative, multi-use items that maximize functionality while minimizing space and weight. For example, the lid for the big pot usually is also a frying pan.
Medicine and sundries. These are typically stored in the cabinets in the bathroom or bedroom area. Because space is limited, choose "travel size" items and take advantage of multi-use items such as combined shampoo/conditioner/body wash to reduce both space and weight without losing functionality. Small items can be secured in small plastic containers so they don't cascade out every time you open the cabinet door.
Clothing. Most RVs have some closet space and some drawer or cupboard space to help you organize your on board wardrobe. If the space in your unit is insufficient, put your clothing in duffle bags or plastic tubs and store it under the dinette or on the bed (you can move it to the shower or some front seating area to get it out of your way at bed time).
Outdoor cabinets. You will want to plan the use of your outdoor cabinets to maximize convenience and usability. Things you use frequently and things related to activities under or near your RV awning should be stored in curb-side cabinets. Fresh water hoses and sewer hoses should be stored near the connections in street-side cabinets. Try to keep fresh water hoses and sewer hoses in different places to avoid contamination. Some folks like to use cloth tote bags to store hoses and extension cords, keeping them from getting tangled and helping to keep them clean. I like to keep spare fluids (oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze) in a curb-side cabinets in case I have to access them alongside a busy roadway. Same with my big tool box. I put the fluids in a plastic tub in case they drip or spill. Things you won't use until you are in camp can be relegated to street-side cabinets.
Organizing for tent camping. I have found moderate size plastic tubs very convenient for tent camping. I like the ones that are translucent rather than opaque so I can kind of see what is inside. Large containers are bulky to store and heavy to move about. Moderate sizes fit into the trunk or back seat or cargo area better and are easier to move from storage to vehicle to picnic table and back. It is also easier to find things if there isn't so much stuff all jammed in together. Put like things and things that will be used together, together in the same tub. If you have any trouble remembering where things are, mark the contents on the outside with a felt tip pen or attach labels. Many of the recommendations given above for selecting cookware, tableware, and flatware for RVing are applicable to tent camping as well. Having things well organized and keeping them well organized will make it faster and easier to get on the road at the beginning of a trip and at each stop and get things put away when you get back. If you have room to transport it, a chuck box is a good way to organize your camp kitchen for convenient use. When you get to camp, organize your camp site for efficiency and convenience. If you have access to water, put your camp kitchen near your source of water but away from restrooms. Keep a trash bag or trash can nearby. Set up your tent upwind from the fire pit and restrooms if possible. Keep a shovel and/or a bucket of water near your fire pit. String out clothes lines where you can hang clothing and towels to dry and sleeping bags to air out. If you air out your sleeping bags every morning, they will be more pleasant to sleep in and they will keep you warmer at night. If you sleep in them or roll them up while they are still damp, you will compress the fill and reduce the amount of insulation they provide to keep you warm. Hang some ribbons on clothes lines when not in use so someone doesn't walk into them. If you don't have any attractive ribbons, tear some strips from grocery bags. You want the line to be clearly visible.
"A place for everything and everything in its place." Its more than clever thing Grandma used to say and it isn't just a motto of people with OCD. It is a very useful guideline for organization. Figure out the best place for every item you bring along, then make sure it gets put back in its proper place every time after you use it. I'm kind of anal about putting my tools back in their proper place in the tool box, even if I expect to be using them again fairly soon. Sure, it takes a few minutes to wipe them down and put them away, but in the long run it saves time that would otherwise be wasted trying to figure out where I last used them or where I left them. And it saves often saves the expense of replacing lost tools.
Some folks think organization is restrictive. In reality, organization is the key to freedom. By being organized you will be free to pursue the recreational activities you came out for instead of wasting time searching for things you need. A little time spent organizing your provisions for convenience will pay big dividends in camp. Being able to find what you need when you need it is kind of fun. Not being able to find it when you need it is very aggravating and wastes a lot of time.
Get your stuff together!
Camp/RV Cooking Fire Safety Tips
Campfires are a big part of camping. And properly constructed and managed they are safe. We addressed general Campfire Safety in a previous post. If you follow the recommended procedures you should be OK. But occasionally you may encounter out of control fires, even when cooking on a camp stove or an RV range. Some foods are more prone to flare up than others, and grease fires can occur anytime there is grease or cooking oil in the pan. A little splash over the edge creates a path for flames to sneak back into the pan. An unexpected breeze might whip campfire flames up into your bacon or burgers and start a conflagration.
Anytime you have a pan catch on fire you first move to control the flames should be to cover the pan to smother the flames. Put a properly sized lid on the pan or cover it with a damp towel. Don't use a fire extinguisher. The force of the extinguishing agent can often splatter burning grease or other ingredients and spread the fire and I don't know of any fire extinguisher that will enhance the flavor of food. You can use baking soda to smother flames, but, again, that might contaminate your food. DO NOT use flour! Although it looks similar to baking soda it is flammable, so much so that about a cup of flour dust has the explosive power of about 2 sticks of dynamite! Never put water on a grease fire. I've seen fire department demonstrations of what happens. The water, being heavier than oil, goes right to the bottom of the pan where it is super heated and expands to steam with explosive force, blasting flaming oil all over!
If your campfire seems to be getting out of control, shovel some dirt on it or drag some of the fuel out until it is once again manageable. If you drag fuel out of a fire, make sure you don't put in on combustible materials like grass and weeds or near your wood pile. Avoid problems in the first place by following proper campfire procedures and not over-loading your fire. Most of us tend to make our campfires way too big. Bonfires sometimes have a place, but for the most part, campfires should be kept fairly small. An old Indian proverb gives us a good way of examining whether our campfires are an appropriate size: white man build big fire, stand way back. Indian build small fire, get real close. The larger the group, the larger your fire will need to be to keep everyone warm on cool nights around the campfire, but don't make it any bigger than it needs to be or you'll just be wasting fuel. If you find yourselves having to back away from the fire, it is getting too big. If everyone is crowding up to the edge of the fire pit and fighting for a spot, throw on another log or two. Another problem of fires that are too large is that they may create more smoke for you and your companions to have to deal with. Smoke isn't much of problem on calm nights when the smoke goes straight up, but how often does that happen? Mostly you'll have to deal with at least some breeze and, most often, it tends to shift so you have to keep moving around the fire so it isn't blowing smack in your face. Cooking fires should mostly be kept fairly small so you can control them and so they cook your food and not you!
If you have a flame up while cooking on your camp stove or RV range (or at home for that matter), DO NOT pour water on it. Flame ups usually occur when cooking with grease and water will splatter the grease and spread the fire. Water may also result in an explosive reaction that can shower you with hot grease and/or scalding steam as the water is instantly vaporized by the hot grease. The water is heavier than the oil and sinks to the bottom where it instantly becomes superheated and virtually explodes, sending flaming oil all over the place. Cover the burning pan with a lid or wet towel or douse it with baking soda. Covering a burning pot with a lid is even preferable to using a fire extinguisher since the force of the agents from the extinguisher may splash hot grease out of the pan, potentially causing injuries and spreading the fire. If you don't have a lid or baking soda handy (which you ALWAYS should as a precaution), you may be able to smother the pan with a blanket, pillow, or heavy towel. Light fabrics are more likely to catch fire. You want something that is thick enough to smother the flames before it too becomes another part of the problem. A dry dish towel is likely to just add fuel, a throw pillow will probably smother the flames before it burns. If all you have is a towel or dishtowel, get it wet and wring it out, then drape it over the flaming pot. Baking soda can be used to suppress fire. Do NOT use flour or sugar to try to put out a fire. They are flammable, and the dust can even be explosive! Tossing it into the flames can result in a spectacular blast. One cup of flour under the right conditions can create a blast equivalent to 2 sticks of dynamite!
If flames flash over from your campfire into your dinner, a simple solution may be to simply sacrifice your dinner -- dump it into the fire and let it burn instead of risking personal injury or spreading the fire by trying to save the flaming mess. Sometimes just removing it from the fire will allow the flames to die down. If you have a lid or a heavy towel, cover the burning pot or pan to smother the flames. Do NOT try to rush into your RV with a flaming pan to get something to put it out. You should always have appropriate fire suppression materials handy whenever and where ever you are cooking, but if you forget and insist on trying to save your dinner, put the flaming pan down outside before going inside to get what you need. Better that your dinner is a little over-cooked than you or your equipment become toast!
Planning ahead. Regardless of whether you're cooking on an RV range, a camp stove, or over a campfire, always plan ahead for fire suppression. Keep an appropriate sized lid and a box of baking soda nearby. When using a campfire, always have a bucket of sand or dirt or water and a shovel handy. Run a few scenarios through your mind and mentally practice what you will do if a problem develops. If you've already decided you will dump your dinner in the fire if it catches fire you will be able to react more quickly and perhaps avoid serious injuries. Run through at least mental exercises (physical practice would be even better) for grabbing the lid or baking soda to control a flame-up so you won't have to take time to think about it if/when a real emergency presents itself. When something unexpected happens, especially something dangerous, we are startled and that slows our reaction time and can muddle our thought processes. Adrenalin kicks in and instinct triggers a fight or flight reaction. Having planned and practiced our responses helps us avoid panic and stay in control and lets us direct the adrenalin-fueled energy in a more productive way.
When cooking in your RV, keep curtains, towels, aprons, and any other flammable materials away from the stove. Maintain adequate ventilation. Never cook in your tent or under an awning. When cooking outdoors, whether over a campfire or on a camp stove, stay away from trees and bushes (overhead as well as around your campfire) that could catch fire and maintain a safe distance from any tents, vehicles, or people.
When cooking on a campfire, be sure to protect your hands. Wear leather gloves and use appropriate tools to handle hot pots and pans. I have found that Channel-lok style pliers work best for me. There are also "lid lifters" you can use effectively for lids on dutch ovens and other pots on the campfire.
Keep it under control!
Anytime you have a pan catch on fire you first move to control the flames should be to cover the pan to smother the flames. Put a properly sized lid on the pan or cover it with a damp towel. Don't use a fire extinguisher. The force of the extinguishing agent can often splatter burning grease or other ingredients and spread the fire and I don't know of any fire extinguisher that will enhance the flavor of food. You can use baking soda to smother flames, but, again, that might contaminate your food. DO NOT use flour! Although it looks similar to baking soda it is flammable, so much so that about a cup of flour dust has the explosive power of about 2 sticks of dynamite! Never put water on a grease fire. I've seen fire department demonstrations of what happens. The water, being heavier than oil, goes right to the bottom of the pan where it is super heated and expands to steam with explosive force, blasting flaming oil all over!
If your campfire seems to be getting out of control, shovel some dirt on it or drag some of the fuel out until it is once again manageable. If you drag fuel out of a fire, make sure you don't put in on combustible materials like grass and weeds or near your wood pile. Avoid problems in the first place by following proper campfire procedures and not over-loading your fire. Most of us tend to make our campfires way too big. Bonfires sometimes have a place, but for the most part, campfires should be kept fairly small. An old Indian proverb gives us a good way of examining whether our campfires are an appropriate size: white man build big fire, stand way back. Indian build small fire, get real close. The larger the group, the larger your fire will need to be to keep everyone warm on cool nights around the campfire, but don't make it any bigger than it needs to be or you'll just be wasting fuel. If you find yourselves having to back away from the fire, it is getting too big. If everyone is crowding up to the edge of the fire pit and fighting for a spot, throw on another log or two. Another problem of fires that are too large is that they may create more smoke for you and your companions to have to deal with. Smoke isn't much of problem on calm nights when the smoke goes straight up, but how often does that happen? Mostly you'll have to deal with at least some breeze and, most often, it tends to shift so you have to keep moving around the fire so it isn't blowing smack in your face. Cooking fires should mostly be kept fairly small so you can control them and so they cook your food and not you!
If you have a flame up while cooking on your camp stove or RV range (or at home for that matter), DO NOT pour water on it. Flame ups usually occur when cooking with grease and water will splatter the grease and spread the fire. Water may also result in an explosive reaction that can shower you with hot grease and/or scalding steam as the water is instantly vaporized by the hot grease. The water is heavier than the oil and sinks to the bottom where it instantly becomes superheated and virtually explodes, sending flaming oil all over the place. Cover the burning pan with a lid or wet towel or douse it with baking soda. Covering a burning pot with a lid is even preferable to using a fire extinguisher since the force of the agents from the extinguisher may splash hot grease out of the pan, potentially causing injuries and spreading the fire. If you don't have a lid or baking soda handy (which you ALWAYS should as a precaution), you may be able to smother the pan with a blanket, pillow, or heavy towel. Light fabrics are more likely to catch fire. You want something that is thick enough to smother the flames before it too becomes another part of the problem. A dry dish towel is likely to just add fuel, a throw pillow will probably smother the flames before it burns. If all you have is a towel or dishtowel, get it wet and wring it out, then drape it over the flaming pot. Baking soda can be used to suppress fire. Do NOT use flour or sugar to try to put out a fire. They are flammable, and the dust can even be explosive! Tossing it into the flames can result in a spectacular blast. One cup of flour under the right conditions can create a blast equivalent to 2 sticks of dynamite!
If flames flash over from your campfire into your dinner, a simple solution may be to simply sacrifice your dinner -- dump it into the fire and let it burn instead of risking personal injury or spreading the fire by trying to save the flaming mess. Sometimes just removing it from the fire will allow the flames to die down. If you have a lid or a heavy towel, cover the burning pot or pan to smother the flames. Do NOT try to rush into your RV with a flaming pan to get something to put it out. You should always have appropriate fire suppression materials handy whenever and where ever you are cooking, but if you forget and insist on trying to save your dinner, put the flaming pan down outside before going inside to get what you need. Better that your dinner is a little over-cooked than you or your equipment become toast!
Planning ahead. Regardless of whether you're cooking on an RV range, a camp stove, or over a campfire, always plan ahead for fire suppression. Keep an appropriate sized lid and a box of baking soda nearby. When using a campfire, always have a bucket of sand or dirt or water and a shovel handy. Run a few scenarios through your mind and mentally practice what you will do if a problem develops. If you've already decided you will dump your dinner in the fire if it catches fire you will be able to react more quickly and perhaps avoid serious injuries. Run through at least mental exercises (physical practice would be even better) for grabbing the lid or baking soda to control a flame-up so you won't have to take time to think about it if/when a real emergency presents itself. When something unexpected happens, especially something dangerous, we are startled and that slows our reaction time and can muddle our thought processes. Adrenalin kicks in and instinct triggers a fight or flight reaction. Having planned and practiced our responses helps us avoid panic and stay in control and lets us direct the adrenalin-fueled energy in a more productive way.
When cooking in your RV, keep curtains, towels, aprons, and any other flammable materials away from the stove. Maintain adequate ventilation. Never cook in your tent or under an awning. When cooking outdoors, whether over a campfire or on a camp stove, stay away from trees and bushes (overhead as well as around your campfire) that could catch fire and maintain a safe distance from any tents, vehicles, or people.
When cooking on a campfire, be sure to protect your hands. Wear leather gloves and use appropriate tools to handle hot pots and pans. I have found that Channel-lok style pliers work best for me. There are also "lid lifters" you can use effectively for lids on dutch ovens and other pots on the campfire.
Keep it under control!
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Tent and Awning Repairs
No matter how careful you are, eventually something is going to happen to damage your tent, canopy, or RV awning. A breeze is going to suddenly turn into a strong gust and yank something loose, a branch will fall out of a tree and puncture it, one of the kids will fall on it, or sparks may blow onto it from a campfire. Don't panic, even if it bursts into flames! Panic will only make things worse! If you should experience blowing sparks, carefully brush them away as quickly as possible to minimize damage. Wear gloves or use an object to brush them off so you don't burn your hands and turn a minor equipment problem into a major medical emergency. If something catches fire, calmly but quickly take appropriate steps to contain and put out the fire. Water, sand, and dirt thrown at the base of the flames should help smother most any fire. It is a good idea to carry a fire extinguisher and to keep it handy and know how to use it. RVs, by law, must have at least one fire extinguisher. They are usually very small so I carry larger, 10 lb commercial fire extinguisher for added safety. The basic procedure for using is defined by the acronym PASS, which stands for Pull, Aim, Squeeze, and Sweep. Pull the pin, Aim at the base of the flames, Squeeze the trigger/handle, and Sweep side to side. Most fire extinguishers give you only a few seconds before they are empty so they are effective only on small fires. If the fire spreads rapidly or you are unable to extinguish it quickly, immediately send someone to call 911 or get additional help. A standard way of telling if a fire is big enough to call the fire department is if is bigger than a waste basket.
Wind can wreak havoc with extended awnings. We once returned from a dirt bike ride to find an unexpeted sudden series of wind gusts had destroyed virtually every awning on our motorhome. We had, unwisely, left the large patio awning and all the window awnings extended in hopes it would keep the interior cooler in the desert sun. The damage was extensive. Every awning was ripped and most had damage to at least one of the awning arms. It was a frustrating, inconvenient, and expensive mistake.
The most common type of damage that happens to tents and awnings is to the fabric, but sometimes you may have problems with bent or broken tent poles or awning hardware. It is usually relatively easy to make at least temporary repairs to tent and awning fabric in camp using duct tape, similar patching tape, self adhesive nylon patches, or hand sewing on patches. Repairing broken poles or hardware may be a little more difficult without replacement parts but could be critical. Broken poles often punch holes in tents and the longer they are left unrepaired and unrestrained, the more damage they will cause. Broken or missing stakes may leave the tent unusually susceptible to wind damage. If possible, splint the broken pieces of tent poles like you would a broken bone, then replace them with new ones as soon as practical. It is a good idea to carry a spare pole or two or at least a pole repair kit. I also carry a package of nylon tent repair tape. It works on tents, sleeping bags, jackets, riding gear, and awnings. The little repair kits I have contain red, yellow, blue, and green tape but it is also available in other colors and in larger rolls as sail repair tape. The tape is often sold as kite and sail repair tape and is sometimes available in 25' rolls in addition to the little pocket sized packages you'll find in most camping supply departments. Bent RV awning hardware can sometimes be straightened enough to at least get you through the trip but badly damage components should replaced as soon as possible to avoid additional damage to other components and to avoid frustration in use. Once bent, hardware will have been weakened and will be more susceptible to further damage.
Regardless of the source or type of the damage, begin at least temporary repairs as soon as possible. As soon as possible does not mean trying to repair a torn awning in a wind or rain storm, but get to it as soon as you can after the weather calms down. Small, simple tears or holes can usually be temporarily repaired using self-adhesive patches,vinyl tape, or duct tape. Sometimes these patches are sufficient for permanent repairs on small cuts. If the patch is clear or matches the fabric, it will often be almost invisible. I carry a tent repair kit that contains self adhesive nylon patch strips. The kit contains a variety of colors and the patches can be used to repair tents, sleeping bags, jackets and even back packs and riding gear. Duct tape or awning repair tape works very well for emergency awning repairs or large tears in tents and canopies -- if the surface is dry so the tape will stick. You can also purchase sealing tape that will stick to wet surfaces. Whenever repairing any fabric, take the tension off the fabric so you can pull the edges of the tear back together. Cut a patch about 2" longer than the damaged area. Align the edges of the tear, center the patch, and press the patch in place. It helps if you can apply pressure from both sides of the fabric. Sometimes that means having a second person under the awning or inside the tent. For extra strength and security, put patches on both sides of the fabric. If your patch materials or access are limited, patch just the outside surface. Making immediate repairs will reduce the chances of the tear getting bigger as well as helping keep the weather outside. Duct tape will not stick well to wet surfaces but it can sometimes be persuaded to stick. There are special wet-repair tapes that will stick well to wet surfaces. Radiator hose repair tape is another option. If you can find some wet application tape at a reasonable price at your local hardware store, home center, RV store, or auto reply store, it might be a good idea to keep bring some along on every camping trip. Otherwise, you'll have to wait until the surface dries out to repair it with duct tape or tent repair tape.
Repair tape comes in various forms. Ordinary duct tape is commonly used for a multitude of emergency repairs. Awning repair tape is usually more cosmetically appealing. It may be clear or may match the color of your awning. Nylon tent repair tape can be used on tents, awnings, sleeping bags, jackets, back packs, and riding gear and you can often match the color pretty closely so a proper repair may be nearly invisible. Duct tape is usually gun-metal gray, but can also be commonly found in black, white, red, blue, camouflage and sometimes other colors. I recently found some in purple, my wife's favorite color. I just had to get it for her even though I can't think of a single piece of purple gear we can use it on.
Large holes or tears or areas that will be under tension may require sewing and perhaps even reinforcement to achieve permanent repairs. I bought a used cabin tent that a previous owner had cut a 4" hole in the roof for a stovepipe. I originally bought it to use as a portable garage for my dirt bikes so I wasn't too concerned about cosmetic appearances. I purchased a piece of ordinary white canvas big enough to cover the hole. I hemmed the edges, then stitched it in place over the hole and sealed the seams with tent seam sealer, a large, waxy crayon-like stick you rub over the seams and stitching. The patch held securely for many years and I ended up using the tent on several boy scout camping trips with my sons. I'll be the first to admit my patch wasn't cosmetically perfect (it wasn't even the same color as the original tent fabric), but neither was it totally obnoxious, and was fully functional, which was, of course, the whole point. There are also good spray-on seam sealers that are sometimes easier to use than the wax sticks. The wax sticks are easier to use when they and the surface you're applying them to are warm. Sprays are not as much affected by temperature but they will dry quicker when it is warm.
RV awnings usually are under quite a bit of tension so if a tear starts, it will quickly spread if it isn't mitigated right away. Roll up the awning until you get a break in the weather when you can work on it. To effect repairs, release the tension on the fabric. You may have to have someone lift up on the roller tube to get some slack in the fabric. Then align the edges and apply a generous layer of repair tape to both sides of the fabric. For small tears or burn spots, a single piece of tape on the outside surface may be adequate. For larger tears that may be under tension when the awning is extended, you may want to tape the edges together with long strips of tape perpendicular to the tear before taping along the tear for a waterproof seal.
Repairing damaged hardware on a tent or an RV awning may require a little ingenuity. If a tent pole or awning arm gets bent, you may be able to gently straighten it. If it is broken, you may have to splint it in much the same way you would splint a broken bone. Align the bent or broken pieces and place a rigid support across the break. Secure it on both sides of the break with rope, wire, or tape. Duct tape or plastic electrical tape is easy to use and works very well. In a pinch you might even use adhesive tape from your first aid kit. Repairs of this type may be enough to get you through the weekend and get you home. Replace broken hardware as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your tent or awning. It is also a good idea to replace bent tent poles or awning arms, even if you've been able to straighten them because they will have been weakened and will be likely to bend again. Repeated bending will lead to breaking and broken hardware is likely to pierce, tear, or shred the fabric.
Taking care of minor damage right away can prevent little problems from getting bigger. Immediate, temporary repairs can help keep the damage from spreading. More permanent repairs should be completed a soon as practical. The old adage that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies here. Of course, the initial ounce is to prevent damage from occurring in the first place if you can. Avoid exposing your tents and awnings to high winds, falling debris, and blowing embers. Then, when things happen anyway -- and they will! -- timely attention can keep the damage to a minimum.
Tents are usually water resistant but sometimes, after extended use or exposure to sunlight, wind, and rain, the waterproofing breaks down and they begin to leak. If that happens you can spray your tent with something like Camp Dry to restore its water repellent properties. RV awnings are usually made of vinyl that will retain its water resistance until the fabric is pretty much beyond help. Keeping awnings clean and using quality conditioners on the fabric regularly will help keep them looking good and lasting for many years. If the colors on your awning have faded, you can probably re-paint it with vinyl paint to restore its original appearance or even change the color.
Patch it up!
Wind can wreak havoc with extended awnings. We once returned from a dirt bike ride to find an unexpeted sudden series of wind gusts had destroyed virtually every awning on our motorhome. We had, unwisely, left the large patio awning and all the window awnings extended in hopes it would keep the interior cooler in the desert sun. The damage was extensive. Every awning was ripped and most had damage to at least one of the awning arms. It was a frustrating, inconvenient, and expensive mistake.
The most common type of damage that happens to tents and awnings is to the fabric, but sometimes you may have problems with bent or broken tent poles or awning hardware. It is usually relatively easy to make at least temporary repairs to tent and awning fabric in camp using duct tape, similar patching tape, self adhesive nylon patches, or hand sewing on patches. Repairing broken poles or hardware may be a little more difficult without replacement parts but could be critical. Broken poles often punch holes in tents and the longer they are left unrepaired and unrestrained, the more damage they will cause. Broken or missing stakes may leave the tent unusually susceptible to wind damage. If possible, splint the broken pieces of tent poles like you would a broken bone, then replace them with new ones as soon as practical. It is a good idea to carry a spare pole or two or at least a pole repair kit. I also carry a package of nylon tent repair tape. It works on tents, sleeping bags, jackets, riding gear, and awnings. The little repair kits I have contain red, yellow, blue, and green tape but it is also available in other colors and in larger rolls as sail repair tape. The tape is often sold as kite and sail repair tape and is sometimes available in 25' rolls in addition to the little pocket sized packages you'll find in most camping supply departments. Bent RV awning hardware can sometimes be straightened enough to at least get you through the trip but badly damage components should replaced as soon as possible to avoid additional damage to other components and to avoid frustration in use. Once bent, hardware will have been weakened and will be more susceptible to further damage.
Regardless of the source or type of the damage, begin at least temporary repairs as soon as possible. As soon as possible does not mean trying to repair a torn awning in a wind or rain storm, but get to it as soon as you can after the weather calms down. Small, simple tears or holes can usually be temporarily repaired using self-adhesive patches,vinyl tape, or duct tape. Sometimes these patches are sufficient for permanent repairs on small cuts. If the patch is clear or matches the fabric, it will often be almost invisible. I carry a tent repair kit that contains self adhesive nylon patch strips. The kit contains a variety of colors and the patches can be used to repair tents, sleeping bags, jackets and even back packs and riding gear. Duct tape or awning repair tape works very well for emergency awning repairs or large tears in tents and canopies -- if the surface is dry so the tape will stick. You can also purchase sealing tape that will stick to wet surfaces. Whenever repairing any fabric, take the tension off the fabric so you can pull the edges of the tear back together. Cut a patch about 2" longer than the damaged area. Align the edges of the tear, center the patch, and press the patch in place. It helps if you can apply pressure from both sides of the fabric. Sometimes that means having a second person under the awning or inside the tent. For extra strength and security, put patches on both sides of the fabric. If your patch materials or access are limited, patch just the outside surface. Making immediate repairs will reduce the chances of the tear getting bigger as well as helping keep the weather outside. Duct tape will not stick well to wet surfaces but it can sometimes be persuaded to stick. There are special wet-repair tapes that will stick well to wet surfaces. Radiator hose repair tape is another option. If you can find some wet application tape at a reasonable price at your local hardware store, home center, RV store, or auto reply store, it might be a good idea to keep bring some along on every camping trip. Otherwise, you'll have to wait until the surface dries out to repair it with duct tape or tent repair tape.
Repair tape comes in various forms. Ordinary duct tape is commonly used for a multitude of emergency repairs. Awning repair tape is usually more cosmetically appealing. It may be clear or may match the color of your awning. Nylon tent repair tape can be used on tents, awnings, sleeping bags, jackets, back packs, and riding gear and you can often match the color pretty closely so a proper repair may be nearly invisible. Duct tape is usually gun-metal gray, but can also be commonly found in black, white, red, blue, camouflage and sometimes other colors. I recently found some in purple, my wife's favorite color. I just had to get it for her even though I can't think of a single piece of purple gear we can use it on.
Large holes or tears or areas that will be under tension may require sewing and perhaps even reinforcement to achieve permanent repairs. I bought a used cabin tent that a previous owner had cut a 4" hole in the roof for a stovepipe. I originally bought it to use as a portable garage for my dirt bikes so I wasn't too concerned about cosmetic appearances. I purchased a piece of ordinary white canvas big enough to cover the hole. I hemmed the edges, then stitched it in place over the hole and sealed the seams with tent seam sealer, a large, waxy crayon-like stick you rub over the seams and stitching. The patch held securely for many years and I ended up using the tent on several boy scout camping trips with my sons. I'll be the first to admit my patch wasn't cosmetically perfect (it wasn't even the same color as the original tent fabric), but neither was it totally obnoxious, and was fully functional, which was, of course, the whole point. There are also good spray-on seam sealers that are sometimes easier to use than the wax sticks. The wax sticks are easier to use when they and the surface you're applying them to are warm. Sprays are not as much affected by temperature but they will dry quicker when it is warm.
RV awnings usually are under quite a bit of tension so if a tear starts, it will quickly spread if it isn't mitigated right away. Roll up the awning until you get a break in the weather when you can work on it. To effect repairs, release the tension on the fabric. You may have to have someone lift up on the roller tube to get some slack in the fabric. Then align the edges and apply a generous layer of repair tape to both sides of the fabric. For small tears or burn spots, a single piece of tape on the outside surface may be adequate. For larger tears that may be under tension when the awning is extended, you may want to tape the edges together with long strips of tape perpendicular to the tear before taping along the tear for a waterproof seal.
Repairing damaged hardware on a tent or an RV awning may require a little ingenuity. If a tent pole or awning arm gets bent, you may be able to gently straighten it. If it is broken, you may have to splint it in much the same way you would splint a broken bone. Align the bent or broken pieces and place a rigid support across the break. Secure it on both sides of the break with rope, wire, or tape. Duct tape or plastic electrical tape is easy to use and works very well. In a pinch you might even use adhesive tape from your first aid kit. Repairs of this type may be enough to get you through the weekend and get you home. Replace broken hardware as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your tent or awning. It is also a good idea to replace bent tent poles or awning arms, even if you've been able to straighten them because they will have been weakened and will be likely to bend again. Repeated bending will lead to breaking and broken hardware is likely to pierce, tear, or shred the fabric.
Taking care of minor damage right away can prevent little problems from getting bigger. Immediate, temporary repairs can help keep the damage from spreading. More permanent repairs should be completed a soon as practical. The old adage that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies here. Of course, the initial ounce is to prevent damage from occurring in the first place if you can. Avoid exposing your tents and awnings to high winds, falling debris, and blowing embers. Then, when things happen anyway -- and they will! -- timely attention can keep the damage to a minimum.
Tents are usually water resistant but sometimes, after extended use or exposure to sunlight, wind, and rain, the waterproofing breaks down and they begin to leak. If that happens you can spray your tent with something like Camp Dry to restore its water repellent properties. RV awnings are usually made of vinyl that will retain its water resistance until the fabric is pretty much beyond help. Keeping awnings clean and using quality conditioners on the fabric regularly will help keep them looking good and lasting for many years. If the colors on your awning have faded, you can probably re-paint it with vinyl paint to restore its original appearance or even change the color.
Patch it up!
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Redecorating Your RV
Why would anyone want to redecorate an RV? Well, if you simply can't stand the way it looks, you might want to make some changes. You might also want to redecorate an older unit due to age, normal wear and tear, or deterioration. Sometimes people just want to customize their environment to make it more comfortable and make it really theirs.
You may have choices of interior decor when purchasing a new RV. Your choices will be limited if you buy from in stock inventory but if you order your unit you usually have several interior options to choose from. On used units you're pretty much stuck with what it is there -- at least to start with. But if you do buy a previously owned unit you don't have to live with an undesirable decor forever. It is possible to redecorate an RV. You probably won't want to paint the outside of your RV, although that is sometimes an option. Full body paint can be very expensive. Original interiors aren't usually painted, but painting the inside is certainly a possibility. If the cabinetry is very dark and you don't like it, you may be able to paint it to lighten things up. Keep in mind that some cabinetry surfaces are synthetic and may require special preparation before they can be painted. Check with a professional painter or qualified RV technician before beginning if you have any doubts about the composition of the cabinet surfaces, how to prep them, or your ability to access the situation. The same applies to wall surfaces. Some wood paneled interiors are natural wood, some are synthetic. Natural wood surfaces can sometimes be stripped and refinished. Synthetics usually can not. With synthetics you'll probably have to settle for painting them or covering them with wall paper or Contact paper or paneling over them.
Major exterior upgrades can be expensive. Repainting an RV or replacing all the faded graphics or doing a vehicle wrap are options, but they tend to be kind of pricey. You may be able to change the color of highlight stripes on and RV or add some simple stock graphics to enhance the exterior appearance without too much expense. I've repainted the stripes on trailers and truck campers and redone vinyls striping several times with good results. Remember that proper preparation is absolutely essential to professional looking results whether you're repainting stripes or adding graphics. Sometimes you can have custom graphics made to match faded originals. I was able to some badly faded name stickers on a motorhome by taking a digital photo of a sticker in good condition and having a local sign shop make me a pair of new ones for my motorhome. Be sure to take accurate measurements and give them to the sign shop so you get the right size. I might be good to make the new ones just slightly larger than the old ones so they completely cover where the old ones were and don't leave a "shadow" of faded (or unfaded) paint around the new ones.
Bedrooms. One of the easiest places to upgrade the interior appearance of your RV is the bedroom. You can replace worn, faded, outdated bedspread and pillow shams at low lost and little effort. It doesn't require any special tools or special skills beyond making a bed and can make a big difference in how it looks. If you coordinate the new accessories with existing curtains and valances its as easy as changing the sheets and bedspread and making the bed. For a more complete update, replace the curtains or blinds and valances to match the new bedspread. While you're at it, it might be a good time to upgrade the bedspread to a heavier comforter if you have had any trouble staying warm at night.
Upgrading the faucets in the kitchen and/or bathroom is another fairly inexpensive and easy way to modernize an older RV. Replacing a standard kitchen faucet with a high rise bar type faucet adds flexibility for filling hydration packs, canteens etc as well as makes it easier to wash and rinse large pots and pans. A new, more modern faucet is highly visible and adds a touch of elegance. This update is particularly appealing if the old faucet is leaking or has gotten clogged with hard water deposits. Replacing sink faucets is usually within the capabilities of the average do-it-yourselfer but if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, have it done by a qualified RV technician or a plumber. Many shower faucets can only be replaced from behind the shower enclosure and, unless you know how to get back there, you will either have to have it done by a professional who does or cut a hole in the shower enclosure to reach them (then you have to figure out how to repair the hole you made).
Another fairly easy upgrade to add functionality as well as modernize the appearance, is to add a tile backsplash to the kitchen or bathroom sink. You will need to measure the area and purchase enough tile, adhesive, and grout to do the job. Be sure to clean the old wall surface well so the adhesive will stick and make sure to line up the pieces of tile so they are straight.
Wall paper. Most RVs have a lot of natural wood finished paneling. It is easy to clean and compatible with most upholstery and flooring choices as well as having a rich and durable appearance. Some have one or more wall papered surfaces. These are the most common candidates for updating as they become faded, soiled, torn, or the design simply doesn't appeal to the owner. Old wall paper may be stripped or you may have to prepare the surface and apply new wall paper over the old. Check with a paint or hardware store to select appropriate tools and solvents to remove old wallpaper and a proper adhesive for use in your RV. A solution of a cap full of liquid fabric softener in about a quart of water is often an effective way to soften wallpaper so it can be removed more easily. RVs are subjected to environmental extremes beyond normal residential limits. At the very least, use a wallpaper paste made for use in bathrooms throughout your RV. It is more resistant to the changes in humidity and temperature that may occur in your RV. If you must install new wallpaper over old, check for any special preparation that may be necessary to ensure a smooth and durable installation and make sure the adhesive you use is compatible with the old surface. Self adhesive products like Contact paper come a variety of patterns and can sometimes be used to resurface damaged paneling. Since Contact paper usually has a plastic coating it is particularly good for use where the surface is exposed to water, such as on the walls around the bathroom sink. Of course, for a really professional repair of these areas, you could apply FRP (fiber reinforced plastic) panels over or in place of damaged walls. FRP is highly resistant to moisture. It is often used in commercial bathrooms and kitchens where the walls have to be water resistant and scrubable. FRP is available in home centers and is usually white or off white. It has a kind of pebble surface. There are a number of moldings available to join sheets or finish the edges for a very professional looking installation.
Wallpaper borders are an easy and fairly inexpensive way to add highlights to your RV. They are available in a variety of patterns to match just about any decor, taste, or hobby. My truck camper came with a fishing motif all around the cab over bed and I opted to replace it with a motocross pattern that matches our OHV activities better. Borders can be used to highlight any wall, not just wallpapered walls. In my camper they cover the valance over the tops of the windows surrounding the cab-over bed. Everything else is natural wood paneling. Wallpaper borders are typically installed at the top of the wall, just below the ceiling but are also sometimes used as a highlight at other heights. You probably don't want to use them where there will be high impact, like where the back of a chair hits the wall. Better to install an attractive wooden "chair rail" in places like that.
Upholstery. RV upholstery is generally pretty durable and will last for many years. Areas exposed to a lot of sunlight are likely to become faded or sun-rotted. Other places it usually becomes outdated long before it wears out. So you may want to change the upholstery even if it isn't damaged. Unless you have the experience and heavy-duty sewing machine needed, this is a job best left to professionals. Updating upholstery can greatly improve the appearance and sometimes the comfort of your RV seating. If seating surfaces have broken down, it is a good time to replace the damaged foam and/or padding when you change the upholstery. It will be more enjoyable for you to use and can boost resale/trade-in value. You may be able to achieve temporary updates using throw-covers and accessory cushions or pillows. If you reupholster your RV choose a sturdy, Scotchguard protected fabric or spray the new upholstery with Scotchguard before using the RV. Sometimes you can purchase replacement cushions (new or used) to fit your existing dinette and/or sofa. The chances of finding an exact match are probably slim, but you may be able to find something that complements the existing decor. Replacing cushions can solve problems of sagging and breakdown as well as improving appearance.
Slip covers and/or seat covers aren't usually used in RVs but it might be a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to overcome worn seating. You can probably buy ready made seat covers for the driver's and passenger seats in a motorhome. If you aren't comfortable with your skill to install them, have it done at an upholstery shop for best results. If you do it yourself, take plenty of time and make sure you align the seams properly and pull the covers tight before securing them in place with hog rings. Some temporary seat covers are secured with elastic straps and you should be able to do those without professional help. You may have to make, alter, or have made custom slip covers for other furniture. Because of the movement and frequent breezes in an RV, slip covers may not stay in place unless they are well secure with velcro or elastic straps. For a quick an easy cover up for a worn sofa, drape a colorful blanket like an Indian blanket or a serapi over it.
Vinyl surfaces. Many RVs, especially motorhomes, have large vinyl covered areas, including dashboards, side panels, and seats. If they are faded and need to be refreshed or you just want to change color, you may be able to use special vinyl spray paint available in auto parts stores. You will need to clean and prepare the surface according to the requirements of the product you will be using. Be sure to open the windows to make sure you have adequate ventilation since the fumes from solvents and paint can be toxic. Mask off any areas you aren't coloring to prevent over spray from settling on them. You may be able to restore luster and shine to moderately faded surfaces using a detail spray like SC-1. I have found the silicone based SC-1 to be more satisfactory than water-based automotive products like Armorall, but Armorall is still a good option.
Flooring. Floors can take a real beating and may become worn or discolored faster than any other part of the interior. Sometimes, if the flooring is not badly damaged, the appearance can be revived by a good detailing--stripping and re-waxing hard surfaces and shampooing carpets. You may be even able to dye faded carpets or if you just want to change the color or disguise stained or faded areas. If none of those solutions work or appeal to you, replacing RV flooring is not a terribly difficult task. Remove the old flooring. You may have to cut it where it goes under cabinets (many times the cabinets are installed on top of the original flooring). Inspect the sub-floor for damage or weak spots. You will want to repair any damage before installing your new floor covering. Any areas that have had water damage should definitely be replaced. You may have to cut the sub-floor to remove the damaged portion. Try to make the cuts over or near structural members (look for nail or screw lines or tap on the floor to find the joists). You will need to be able to secure the new piece of sub-floor to the joists. While you have the floor covering removed, check for squeaks or movement. These can often be corrected by adding screws into the joists. I prefer "Grabber" type screws like those used for drywall. I'd start with 1 1/4" screws to avoid over-penetration that might damage plumbing or wiring that runs beneath the sub-frame. You may want to change the type of flooring in some parts of your RV. Many older units are carpeted everywhere, but it might be useful to switch to vinyl or tile flooring in the galley and/or bathroom areas and retain the carpet in the bedroom. Updating the flooring will give new life to your RVs interior, adding both visual appeal and durability. A new, hard-surface in the galley area may make it easier to keep it clean. In some cases you may be able to apply new flooring over old, but in doing so you lose the opportunity to check for and repair any underlying damage and defects in the old surface may soon show through the replacement. You may be able to put new vinyl or tile or even carpet over old vinyl, or tile surfaces. If you want to change from carpet to vinyl or tile you MUST remove the old carpet. You will almost always have better results if you remove the old flooring first. If you remove the old floor covering carefully, in one piece, it might serve as a pattern for the new material.
Window treatments. Window treatments vary from unit to unit. Some have curtains or drapes, some have mini-blinds, some have roller shades, some have day/night shades. Some have a combination, even on the same windows. Over time any window covering is going to succumb to the ravages of sunlight and need to be replaced. In some ways, window coverings are designed to be sacrificial, taking the brunt of sunlight and saving more expensive components such as upholstery and carpets. Many RVs have upholstered valances that you may want to update along with other interior changes. Replacing faded, ragged, or non-functional window treatments can greatly improve the appearance, functionality, and comfort of your RV. Most updates are well within the capabilities of do-it-yourselfers. If you have basic tools and fundamental carpentry skills, you should be able to replace curtains, drapes, blinds, and shades and re-cover valances. Many times your upgrades (depending on what you choose) will provide better light control and increase insulation to make it easier to maintain desired temperatures inside your RV and reduce ambient light for sleeping in and improved afternoon naps.
For a novel wall treatment that is functional as well as decorative, consider carpet or tapestry. Carpeting all or part of a wall will add insulation and sound deadening qualities as well as covering up damage and improving the looks. Carpet is especially helpful where there might be things that swing against the wall. I used indoor-outdoor carpeting on the wall where I hang my tie downs in my motorcycle trailer so the hooks don't leave nasty rub marks on the painted wall. Use tapestries or Persian rugs for a more colorful, elegant, and decorative touch in your RV. Carpeted walls might be especially useful in the bedroom to both improve insulating qualities and control sound. You may even be able to glue a favorite fabric over paneling or existing wallpaper for a truly unique look. Fake brick is another fairly easy way to upgrade a wall. It is light weight, thin (usually about 1/2" or less), and easy to install. I can be used as a highlight or to cover up unsightly repairs just about anywhere you like or, use it in place of ceramic or glass tile splash guards in the kitchen and bathroom. One place it might be particularly attractive would be around an electric fireplace.
Lighting. Another fairly easy and relatively inexpensive upgrade that pays great dividends in usability and appearance is to upgrade lighting fixtures. As fixtures age, the plastic lenses become discolored, unsightly, and restrict light. Often you can just replace the lenses, making the fixtures look better and provide better light. Some older fixtures had opaque lenses that created a yellowish light. New replacement lenses are sometimes available in clear plastic the greatly increases the brightness as well as improving the appearance. If you choose to update the entire fixture, it isn't a particularly difficult task. Carefully remove the old fixture, noting the wiring connections. Clean the area around and behind it. Then install the new fixture, making sure you attach the wiring correctly. The 12 volt DC systems in RV usually have black wires for ground and red for the hot lead. Fixtures often have black ground and white hot leads. If you have any doubt about the fixture, trace the wires. The hot lead will go to the base of bulb, the ground will go to the socket. To verify the supply wiring you will need a test light connected to a known ground. When you touch the probe of the test light to the hot wire, the light will light up. Touching the ground will not cause the light to glow. Incandescent fixtures will still work even if they are wired backwards, but they may create a fire hazard, so check your wires carefully. Florescent or LED fixtures may not light up if wired backwards. When installing new fixtures, pay attention to any special warnings about clearances. Some fixtures generate more heat than others so a new fixture may be dangerous in the same place an old one was safe. Your choice of lighting fixtures will depend on your personal taste and your need for illumination. Adjustable "aircraft style" lights are popular additions where you need direct illumination for reading etc. Other lights may be purely decorative or cosmetic. I have a small fixture we've moved from RV to RV for years and years. It is about 4-5" square. It has white lights on each of two sides and deep blue lens on the main part of the fixture. The blue light is a nice night light for just relaxing or providing enough illumination to safely negotiate your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night without waking your companions. Rope lights are sometimes used to provide soft illumination near the floor or to create high lights on the ceiling or around cabinets. I try to avoid any fixture that sticks out very far from the wall or ceiling. Some look very nice, but given the restricted space inside most RVs, they tend to get bumped into a lot resulting in either damage to the fixture or the body parts that come in contact with it. LED conversions and fixtures are still relatively expensive, but not only will you enjoy aesthetic gains, you will conserve battery power and LED bulbs last a lot longer than regular bulbs.
Appliances. Upgrading appliances tends to be a little pricey, but if they are not functioning, are badly damaged, or are REALLY UGLY, you may want to go that route. Sometimes you can change the cover on the door of RV refrigerators to replace damaged or stained surfaces to simply update the look. If you can't replace it, you might try covering it with Contact paper for at least a temporary improvement. Replacing an RV range/oven or cook top can greatly improve the appearance of and modernize the galley. By dad stripped the synthetic damaged surface off a refrigerator door panel and refinished the underlying wood paneling with clear polyurethane. It looked great! If your appliances are working OK, you might repaint them to give them new life and improve their appearance. Be sure to use appliance paint, not ordinary general purpose spray paint. Water heaters and furnaces are usually out of sight and would only need replacement if they have failed and cannot reasonably be repaired or if you need/want to increase efficiency or capacity. Completely replacing appliances is expensive and often requires professional installation. You sure don't want any loose gas connections on stoves, furnaces, hot water heaters, or refrigerators! One way to save money on appliance is to locate some good used ones. I have had very good luck buying both furnaces and roof air conditioners from a local self-service junk yard. The prices were very good and the appliances worked very well. Like any other purchase of used equipment, inspect it carefully before concluding the sale. The seller plugged in the a/c unit for me to test it before I bought it. I couldn't test the furnace, but since it was only $25 I was willing to chance it, and it paid off. It worked perfectly. You may be able to change the look and/or color or cover stained or damage surfaces of an RV range using appliance paint. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for best results. If you have stainless steel appliances they can usually be cleaned with stainless steel polish or carefully polished with 0000 steel wool to clean and renew the appearance. These days you can replace the standard 6 or 10 gallon tank style water heaters with on demand units so you'll never run out of hot water -- as long as you don't run out of water! While some of these are designed to fit right into the same space as the original water heater, they are something 3-4 times as expensive, but it is a nice option to consider if you have the budget for it.
Mattresses/bedding. The original equipment mattresses that come in most RVs are usually NOT top-of-the-line. And in many cases, they are a custom size that is difficult to replace. If the mattress is structurally sound and not contaminated with odors, insects, or other pollutants, you may be able to have it re-covered or just fit it with a fitted mattress cover. Custom replacements can also be purchased. Today there are many good upgrades for RV mattresses to improve your sleeping comfort, including memory-foam mattresses and even "Sleep Number" beds. Replacing the comforter and shams will update the appearance of your bedroom quickly, easily, and fairly inexpensively. If the mattress has begun to break down you may extend its useful life with a mattress pad or mattress topper without the expense of replacing the mattress. I used a 4"memory foam mattress topper to augment a thin foam mattress in one of our RVs and it was very comfortable.
Rugs. An inexpensive way to deal with damaged or discolored floors is to add throw rugs. This is also a good way to prevent damage to permanent floors. These sometimes come in sets that include a long runner for the main aisle and mats for the entry and galley. Sets designed for RVs usually have non-slip backings that make them safer than their ordinary residential counterparts. If you find residential rugs you would like to use in your RV and they don't have non-slip backings, you use add-on non-slip pads to secure them in your RV. If your RV has vinyl or tile floors, rugs can add comfort on cold nights and help reduce heat loss through the floor. A thick fluffy bath mat is nice addition to almost any RV bathroom, regardless of what kind of flooring it has. It is a lot easier to remove for cleaning than permanently installed carpet!
Pictures/posters, etc. Most RVs have little wall space for pictures or posters, but if you do have blank wall space, there is no reason you can't add favorite pictures, photos, posters, or wall-hangings. Just make sure they are securely fastened to the wall. You will need extra screws or double-sticky tape or some florist's clay to prevent them from swinging around or falling off when the vehicle is in motion. If they are allowed to swing they will make ugly scars on the wall around them and could fall off and get broken or become dangerous projectiles during a fast stop or collision.
Potted plants and vases. I have seen potted plants and beautiful flower arrangements in RVs at RV shows and magazine ads. I've even seen them accent the patio area under the awning with potted trees. All these items add a nice, beautiful and homey touch for the display models, but I don't think they are very practical for use in any vehicle that spends any time at all on the road. If you happen to like that kind of decor, be sure you can secure all items safely during travel and only display them while you are camped. Consider whether you have room to carry them while traveling and whether they will be safe where they will neither get damaged or cause damage to you or your RV on the road. Personally, I prefer to allocate the weight to more useful items, but do what makes you (and your co-pilot) happy.
Accessories. There are many accessories that can add to the comfort and convenience of your RV. Oscillating fans are fairly inexpensive and easy to install. RV fans run on 12 DC power and can be plugged in to cigarette lighter style power receptacles or permanently wired. A more luxurious (and expensive) update is a built-in food processor. These consist of a motor base or "power center" permanently mounted in an RV counter top and a set of attachments. Common attachments include blenders, mixers, ice crushers, can openers, and knife sharpeners. These appliances can provide substantial residential-style kitchen functionality without taking up a lot of room. Be sure to check out the handheld kitchen gadgets and appliances at your favorite RV or department store. You will find handy holders for napkins, paper towels, paper plates, paper cups, plastic bags, silverware, etc. A handy gadget that is inexpensive and easy to install is a trash bag holder that is made to use common grocery bags for trash bags. They can be attached just about anywhere, including on the inside of a cabinet door if there is space in the cabinet. They usually fold flat when not in use. Favorite bathroom accessories include a combination toothbrush/paper cup holder with a hinged lid that keeps dust out of the paper cups and off your tooth brushes. A hand-held mixer weighs less and takes up a lot less room than a full size mixer but is usually adequate for camp cooking. Some RVs are equipped with a built in Nutone blender that has a variety of useful attachments. It may be possible, though a bit pricey, to add one if you don't have one. Be sure you have either an available outlet or a way of installing one to plug it into and enough counter space to mount the motor base -- and someplace to store the many attachments!
Form versus function. There is an old architectural adage that "form follows function". Generally that is true, but when it comes to decorating, we often choose things for their form more than their function. That is perfectly acceptable in a house on a fixed foundation where you don't have to be overly concerned about weight or the house moving (except in an earthquake!). When choosing items for your RV, it is wise to consider function and avoid packing around a lot of extra weight just for something to look at. Aunt Martha's beautiful gilded antique mirror may look good on blank wall of your RV and may even be somewhat useful, but there is probably something more useful you could bring along with the same or less weight. I strongly suggest you avoid purely decorative items and focus on things that will make your life on the road easier or more comfortable. Of course, if your spouse insists on bringing Aunt Martha's mirror (or any other purely decorative item), the peace of mind and investment in the relationship will be well worth the extra weight. Make sure it is securely mounted.
More extensive renovations may be dictated by individual circumstances. If for example, you have had a fire or your RV has been involved in an accident, you may have to remove and replace damaged sections. You may also choose to make major changes to improve living space or add features. Some of the easiest and least expensive of the major mods involve replacing the furniture in the main living space. If you want to open up the living area but don't need the extra sleeping capacity of a sofa bed you can replace the sofa with individual chairs. Conversely, if you need more sleeping capacity you might be able to replace the lounge chairs and table with another sofa bed. Be sure to take careful measurements before embarking on any project that involves swapping major furniture or appliance components. You don't want to buy something only to find won't fit or you can't get through the door when you get it home.
Looking good!
You may have choices of interior decor when purchasing a new RV. Your choices will be limited if you buy from in stock inventory but if you order your unit you usually have several interior options to choose from. On used units you're pretty much stuck with what it is there -- at least to start with. But if you do buy a previously owned unit you don't have to live with an undesirable decor forever. It is possible to redecorate an RV. You probably won't want to paint the outside of your RV, although that is sometimes an option. Full body paint can be very expensive. Original interiors aren't usually painted, but painting the inside is certainly a possibility. If the cabinetry is very dark and you don't like it, you may be able to paint it to lighten things up. Keep in mind that some cabinetry surfaces are synthetic and may require special preparation before they can be painted. Check with a professional painter or qualified RV technician before beginning if you have any doubts about the composition of the cabinet surfaces, how to prep them, or your ability to access the situation. The same applies to wall surfaces. Some wood paneled interiors are natural wood, some are synthetic. Natural wood surfaces can sometimes be stripped and refinished. Synthetics usually can not. With synthetics you'll probably have to settle for painting them or covering them with wall paper or Contact paper or paneling over them.
Major exterior upgrades can be expensive. Repainting an RV or replacing all the faded graphics or doing a vehicle wrap are options, but they tend to be kind of pricey. You may be able to change the color of highlight stripes on and RV or add some simple stock graphics to enhance the exterior appearance without too much expense. I've repainted the stripes on trailers and truck campers and redone vinyls striping several times with good results. Remember that proper preparation is absolutely essential to professional looking results whether you're repainting stripes or adding graphics. Sometimes you can have custom graphics made to match faded originals. I was able to some badly faded name stickers on a motorhome by taking a digital photo of a sticker in good condition and having a local sign shop make me a pair of new ones for my motorhome. Be sure to take accurate measurements and give them to the sign shop so you get the right size. I might be good to make the new ones just slightly larger than the old ones so they completely cover where the old ones were and don't leave a "shadow" of faded (or unfaded) paint around the new ones.
Bedrooms. One of the easiest places to upgrade the interior appearance of your RV is the bedroom. You can replace worn, faded, outdated bedspread and pillow shams at low lost and little effort. It doesn't require any special tools or special skills beyond making a bed and can make a big difference in how it looks. If you coordinate the new accessories with existing curtains and valances its as easy as changing the sheets and bedspread and making the bed. For a more complete update, replace the curtains or blinds and valances to match the new bedspread. While you're at it, it might be a good time to upgrade the bedspread to a heavier comforter if you have had any trouble staying warm at night.
Upgrading the faucets in the kitchen and/or bathroom is another fairly inexpensive and easy way to modernize an older RV. Replacing a standard kitchen faucet with a high rise bar type faucet adds flexibility for filling hydration packs, canteens etc as well as makes it easier to wash and rinse large pots and pans. A new, more modern faucet is highly visible and adds a touch of elegance. This update is particularly appealing if the old faucet is leaking or has gotten clogged with hard water deposits. Replacing sink faucets is usually within the capabilities of the average do-it-yourselfer but if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, have it done by a qualified RV technician or a plumber. Many shower faucets can only be replaced from behind the shower enclosure and, unless you know how to get back there, you will either have to have it done by a professional who does or cut a hole in the shower enclosure to reach them (then you have to figure out how to repair the hole you made).
Another fairly easy upgrade to add functionality as well as modernize the appearance, is to add a tile backsplash to the kitchen or bathroom sink. You will need to measure the area and purchase enough tile, adhesive, and grout to do the job. Be sure to clean the old wall surface well so the adhesive will stick and make sure to line up the pieces of tile so they are straight.
Wall paper. Most RVs have a lot of natural wood finished paneling. It is easy to clean and compatible with most upholstery and flooring choices as well as having a rich and durable appearance. Some have one or more wall papered surfaces. These are the most common candidates for updating as they become faded, soiled, torn, or the design simply doesn't appeal to the owner. Old wall paper may be stripped or you may have to prepare the surface and apply new wall paper over the old. Check with a paint or hardware store to select appropriate tools and solvents to remove old wallpaper and a proper adhesive for use in your RV. A solution of a cap full of liquid fabric softener in about a quart of water is often an effective way to soften wallpaper so it can be removed more easily. RVs are subjected to environmental extremes beyond normal residential limits. At the very least, use a wallpaper paste made for use in bathrooms throughout your RV. It is more resistant to the changes in humidity and temperature that may occur in your RV. If you must install new wallpaper over old, check for any special preparation that may be necessary to ensure a smooth and durable installation and make sure the adhesive you use is compatible with the old surface. Self adhesive products like Contact paper come a variety of patterns and can sometimes be used to resurface damaged paneling. Since Contact paper usually has a plastic coating it is particularly good for use where the surface is exposed to water, such as on the walls around the bathroom sink. Of course, for a really professional repair of these areas, you could apply FRP (fiber reinforced plastic) panels over or in place of damaged walls. FRP is highly resistant to moisture. It is often used in commercial bathrooms and kitchens where the walls have to be water resistant and scrubable. FRP is available in home centers and is usually white or off white. It has a kind of pebble surface. There are a number of moldings available to join sheets or finish the edges for a very professional looking installation.
Wallpaper borders are an easy and fairly inexpensive way to add highlights to your RV. They are available in a variety of patterns to match just about any decor, taste, or hobby. My truck camper came with a fishing motif all around the cab over bed and I opted to replace it with a motocross pattern that matches our OHV activities better. Borders can be used to highlight any wall, not just wallpapered walls. In my camper they cover the valance over the tops of the windows surrounding the cab-over bed. Everything else is natural wood paneling. Wallpaper borders are typically installed at the top of the wall, just below the ceiling but are also sometimes used as a highlight at other heights. You probably don't want to use them where there will be high impact, like where the back of a chair hits the wall. Better to install an attractive wooden "chair rail" in places like that.
Upholstery. RV upholstery is generally pretty durable and will last for many years. Areas exposed to a lot of sunlight are likely to become faded or sun-rotted. Other places it usually becomes outdated long before it wears out. So you may want to change the upholstery even if it isn't damaged. Unless you have the experience and heavy-duty sewing machine needed, this is a job best left to professionals. Updating upholstery can greatly improve the appearance and sometimes the comfort of your RV seating. If seating surfaces have broken down, it is a good time to replace the damaged foam and/or padding when you change the upholstery. It will be more enjoyable for you to use and can boost resale/trade-in value. You may be able to achieve temporary updates using throw-covers and accessory cushions or pillows. If you reupholster your RV choose a sturdy, Scotchguard protected fabric or spray the new upholstery with Scotchguard before using the RV. Sometimes you can purchase replacement cushions (new or used) to fit your existing dinette and/or sofa. The chances of finding an exact match are probably slim, but you may be able to find something that complements the existing decor. Replacing cushions can solve problems of sagging and breakdown as well as improving appearance.
Slip covers and/or seat covers aren't usually used in RVs but it might be a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to overcome worn seating. You can probably buy ready made seat covers for the driver's and passenger seats in a motorhome. If you aren't comfortable with your skill to install them, have it done at an upholstery shop for best results. If you do it yourself, take plenty of time and make sure you align the seams properly and pull the covers tight before securing them in place with hog rings. Some temporary seat covers are secured with elastic straps and you should be able to do those without professional help. You may have to make, alter, or have made custom slip covers for other furniture. Because of the movement and frequent breezes in an RV, slip covers may not stay in place unless they are well secure with velcro or elastic straps. For a quick an easy cover up for a worn sofa, drape a colorful blanket like an Indian blanket or a serapi over it.
Vinyl surfaces. Many RVs, especially motorhomes, have large vinyl covered areas, including dashboards, side panels, and seats. If they are faded and need to be refreshed or you just want to change color, you may be able to use special vinyl spray paint available in auto parts stores. You will need to clean and prepare the surface according to the requirements of the product you will be using. Be sure to open the windows to make sure you have adequate ventilation since the fumes from solvents and paint can be toxic. Mask off any areas you aren't coloring to prevent over spray from settling on them. You may be able to restore luster and shine to moderately faded surfaces using a detail spray like SC-1. I have found the silicone based SC-1 to be more satisfactory than water-based automotive products like Armorall, but Armorall is still a good option.
Flooring. Floors can take a real beating and may become worn or discolored faster than any other part of the interior. Sometimes, if the flooring is not badly damaged, the appearance can be revived by a good detailing--stripping and re-waxing hard surfaces and shampooing carpets. You may be even able to dye faded carpets or if you just want to change the color or disguise stained or faded areas. If none of those solutions work or appeal to you, replacing RV flooring is not a terribly difficult task. Remove the old flooring. You may have to cut it where it goes under cabinets (many times the cabinets are installed on top of the original flooring). Inspect the sub-floor for damage or weak spots. You will want to repair any damage before installing your new floor covering. Any areas that have had water damage should definitely be replaced. You may have to cut the sub-floor to remove the damaged portion. Try to make the cuts over or near structural members (look for nail or screw lines or tap on the floor to find the joists). You will need to be able to secure the new piece of sub-floor to the joists. While you have the floor covering removed, check for squeaks or movement. These can often be corrected by adding screws into the joists. I prefer "Grabber" type screws like those used for drywall. I'd start with 1 1/4" screws to avoid over-penetration that might damage plumbing or wiring that runs beneath the sub-frame. You may want to change the type of flooring in some parts of your RV. Many older units are carpeted everywhere, but it might be useful to switch to vinyl or tile flooring in the galley and/or bathroom areas and retain the carpet in the bedroom. Updating the flooring will give new life to your RVs interior, adding both visual appeal and durability. A new, hard-surface in the galley area may make it easier to keep it clean. In some cases you may be able to apply new flooring over old, but in doing so you lose the opportunity to check for and repair any underlying damage and defects in the old surface may soon show through the replacement. You may be able to put new vinyl or tile or even carpet over old vinyl, or tile surfaces. If you want to change from carpet to vinyl or tile you MUST remove the old carpet. You will almost always have better results if you remove the old flooring first. If you remove the old floor covering carefully, in one piece, it might serve as a pattern for the new material.
Window treatments. Window treatments vary from unit to unit. Some have curtains or drapes, some have mini-blinds, some have roller shades, some have day/night shades. Some have a combination, even on the same windows. Over time any window covering is going to succumb to the ravages of sunlight and need to be replaced. In some ways, window coverings are designed to be sacrificial, taking the brunt of sunlight and saving more expensive components such as upholstery and carpets. Many RVs have upholstered valances that you may want to update along with other interior changes. Replacing faded, ragged, or non-functional window treatments can greatly improve the appearance, functionality, and comfort of your RV. Most updates are well within the capabilities of do-it-yourselfers. If you have basic tools and fundamental carpentry skills, you should be able to replace curtains, drapes, blinds, and shades and re-cover valances. Many times your upgrades (depending on what you choose) will provide better light control and increase insulation to make it easier to maintain desired temperatures inside your RV and reduce ambient light for sleeping in and improved afternoon naps.
For a novel wall treatment that is functional as well as decorative, consider carpet or tapestry. Carpeting all or part of a wall will add insulation and sound deadening qualities as well as covering up damage and improving the looks. Carpet is especially helpful where there might be things that swing against the wall. I used indoor-outdoor carpeting on the wall where I hang my tie downs in my motorcycle trailer so the hooks don't leave nasty rub marks on the painted wall. Use tapestries or Persian rugs for a more colorful, elegant, and decorative touch in your RV. Carpeted walls might be especially useful in the bedroom to both improve insulating qualities and control sound. You may even be able to glue a favorite fabric over paneling or existing wallpaper for a truly unique look. Fake brick is another fairly easy way to upgrade a wall. It is light weight, thin (usually about 1/2" or less), and easy to install. I can be used as a highlight or to cover up unsightly repairs just about anywhere you like or, use it in place of ceramic or glass tile splash guards in the kitchen and bathroom. One place it might be particularly attractive would be around an electric fireplace.
Lighting. Another fairly easy and relatively inexpensive upgrade that pays great dividends in usability and appearance is to upgrade lighting fixtures. As fixtures age, the plastic lenses become discolored, unsightly, and restrict light. Often you can just replace the lenses, making the fixtures look better and provide better light. Some older fixtures had opaque lenses that created a yellowish light. New replacement lenses are sometimes available in clear plastic the greatly increases the brightness as well as improving the appearance. If you choose to update the entire fixture, it isn't a particularly difficult task. Carefully remove the old fixture, noting the wiring connections. Clean the area around and behind it. Then install the new fixture, making sure you attach the wiring correctly. The 12 volt DC systems in RV usually have black wires for ground and red for the hot lead. Fixtures often have black ground and white hot leads. If you have any doubt about the fixture, trace the wires. The hot lead will go to the base of bulb, the ground will go to the socket. To verify the supply wiring you will need a test light connected to a known ground. When you touch the probe of the test light to the hot wire, the light will light up. Touching the ground will not cause the light to glow. Incandescent fixtures will still work even if they are wired backwards, but they may create a fire hazard, so check your wires carefully. Florescent or LED fixtures may not light up if wired backwards. When installing new fixtures, pay attention to any special warnings about clearances. Some fixtures generate more heat than others so a new fixture may be dangerous in the same place an old one was safe. Your choice of lighting fixtures will depend on your personal taste and your need for illumination. Adjustable "aircraft style" lights are popular additions where you need direct illumination for reading etc. Other lights may be purely decorative or cosmetic. I have a small fixture we've moved from RV to RV for years and years. It is about 4-5" square. It has white lights on each of two sides and deep blue lens on the main part of the fixture. The blue light is a nice night light for just relaxing or providing enough illumination to safely negotiate your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night without waking your companions. Rope lights are sometimes used to provide soft illumination near the floor or to create high lights on the ceiling or around cabinets. I try to avoid any fixture that sticks out very far from the wall or ceiling. Some look very nice, but given the restricted space inside most RVs, they tend to get bumped into a lot resulting in either damage to the fixture or the body parts that come in contact with it. LED conversions and fixtures are still relatively expensive, but not only will you enjoy aesthetic gains, you will conserve battery power and LED bulbs last a lot longer than regular bulbs.
Appliances. Upgrading appliances tends to be a little pricey, but if they are not functioning, are badly damaged, or are REALLY UGLY, you may want to go that route. Sometimes you can change the cover on the door of RV refrigerators to replace damaged or stained surfaces to simply update the look. If you can't replace it, you might try covering it with Contact paper for at least a temporary improvement. Replacing an RV range/oven or cook top can greatly improve the appearance of and modernize the galley. By dad stripped the synthetic damaged surface off a refrigerator door panel and refinished the underlying wood paneling with clear polyurethane. It looked great! If your appliances are working OK, you might repaint them to give them new life and improve their appearance. Be sure to use appliance paint, not ordinary general purpose spray paint. Water heaters and furnaces are usually out of sight and would only need replacement if they have failed and cannot reasonably be repaired or if you need/want to increase efficiency or capacity. Completely replacing appliances is expensive and often requires professional installation. You sure don't want any loose gas connections on stoves, furnaces, hot water heaters, or refrigerators! One way to save money on appliance is to locate some good used ones. I have had very good luck buying both furnaces and roof air conditioners from a local self-service junk yard. The prices were very good and the appliances worked very well. Like any other purchase of used equipment, inspect it carefully before concluding the sale. The seller plugged in the a/c unit for me to test it before I bought it. I couldn't test the furnace, but since it was only $25 I was willing to chance it, and it paid off. It worked perfectly. You may be able to change the look and/or color or cover stained or damage surfaces of an RV range using appliance paint. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for best results. If you have stainless steel appliances they can usually be cleaned with stainless steel polish or carefully polished with 0000 steel wool to clean and renew the appearance. These days you can replace the standard 6 or 10 gallon tank style water heaters with on demand units so you'll never run out of hot water -- as long as you don't run out of water! While some of these are designed to fit right into the same space as the original water heater, they are something 3-4 times as expensive, but it is a nice option to consider if you have the budget for it.
Mattresses/bedding. The original equipment mattresses that come in most RVs are usually NOT top-of-the-line. And in many cases, they are a custom size that is difficult to replace. If the mattress is structurally sound and not contaminated with odors, insects, or other pollutants, you may be able to have it re-covered or just fit it with a fitted mattress cover. Custom replacements can also be purchased. Today there are many good upgrades for RV mattresses to improve your sleeping comfort, including memory-foam mattresses and even "Sleep Number" beds. Replacing the comforter and shams will update the appearance of your bedroom quickly, easily, and fairly inexpensively. If the mattress has begun to break down you may extend its useful life with a mattress pad or mattress topper without the expense of replacing the mattress. I used a 4"memory foam mattress topper to augment a thin foam mattress in one of our RVs and it was very comfortable.
Rugs. An inexpensive way to deal with damaged or discolored floors is to add throw rugs. This is also a good way to prevent damage to permanent floors. These sometimes come in sets that include a long runner for the main aisle and mats for the entry and galley. Sets designed for RVs usually have non-slip backings that make them safer than their ordinary residential counterparts. If you find residential rugs you would like to use in your RV and they don't have non-slip backings, you use add-on non-slip pads to secure them in your RV. If your RV has vinyl or tile floors, rugs can add comfort on cold nights and help reduce heat loss through the floor. A thick fluffy bath mat is nice addition to almost any RV bathroom, regardless of what kind of flooring it has. It is a lot easier to remove for cleaning than permanently installed carpet!
Pictures/posters, etc. Most RVs have little wall space for pictures or posters, but if you do have blank wall space, there is no reason you can't add favorite pictures, photos, posters, or wall-hangings. Just make sure they are securely fastened to the wall. You will need extra screws or double-sticky tape or some florist's clay to prevent them from swinging around or falling off when the vehicle is in motion. If they are allowed to swing they will make ugly scars on the wall around them and could fall off and get broken or become dangerous projectiles during a fast stop or collision.
Potted plants and vases. I have seen potted plants and beautiful flower arrangements in RVs at RV shows and magazine ads. I've even seen them accent the patio area under the awning with potted trees. All these items add a nice, beautiful and homey touch for the display models, but I don't think they are very practical for use in any vehicle that spends any time at all on the road. If you happen to like that kind of decor, be sure you can secure all items safely during travel and only display them while you are camped. Consider whether you have room to carry them while traveling and whether they will be safe where they will neither get damaged or cause damage to you or your RV on the road. Personally, I prefer to allocate the weight to more useful items, but do what makes you (and your co-pilot) happy.
Accessories. There are many accessories that can add to the comfort and convenience of your RV. Oscillating fans are fairly inexpensive and easy to install. RV fans run on 12 DC power and can be plugged in to cigarette lighter style power receptacles or permanently wired. A more luxurious (and expensive) update is a built-in food processor. These consist of a motor base or "power center" permanently mounted in an RV counter top and a set of attachments. Common attachments include blenders, mixers, ice crushers, can openers, and knife sharpeners. These appliances can provide substantial residential-style kitchen functionality without taking up a lot of room. Be sure to check out the handheld kitchen gadgets and appliances at your favorite RV or department store. You will find handy holders for napkins, paper towels, paper plates, paper cups, plastic bags, silverware, etc. A handy gadget that is inexpensive and easy to install is a trash bag holder that is made to use common grocery bags for trash bags. They can be attached just about anywhere, including on the inside of a cabinet door if there is space in the cabinet. They usually fold flat when not in use. Favorite bathroom accessories include a combination toothbrush/paper cup holder with a hinged lid that keeps dust out of the paper cups and off your tooth brushes. A hand-held mixer weighs less and takes up a lot less room than a full size mixer but is usually adequate for camp cooking. Some RVs are equipped with a built in Nutone blender that has a variety of useful attachments. It may be possible, though a bit pricey, to add one if you don't have one. Be sure you have either an available outlet or a way of installing one to plug it into and enough counter space to mount the motor base -- and someplace to store the many attachments!
Form versus function. There is an old architectural adage that "form follows function". Generally that is true, but when it comes to decorating, we often choose things for their form more than their function. That is perfectly acceptable in a house on a fixed foundation where you don't have to be overly concerned about weight or the house moving (except in an earthquake!). When choosing items for your RV, it is wise to consider function and avoid packing around a lot of extra weight just for something to look at. Aunt Martha's beautiful gilded antique mirror may look good on blank wall of your RV and may even be somewhat useful, but there is probably something more useful you could bring along with the same or less weight. I strongly suggest you avoid purely decorative items and focus on things that will make your life on the road easier or more comfortable. Of course, if your spouse insists on bringing Aunt Martha's mirror (or any other purely decorative item), the peace of mind and investment in the relationship will be well worth the extra weight. Make sure it is securely mounted.
More extensive renovations may be dictated by individual circumstances. If for example, you have had a fire or your RV has been involved in an accident, you may have to remove and replace damaged sections. You may also choose to make major changes to improve living space or add features. Some of the easiest and least expensive of the major mods involve replacing the furniture in the main living space. If you want to open up the living area but don't need the extra sleeping capacity of a sofa bed you can replace the sofa with individual chairs. Conversely, if you need more sleeping capacity you might be able to replace the lounge chairs and table with another sofa bed. Be sure to take careful measurements before embarking on any project that involves swapping major furniture or appliance components. You don't want to buy something only to find won't fit or you can't get through the door when you get it home.
Looking good!
Monday, May 30, 2011
RV Entertainment Systems
Today's technology offers many electronic entertainment options for RVs and campers, ranging from portable radios and TVs you can use on your picnic table to complete home theater entertainment systems in RVs. Portable TVs can be used by just about any camper if you have power to operate them. Power could come from campground utilities, portable generators, or invertors and battery packs. A portable TV may be used to receive over-the-air broadcasts or display VHS and DVD movies. Some portable systems are even adaptable to tent camping. My son's new minivan has a built-in inverter and AC outlets that could power small 120 volt appliances in camp but it is necessary to keep an eye on the battery charge level. Same with some of the pickup trucks equipped with 120 volt outlets to charge cordless tools. Of course, battery powered radios and "boom boxes" can be used anywhere and I've even seen small battery powered TVs. With access to campground WiFi or your own cell phone "hotspot", your laptop or tablet becomes a portable movie/TV system.
Permanently mounted systems in motorhomes and travel trailers are only limited by the owner's preferences and budget -- and available space to install them. Portable and permanent satellite systems are available, including automatic systems that can be used when the vehicle is in motion. Some luxury motorhomes have large LCD or Plasma TVs with VHS, DVD, BluRay players, video game systems, and elaborate Surround-sound systems just like a home theater. TVs and other electronic equipment can be added to just about any RV if you have some cabinet space you can sacrifice for the installation and an appropriate source of power. Many RV entertainment systems are just adapted residential systems and require 120-volt AC power but there are TVs, DVD and VHS players and receivers designed to run on 12 volts DC. If you need to run residential style units but don't have a generator, you may be able to use an inverter to convert 12-volt DC to 120-volt AC power -- IF you have a large enough battery bank. Today's flat screen TVs take up a lot less space, aren't nearly ahs heavy, can be mounted in more places, and use a lot less energy than yesterday's old CRT models. We recently picked up a pair of flat screens with built-in DVD players, paying only about $175 for the two of them! The light weight means they can be mounted on thin RV walls that would have never supported a heavy CRT. Since they only stick out a few inches they don't intrude so much into the usually very limited living space in an RV. And the lower power requirements mean you will be less likely to run down your batteries if you power them using an inverter. There are components especially designed for RV use. They will usually have 12 volt DC power but often have dual power options. They may offer a few other advantages over adapting residential equipment, such as reduced size or weight and specially "hardened" electronics to make them less vulnerable to the vibration and shock found in vehicles.
Wall-mount radio systems. In recent years there have been a number of wall-mount entertainment systems designed specifically for use in RVs and travel trailers. They are shallow so they can be mounted in a thin RV wall and usually include an AM/FM stereo receiver. Older units had a cassette player while more modern versions have a CD player. The older cassette style units can often be acquired at bargain prices on ebay and other web sites. Some of the newer and more expensive models even have DVD players but you'll need a conveniently placed monitor to view them. Of course you can use an under-dash automotive radio under or in an RV cabinet, but usually it is easier to find a more convenient place for a wall mount. These are fairly inexpensive ways to add basic entertainment systems to campers and older trailers. I even have one in my enclosed motorcycle trailer for weather updates and some music while doing routine maintenance and repairs.
Mobile versus residential technology. In many cases you can adapt ordinary residential equipment for use in an RV. However, residential units are not typically designed to endure the rigors of travel. You are better off if you can purchase units designed and "hardened" for mobile use. When mounting electronic equipment in an RV you have two diametrically opposed needs: secure mounting and isolation from vibration. Most residential units are designed to sit on a shelf so you'll have to engineer a way to secure them for RV travel. To further protect sensitive electronics from vibration, use rubber "isolation" mounts if you can. You need to anchor your equipment so it doesn't bounce around during transit yet so it is isolated from road vibration. Speaker systems need to be isolated so they don't transfer vibrations to the surrounding cabinetry which can distort the sound.
The speaker systems standard in many RVs tend to come from the low end. If you value rich sound from your CDs and movies you may want to upgrade your speakers. The easiest solution is to replace existing speakers with high quality units of the same size and shape. Alternatively you may be able to enlarge the existing space or install larger speakers or additional speakers in, on, or under cabinets. Since you're in a fairly small enclosed space you won't need a lot of sound to produce satisfactory performance. A fairly inexpensive and easy solution is a "sound bar". You won't get full home theater sound but you should see a significant improvement over what comes out of the tiny little TV speaker and all you have to do is plug them in and find a place to set them. Some are designed to fit specific TV models.
Advanced sound systems. There are advanced sound systems on the market that have microphones that sense speaker performance and adjust output dynamically to maximize listening enjoyment. Given that RVs are not designed with acoustical superiority in mind, these systems can at least partially compensate for physical limitations. These systems are not cheap, but may be worth the investment if you value high quality sound and spend enough time using your RV entertainment system to justify the cost. Clearly, if you can't hear any difference, there is no point paying big bucks for a fancy sound system.
Outside Entertainment Systems are becoming more popular. It makes sense, because we spend so much of our camping time outside. They may range from a simple radio/casette/CD player mounted in an outside cabinet under the patio awning to complete home theater systems with flat panel TVs that swing out from outside cabinets. Of course, an old-fashioned "boom box" works too. Weatherproof speakers mounted in the outside wall provide audio, but due to the nature of their construction to resist the elements, the way they must be mounted, and the near total lack of acoustic control in the outdoors, the sound quality won't match interior systems. Even so, they can provide hours and hours of highly enjoyable entertainment. One note of caution: be considerate of your fellow campers when using outside entertainment systems. Your neighbors may not share your appreciation of bone-rattling bass or screeching heavy metal music. NEVER play at high volume during "quiet hours" and be mindful of the impact on nearby folks at all times. If your RV didn't come with an outside entertainment system you may be able to install one yourself in an available cabinet space. Since there won't be built-in compartments for the speakers you may have to use external box speakers that attach to the side of your RV. For safety you may want to use removable speakers so they don't get snagged by trees or signposts when you are driving -- or appropriated by thieves! And weather eventually takes its toll on even outdoor rated speakers.
Generator power for electronic equipment. RV generators usually supply appropriate power for electronic equipment, but they must be tuned to operate at the right speed to produce correct 60-cycle AC current. AC stands for Alternating Current. The positive and negative legs of the circuit switch or alternate 60 times a second. If you find that electric clocks run too fast or too slow when powered from your generator, the speed is off and needs to be adjusted. There are frequency meters you can buy that plug into an outlet and let you monitor the frequency, but they are a little pricey. An incorrect frequency can seriously affect the performance or even damage sensitive electronic equipment. If you have any doubts about your generator's performance, have it checked and adjusted by an electrician or a qualified RV technician.
Battery and inverter power. Inverters are used to convert DC power from 12 volt batteries to 120 Volt AC to operate appliances and electronic equipment. Be sure you have sufficient battery capacity to furnish the power you need. Some electronic equipment requires clean, sine-wave AC power. Some cheaper inverters create a "modified sine wave" which is adequate for some appliances but will not usually work well with sensitive electronic equipment. What you really want is a an inverter with "true sine wave" technology. Of course, such units are going to cost more. You will need sufficient battery power to be able to use your inverter. You need to calculate the power needs of all the equipment (both your entertainment systems and other RV systems such as your furnace, light, and water pump) and ensure you have enough batteries to provide power for the length of time you expect to be using the inverter. When making your caclulations find out the overhead of the inverter and include its power usage in your requirements. Unless you have a solar charging system you will need to run the vehicle engine or the generator periodically (or plug into shore power) to recharge the batteries. Unless you need the generator for something else, like running the A/C, it is probably more efficient to charge the batteries using the vehicle alternator by running the vehicle engine. Inverters are good for powering small 120 Volt appliances for a short time during quiet hours when you can't run the generator. Some of the big luxury motorhomes today use inverters (and huge battery banks) to power residential refrigerators and other high power appliances.
Trouble shooting. The more sophisticated your entertainment system is, the more there is to go wrong with it. Yet many of the most common problems are simple to diagnose and repair. Given the normal vibration and "tweaking" of RVs, loose connections are a prime source of poor performance. If you start having problems with sound quality or your system doesn't turn on, check all the connections before you call in a repairman. Of course, it it doesn't turn on, check to make sure you have power to the unit. Check the fuse(s) and make sure both the hot and ground wire connections are secure. Problems with sound on one side may indicate faulty wiring or a blown speaker, but make sure to check the balance control first to make sure it isn't just mis-adjusted. If you have access to the speaker wiring you can test for bad speakers or speaker wiring by switching the wires. Connect the wires for the good channel to the bad side speaker and the wires for the bad channel to the good side speaker.. If you still have poor sound on the same side, the problem is the speaker or the wiring to that speaker. If the problem moves to the other speaker, you have a problem inside the amplifier and that will probably require professional diagnosis and repair. Most components of today's entertainment systems are not designed to be repaired by the consumer in the field. Even the pros often have to remove them and take them back to the shop where they have proper diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot the problem. Many electronic devices are designed to be disposable and to be replaced rather than repaired these days. The main lesson here is to check all the connections before you fork out $$$ for professional help or new equipment. Loose connections can be easily fixed and are a very common cause of failures in mobile entertainment systems.
RV entertainment systems can provide many hours of pleasure and supply what is sometimes much-needed distraction in bad weather where our intended outdoor activities are thwarted by Mother Nature. Entertainment systems in motorhomes and tow vehicles can significantly reduce the incessant chorus of "are we there yet" that is inevitable when traveling with small children, or anyone with a similar mentality and attitude. I envy the "back of seat" DVD players my kids use to entertain their kids on trips. We had to improvise with lots of verbal games on the road. With movies to watch, "Are we there yet?" might change to "Are we there already?".
Specialized radios that may be useful in an RV include two-way radios and weather radios. A weather radio is a radio with special channels that received NOAA weather broadcasts. Many have built in alarms that respond to severe weather alerts. Two-way radios can be useful in communicating between vehicles caravaning to or from a camp site, assisting a driver and spotter in backing a vehicle into a tight spot, or talking with companions who are out hiking or riding. Hand held "walkie talkies", including FRS (Family Radio Service) and GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) radios, are among the most convenient for use around camp. FRS radios do not require a license. GMRS radios operated on GRMS frequencies require an FCC license, which costs $85.00! Channels 2-14 on most GRMS radios operat at FRS frequencies and require no license -- but they only operate at 1/2 watt and have limited range. The other channels on 22 channel GMRS radios typically operate at 1-5 watts but you need the GMRS license to use them. Special helmet-mounted units are really nice if you're out on an OHV, personal watercraft, or horse. A permanently installed CB (Citizens Band) radio is handy for talking with other drivers on the highway. Commercial truckers often use CB radios and you can learn a lot about traffic and road conditions just by listening to their chatter. When CBs first came out they required an FCC license but they no longer do. You might even get some tips about the best diners to stop at -- and which ones to avoid. For more sophisticated two-way communications consider ham radios. These definitely require an FCC license but they have much greater range. Participation in a ham radio club may give you access to "repeaters" -- special unmanned stations that relay your signal -- for even greater coverage.
With so many Internet and computer options available these days, you may want to include a way to connect your laptop, tablet, or smart phone to your RV entertainment system
VHS tapes and DVDs can provide many hours of entertainment in camp if you have the equipment to play them. You will need to find a safe place to store them during travel. VHS tapes need to be kept away from sources of electromagnetic radiation. Do not store them near any 120-volt motor, your inverter or converter, or even electronic equipment such as TVs and movie players. DVDs aren't magnetic so they won't be affected by electricity but you do want them store away from heat, moisture, and dust. A tightly sealed plastic container, such as Tupperware, is a convenient way to organize movies and protect them from dust and moisture. Online systems like Roku and expand your entertainment options if you have internet access. You may be able to use a Wifi "Hot Spot" on your cell phone to power your Roku if you aren't in a campground with Wifi.
Analog versus digital TV signals. The older, CRT style TVs in many older RVs may need to upgraded in order to receive current digital over-the-air signals. This would require an analog-to-digital converter and switching the TV antenna to one designed for digital reception. The older TVs should still be perfectly fine playing video tapes and DVDs. Converting from an old CRT style to a modern LCD or Smart TV is always an option. New TVs are surprisingly affordable. You can often install a much larger flat screen TV in your RV, improving the picture quality and reducing weight. Flat screen TVs will have a much different footprint and installation requirements than the old CRT models so you may have to modify the cabinets to get a professional looking conversion. Flat screen TVs can often be wall mounted whereas older CRT based units needed deep cabinet spaces. Installing a flat screen TV might even give you some additional storage or room for additional equipment like DVDs and audio systems.
For a movie-theater experience in camp, don't forget the popcorn! If you have an RV with electronic entertainment systems it probably has microwave oven so you can have popcorn ready in minutes. Lacking a microwave, Jiffy-pop is an easy way to do popcorn over a campfire or your RV or camp stove. For a more nostalgic approach, get a metal campfire popcorn cooker and popping the corn over the campfire may be almost as entertaining as the movie! Actually, in some cases it might be a lot more entertaining! For many of us, the candy counter at the movie theater is almost as important as the movie that's playing. You can purchase many popular "theater sized" candies at places like Walmart and at the convenience stores at travel centers and truck stops to help make your experience even more fun. Those of us from the Saturday matinee generation can find nostalgic candies online at places like OldTimeCandy.com and even at Amazon.com
Th-th-th-that's all folks!
Permanently mounted systems in motorhomes and travel trailers are only limited by the owner's preferences and budget -- and available space to install them. Portable and permanent satellite systems are available, including automatic systems that can be used when the vehicle is in motion. Some luxury motorhomes have large LCD or Plasma TVs with VHS, DVD, BluRay players, video game systems, and elaborate Surround-sound systems just like a home theater. TVs and other electronic equipment can be added to just about any RV if you have some cabinet space you can sacrifice for the installation and an appropriate source of power. Many RV entertainment systems are just adapted residential systems and require 120-volt AC power but there are TVs, DVD and VHS players and receivers designed to run on 12 volts DC. If you need to run residential style units but don't have a generator, you may be able to use an inverter to convert 12-volt DC to 120-volt AC power -- IF you have a large enough battery bank. Today's flat screen TVs take up a lot less space, aren't nearly ahs heavy, can be mounted in more places, and use a lot less energy than yesterday's old CRT models. We recently picked up a pair of flat screens with built-in DVD players, paying only about $175 for the two of them! The light weight means they can be mounted on thin RV walls that would have never supported a heavy CRT. Since they only stick out a few inches they don't intrude so much into the usually very limited living space in an RV. And the lower power requirements mean you will be less likely to run down your batteries if you power them using an inverter. There are components especially designed for RV use. They will usually have 12 volt DC power but often have dual power options. They may offer a few other advantages over adapting residential equipment, such as reduced size or weight and specially "hardened" electronics to make them less vulnerable to the vibration and shock found in vehicles.
Wall-mount radio systems. In recent years there have been a number of wall-mount entertainment systems designed specifically for use in RVs and travel trailers. They are shallow so they can be mounted in a thin RV wall and usually include an AM/FM stereo receiver. Older units had a cassette player while more modern versions have a CD player. The older cassette style units can often be acquired at bargain prices on ebay and other web sites. Some of the newer and more expensive models even have DVD players but you'll need a conveniently placed monitor to view them. Of course you can use an under-dash automotive radio under or in an RV cabinet, but usually it is easier to find a more convenient place for a wall mount. These are fairly inexpensive ways to add basic entertainment systems to campers and older trailers. I even have one in my enclosed motorcycle trailer for weather updates and some music while doing routine maintenance and repairs.
Mobile versus residential technology. In many cases you can adapt ordinary residential equipment for use in an RV. However, residential units are not typically designed to endure the rigors of travel. You are better off if you can purchase units designed and "hardened" for mobile use. When mounting electronic equipment in an RV you have two diametrically opposed needs: secure mounting and isolation from vibration. Most residential units are designed to sit on a shelf so you'll have to engineer a way to secure them for RV travel. To further protect sensitive electronics from vibration, use rubber "isolation" mounts if you can. You need to anchor your equipment so it doesn't bounce around during transit yet so it is isolated from road vibration. Speaker systems need to be isolated so they don't transfer vibrations to the surrounding cabinetry which can distort the sound.
The speaker systems standard in many RVs tend to come from the low end. If you value rich sound from your CDs and movies you may want to upgrade your speakers. The easiest solution is to replace existing speakers with high quality units of the same size and shape. Alternatively you may be able to enlarge the existing space or install larger speakers or additional speakers in, on, or under cabinets. Since you're in a fairly small enclosed space you won't need a lot of sound to produce satisfactory performance. A fairly inexpensive and easy solution is a "sound bar". You won't get full home theater sound but you should see a significant improvement over what comes out of the tiny little TV speaker and all you have to do is plug them in and find a place to set them. Some are designed to fit specific TV models.
Advanced sound systems. There are advanced sound systems on the market that have microphones that sense speaker performance and adjust output dynamically to maximize listening enjoyment. Given that RVs are not designed with acoustical superiority in mind, these systems can at least partially compensate for physical limitations. These systems are not cheap, but may be worth the investment if you value high quality sound and spend enough time using your RV entertainment system to justify the cost. Clearly, if you can't hear any difference, there is no point paying big bucks for a fancy sound system.
Outside Entertainment Systems are becoming more popular. It makes sense, because we spend so much of our camping time outside. They may range from a simple radio/casette/CD player mounted in an outside cabinet under the patio awning to complete home theater systems with flat panel TVs that swing out from outside cabinets. Of course, an old-fashioned "boom box" works too. Weatherproof speakers mounted in the outside wall provide audio, but due to the nature of their construction to resist the elements, the way they must be mounted, and the near total lack of acoustic control in the outdoors, the sound quality won't match interior systems. Even so, they can provide hours and hours of highly enjoyable entertainment. One note of caution: be considerate of your fellow campers when using outside entertainment systems. Your neighbors may not share your appreciation of bone-rattling bass or screeching heavy metal music. NEVER play at high volume during "quiet hours" and be mindful of the impact on nearby folks at all times. If your RV didn't come with an outside entertainment system you may be able to install one yourself in an available cabinet space. Since there won't be built-in compartments for the speakers you may have to use external box speakers that attach to the side of your RV. For safety you may want to use removable speakers so they don't get snagged by trees or signposts when you are driving -- or appropriated by thieves! And weather eventually takes its toll on even outdoor rated speakers.
Generator power for electronic equipment. RV generators usually supply appropriate power for electronic equipment, but they must be tuned to operate at the right speed to produce correct 60-cycle AC current. AC stands for Alternating Current. The positive and negative legs of the circuit switch or alternate 60 times a second. If you find that electric clocks run too fast or too slow when powered from your generator, the speed is off and needs to be adjusted. There are frequency meters you can buy that plug into an outlet and let you monitor the frequency, but they are a little pricey. An incorrect frequency can seriously affect the performance or even damage sensitive electronic equipment. If you have any doubts about your generator's performance, have it checked and adjusted by an electrician or a qualified RV technician.
Battery and inverter power. Inverters are used to convert DC power from 12 volt batteries to 120 Volt AC to operate appliances and electronic equipment. Be sure you have sufficient battery capacity to furnish the power you need. Some electronic equipment requires clean, sine-wave AC power. Some cheaper inverters create a "modified sine wave" which is adequate for some appliances but will not usually work well with sensitive electronic equipment. What you really want is a an inverter with "true sine wave" technology. Of course, such units are going to cost more. You will need sufficient battery power to be able to use your inverter. You need to calculate the power needs of all the equipment (both your entertainment systems and other RV systems such as your furnace, light, and water pump) and ensure you have enough batteries to provide power for the length of time you expect to be using the inverter. When making your caclulations find out the overhead of the inverter and include its power usage in your requirements. Unless you have a solar charging system you will need to run the vehicle engine or the generator periodically (or plug into shore power) to recharge the batteries. Unless you need the generator for something else, like running the A/C, it is probably more efficient to charge the batteries using the vehicle alternator by running the vehicle engine. Inverters are good for powering small 120 Volt appliances for a short time during quiet hours when you can't run the generator. Some of the big luxury motorhomes today use inverters (and huge battery banks) to power residential refrigerators and other high power appliances.
Trouble shooting. The more sophisticated your entertainment system is, the more there is to go wrong with it. Yet many of the most common problems are simple to diagnose and repair. Given the normal vibration and "tweaking" of RVs, loose connections are a prime source of poor performance. If you start having problems with sound quality or your system doesn't turn on, check all the connections before you call in a repairman. Of course, it it doesn't turn on, check to make sure you have power to the unit. Check the fuse(s) and make sure both the hot and ground wire connections are secure. Problems with sound on one side may indicate faulty wiring or a blown speaker, but make sure to check the balance control first to make sure it isn't just mis-adjusted. If you have access to the speaker wiring you can test for bad speakers or speaker wiring by switching the wires. Connect the wires for the good channel to the bad side speaker and the wires for the bad channel to the good side speaker.. If you still have poor sound on the same side, the problem is the speaker or the wiring to that speaker. If the problem moves to the other speaker, you have a problem inside the amplifier and that will probably require professional diagnosis and repair. Most components of today's entertainment systems are not designed to be repaired by the consumer in the field. Even the pros often have to remove them and take them back to the shop where they have proper diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot the problem. Many electronic devices are designed to be disposable and to be replaced rather than repaired these days. The main lesson here is to check all the connections before you fork out $$$ for professional help or new equipment. Loose connections can be easily fixed and are a very common cause of failures in mobile entertainment systems.
RV entertainment systems can provide many hours of pleasure and supply what is sometimes much-needed distraction in bad weather where our intended outdoor activities are thwarted by Mother Nature. Entertainment systems in motorhomes and tow vehicles can significantly reduce the incessant chorus of "are we there yet" that is inevitable when traveling with small children, or anyone with a similar mentality and attitude. I envy the "back of seat" DVD players my kids use to entertain their kids on trips. We had to improvise with lots of verbal games on the road. With movies to watch, "Are we there yet?" might change to "Are we there already?".
Specialized radios that may be useful in an RV include two-way radios and weather radios. A weather radio is a radio with special channels that received NOAA weather broadcasts. Many have built in alarms that respond to severe weather alerts. Two-way radios can be useful in communicating between vehicles caravaning to or from a camp site, assisting a driver and spotter in backing a vehicle into a tight spot, or talking with companions who are out hiking or riding. Hand held "walkie talkies", including FRS (Family Radio Service) and GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) radios, are among the most convenient for use around camp. FRS radios do not require a license. GMRS radios operated on GRMS frequencies require an FCC license, which costs $85.00! Channels 2-14 on most GRMS radios operat at FRS frequencies and require no license -- but they only operate at 1/2 watt and have limited range. The other channels on 22 channel GMRS radios typically operate at 1-5 watts but you need the GMRS license to use them. Special helmet-mounted units are really nice if you're out on an OHV, personal watercraft, or horse. A permanently installed CB (Citizens Band) radio is handy for talking with other drivers on the highway. Commercial truckers often use CB radios and you can learn a lot about traffic and road conditions just by listening to their chatter. When CBs first came out they required an FCC license but they no longer do. You might even get some tips about the best diners to stop at -- and which ones to avoid. For more sophisticated two-way communications consider ham radios. These definitely require an FCC license but they have much greater range. Participation in a ham radio club may give you access to "repeaters" -- special unmanned stations that relay your signal -- for even greater coverage.
With so many Internet and computer options available these days, you may want to include a way to connect your laptop, tablet, or smart phone to your RV entertainment system
VHS tapes and DVDs can provide many hours of entertainment in camp if you have the equipment to play them. You will need to find a safe place to store them during travel. VHS tapes need to be kept away from sources of electromagnetic radiation. Do not store them near any 120-volt motor, your inverter or converter, or even electronic equipment such as TVs and movie players. DVDs aren't magnetic so they won't be affected by electricity but you do want them store away from heat, moisture, and dust. A tightly sealed plastic container, such as Tupperware, is a convenient way to organize movies and protect them from dust and moisture. Online systems like Roku and expand your entertainment options if you have internet access. You may be able to use a Wifi "Hot Spot" on your cell phone to power your Roku if you aren't in a campground with Wifi.
Analog versus digital TV signals. The older, CRT style TVs in many older RVs may need to upgraded in order to receive current digital over-the-air signals. This would require an analog-to-digital converter and switching the TV antenna to one designed for digital reception. The older TVs should still be perfectly fine playing video tapes and DVDs. Converting from an old CRT style to a modern LCD or Smart TV is always an option. New TVs are surprisingly affordable. You can often install a much larger flat screen TV in your RV, improving the picture quality and reducing weight. Flat screen TVs will have a much different footprint and installation requirements than the old CRT models so you may have to modify the cabinets to get a professional looking conversion. Flat screen TVs can often be wall mounted whereas older CRT based units needed deep cabinet spaces. Installing a flat screen TV might even give you some additional storage or room for additional equipment like DVDs and audio systems.
For a movie-theater experience in camp, don't forget the popcorn! If you have an RV with electronic entertainment systems it probably has microwave oven so you can have popcorn ready in minutes. Lacking a microwave, Jiffy-pop is an easy way to do popcorn over a campfire or your RV or camp stove. For a more nostalgic approach, get a metal campfire popcorn cooker and popping the corn over the campfire may be almost as entertaining as the movie! Actually, in some cases it might be a lot more entertaining! For many of us, the candy counter at the movie theater is almost as important as the movie that's playing. You can purchase many popular "theater sized" candies at places like Walmart and at the convenience stores at travel centers and truck stops to help make your experience even more fun. Those of us from the Saturday matinee generation can find nostalgic candies online at places like OldTimeCandy.com and even at Amazon.com
Th-th-th-that's all folks!
Friday, May 27, 2011
Some Cool RV/Camping Links
You may notice a couple of new links at the top of the home page -- right below the SEARCH box. These were originally mostly links to Good Sam club pages but limitations of the page layout have pushed some of them off the page. Here are some of the "missing links" followed by some additional links you may find helpful:
"Discount Camping" " takes you to the Good Sam Club home page where you can learn about the benefits of joining the world's largest and oldest RV association.
"RV Travel" takes you directly to a sign-up page and a discounted Good Sam Club membership offer. Good Sam is the largest recreational vehicle club in the world and one of the oldest. They enjoy an excellent reputation for providing services and information for RV owners. Good Sam members can contact "Sambassadors" in almost any region to obtain information on local attractions, traffic, and road conditions. In many cases they provide volunteer assistance to stranded travelers. The informative monthly magazine, Highways and the web site alone are worth the modest annual dues, to say nothing of the excellent discounts offered by many campgrounds and camping supply stores. Good Sam has many local chapters. Some focus on charitable causes, such as Dogs for the Deaf. Many focus on specific niches of campers: singles, retirees, pet owners, etc. You many find a nearby group that fits your lifestyle and needs.
Good Sam membership now includes membership in Camping World's President's Club, which gives you a 10% discount on all Camping World merchandise.
The Utah Trail Machine Association is the oldest and largest dirt bike club in Utah. Check out their web site www.utma.net for a good example of the benefits of joining an OHV club.
Desertrat.org is the web site for my old southern California riding group. The Desert Rats are an unofficial group of family-oriented, recreational OHV riders. Most are dirt bikers, but the group has been known to include ATVs, side-by-sides, dune buggies, Jeeps, and 4WD trucks. They head out to selected staging areas in the Mojave Desert just about every holiday weekend. There are no dues, no meetings, and no fees. Just good clean fun. This web site a good example of what you might create for your own group of recreationalists and the kind of thing that you might find that others have created for activities that interest you.
Everything About Rving is wonderful site for RVers. Like this blog it is filled with useful information and they offer a free Ask An RV Question Page that makes it really easy to get answers to your questions.
Free Campsites its a web site that helps your find free campsites all over the United States. You can search by location or use their map to find free camp grounds near you.
Check out these good links!
"Discount Camping" " takes you to the Good Sam Club home page where you can learn about the benefits of joining the world's largest and oldest RV association.
"RV Travel" takes you directly to a sign-up page and a discounted Good Sam Club membership offer. Good Sam is the largest recreational vehicle club in the world and one of the oldest. They enjoy an excellent reputation for providing services and information for RV owners. Good Sam members can contact "Sambassadors" in almost any region to obtain information on local attractions, traffic, and road conditions. In many cases they provide volunteer assistance to stranded travelers. The informative monthly magazine, Highways and the web site alone are worth the modest annual dues, to say nothing of the excellent discounts offered by many campgrounds and camping supply stores. Good Sam has many local chapters. Some focus on charitable causes, such as Dogs for the Deaf. Many focus on specific niches of campers: singles, retirees, pet owners, etc. You many find a nearby group that fits your lifestyle and needs.
Good Sam membership now includes membership in Camping World's President's Club, which gives you a 10% discount on all Camping World merchandise.
The Utah Trail Machine Association is the oldest and largest dirt bike club in Utah. Check out their web site www.utma.net for a good example of the benefits of joining an OHV club.
Desertrat.org is the web site for my old southern California riding group. The Desert Rats are an unofficial group of family-oriented, recreational OHV riders. Most are dirt bikers, but the group has been known to include ATVs, side-by-sides, dune buggies, Jeeps, and 4WD trucks. They head out to selected staging areas in the Mojave Desert just about every holiday weekend. There are no dues, no meetings, and no fees. Just good clean fun. This web site a good example of what you might create for your own group of recreationalists and the kind of thing that you might find that others have created for activities that interest you.
Everything About Rving is wonderful site for RVers. Like this blog it is filled with useful information and they offer a free Ask An RV Question Page that makes it really easy to get answers to your questions.
Free Campsites its a web site that helps your find free campsites all over the United States. You can search by location or use their map to find free camp grounds near you.
Check out these good links!
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