Winter Rving and Camping

Having lived in southern California until a few years ago, I haven't done a lot of winter RVing but I have been out in the snow more than once. Somehow, at least for most of us "snow camping" just doesn't have the same appeal as enjoying the sunshine and green grass or beaches, but some people do find it attractive. Your RV can be your mobile ski chalet or hunting lodge -- if it is properly equipped and you are prepared for winter driving.

You can go RV or tent camping in the winter. You just have to make the right preparations. RV camping will usually be more warmer and comfortable, but with the right clothing and gear tent camping can be fun, safe, and enjoyable too.

Most RVs made in the US do not come from the factory equipped for winter use. A few do have enclosed and heated underbellies.  Those manufactured in Canada are more likely to come from the factory prepared for four season use.  If yours is not 'winter hardened' and you want to do some winter camping, you will need to add heat tape to the holding tanks and exposed plumbing to prevent them from freezing. Heat tape usually requires 120 volt electricity so you'll need to run you generator while on the road as well as in camp unless you are connected to shore power. However, some heat pads and tape will also work on 12 volt DC -- if you have sufficient battery capacity.  Heating elements draw a lot of current.  Some factory-winterized units heat the holding tanks and plumbing using ducts from the furnace but that kind of after the sale modifcations are usually cost prohibitive if they are even possible.  Sometimes just adding a 100 watt incandescent light bulb to an exterior compartment will be enough to provide freeze protection -- if  you have 120 volt power to run it as needed.

Many newer RVs feature double-pane windows which help reduce heat loss to maintain a comfortable temperature inside your RV in summer and winter. For older models, you can apply heat-shrink plastic storm windows (available at hardware stores and home centers). Other easier, more flexible options include reflective foam interior insulating panels, similar to windshield sun blockers. These can be used in the summer to keep the heat out and in the winter to help keep it in. Keep the curtains, drapes, or blinds closed as much as possible to further reduce heat loss.  If you use your RV a lot in the winter or find it is difficult to keep it warm, you might try replacing the curtains or drapes with heavier, insulated drapes.

Drafts. You can loose a surprising amount of heat through small openings around where plumbing and electrical wiring passes through RV walls. Seal these openings with spray foam or silicone caulk. Ordinary foam weatherstripping can often be used to reduce drafts around pedals and control cables that pass through the firewall of your vehicle. Spray foam can also be used to insulate the inside of exterior cabinet doors and provide some protection for exposed plumbing, reducing the amount of energy required for heat tape to do its job. You may find drafts around windows and doors or even where interior walls meet exterior walls or where ceilings or floors meet exterior walls. These may be more likely on older units that have been subjected to years of road vibration and twisting of the coach in normal (or abnormal!) use. Careful and judicious use of spray foam can seal these cracks if adjustment of the doors and windows doesn't solve the problem.

Roof vents. Roof vents provide welcome ventilation in warm weather, but can be a conduit for heat loss in cold weather. Heat rises, so the warmest air in your RV is going to be up near the ceiling, right where it can escape or be cooled by unprotected roof vents. The plastic or acrylic domes or even metal lids provide little insulation. Some permanent skylights have double domes that do provide better protection, but ordinary pop-open roof vents usually do not. RV stores sell pillow-like pads that can be pushed into the vent opening or you can make your own from styrofoam sheets or foam rubber. Or just stuff a throw pillow into the opening. You can also purchase vinyl covers that fasten over the vent using snaps or velcro. The pillow types provide more insulation, but the snap-on covers block a lot of heat loss through air flow and take up less storage room. Another option is to cut foam insulation like Reflectix to fit the roof vent openings as well as covering your windows.   If you bought a roll to make your window covers you may very well have some left over to cut to fit your roof vents.  Be sure to cut it slightly larger than the opening so it will fit tight and stay put.

RV furnaces aren't always able to keep up with freezing winter tempeatures.   If you find that your furnace runs constantly and your RV is  still cold, you may need a bigger furnace -- or a second furnace or other source of heat to keep  your RV comfortable.  Sometimes a good tune up may solve the problem, but unless your find heat runs that are blocked or the flame isn't adjusted properly, it probably just isn't big enough.  Sometimes you can buy a more powerful furnace that will fit in the same place as the old one, but quite often a larger furnace will require a bigger space and might need larger ducting.  Of course you want to make sure you have solved any heat loss problems (drafts, unprotected windows, etc) before you invest in a new furnace.

Auxiliary heaters. Hopefully, if you've weather-proofed your RV, your furnace will provide adequate heat to keep you warm and toasty through cold winter nights. If it does not, you should first make sure it is operating optimally. Blocked heat vents, kinked, looped, or excessively long heat runs, weak fan motors, blocked combustion vents, and improper gas pressure can all have a detrimental effect on furnace performance. If everything is working correctly and you still can't stay warm your furnace may just be too small for your rig and conditions and you may want upgrade the furnace or add an auxiliary heater. A few RVs have more than one furnace.  If yours has only one you may be able to add a second one if there is some convenient cabinet space you can sacrifice.  If you choose this route, have it installed by a qualified professional or make sure it is properly vented and the gas line is leak free.  If you will be mostly staying in campgrounds with shore power or able to run your generator all night (not recommended since exhaust fumes could enter your RV and make you ill or even kill you), you may be able to use an electric heater. This is usually the easiest and most convenient solution if you have 120 volt power available. Many people find this suitable since they only need extra heat while sitting around in the evening and not while snugly tucked in for the night.  Warm bedding is one of  the easiest, least expensive, and most comfortable ways of staying warm at night.  One of the most innovative, appealing and attractive options I've seen for electric heat is a compact electric fireplace. Not only does it provide heat like any other electric heater, it adds a nice, cabin-like ambiance to your RV. However, the ones I've see only have 750W/1500W heat so if you need a lot more heat, get a 3000W or 3500W portable heater. Another popular solution comes in the form of catalytic heaters. These can be permanently mounted and plumbed into your RVs propane system or are available as portable units (often used as tent heaters). In either case, you will need to keep a window or two slightly open to ensure you have an adequate supply of fresh air.  Although some of  these heaters, even the white-gas and propane catalytic heaters, do not give off smoke or toxic fumes they do consume oxygen, so you must make sure you have fresh air coming in at all times so you won't suffocate! I found the white-gas powered Coleman tent heater kept our 16' Smuggler warm all night for the kids to sleep in, even with two windows left open about an inch or so for ventilation. Permanently mounted heaters are safer than portable heaters since they aren't in danger of being tipped over onto a flammable surface. However, take care to keep the area around ALL catalytic heaters clear. They get VERY hot and anything coming into contact with them (clothing, curtains, flesh) will be badly damaged in an instant. If you must run your generator at night, consider an add-on exhaust vent such as a Genturi Exhaust. These attach to the generator exhaust and extend above the roof of your RV to carry exhaust gases up where they are more likely to be dissipated without contaminating the air you are breathing. They cannot be left attached while the vehicle is in motion so you'll need someplace to store the pipes during travel. Be sure to let them cool before disassembling them and storing them.  Unless the extra pipes are sealed at each joint there is still a chance of exhaust fumes leaking where they could pose a problem so it is always best not to run you generator while you're sleeping.

Winter Camp issues. Winter camping brings some new situations you will have to learn to deal with. You will want to have an aggressive exterior welcome mat to help remove snow and keep it from being tracked inside your RV. You may want to bring along a snow shovel to remove snow from pathways from your RV to places you need to go frequently or to clean off the concrete pad around the campground picnic table or from around the fire pit.  BTW, keeping your snow shovel waxed will keep snow from sticking to it,  When it does stick it makes every shovel full heavier and less productive,  Even in winter weather you may find it pleasant to sit or stand around a campfire. If you are staying in a campground with hookups, you will need to protect your fresh water line and sewer dump lines from freezing. Heat tape is the most effective way of doing this. You can also wrap your fresh water hose with foam pipe insulation to keep the heat in and minimize how much you have to use the heat tape but insulation alone will not prevent freezing. Ideally you will have a thermostat on heat tape and each device so that it will automatically maintain a temperature above freezing. Remember, you don't need holding tanks, plumbing, or water lines to be kept "warm", just above freezing, which is 32°F. A typical target temperature to prevent freezing is 40°F. That way, if there is a sudden drop in ambient temperature, the heat tape or heater will have time to react before the contents freeze. Water expands when it freezes and generates enough force to shatter pipes and split water tanks and water heaters wide open.  Keep an eye on bottled or canned liquids like water or soda pop too.  They can also freeze if left out or if the ice chest they are in is left out in sub-freezing weather.  

Winter activities. If your OHVs include snowmobiles, your activities will likely center around their use. ATVs, especially those with 4WD, are also popular for winter rides. Dirt bikes can be used in the snow, but are not as stable and may need special studded winter tires to get traction. I've seen dirt bikes with a track installed in place of the rear wheel giving them almost the kind of traction snowmobiles  have in snow, but these modifications are expensive.  Beyond the vehicular activities, all the old standard winter activities are readily available: skiing, snowboarding, sledding, ice skating, snowball fights, ice fishing, and building snowmen and snow forts. We've even made ice cream from fresh snow (make sure it isn't contaminated -- as they say, "don't eat yellow snow"), but personally, I prefer a nice cup of hot chocolate in cold weather!  I find frozen treats much more appealing when its hot outside.  BTW, you may have seen the beer commercial where an avid beer fan is seen eating yellow snow as he follows someone carrying a leaking keg.  Trust me.  Most times you find yellow snow it won't be beer, unless its already been cycled through someones kidneys!

When you go out for an activity, leave your RV furnace running  -- unless you are on an extended outing and are concerned about conserving fuel. Then you might want to just turn it down a bit.   DO NOT turn it off completely since you may expose the interior and contents to freezing temperatures that will damage plumbing and freeze provisions. Shoot for around 40° to conserve propane and yet protect interior components from freezing.  If you're not worried about using propane or you won't be gone long, set it to a comfortable temperature.   It is really nice to come back to camp and have a warm place waiting for you. You will find this particularly convenient if your are traveling with children or elderly companions whose tolerance for being cold may be limited. And, should someone get chilled to the point of hypothermia, it could be life-saving. Set the thermostat at 40° if you want to protect your RV against freezing yet conserve propane when you're not "at home". To come back to a comfortably warm unit, a setting of 65 or 70 degrees should be about right. While 65 is bit cool when you're sitting around doing nothing, it is usually a lot warmer than it is outside and will feel really good when you come in from the cold. A setting of 65° will use less propane than 70° but if you have enough propane and really like to be warm, crank it back up to 70° when you come in.  At 65° you may still need a sweater and some warm socks or fuzzy slippers.

Some newer luxury RVs have Hydronic heating systems.    These systems are usually more compatible with cold weather camping.  They use a central boiler that circulates a heated antifreeze solution to distribute heat throughout the coach.  In many cases they also heat holding tanks in enclosed cabinets so they're protected against freezing as long as you don't run out of fuel.  The original Hydronic systems were only available on diesel pushers because they used diesel fuel but a propane version has recently been introduced that will allow their use in gasoline powered motorhomes and even trailers.   Because of the extensive plumbing required it is not practical to retrofit hydronic systems into existing units but it might be a feature to look for if you find yourself in the market for a winterized RV.  The even heat distribution and warm floors are definitely appealing features on cold outings.

Snow accumulation. Watching it snow can be very pleasant, if you are warm and cozy inside your tent or RV. However, the accumulation of snow on flat surfaces -- awnings, RV roofs, and tents should be monitored and the snow removed before it becomes heavy enough to cause structural damage. You can usually just drop an awning all the way down and sweep or brush the snow off of it. If you are tent camping, sweep the snow off the tent frequently to avoid weight build up and to avoid the snow from freezing to the tent. Warmer temperatures inside the tent will melt the snow against the fabric, then the cold snow above it and cold temperatures outside will re-freeze it, making the whole mess very hard to remove.  If  your tent is sturdy enough you might let some snow accumulate for insulation, like an igloo.  12" of snow has about the same insulation "R" factor as the fiberglass bats in the walls of your fixed residence.  But be aware that snow can be heavy.  Light, fluffy snow can still add up to a 14 lbs/sq ft, which can be quite a load on a tent or RV roof.  Wet snow is even heavier.  Take care if you need to remove the snow from the roof of your RV. RV roofs can be very slippery and its a long way down if you fall off. Also, you may not be able to see obstacles on the roof that you may trip over or inadvertently damage slogging through deep snow. If at all possible, use a ladder alongside your RV and sweep or brush the snow off the roof. Although it may seem like a good idea to park under trees for protection from winter weather, it really isn't. Snow can accumulate in the branches of the trees and then fall with surprising force onto the roof of your RV. It can easily crush vent and A/C covers and other accessories and may even cause structural damage to the roof itself. If you MUST park under trees, monitor the snow accumulation in the trees above your RV and be prepared to move if the buildup appears to be reaching dangerous levels. What are dangerous levels? Well, if large clumps are starting to fall from the branches or deep accumulations are forming on the branches (approaching 6" or more), you are looking at a catastrophe in the making.

Winter driving. Hopefully, if you live in an area where you will be doing winter RVing, you already have some experience with winter driving. If not, it probably is not a good idea to make a "snow trip" in the first place! If you have never had any experience with winter driving, you DON'T want you first crack at it to take place behind the wheel of a motorhome or a tow vehicle! Winter driving is difficult enough without adding the extra burden of an over-sized rig. If you are new to winter driving, try to take a few trips in your car or truck by itself before you venture out with a motorhome or travel trailer. You will want to be confident in your winter driving capabilities before adding the extra concerns of a heavy RV.  If possible, practice driving in an empty, snow-covered field or parking lot to get a feel for how your vehicle handles in the snow.

Winter driving brings many hazards. Slick roads are probably the first to come to mind. They may be covered with snow or with "black ice". Another serious consideration is snow accumulation, which will make progress and maneuvering difficult. Appropriate tire chains and 4WD provide some defense against these problems, although tire chains are not very effective against black ice and few RVs are equipped with 4WD. In many higher elevations you will encounter sections where snow chains or 4WD are required. Be sure you have chains that properly fit your RV and practice putting them on and taking them off before you leave home. You won't want to be rolling around in the snow or slush at the side of the road while you learn how to hook them up. Bring along a tarp or use a sleeping pad to lay on to hook up your chains and keep you out of the wet and cold. Chains will give you added traction in snow but you will not be able to drive as fast as you would on clear, dry pavement. However, driving too slow will make you an obstacle for other vehicles and can create its own safety hazards, so you must use common sense and try to maintain a safe speed. Turning and stopping an RV in snow or icy conditions requires a LOT more room than normal, so give yourself time and space. Look ahead and plan and execute your moves carefully. Slow down for all turns. Turning your vehicle depends on there being sufficient friction between your front tires and the road to overcome vehicle momentum and change its direction of travel. Snow and ice reduce friction to where it doesn't matter what direction the wheels are pointing, the vehicle will keep going straight! It is difficult, if not impossible, to discern traffic lanes and edges of the highway on snow-covered roads. In places that get a lot of winter snow there should be tall reflective poles along the edge of the road that can give you some idea of where the road goes, but unless you are on a divided highway there will be no indication of even where your direction of travel is, let alone differentiation between lanes.

Another winter driving hazard is visibility. Snow, whether falling from the sky or being blown from ground sources, can literally reduce visibility to zero. Even without snow there are other winter conditions that make it very difficult to see where you're going, such as fog, especially freezing or frozen fog. You can encounter what is called a "white out", where the only thing you can see is snow and/or fog, leaving you NO landmarks or references to steer by. You can't distinguish any horizon.  In fact, sometimes you can't even tell which way is up! If you encounter white-out conditions, pull off the road and STOP! Put on your emergency flashers, and wait for the white-out to clear. Try to get to clear off the road if you can so no one runs into you but take care not to go so far as to get stuck!

The best defense against winter driving is to avoid it! Check the weather before you leave home and monitor weather stations frequently while you are out. If severe weather is headed your way, take appropriate actions to either get out of the area or find a safe place to wait out the storm. Far better to spend a few hours in a rest area or campground or even a Walmart parking lot than have to pull over along the highway and risk getting rear-ended by a big rig trying to make up time or even a snow-plow trying to clear the road for you! If a snowplow happens to go past you while you're parked, you may find yourself behind a berm of snow thrown up by the plow, making it difficult to get back on the road. You may have to get out and dig yourself out.  Always carry at least a folding shovel when driving in winter.

Walmart parking lots. Speaking of Walmart parking lots, it is well-known among RVers that most Walmarts are RV-friendly. As RVers we need to show our appreciation for their generosity by demonstrating good behavior when stopping in a Walmart lot and by patronizing their stores. Try to park way out away from the entry doors and take up as few parking spaces as you can. NEVER block driveways or fire lanes. ALWAYS make sure your holding tank valves are tightly closed and the caps securely in place. Police the area around your rig before you leave. Even if the trash was there before you arrived, it is polite and appropriate to leave the area in better condition than it was when you found it.  And if its a mess when  you leave, you may get blamed even it was already a mess when you got there.  The use of Walmart parking lots is a not a right, it is a privilege, one we may lose if we aren't good citizens. I've seen thoughtless folks take up twice as many parking places as they really need, block access ways, driveways, and even fire lanes. Obviously these people are NOT thinking or are completely self-centered. This kind of abuse could very easily lead to Walmart posting "NO RVs" signs if they continue. Note:  not all Walmarts allow overnight RV parking.  Some are restrained by local ordinances, some by manager decision.  Either way it is incumbent upon RVers to obey the rules.   Some other businesses also cater to RVers.  One I know of is Cracker Barrel.

If you plan to do any winter camping in a tent, you will want to obtain a good four season tent. Summer tents won't keep you warm in snow and freezing temperatures or stand up to snow loads. The fly should come as far down as possible. Some people even sew an extra skirt on the rain fly so it nearly reaches the ground all around. Short flys will allow snow to blow up onto the walls and sometimes even through the vents into the tent. If  you want to extend the fly, purchase some nylon fabric that closely matches or complements the existing rain fly and sew it securely to the bottom of the original rain fly.  Be sure to hem the new bottom edge and add grommets as needed to properly anchor the whole configuration.  Adequate ventilation is required to avoid condensation which will quickly destroy insulation values. An attached vestibule is a good way to keep snow from coming in the door. Tent heaters are desirable in cold weather but be sure to read and follow the instructions religiously. In addition to the potential to set the tent on fire, they may give off toxic fumes and will always consume oxygen unless they obtain their combustion air from the outside. Traditional catalytic tent heaters require ventilation to avoid suffocation. You may be inclined to keep all the windows and vents closed when its cold outside, but doing so could be fatal! I read of an experienced camper who died using a tent heater without sufficient ventilation.  The good old Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat and will often be sufficient to warm a small tent if it isn't TOO cold outside.  Just be sure to exercise extreme caution to avoid fire or suffocation.

Sleeping warm in a tent in winter takes some preparation. Start with a good sleeping bag that is rated for the temperatures you are expecting. When I did some snow camping, I used a heavy tarp as a ground cloth beneath my tent, a second tarp covering the floor inside the tent, then opened up an old sleeping bag and laid it out inside before rolling out our regular sleeping bags. That gave us extra padding and extra insulation between us and the snow. After rolling out our regular winter sleeping bags, I laid another opened up bag over both bags. The outside temperature was well below freezing that night, but we stayed warm and cozy.  Couples who are used to sleeping together can benefit from having sleeping bags they can zip together to share their warmth with each other.

Protecting your provisions during winter outings. During warm months you need an ice chest to maintain foods at 40° or less to avoid spoilage. During winter months you might use an ice chest to help keep your provisions from freezing! You will need to balance the need to protect your food from animals (by storing it in your vehicle) against freezing (by storing it in your tent). Since bears hibernate during winter months, you probably won't have to deal with them, but many other animals (wolves, coyotes, and raccoons for example) are likely to become bolder as limited winter food supplies boosts their hunger.

Dress for winter weather.   You can handle colder, nastier weather than you might think IF you are properly dressed for it.  Consider skiers and snowmobilers who regularly brave sub-zero temperatures and blizzards in relative comfort.  The secret is dressing in layers.  Not only do multiple layers give added insulation to preserve body heat, they allow you to adjust as circumstances (temperatures, level of activity) change.  The air between layers can also be a factor in added insulation.  Start with a warm, comfortable base layer.  You want this layer to be fairly form fitting.  It should be made a material that will both insulate and wick away perspiration.  Cotton has long been the fundamental fabric but there are some excellent synthetics with exceptional performance these days.  Though not what you're probably used to wearing as underwear, you will want these garments to be long legged and long sleeved.  Next comes a layer of comfortable clothing (pants, shirts).  Generally the pants should be fairly thick material and ideally somewhat waterproof unless you plan to wear a waterproof layer over them.  Shirts should be fairly loose and comfortable.  Flannel and fleece are popular options for warm shirts.  In really cold weather you might need to add a sweater or sweatshirt.  For OHV riding, you can buy "Windchill" jerseys that are warmer than regular jerseys.  Next you will need a warm coat.  One with a hood is good to keep your head and neck warm.  In really cold weather you will want an additional pair of pants.  Ideally they should be wind and water proof.  Depending on just how cold it is you might opt for insulated pants for extra warmth.  Or  you could substitute a snowmobile suit for jacket and pants.  A warm hat is essential.  My grandmother taught us "if your feet are cold, put on  your hat".  There is actually something  scientific behind this old folk saying.  You can lose a lot of heat through your head. Wearing a warm hat will help keep your blood warm which in turn helps keep your extremities warm.  You may also want to wear a baclacava or ski mask to keep your face warm.  I was surprised how much warmer my face was even with a thin nylon face mask that I can wear under my helmet when dirt biking.  My favorite cold weather hat is a Russian Ushanka but even a good stocking cap will help keep your ears and head warm and can be comfortably worn under the hood of most coats and jackets.  And, speaking of feet, they, too, need proper sock systems to ensure comfort. Start with a pair of well fitting light socks that will protect your feet against chafing and blisters and wick away perspiration.  Then add some warm socks.  Wool socks are the traditional standard and retrain their insulating properties even when wet.  You can purchase battery powered heated socks if your really need extra help keeping your feet warm or use chemical toe warmers.  Finally, some waterproof insulated boots such as snow boots to keep your feet warm and dry.  You will need warm gloves or mittens for your hands.  Mittens will keep your hands warmer but you sacrifice some dexterity.  You can use chemical hand warmers in either mittens or gloves for added comfort.  Using soft glove liners can add extra protection and adapt regular OHV gloves for winter use.  Well insulated, waterproof gloves should keep  your hands warm.  Why waterproof gloves and other clothing?  In most cold climates you will encounter snow and as snow melts you need your outer layer to be waterproof to ensure your other layers stay dry.  One final piece of useful gear is a baclacava or face mask to keep your face warm.  Knitted ski masks or military bacalcavas will be warmest, but even a thin nylon face mask, which can be worn under an OHV helmet, will help a lot.  Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes.  The glare off snow can be brutal!

Winter campfires. Cozying up to a nice, warm, crackling fire on a cold day is certainly appealing. There are some special considerations when building campfires in winter. First, try to scrape away the snow down to the ground. A fire built on snow will sink into the snow and be drowned by snow melt. If you can't scrape down to the ground, build a platform of green logs or large, flat stones on which to build your fire to keep it away from the snow.  A piece of sheet metal might keep your fire out of the snow, but the heat transferred through it will melt the snow underneath and you could still have a problem with flooding from snow melt around and into your fire.  You also need to be aware of what is overhead. Building a fire under snow-laden trees is a catastrophe waiting to happen. Heat from the fire may loosen snow on the branches and it will come crashing down and put out your fire. It could also cause injuries to anyone it falls on and, at the very least, would be a quite unpleasant, unwanted, and unproductive surprise to be pummeled with snow when you're trying to warm up around the fire.

Winter camping is cool!

Camping With Pets

Many of us have furry, four-footed friends that are a big part of our lives. With proper training and preparation, they can be part of our camping and RVing lifestyle. You need to always be aware of two important aspects of camping with pets: 1) your pets' safety and comfort and 2) avoiding subjecting fellow campers to unwanted exposure to your pets. Just like you and your human family, your pets will need some time to adjust to camping or RVing and you need to provide for their safety and comfort. NEVER leave your pets unattended in your camp or RV. Bring along their favorite food and water dishes and a few favorite toys. NEVER let you pets roam free. They may get in trouble with other campers or other campers' pets, they may leave unwanted deposits, and they may become attractive meals or other targets for local predators. Most of our pets won't have the experience to adequately defend themselves against wild animals. I had a friend who brought their cat with them and no one ever really knew the cat was around. She stayed in their trailer all the time and never made a sound. I didn't even know he liked cats. The license plate frame on his big pickup truck said "Cats Flattened While You Wait". Some other members of our group had dogs. Most were well-behaved, quiet, and friendly and quickly became beloved camp mascots. On the other hand, I tried taking our dogs on an outing or two and quickly learned they weren't the camping types! I found them noisy and difficult to control so we opted to leave them home after that. They were generally well-behaved at home, but the novelty of camping threw them for a loop. Perhaps I could have trained them to be better campers if I had had more patience, but it was easier just to leave them at home.  We brought our cat along when we spent the summer living in our RV while we worked at a resort.  She was pretty scared to begin with, but adapted to life in camp surprisingly quickly and since she was basically an indoor cat she was safe and never a problem to anyone around us.  One unexpected thing we learned from that experience was how many hiding places there were in our RV!

Medical needs. Just like us, our pets sometimes have special medical needs that will need attention during an outing. Be sure to bring along any medications that are currently in use. If you're traveling any significant distance from home, bring along vaccination records. Specific pet first aid kits are available for dogs and cats to give you convenient supplies to deal with common injuries and ailments.  When traveling and/or staying away from home, research available veterinary services along your route and near your destination.  One of my daughters was bitten by a dog during one of our outings.  Since the owners couldn't provide vaccination records, local law enforcement quarantined the dog for two weeks at the owner's expense and I had to foot the bill  for my daughter's examination and treatment.

Noisy pets. Noisy pets will quickly bring the wrath of fellow campers. Either find a way to keep them quiet or leave them home! That may seem harsh, but it is reality. You may find yourself in a dangerous physical confrontation with angry campers or they may seek to harm your pets in order to shut them up. Far better to leave them with a friend or in a kennel than risk the physical harm that could come to them -- or you! And though kennels can be expensive, they're not nearly as expensive as law suits if your pet injures someone or the cost of repairs if they tear up things in your RV or the vet costs if your pet is injured or gets ill.  As mentioned above, one of my daughters was bitten in the face by an unrestrained dog.  In addition to medical expenses, the owner had to deal with a costly two week quarantine of their beloved pet because they couldn't prove rabies shots.  Fortunately my daughter was not seriously injured and healed quickly.

Pet sanitation. Developed campgrounds and many road side rest areas will have specially marked pet areas where you can take your pets to "do their business". If your pet soils the grass in or around your camp or anyone else's, clean it up immediately. If you are boondocking where there is no designated pet area, take your pets far from any other campers and avoid letting them soil trails, roads, or public areas where people or vehicles may pass.   If there is any doubt about using an appropriate pet area, carry a plastic bag with you and clean up after them.  No, it isn't fun, but IS your responsibility.

Pet Provisions. Of course you will need to bring along food for your pets sufficient to last the length of your trip. You should also pack a pet first aid kit. Check with your veterinarian to determine what to bring along. If your pets require any special medication, make sure you bring it along. Where will your pet sleep? If they normally sleep with you at home, you should probably try to let them sleep with you when camping. If they have a bed of their own, bring it along if it is practical to do so. The last thing you or your fellow campers need is a restless pet running around or whining all night long.

Some people rely on their pets for additional security in camp.   Clearly a 100 lb snarling Rottweiler will deter all but the most determined burglars, but even a yapping Pekinese may be enough to attract enough attention to send them looking for safer pickings.

Regulations. Be sure to check local laws and regulations. Call ahead to developed campgrounds to find out if they are pet friendly. Check with the land managers (rangers) for BLM and Forest Service areas to see if pets are allowed and if there are any special threats or considerations you need to plan for. Pets are discouraged in many areas where predators are prevalent. Better to leave Fluffy at home than have her become a snack for a coyote, mountain lion, bear, or a raccoon!

Wild animals may present a threat to your pets, especially if  you are boondocking.   You pets probably haven't had experience with wild animals and their natural curiosity may lead them to unpleasant or even dangerous encounters with local wildlife.  I grew up in a rural environment and even with dogs who were raised there we usually had to pull porcupine quills from their noses at least once or twice each summer and more than once they came home with the unmistakable proof of an encounter with a skunk!  Raccoons are kind of cute but they can be very ferocious and often carry rabies so you don't want to mess around -- or let your pets -- mess around with them.

 
Don't show up at a resort or campground with a pet if you haven't confirmed a pet-friendly reservation.   You may be turned away or have to pay higher than expected fees.  Indoor accommodations sometimes need to be kept free to meet the needs of customers with allergies.  Properly cleaning a non-pet room so it is usable again after a pet intrusion is time consuming and expensive process, which YOU will be held legitimately liable for if you violate pet rules.

Have a purr-fectly good trip!

Camping With Kids

Throughout our lives, we've found camping, RVing and OHVing with our kids to be a fantastic family activity. Our oldest son was 14 when his youngest brother was born. There were two girls and two more boys in between. Just try to find activities that appeal equally to girls and boys from 4 to 18! Most of our kids played soccer, and that was a productive and rewarding time for them individually -- and our RV often served as both transportation and support vehicle to their practices and games. But camping and dirt biking as a family gave us true quality time together and presented hundreds if not thousands of learning and teaching moments. We maintained our camping and dirt biking during most of the time my wife was pregnant. Towards the end of each pregnancy she avoided the more strenuous rides, but still came on every outing. Our infants were never left out so they were exposed to camping, RVing, and OHV outings right from the start. It is a little more work caring for infants in an RV than at home, but it was well worth the effort. Our youngest son started riding before he was 4 and all the little ones were accomplished and responsible riders by the time they were in kindergarten.  Our oldest daughter went on to race Women's Desert Expert, earning sponsorships from dealers and manufacturers and bringing home a Number 1 plate for Women's Motocross in Los Angeles in 2001.

Camping with kids provides many stimulating and pleasurable adventures.   Obviously it is a fun experience for them, but it  is also quite rewarding for the adults involved.  Sharing your camping and other recreational activities with them and seeing them learn and grow is incredible!  Often we will learn (or relearn) things as we teach them.  Their enthusiasm can be infectious and help us regain some of the youthful feelings we might have thought we had out grown. 

Don't have any kids or grandkids of your own? Borrow some! How about nieces and nephews or neighbors? You will find renewed excitement in exploring the great outdoors through the eyes of youngsters. We had an older bachelor in our riding group who liked to lead the little kids on skill builder rides around camp. He was often quite gruff, even abrasive, with adults, but with the kids he was really kind and patient. It was a real thrill to see "Uncle Phil" on his massive dirt bike leading a half dozen or so youngsters on little 50 cc machines around the desert.  BTW, he hated to be called "Uncle Phil".

We began camping and dirt biking long before the advent of DVD players and in-car entertainment systems. Eventually we did have a motorhome with a TV and VCR that allowed the kids to watch movies during long drives, but until then we had to make do the "old fashioned" way, playing games like "I Spy" and the "Alphabet Game" and singing songs (a favorite was "Beep Beep" about a Rambler and a Cadillac -- always a favorite since my Dad was a Rambler mechanic). Once in camp, we kept a variety of entertaining games in the motorhome for inclement weather. Yahtzee and Uno come to mind, along with various wooden and wire puzzles and ordinary picture puzzles. And don't forget books! Even our least academically motivated son learned to enjoy reading when he couldn't be riding.

For those of you who may not have been introduced to "travel games" in your own youth, "I Spy" works like this: one person chooses an object within view and chants "I spy. I spy. I spy something _________." Fill in the blank with the appropriate adjective, such as color (most commonly used) or other significant characteristic (tall, short, big, small, close, far, beautiful, ugly, etc). Then the other participants try to guess what the object is. The winner gets to choose the next target. The object of the "Alphabet Game" is to be the first to find all the letters of the alphabet on signs, vehicles, or license plates outside of your own vehicle. Both of these games have the advantage of sharpening awareness of the countryside you are traveling through and sometimes the kids will discover a sign for an interesting side trip or attraction you might want to consider visiting. Letting them choose some of the attractions along the way will help them feel more like it is their trip as well as yours. If they do spot something and you don't have time to stop on this trip, jot it down so you can make time for a future visit. Identifying license plates from as many states as possible is another fun and easy travel game and (don't tell the kids), educational. Singing songs is also a good way to pass the time and keep kids occupied. One of our family favorites was "Beep Beep", a song about Rambler passing a Cadillac.  It had special meaning for our family because my Dad was an American Motors (Rambler) mechanic for many years.  If you don't remember that old 60's song, the Rambler outruns the Cadillac!  Another time-proven travel game is the license plate game:  see how many different states you can identify on passing license plates -- only one person gets to claim a particular sighting.

With today's technology, kids can bring along their favorite tunes on their Ipods or smart phones or watch their favorite movies on in-car entertainment systems, greatly reducing the incessant plaintive cries of "Are we there yet?".  But if they get really involved in a movie the plea may change to "Are we there already?".

Trip planning can also go a long way toward making the journey more enjoyable for everyone. Build in or leave time for some interesting stops along the way. Even a few minutes strolling around a road side rest area will rejuvenate the driver and get rid of some of the wiggles of the younger set. Many rest areas include kiosks with information about local history and attractions that are both fun and educational. Involve the kids in planning the trip. The more they are invested in what is going on, the better their attention span.  Watch for historical sites, which are often identified by signs before you get there so you can plan your stop.  Almost without exception you will find nice views and interesting information to share with your young wards.

We often made the long trip from our home in southern California to visit grandparents in Oregon. Quite frequently we were on a fairly tight schedule and simply "flew" up I-5. There are few roads as boring as I-5 through the Central Valley of California (it is flat and straight and not much to look at) but you can make great time! One year we allowed ourselves more time and took an alternate route that included the 49er Trail on Highway 49, through much of the Gold Rush country, stopping for mine and museum tours and enjoying plenty of local foods. Small cafes in small towns tend to serve up some of the biggest and best breakfasts I've ever eaten -- and at reasonable prices. That trip was one of the least stressful we ever took with the kids. It was a lot of fun and everyone learned a great deal about the California Gold Rush and what life was like in a mining camp or laboring in the mines. Another year we chose to travel the Coast Route home from Oregon, which took us through the redwoods and provided many miles of fantastic beach and mountain scenery. We could make it to Grandma and Grandpa's house in one day if we drove straight through on I-5, arriving tired and sometimes with cranky kids (and adults!). Taking the more scenic routes required two or more days of travel time each way, but everyone was in better shape when we got there and got a lot more out of the time spent on the road and created a lot more memories.  Being better rested and in a move convivial frame of mind frame of mind from a less stressful trip let us enjoy our time with our family even more, making up for some of the extra time spent enroute.

Take a few minutes, before you leave home, to look over historic, cultural, or entertainment opportunities along the route to your next destination. And remember to watch for those "Historical Marker" signs along the way.  You'll likely find plenty of interesting side trips along the way. Not all of them will fit your interests or your schedule, but you can usually find several that do. There have been few side trips that ever left us wishing we hadn't spent the time. When we first started out it took a trip to the library or the local BLM, Forest Service, or Parks department to get information. Now you can get more information than you can use in just a few minutes right from home using the Internet. Taking a wifi enabled laptop or Smart Phone along will allow you to look up information along the way and answer unexpected questions from curious youngsters. You can find free wifi at many truck stops and restaurants these days.  Even some McDonalds have it.  If you can't find wifi you should be able to use a "hot spot" app on your Smart Phone.  Some GPS systems offer local attractions on the map or the ability to search for things by category. 

Making kids comfortable. Traveling by RV will be a new experience for many children, at least at first. Encourage them bring along favorite books, games, small toys, and, if you have the technology, CDs and movies. Find room to bring their bicycles along if you can.  And bring your own too! Bikes provide hours of wholesome exercise and a freedom to explore that stimulates young imaginations. Plan on serving some of their favorite foods and treats. Over the years we developed several snack traditions that our kids and even our grandkids still enjoy. A camping trip is probably not a good place to experiment with exotic recipes that even YOU may not like. However, it is often a good opportunity to explore some basic pioneer cooking, which keeps things simple and is a good fit for camping activities. Make sure they bring clothing that is appropriate to the climate, weather, and activities. And don't be afraid to let them get dirty! It will wash off -- eventually. But the memories will last a lifetime.  Invite the kids to bring along a favorite pillow, blanket, or teddy bear to make sleeping more familiar.  The excitement and novelty of travel and camping often translates into difficulty sleeping so making things as familiar as possible will help them (and you) get through the night.  Encourage them to bring their teddy bears and favorite blankets.

Educate yourselves. Kids are naturally curious. You can expect dozens of questions along the way, ranging from traffic, vehicle, and location inquiries to probing questions about the human or geologic history of various sites you encounter. I'm sure you will find it interesting and entertaining to learn more about all these things too. Just how do lava caves form? How long do redwoods live? How tall is the tallest redwood?  What was that truck hauling? What is that building for? How high is that mountain? How deep is that lake? How cold/fast is that river? The questions are endless, providing infinite opportunities to share your knowledge and experience with your kids and grandkids. Of course, some questions may require a more immediate response than others. "Why does this spider have a red hour glass on its tummy?" will probably prompt a quick stop to prevent a black widow spider bite! "Where does that road go?" or "What is the name of that mountain?" might be something you can answer together with the help of a map the next time you stop -- and take a moment to give a little map-reading instruction.  Or it might give you an excuse to do some unscheduled exploring. Questions like that are good reminders that it may be time to pull over and stretch your legs -- and your imaginations.

Maps. While we're on the subject of maps, maps can be a great tool to keep kids entertained on a long trip. Before you leave home, give each child his or her own map and show them how to identify landmarks along the route. Give them a marker to trace your progress. For younger kids you might want to make sure it is a washable marker or you'll end up with permanent artwork on your table or your upholstery. You may need to call out significant landmarks, especially for younger kids. "We just crossed the Mississippi River." "We are now entering Cheyenne." "We are climbing up the Siskiyou Pass". Letting them chart progress on their own maps helps them get a feel for where they are and helps them develop map-reading skills they may find useful when someday, they are doing the planning and driving. Modern hand-held GPSs can add a level of accuracy and detail that can be educational as well as fun.

In camp activities. If your outing includes OHV activities, you will have lots of in camp things to do. Make the kids part of setting up your camp. They can help get out camp chairs and firewood, connect power cords and hoses (if you're in a campground with hookups), even help set up awnings and tents and rolling out awning mats. If you have OHVs, they can help unload and prep them to ride as well as get out and prepare their own personal gear. OHVs always need some attention:  fuel, lubricants, cleaning, checking adjustments, tightening fasteners, etc.  They need to learn to take the time to get things set up before simply riding off in search of their own excitement and pleasure. Sooner or later, you will all return to camp and having everything organized and ready will make things easier and more enjoyable. Neither you nor your kids are gonna feel much like doing all those routine setup chores after 3 or 4 hours out on the trails! Let the kids know what they're doing isn't punishment or just "busy work", but real jobs that you NEED their help with. Even two- and three-year olds can carry a stick or two of firewood or toss their own paper plates etc into the trash or the fire.  Yeah, I know, sometimes it is faster and easier to just do things yourself, but the long term  rewards of sharing responsibilities and teaching skills and good habits to your young companions will pay dividends for them -- and for  you -- for  years to come.

If OHVs are part of your regular outings, be prepared to include children in at least some of the rides.  Modern side-by-sides make that easy.  Carrying a small child on an ATV or dirt bike takes some extra care, skill, and planning but it can be done very successfully.  As the kids approach kindergarten age you might consider getting them their own rides if its in your budget.  Small (50cc) dirt bikes and ATVs are designed for little kids, with simple controls.  They often have adult-controlled methods such as exhaust restrictors to limit power and acceleration, allowing you to tailor the power of the machine to the capabilities and developing skills of the child.

If OHVs are not part of your current curriculum, plan appropriate activities for you and the kids long before you arrive in camp. Nature hikes, fishing, swimming, and lawn games are all quick, easy, and popular activities. If the weather isn't cooperating you may need some indoor activities to pass the time. Being cooped up in a small space with one or more energetic youngsters will soon try the patience of even the calmest parent or grandparent. Once again, games, books, puzzles, and movies are the traditional solutions to this problem. More innovative adults might involve the kids in preparing the next meal or, although the kids may not like it, in performing routine cleaning tasks inside the RV. With the right attitude and proper instruction, even cleaning can be fun and is often necessary by the time you reach camp. It also provides a source of satisfaction when a job has been done well.

Night time activities. Night time in camp provides some unique opportunities you won't find at home. Teach the kids how to safely build a camp fire. Sit around the fire and tell family stories. Sing favorite songs or songs from a camp songs book. Look at the sky. Even without the aid of a telescope you can identify many constellations. A particularly useful one is the Big Dipper, since it can be used to locate the North Star, which provides an overhead landmark for navigation. Other popular and prominent constellations are the Little Dipper, Cassiopeia, and Orion. Not all constellations are visible at all times of the night or at all times of the year, so a pocket star-guide may be helpful. Many kids today have never seen the Milky Way, since city lights completely obscure it from view. They will be fascinated to learn that cloudy band across the sky is actually a view through the billions of stars that make up the disk of our Galaxy. I once baffled a fellow camper when I commented that we were "comfortably basking in the glow of a hydrogen-fusion furnace 93 million miles away." He questioned the accuracy of my reference to the distance from the Earth to the Sun, claiming an orbit that would have put us somewhere inside the orbit of Mercury where our oceans and even atmosphere would boil away.  Even after I provided written proof from an astronomy book I had on board he still didn't believe me and insisted he would have to look it up on the Internet when he got home. Guess that's a result of our modern, computer-focused society.  Speaking of the Internet, you might use it to research some the stories and legends associated with the constellations.  For example, the Big Dipper was also known as "The Drinking Gourd" and there is an old folk song called "Follow the Drinking Gourd" that tells how it was used to help slaves find their way north to freedom.  The Indian legends call the Big Dipper the Big Bear and explain that the long tail (the handle of the Bid Dipper) is the result of a chief grabbing a large bear by the tail and swinging it around and around so much that its tail stretched out before flinging it into the sky

A small celestial telescope, or even a pair of binoculars, can provide enhanced views of the moon and stars or even the Milky Way. With even a modest telescope you should be able to see the rings of Saturn, the red glow of Mars, and the red spot on Jupiter, something that always delights youngsters. Optically enhanced views of the Milky Way reveal that what looks like clouds are really billion of distant stars.  Seeing or reading about these features in science books is interesting, but seeing them for real takes on new meaning. Since planets are "wandering stars", you will need a sky-map to know where to look for them -- unless you are well-versed in astronomy. The most useful maps I've seen are a kind of night sky calculator, a disk with markings along the circumference that you use to set the date and time in order to align the disk with the night sky. Use a red filter on your flashlight when looking at your star maps to preserve your night vision for viewing celestial bodies. White light will make your irises constrict and limit your night vision. You may need filters to view the moon. While it is comfortable to view the moon with the naked eye, it is incredibly, even painfully and possibly dangerously, bright when viewed through a telescope or binoculars, so be cautious. By the way, a celestial telescope usually inverts the image so they aren't very useful for viewing objects on the ground. Knowing the image is inverted can help you when you need to align the telescope, because if you move it the direction that seems intuitive, it will probably go the wrong direction.

While on the subject of astronomy, how many planets are in our solar system?  If you said nine, you are a little out of date.  The correct answer is eight.  Recent discoveries of more planetoids in the Kuiper Belt (such as Huamea and Makemake), some larger than Pluto, have caused it to be designated a planetoid or dwarf planet.

Geocaching is a pretty popular activity for kids of all ages these days and kind of blends modern electronic technology with an old-fashioned treasure hunt.  It bills itself as the world's biggest treasure hunt. You'll need a good GPS and know how to use it.  You can get clues for where to find caches by signing up for free on Geocaching.com.  Usually you collect a souvenier (treasure) from each cache you locate and you are expected to contribute something of  your own to replace it.

Another fun night time activity is trying to identify night creatures in the area around you. Owls, coyotes, and raccoons are common inhabitants of the night in many places. Owls and coyotes can be identified by the sounds they make. Raccoons tend to be less vocal but are more likely to approach your camp, especially trash cans, in search of a meal. Various insects will be attracted to lights. Unless you have a particular interest in entomology you probably won't find viewing or naming them particularly appealing or useful, but just watching the variety and their interactions with the light and with each other can be fascinating, even if you don't know what to call them. We sometimes use a portable bug catcher light to control insects around our camp and RV. The kids get a kick out of the snapping sound when a hapless bug ventures too close to the light and gets zapped. You can tell the air temperature by counting cricket chirps. Count the number of chirps in 14 seconds and add 40 to get the Fahrenheit temperature. The Celsius formula is a little more complicated: count the chirps in 25 seconds, divide by 3 and add 4.

Which brings us to yet another topic: Insect Control. Just about anywhere you go camping you will encounter insects, many of which are benign, but some of which can cause discomfort or even serious dangers to human beings. I mention insects here in the section on Traveling With Kids because kids tend to be particularly susceptible to insect bites, probably because of their propensity to explore things, which brings them in contact with insect infestations. Hopefully, as we adults have grown older we've learned to avoid unnecessary contact with insects and limit our exposure.  If anyone in your party is allergic to bee stings, be sure to see your doctor for a prescription for an Epi-pen and learn how -- and when -- to use it.

Mosquitoes are one of the most common problems, especially around lakes and rivers, which are popular camping spots. Mosquitoes will be prevalent anywhere there is standing water, such as in an old quarry or near irrigation canals and ditches. Mosquitoes can be more than just an annoying

nuisance.  They can carry West Nile and other serious diseases.   Minimizing the amount of exposed skin is one of the basic ways to prevent mosquito bites. Wear long sleeved shirts and long pants. Avoid sandals and open shoes and wear socks. Hats with mosquito nets can protect the face and neck. For exposed skin, such as face, neck, ears, and hands, apply a good mosquito repellent such as Deep Woods OFF. It contains a chemical called DEET that is recognized as the best defense against mosquitoes. Most often mosquito bites cause itching and discomfort because humans are allergic to the solution injected by the mosquito to thin our blood making it easier for them to suck it. We make things worse by scratching them and often causing them to become infected which is why they bleed or become red and swollen. In some areas mosquitoes also carry the West Nile Virus, a serious, sometimes deadly, disease. So preventing mosquito bites is very important. There are a number of devices to repel mosquitoes from patios and camp sites. Citronella candles, lamps, or torches are helpful and they are a pleasant addition to picnic tables and camp sites, but they are not as effective as "mosquito coils", which are ignited and give off fumes that repel the nasty little critters over a surprisingly large area. There are also personal electronic devices and bracelets you can wear to keep them away. Check the effective range of any mosquito repellent device and use as many as necessary to provide an adequate defense of you, your family, and your camp site. Bite sticks will take the sting out of insect bites. The active ingredient is ammonia, so just a drop of ammonia on a bite will do the same thing. Another quick and easy treatment to ease the discomfort of insect bites is ordinary toothpaste (not gel).  A spritz with automotive starter fluid will quickly take away the sting too, if you happen to have some of that handy.

Always keep the screens on your RV or tent closed to prevent insects from entering YOUR space. OK, maybe it isn't YOUR space, it is THEIRS but you're borrowing it temporarily and you want exclusive use inside your RV or tent.  You won't get much sleep with a squadron of mosquitos buzzing around your bed!

Bees and other stinging insects can also be a problem in some areas, mostly during the day time. Insect repellents may be effective against some but not all of these threats. If you or any member of you group are allergic to bee stings, you should carry and "epi-pen" for immediate use in case of a sting. Avoid walking through flowering plants that will attract bees. You might want to keep a can of wasp spray in your RV in case you discover a wasp nest near your camp site or on your RV. Don't wear flowered shirts or blouses.  By the way, wasp spray is a pretty good (and legal) substitute for Mace or pepper spray.  They usually have a range of about 15-20' meaning you can keep threatening animals (both 2 and 4-legged varieties) at a safe distance.  You don't need the training or licensing that is sometimes required to purchase MACE or pepper spray.

Spiders are very common and can be a threat both day and night. At any given time there is probably a spider within 3 feet of you at home or in the wild. Fortunately there are only a few species in America that are dangerous. The black widow is perhaps the most famous, but the bite of the Brown Recluse can be more dangerous. The best defense is to avoid places where spiders can be found. Don't reach under logs or rocks or into holes in trees or in the ground. Wear gloves when handling firewood. Black widow bites are painful but usually heal without serious implications. If you observe a severe reaction (extended swelling and redness, extreme pain, vomiting, etc) see immediate medical help. Brown recluse bites inject a venom that destroys tissue and can lead to large scale damage. One web site recommends applying activated charcoal directly to the bite to absorb the poison. If you suspect a brown recluse bite, seek medical attention right away. People have lost entire limbs due to untreated brown recluse bites.  BTW, did you know spiders eyes are reflective?  Some dark night hold a flashlight at the end of you nose an point it at the grass or shrubbery in your yard or campsite.  Holding it  at the end of  your nose aligns it so reflected light will come back to your eyes.  Chances are you will see multiple pinpoints of bright light reflecting back at you from the eyes of resident spiders.  This can be a fun activity to share with kids.

Don't you or your kids run around camp in flipflops or bare feet. And don't sleep with your bare feet exposed. Doing any of these is an open invitation for bugs to bite.   While this is especially true in desert environments where scorpions abound, it is also important in less threatening places since you can encounter poisonous insects anywhere.

Camping with kids can be a lot of fun -- for you as well as for them, if you are properly prepared. It may even give you a chance to be a kid again yourself! By the way, just about everything that applies to camping with kids applies to camping with senior citizens. My grandmother traveled with my mom and dad in their motorhomes for many years, and from what I saw, it was a delight for everyone. Grandma was well past retirement age (her doctor described her as "about 15 years out of warranty") and had some  physical limitations but she was always a source of wisdom and humor and delight.

Have fun everyone!

Maintaining Your RV's Interior Appearance

Keeping your RV clean and neat inside will make it more enjoyable to use and will help retain resale value. Regular cleaning of carpets and  upholstery will also help reduce wear, as embedded dirt and grit work like little grinders, cutting the threads from which the covering is made.  As with many situations, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Avoid activities or bringing objects or materials into your RV that will damage upholstery, flooring, or walls. Periodically clean your upholstery and carpets and apply some "ScotchGuard" to help repel stains. Appropriate use of indoor and outdoor mats can also help prevent dirt, sand, and mud from being tracked into your RV and ruining floors. Clean up spills as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading and from causing permanent stains. Avoid spills by using unbreakable containers and making sure cabinets and the refrigerator are securely latched before hitting the road.  Dirt left in upholstery and carpet can cause long term damage and not just stains that are hard to get out.  Grit can actually grind away at the fibers and cause premature wear.  Thoroughly vacuuming your carpet and upholstery often should be on your regular "to do" list.  Using blankets or slip on seat covers is one way to protect upholstery from sunlight and excess wear.  Just using reflective foam insulation panels in the windows will reduce sun damage to dashboards and upholstery and help control indoor temperatures -- keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

In camp and on the road. While there is a legitimate tendency toward the "I'm on vacation" syndrome when camping, it is still a darned good idea to keep your RV clean and orderly throughout your stay and your trip. Put things back where they belong when you are finished using them -- even if you expect to use them again later in the day. Clean up any spills immediately so they don't cause permanent stains or get spread further than necessary. Keeping things clean and orderly may seem to detract from your play time, but ultimately it will maximize it. You will be able to find what you need, when you need it instead of asking yourself "Now where the heck did I put the XXXXX?" or having to search through piles of clutter. Your RV will also be ready to roll should you need to leave unexpectedly due to a local or personal emergency. Clutter tends to beget clutter, so don't let the first stray object get things started. Clutter detracts significantly from the pleasure and convenience of using your RV. Over time you will discover the best way to organize the things you use most so they're always handy and ready to use when you want them.

Eliminate clutter.   One of the first tasks is to make sure everything is properly stored and that unnecessary items are removed.  It is really hard to clean counter tops, cupboards, upholstery, and floors if they are covered in stuff.  We are usually better at preventing clutter in our RVs than in our homes because it tends to slide around and cause problems if we don't, but some stuff can still accumulate over time.


Routine "post trip" cleaning. You should invest a little time at the end of each trip to perform routine cleaning: sweep and mop or vacuum all the floors. Vacuum upholstered surfaces (don't forget the beds!). Wipe down the tables and counter tops. Clean the sinks and tub or shower and toilet.  Many RV toilets are made of plastic which has a tendency to yellow and darken over time.  You can often restore them to near new color by cleaning them with a solution of vinegar and lemon juice.  Clean the stove and ovens. Clean up an spilled foods in the cabinets. Thoroughly clean the refrigerator. I like to use a window cleaner with ammonia to sanitize the fridge and help prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Also leave the door open once you've turned it off, removed the contents, and cleaned it. RV stores have little gadgets to hold the fridge door open an inch or so to allow the inside to dry thoroughly and further prevent the development mold and mild while keeping the door from swinging open. Remove the ice cube trays from the freezer or at least dump them out so they can dry. I like to store mine in my freezer at home so they're always full and ready for the next trip. Take any floor mats or rugs out and shake them, vacuum them, or beat them to remove loose dirt. Wash them if they are badly soiled.  Ordinary household furniture polish is usually adequate for routine cleaning of cabinets and counters. However, there are some wooden surfaces in my RV that I like to give a little extra attention to, to keep them looking their best. For more intense treatment during annual cleaning, I use a beeswax-based cleaner and wax on all natural wood surfaces. It takes more rubbing than spray waxes but adds deeper protection and luster. My motorhome has leather captain's chairs up front, and I like to use a good leather cleaner and preservative like Leather Balm on them after each trip. This is something that might be relegated to annual maintenance, but I like the idea of keeping the leather supple as well as clean. You might want to use saddle soap for a good deep annual cleaning of leather surfaces.   The dashboard is a huge expanse of vinyl. You will want to treat this frequently with appropriate detailing sprays to keep it in good condition and avoid cracks. I use the same SC-1 silicone-based detail spray I use on my dirt bikes. I have been told Armor-all and similar products are water-based and can actually contribute to drying out of vinyl surfaces requiring repeated applications to maintain appearance. Take any sheets, pillow cases, towels, etc that have been used out and wash them before returning them to the RV. Clean all glass surfaces (windows and mirrors, microwave doors, TV screens). Empty all trash cans and remove all used trash bags. Remove dirty clothing. Trash and dirty clothes left behind can perpetuate very unpleasant smells. Make sure any items you got out during the trip are returned to their proper places. Replenish any non-perishable supplies you used during the trip. Review any list you made during the trip of services, repairs, or changes of supplies and equipment (additions or deletions) you may have noted and take care of them now.

Annual Cleaning. Annual cleaning may be done as spring cleaning when you're getting your rig ready for the season or when you prep your rig for storage at the end of the season.  Annual cleaning, is more intense and more detailed than routine, post-trip cleaning.   Vinyl or tile floors should be stripped and re-waxed. Carpets and upholstery should be shampooed.   If you don't have a carpet cleaner it will probably be well worth renting a "Rug Doctor" from your local supermarket.  You may want to "flip" the mattress on your bed if you can. Not all mattresses are reversible, so make sure the bottom side matches the top before flipping it over.  At the very least, it should be thoroughly vacuumed and bedspreads, comforters and sleeping bags removed and cleaned. Even if they aren't heavily soiled, they are likely to have become laden with dust and residue from your body and cooking fumes. Bedspreads,comforters, and sleeping bags might need to be dry cleaned, but sheets and pillow cases and sleeping bag liners can go in the washer.  Take everything out of the cabinets and drawers and clean the drawers and cabinets with a disinfectant cleaner. If you've done your post-trip maintenance well, you shouldn't encounter any spills or leaky containers but if you do, clean up the mess thoroughly. Discard any expired or damaged food containers. If you find any unpleasant odors in your fresh water supply, you will want to add some bleach to the fresh water tank (one cup of bleach for each 60 gallons of water), then pump water through all the fixtures until you can smell the bleach at the faucets. Let it stand at least 4 hours, then drain the and flush the system. For an added measure of freshness, add some baking soda (a half cup in a gallon of water) to the fresh water tank then completing filling and flush it through the system, then drain and flush the entire system with fresh water one last time before refilling with fresh water for your next trip. There are products that can be added to the fresh water tank to help preserve the freshness, but they are normally not required unless your water source is contaminated if the tanks and system have been properly flushed. The black water tank, on the other hand, should ALWAYS get a fresh charge of holding tank chemicals as soon as it has been emptied -- unless you are winterizing your RV. Know the size of your tank in order to add the correct amount of chemicals. Too little is ineffective, too much just wastes money. Adding more with the idea that it will help cover foul odors is like pouring perfume on a pig! If the odors are getting really bad, dump and flush the tanks and start over as soon as possible.

Annual cleaning is a good time to review your on-board wardrobe. Discard any worn, torn or otherwise unusable items. Consider removing items that have not been used for a while. Are you missing anything you should have? Now would be a good time to complete your wardrobe. Check for any pest damage. Rodents and insects sometimes find clothing and other textiles to be appealing for their own residences and even for food, so inspect each item to make sure it is in good condition. It is also a good idea to make sure items you have on board still fit. We all tend to gain or lose weight at different times in our lives, so the jeans we hung in the RV 5 years ago may no longer fit. Keeping a used dryer cloth in the drawers and closet and cupboard spaces where textiles are stored has been reported to help repel pests and lend a fresh scent. This is a very easy -- and free! -- tip, and worth giving a try. The scent on unused ones may be a little strong.

Walls and ceilings. Walls and ceilings usually need little maintenance beyond regular dusting. Areas near the stove or sinks may need a little extra attention periodically to remove cooking residues or soap scum. If walls or ceilings become soiled, you should be able to clean them with a good all-purpose household cleaner. Wood paneling can then be treated with furniture polish to restore shine and provide a protective coating. Do not use furniture polish on wallpaper surfaces. Some RV ceilings are vinyl covered and can be cleaned and shined as you would the dashboard. If a wall or ceiling has become damaged -- either by impact or dry rot, the affected section may have to be be replaced. Sometimes you can simply install a new panel over a damaged one, but I wouldn't recommend this if the problem is dry rot caused by water damage. Water damaged sections should be removed, the areas behind them cleaned and sanitized and repaired, and new paneling installed.  Sometimes the covering on walls and ceilings may come loose from the paneling.  You may be able to reattach it by injecting glue behind it using a old livestock hypodermic needle or, if you can gain access to an edge, by gently lifting the covering and applying adhesive under it.   It is usually easier to get even coverage using a spray adhesive, but take care to avoid over spray or settling of airborne adhesive on other places where you don't want it.   Water stains can be hard to get out of light colored materials, but it may be worth giving it a try, especially if you can get to them before they have too much time to set.  A product called Instagone is said to remove even hard water stains.

Appliances. There are really only two highly visible appliances in most RVs: the range and the refrigerator. The water heater and furnace are usually hidden in cabinets, but should not be ignored. Regular maintenance is required on all appliances to keep the functioning properly as well as looking good. RV ranges sometimes have ovens and sometimes are just cook tops. In either case, routine cleaning is needed to keep them looking good and working well. If you've been doing your post-trip clean-up properly, little cleaning will be required. The oven can be cleaned with a conventional oven cleaner. The stove top can usually be cleaned with a good all-purpose household cleaner. You may need steel wool to clean the burners. Make sure to clean the openings around the edge as well as polishing the top surface. Spills sometimes clog the openings and degrade cooking performance and efficiency. The refrigerator needs cleaning both inside and in the back. Clean the inside of the fridge with an all-purpose household cleaner. I like to finish up by wiping mine down with a good glass cleaner with ammonia to help eliminate odors and prevent mold and mildew. Be sure to clean the door seals and the surfaces they mate to in order to maintain a good seal. Open the back side of the refrigerator (on the outside of your RV) and clean dust and debris that may have accumulated in the cabinet. Carefully remove the burner assembly and clean it. Take care to reinstall it exactly in its original position. Inspect the chimney above the burner to be sure there are no bird or animal nests in it. Brush off the coils. Dirt and dust accumulated there will have a negative effect on cooling efficiency. The furnace usually needs little maintenance. Check the outside vents to be sure they are clear and free from insect or animal nests. Make sure all inside vents are clear and not covered by rugs or furniture. If you have access to heat runs through cabinets or under the dinette, make sure they aren't kinked or flattened. Servicing of the hot water heater is best done during Spring Cleaning when you are de-winterizing your RV. At this time the water heater should still be empty. Remove the plug on the outside of the water heater and run a little water into it until it drains out the opening. The opening is usually a little above the bottom of the tank so you'll need to siphon out the last little bit of water using a short piece of plastic tubing. You can also use a piece of tubing attached to an air hose to blow out the last of the water and any debris that remains in the tank. You should turn any winter bypass valves to the normal position, then allow the hot water heater to be sanitized along with the rest of your water system. Inspect the pressure relief valve on the back of the water heater. If there are signs that it has been leaking, it may need to be replaced. Inspect the burner and if there is any dirt or debris present or it appears damaged, remove it and clean and/or replace it if necessary. Turn on the main propane valve and start the water heater. It should start up quickly and should have a bright blue flame. If the flame is yellow or sputters, you may need to have it repaired and adjusted by a qualified RV technician.

Vinyl surfaces, like dashboards and seats, can benefit greatly from period cleaning and conditioning. Many owners use products such as Armorall. Personally, I prefer something called SC-1. It is a detailing spray something like Armorall, but it is silcone based instead of water based. Their advertising tag line is "New Bike In A Can". I've used it for years on my dirt bikes and it does indeed make them look like new.  It also works great on dashboards and other vinyl surfaces.  Just avoid using on seats because it will make them very slippery until it tries thoroughly.

Carpets should be regularly vacuumed  and deep cleaned at least once a year.  I keep a can of spray carpet cleaner in my motorhome for spot cleanups on the road.  If carpets get faded you might be able to renew the appearance by dying them.  If they are TOO badly faded or worn, they should be replaced.  If replacing carpet you might want to consider using a hard surface like vinyl or laminate in the galley.  It is easier to clean.  But you'll still want carpet in the bedroom and perhaps on the engine cover (to insulate against both heat and sound from the motor).

Upholstered surfaces, including padded headboards, should be cleaned regularly and any tears repaired as quickly as possible to avoid additional damage.  Also clean any spills or stains right away to keep them from soaking in and becoming impossible to remove.  Remove the cushions from sofas etc periodically and vacuum out the debris that typically collects there.  Removing spilled food remnants will minimize odors, stains, and insect infestations and you might even find some spare change!

Leather seats should be cleaned with saddle soap and rubbed with a good leather conditioner like Leather Balm. This will help keep the leather clean and soft and prevent it from drying out and cracking.

Vinyl surfaces, like seats, dashboards, etc. leach chemicals into the air that put a fog on the inside of your windows.  In addition to cleaning the windows, you need to recondition the vinyl.  My favorite product for that is called SC-1 from Maxim.

Cabinets and paneled wall surfaces can be cleaned and polished with household furniture polish.   You should include this in at least your annual cleaning as residue from cooking vapors and dust and smoke that makes its way in from outside will accumulate and dull the appearance.  Regular cleaning  will make this a fairly quick and easy task, It could take some time and elbow grease if it hasn't been done in a while, but it will be well worth it.

With a little regular care, your RV interior and appliances will stay looking nice and give you many years of pleasure and will help maintain the resale value.

Keep it clean!

Maintaining Your RV's Exterior Appearance

RVs represent a substantial investment for most people, so naturally you'll want to keep yours looking as good as possible for as long as possible. Not only is it more pleasing to look at and to be seen in, it will help retain resale value if you keep it in good condition. A clean, shiny RV will also be somewhat more visible, making it a bit safer.  Theoretically, a smooth, shiny, well polished surface will also offer lest wind resistance and, considering the huge surface area of most RVs, that can translate to slightly better fuel economy.  Last but certainly not least, having a clean RV makes it easier to detect any developing problems such as loose fasteners, cracks, or deteriorating caulk around doors, windows, and fixtures.  Besides that, they're a lot more fun to look at than a dirty, faded rig.

Sunlight is very damaging to RV surfaces. It fades and oxidizes paint, decals, and rubber and plastic trim. It damages tires. It fades and rots exposed curtains and upholstery. A key way to protect your RV is to keep it out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Carports or sheds large enough to house an RV are rather expensive, but provide the necessary protection and are convenient to use. RV covers are a less expensive, albeit more labor intensive alternative and less convenient. You will see people using cheap tarps to cover their RVs, but a good quality RV cover provides much better protection. RV covers are usually breathable so they don't promote the accumulation to of moisture like ordinary tarps can do. Tarps also tend to be more abrasive and may damage paint and other RV surfaces as the wind blows if they are wrapped or directly on the RV. It will be better for the RV if the tarp is stretched above it like an awning -- but the tarp will be more difficult to secure and more susceptible to wind. Tire covers are relatively inexpensive and easy to use and, especially given how expensive it is to replace the tires on an RV, they are a good investment.

Keep your RV clean. Dirt and road film build up on our RVs while traveling and even while sitting in storage. This film tends to accelerate damage to RV surfaces and, besides that, it looks ugly. Dirt acts as microscopic sanding particles at highway speeds. The film that accumulates over time also speeds deterioration of clear coats and paint by trapping UV rays.  An acquaintance, who ran a body and paint shop in southern California, offered his customers a lifetime warranty on clear coat if they would just wash their cars at least twice a month.  Washing an RV is much like washing a car. It's just a LOT bigger! Use  good quality soap made for washing cars or RVs.  Many people use dish washing detergent.  It cleans OK, but it also tends to strip away the wax, so, unless stripping the wax is your intended goal, don't use dish soap.  Being by rinsing off the entire rig working from the top down before applying soap and starting to scrub.  Always begin by washing the roof first so any debris or dirty/soapy water can be washed off when you wash the sides. Take care when washing the roof of an RV. Not all roofs are constructed to allow full walk-on over the entire roof area. If the roof seems spongy when you step on it, try to find areas that have more internal support as you move around to clean the surface or put down a piece of plywood to distribute your weight. The types of chemicals you use to clean the roof will depend on what kind of roof surface you have. Most roofs can be safely washed with ordinary car wash soap, but some rubber roofs require special cleaners to prevent damage and restore and condition the surface. Be careful moving around on the roof. There are usually many obstacles up there you could trip over, and it is a L_O_N_G way to the ground! Watch out for vents, antennas, searchlights, storage pods, A/C units, and roof racks.  Once it is clean, using a good wax goes a long way toward keeping fiberglass and painted surfaces that way and protecting the paint and decals.  Wax should include UV inhibitors that help prevent sun damage.  I've found I can restore the luster and shine to many painted surfaces using a Turtle Wax product called "Colorback".  I've also had pretty good luck with "Speed Wax" from Maxim.  Speed Wax goes on and wipes off easily. If the paint isn't TOO badly faded you can get pretty good results with minimal effort. Severely damaged paint may required polishing with rubbing compound, a tedious and time consuming, but effective process.  Many RVers favor a product called "Protectall", which is easy to use and provides a slick, shiny surface and adds UV protection.  It was originally developed by a chemist for use on his personal airplane to maintain the appearance and to reduce wind drag.

Sap, road tar, and bird droppings often stain our vehicles and can be very difficult to remove without damaging the finish.  Specialized automotive cleaners can make the task easier but getting crap off before it has time to bake on is the best solution.  Once it has dried it may have etched the surface, making it more difficult to remove and leaving a mark once it has been removed.  Cleaning off stains on a daily basis when traveling in your RV isn't something most of us want to take time to do, but it can save a lot of effort down the road and perhaps even save the finish.  Be very careful using any kind of abrasive cleaners or pads since they may damage the finish.  Better to soak the offending spots with warm car wash solution or bug/tar remover for several minutes and wipe it with a soft cloth.  You might use something like a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on stubborn spots, but be careful not to rub too hard or you may still damage the finish.  Steel wool or even razor blades can be used on glass or chrome, but even the plastic scrubbers like "Scothbrite" pads can be rough enough to damage paint, clearcoat, and fiberglass.  Mineral spirits can be used to remove road tar.  There are specialized products for removing bugs, like the Love Bug Eraser and  Prosol Bugs N All.  The Love Bug Eraser is a cleaning sponge made of non-abrasive fibers.  Bugs N All is a spray on cleaner that quickly softens dried bugs for easy removal.  But even if you plan to use these specialty products, you'll want to get the bugs off as soon as you can so they don't adhere tightly to the surface or perhaps stain it as they decompose, especially on light colored surfaces.  Using these must might make the task easy enough and fast enough to do as needed while on a trip.

Unlike automobiles, RVs have several different types of surfaces and each requires its own specific cleaners and treatments for optimum appearance.  Many RVs have unpainted fiberglass siding.  Some have painted aluminum. Airstream trailers use unpainted aluminum siding.  Full body automotive style paint has become more popular in recent years.  Full body paint jobs require the same care you would give your car.  Wash and wax small sections at a time.  RV roofs may be finished similar to the sides and may be made of alumninum or fiberglass, but some have rubber roofs.  Make sure you know what you have and then use the appropriate cleaners, re-conditioners, and sealants for each one. If your RV has an automotive type paint you can clean, polish, and wax is like you would your car.   Unfinished aluminum or fiberglass units need special cleaners and special attention.   Some high quality auto polish/wax products can be used on fiberglass, especially if it has painted graphics.  I like using SC-1 detail spray on vinyl graphics.

Just like washing a car, begin by spraying the entire surface with clean water to rinse away loose debris and start soaking. Use direct scrubbing with a clean, soft cloth or sponge on stubborn stains. "Black streaks" are a common ailment with many RVs, the result of water running off the roof or around caulked seams, windows and doors. Special "Black Streak Remover" is available at RV supply stores and it will make cleaning a lot easier. When scrubbing, take care that you do not have any grit or dirt on your cloth or sponge as it will scratch the surface. If you should scratch the surface in this manner, you can probably buff it out using a rubbing compound, but that is a lot of extra work, so it is better to avoid damaging the surface in the first place. Wash, rinse, and dry a section at a time, no more than 2 or 3 feet square. Trying to do too large an area at once will likely leave you with stubborn water or soap spots that have dried on the portions you did first. Use a good window cleaner to clean the windows and windshield. If your RV is subjected to hard water from sprinklers at home or in a campground, you will likely have hard water spots that are difficult to remove. Sometimes the only way to remove them is by using rubbing compound on painted or fiberglass surfaces. Exercise caution using rubbing compound on unpainted fiberglass surfaces as it may damage the surface.You may be able to clean stubborn water spots from glass and chrome using a single-edge razor blade type scraper. Wet the surface with a strong glass cleaner, vinegar, or hard water treatment solution before and after using the scraper.  Wear latex or rubber gloves to protect your hands from harsh chemical cleaners.  Your windows should be crystal clear when you are done, making your RV more pleasant to look at and enhancing the view from inside your RV. Having a crystal clear windshield improves your view and is safer.  Even slight imperfections or streaks can refract light and create distractions or distort the view for the driver.   Be sure to clean the inside too, where vapors from cooking and even from vinyl upholstery can create a dull film that is especially difficult to see through when in direct sunlight.

Some products require multiple steps, doing cleaning, polishing, and sealing in individual processes using chemicals specific to the task.  This is often believed to deliver the best  results but requires a lot more time and effort than a single-step product that cleans, polishes, and seals in one step.  Multi-step processes obviously require more time and effort, but using products specific to each task and focusing on achieving maximum results at each step usually yields superior results.  But combination products will usually give satisfactory results if used correctly in far less time, often making it more likely that we'll do the job.  You may have to use one-step products more often to maintain a satisfactory appearance but the savings in having only one step may make it will worth it.

Waxing. Waxing an RV can be an intimidating task, but an essential one. Wax helps protect the paint or fiberglass surface from damaging UV rays.  The surface area is huge, quite literally, hundreds of square feet. Use the same techniques to wax an RV that you use to wax your car. Do a section at a time. In the case of an RV, that might mean selecting arbitrary portions of the surface, no more than about two or three foot square at a time. I usually use windows and other exterior features to help keep define the sections and keep track of what has and hasn't been done. Keep the vehicle out of direct sunlight which will dry the wax too quickly and make it difficult to buff out. If yours is an older unit and heavily oxidized, you will want to start with a quality polish/cleaner or even rubbing compound in extreme cases, to prepare the surface for waxing. You might save some time and effort by using a quality automotive combination polish/wax product. A lot of RVers like a product called Protect-All. It was invented by a chemist to wax his private airplane. It goes on easily and protects the finish from dirt, grime, and UV rays. I have tried Protect-All and found it lived up to its advertising claims. It works on just about all RV surfaces (fiberglass, aluminum, or painted).   However, when I'm dealing with heavily oxidized surfaces, I prefer something like Colorback, a popular automotive polish that removes oxidation and provides additives that help restore faded finishes. It works really well on faded paint and I've even had pretty good luck on faded decals and oxidized fiberglass.  Another neat wax product is Speed Wax from Maxim.  It is a one-step wax and polishing product that is easy to use and does a fair job of restoring faded paint.  There are also special products designed to restore badly oxidized fiberglass surfaces which may be worth trying if your fiberglass is dull and chalky.  Apply  Protect-all or a good wax after any rigorous cleaning to seal and protect the surface and preserve the shine.  There are products called shine boosters that can perk up the paint job between waxings.  They are fairly easy to use but won't provide the depth of shine nor long lasting protection of real wax.  Liquid, one step car polish and wax products are OK, but using a good paste wax after a good cleaning is even better.  It takes a little more effort but it puts down a shinier and more durable finish.

Clean your wheels and tires thoroughly. Commercial tire-cleaners and coatings will give your tires a like-new appearance. A mature mechanic friend of mine suggested using brake fluid instead of tire sprays, claiming it soaks into the rubber and helps replace lost ingredients that protect the tires against sun damage and sidewall cracking. Not sure I agree. It seemed to me that it attracted dust.  I prefer using a tire protectant specifically designed for that purpose, one that is buffed to a nice shine, not those you just spray and leave. While washing the wheels and tires, inspect them for any damage or excessive wear. You may not be able to detect loose lug nuts with your fingers, but if there is any wear or a shiny ring showing on the wheels around the lug nuts, they are or probably have been loose. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the torque of all the lug nuts with a torque wrench occasionally, just to be safe. The most accurate way to ensure they are properly tightened is to use a torque wrench.  Check cold tire pressure and top off any low tires. While under-inflation can be a serious problem when driving, causing handling problems, tire wear, and dangerous heat buildup, even sitting on under-inflated tires in storage can damage the tires. Bulging tires will take a "set" which creates a bumpy ride until the tire warms up and stretches back into its original shape -- if it ever does! Over-inflation will also adversely affect handling , making the vehicle feel skittish, and cause excessive wear in the middle of the tread. If your tires are wearing on both edges, you may be running them under inflated; if the wear is greater in the middle, they're over inflated.  Either way you're wearing your tire out too quickly and probably experiencing unnecessary handling problems. RV tires are way too expensive to be allowed to fail prematurely!  Wear only on one edge indicates an alignment problem.  You'll want to correct alignment issues to prevent further tire damage and avoid handling problems.

If you have aluminum wheels, which many luxury RVs do, check to see if they are coated or uncoated before attempting to buff them out. Coated wheels should only be washed and not buffed with aggressive wheel cleaners. If you can't tell if your wheels are coated, try cleaning an unobtrusive spot with a bit of wheel cleaner. If the rag quickly turns black, the wheels are uncoated, or at least the spot you're testing is uncoated. If the rag does not turn black, your wheels are coated and you should NOT use aggressive wheel cleaners to buff them out. It will remove the protective coating and accelerate surface oxidation.  Many RVs, especially older ones have wheel covers, wheel simulators, or hub caps over steel wheels.  You can greatly improve the appearance of an RV by replacing old hubcaps with modern wheel simulators that give the appearance of chrome wheels.  There are two styles of wheel simulators:  one that snaps in place like hub caps and one that is fastened under the lug nuts.  You usually only have to remove every other lug nut to install them.  The snap in versions are obviously easier to install but the bolt-on style won't come off on bouncy roads.

There is usually very little chrome or "bright metal" on modern RVs,  but if you do have chrome trim it can be cleaned with metal polish.  You can usually remove rust spots that sometimes pit older chrome surfaces by simply rubbing them with a copper penny.  The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't scratch the chrome plating.  Be careful (or avoid) attempting this technique on polished aluminum as it may scratch the softer metal.  Severely rusted chrome parts might have to be removed and taken to an electroplating shop to be re-chromed to restore a like new appearance.  It requires a bit of work and might be somewhat expensive, but it can significantly improve the appearance and extend the usable life of an older RV.   A good metal polish should restore the shine on most bright metal components, like mirrors, grills, door handles, and bumpers. 

Plastic surfaces, such as taillight lens and many newer headlights may require special treatment to keep them looking -- and working -- like new. There are plastic cleaning kits available from auto supply stores you can use to clean fogged plastic headlight lenses or you can have them done at many auto repair shops or detailers. Cost of a do-it-yourself kit is typically under $10. Having a pair of headlights restored will run you $35 or so. Keeping your lenses clean is more than just cosmetic. Discolored or damaged lenses can be a safety hazard. If you have missing, cracked, or broken lenses on taillights, turn signals, or clearance lights, they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace. Plastic headlight lenses tend to be quite expensive and difficult to replace so you'll want to keep the originals in good condition as long as you can. Fogged and faded lenses limit and distort the light pattern, significantly reducing the effective range and coverage of headlights, so you'll want to keep them crystal clear if you can! I like to use SC-1 on the all the plastic lenses to brighten and protect them and make them more resistant to sun rot, dirt, and road film after I've cleaned them.

I test all the lights whenever I wash my RV. That way, if any are in need of repair or replacement, I'll have time to take care of it before the next trip. If you find that lights aren't working yet the bulbs are good, chances are the problem is in the ground side of the circuit. You can easily test the "hot" side using a test light or a volt meter. Make sure you have a good ground for your test equipment! RVs are quite prone to grounding problems. Unlike ordinary cars and trucks whose bodies are mostly made of metal that provides a good ground for lights, RVs bodies are often made of wood and fiberglass, both good electrical insulators, so specific ground wires are required. These ground wires may become damaged from the normal twisting and vibration of the unit or the connection to light fixtures or to the vehicle ground may become loose or corroded. Correcting a faulty ground will often cure problems with several lights. Faulty grounds can cause strange symptoms, such as both stop lights blinking when one turn signal is activated. I've even seen a bad ground cause the clearance lights and front park lights to blink along with the turn signals. In this case the turn signal ground was bad and they were grounding back through the tail light circuit, which includes the clearance lights.   To correct a faulty ground connection, carefully remove the screw or bolt securing the terminal.  If the terminal itself is broken or badly damaged, cut it off and replace it.  Clean the surface it connects to with cleaning solvent and a wire brush and/or emery cloth until it is clean and shiny before reconnecting the terminal.  If you didn't replace the terminal, be sure to clean the old one thoroughly before connecting.  If the connecting screw is badly rusted or corroded, replace it with a new one, preferable stainless steel so it will resist future corrosion.

When you wash your RV is also a good time to check for leaks around doors, windows, vents, etc. If you find any leaks, take appropriate measures to fix them as soon as possible. You may have to wait a day or two for the area to dry before you can make repairs, so keep a log of what you find. Also pay attention to the seams in your RV "skin". If anything is starting to come loose you will want to correct it immediately before it gets any worse. Some loose fasteners may only need to be tightened or, if the defective areas involve pop-rivets instead of screws, you may have to drill them out and replace them. Timely replacement of a few failed fasteners may prevent far more extensive and expensive repairs that will be needed if the whole component comes off! Make sure to use an appropriate sealant between mating surfaces to ensure a watertight seam. Roof vents, which are exposed to a lot of sunlight and lots of wind, are particularly prone to loosening, so pay particular attention to them. Most RV windows are doors are installed using putty tape and are often also sealed with silicone caulk. Sometimes you can clean off the old caulk and replace it to stop a leak but often you may have to remove the door or window and scrape off and replace the putty tape for a permanent repair. An RV roof and waterproofing specialist recommended the use of DAP sealer rather than ordinary household caulk. The household caulk is easier to find and less expensive, but in my experience, the DAP sealant looks and works better. Be careful to apply only enough to seal the gaps. Excessive caulk is really ugly, especially around windows, and actually won't seal as well as using the proper amount.  It is normal to use copious amounts of caulk around the screws and edges of roof vents.  The caulking on RV roofs typically needs to be scraped off and redone every year or two.

Repainting an RV can be an expensive project so you want to keep yours in as good as condition as possible. I saw the invoice for just a partial paint job on one of my RVs and I'm glad it was done BEFORE I bought it. The previous owner paid over $6000 to repaint just the lower 2' and one 6" band across the front! Unless the color is something you can't live with, I would always try restoring the finish using ColorBack or a similar product before resorting to repainting. I have had some success repainting stripes myself on travel trailers and truck campers. Most of each unit was white, but they each had some sections that had been a highlight color that had long since faded beyond recognition or repair. The stripes on one camper were originally a nice walnut colored wood grain finish. When I got it, they had faded to an even light brown the color of cocoa powder with the sheen (or lack thereof) of primer. These sections are usually small enough that you can mask them off and, if you have a fairly good technique with a spray can, can repaint them to give new brilliance to the RV.  Preparing the surface properly is a key factor in getting good results.  Dirt, grime, road tar, and all the old wax must be completely removed.  Using a primer also helps to get the paint to adhere securely.   Sometimes the surface is dippled. When it is, it is easier to blend paint strokes and avoid runs. If you do get runs you may be able to gently blot them away and touch up the area with another light spray.   Large, completely smooth surfaces will require a more professional touch with an air powered spray gun for good results. If you doubt whether your equipment or skill will be adequate, you should probably invest in having it done by a professional. A poor paint job may look worse than the faded original, lowering both your satisfaction with the appearance and the potential resale or trade in value.  I have seen RVs that were repainted using house paint and a brush and roller and they looked like crap!  If that's your only alternative, don't waste your time!

With appropriate care you can keep your RV looking good for many years. You will feel better about using it and it will retain its resale value better if it is well maintained.

Keep it clean!