Bath and Shower Options While Camping

Getting dirty is a part of camping. Whether you are back packing, roughing it in a makeshift tent or enjoying the conveniences of the most luxurious motorhome, your outdoor activities will subject you to dust and dirt and sweat and eventually you'll look forward to a bath or shower. And it is more than just a personal luxury. It can be essential to your health and comfort, especially if you are stranded in the wilderness. It is also critical to ensure you are pleasant to be around!  How, when, and where you bathe will depend on your situation and the facilities available to you. If you are staying in a commercial campground they will probably have public showers available for your use. Some people are reluctant to use them due to modesty concerns or fear of exposure to germs. Both of these issues can be overcome. If your concern is modesty, monitor the shower usage by other campers and choose a time when usage is low. In most cases there will be individual dressing areas and shower stalls that usually provide adequate privacy. Usually they are NOT like the old community shower rooms in junior high school but will have individual stalls! As for germs, wear shower shoes or "flipflops" to avoid walking on possibly contaminated floors and avoiding pain from hot sidewalks and gravel pathways getting there and back. Portable wooden shower platforms can keep your feet off any shower floor you find suspicious.  They can also usually double as carrying case to transport your shower supplies back and forth between your camp site and the showers.  If you're really worried about contamination, wash your feet again when you get back to your tent or RV or wipe them with hand sanitizer or wet wipes.

Of course, if you're in a fully-equipped, self-contained RV, you have your own shower and don't have to worry about exposure -- visually or microbe-ally. You just need to make sure you have sufficient hot water. RV water heaters are small compared to residential units. That means you'll run out of hot water much faster. To avoid running out, limit how long you run you shower before you get in, running it just enough for the water to get warm. Then shut it off while you're soaping, scrubbing, and shampooing and turn it on again to rinse. This technique, sometimes known as a "Navy shower", will conserve hot water, reduce consumption of fresh water when dry camping, and minimize filling of holding tanks. A shutoff on the shower head makes it more convenient to conserve water and avoids dousing yourself with hot or cold spurts while you readjust the temperature if you have to turn off the main faucets.  Don't try to do too many showers one after the other. You'll quickly run out of hot water -- unless your RV is equipped with an "instant", on demand hot water heater. One way to make sure you don't run out of hot water when you're staying in a campground with showers is to take advantage of the camp showers and save your on board hot water for washing dishes and hands.  Unless you have an on demand water heater you will want to schedule showers in your RV at different times so you don't try to go back-to-back which is usually a sure way to run out of hot water before you're done.

Sun Showers are a convenient way to get a warm shower when you are tent camping, don't have a shower in your RV, or just want to conserve resources. These are black plastic bags with attached tubes fitted with shower heads. Fill the bag with water and leave it out in the sun for a few hours. Laying it on the hood of your car or truck on on the picnic table are good options. Avoid laying it on cool grass as it take longer to heat up enough to use. Laying it on hot pavement may speed warming. When it is warm enough (let a little water out of the shower head to test it or just feel the bag), hang the shower from a tree branch, an awning or canopy, or from a roof rack on your vehicle. In a pinch you could attach it to the top of a car door. You might have to stoop a little, but it would work. Some folks use the sun shower in their RV shower to conserve and control water use and reduce hot water demand. There are some nice accessories you can use with Sun Showers -- or with the outside showers that are now featured on many RVs. They include enclosures and portable shower platforms. The enclosures are simple tent-like structures about 3 feet square. Some are self-supporting, some need to be hung from a tree or other overhead support or attached to a vehicle. They usually don't have a roof or floor, just walls.  Make sure you know what kind you're buying to get the one that will work for you. Portable shower platforms are small wooden or plastic affairs that are usually hinged so they can be folded to half their size for transport and storage. These give you something to stand on so you're not standing in mud or potentially contaminated floors while showering. They are typically about 3" tall and perhaps a foot square when folded up, giving you a 1' x 2' platform when open. Soap-on-a-rope is handy too. There also are also soap boxes on ropes to keep your soap out of the dirt. Keep an eye on the Sunshower bag to be sure you don't use up all your water before you rinse off the soap!   They are usually opaque so you can't see the water level, but  you can judge how much is left by the shape of the bag.  Plan ahead and hang your towel where it will be convenient but won't get wet. If you're boondocking and really worried about running out of water, allocate a gallon jug of water per person for showers instead of using up the supply in your fresh water tank.

A simple alternative to a sun shower is to use your hydration pack (Cambelbak). The amount of water is limited so you'll have to be frugal. The bladder for your hydration pack is probably a light color or nearly clear so it won't absorb heat as well as a Sun Shower.    You'll have to remove the bite valve to get water to flow.  Also, don't fill your hydration pack with non-potable water just to take a shower. You don't want to contaminate your drinking water container.

Wet wipes can be used for quick clean ups and cat bathes. They are convenient and usually include an antibacterial agent to ensure good sanitation. Sometimes you can get generic wet wipes or baby wipes at dollar stores to make them affordable.  The ones that are individually wrapped are particularly convenient for tent camping and back packing.  You might want to tuck a couple in your fanny pack or Enduro jacket when off-roading so you can clean your hands before any snack or meal out on the trail.

Natural bathing opportunities. If you are tent camping, back packing, or don't have a shower in your RV, you will need to seek other opportunities for bathing or showering. If you are near a lake or stream you may be able to use that. However, keep in mind that many recreational waterways are also sources of drinking water. In some cases entering the water at all may be prohibited. If there are no such posted prohibitions, use common sense and minimize your pollution contribution. If entry is prohibited you may be able to carry a bucket of water a safe distance (usually plan on about 200')  from the shore to bathe with so runoff doesn't contaminate the source. Just rinsing off the accumulated dust and sweat is refreshing. If you must use soap, use a bio-degradable soap (available where ever camping supplies are sold) and in any case, minimize what you do use. For modesty and privacy you are not likely to choose a place within sight of other campers, but if you are bathing in a stream, avoid doing so upstream of where other campers might draw water for cooking or drinking or where they are swimming.  Chances are very good these days that just about any body of water near enough to civilization to be a convenient camping destination will be a drinking water source, perhaps even YOUR drinking water source.  Think about that before abusing lakes and streams.

Air showers. If you have no water for bathing, as might happen in a survival situation, take an "air shower" every day or two while back packing or in survival mode. Strip down as far as you comfortably can given climate and fellow campers, hang your clothes out to dry, and let the sun and air dry your body and your clothes for a couple of hours every day or two. Be sure to avoid sunburn! Exposure to sun and air gets rid of excess sweat and the UV rays from sunlight kill germs. An air shower may not be as satisfying and effective as a real H2O shower, but it is better than nothing and, in survival mode, may help keep you healthy until you can be rescued. You'll feel better putting on clothes that have been sun-dried and freshened by the breeze -- and probably more pleasant to be around.

Smoke showers are similar to air showers but you use the smoke from a smouldering campfire to help kill bacteria. Punky wood from rotten stumps usually makes quite a bit of smoke. Smoke from juniper or pine boughs might lend a pleasant fragrance that will be refreshing. Sagebrush smoke contains antibacterial agents and makes a good smoke shower. Sagebrush smells much better than most body odors.   Killing odor-causing bacteria does more than make you more pleasant to be around. It can help keep you healthier in a survival situation.

Cat baths. If water is scarce, you can take "cat baths", using wet wipes or a washcloth and a bowl or pan of water. You can take a cat bath just about anywhere: in your tent, in your RV, or in the bushes.  Cats hate water but are very fastidious about keeping themselves clean -- without a lot of water.  A cat mostly uses its own saliva and its paws for bathing but that doesn't work too well for humans.  You will want to use a bowl or pan of water and a washcloth. Anything you can do to keep you body clean will make you more comfortable and will help prevent illness and infection. For added comfort, use warm water, heated over a campfire or by the sun.  You might set a clean, empty gallon juice jug or a rinsed out 2-liter soda bottle out in the sun to get it warm to conserve propane as well as water.  You can use an empty milk jug but be sure to wash it out thoroughly so there is no residue to go sour.

Keep clean. You will feel better, look better, and your companions will be grateful!

Is RVing Really Camping?

There are some purists who would claim RVing isn't really camping.  After all, our RVs are designed to provide all the conveniences of home. How can staying in a climate controlled home on wheels with residential comforts be compare to "real" camping in a tent?  Detractors are certainly entitled to their opinions and to camp (or not) in the way that suits them. But for many people, RVing provides wonderful camping adventures. Admittedly, camping in an RV allows you to bring along many of the amenities of home, sort of "roughing it easy", but at the same time you share a lot of the aspects of all other forms of camping. For some people with physical limitations, tent camping may not be an option at all, but using an RV can provide them with the benefits of being able to enjoy visiting our beautiful parks, forests, and beaches and share in many camping activities. I had a friend whose wife was definitely not a camper and, until he purchased a small RV, she flat out refused to join him and their sons on any of their OHV outings.  She never was converted to riding a dirt bike, but at least she got to join them for camping.  My own family loves camping in an RV.  And yes, we've gotten a little spoiled by comfortable beds, a place to get in out of the weather when it gets cold, and an air conditioned sanctuary in hot climates.  The girls are especially grateful to have clean, private, on board sanitation facilities.

Many aspects of camping are not dependent on whether you're staying in a tent or an RV. Both share campfires and campground camaraderie. Both get you out of town and into the great outdoors. Both allow you to enjoy extended visits to some beautiful scenery and experience historical and geological features up close. Both get you closer to nature admittedly some versions get you closer than others. Not everyone appreciates having a close physical relationship with rocks under their sleeping bags.   Both offer opportunities to experiment with and practice survival skills and try out some primitive technologies. Both are filled with wonderful teaching moments and chances for truly quality family time. There is no excuse for one group to look down on the other. It doesn't matter if you're camping in a million dollar motorhome or a second-hand tent. After all, we have more in common than we have in differences and we're all seeking the same thing: fun -- and escape from our hectic, work-a-day lives.  And, I'm sure, we can all learn from each other.

Next time you find yourself sharing a campground with folks who chose a different style of camping then yours, be tolerant and appreciative. A young family camping in a beat up old tent may be doing the best they can with the resources they have available. Admire their commitment to do something with their families. The older couple camping in a big RV may have health issues or physical problems that would make tent camping impractical or impossible. They may have scrimped and saved for years to buy an RV. Acknowledge their courage to venture out at all and allow them to enjoy the spoils of a long and productive life.

Some people may choose tent camping for the adventure and a way to experience some pre-technology living in a kind of "back to nature" thing. It is also a way to practice survival skills that may come in handy during an emergency. You may be a lot warmer in a tent in your backyard than in your house if utilities are cut off for an extended period of time. And for sure your campfire and camp stove cooking skills will come in useful if the gas and electricity are off.

Some folks choose the RV lifestyle for its home-like comforts and conveniences. We found a motorhome was an ideal base camp for our dirt biking excursions. Our activities were focused on riding, not emulating traders, trappers, explorers or mountain men. The motorhome gave us a comfortable refuge from extreme weather, provided power to operate tools that made dirt bike maintenance faster and easier (old fashioned tire pumps do work, but they are slow and take a lot of effort!), and supplied sanitation facilities in remote desert environments that were especially appreciated by the females in my family. We were able to keep the motorhome stocked between trips so it was pretty much ready to go on a moment's notice, allowing us to take advantage of spontaneous outings to the beach or woods from time to time and to provide disaster recovery when needed. Even with the motorhome we had many opportunities to practice primitive skills building campfires and cooking outdoors. I've got to admit, having an air conditioned RV to escape the summer heat or a heated one to combat being out in the rain and snow, was definitely a significant advantage.

RVing would definitely have been considered camping and rather primitive to one of my friends, whose idea of "roughing it" is having to ring twice for room service.  But you might have trouble getting a Scoutmaster to sign off a camping merit badge if you did all your camping in a 45' luxury RV.

I have found RV camping to be ideal for my family, especially in support of our dirt biking adventures.  Admittedly, we enjoy the conveniences our comfortable RV offers us whether we're in the hot desert or the cool mountains, yet we also very much enjoy being out "in the wild" and appreciate evening campfires and star gazing -- and then having a comfortable bed to rest in at the end of the day.

Regardless of your current camping style, you may find yourself experiencing the other side of camping sooner or later. Tent campers may move up to RVs as their budgets and wants dictate. RV owners may some day find the lifestyle too expensive or may want to do something more primitive again. We fell back on tent camping this fall when our truck was broken down so we couldn't use our camper for a local trip to enjoy the exciting fall colors in a nearby canyon. The twisty, narrow roads weren't compatible with our large Class A motorhome. So we pulled out the tents and made the best of it. I suspect we'd have been more comfortable in our camper but even as long-term RVers, the tent outing was an enjoyable and memorable family experience.  So much so that we'll probably schedule another one soon, even though the truck/camper and motorhome are available.

So, whether you choose to camp in a teepee or a covered wagon, you can still enjoy some pioneer adventures and quality time with your loved ones. From my point of view, camping is camping, regardless of whether your abode rolls on wheels or rolls up!

Camp out!

When Should You Go Camping, RVing or OHVing?

When should you go camping, RVing, or OHVing?  Best answer:  as often as you can!  But when is the best time to start camping, RVing, and/or OHVing? How about NOW? Some people put it off until they think they can afford it or have the time for it and by doing so may never get around to it. Some people think they need to put it off "until the kids are older".  For the most part those are not valid reasons, they're just excuses.  My suggestion is start NOW and go as often as you can. You may dream of owning and using a luxurious Class A motorhome, but it might not be in your budget yet. Begin with what your budget can handle today and make the time. You may have to spend some of your savings, but money spent can usually be replaced. Time, once spent, is gone forever! I recall hearing about a young man who, long after he had left home, fondly remembered the vacations his family had taken together. He recalled that for most of his growing up years they had been trying to save money to add a second bathroom to their small house, but kept spending the building fund on family vacations. It is doubtful that he would have recalled the second bathroom with the same fond memories he had of family vacations. What if NOW is the dead of winter? Snow camping IS an option for some people but for those who aren't ready for that particular experience you can start researching, acquiring and preparing your gear, equipment, skills, and training.

What seasons are best for camping? You can camp in all seasons, but most people don't do a lot of camping in winter. In some areas, extremely hot summers may also be a deterrent to outdoor activities. July and August are not the best times to visit the Mojave Desert but is a good time to hit the beaches or the mountains to escape the heat! Late spring and early fall are usually quite comfortable in most areas. If it is winter and you have decided you want to become a camper, use the time now to research your options and acquire and prepare your equipment and to learn about necessary camping skills so you'll be ready when the first robin of spring shows up. By the time the snow melts you'll be chomping at the bit to get out and try out your new toys and skills.  If, per chance, you are REALLY anxious to get started, look into winter camping.  It takes some special preparations, but it can be well worth it.

Once you've decided to try camping, how do you get started? First, take inventory of the resources you may already have. Do you have an SUV or other vehicle you could sleep in or use to tow a trailer? If so, you might start your camping adventure using that as your "RV". Just pack up some blankets and pillows and some food. Since you'll have limited resources on board, it might be good to start out staying in developed campgrounds where you will have access to picnic tables, fire pits, and restrooms. You may have to add a camp stove or portable BBQ and a cooler if you don't already have them. To keep the cost down, check out local classified ads and Internet sources such as ebay and craigslist. Watch for sales a local sporting goods stores or other places that sell camping equipment. I once bought a brand new 7'x7' umbrella tent for $10 at a sidewalk sale at a hardware store. It was missing one piece of the frame that I was able to fabricate from thin wall conduit for a couple of bucks. Garage sales are another good resource for adding to your camping equipment. Many people have excess camping equipment they've accumulated over the years or things they no longer need as their camping lifestyle as evolved and you can sometimes get extraordinary bargains at garage sales. Many times it has seen little use and may even be brand new!  Do your homework before you go shopping so you'll know a good deal when you see one. I wouldn't pay much more than $25 for a used Coleman lantern at a garage sale because new ones aren't that much more expensive (around $40). But for $10 or $15 it might be worth having if it is pretty much complete. Tents are another good thing to look for at garage sales. You probably won't get the latest models, but you may get a good price on older units that can serve you well. I bought a 10x14 canvas cabin tent through a local classified newspaper for under $50. It had a few rips that needed repairing, but with just a little TLC it was perfectly serviceable. I originally bought it to use for a portable dirt bike garage when were were camping, but ended up also using it on some tent camping ventures. If you can, try out camp stoves and lanterns before buying them. By the time they get in garage sales they've often been in storage a long time and may need reconditioning before they can be used, even if they haven't been used much. But don't be afraid of making repairs if they are complete and appear to be in good overall condition. I would shy away from gas stoves or lanterns if the pressure tanks leak. The pumps that pressurize them dry out but can be rebuilt easily and inexpensively, so it isn't a big deal if the pump leaks;  Sometimes all it needs is a few drops of oil to soften and swell the leather washer inside.  But if the fuel tank is rusted through or the seams are leaking, it will have to be replaced. Other components are also easy and fairly cheap to replace: control valves and generators. The generator is a tube that converts liquid fuel to vapor to power the stove or lantern. Check out previous post "What Should You Have To Begin Camping, RVing, and/or OHVing?   for more equipment details.

Next steps. Once you have acquired the basic equipment, learn how to use it. I suggest setting up camp in your own back yard a few times before venturing out. That way, if you've forgotten anything or run into to any problems, you are where you can quickly and easily deal with them and where your comfort, safety, and survival aren't in jeopardy. Next I would suggest camping in developed campgrounds close to home where you will have access to support facilities and knowledgeable camp hosts. Once you're comfortable in that environment, you might might be ready to venture out to more primitive camp sites and more challenging adventures.

Getting started OHVing. As much fun as it would be to buy everyone in the family brand new OHVs, if you're anything like me, it isn't in the budget. We started out with just two dirt bikes, both Kawasakis: a KE 125 dual sport bike for my wife and I and a KD80M for the boys who were about 8 and 10 at the time. We didn't yet appreciate the appeal it would have for the younger kids. It didn't take long to figure out we needed more bikes for more riders so we started checking out the local classifieds for some good deals. Even the youngest children wanted their own bikes, and getting them was one of the best investments we ever made! You can usually save quite a bit of money buying from a private party but whenever you do the seller won't assume any liability so if the bike breaks down the next day, you're stuck with it. A reputable dealer will usually give at least a 30 day warranty on used vehicles but you will pay more than you will if you purchase from a private party. Be sure to ask for maintenance records when you buy from a private party. You will need to make your purchase plans based at least in part you your own skills and ability to recognize and take care of any problems that might come up. You don't have to start out on dirt bikes. If you and your family are more interested in ATVs, look for some good used ATVs. ATVs are somewhat more stable for novice riders, but we had really good luck putting our "younguns" on 50cc dirt bikes. Sometimes they needed training wheels for a while, sometimes their bicycle skills were already good enough to safely handle the little motorcycle. Remember, an OHV needs to feel good to the rider and be fun to ride. If you don't feel comfortable on it or it isn't fun to ride, look for another vehicle. Size, power, suspension, seat and handlebar design and setup all affect how a vehicle feels, so don't be afraid to try a variety of configurations. If a vehicle feels too big, try a smaller one. If it feels unstable or "squirrely", try a bigger one. If it is too powerful for your current skills and taste, get one with a smaller engine or just take it easy for a while. If the suspension and setup aren't right, see if they can be adjusted to your size and weight and riding ability. Even while looking to buy your first OHV, start developing a network of fellow riders you can go out with for the first few trips. Having experienced leaders to guide you will greatly enhance your enjoyment the first few times out and you'll learn a lot of good riding, maintenance, repair, and navigation tips. So pay attention!

Entering the RV lifestyle. You may someday want to explore the RV lifesytle as a more comfortable alternative to tent camping. Here you will need to do more homework to determine which type of RV is right for you and then to find one within your budget. I offer my own experience as one possible path. Yours may be different. My first "RV" was a 1951 Chevrolet Suburban. It began life as a utility vehicle for a school district. When I bought it, it had only a front seat and the back was completely open. I made curtains for the windows. My wife and I slept in sleeping bags on the floor. I fashioned supports to fit across the rear compartment, resting on the window sills. I put a "bunky board" from an old set of bunk beds on the supports to provide a second sleeping level for our two kids. A plastic basin and a couple of 5-gallon water jugs, an ice chest, a camp stove, a Coleman lantern, and a couple of camp chairs completed our equipment list. Our first trip was exciting and quite pleasant. It was so nice to roll into camp, roll out our sleeping bags, and be ready to rest while other people were still wrestling with setting up tents in the wind and the dark! The sturdy old Suburban was also much more comfortable in the wind and rain than a tent. No uncontrolled flapping and no leaks! And no rocks under our sleeping bags.

After several years of camping in the Suburban, I found a good deal on a Class B motorhome (van conversion) and we began to move up. It was fundamentally a 3/4 ton Ford van conversion. I learned it had been custom built for an engineer who was working and living in Israel. It was not fully self contained, but was definitely a step up from the Suburban. It had a small refrigerator that ran on propane or 12-volt electricity. We felt we were in the lap of luxury making ice cubes while driving down the road. It had a real sink and faucet and a propane stove and a tiny little propane heater with no fan. The rear dinette made down into a comfortable full size bed and the kids were once again relegated to the "penthouse". Their bunks were up in the "pop top" that gave stand-up headroom (a definite improvement over the old Suburban). It even had a porta-potty tucked away in one of the cabinets, a definite advantage for women and children.

Eventually our family outgrew the Class B van conversion. It worked really well for 2 adults and a couple of small kids, but by the time our kids started getting bigger and our brood had grown to 4 children, we needed more room. There was barely room for even 4 of us to stand in the little Class B, let alone perform routine functions such as cooking and setting the table or getting ready for bed without climbing over each other. Our next step was a 19' Class C motorhome. It was a "bunkhouse" model with tons of sleeping capacity -- designed for at least 6 adults. You could probably squeeze in 7 if you put three people in the cab-over sleeper, but I figure you'd better be pretty good friends -- or you certainly would be by morning! This was our first nearly self-contained motorhome. I say nearly because it didn't have a generator. But it did have a hot water heater and full bathroom facilities plus a stove and oven and a real, forced air furnace. It even had a swamp cooler for hot days. We soon learned one of the disadvantages of a swamp cooler when we tried to use it while traveling. Even a normal lane change would cause the water in the cooler to slosh over and spill into the interior of the coach, soaking anyone and anything beneath it! This little Class C became our base of operations for our first dirt bike trips. We hung a pair of basket carriers on the front and back and loaded up a couple of dirt bikes and headed out into the Mojave Desert for some good family fun. My older boys' previous BMX bike experience served them well and they were soon showing ME how to jump a dirt bike. They took to that dirt bike like they had been born to it! A 19' Class C doesn't provide much walking around room, but preparing and serving meals and getting ready for bed was much less cramped than in the little van conversion and sleeping accommodations were a lot better. Having access to full sanitation facilities was a real blessing while dry camping in the desert (especially with a wife and two daughters!) where the nearest restrooms were at least 12 miles away. It is amazing how good a nice shower feels after a day in the sun and dirt!

I won't bore you with the rest of the step-by-step migration to our current Class A diesel pusher. Suffice it to say, our needs and wants grew over time and we continued to upgrade as appropriate opportunities presented themselves. As we observed fellow campers and inspected other rigs we began to see the advantages of features we had previously considered unnecessary or frivolous. The front lounge we once considered a big waste of space became a necessity after a couple of trips with 6 kids in one without it! But you get the idea of how your camping experience can evolve over time. Your first RV might be a tent trailer or a truck camper or small travel trailer instead of an old Suburban. You need to do what is right for YOU, not blindly follow what I, or anyone else, has done or tells you to do. Most important of all, DO SOMETHING!

What about kids? There have been attempts by well-intentioned but ill-informed do-gooders to prevent youngsters from riding OHVs. No doubt other activities have also been targeted, ranging from rifle skills to little league baseball. For the most part, these folks are WAY off the mark. OHV riding, starting kids out young has its place in OHV riding and other camping activities. Of course it must be done responsibly. What is REALLY irresponsible is to deny youngsters the opportunity to learn early. Our youngest son began dirt biking when he was less than 4 years old. We were at Spring Fling, our annual spring vacation outing in the Mojave Desert in April when he began seriously asking to ride. We told him he'd have to learn to ride his bicycle without training wheels before he could try riding the little 50-cc bike his brothers and sisters learned on. When we got home from that trip he jumped out of the motorhome and ran to get his bike. He brought it back and laid it down on the parking strip as we were sill unloading our motorcycles and announced firmly "Take 'em off!", pointing to his training wheels. He spent the next month vigorously practicing and on the very next trip for Memorial Day, he rode 13 miles of a Poker Run on a little motorcycle with wheels about the size of a pie plate -- and wanted more! Our other kids didn't start out quite as young, but everyone of them was a competent rider before they hit first grade. I've seen plenty of teens get hurt trying to learn to ride later in their lives. By then they're beginning to feel the invincibility that comes with being a teenager and too often think they can do anything their friends can do, without admitting their friends have been riding and developing skills for years. One of my oldest son's friends even had to be air-lifted out of a remote area with a broken collar bone after failing to negotiate a sharp turn and going over the bars trying to keep up with his more experienced friends. We started our kids out sitting on the gas tank and giving them rides. It allowed them to experience the sights, sounds, and feel of riding and let us explain the function of throttle, brake, and clutch so it would all be familiar when they finally got to ride their own little bikes. The tiny 50-cc motorcycles they started on didn't have clutch levers, just a centrifugal clutch that helped reduce the number of simultaneous skills they had to master. These little bikes are often fitted with devices to restrict throttle movement and reduce power through exhaust restrictors to make them pretty mellow for novice riders and allow them to "grow" with the rider's skills. Our youngest daughter started out on a 50-cc Italjet when she was about 5. Eventually, by the time she was in about the 3rd grade, she had inherited a 60-cc Honda from an older brother and could keep up with anyone. The Honda was a "real" motorcycle, with clutch lever and 6-speed transmission. When she was about 12 or 13 she astonished mature riders as she stayed right on their back fenders through all kinds of difficult terrain on her 125cc Kawasaki. Upon returning from one ride, one of the very good adult riders commented that he "had a kid on his tail" the whole ride and couldn't shake him and when they got to the top of Government Peak the kid took off his helmet and the adult rider was blown away to discover "it was a chick!" Whenever you start riding -- or start your kids riding -- make sure to wear proper protective gear. NEVER ride without a helmet. Proper boots, gloves, goggles, and appropriate jersey and pants plus kidney belt knee guards and chest protectors should be worn for every ride. I also like elbow protectors that put a lot more between your funny bone and rocks or hard ground than the soft pads in your jersey. Believe me, hitting your funny bone on the rocks is NOT funny! NEVER ride in a T-shirt or tank top! You may think it looks and feels cools, but between sun and windburn and the road rash you'll pick up if you bail, it just isn't worth it and you'll actually feel cooler in a vented jersey that protects your arms from direct sunlight. Avoid dark colors that will absorb the heat and make you harder to see.

Weekends are the most common time for camping, RVing, and OHVing.   But they aren't the only time you can go, if you can get away from your daily grind.  Mid-week outings can be less crowded and less stressful and are good times to explore new places and activities.  Once you're comfortable with your outdoor routine you can go just about any time.  Summer vacations and 3-day weekends give you some extra time to enjoy the great out doors.

One you get started, get out as often as you can.  When our kids were growing up we went dirt biking almost every holiday weekend.  The timing was just about right, far enough apart to look forward to each outing and close enough together so we could retain our confidence and continue to learn and improve things on each trip.  I would suggest setting a goal of getting out once a month for the same reasons.

Start NOW!

Where Should You Go Camping, RVing, and OHVing?

Once you've decided camping, RVing, or OHVing is something you want to try you need to decide where to go. I strongly recommend you first experience camping and RVing at home -- in your own backyard or driveway. Spend a few nights sleeping in your RV or set up your tent in your backyard and sleep in it for a few nights. This will give you a chance to practice getting your tent or RV ready when you have an immediate recovery plan (go back inside!) if anything goes wrong. It also lets you begin to acclimate to a new sleeping environment to minimize the variables you'll face on an actual camping trip. You can try out different bedding options to see what works best and have time to pick up a better sleeping pad if the one you have isn't doing the job (or if you don't have one). If you have a tall enough tent, you might want to try sleeping on a cot instead of on the ground.  Cook a few meals in your RV or on your camp stove. After you feel comfortable you can move on to an actual camping trip.

Some generic camping destinations to choose from.   Here are a few tried and true kind of places to go camping:

    State/County/Federal Parks
    Beaches
    Deserts
    Mountains
    Lakes/streams
    Private campgrounds and resorts
    Forest Service and BLM camping areas

First outing. For your first outing I suggest you choose a campground close to home and go with someone who has some experience. That offers several advantages. It won't take long to get there so you should have plenty of set up time. You don't want to have to set up your first camp in the dark. It won't take long to get home again if something goes wrong. You should already be familiar with local facilities and shopping if you need medical or mechanical assistance or additional supplies. For comfort and convenience I would choose a developed campground rather than starting off boondocking or dry camping. Developed campgrounds typically have paved or graveled, level parking, picnic tables, fit pits, and restrooms. Many also have a small camp store where you can buy some RV supplies and basic provisions if you run short. The camp host can usually provide information about local attractions and activities and camping advice if you need it. Should you experience any mechanical breakdown or failure of RV systems you can probably call a mobile technician to come to your aid.  If you have family or friends that are already experienced campers, see if you can tag along with them for your first few outings.  Going with someone who knows what they're doing and is familiar with the area is especially helpful for maiden OHV trips.   Having someone to lead the way and set the pace can make your initiation more pleasant.  Our first dirt bike outing was based largely on hearsay and, while we found the right general area and basically had a good time, we missed out on some really great trails we could have enjoyed if we'd had someone knowledgable to lead us.

Venturing out. As you become more comfortable with your equipment and your own skills, you can venture out on more extensive trips and may even be ready to try boondocking or dry camping in a more primitive setting. The primary criteria for selecting such a destination should be your personal interests. Pick a camp ground at or near a location that appeals to you, perhaps someplace with historical or geological significance or someplace near an attraction that appeals to you and your family. If your plans include OHV activities, you'll want to pick an appropriate area where OHVs are permitted. For your first few OHV trips, it is a good idea to go with someone who already knows the area and can fill you in on the condition of trails and skill level required. Be sure to pay attention to your fellow campers: how they set up their camps, how they prep their OHVs, how they choose trails, how they ride. Watch for procedures and equipment that may improve and enhance your own experience. You can learn a lot from the "old timers". And "old timers" don't have to be grizzled veterans. A lot of teen-aged riders have been riding since before they were in kindergarten and can be the source of a lot of good riding and equipment maintenance tips and assistance. Don't discount them because of their youth. Many know exactly where they're going, what they're doing, and are very competent ride leaders and mechanics. I have 4 boys and 2 girls and even the girls were competent riders, leaders, and mechanics by the time they were in junior high. My oldest daughter went on to race Women's Desert Expert in southern California for several years, often totally on her own, setting up her own camp and doing her own maintenance and repairs on her race bike.

On your own. Eventually you'll feel confident going out on your own, picking your own campsites and choosing your own OHV trails. Make sure are properly prepared for whatever you choose to do. If you have developed your knowledge and skills as described above and taken advantage to learn from the experience of fellow campers, you should be able to organize a successful solo trip for your family. Even so, you may soon learn you miss the companionship of fellow campers. When you first choose to go out on your own, invest a little extra time checking your equipment and supplies to be sure you have everything you will need and that everything is in good condition. Make sure you know where the nearest emergency medical facilities are and the best way to get there -- just in case someone is injured or gets sick. Where practical, bring along more supplies than you think you'll need. Many people run out of water or fuel for their OHVs much sooner than they think they will, and, if you're boondocking, water and fuel will be some distance away. If your OHVs require mixed gas, make sure you bring along extra 2-stroke oil and something to measure and mix the fuel and oil. I've seen desperate riders just guess how much oil to add directly to their gas tanks, but that is a fabulously bad idea. Put in too much and you'll foul plugs. Put in too little and you'll seize your engine. Neither is very conducive to a fun ride. In my motorcycle trailer I carry an extra 1-gallon plastic gas can to mix fuel and use a device called a Ratio-Rite to measure the oil. The Ratio-Rite is a tapered, graduated cup that shows you exactly how much oil to add to various amounts of gasoline to achieve the required fuel mixture. You can buy them at motorcycle, marine, and other OHV shops. Sometimes they are available in hardware and home centers for use with chain saws and other 2-stroke equipment. Be sure you know what mixture your engine requires and avoid using anything but the designated mixture. Sometimes, in an emergency out on the trail, you may have to borrow fuel from another rider. If you have a choice, try to use fuel that is as close to your mixture as possible. In a pinch, it is better to use a richer mixture (higher oil content) than a leaner one. The richer mixture may cause your engine to blow smoke and may foul plugs, but a leaner mixture may not provide enough lubrication and the engine may seize and be permanently and expensively damaged. Fouled plugs are a nuisance and can spoil a ride, but they are cheap and easy to replace, even out on the trail (you should always carry spare plugs if you're riding a vehicle with a 2-stroke engine). Make sure you have the right spark plug wrench in your tool kit or fanny pack. It is impossible to change the spark plug on some engines without a special spark plug wrench. I had a friend whose bike fouled plugs so often that he wore a shotgun bandolier filled with spare plugs!

Where? Anywhere YOU like!

Why Should You Begin Camping, RVing, and/or OHVing?

I recall a philosophy final exam with only one question:  WHY?  One of the acceptable answers that got high marks, was "Why not?".  Indeed, that might be an appropriate answer the the question "Why Should You Begin Camping, RVing, and/or OHVing?".

The biggest reason to start camping, RVing and/or OHVing is: IT IS FUN! There are many associated activities that are enjoyable and even educational, but the main thing is that going camping, RVing, and OHVing is just plain fun. All are an escape from our everyday lives and a chance to do something different, a potentially productive diversion that is badly needed in our hectic modern lives. They all offer great opportunities for quality time with our families and for developing long-lasting friendships. Camping gives us a tiny insight into how our pioneer ancestors might have lived along with a chance to practice and develop fundamental skills that may serve us well in case of a major natural or man-made disaster at home. Most camping, RV, and OHV activities also provide good physical exercise beyond our normal routine of pushing the buttons on the remote! If anyone tries to tell you riding a dirt bike, jet ski, snowmobile, or ATV isn't exercise, let them try it! I am often amused by folks who choose golfing for the exercise, then rent electric golf carts to haul their sagging bodies around the course. Riding a dirt bike or an ATV on rustic trails is a far cry from cruising the groomed paths of a golf course on the cushy seat of an electric golf cart.  Supercross, which is a stylized form of dirt biking, is said to be THE most physically demanding sport in the world!  Don't believe me?  Just try it!  If you don't get a good workout,  you're not doing it right!

Practice survival techniques. Camping and RVing are great ways to practice survival techniques that may be useful in case of a major disaster. A major disaster is likely to overwhelm local emergency services and you could be entirely on your own for a couple of weeks or more. No fire department, no police, no ambulance, no hospital, no grocery stores, no utilities, no operating gas stations. If you have good camping skills and/or know how to use your RV and are properly prepared, you will be able to take care of the needs of you and your family until normal services are restored. Think about what skills and equipment you would need to survive if your house were knocked down by an earthquake or destroyed by fire, wind, riots, or flood.

Educational opportunities -- teaching moments. Camping, RVing, and OHVing offer ways to teach many lessons to our kids and grandkids. Basic skills such as fire building or setting up an emergency shelter are usually a routine part of camping. Being out away from our homes also provides a setting for learning and teaching about the environment, including plants and animals, weather, and astronomy. RVing and OHVing can help kids learn responsibility and valuable mechanical skills as they help prepare for, conduct, and cleanup after outings. OHV activities can also boost kids' personal self esteem and at the same time teach teamwork and cooperation.

Having fun. I can't tell YOU how to have fun. I can only tell you what is fun for me and my family. You have to find out for yourself what is fun for you. We like dirt biking and the camping in our RV that goes with it. That includes riding, campfires, singalongs, pot-luck dinners, swapping tall-tales, and assisting our fellow riders. Sometimes it includes skeet shooting, horseshoes or tossing around a frisbee or football. Even mealtime should be fun. We try to have food we like that can be easily prepared at camp and usually bring along special treats according to the season. Hot chocolate and cookies for cold weather, snow-cones for desert summers. Impromptu pot-luck dinners with fellow campers are lots of fun. You may want to select a "signature" treat to share with your companions. A lady in our Desert Rat dirt bike group shared a great chili and cream cheese dip and corn chips. Another fellow camper likes to whip my elegant hors d'oeuvres like bacon-wrapped, stuffed jalepenos. The hot dip was particularly easy and so very welcome on chilly (pun intended) evenings in the desert. Snowcones and a special "Cucumber punch" were among our favorite contributions to our summer Desert Rat trips.

Why? Because it is fun!

What Should You Have To Begin Camping, RVing, and/or OHVing?

The main thing you need to get started is desire. You just have to want to do it. Then decide where you'd like to go and how you'd like to get there. Next, decide exactly what you want to do and begin working toward acquiring the equipment, knowledge, and skills to do it.  Keep in mind just buying the right gear and equipment is only the beginning.  Before you can enjoy using it you're going to have to learn how to set it up, how to maintain it, and how to use it properly.  Proper use of camping, RV, and OHV equipment is necessary for safety as well as for enjoyment.

Here is a list of basic equipment to get you started:
    Tent or other shelter (RV, SUV, pickup with a camper shell)
    Sleeping bags or blankets
    Ice chest
    Cooking facilities: stove or portable BBQ
    Lantern or flashlight(s)
    Axe or hatchet
   Water jug

Some optional items to make things more comfortable:
    Camp chairs
    Folding table
    Canopy or large umbrella

These items will give you a good foundation to begin camping and from there you can build up your gear as you discover what works for you and what you need for added comfort and convenience. Watch your fellow campers to see whey they use and what works for them. There are other posts in this blog that give more detailed information on tools and equipment if you need or want some ideas to help you get started.

Tent camping. If you're going to start tent camping, obviously you'll need a tent. There are hundreds of designs to choose from. The kind of tent you need depends on several things: where you will be using it, how many people it needs to house, what kind of weather you expect to see, will it be a base camp or something you have to carry while hiking? How much can you afford to spend? Tents range from tiny, light weight back-packing tents that barely cover your sleeping bag to keep the dew and rain off to huge, multi-roomed affairs for large families. I had a 10x14 canvas cabin tent my Boy Scouts called "The Hotel". I also have a nifty little pop-up dome that takes about 3 seconds to set up. Just remove the strap and toss it up in the air. Poof! Instant tent! If you're going have to carry your tent while hiking, you will want something that is small and light. If you are setting up a base camp near your vehicle you can use a larger, heavier tent that gives you more room and may provide better protection against the elements. Because tents tend to be somewhat pricey, you may want to look for a good deal on a used tent. Check out your local classified ads or on-line sales such as ebay and craigslist. Sometimes you can find extraordinary deals on new tents on ebay. If you are buying a used tent, see if you can set it up before you take it home so you can make sure it is satisfactory condition and all the parts are there. Minor tears can be usually easily repaired. Stay away from articles with major damage or lack of significant components unless you are fully prepared to make the necessary repairs. Garage sales are often a good place to find used tents. Sometimes you will even find ones that have never even been taken out of the box! For successful tent camping you will need more than just a tent. You will need sleeping accommodations. Sleeping bags are the easiest and usually the most comfortable for camping but ordinary blankets and quilts can also be used. Some folks are reluctant to buy used sleeping bags, but they can be dry cleaned to ensure they are sanitary and safe to use and they usually come out just about like new. Some people like sleeping on folding camp cots instead of laying on the ground. Of course this isn't a viable option for hiking or back-packing or if you have chosen a small tent. Sleeping pads are light weight and easy to transport and add a lot of comfort over sleeping on the hard ground and twigs and rocks. You will also need a way to transport and preserve your food and water. An ice chest will usually do to keep refrigerated food safe for several days. Keep an eye on the ice and replace it before it is all gone to prevent your food from spoiling. Try to store your ice chest out of the sun and way from any direct sources of heat to prolong its usefulness. A simple plastic tub is one of the most convenient ways to organize and transport non-perishable foods, but you can also use a duffle bag or even plastic grocery bags (but they aren't very durable). You will need a way to cook in camp. Some folks opt to do all their cooking over a campfire. If that is your choice, a foldable grill will make many tasks easier. Other alternatives include your ordinary back-yard BBQ or hibachi and camp stoves. Don't try to cook inside your tent! It creates a high fire danger and the fumes and smoke can make you sick and can permeate the fabric, causing foul odors and premature discoloration and deterioration.

RVing. If you want to start out in an RV right away, you're first step is to determine what kind of RV you want. A lot of folks start out with a simple tent trailer and gradually work their way to what best meets their needs as they mature. Some retirees will jump right into a big, luxurious, Class A motorhome. Whatever you choose, do your homework before you buy. Consider how you will use the RV, how much you can afford to spend, where you will use it, and where you will store it. I can't tell you which RV is right for you. What you choose must be right for you and right for your current needs. You may have had some idea of what you wanted last year. Next year you may need something different. But the only one that is best for you is what is right for you right now! The convenience and luxury of a large Class A motorhome may be very appealing, but if you want to camp in primitive forest service campgrounds, you may need a smaller unit to comply with length restrictions and negotiating narrow, winding access roads.  A tent trailer or teardrop trailer can usually be towed behind all but the smallest vehicles and can often be stored in your garage.  An RV usually combines many of the basic equipment you need (shelter, food storage, food prep, comfortable sleeping accommodations, etc).

There is another shelter options to get you started enjoying the camping experience:  rent a cabin in a KOA or other campground.  That way you have a base of operations that will be a little more familiar while you explore the fun of campfires and other camping related activities.

OHVing. Like anything else, your choice of an OHV is a very personal matter. What works for me won't necessarily work for you. You need to consider your physical capabilities along with the kind of terrain and weather where you expect to be using your OHV. Dirt bikes are the favorite of my family. They are highly maneuverable, but they require physical strength and stamina. It is said that Supercross, the ultimate professional dirt bike racing event, is THE most physically demanding sport in the world. ATVs are more stable except when crossing a slope, require less physical capabilities, and can haul more gear and equipment. I often see ATV riders who are otherwise wheel-chair bound. ATVs also deliver a little better performance in soft terrain such as mud, sand, and snow, especially if they are equipped with four wheel drive. The OHV you choose depends on what seems fun to you, where you'll be using it, and how much you can afford to spend. New OHVs of just about any type are fairly expensive. Used OHVs may have mechanical problems associated with ordinary wear and tear or abuse but can often be a good buy. Be careful when buying a used OHV. Check it over carefully and if you have any concerns, have it checked by a competent mechanic. What you spend on a pre-purchase inspection could save you hundreds of dollars in repairs. I have had very good luck purchasing used dirt bikes over the years. I have had to pass on a few along the way that didn't seem to be in satisfactory condition. If the engine starts easily and runs smoothly without expelling clouds of smoke or steam out the exhaust and the clutch, brake, and transmission work smoothly, it is probably OK, but a mechanic can do extended tests to make sure. If the fenders or other plastic parts are badly damaged or the tires worn out, it may have had heavy or abusive use that could lead to premature failure. There are plenty of legitimate bargains out there, so don't throw your money away on a beat up unit just because it is cheap. In the long run it may be less costly to pay more for a better machine. A reputable dealer will often offer a limited warranty and will have performed, at the very least, certain tests required by law to ensure the basic safety of the machine. Often they will have done a lot more because they want their customers to be happy and they don't want the cost of having to do warranty work. Expect to pay more at a dealer than you will pay for the same unit from a private party. Buying from a dealer may also help you to establish a relationship that can yield on-going benefits. Some dealers offer purchasers of vehicles discounts on merchandise, supplies, and services. The more you buy from a dealer, the more likely you will get rewards. Two critical criteria when purchasing an OHV: 1) It should fit you well and you should be comfortable on it and 2) it should be fun to ride! I was offered a great deal on a bigger, newer, and nicer dirt bike when I bought my first one, but I turned it down because I wasn't comfortable on it. Ever worn a pair of shoes that didn't fit? Not comfortable and I'll bet you didn't wear them very long or very often. Your OHV will be the same way. If it doesn't feel good, you won't enjoy it and you won't ride it.

What? Go for it!

Who Should Go Camping, RVing and/or OHVing?

Who Should Go Camping, RVing and/or OHVing? The simplest answer to this question is: everyone, at least anyone who has an interest in doing so. It is particularly advantageous for young families as it provides opportunities for a lot of true quality time for parents and children to share experiences a little or no cost. However, it is not unusual for retirees to begin their RVing experience long after all the kids have left home. Camping offers something for just about everyone. Even physical disabilities do not prevent people from enjoying camping, RVing and OHVing. In fact, OHVs, especially ATVs, provide extended mobility for many wheel chair bound folks. I know a wheel chair bound parapalegic who is an ATV rider and strong OHV activist. A properly equipped RV can be a very comfortable way for older people and those with disabilities to travel and enjoy the great outdoors.

Young families. I have a special interest in seeing young families get started. We got a late start with some of our kids, but most of them grew up camping. My oldest son was about 10 when we first started RVing and dirt biking. The youngest came along about 4 years later. By then our brood numbered 6, including 4 boys and 2 girls. With a 14-year age difference it was difficult to find activities that were appealing to everyone -- except camping and dirt biking. Everyone always enjoyed that! It was good to start them out young. How young? Well, as we added to our family, they started camping with us as babies, often riding in a carrier on Mom's back and started riding their own dirt bikes before they were in kindergarten. Our youngest son rode 13 miles of a 26 mile Poker Run on a 50cc dirt bike when he was still a month shy of his 4th birthday -- and wanted to go further. Our camping and dirt biking outings allowed a bonding for the family I think we wouldn't have gotten any other way. Camping and OHVing also provide numerous "teaching moments", beginning with responsibility for taking care of their own equipment and gear and extending to personal achievements like conquering a difficult trail or climbing a steep hill and beyond, to exercising teamwork with the family and with fellow riders and various impromptu science and astronomy lessons. Not to mention developing their own camping skills. My oldest daughter, who started riding when she was about 5, went on to race Women's Desert Expert in southern California for several years and for most races she chose to be on her own. She set up her own camp, did her own camp cooking, and even did her own "wrenching" to maintain her bike. This same girl ran a Grand Prix on her dirt bike one Saturday morning and competed favorably in a city-wide beauty contest that afternoon. No one watching her perform a complex piano solo at the pageant would have guessed she spent the morning racing her dirt bike.  She also brought home the #1 plate in Women's Motocross in Los Angeles in 2001.

Established families. Enlisting the cooperation and interest of older kids in camping may be more of challenge to start with, but is still doable and very much rewarding. The more exciting and adventurous you can make your outings, the easier it will be to capture the attention of today's teenagers who are highly focused on electronic lives such as cell phones, video games, texting, and virtual online relationships. In many ways it will be a good way to help round out their development to get their noses out of their electronic world and help them develop useful skills in the physical world. Camping is a VERY physical activity. Your own enthusiasm will be a primary force in inspiring your family. If you are lukewarm or intimidated yourself, your kids will respond to and reflect your ambivalence. Find something you can be passionate about: OHVing, hiking, fishing, hunting, canoeing, bird watching, visiting historical or geological sites or experimenting with pioneer and survival activities. Most kids (and adults) are fascinated with fire. Learn how to build a fire without using matches. Not only is it kind of fun, it is a good survival skill to have. My grown son was visibly impressed when I used flint and steel to start our campfire on a recent tent camping excursion.   Explore other survival techniques, such as building a shelter or finding food and water. Just make sure that, whatever you choose to do, you are genuinely interested in doing it. Then seek information and training to build your skills and enable you to share them with your family. Camping, RVing, and OHVing all provide many wonderful "teaching moments".

Older couples. Just because you've filed for social security doesn't mean you have to sit home in the rocker the rest of your life! In fact, sitting in the rocker may shorten your life! Many couples don't get around to starting their camping or RVing lifestyle until retirement. By then, many people prefer RVing to tent camping because of the comforts and conveniences RVs have to offer, but if you are in good health and have a craving for authentic outdoors experiences, go ahead and give tent camping a try. There is certainly no upper age limit, as long as you feel physically able to handle it. My grandfather always said "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out". More recently I've adopted the attitude I saw on a T-shirt: "You don't stop riding because you get old; you get old because you stop riding." Camping and RVing as a couple can sometimes restore some of the spontaneity and intimacy of the life a couple initially shared before having children. On the other hand, taking your kids or grand kids along on your trips can also be rewarding and enjoyable and recall some of your own youthful enthusiasm for life. And don't be afraid to explore options for OHVing if you find that appealing. ATVs and side-by-sides have given us a range of choices that greatly expands the options available to those of us who may not be as physically active as we once were. Off road motorcycles are a little more challenging, so if you have any interest in riding s dirt bike, start as soon as you can so you'll already have the skills. Age doesn't have to stop you from having a good time. I have an associate who is well into his 70s and still organizes and personally leads two week-long dirt bike rides in Mexico every year. You don't stop (riding, camping) because you get old; you get old because you stop (riding/camping).

Who should begin Camping, RVIng, and/or OHVing? YOU!

C.E.R.T. -- Community Emergency Response Team

This may not be directly related to RVs and OHVs but it does pertain to emergency preparedness, and our RVs, if properly equipped and maintained, can serve as DRVs: Disaster Recovery Vehicles and our camping equipment can serve as emergency survival equipment -- if we know what to do and how to prepare. Camping, RVing, and OHVing may place us in situations where we need to be able to deal with emergencies without immediate professional help. Camping provides a wonderful opportunity to practice emergency preparedness and survival skills we may need in case of a natural or man made disaster in our neighborhoods.

Preparing yourself, your family, and your RV for emergencies. To be prepared you need to seek to develop skills and obtain training you may need in the event of an emergency -- a natural disaster in your neighborhood or getting lost or stranded while camping. A good place to start is by joining your local Community Emergency Response Team (C.E.R.T.). Smaller communities or places with transient populations like areas where vacation cabins are located probably won't have a C.E.R.T. program but may have their own emergency preparedness programs and you may be able to become part of the local volunteer fire department. Volunteer fire fighter training is also a good way to develop skills you might need during an emergency.  It has been said "You are the only first responder you can really count on."  That is especially true when you are camping or participating in outdoor recreational activities in remote areas but it could well apply to a disaster situation at home.  In any major incident, standard Emergency Services are going to be overwhelmed for some time.  Figure 3 days to 2 weeks before things will start getting back to anything approaching normal.

As a First Responder your own safety is always your first priority.   While that may not seem very heroic, it is essential.  The last thing you need to do is become another victim.  Looking out for yourself and your fellow C.E.R.T. team members first ensures you do not add to the victim pool but remain available to help victims of the original incident.  Taking care of yourself is NOT a selfish act.  Did you know more would-be rescuers are injured or killed than initial victims of a disaster?  That is mostly due to well-intentioned but poorly executed rescue attempts by untrained people.

Community Emergency Response Teams are comprised of volunteers who are trained by local fire departments to provide first responder emergency services in a disaster situation. In a major disaster, such as an earthquake, tornado, widespread flooding, or winter storm, local emergency services agencies are going to be overwhelmed. It could be a couple of weeks before anything resembling normal services can be restored. What are YOU going to do if response to a 911 call -- if you can even make one! -- is two days or even two weeks out? Community Emergency Response Teams are designed to provide first responder services in their neighborhoods and then where ever they might be assigned by local emergency services professionals. I present a pitch for C.E.R.T. here on my RVs and OHVs blog to encourage campers to avail themselves of this valuable training. As previously mentioned in my post on Camping and Survival Skills, the worst possible thing you can do in an emergency situation is panic. Preparation, including C.E.R.T. training, is a key to avoiding panic. I have taken C.E.R.T. training from fire departments in large metropolitan cities and in small rural communities and, since the program has been standardized under FEMA, the training is consistent and effective and easily adapted to the unique threats individual areas might face.

The training one receives as a member of a Community Emergency Response Team can be invaluable in a disaster. C.E.R.T. members are trained in emergency response procedures, fire suppression, first aid and medical triage, disaster psychology, and light search and rescue. The mission of C.E.R.T. is "to do the most good for the most people". A C.E.R.T. member's first priority is their own safety and the safety of other team members. C.E.R.T. members are not authorized to enter heavily damaged buildings nor engage in any rescue attempt that would put themselves or others, including well-meaning volunteers, in further danger.  One of the hardest things a C.E.R.T. volunteer might have to do is try restrain someone who is intent on putting themselves and others in danger in an attempt rescue a loved one. C.E.R.T. volunteers are not authorized to physically restrain people but are trained to guide and direct people away from hazardous situations.  If someone is hell bent to enter a burning or collapsing structure against your advice, you can't stop them. 

C.E.R.T. training is usually provided by the local fire department. The C.E.R.T. program originated in earthquake-prone southern California but has been adopted by FEMA and adapted for all kinds of disaster situations. Contact your local fire department to learn if they have a C.E.R.T. program and when the next class is scheduled. Classes are usually quite inexpensive, sometimes even free. Make sure any class you take is legitimate and that the credentials you receive are valid. I have heard of well-meaning folks creating their own C.E.R.T. classes. They made up their own manuals, instead of using the FEMA-approved training materials. They charged about twice the normal cost of fire department sponsored classes (many times community sponsored courses are free!) and conducted them on just 2 Saturdays instead of the regular 2 nights a week for 10 weeks an authorized C.E.R.T. course requires. I expect the training they delivered was potentially better than no training at all, but their graduates may be lacking in critical skills and hands on practice and their credentials are not recognized by official C.E.R.T. programs or other emergency response organizations.  C.E.R.T. folks are usually recognized by EMS organizations as valuable resources and not just ordinary citizens to be kept at bay.  One of our C.E.R.T. instructors reported being allowed though a police roadblock during a local emergency because of the C.E.R.T. sticker on his windhshield and the C.E.R.T. ID card in his wallet.

I had the privilege of getting my initial C.E.R.T. training from two premier southern California fire departments, both of which are leaders in C.E.R.T.. C.E.R.T. was invented by the Ventura County Fire Department and refined and formalized by the Los Angeles City Fire Department, who is often credited with having invented it. It has since been adopted by FEMA as a nationwide program. I have since re-certified in a more rural environment where local trainers have included helpful survival tips that are specific to our location and the kinds of recreational activities folks engage in around here. As far as I'm concerned, you can never get too much training! One of our local C.E.R.T. leaders has participated in at last a dozen mock disaster training classes, was one of the responders to the 9/11 disaster at the Pentagon, and yet still claims he learns more from being part of local C.E.R.T. classes than any of the other, more expensive professional (and military) courses he has attended-- and he learns something new from each iteration.

I urge everyone whose health will permit it, to seek C.E.R.T. training. Then, if/when a disaster strikes (natural or man-made, at home, at work, in camp, or on the trail) you'll be better equipped to take care of yourself, your family, your companions, and your neighbors. It will also provide you with fundamental skills for handling any emergency situation.

When a disaster strikes, your first responsibility is to yourself. You must take care of yourself first. This is NOT a selfish concept. If you are injured in the initial disaster or allow yourself to be injured attempting to help others, you will become part of the problem instead of part of the solution. In order to be an effective rescuer, you must first tend to your own needs -- physical, emotional, and spiritual. Your next responsibility is to take care of your immediate family. Only then are you emotionally able to move on to help your neighbors or lend assistance to professional emergency service personnel. If you rush out to help others before taking care of yourself and our family, you are likely to lose focus for the task at hand as you dwell on the status of your family. Once you have all your ducks in order, you can help others. If you don't take time to care for your own needs, you will not be as effective as you need to be in taking care of others. When conducting search and rescue operations, your primary responsibility is the safety of your team (including yourself). You won't be any good to anyone if you become injured or trapped along with the victims you are trying to help. Your priorities are: 1 your personal safety, 2 your family safety, 3, safety of fellow team members, 4 safety of the community. The first thing you will do when you respond to an emergency situation is do a size up to determine the nature and extent of the circumstances and whether it is within the scope of C.E.R.T. to attempt rescues or if you should simply control the perimeter to prevent further injures.  Remember, you are the only first responder you can really count on.

What does C.E.R.T. cover?  Major topics include disaster medical services, light search and rescue, disaster psychology, fire prevention and suppression, and terrorism.  Medical services and fire suppression are probably the topics that will be most applicable to camping and RVing but even disaster psychology will be useful and you may even find applications for light search and rescue techniques, so pretty much the whole course will be well worth your time.

C.E.R.T. is not for the weak of stomach or the timid. but just about anyone can be C.E.R.T. trained.  If you can't handle the thought of dealing with seriously injured victims you will need to work on your attitude. You must prepare yourself for what could be unpleasant tasks. As a C.E.R.T. member you may be called upon to perform emotionally charged tasks as you deal with trapped and/or injured or even dead people. Disasters can create gruesome injuries which you may or may not be able to treat. And no matter how good your treatment is, seriously injured people may still die. You have to prepare yourself to deal with it. In C.E.R.T. training you will be taught how to perform medical triage -- to identify and treat the most severe injuries first. Our tendency as compassionate human beings is to provide assistance to injured people right away, but that isn't always the best approach. While splinting a broken arm or bandaging a non-life threatening wound, another victim, who could have been saved by timely treatment, may die. Therefore, it is essential to understand the full scope of all injuries among all victims before beginning treatment -- except for obvious life threatening injuries. You will also be taught how to do a "sixty second assessment" to evaluate the medical status of victims in 60 seconds or less. You will be given training in first aid and CPR and taught how to identify and provide appropriate immediate treatment for life-threatening injuries and conditions. One of the hardest things you may have to do in a real disaster situation is identify and process people who didn't -- or won't -- survive. You may also find it difficult to inform highly vocal but lightly injured victims that they'll have to wait while you deal with folks with life-threatening injuries. One of my C.E.R.T. instructors insists duct tape is an invaluable resource when dealing with such people! Yes, it may be necessary to restrain some victims, both for their own good and to prevent them from injuring others or interfering in critical tasks. Another handy device for restraining potentially dangerous people are plastic cable ties. Even law enforcement sometimes uses them in lieu of handcuffs. While C.E.R.T. volunteers do not have law enforcement training or authority, sometimes you must simply use common sense to ensure the safety of you, your team, and your victims.   In one of our C.E.R.T. exercises we had a victim who, due to a confused sate of mind caused my a head injury, kept wandering off. One solution is to assign another "walking wounded" to keep an eye on such people. Lacking that you may have to restrain them for their own safety and the safety of other victims and rescuers. By the way, giving people something useful to do is a very good way of helping them as well as helping you as a rescuer. 

C.E.R.T. Organization. C.E.R.T. operates under the authority and direction of the local emergency services team. C.E.R.T. may be called into service by the local emergency services professionals but may also, by design, voluntarily take charge of their own neighborhoods until professional help arrives. C.E.R.T. does not replace professional emergency services personnel, but acts to provide care and mitigate circumstances until emergency service can arrive. In the event of a large-scale disaster professional services may be unavailable for weeks and you may be the only help around. By convention and direction, the first C.E.R.T. member to arrive at a scene becomes the Incident Commander and remains in charge of the scene until professional rescuers arrive or he voluntarily turns over command to someone else -- which he should do before he becomes too exhausted to function effectively. That means the C.E.R.T. trained teenager next door could be your Incident Commander, even if you are a paramedic or a doctor! If that happens, your job is to support him any way you can, not try to usurp his authority! It is likely that an inexperienced Incident Commander will voluntarily turn the job over to more seasoned personnel when they arrive, but if he/she doesn't, do your best to be supportive. The Incident Commander is responsible to identify and organize resources available to assist people in his immediate area. Resources may include people, equipment, tools, medical supplies, transportation, shelter, food and water. The first priority for the Incident Commander is the safety of team members. Next is the safety of other people within his jurisdiction. He will be responsible for designating team members to take charge of specific C.E.R.T. tasks such as logistics (collecting, inventorying, and managing resources), medical treatment, morgue, fire suppression, search and rescue, transportation, and communication. Depending on the circumstances and resources available he may organize search and rescue teams to extricate victims from lightly damaged buildings. In the case of heavily damaged buildings or events involving hazardous materials, C.E.R.T. is charged with establishing a safe perimeter and keeping unauthorized people away from the scene. Since C.E.R.T. personnel have no law enforcement authority and do not carry weapons, keeping unauthorized people out of a hazardous area largely consists of monitoring the perimeter and informing would-be intruders of the danger.  You can usually let them know that professional rescurers have been called and are on their way to assist victims in the restricted area.   In most disaster scenarios, more would-be rescuers are injured or die than there are initial victims. Well-intentioned but untrained citizens rush to the aid of their friends and neighbors and even strangers, without regard for their own safety or an understanding of the additional risk their actions may pose for themselves and for existing victims. YOU do not want to be one of those people! By getting C.E.R.T training, you will know what you can and can't do to assist and be prepared to fulfill the C.E.R.T. mission to do the most good for the most people. Sometimes doing the most good may mean keeping people from entering a heavily damaged building or away from hazardous materials.

In a disaster situation, the general public will be seeking leadership and instruction. Most people will not be adequately prepared to deal with loss of utilities and emergency services. They won't have a clue what to do when they can't just call 911. That is where having C.E.R.T. training comes in. The more people who get trained, the better any neighborhood is able to handle its own needs in a disaster. You may find yourself the ONLY C.E.R.T. trained individual on your block or at your place of employment and people are going to look to you for guidance. Following the Northridge Earthquake in California in 1994 I donned my C.E.R.T. gear (hard hat and safety vest) and began checking on some of my friends and neighbors. Everywhere I went people came out of their homes all around anxiously seeking information and direction. Fortunately we were far enough from the epicenter that there was not a lot of heavy damage in our neighborhood, but I was at least able to provide some assurance of that to worried people and give them some basic instructions regarding their immediate safety and what they could do to prepare for aftershocks and, perhaps, how to deal with extended loss of utilities.

Becoming C.E.R.T. trained will give you confidence and peace of mind that you will know what to do if/when disaster strikes. That makes it well worth the few weeks and modest cost (if any) of training.

C.E.R.T Rules!

Shopping for an RV

Shopping for an RV can be fun! There are lots of different types and models to choose from, each with its own unique features and capabilities. Exploring the various options can provide many hours of interesting and educational entertainment. Shopping for an RV can be similar to shopping for any other vehicle in some ways. You will want to consider brand, condition, features, mileage and price. However, there are other things to consider. You will want to do your homework before you venture out to start looking. The Internet is an excellent resource. You can read presentations by manufacturers and reviews by owners. You can compare prices at different dealers and among for sale by owner used units. You can check for recalls. The main difference between shopping for a new or used family car and an RV will be checking the condition of the coach and its appliances. Of course, if you've decided on purchasing a new unit, condition will not be of major concern since everything will be new and will come with manufacturer's warranties. The reputation of the dealer and the manufacturer will be things to consider.

Used RVs. Used or "previously owned" RVs can be an exceptional value, especially in today's slow economy. RVs don't typically log mileage quickly like cars and trucks and you can find units with very low miles at good prices. I recently saw a 21 year old motorhome with less than 26,000 miles on it and a 30 year old unit with only 42,000 miles.  However, low mileage is only one consideration. You may find serious problems even with a low mileage vehicle if it has not been properly stored and regularly maintained. On ANY used vehicle, check the tires and all mechanical components carefully. If you don't feel qualified to do so, hire a mechanic to go over the vehicle for you. Considering the large investment we make in RVs, the amount you pay a mechanic is a cheap way to avoid large, unexpected expenses.  These days even a simple carburetor overhaul will run about $500, so investing a $100 in having a mechanic check things out could save you plenty.  You will also want to inspect the condition of the exterior paint and roof and the interior and verify that all appliances are operating correctly. Some stale odors are normal but a strong musty or foul odor inside an RV is usually a sign of water damage such as dry rot that can be very expensive to repair.  Stains and soft spots in the floor, walls, or ceiling are another indicator of water damage. You may find RVs with cosmetic water stains on the ceiling or wall, but if the underlying structure is solid and the leak has been repaired, it is mostly an aesthetics problem. Short term leaks can leave stains but usually don't cause serious damage. Long term leaks usually result in dry rot, which can present serious structural problems even if they don't leave stains. Long term leaks don't always show up as stains inside an RV. The damage may all be inside the ceiling or wall. I always thought it interesting that dry rot occurs in wet wood! You'll find air fresheners hanging in a lot of RVs. Mostly that is just because people enjoy the fragrance and it mitigates cooking odors and normal stuffiness from storage. However, if the air fresheners or smell of cleaning products are overpowering, the seller may be attempting to cover up the foul odors from water damage. Examine the roof and look for damage to the surface and cracking of caulk around vents and other accessories attached to the roof. Dried out and cracked caulk will allow water to penetrate the vehicle. Don't be shy about testing appliances. RV appliances can be pricey to repair or replace so you want to know what you're getting into. Non-working appliances can help reduce the price, but you'd better know what it is going to take to get them fixed or replaced. Run the generator and test the microwave. Run the air conditioner(s) and the furnace. Test the hot water heater and the stove. Inspect the refrigerator. If it is moldy or stained or smells bad you may have trouble getting it clean enough to be comfortable using it. Turn it on. The cooling fins should get cold to the touch in a few minutes. Turn on the water pump and ensure that water flows freely at all faucets and the toilet flushes properly. Listen to see if the pump continues to cycle after all faucets have been turned off or for any hissing sound that may indicate a leak. Any un-repaired tears in carpets, curtains, or upholstery should be noted. You may be able to use that to help negotiate a lower price, considering you will bear the expense of making the necessary repairs. Un-repaired tears or other damage are often an indicator of poor maintenance habits in general so I am always suspicious when I find any lack of routine maintenance. On the other hand, accidents can happen to anyone, so unless the damage is excessive, I wouldn't worry too much about light damage that has been successfully repaired. Inspect the dump valves for any signs of damage or leakage. They often hang low enough to be damaged going in and out of driveways or traveling on rough roads. Repairs are usually not terribly expensive and can often be done by owners, but a leaking sewer system could delay your first trip.  Be sure to distinguish between worn or damaged valves and damaged holding tanks.  Valves are easily replaced;  holding tanks repairs can be costly and time consuming.

One kind of hidden value to pre-owned RVs is that they will often have a number of nice additions courtesy of the previous owner(s), things that were not part of the standard equipment but do add to convenience and comfort.   A few additions, such as power levelers might add to the Blue Book value but most accessories won't increase the price so its like you're getting them for free.

Timing. When is the best time to buy an RV? That depends on your priorities and your needs. If you need an RV now, NOW is the best time to buy. If you are flexible, you may want to time your purchase to take advantage of market conditions that favor your needs. You will usually find more units available in spring and early summer giving you a better choice, but prices may be higher because more people want to buy an RV for their summer vacation. On the other hand, if you are looking for the best price, look for end of season reductions in late summer, fall and winter, on both used and new units. Local RV shows frequently offer special "show prices" at RV shows, which are usually well below market or sticker price. Some RV shows include previously owned units as well as new ones.  It is fairly common to encounter high-pressure sales techniques at shows, encouraging you to "take advantage of the show price" before someone else grabs up the unit or the show is over and the price goes back up.   Personally I find such tactics repulsive and feel that reputable dealers don't have to stoop to strong arm tactics.  Their products and reputation should make the sale for them.  Fortunately, I've found salesmen at RV shows to less pushy than those on the lot and a lot less pushy than typical than used car salesman!

Dealers and salesman. RV dealers and salesman can be a valuable resource when you're looking to buy an RV. Good salesmen are often very knowledgeable and can help guide you to the right RV for you. A really good salesman will realize it is more valuable to help you find the right RV than it is to make a quick sale. Don't succumb to high pressure tactics. There are enough units and enough dealers out there so you don't have to give in to over-zealous salesmen. I generally walk off the lot if I'm hit with the "this offer is only good today" or "I have another buyer, but if you act now...." approach. In some cases there may be legitimate special advertised pricing that does expire, but frequently it is nothing more than attempt to force you to make a quick decision and you end up buying something you didn't want. If you find a unit you really like, make sure you know what its book value is, then make a reasonable offer. If you are willing to negotiate and accept some compromises, you can usually reach an acceptable arrangement.

Private party sales. When negotiating with private parties, it is good to know the book value of the vehicle you are considering. You might luck out and find a desperate or ignorant seller who will take your low-ball offer, but most likely the seller has done his own research and knows what his vehicle is worth. You can expect to pay somewhere between the trade-in value and the retail value when buying from a private party. Some specialty vehicles (4WD motorhomes, for example or other rare units like refurbished GMC front-wheel drive models) may command full "blue book" retail or even more from a private party, but that would be very unusual. The official "book" retail price includes the dealer profit, sales commission, and a margin for warranty services, none  of which a private party has to be concerned with. In most cases it will be a waste of effort and even offensive to offer less than the trade-in value, although I have seen deals where low offers have been successful. But those I've seen involve peculiar circumstances. Be wary of unusually low prices. In most cases, if a price seems too good to be true, it is. Very low prices often indicate hidden problems, but sometimes there are good reasons. In one case I know of, the seller and his wife both had health issues and needed a quick sale and they lived hundreds of miles from any dealer where they could wholesale their motorhome. He didn't have the time or money to deliver the unit to a dealer and was willing to let an interested buyer reap the benefits rather than going out of his way to add to the high profits of a not particularly helpful dealer. Some sellers just need to get out from under their payments and will transfer ownership for little or no money down just to get relief from hefty payments. Don't be afraid to ask the seller about his maintenance practices and if he has any maintenance records you can review. Some sellers will willingly share how they used their RVs. That can be useful information too. A unit that has only been used in full-hookup campgrounds and driven only on paved roads may be in better shape than one that has seen a lot of off-highway driving to primitive camp sites. But sometimes things can be deceiving. A unit with very low mileage may have only been used for short trips, like to local campgrounds or tailgating at sporting events. Lots of short trips are much harder on the engine and drive train than highway miles and appliances and other components may have endured unusual wear. High miles may be due to long distance usage. Lots of "highway miles" is usually a good thing. Highway miles are much easier on vehicles than stop-and-go city driving.  An RV that has been used for touring may have higher miles than one primarily used for tailgating at local sports events, but the touring use may yield less wear and tear.

Trade-offs.  As you compare RVs within your price range you're likely to find some older, high end units at about the same price as some newer, "normal" rigs.  Only you can decide if an older or higher mileage unit is more desirable than a newer one with fewer miles and fewer features.  An older unit may be an excellent value if it has been well-taken care of and may give you luxury options that aren't within your budget on newer vehicles.  You may have to decide between higher power and better fuel economy.  Class A motorhomes are usually more luxurious and have more features and larger holding tanks than Class C rigs, but Class C rigs,ironically, can usually sleep more people.

Ebay and other online sites can make shopping easier and save a lot of driving. I have purchased 2 motorhomes through Ebay. One I bought from a dealer and I should have been more careful. In spite of the dealer's frequent claims of having recently serviced the vehicle, I found it 3 quarts low on oil at my first fuel stop. The damage already done led to a early and expensive engine failure. Had it been a private party sale I would have been more thorough in my inspection prior to completing the deal. Most dealers are completely trustworthy. I just happened to get one who either by design or by accident, misrepresented the unit. The one I bought from a private party turned out to be a good buy. It served us for several years and then I passed it along to one of my sons who continued to use if for several more years. In the case of the problem RV, it was a kind of impulse buy when I wasn't actively looking for a "new" RV. I saw it on Ebay at a really good price and really liked the brand and the features. In fact, I kept that motorhome for many years and, after installing a rebuilt engine, it  served us very well. I had been actively looking for an upgrade when I bought the private party unit and had inspected quite a number of coaches for sale before settling on that one. That gave me a pretty good idea of features, condition, and price.  I should also mention that the one I bought from the dealer was an excellent value, even with having to replace the engine.  It was a Holiday Rambler and was top of the line in its day advertised to be the most luxurious motorhome ever.

Test drive. Always ask to test drive the vehicle. It should start easily. Listen for unusual noises and vibration and observe the exhaust. Wind noise may indicate loose or ill-fitting windows, vents, or doors. Blue smoke out the exhaust is usually an indication of excessive oil consumption. White smoke may indicate a coolant leak into the combustion system. Black smoke usually indicates the fuel mixture is too rich. Any of these conditions may require significant engine work, but an incorrect fuel mixture is usually pretty easy to remedy. Listen to the engine. It should run smoothly, with no knocks or pings. Diesel engines may produce more smoke normally than gasoline engines and often have louder engine noises. Squealing belts may not be very expensive to replace, but could indicate a lack of routine maintenance by the previous owner. Try to include various types of terrain on your test drive. Don't just drive it once around the block. You will want to see how it performs on hills and on rough roads. You will want to know how it handles on the freeway when passing or being passed by 18-wheelers. Excessive body roll from passing vehicles may indicate weak or worn suspension, which can be very costly to repair and can make handling the vehicle difficult or even unsafe. The transmission should shift smoothly and without the engine reaching high RPMs. It should downshift easily when climbing hills or when you kick down the accelerator such as when passing or entering a freeway on-ramp -- depending on your speed. Carefully monitor all the gauges. For one thing, you want to know if they're all working properly. For another, they may give you indications of potential problems if they are not within normal readings. This is also a good time to see if you are comfortable driving the vehicle. If you are not, perhaps you should keep looking until you find something you are comfortable driving. Are all the controls within easy reach? Do the mirrors provide adequate coverage for safety? Are you OK with the size? Be especially careful negotiating corners until you are completely comfortable with the way the unit handles. Hitting a curb or clipping a street sign or tree could create damage you would be responsible for and you sure don't want to be spending your RV budget to repair damage to someone else's RV or messing up your new rig! While driving on rough roads, listen for excessive rattles or creaking. You can expect some noise, but it shouldn't sound like its falling apart around you! Check all the lights, including clearance markers.  In some states you will have to repair any broken or burned out lights before it will pass a required safety inspection to get it registered.  Non-functioning lights, especially if widespread, may indicate serious wiring problems. If it has awnings, open them and inspect the condition of the fabric and the hardware.  The fabric should pull taught when the awning is open and shouldn't have any tears or bad stains.  All the hardware should work smoothly, with no unusual noises or binding.   Look inside all cabinets and exterior compartments. Watch for hidden water damage or damage from insects or rodents. Be very wary if you find water in exterior compartments. It may indicate a plumbing problem or defective seals on the doors.

Orphaned RVs can deliver exceptional value.  What is an orphaned RV?  It is one whose manufacturer has gone out of business.  Since the drive train and appliances are usually brand names that are still in business the only downside to owning an orphan RV might be getting body parts if they are damaged.  However, you may still be able to get parts in an RV junk yard and since many RVs are made of fiberglass or fairly standard aluminum panels a good body shop may be able to make good repairs even without factory replacement parts.  Being orphaned usually causes the resale price to drop, making them a good buy if the are in reasonable condition.  The price reduction works to your advantage when you're buying but could bite you if you happen to own an RV at the time its manufacturer goes belly up.  I have owned one or two orphaned RVs and they always delivered extremely good value.  The purchase prices were reasonable and I had no problem maintaining the mechanical components and appliances.  Fortunately I didn't have any need of body work, but, as I said before, I am confident a competent body shop could handle just about anything needed.

Happy buying!