If you are staying in a developed campground, private or public, there will usually be posted rules. But what if you are boondocking or staying in and open caming areas or a primitive BLM or Forest Service campground? Does that mean there are NO RULES? NO! Each agency has its own guidelines you must follow, many of which are specific to a particular area, and there are a number of unwritten rules you should ALWAYS observe, no matter where you are camped. Let the "Golden Rule" be your basic guide. Think about how you would like your camping neighbors to behave, and behave accordingly. Perhaps more importantly, think about how they would like YOU to behave! Most campers are pretty gregarious and but some do like their privacy and I'm sure there are times when everyone needs -- or wants --a little privacy.
Here are some general rules you should always follow. Doesn't matter if you're in a fancy campground or camped out in the boonies.
Never, ever allow raw sewage to drain from your RV onto the ground. If you are in campground with hookups or using an external sewage tank, make sure your connections are secure to avoid spills. Drain black water tanks ONLY into an approved, closed sewage tank or dump station and not into an open bucket. In some places draining gray water into an open bucket is allowed, but you will still find it more convenient, pleasant, and sanitary to drain gray water into a closed container. Camping stores sell special tanks made just for this purpose. The larger ones even have wheels to make them easier to transport to the dump station. It helps contain any foul odors and reduces the chances of spillage when you transport the container to be dumped in an approved location. I have seen campers attach a garden hose to a specially designed cap on their gray water drain valves when boondocking to allow gray water to drain out away from the vehicle into the desert or forest. This practice is unsanitary and in most places is illegal but it helps keep the gray water tank from filling as quickly, which is sometimes a major advantage when boondocking in the desert for several days. If you choose to use this method, first check the local regulations, then ensure you will not be contaminating waterways or flooding roads or trails or other campsites. Try to route it downwind so breezes don't bring the odors from your waste water back into your camp or any one else's. The cap with a hose connection is also a convenient way to drain off a bucket of gray water to use to douse your campfire without having to deal with a flood from the 3" drain. If you install an inline shut off valve on the hose before you connect it to the cap, you can easily turn the flow on and off without overfilling your bucket and spilling dirty water on the ground. Spills can create unpleasant odors near your RV, so be careful. Odors are usually not a problem when the gray water is dumped on a campfire unless the water is particularly foul to begin with. Usually the heat from the fire and/or coals will burn off any odor-producing products. Never dump black water on a campfire! If the unpleasant smell of draining it and transporting it doesn't disuade you, the stench of burning it will and it may cause strong, perhaps even violent reactions among nearby campers!
Generator usage. Developed campgrounds will usually post approved hours for running your generator. Lacking posted hours, common sense will dictate what is appropriate. Generally speaking, don't run your generator before 6:00 am (7:00 am is even better) or after 10:00 pm. However, observe the habits of your fellow campers and, if everyone has retired and shut down their generators by 8:00 pm, do the same. Running a generator too early reminds me of a tongue-in-cheek rule for suburbia: "anyone who runs a power lawnmower before noon on Saturday should have to shave with it!" Running your generator during quiet hours is a really good way to alienate yourself from your fellow campers and you may really not like the actions they may take in response to you lack of consideration.
Other noise pollution. There are other sources of noise that are obnoxious to your neighbors besides your generators. Some people don't so much listen to music as absorb it and have tendency to turn the volume up until it approaches the threshold of pain. A group of teenagers rolled into an OHV camp about 3:00 am and proceeded to blast their in-car stereos at full volume with all he doors open while they unloaded and began setting up their camp. The bass notes seemed capable of doing CPR on anyone within audio range. After enduring their unwanted "concert" for as long as I could stand it, I politely approached them and asked them to tone it down. They were surprisingly cooperative and I got applause from several other nearby campers on my way back to my RV. If you MUST have your music blasting in your ears, wear headphones! Same with your TV, especially if it is outside your RV. Kids and pets can be a source of irritation to fellow campers. Many RVers travel with their kids or grandkids and many with pets. Kids and pets have a kind of natural energy that needs room for expression. There are usually playgrounds in developed campgrounds and open areas away from camp when you are boondocking where your young folks and pets can safely play without annoying your fellow campers. There is NO NEED for them to be running and screaming in your camp and absolutely no excuse for them to encroach into other camp sites or common areas or to pester fellow campers.
Other nuisances. Cooking odors and even campfire smoke can be annoying to your fellow campers. Some people are even allergic to smoke and may become ill if exposed to it. Avoid cooking foods that produce strong odors and use only good, dry, seasoned firewood on your campfire. Never burn green wood or wood that is painted or has been treated with chemicals as green wood produces excessive smoke and treated wood can produce toxic fumes. If the smoke from your campfire is steadily blowing into someone else's RV or tent or camp site, douse the fire until the wind shifts. If you smoke, either restrict your smoking to inside your vehicle or approved Smoker's Areas or try to avoid letting your smoke intrude into another camp site or vehicle. BTW, during fire restrictions, smoking is limited to inside vehicles or other structures. If your campfire fire is upwind from someone else, it might be a good idea to put it out until the wind changes direction rather than subject them to smoke and embers blowing from your fire. If common courtesy doesn't convince you, perhaps your wallet will: should the breeze pick up embers and catch something on fire, you could find yourself liable.
Arrival and Departure times. Since the noise of driving in or starting our RVs and driving off may wake other campers, try to schedule your arrival and departure times at reasonable hours, outside of "quiet time". If you MUST arrive or depart during quiet time, minimize your impact on your fellow campers. Dim your headlights or use just your parking lights while maneuvering in your site at night and try to get in your spot as quickly as possible. Don't have someone stand outside your RV and shout instructions. If you need an outside guide to enter or leave your site, use walkie-talkies or hand signals or flashlights to communicate quietly.
OHVs. It should go without saying that you should never start your OHVs in camp during quiet time. If you must get an early start, push your OHV away from camp before you start it up. Even bikers from an outlaw motorcycle club staying at a resort where I worked extended that courtesy to the other guests, pushing their bikes some distance down the road before firing up the big "hogs". Always be considerate of your fellow campers as you ride in or out of camp. Avoid excessive noise, speed, and dust. You may be camping with other OHVers, but that is still no excuse to subject them to unnecessary noise or dust or the dangers of excessive speed. Even though they are fellow riders that may be more tolerant than non-riders, it can still be quite annoying. There is plenty of time and plenty of places to go fast once you're in an open riding area or out on the trails.
Lighting. Illuminating your campsite is often essential for late evening and night time activities. However, take care to aim your lights so they illuminate YOUR activities and not your neighbor's camp or bedroom windows. Don't leave your porch lights on all night or when you are away from your vehicle for an extending time. Some folks like to leave the porch light on so they can find their keys and see the lock when they return after dark. If you need light for these functions, carry a flashlight. Leaving your lights on will deplete your batteries and annoy your neighbors. Some exterior RV lights have switches that allow them to be turned on and off from the outside so they can be used briefly when needed. If yours does not, you may be able to replace the fixture with one that does or wire in a separate external switch so you can conveniently turn your light on and off as needed. Motion sensor lights may be another easy solution, turning on when you approach and off again when activity has ceased. I have found this to be an ideal solution and enjoy the friendly "greeeting" from my RV when returning after dark. Motion sensor lights may also provide a bit of security by exposing the presence of would be thieves and discouraging them before they strike.
Encroachment. Do not encroach on your neighbor's camp site or into the roadways or common areas. That means keep your vehicles, your equipment, your kids, your pets, your noise etc in your camp site. If your vehicle is too big for the your site, check with park management about getting a larger site. Never park on the landscaped areas -- not even your bicycles! And keep your trash under control. Wind can wreak havoc with paper plates, cups, and napkins so keep them weighted down or under control and quickly retrieve them if they do escape. Never usurp another's camp site. If there are chairs, coolers, or other equipment in a site, consider it taken and find another site unless you were specifically assigned that space by park management. If you do find someone in your assigned space, report it to the campground manager or host immediately and let them deal with the offenders.
Trash. Keep all your trash in secure trash bags or containers with lids to avoid wind or critters from spreading it all over the place. Discarded food scraps are attractive to local fauna, who will quickly destroy unattended plastic bags and scatter garbage like mini tornadoes. Most developed campgrounds will have dumpsters where you can safely dispose of your trash. If you are boondocking, you'll have to follow the backpackers rule: "Pack it in, pack it out". If your stay exceeds a day or two you may need to double bag your garbage to contain the nasty odors that tend to develop in fermenting garbage. Sometimes you can incinerate some of your trash in your campfire, but consider whether it will create obnoxious or toxic fumes and odors. Paper plates and cups are usually safe to burn, even with some food residue on them. Styrofoam and other plastic containers can generate toxic fumes and perhaps should not be burned in a campfire. NEVER put pressurized containers, such as whipped cream or cooking sprays, in a campfire. Even if the contents are not flammable, the heat can cause the container to explode, sending dangerous shrapnel flying in all directions and potentially inflicting serious damage on bystanders, vehicles, and equipment.
Firearms and fireworks. Discharging firearms or setting off fireworks is prohibited in most camp grounds, including many primitive sites on BLM or Forest Service land. In some remote locations, shooting may be allowed, but even in these situations, never discharge a firearm near other vehicles, equipment, or people. Many people enjoy sport shooting, but it should only done on a safe "range". If you are in a remote area that allows shooting, identify a safe area with a suitable backstop to set up targets and carefully mark off the area so fellow campers, hikers, or riders won't wander into danger. Remember that many firearms can shoot over great distances and make sure the area behind your targets and even behind your backstop is clear. It is always a good idea to designate a "range master" to keep an eye on both the shooters to ensure safe practices and to watch for anyone who might wander into the line of fire. The use of fireworks is governed by state and local laws and by agency regulations so be sure to know the rules for your location. Even the use of legal "safe and sane" fireworks is prohibited in most Forest Service and BLM camping areas. And just because you see others flaunting the law and setting off fireworks, doesn't mean it is OK. Fireworks present a danger of igniting unwanted fires in grass, bushes, trees, tents, and vehicles. I know of someone who had the roof of their car caved in when the casing from a large ariel "mortar" landed on it and I've seen errant fireworks shoot under vehicles where they could cause serious damage. I've also seen them burn deep holes in green lawns.
Pets. Many people like to bring their furry friends along when they go camping. Some private campgrounds allow pets and provide pet areas, some do not -- so check ahead so you don't get turned away when you are ready to turn in. Even when boondocking in remote areas you will need to control your pets, for their safety as well as out of respect for your fellow campers. Not everyone shares your love of your pets -- and some people may even have serious allergies. Keep in mind your pets may feel insecure in a strange environment, which may result in whining or other annoying behaviors. It may also affect their digestive systems and create really unpleasant problems if not properly addressed. If you are in a campground with a designated pet area, only let your pets "do their business" in the pet area and not in your camp site or any other part of the park. If you are boondocking, walk your pets out away from all vehicles. If they leave a mess where it will be a hazard to fellow campers, clean it up! Pets may become attractive prey for local predators in remote forest or desert campgrounds. Coyotes, wolves, bears, and cougars are common through much of North America and any small animal, like a cat or dog, can quickly become a tasty snack for them if left unprotected. Most domesticated animals lack the experience and their instincts may have been dulled that protect themselves from wild animals.
Reserved spaces. This is a double-edged sword. If someone has already staked out a camp site they may place camp chairs in the parking area or leave an ice chest on the picnic table. Sometimes they may even have little signs with their name designating their claims. As a courtesy, we should respect such claims and look for another site -- unless someone is trespassing on your ASSIGNED camp site. If you encounter trespassers in an assigned space, report them to the ranger or camp host rather than confronting them. It will be a lot more pleasant for everyone. The other side of this situation calls for us to be thoughtful and considerate when claiming camp sites. Check with rangers or camp hosts regarding their policy before "reserving" camp sites unofficially for your friends and family. Try to get everyone to arrive about the same time so you can all stake out your territories simultaneously. Don't "claim" a site while you tour the campground to see if there is one you like better. Try to do all of your exploring before you stake any claims. A careful review of the map when you check is usually sufficient to avoid choosing a site that wouldn't be appropriate for your needs.
Proximity to other campers will dictate some of your options and behaviors. Basically, the closer you are to someone else's RV, tent, picnic table, or campfire, the more you need to limit your impact on them. If you're camping way out in the boonies with no one else around, you'll have quite a bit of freedom. But if you're in a developed campground or camping together with a group, you'll need to take care. Being a good neighbor will usually ensure you have good neighbors.
Respect shared resources. Many times you will be sharing resources with other campers. You need to be considerate of their needs. Even when boondocking you will probably be camping in a group and may share a common campfire. Pay attention to where the smoke is blowing and avoid burning anything that creates excessive smoke or foul odors. Some places, like forest service campgrounds, have common water faucets to supply multiple camp sites. Don't monopolize the faucet filling a hundred gallon fresh water tank if there are other people waiting to use it. Common restrooms and showers in campgrounds are a major convenience for tent campers and give RVers an opportunity to enjoy more room than they typically have in their RV showers or enable more than one person to shower at the same time. A pet peeve of RV park owners is RVers who take the spare toilet paper roll from the bathrooms. That is a particularly bad idea for at least two reasons. First of all, it is stealing, plain and simple. Secondly, it is extremely inconsiderate of other users. How would YOU like to find all the toilet paper is gone when you need it? Lastly, the quality of toilet paper used in regular bathrooms isn't compatible with the holding tanks on RVs. RV toilet paper is specially made to break down in holding tanks. Regular household and commercial toilet paper doesn't break down so it can clog drain hoses and valves or accumulate inside holding tanks, contributing to inaccurate or non-existent sensor readings. In a way people who snag the spare toilet paper from the park restrooms deserve the problems it may create in their holding tanks. Speaking of toilet paper, don't you find it odd that businesses that claim their employees are their most important asset put them in open cubicles yet keep the toilet paper in locked steel boxes?
Recreational facilities are among the amenities found at many campgrounds. Keep in mind these are designed for the benefit of ALL campers and not intended for your exclusive use. Volleyball courts, tennis courts, basketball hoops, horseshoe pits, pavilions, etc must be considered community property and everyone given equitable access. It is particularly annoying when someone ties up a resource for other than its intended use for extended periods of time, like parking vehicles or putting picnic tables on the basketball court or using the horseshoe pit for a doggy toilet!
Campground reservations. Reservations are required at many campgrounds. Don't expect them to "make room" for you if you show up without one. You will usually be required to make a deposit when you make a reservation. Typically you will forfeit the deposit if you cancel the reservation. If you simply fail to show up, you will be liable for the full amount of the full time you reserved. If something comes up and you have to cancel or change a reservation, notify the campground as early as possible. Typically, any cancellation will forfeit the deposit (usually the first night's fee) and anything less than 7 days notice of cancellation may be charged the full amount. If you encounter these kinds of cancellation policies, the facility is not trying to rip you off. When they take your reservation they remove your site from their inventory and often turn away other requests. It is only reasonable that you pay for the site since you have prevented them from renting it to anyone else.
Camping etiquette is more about behaving responsibly and showing consideration for your fellow campers than it is about adhering to definitive and restrictive rules. To begin with, be sure to obey all posted rules. Then observe and copy good behavior by your fellow campers and avoid copying offensive or questionable actions. Oppressive rules and regulations develop as a result of repeated abuse.
Mind your manners!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Negotiating Hills With Your RV
Hey, lets face it, most RVs, whether motorized or towable, are HEAVY. That means it is going to take extra effort to get them up hills and they'll often come down faster than you want them to. Like the "Little Engine That Could", you need a positive attitude -- and a few good driving skills and tricks.
One of the key factors is to not overload your vehicle. Be aware of the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your motorhome and the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (CVWR) any vehicle towing a trailer. Exceeding the weight capacity puts extra strain on the drive train components and especially brakes and tires, affecting safety and handling as well as longevity. Weigh your vehicle(s) at a truck scale, and, if you find you're overweight, reduce the load before you permanently damage your equipment or have a serious accident! Since water is pretty heavy, you can often reduce load by keeping your holding tanks empty and by reducing how much fresh water you are carrying. If you are headed out to boondock in a remote area, you want your fresh water tank full when you get there, but if you're headed to a campground with hookups, or even one where you can refill your water tank easily nearby, don't fill your fresh water tank more than about 1/4 full on the road -- just enough to meet your needs while en route. Unfortunately, many motorhomes come from the factory with little extra capacity for cargo. Often they are close to being over weight even before you include water and passengers so it is really easy to exceed the weight ratings. If you find yourself in that situation about all you can besides limiting what you carry around, is to buy a motorhome with greater weight ratings. Although you might be able to upgrade springs and shocks so solve some ride issues, it really isn't practical to increase the weight ratings, which take into account many factors which are basic elements of the vehicle design. While tires and springs are often the most affected by load, there are many other factors to consider, including other parts including suspension, the frame, engine, transmission, and differential which could limit the maximum weight.
There are serious consequences to attempting a hill that is too steep or too long for your vehicle. Pay attention to your vehicle. If the engine temperature starts to climb or if you feel the transmission start to slip or it begins to blow smoke, pull over before you permanently damage your engine or transmission. Repairs can be VERY costly! A lot more costly than having your RV towed to safety and repaired before major damage occurs. Of course you will have checked all the critical components at the beginning of your trip so you have confidence in your equipment when you start climbing steep hills. Remember, check all belts and hoses before each trip. Check tire pressure every day before driving. Check oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels frequently. These routine maintenance procedures can save your trip, your vehicle, and your wallet!
If you are within acceptable weight limits, here are some tried-and-true tricks to handling the hills. First, try to "get a run at it" when you approach a hill. The more momentum (within safe limits) you have as you start up the hill, the better. This is a trick used for years by commercial truckers. If you use this trick, pay attention to the local speed limits and your speed. Its a lot better (and less expensive) to downshift going up a hill than to pay a speeding ticket! Getting a run at hills probably won't improve gas mileage because you'll use more gas accelerating as you approach the hill anyway, but it can get you over them easier without slowing traffic behind you as badly, delaying your travel, or lugging the engine and putting unnecessary strain on the drive train.
Next, don't "lug" the engine. This puts extra stress on internal components, reduces fuel economy, and slows you down. If your vehicle as a Tow/Haul option be sure to engage it for climbing and descending hills. If your vehicle has an Overdrive feature that can be disabled, do so for climbing and descending hills. If the engine is lugging, downshift to a lower gear. When downshifting, keep an eye (or an ear) on the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine, which can be catastrophic! Also carefully watch the engine temperature gauge and pull over if your vehicle begins to overheat. Turn off the automotive air conditioner as you approach a steep hill or a long grade. You will often see signs alongside the highway to remind you to do this as you approach a long or steep grade. Don't ignore them! They're not just a ploy to make you hot and want to buy cold drinks at the next convenience store. Turning off your A/C reduces the load on the engine and eliminates the extra heat from the A/C condensor in front of the radiator. An old time trick to increase cooling capacity when climbing hills is to turn on the heater. Yeah, it won't be comfortable, but the heater core is actually little radiator that will help a little bit in reducing coolant temperature. The heat that comes into the passenger compartment is heat removed from the engine's cooling system. When listening to your engine RPMs, be aware that many RVs have a temperature controlled fan clutch on the radiator. The fan spins freely until the engine gets hot to conserve fuel, then the clutch engages to drive the fan to cool the radiator when the engine gets hot. When the fan kicks in it is usually noisy and may sound like the transmission has downshifted. If your vehicle doesn't have a tachometer to display RPM, one can usually be added and they're not terribly expensive. Could be a good investment toward avoiding catastrophic and expensive repairs. Another useful gauge on some vehicles is transmission temperature gauge. If your vehicle is equipped with one, pay attention to it and pull over before it gets to the high end of the scale. If you don't have a transmission temperature gauge, you may be able to add an aftermarket gauge. It can be a little pricey, but a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing a burned up transmission. When components inside the transmission begin slipping the friction generates a lot heat, which puts even more stress on components and reduces the proper functioning of transmission fluid. It becomes a vicious cycle in which the worse it gets, the faster it gets worse.
Don't hold up traffic! Try to maintain your speed on hills. Sometimes you won't be able to maintain speed climbing a hill with a big motorhome or towing a trailer. When this happens, do your best to keep out of the way of other vehicles. Keep as far to the right as practical. Use the "truck lane". And take advantage of turn-outs to allow traffic to pass you. Impeding traffic more than discourteous: it is dangerous and illegal. In California, for example, you are required by law to pull over if there are more than 4 vehicles behind you. Unfortunately, many drivers either don't know or don't care about this requirement. Because it is difficult to get going again on a steep hill, many drivers of large vehicle use that as an excuse not to pull over. However, not only is it inconsiderate of other drivers, it often creates a safety hazard. It is SO much better to incur the inconvenience of restarting on a hill than to cause an accident. Many times you will be able to find a place to pull over where it won't be all that difficult getting going again.
If you climb a hill, eventually you'll be coming back down, perhaps on the other side or on your return trip. A heavy RV responds very well to gravity and you may quickly find yourself traveling faster than is legal, comfortable for the driver, or safe if you don't manage your downhill speed. DO NOT RIDE THE BRAKES! Using the brakes constantly will cause rapid wear and will also to cause them to overheat and once they've overheated they become useless. Even before reaching that stage, excessive use will cause glazing that reduces the friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors, seriously reducing stopping power. Keep in mind, brakes work by converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into heat due to the friction between the brake pads or shoes and the rotors or drums. When the capacity of the shoes or pads to absorb heat is reached, they stop working. Heat builds up in the rotors or drums, causing them to warp. Once again you may be able to downshift and let the engine help hold you back. This works well on gasoline engines and on diesels with engine or "Jake" brakes, but is not very effective on other diesels. Just watch the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine when you drop down a gear or two. Also be aware of local noise restrictions that prohibit the use of "engine brakes".
If downshifting doesn't hold your speed within acceptable parameters, use the brakes to slow to about 10 MPH below your target speed, then let off the brakes until the vehicle reaches about 10 MPH above the desired speed. Then apply the brakes again and repeat this procedure until you are off the hill. The time between brake applications helps allow the brakes to cool and maintain effectiveness. This is much better than riding the brakes to try in vain to maintain a constant desired speed.
Of course, it is advisable to avoid unusually steep or long grades whenever you can. So check your route before you leave home and try to select destinations and routes that won't put unusual stress on your vehicle or you! Along that line, you will want to make sure you don't get into a situation where your vehicle is too big for the available road and you have no place to turn around! So PLAN AHEAD! Sometimes the only way to reach a chosen destination includes climbing a difficult hill. If you've had problems with your vehicle overheating, try to plan your trip so you encounter the hill during during a cooler part of the day or during the night.
Auxiliary cooling systems might be used to keep radiators cool on heavy rigs on steep grades. The one I've found very effective and fairly inexpensive is to install a way to spray water on the front of the radiator. You can sometimes make one using and old windshield washer system from a junk yard. The water evaporates and helps cool the radiator. I've seen water injection used on carburated engines. These water injection systems were originally intended to help clean carbon inside the heads and cylinders but drivers discovered they could also improve mileage and reduce engine temperature slightly. Make sure the factory fan (and fan clutch, if so equipped) and belts and water pump are in good condition. Many newer vehicles have electrically operated fans that are controlled by a thermostat. Make sure your wiring and connectors are all in good condition.
When we had engine problems with the pickup truck pulling our enclosed motorcycle trailer up a particularly nasty hill, we stopped and unloaded the motorcycles and rode them to the top of the hill to reduce the weight in the trailer. Since each bike weights somewhere around 300 lbs, it made a big difference to offload 3 or 4 bikes. We were in a very remote area where riding dirt bikes on the paved road wasn't likely to be a problem even though it was technically illegal. You wouldn't want to try this on a freeway or a major highway. Another time we switched the trailer from the truck to the motorhome until we reached the top of the hill.
I think I can! I think I can!
One of the key factors is to not overload your vehicle. Be aware of the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your motorhome and the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (CVWR) any vehicle towing a trailer. Exceeding the weight capacity puts extra strain on the drive train components and especially brakes and tires, affecting safety and handling as well as longevity. Weigh your vehicle(s) at a truck scale, and, if you find you're overweight, reduce the load before you permanently damage your equipment or have a serious accident! Since water is pretty heavy, you can often reduce load by keeping your holding tanks empty and by reducing how much fresh water you are carrying. If you are headed out to boondock in a remote area, you want your fresh water tank full when you get there, but if you're headed to a campground with hookups, or even one where you can refill your water tank easily nearby, don't fill your fresh water tank more than about 1/4 full on the road -- just enough to meet your needs while en route. Unfortunately, many motorhomes come from the factory with little extra capacity for cargo. Often they are close to being over weight even before you include water and passengers so it is really easy to exceed the weight ratings. If you find yourself in that situation about all you can besides limiting what you carry around, is to buy a motorhome with greater weight ratings. Although you might be able to upgrade springs and shocks so solve some ride issues, it really isn't practical to increase the weight ratings, which take into account many factors which are basic elements of the vehicle design. While tires and springs are often the most affected by load, there are many other factors to consider, including other parts including suspension, the frame, engine, transmission, and differential which could limit the maximum weight.
There are serious consequences to attempting a hill that is too steep or too long for your vehicle. Pay attention to your vehicle. If the engine temperature starts to climb or if you feel the transmission start to slip or it begins to blow smoke, pull over before you permanently damage your engine or transmission. Repairs can be VERY costly! A lot more costly than having your RV towed to safety and repaired before major damage occurs. Of course you will have checked all the critical components at the beginning of your trip so you have confidence in your equipment when you start climbing steep hills. Remember, check all belts and hoses before each trip. Check tire pressure every day before driving. Check oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels frequently. These routine maintenance procedures can save your trip, your vehicle, and your wallet!
If you are within acceptable weight limits, here are some tried-and-true tricks to handling the hills. First, try to "get a run at it" when you approach a hill. The more momentum (within safe limits) you have as you start up the hill, the better. This is a trick used for years by commercial truckers. If you use this trick, pay attention to the local speed limits and your speed. Its a lot better (and less expensive) to downshift going up a hill than to pay a speeding ticket! Getting a run at hills probably won't improve gas mileage because you'll use more gas accelerating as you approach the hill anyway, but it can get you over them easier without slowing traffic behind you as badly, delaying your travel, or lugging the engine and putting unnecessary strain on the drive train.
Next, don't "lug" the engine. This puts extra stress on internal components, reduces fuel economy, and slows you down. If your vehicle as a Tow/Haul option be sure to engage it for climbing and descending hills. If your vehicle has an Overdrive feature that can be disabled, do so for climbing and descending hills. If the engine is lugging, downshift to a lower gear. When downshifting, keep an eye (or an ear) on the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine, which can be catastrophic! Also carefully watch the engine temperature gauge and pull over if your vehicle begins to overheat. Turn off the automotive air conditioner as you approach a steep hill or a long grade. You will often see signs alongside the highway to remind you to do this as you approach a long or steep grade. Don't ignore them! They're not just a ploy to make you hot and want to buy cold drinks at the next convenience store. Turning off your A/C reduces the load on the engine and eliminates the extra heat from the A/C condensor in front of the radiator. An old time trick to increase cooling capacity when climbing hills is to turn on the heater. Yeah, it won't be comfortable, but the heater core is actually little radiator that will help a little bit in reducing coolant temperature. The heat that comes into the passenger compartment is heat removed from the engine's cooling system. When listening to your engine RPMs, be aware that many RVs have a temperature controlled fan clutch on the radiator. The fan spins freely until the engine gets hot to conserve fuel, then the clutch engages to drive the fan to cool the radiator when the engine gets hot. When the fan kicks in it is usually noisy and may sound like the transmission has downshifted. If your vehicle doesn't have a tachometer to display RPM, one can usually be added and they're not terribly expensive. Could be a good investment toward avoiding catastrophic and expensive repairs. Another useful gauge on some vehicles is transmission temperature gauge. If your vehicle is equipped with one, pay attention to it and pull over before it gets to the high end of the scale. If you don't have a transmission temperature gauge, you may be able to add an aftermarket gauge. It can be a little pricey, but a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing a burned up transmission. When components inside the transmission begin slipping the friction generates a lot heat, which puts even more stress on components and reduces the proper functioning of transmission fluid. It becomes a vicious cycle in which the worse it gets, the faster it gets worse.
Don't hold up traffic! Try to maintain your speed on hills. Sometimes you won't be able to maintain speed climbing a hill with a big motorhome or towing a trailer. When this happens, do your best to keep out of the way of other vehicles. Keep as far to the right as practical. Use the "truck lane". And take advantage of turn-outs to allow traffic to pass you. Impeding traffic more than discourteous: it is dangerous and illegal. In California, for example, you are required by law to pull over if there are more than 4 vehicles behind you. Unfortunately, many drivers either don't know or don't care about this requirement. Because it is difficult to get going again on a steep hill, many drivers of large vehicle use that as an excuse not to pull over. However, not only is it inconsiderate of other drivers, it often creates a safety hazard. It is SO much better to incur the inconvenience of restarting on a hill than to cause an accident. Many times you will be able to find a place to pull over where it won't be all that difficult getting going again.
If you climb a hill, eventually you'll be coming back down, perhaps on the other side or on your return trip. A heavy RV responds very well to gravity and you may quickly find yourself traveling faster than is legal, comfortable for the driver, or safe if you don't manage your downhill speed. DO NOT RIDE THE BRAKES! Using the brakes constantly will cause rapid wear and will also to cause them to overheat and once they've overheated they become useless. Even before reaching that stage, excessive use will cause glazing that reduces the friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors, seriously reducing stopping power. Keep in mind, brakes work by converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into heat due to the friction between the brake pads or shoes and the rotors or drums. When the capacity of the shoes or pads to absorb heat is reached, they stop working. Heat builds up in the rotors or drums, causing them to warp. Once again you may be able to downshift and let the engine help hold you back. This works well on gasoline engines and on diesels with engine or "Jake" brakes, but is not very effective on other diesels. Just watch the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine when you drop down a gear or two. Also be aware of local noise restrictions that prohibit the use of "engine brakes".
If downshifting doesn't hold your speed within acceptable parameters, use the brakes to slow to about 10 MPH below your target speed, then let off the brakes until the vehicle reaches about 10 MPH above the desired speed. Then apply the brakes again and repeat this procedure until you are off the hill. The time between brake applications helps allow the brakes to cool and maintain effectiveness. This is much better than riding the brakes to try in vain to maintain a constant desired speed.
Of course, it is advisable to avoid unusually steep or long grades whenever you can. So check your route before you leave home and try to select destinations and routes that won't put unusual stress on your vehicle or you! Along that line, you will want to make sure you don't get into a situation where your vehicle is too big for the available road and you have no place to turn around! So PLAN AHEAD! Sometimes the only way to reach a chosen destination includes climbing a difficult hill. If you've had problems with your vehicle overheating, try to plan your trip so you encounter the hill during during a cooler part of the day or during the night.
Auxiliary cooling systems might be used to keep radiators cool on heavy rigs on steep grades. The one I've found very effective and fairly inexpensive is to install a way to spray water on the front of the radiator. You can sometimes make one using and old windshield washer system from a junk yard. The water evaporates and helps cool the radiator. I've seen water injection used on carburated engines. These water injection systems were originally intended to help clean carbon inside the heads and cylinders but drivers discovered they could also improve mileage and reduce engine temperature slightly. Make sure the factory fan (and fan clutch, if so equipped) and belts and water pump are in good condition. Many newer vehicles have electrically operated fans that are controlled by a thermostat. Make sure your wiring and connectors are all in good condition.
When we had engine problems with the pickup truck pulling our enclosed motorcycle trailer up a particularly nasty hill, we stopped and unloaded the motorcycles and rode them to the top of the hill to reduce the weight in the trailer. Since each bike weights somewhere around 300 lbs, it made a big difference to offload 3 or 4 bikes. We were in a very remote area where riding dirt bikes on the paved road wasn't likely to be a problem even though it was technically illegal. You wouldn't want to try this on a freeway or a major highway. Another time we switched the trailer from the truck to the motorhome until we reached the top of the hill.
I think I can! I think I can!
Transporting your OHVs
In a previous post [Toy Haulers or Sport Utility Recreational Vehicles (SURVs)] we talked briefly about toy haulers, a great way to transport your OHVs. But that is by far not the only option. And it is certainly not the least expensive! When we first started out dirt biking, we mounted simple "basket" carriers on the front and rear bumpers of our Class C motorhome and lifted the dirt bikes into the carriers. Not the easiest or the most convenient option, but one of the least expensive and the load carrying capacity is limited. Many riders haul their toys in the back of a pickup truck. My daughter used her little S-10 pickup to haul her bike to her races. With the addition of a truck tent and it little camping gear it was also her home at the track. One of my dirt bike mentors hauled his bikes in a full size pickup and pulled a 23' travel trailer behind it. Not a bad option and it fit his family of 4 perfectly. There are also racks that slide into a Class III hitch receiver that can carry one or two dirt bikes or one ATV behind any vehicle with a suitable hitch. It is definitely easier to load a bike onto one of these racks (you can improvise a ramp if it doesn't have one) than lifting them into the basket carriers. Not having a trailer makes negotiating service stations and supermarket parking lots easier, but limits the size, weight, and number of vehicles and amount of tools, supplies, and gear you can carry. As the number of riders in our family outgrew two dirt bikes, we graduated to pulling a trailer. Our first "motorcycle" trailer had begun life as a Nimrod tent trailer. Everything that once made it a tent trailer was long gone. All that remained was the floor, running gear, and the 18" steel walls so it resembled a common utility trailer. The rear wall had been cut out and replaced with a hinged expanded metal ramp for loading the bikes. Eventually our family of 8 outgrew even that and by then we wanted an enclosed trailer so we'd have some place to get the bikes in out of the weather when they needed repairs during an outing and a place to store tools, spare parts, and riding gear that had grown to exceed the capacity of the footlocker in the front of the little trailer. For a while we towed an old construction office trailer that hauled 8 bikes and all our tools, spare parts, and gear, and served as a motorcycle shed at home. It did the job and the only real problem with this solution was it was BIG and HEAVY and UGLY. . It was like towing around a huge anchor all the time! It only cost a few hundred bucks, so it wasn't a big investment, but it sure affected the performance and mileage of our motorhome! I was able to lighten the load a little by removing two or three layers of asphalt tile from the floor and replacing it with vinyl sheeting. Somewhere along the line we acquired a little 4-rail trailer that would haul 4 dirt bikes. It would suffice for short outings when only part of the family was able to go and for ferrying a few bikes back and forth to the shop. With a family of 8 we soon needed more sleeping space too. Eventually we bought our first Smuggler. Even though it was only a 16 footer, it served our family well for many years, hauling bikes and tools and spare parts and gear and providing additional sleeping capacity once we got to camp. It was outfitted much like a low-end truck camper, with a sink, icebox, and stove, and sofa beds, but no sanitary facilities and no furnace. For several years we heated it with a Coleman catalytic tent heater. If you choose to use a catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation. They don't give off toxic fumes, but they do consume oxygen and you can suffocate if you share an enclosed space with one for too long. Eventually I picked up a furnace out of a truck camper in a junk yard and installed it. Because it came with a stove/oven, it already a propane tank. The furnace was a lot more convenient and efficient to use than the catalytic heater and made the trailer very comfortable on cold nights. Sometimes we even fired it up on cold days so we'd have a warm place to change in and out of our riding gear. I don't like to change in the motorhome because the latches on riding boots tend to scratch cabinets and tear upholstery and riding gear gets pretty dirty, something that is all too easily transferred to carpets and upholstery. Not only did the Smuggler haul our dirt bikes in it, it provided permanent storage for all of our gear, supplies, tools, and spare parts -- and made comfortable bedroom for 2-4 of the kids in camp. After several years of faithful service from the 16 footer, I found a 20' Smuggler. It was very similar to the 16 footer, but it came from the factory with a furnace, a shower, a gas refrigerator, and a hot water heater so it enhanced our extended living space for our dirt bike trips and made the boys more comfortable. The extra propane and water were a boon on extended desert outings. It didn't have a toilet or built in holding tanks but with the addition of a porta-potty, it was self-contained enough for limited outings for part of our family without having to drive the big motorhome. It towed easily behind our 3/4" ton pickup.
Utility trailers may be a fairly inexpensive way to transport your toys -- and you may be able to use them for other things as well. Some utility trailers are made from the bed of a pickup truck. Another popular option are flatbed "landscape" trailers, originally designed to haul riding lawn mowers etc. Just be sure to tie down your OHVs securely so they don't shift or fall off during travel. And be sure to purchase one of sufficient load capacity to handle the weight of your toys. If you opt for an open trailer you will need a footlocker or other closed container to haul your riding gear -- or keep it in your tow vehicle. I've seen people add a canopy to their flatbeds in camp to turn them into portable shaded patios in camp.
One fairly inexpensive and light weight option for a single motocycle is a trailer hitch mount carrier that holds the front wheel. You need only lift the front wheel into the carrier so its pretty easy to use. However, the rear wheel of the motorcycle remains on the ground so it will wear the rear tire while towing the bike. Hitch mounts are a pretty good options for bringing a street bike along for local use, but running the knobbies on dirt bike tires on the pavement is going to cause a lot of premature wear.
A 3 or 4 rail motorcycle trailer provides a very light weight solution to hauling dirt bikes. The only drawback to this style of trailer is the lack of anyplace to carry fuel, tools, spare parts, and riding gear, although some are equipped with a cargo locker on the tongue that will accommodate some of your stuff. A lot of riders simply tie down their tool box, gas cans, and gear bags between the vehicles, but that, of course, leaves them exposed to weather and may invite people you routinely exercise the "five-finger discount" to make off with your stuff.
Enclosed trailers protect your equipment during transport and can be locked to secure your stuff in camp --or while you're shopping in Walmart along the way. Some people even use them to store their toys at home and they are usually a good place to keep riding gear, tools, and spare parts at home. I like taking the bikes out at home so I can move around freely in the trailer to clean and maintain riding gear, tools and other equipment. Having a weatherproof place to work on vehicles in camp is really nice. Nice way to make productive use of what could otherwise be down time during bad weather. Just getting up out of the dirt saves a lot of hassle, like looking for dropped fasteners or contaminating dropped parts in the dirt and having a place to work on them during bad weather is close to heavenly, especially if you've ever had to try to work on your ride(s) in the rain or wind!
Regardless of the style you choose, there are two major weight considerations you must address. First is the carrying capacity of the trailer. I once loaned my 3-rail trailer to someone to transport a large street bike and it came back with the loading ramp and one of the rails badly bent because the bike was way over the design limit for the trailer and the ramp. Check out the axle weight rating and the tire weight rating to be sure you don't overload your trailer. An overloaded trailer will likely damage the suspension and may create handling problems. Overloaded tires are likely to overheat, causing a blowout. The second weight to consider is the combined weight of the trailer and everything you load in or on it. Make sure you do not exceed the towing capacity or the Combined Gross Vehicle Rating (CGVR) for what you'll be towing it with. If you keep your load within the weight ratings for the trailer and for the tow vehicle you shouldn't have any towing problems. If you feel the trailer swaying behind your tow vehicle you might want to consider adding an anti-sway bar. They mount between the hitch on the vehicle and the tongue of the trailer and provide resistance to keep the trailer from swinging back and forth so easily.
Eventually I bought what has become our ultimate motorcycle trailer. It was custom built by an engineer and dirt bike enthusiast on a 5500 pound single axle. It was just a shell when I bought it, with a nice Kennedy toolbox and a counter across the front end. I added a sink, additional shelving, and closet rods to hang our gear. I wired it for convenient 12-volt and 120 volt lighting and outlets. Eventually I added a roof air conditioner (that can only be used when the trailer is plugged into a dedicated circuit I had to add to my motorhome to power it), vinyl tile floor, and an awning. I built special racks to hold the gas cans near the rear ramp door and installed a rack to hang tie downs when they aren't in use. I found a good way to keep our boots organized and keep them from drooping while in storage. I mounted some 6" spring clamps (found at hardware stores and home centers) and clip the back of the top of the boot in the clamp lifting the soles off the floor. The boots don't fold over and they stay put, even when the trailer is bounced around off-road. I use similar 3" clamps to hold my knee braces. I am a bit lazy and don't like pumping up tires with a manual tire pump so I added an air compressor and installed fittings at convenient locations inside and outside the trailer. Fellow riders have said it looks like a motorcycle shop on wheels! Building it and using it has been almost as much fun as riding and having tools and spare parts has saved more than one outing for my family and our riding companions.
There are many other ways to transport your OHVs. As mentioned before, one of my dirt bike mentors had a pickup truck and a 23' travel trailer. The bikes rode in the back of the truck and when he arrived in camp he unhitched the trailer and leveled it, then unloaded the bikes. Another rider and his wife had a camper on a 4x4 pickup and towed a small 3-rail trailer for many years before graduating to a 14" enclosed utility trailer. If you have ATVs you'll need a pickup truck or a flatbed trailer or enclosed utility trailer to haul them around. You might haul a single ATV or a couple of dirt bikes on a hitch-mounted rack. Enclosed trailers have both advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages is they protect from weather and prying eyes and theft while enroute and give you a cozy place to make repairs on your toys where you can be out of the wind and rain or sun and out of the dirt! And you can store your tools, gear, and spare parts in them at home so its all ready to go at a moment's notice. About the only downside is they are more expensive, heavier and often have more wind resistance than an open trailer, both of which can affect tow vehicle mileage and performance. Personally, I find the convenience well worth the impact on mileage and performance. Actually, I'm not sure the trailer has had much of an impact on my motorhome mileage, although I do sometimes notice a change in performance when climbing steep hills. My big Class A seems to be locked in at 7 mpg -- towing or solo, up hill, down hill, head winds, cross winds, sitting in a parking lot! Many people use a flatbed "landscape" utility trailer to haul dirt bikes and ATVs and snowmobiles. They are comparatively inexpensive and light weight. Two-, three-, or four-rail trailers are lightweight alternatives for hauling dirt bikes and some ATVs. However, I REALLY like having an enclosed trailer to organize and protect tools, gear, and spare parts and give me a place to work on the bikes in camp that is out of the weather and out of the dirt. I can keep all my gear, tools, and spare parts in the trailer so its ready to go without a lot of scrounging up stuff.
If you already have a big pickup or SUV with good towing capacity, purchasing a toy hauler or a travel trailer may be the most inexpensive way to get you and your toys to and from where you can ride and provide comfortable accommodations for you and your family. A toyhauler gives you both living space for you and garage space for hauling your OHVs, tools, and riding gear.
There are a few motorhomes that have a garage for toys, but they aren't as common as trailers and are quite expensive. If you come across one at a good price, it would be convenient, especially if you travel in states like California and Oregon that have a 55 miles speed limit for vehicles pulling trailers.
In some states it is legal to tow a trailer behind a trailer. In these locations you may see boats and/or motorcycle trailers being towed behind a travel trailer towed by a pickup or SUV. If your state does not permit double trailers, you can still put a rack on the back of your travel trailer to haul your toys. Just be careful to watch the hitch weight. Hanging too much weight on the back of a trailer can make the tongue weight dangerously light, affecting handling and safety. If you run into this problem, but still have towing capacity and hauling capacity in your trailer, try loading the trailer heavy in the front to compensate for the toys on the back. In some states a non-articulated trailer is considered part of the vehicle it is attached to and not a second trailer. I've seen non-articulated, one-wheel trailers adapted to haul motorcycles attached to the back of travel trailers even in California, where towing multiple trailers is prohibited. The front of the one wheel trailer is attached in two places so it functions like an extension of the larger trailer rather than a separate trailer.
I have seen devices that slide into the hitch receiver and hold the front wheel of motorcycle and leave the rear wheel on the road. These off-load a lot of the weight that hauling them on a rack with both wheels off the ground if your vehicle has limited towing capacity and hitch weight restrictions, but you'll put a lot of miles on that rear tire -- and off-road tires don't typically stand up well to a lot of pavement and high speed and may be illegal in some places. These are usually used to transport big street bikes rather than off-road machines.
Motorcycles pulling motorcycles? I've even seen guys rig up a way to tow their dirt bikes behind their street bikes on a small single-rail trailer or loaded on top of one of those little fiberglass motorcycle trailers. I think if I were in that situation I might opt for a dual sport bike I could ride on the street and in the dirt instead of having two bikes to maintain. But many people prefer keeping them separate as dual sports tend to be a compromise that aren't as good on the highway as road bikes and not as good on the trails as dirt bikes. Still, unless you're in professional competition, dual sport bikes are usually good enough for most people.
Be sure to check out what other riders are doing. You will learn some neat tricks for hauling your toys and stuff and get some idea of what will be the best solution for you. Many of the ideas I eventually incorporated into my current dirt bike trailer and my motorhome came from what I saw other riders doing. For example, a fellow-rider had built an ice-chest into the seating in his trailer. I found an ice chest that would fit into unused space under the seat in the dinette in my motorhome. Now we have extra capacity for cold drinks -- always a useful and welcome thing for desert dirt bike outings in the summertime! Fixed chocks secure the front wheels of dirt bikes for secure travel, but they consume otherwise usable floor space and become trip hazards when not in use. Removable chocks are a bit more expensive than their fixed counterparts, but are well worth it. Most are made of steel tubing and slide into special mounts installed in the floor. I found some that are made of steel channels that fold down flat into the floor of my dirt bike trailer and open up to the correct angle to hold the front tires and provide a slot for the tires to drop into when in used. Before I found those, I made my own home-made removable chocks by mounting the fixed part of door chain locks on the floor and mounting the right size, large-head screws into the bottom of inexpensive plastic automobile wheel chocks. When I needed the chocks, I just slid them into the floor mounts. In camp I could remove them and store them out of the way. I liked the way one creative rider used his loading ramp vertically, to keep the rear wheel of his dirt bike secure in his trailer. It attached to fixed mounts on the floor and ceiling with the channel cradling the back of the rear tire.
Flooring options. If you have an enclosed motorcycle trailer, you have several choices for flooring. When I bought my current trailer, the floor was unfinished plywood. I painted the plywood floor of my trailer with garage floor paint. A few years later I covered it with black and white checkered vinyl tile. Solid vinyl or linoleum sheet goods would be more durable. Spilled fuel or lubricants can seep through the seams of tile and loosen the adhesive. Since both the painted wooden floor and the vinyl tile tend to be quite cold to stand on when changing in and out of riding gear, I picked up an area rug that closely fits the open floor space so we have a soft, warm place to stand while changing. When it comes time to load the bikes, we roll up the rug and stow in on top of one of the fender wells and secure it to the wall with bungee cords. You may find just using a small accent rug or a bath mat gives you a place to stand and takes up less room. Bath mats are usually very soft and have a non-skid backing so they are ideal -- and inexpensive. When they get dirty, you can just throw them in the washing machine. You might also toss them in your gear bag so you can use them if you're going out without your trailer.
Fuel storage. For any type of off highway vehicles you will need to transport fuel. This is usually done using plastic gas cans or traditional "gerry" cans. I like the plastic "motocross" style gas cans. They are square and don't tip as easily as the narrow oblong "gerry" cans. I prefer the translucent ones so I can see the fuel level inside. Some fancy toy haulers have built in gas tanks to fuel the generator AND provide fuel for your toys, with a nozzle that works kind of like pumping gas at the gas station. Another option is a gravity fuel system where the tank is mounted on the roof or ceiling. I built gas can racks onto the floor of my motorcycle trailer just inside the rear ramp door. The cans don't slide around or tip over and they are conveniently located for filling and for use. The racks are made of 2x4s on edge screwed up through the floor. I put an eye bolt on each end and thread a tie down through the handles on the gas cans for extra security. I would prefer to carry fuel outside, but keeping the gas cans properly closed and secured so they don't tip over doesn't present any more risk than the fuel in the tanks of the dirt bikes. You should always make sure your enclosed trailer is well ventilated so any fuel escaping from gas tanks or fuel containers doesn't create a problem. A good place to transport gas cans is on the tongue or on a rack attached to the back bumper. Both of these locations place the fuel outside where fumes won't accumulate, but it does leave them more susceptible to theft. Even if your cans are securely locked someone might siphon out your expensive fuel. If you do carry your fuel inside your toy hauler, make sure you have adequate ventilation. I always leave the windows and roof vent open an inch or so to get some cross ventilation. Gasoline fumes are extremely volatile! Liquid fuel is pretty stable. I've seen demonstrations where a match was thrown into an open 1-gallon can filled with gas and the match went out. Do the same with only an inch of liquid fuel in the bottom and the upper part will be filled with fumes and you'll get a rather spectacular explosion! You definitely don't want your trailer to fill up with fumes! Open the roof vent an inch or two and leave at least one window open a little to provide cross ventilation to draw out any fumes from gas cans or the fuel tanks on your vehicles.
Other types of OHVs, like jet skies and snowmobiles, will have different transportation needs. Jet skis will need to be on a submersible trailer so you can launch them into the water. Enclosed trailers are not usually good options for jet skis. Snowmobile trailers often have pointed front ends with doors in the side of the point to allow the snowmobiles to be driven out instead of having to be backed out. Unlike ATVs, which are often loaded tilted back at an angle with their front wheels off the floor to get more vehicles in less floor space or dirt bikes that can be loaded very close to each other, snowmobiles require a lot of flat floor space. If you have sufficient room, a snowmobile trailer can be set up much like a dirt bike trailer to haul your tools, spare parts, and riding gear. Given the climate for snowmobiling you might want to add a furnace or propane heater to make the trailer more comfortable for working on your machines or just changing in and out of your snowmobile riding gear. Because a water tank will freeze, you probably won't want to install a water system in a snowmobile trailer. If you use the same trailer for summer outings and do have a water system be sure to drain it and properly winterize the system before freezing weather sets in or install some kind of heating system to prevent it from freezing. There are thermostatically controlled tank heating pads that run on both 120-volt ac and 12-volt dc current.
Happy hauling!
Utility trailers may be a fairly inexpensive way to transport your toys -- and you may be able to use them for other things as well. Some utility trailers are made from the bed of a pickup truck. Another popular option are flatbed "landscape" trailers, originally designed to haul riding lawn mowers etc. Just be sure to tie down your OHVs securely so they don't shift or fall off during travel. And be sure to purchase one of sufficient load capacity to handle the weight of your toys. If you opt for an open trailer you will need a footlocker or other closed container to haul your riding gear -- or keep it in your tow vehicle. I've seen people add a canopy to their flatbeds in camp to turn them into portable shaded patios in camp.
One fairly inexpensive and light weight option for a single motocycle is a trailer hitch mount carrier that holds the front wheel. You need only lift the front wheel into the carrier so its pretty easy to use. However, the rear wheel of the motorcycle remains on the ground so it will wear the rear tire while towing the bike. Hitch mounts are a pretty good options for bringing a street bike along for local use, but running the knobbies on dirt bike tires on the pavement is going to cause a lot of premature wear.
A 3 or 4 rail motorcycle trailer provides a very light weight solution to hauling dirt bikes. The only drawback to this style of trailer is the lack of anyplace to carry fuel, tools, spare parts, and riding gear, although some are equipped with a cargo locker on the tongue that will accommodate some of your stuff. A lot of riders simply tie down their tool box, gas cans, and gear bags between the vehicles, but that, of course, leaves them exposed to weather and may invite people you routinely exercise the "five-finger discount" to make off with your stuff.
Enclosed trailers protect your equipment during transport and can be locked to secure your stuff in camp --or while you're shopping in Walmart along the way. Some people even use them to store their toys at home and they are usually a good place to keep riding gear, tools, and spare parts at home. I like taking the bikes out at home so I can move around freely in the trailer to clean and maintain riding gear, tools and other equipment. Having a weatherproof place to work on vehicles in camp is really nice. Nice way to make productive use of what could otherwise be down time during bad weather. Just getting up out of the dirt saves a lot of hassle, like looking for dropped fasteners or contaminating dropped parts in the dirt and having a place to work on them during bad weather is close to heavenly, especially if you've ever had to try to work on your ride(s) in the rain or wind!
Regardless of the style you choose, there are two major weight considerations you must address. First is the carrying capacity of the trailer. I once loaned my 3-rail trailer to someone to transport a large street bike and it came back with the loading ramp and one of the rails badly bent because the bike was way over the design limit for the trailer and the ramp. Check out the axle weight rating and the tire weight rating to be sure you don't overload your trailer. An overloaded trailer will likely damage the suspension and may create handling problems. Overloaded tires are likely to overheat, causing a blowout. The second weight to consider is the combined weight of the trailer and everything you load in or on it. Make sure you do not exceed the towing capacity or the Combined Gross Vehicle Rating (CGVR) for what you'll be towing it with. If you keep your load within the weight ratings for the trailer and for the tow vehicle you shouldn't have any towing problems. If you feel the trailer swaying behind your tow vehicle you might want to consider adding an anti-sway bar. They mount between the hitch on the vehicle and the tongue of the trailer and provide resistance to keep the trailer from swinging back and forth so easily.
Eventually I bought what has become our ultimate motorcycle trailer. It was custom built by an engineer and dirt bike enthusiast on a 5500 pound single axle. It was just a shell when I bought it, with a nice Kennedy toolbox and a counter across the front end. I added a sink, additional shelving, and closet rods to hang our gear. I wired it for convenient 12-volt and 120 volt lighting and outlets. Eventually I added a roof air conditioner (that can only be used when the trailer is plugged into a dedicated circuit I had to add to my motorhome to power it), vinyl tile floor, and an awning. I built special racks to hold the gas cans near the rear ramp door and installed a rack to hang tie downs when they aren't in use. I found a good way to keep our boots organized and keep them from drooping while in storage. I mounted some 6" spring clamps (found at hardware stores and home centers) and clip the back of the top of the boot in the clamp lifting the soles off the floor. The boots don't fold over and they stay put, even when the trailer is bounced around off-road. I use similar 3" clamps to hold my knee braces. I am a bit lazy and don't like pumping up tires with a manual tire pump so I added an air compressor and installed fittings at convenient locations inside and outside the trailer. Fellow riders have said it looks like a motorcycle shop on wheels! Building it and using it has been almost as much fun as riding and having tools and spare parts has saved more than one outing for my family and our riding companions.
There are many other ways to transport your OHVs. As mentioned before, one of my dirt bike mentors had a pickup truck and a 23' travel trailer. The bikes rode in the back of the truck and when he arrived in camp he unhitched the trailer and leveled it, then unloaded the bikes. Another rider and his wife had a camper on a 4x4 pickup and towed a small 3-rail trailer for many years before graduating to a 14" enclosed utility trailer. If you have ATVs you'll need a pickup truck or a flatbed trailer or enclosed utility trailer to haul them around. You might haul a single ATV or a couple of dirt bikes on a hitch-mounted rack. Enclosed trailers have both advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages is they protect from weather and prying eyes and theft while enroute and give you a cozy place to make repairs on your toys where you can be out of the wind and rain or sun and out of the dirt! And you can store your tools, gear, and spare parts in them at home so its all ready to go at a moment's notice. About the only downside is they are more expensive, heavier and often have more wind resistance than an open trailer, both of which can affect tow vehicle mileage and performance. Personally, I find the convenience well worth the impact on mileage and performance. Actually, I'm not sure the trailer has had much of an impact on my motorhome mileage, although I do sometimes notice a change in performance when climbing steep hills. My big Class A seems to be locked in at 7 mpg -- towing or solo, up hill, down hill, head winds, cross winds, sitting in a parking lot! Many people use a flatbed "landscape" utility trailer to haul dirt bikes and ATVs and snowmobiles. They are comparatively inexpensive and light weight. Two-, three-, or four-rail trailers are lightweight alternatives for hauling dirt bikes and some ATVs. However, I REALLY like having an enclosed trailer to organize and protect tools, gear, and spare parts and give me a place to work on the bikes in camp that is out of the weather and out of the dirt. I can keep all my gear, tools, and spare parts in the trailer so its ready to go without a lot of scrounging up stuff.
If you already have a big pickup or SUV with good towing capacity, purchasing a toy hauler or a travel trailer may be the most inexpensive way to get you and your toys to and from where you can ride and provide comfortable accommodations for you and your family. A toyhauler gives you both living space for you and garage space for hauling your OHVs, tools, and riding gear.
There are a few motorhomes that have a garage for toys, but they aren't as common as trailers and are quite expensive. If you come across one at a good price, it would be convenient, especially if you travel in states like California and Oregon that have a 55 miles speed limit for vehicles pulling trailers.
In some states it is legal to tow a trailer behind a trailer. In these locations you may see boats and/or motorcycle trailers being towed behind a travel trailer towed by a pickup or SUV. If your state does not permit double trailers, you can still put a rack on the back of your travel trailer to haul your toys. Just be careful to watch the hitch weight. Hanging too much weight on the back of a trailer can make the tongue weight dangerously light, affecting handling and safety. If you run into this problem, but still have towing capacity and hauling capacity in your trailer, try loading the trailer heavy in the front to compensate for the toys on the back. In some states a non-articulated trailer is considered part of the vehicle it is attached to and not a second trailer. I've seen non-articulated, one-wheel trailers adapted to haul motorcycles attached to the back of travel trailers even in California, where towing multiple trailers is prohibited. The front of the one wheel trailer is attached in two places so it functions like an extension of the larger trailer rather than a separate trailer.
I have seen devices that slide into the hitch receiver and hold the front wheel of motorcycle and leave the rear wheel on the road. These off-load a lot of the weight that hauling them on a rack with both wheels off the ground if your vehicle has limited towing capacity and hitch weight restrictions, but you'll put a lot of miles on that rear tire -- and off-road tires don't typically stand up well to a lot of pavement and high speed and may be illegal in some places. These are usually used to transport big street bikes rather than off-road machines.
Motorcycles pulling motorcycles? I've even seen guys rig up a way to tow their dirt bikes behind their street bikes on a small single-rail trailer or loaded on top of one of those little fiberglass motorcycle trailers. I think if I were in that situation I might opt for a dual sport bike I could ride on the street and in the dirt instead of having two bikes to maintain. But many people prefer keeping them separate as dual sports tend to be a compromise that aren't as good on the highway as road bikes and not as good on the trails as dirt bikes. Still, unless you're in professional competition, dual sport bikes are usually good enough for most people.
Be sure to check out what other riders are doing. You will learn some neat tricks for hauling your toys and stuff and get some idea of what will be the best solution for you. Many of the ideas I eventually incorporated into my current dirt bike trailer and my motorhome came from what I saw other riders doing. For example, a fellow-rider had built an ice-chest into the seating in his trailer. I found an ice chest that would fit into unused space under the seat in the dinette in my motorhome. Now we have extra capacity for cold drinks -- always a useful and welcome thing for desert dirt bike outings in the summertime! Fixed chocks secure the front wheels of dirt bikes for secure travel, but they consume otherwise usable floor space and become trip hazards when not in use. Removable chocks are a bit more expensive than their fixed counterparts, but are well worth it. Most are made of steel tubing and slide into special mounts installed in the floor. I found some that are made of steel channels that fold down flat into the floor of my dirt bike trailer and open up to the correct angle to hold the front tires and provide a slot for the tires to drop into when in used. Before I found those, I made my own home-made removable chocks by mounting the fixed part of door chain locks on the floor and mounting the right size, large-head screws into the bottom of inexpensive plastic automobile wheel chocks. When I needed the chocks, I just slid them into the floor mounts. In camp I could remove them and store them out of the way. I liked the way one creative rider used his loading ramp vertically, to keep the rear wheel of his dirt bike secure in his trailer. It attached to fixed mounts on the floor and ceiling with the channel cradling the back of the rear tire.
Flooring options. If you have an enclosed motorcycle trailer, you have several choices for flooring. When I bought my current trailer, the floor was unfinished plywood. I painted the plywood floor of my trailer with garage floor paint. A few years later I covered it with black and white checkered vinyl tile. Solid vinyl or linoleum sheet goods would be more durable. Spilled fuel or lubricants can seep through the seams of tile and loosen the adhesive. Since both the painted wooden floor and the vinyl tile tend to be quite cold to stand on when changing in and out of riding gear, I picked up an area rug that closely fits the open floor space so we have a soft, warm place to stand while changing. When it comes time to load the bikes, we roll up the rug and stow in on top of one of the fender wells and secure it to the wall with bungee cords. You may find just using a small accent rug or a bath mat gives you a place to stand and takes up less room. Bath mats are usually very soft and have a non-skid backing so they are ideal -- and inexpensive. When they get dirty, you can just throw them in the washing machine. You might also toss them in your gear bag so you can use them if you're going out without your trailer.
Fuel storage. For any type of off highway vehicles you will need to transport fuel. This is usually done using plastic gas cans or traditional "gerry" cans. I like the plastic "motocross" style gas cans. They are square and don't tip as easily as the narrow oblong "gerry" cans. I prefer the translucent ones so I can see the fuel level inside. Some fancy toy haulers have built in gas tanks to fuel the generator AND provide fuel for your toys, with a nozzle that works kind of like pumping gas at the gas station. Another option is a gravity fuel system where the tank is mounted on the roof or ceiling. I built gas can racks onto the floor of my motorcycle trailer just inside the rear ramp door. The cans don't slide around or tip over and they are conveniently located for filling and for use. The racks are made of 2x4s on edge screwed up through the floor. I put an eye bolt on each end and thread a tie down through the handles on the gas cans for extra security. I would prefer to carry fuel outside, but keeping the gas cans properly closed and secured so they don't tip over doesn't present any more risk than the fuel in the tanks of the dirt bikes. You should always make sure your enclosed trailer is well ventilated so any fuel escaping from gas tanks or fuel containers doesn't create a problem. A good place to transport gas cans is on the tongue or on a rack attached to the back bumper. Both of these locations place the fuel outside where fumes won't accumulate, but it does leave them more susceptible to theft. Even if your cans are securely locked someone might siphon out your expensive fuel. If you do carry your fuel inside your toy hauler, make sure you have adequate ventilation. I always leave the windows and roof vent open an inch or so to get some cross ventilation. Gasoline fumes are extremely volatile! Liquid fuel is pretty stable. I've seen demonstrations where a match was thrown into an open 1-gallon can filled with gas and the match went out. Do the same with only an inch of liquid fuel in the bottom and the upper part will be filled with fumes and you'll get a rather spectacular explosion! You definitely don't want your trailer to fill up with fumes! Open the roof vent an inch or two and leave at least one window open a little to provide cross ventilation to draw out any fumes from gas cans or the fuel tanks on your vehicles.
Other types of OHVs, like jet skies and snowmobiles, will have different transportation needs. Jet skis will need to be on a submersible trailer so you can launch them into the water. Enclosed trailers are not usually good options for jet skis. Snowmobile trailers often have pointed front ends with doors in the side of the point to allow the snowmobiles to be driven out instead of having to be backed out. Unlike ATVs, which are often loaded tilted back at an angle with their front wheels off the floor to get more vehicles in less floor space or dirt bikes that can be loaded very close to each other, snowmobiles require a lot of flat floor space. If you have sufficient room, a snowmobile trailer can be set up much like a dirt bike trailer to haul your tools, spare parts, and riding gear. Given the climate for snowmobiling you might want to add a furnace or propane heater to make the trailer more comfortable for working on your machines or just changing in and out of your snowmobile riding gear. Because a water tank will freeze, you probably won't want to install a water system in a snowmobile trailer. If you use the same trailer for summer outings and do have a water system be sure to drain it and properly winterize the system before freezing weather sets in or install some kind of heating system to prevent it from freezing. There are thermostatically controlled tank heating pads that run on both 120-volt ac and 12-volt dc current.
Happy hauling!
Friday, February 18, 2011
RV Shows
A good way to check out different types of RVs is to visit an RV show. They are held all over the country so you should be able to find one near you. Usually there will be dozens or even hundreds of new and sometimes used RVs for sale at special "show prices". If you are in the market to immediately purchase an RV, you can sometimes save thousands of dollars over the normal retail price. I recently saw a brand new $15,000 travel trailer with a show price under $8,000 and a big Class A luxury motorhome with a $43,000 savings. But even if you aren't in the market to buy right now, an RV show is a good place to see just about every type of RV there is: tent trailers, truck campers, tear-drop trailers, travel trailers, fifth-wheels, toy haulers, all classes of motorhomes, even tow vehicles. There will usually be a lot of vendors of RV supplies and gadgets there too. You can walk through and inspect various units and see which ones appeal to you and get a good idea of what features you may want when you are ready to purchase. Some RV shows even have free admission, although you can expect to pay up to $10/person for others. Even so, that is a lot cheaper than driving around to a dozen or so dealers to see the same selection of possibilities -- and without the high-pressure sales you may experience on dealer's lots. It is also a convenient way to compare styles and features since you can see them side by side and easily go back and forth to test your memory and compare your preferences. Besides that, it is kind of fun to see the new units. My first impression when I walked into one new Class A motorhome with 5 slideouts, was "This is bigger than my house!" It cost more too, even at its special "show price". The amenities available in even the most basic tent trailers these days is phenomenal. And big class A motorhomes and large travel trailers offer as many options as a new permanent home, including washers and dryers, dishwashers, residential sized refrigerators, and home theater systems along with more common features such as central, ducted forced air heating and air conditioning. You'll even find granite counter tops and ceramic tile floors, some with hydronic heating underneath.
RV and Campground Info. RV shows are usually a great source of information about RVing. State parks will often have people there to promote local camping options. Experienced RVers often offer seminars, including driving, cooking, and full-timing. Vendors showcase the newest and most popular options and gadgets, often at discounted "show prices". Plus, you have a concentration of people who are active in the RV life-style who are usually more than happy to answer any questions you have and share their personal experiences and expertise. RV manufacturers often have their own representatives on site in addition to the dealer's salesmen to answer questions about their products. RV clubs will frequently have booths at RV shows and are a wonderful source of information about the best places to go, where and when, the best gadgets to buy (and the ones to avoid!), and can put you in touch with other people in your area who may share the same interests you have.
RVs shows can be a fun way to spend some time. Seeing the new rigs and comparing features is interesting and entertaining and may better prepare you for future purchases. You are likely to enjoy talking with both vendors and other visitors and you may get a chance to share your favorite RV experience too.
RV gadgets are often show cased at RV shows so it is a good place to check out new things for your RV or camp kit. You can sometimes get special introductory pricing on new innovations and "show" pricing on regular items from major suppliers like Camping World. Even if you have to pay full retail for some things it might save you a trip to the store. The selection will usually include many items that are currently most popular among RVers so its a good place to look for ideas to add to the functionality, fun, or convenience of your rig. You'll often have a chance to see new gadgets demonstrated and sometimes be able to try them out yourselves.
Many RV shows include seminars on various RV and camping topics ranging from cooking to maintenance to driving. Sometimes seminars are included in the price of admission; sometimes each one has its own entry fee. It is good place to gain access to a lot of useful expert advise. Some free seminars are just that, a free service for attendees. These are often provided by the show promoters or sponsored by clubs, retailers, and manufacturers. Others are thinly veiled sales pitches for everything from gadgets to campground memberships, so know what you're getting into and don't ever allow yourself to be bullied in buying something you don't need or want. I am quite offended by high pressure sales tactics and will usually walk out as soon as I encounter them. A quality product or service should stand on its own without high pressure sales pitches, but do watch for special introductory or "show" prices. Sellers will often offer new products at substantial discounts to build up interest and get some reviews.
Local land managers such as State Parks, US Forest Service, and the BLM often have a presence and sometimes even sponsor their own trade shows where you can learn more about resources in your area. When we lived in Chicago one of the state parks showed movies every Friday night. We would bring a picnic dinner to eat before and during the show and then stay in the campground overnight.
So, whether you're thinking of buying your first RV or ready to upgrade or just wanting to checkout the latest gadgets, you'll most likely find it well worth your time and money -- and a lot of fun -- to go to an RV show and test your ideas.
On With The Show!
RV and Campground Info. RV shows are usually a great source of information about RVing. State parks will often have people there to promote local camping options. Experienced RVers often offer seminars, including driving, cooking, and full-timing. Vendors showcase the newest and most popular options and gadgets, often at discounted "show prices". Plus, you have a concentration of people who are active in the RV life-style who are usually more than happy to answer any questions you have and share their personal experiences and expertise. RV manufacturers often have their own representatives on site in addition to the dealer's salesmen to answer questions about their products. RV clubs will frequently have booths at RV shows and are a wonderful source of information about the best places to go, where and when, the best gadgets to buy (and the ones to avoid!), and can put you in touch with other people in your area who may share the same interests you have.
RVs shows can be a fun way to spend some time. Seeing the new rigs and comparing features is interesting and entertaining and may better prepare you for future purchases. You are likely to enjoy talking with both vendors and other visitors and you may get a chance to share your favorite RV experience too.
RV gadgets are often show cased at RV shows so it is a good place to check out new things for your RV or camp kit. You can sometimes get special introductory pricing on new innovations and "show" pricing on regular items from major suppliers like Camping World. Even if you have to pay full retail for some things it might save you a trip to the store. The selection will usually include many items that are currently most popular among RVers so its a good place to look for ideas to add to the functionality, fun, or convenience of your rig. You'll often have a chance to see new gadgets demonstrated and sometimes be able to try them out yourselves.
Many RV shows include seminars on various RV and camping topics ranging from cooking to maintenance to driving. Sometimes seminars are included in the price of admission; sometimes each one has its own entry fee. It is good place to gain access to a lot of useful expert advise. Some free seminars are just that, a free service for attendees. These are often provided by the show promoters or sponsored by clubs, retailers, and manufacturers. Others are thinly veiled sales pitches for everything from gadgets to campground memberships, so know what you're getting into and don't ever allow yourself to be bullied in buying something you don't need or want. I am quite offended by high pressure sales tactics and will usually walk out as soon as I encounter them. A quality product or service should stand on its own without high pressure sales pitches, but do watch for special introductory or "show" prices. Sellers will often offer new products at substantial discounts to build up interest and get some reviews.
Local land managers such as State Parks, US Forest Service, and the BLM often have a presence and sometimes even sponsor their own trade shows where you can learn more about resources in your area. When we lived in Chicago one of the state parks showed movies every Friday night. We would bring a picnic dinner to eat before and during the show and then stay in the campground overnight.
So, whether you're thinking of buying your first RV or ready to upgrade or just wanting to checkout the latest gadgets, you'll most likely find it well worth your time and money -- and a lot of fun -- to go to an RV show and test your ideas.
On With The Show!
My Favorite RV and OHV Publications and Organizations
If you are new to RVing, OHVing, or camping you may find it useful to "bone up" by reading some industry publications. I've been RVing and OHVing for nearly 50 years and still find it educational and fun to read current RV and OHV magazines.
I am an avid reader of Motorhome Magazine. I devour each issue from cover to cover over and over. They provide interesting articles on new motorhomes, destinations, new products, and maintenance tips. Each issue also contains technical columns on both coach and chassis where experts answer reader's questions. The classified ads include motorhomes for sale, campgrounds, and many accessories you may find useful. One of my favorite features is the "Quick Tips", a selection of RV tips submitted by other readers. These are usually fast, inexpensive ways to solve simple problems or add convenience or functionality to your motorhome or travel trailer. Now Motorhome Magazine also includes the GoodSam Highways magazine 4 times a year. It appears as a special section within Motorhome. I hang on to issues with particularly interesting or useful articles and frequently re-read them.
If you have a travel trailer instead of a motorhome, I recommend Motorhome's sister publication, Trailer Life.
My favorite dirt bike magazine is Dirt Rider. Dirt Rider is filled with reviews of new motorcycles, gear, riding techniques, and maintenance tips.
If your OHV is an ATV, check out ATV Magazine.
For up-to-date information regarding OHV issues, especially land use issues, check out Blue Ribbon Coalition (BRC). BRC is a good place to learn about and support the efforts to preserve and protect our recreational OHV areas.
There are many good camping magazines, each with its own focus. Backpacker obviously focuses on backpacking. Camping Life is more general, aimed at family camping, truck campers, and pop-up trailers.
There are many other good publications, both online and in print, so do a Google or Yahoo search for your specific interest. You will find dozens of offerings on just about any subject or activity that interests you.
There are many good camping and OHV related organizations too. You will find state organizations like California's CORVA -- California Off Road Vehicle Association. As a current resident of Utah, I recommend both the Utah Trail Machine Association and the Utah Shared Access Alliance. You should also look for local clubs and organizations related specifically to your interests (ATVs, dirt bikes, bird watching, rock-hounding). There are RV clubs, some designed for and sponsored for owners of specific brands and others like the Family Motorocoach Association and local chapters of the Good Sam Club open to everyone and sometimes have chapters dedicated to singles, dogs, and supporting specific charitable functions.
Manufacturers clubs and associations. Many RV manufacturers have or support organizations specific to their vehicles. These are usually inexpensive to join and provide information via websites and printed publications. Some will have local chapters where you can associate and share experiences with other owners. Manufacturer organizations are often an excellent source of maintenance information and resources specific to your particular rig. A brand specific club can be an excellent source of help when looking for parts or other help, especially with vintage vehicles.
The more you learn about your RV and OHVs, and where and how to use them, the more comfortable you will be using and enjoying them. Appropriate tech articles can often save a lot of time, money, and frustration when you happen to encounter a similar problem. Travel articles can suggest places to go and things to do. Maintenance tips can save you time and money and make your trips more fun.
Happy reading!
I am an avid reader of Motorhome Magazine. I devour each issue from cover to cover over and over. They provide interesting articles on new motorhomes, destinations, new products, and maintenance tips. Each issue also contains technical columns on both coach and chassis where experts answer reader's questions. The classified ads include motorhomes for sale, campgrounds, and many accessories you may find useful. One of my favorite features is the "Quick Tips", a selection of RV tips submitted by other readers. These are usually fast, inexpensive ways to solve simple problems or add convenience or functionality to your motorhome or travel trailer. Now Motorhome Magazine also includes the GoodSam Highways magazine 4 times a year. It appears as a special section within Motorhome. I hang on to issues with particularly interesting or useful articles and frequently re-read them.
If you have a travel trailer instead of a motorhome, I recommend Motorhome's sister publication, Trailer Life.
My favorite dirt bike magazine is Dirt Rider. Dirt Rider is filled with reviews of new motorcycles, gear, riding techniques, and maintenance tips.
If your OHV is an ATV, check out ATV Magazine.
For up-to-date information regarding OHV issues, especially land use issues, check out Blue Ribbon Coalition (BRC). BRC is a good place to learn about and support the efforts to preserve and protect our recreational OHV areas.
There are many good camping magazines, each with its own focus. Backpacker obviously focuses on backpacking. Camping Life is more general, aimed at family camping, truck campers, and pop-up trailers.
There are many other good publications, both online and in print, so do a Google or Yahoo search for your specific interest. You will find dozens of offerings on just about any subject or activity that interests you.
There are many good camping and OHV related organizations too. You will find state organizations like California's CORVA -- California Off Road Vehicle Association. As a current resident of Utah, I recommend both the Utah Trail Machine Association and the Utah Shared Access Alliance. You should also look for local clubs and organizations related specifically to your interests (ATVs, dirt bikes, bird watching, rock-hounding). There are RV clubs, some designed for and sponsored for owners of specific brands and others like the Family Motorocoach Association and local chapters of the Good Sam Club open to everyone and sometimes have chapters dedicated to singles, dogs, and supporting specific charitable functions.
Manufacturers clubs and associations. Many RV manufacturers have or support organizations specific to their vehicles. These are usually inexpensive to join and provide information via websites and printed publications. Some will have local chapters where you can associate and share experiences with other owners. Manufacturer organizations are often an excellent source of maintenance information and resources specific to your particular rig. A brand specific club can be an excellent source of help when looking for parts or other help, especially with vintage vehicles.
The more you learn about your RV and OHVs, and where and how to use them, the more comfortable you will be using and enjoying them. Appropriate tech articles can often save a lot of time, money, and frustration when you happen to encounter a similar problem. Travel articles can suggest places to go and things to do. Maintenance tips can save you time and money and make your trips more fun.
Happy reading!
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Repairing RV Structural Damage
For the most part, repairing structural damage to an RV should be left to professionals. They know what they're doing and usually have access to blueprints and schematics to guide them. However, sometimes we can't afford it, or it doesn't seem cost effective to invest that much money in older units. Sometimes it is impossible to find matching replacement materials. If you have basic carpentry skills and tools you may be able to make some repairs yourself. I had two enclosed motorcycle trailers (toy haulers) that both suffered similar problems. I later learned that these units (both were 1970s vintage Journeyman "Smuggler" trailers, some of the very first "toy hauler" travel trailers) had a known weakness. In both cases the right front corner of the unit came apart. I accepted blame for the first one because I had mounted a shelf in that corner to hold my tool box and I figured the weight of the tool box was responsible for knocking the corner apart. A couple of years later I experienced the same problem on a second Smuggler without the tool box as a potential culprit. I subsequently learned that just the torquing of the the body over rough terrain and many years service caused the separation and that this was a common failure on these models. Following the advice of a friend who had been an RV engineer at Sportscoach and who had built his own personal motorhome from scratch I was able to make repairs myself. In both cases, I carefully removed the interior paneling to expose the structural damage. The framing was made of 2x2 pine, which had shattered or split at critical joints. I carefully measured and replaced the damaged sections and added steel angle braces at each exposed joint. Note: I had to bend the angles to fit because the joints in the trailer were not 90° due to the sloped front of the trailer. To get the front wall pulled back into place, I replaced the standard pipe in a furniture clamp with one long enough to allow the clamp to grip the trailer from end to end. Then I tightened the furniture clamp until the front wall was re-aligned and installed additional angle brackets and bracing to secure the wall in place and to further strengthen the structure before re-installing insulation and the interior paneling. For the first unit, where I had the heavy tool box, I designed and had a local welder build an internal framework of 1" square steel tubing to both reinforce the entire front end of the trailer and hold the toolbox that was securely bolted to the frame. That may have been overkill, but I wanted to make sure my tool box didn't pound my trailer apart again and I never had any more problems.
I justified doing this repair myself because both trailers were many years old and had little market value (especially with the damaged front end). I had little to lose by attempting the repair myself and I could neither afford nor justify the expense of having them professionally repaired -- PLUS I had the advice of an expert to guide me, which was a big advantage.
In my case, the damage was structural, all inside the walls, and the cosmetic components (interior paneling and exterior skin) were salvageable. You may have cosmetic damage to exterior or interior wall or ceiling panels. Cosmetic damage is not uncommon, and, although it may not affect the utility or integrity of the unit, it is unsightly and will reduce resale or trade-in value as well as diminishing the unit in your own eyes. Damaged external skin can allow the elements access into the walls which eventually causes additional damage. Sometimes you may be able to match exterior surfaces and replace damaged sections yourself, but finding matching materials for older units may be difficult if not impossible. If that is the case, you may have to replace a lot more than just the damaged section to maintain a consistent and cosmetically appealing appearance. A quick and inexpensive solution I learned from an RV technician for many exterior repairs is to cover the damaged area with a furnace vent like the ones in your home. You can buy them in various sizes at any home center or hardware store. They can be painted to match any color scheme and though non-functional, give a better factory appearance than using unmatched patches. A critical point in making any exterior repairs is ensuring that all seams are secure and sealed before installing any cosmetic covering. Many RVs have fiberglass exteriors and these can sometimes be repaired using fiberglass mesh and a plastic resin filler such as "Bondo". Such repairs are usually a last ditch effort when replacement parts cannot be found. Getting a "like new" appearance with Bondo is often attempted but seldom achieved by amateurs. It is pretty easy to work with but getting a visually perfect finish requires a lot of practice and patience.
Damaged interior paneling is usually more universal and easier to match. Most RVs use common 3/16" luan plywood. In a pinch, you may have to replace more than just the immediate damaged area to make a cosmetically pleasing repair. You may have to redo a whole section or even a whole wall. Replacing damaged exterior panels or "skin" requires carefully removing the damaged section. You may be able to carefully cut out and replace only the damaged area by using matching "trim" to secure and cover the new seams. Or you may have to replace the entire original panel. Replacing interior paneling that has dry rot or has impact damage can greatly enhance the appearance and improve the re-sale value of an older unit. You might use pre-finished paneling, Other interior replacement panels can be stained, painted, or wall-papered to match or complement the original interior. Sometimes you can install new paneling over old to achieve satisfactory results without taking things apart, but you usually get a better looking and better fitting repair if you remove and replace damaged panels. Covering up rotted paneling encourages further deterioration and may produce unpleasant odors from the old, rotting wood and damage the new paneling you install over it. Whenever replacing exterior or interior panels, inspect the exposed area behind the panels for structural damage and replace or reinforce any damaged structural members while you have access to them. This is also a good time to check any exposed wiring for wear or damage or perhaps to add wiring for additional accessories (like speaker wiring or additional lights or accessories) you may have in mind or may want someday. All exterior walls should include insulation. Even if, by chance, your unit was not fully insulated, take advantage of having the paneling off to install insulation in the exposed area. Foam board or fiberglass sheet or roll insulation can be easily cut to fit to fill available spaces. Small areas and cracks can be filled with spray foam. You may want to insulate interior walls too, for noise control, if nothing else. If there are visible cracks or seams that could allow moisture or air to enter an exterior wall, seal them with silicone or spray foam insulation. Your goal is to keep the inside of the wall dry and prevent drafts. Moisture inside a wall can result in dry rot and drafts negate any insulating quality of the the dead air space in the wall. Interior panels may be glued, nailed, or screwed in place. If you choose to use screws, you will probably want to use plastic screw caps to make the installation more attractive. Finish the installation by staining or painting the new segment or covering it with wall paper to match or complement the existing decor and use appropriate trim to cover seams and finish any exposed edges. You might disguise interior damage using vent panels or installing decorative features such as mirrors, small cabinets, sconces, or shelves. Wall paper or just wall paper borders might be used to update an old, outdated interior and cover over unsightly walls. I once made use of an unsightly hole in a cabinet front to install a battery operated clock. You will find a variety of clock kits at most craft stores that include the mechanism, hands, and pre-glued numbers.
Other areas that frequently need repairs are floors and roofs. With floors, you can usually take up the floor covering, cut out the rotten or damaged section, replace it with similar plywood or underlayment, then re-install the floor covering. I do not recommend particle board as it doesn't do well if it gets wet. For best result use a marine-grade, exterior plywood. Roofs are more difficult. You may be able to patch tears in rubber roofs and small punctures in any roof, but internal structural damage requires major renovation. Sometimes you may be able to repair damaged ceiling panels but if the exterior paneling or the infrastructure has been weakened, repairs will be complex and are best handled by professionals since it will probably involve removing and rebuilding the structural components of the roof. It may also involve removing all the upper cabinets throughout the RV. Many RV roofs have all the layers from the ceiling surface to the outside surface laminated together. This makes spot repairs difficult and I would leave any major roof repairs to professionals. Punctures and cracks can usually be successfully repaired at home using materials and sealants that are compatible with the roof material. Dry rot and "soft spots" in the roof are probably best left to the pros. Whenever you make any dry rot repairs anywhere in your RV, make sure the area is allowed to thoroughly dry out before installing new material and closing it up.
Bent or damaged frames are, fortunately, fairly rare, but I have seen it happen. I discovered a sagging rear end on one of my early Class C motorhomes. A thorough inspection found that some places where the frame and been extended had never been properly welded into place. We used jacks near the rear bumper to lift the sagging segment back into place, then reinforced and welded the appropriate joints. I've also seen frames bent from inappropriate use of air bag suspension. The air bags were installed per the bag manufacturer's instructions directly over the axle. Turned out that was the weakest part of the frame and the new air bags became the single, primary point of suspension. supplanting the original design that put the weight at two points where the leaf springs attached to sturdy parts of the frame. An analysis by a stress engineer I knew determined it would take only a 1" drop to bend the frame over the air bags! The solution was removing the air bags, then propping up the back of the motorhome and letting its own weight push the frame back to where it should have been over several days. The next step is to reinforce the weakened frame by welding 1/4" plates along the narrowed portions. That kind of welding is best done using an arc or mig welder, not a gas welder and extra care must be used to avoid igniting any of the non-metalic components of the RV. A frame that has been bent or twisted by an accident should be straightened by a professional frame straightening service. On rare occasions, a frame might get twisted simply by driving the RV aggressively over rough roads and that too will probably require professional frame straightening.
Cabinets and interior walls will sometimes come loose. While this is not as urgent as significant exterior damage, it is still something you will want to deal with before it gets worse. You surely want to repair overhead cabinets before the fall on someone! Try to determine why the separation has occurred. Sometimes overhead cabinets are overloaded, causing them to pull away from walls and ceilings. The first step is to empty the cabinets. Then look for cracks in the interior framing and/or fasteners that have pulled loosed. Sometimes you can replace loose fasteners with slightly larger ones that will find a grip in the underlying structure sufficient to effect repairs. Sometimes you might have to add internal bracing that can be secured to the walls or ceiling to anchor the cabinet. In a worst case scenario you might be able to add a support under the front of the cabinet. If you use a decorative support like a stair railing baluster under each corner between the overhead cabinet and the counter top below, it can look quite cosmetically pleasing. When you have completed your repairs, avoid overloading the cabinet again to prevent future damage. If interior walls have separated from the ceiling or from exterior walls, it may be an indication of tweaking of the the whole body of the coach and ultimately the cause of the deformation needs to be corrected. If you cannot determine the cause of the deformation and simply want to correct the gap you will probably have to disassemble the wall and reinstall it to get a good fit. To maintain original appearance try to salvage the paneling so you can reuse it. Sometimes you can shift the framing back into place and secure it to floor, walls, and ceiling. If the deformation is too great for that you may have to remove the framing and start over, building a frame that will fit properly. Slight separations can sometimes be covered with moldings for a temporary repair. Doing so without correction the cause will not fix the problem, but you might be able to get by with it for a while. Some small gaps are actually quite normal and if they aren't getting noticeably larger with time its probably safe to cover them for cosmetic purposes.
Minor repairs. Normal wear and tear are going to take their toll on any vehicle. You can expect to accumulate scrapes and scratches and perhaps a few punctures in RV wall panels over time. Keeping up with minor defects can often prevent the damage from spreading. Tears in upholstery, drapes, curtains, or carpets should be neatly sewn. Some tears in vinyl upholstery can be effectively repaired with liquid patches or vinyl tape. For temporary repairs, you can use duct tape to close gashes and prevent dirt from getting underneath as well as reducing the chance the tear will get worse. Damage to exterior surfaces require quick attention to avoid dirt, moisture, or wind from causing further damage. A loose exterior panel can be temporarily secured with duct tape to keep it from blowing off and keep the weather out. A tear or puncture in the roof or a side panel can also be temporarily repaired with duct tape in dry weather. In wet weather you may need a special tape that sticks to wet surfaces. It is going to be more expensive and harder to find than duct tape, but it will be well worth it if you can prevent water from getting into ceilings and wall panels. Cracked or broken windows also need prompt attention. Duct tape isn't pretty for this, so you might want to carry a roll of clear packing tape. Cracked or broken mirrors inside your RV create a hazard and should be promptly removed or taped up to prevent glass shards from becoming projectiles during any unexpected violent maneuvers.
Some nicely done repairs may add years of life to an older unit, prevent further damage and even injuries, improve resale value, and give you a lot of personal satisfaction. Sometimes a repair becomes the stimulus for an innovative redesign that corrects defficiencies in the original design or just modernizes the unit and is particularly rewarding when it is complete.
Good luck and have fun!
I justified doing this repair myself because both trailers were many years old and had little market value (especially with the damaged front end). I had little to lose by attempting the repair myself and I could neither afford nor justify the expense of having them professionally repaired -- PLUS I had the advice of an expert to guide me, which was a big advantage.
In my case, the damage was structural, all inside the walls, and the cosmetic components (interior paneling and exterior skin) were salvageable. You may have cosmetic damage to exterior or interior wall or ceiling panels. Cosmetic damage is not uncommon, and, although it may not affect the utility or integrity of the unit, it is unsightly and will reduce resale or trade-in value as well as diminishing the unit in your own eyes. Damaged external skin can allow the elements access into the walls which eventually causes additional damage. Sometimes you may be able to match exterior surfaces and replace damaged sections yourself, but finding matching materials for older units may be difficult if not impossible. If that is the case, you may have to replace a lot more than just the damaged section to maintain a consistent and cosmetically appealing appearance. A quick and inexpensive solution I learned from an RV technician for many exterior repairs is to cover the damaged area with a furnace vent like the ones in your home. You can buy them in various sizes at any home center or hardware store. They can be painted to match any color scheme and though non-functional, give a better factory appearance than using unmatched patches. A critical point in making any exterior repairs is ensuring that all seams are secure and sealed before installing any cosmetic covering. Many RVs have fiberglass exteriors and these can sometimes be repaired using fiberglass mesh and a plastic resin filler such as "Bondo". Such repairs are usually a last ditch effort when replacement parts cannot be found. Getting a "like new" appearance with Bondo is often attempted but seldom achieved by amateurs. It is pretty easy to work with but getting a visually perfect finish requires a lot of practice and patience.
Damaged interior paneling is usually more universal and easier to match. Most RVs use common 3/16" luan plywood. In a pinch, you may have to replace more than just the immediate damaged area to make a cosmetically pleasing repair. You may have to redo a whole section or even a whole wall. Replacing damaged exterior panels or "skin" requires carefully removing the damaged section. You may be able to carefully cut out and replace only the damaged area by using matching "trim" to secure and cover the new seams. Or you may have to replace the entire original panel. Replacing interior paneling that has dry rot or has impact damage can greatly enhance the appearance and improve the re-sale value of an older unit. You might use pre-finished paneling, Other interior replacement panels can be stained, painted, or wall-papered to match or complement the original interior. Sometimes you can install new paneling over old to achieve satisfactory results without taking things apart, but you usually get a better looking and better fitting repair if you remove and replace damaged panels. Covering up rotted paneling encourages further deterioration and may produce unpleasant odors from the old, rotting wood and damage the new paneling you install over it. Whenever replacing exterior or interior panels, inspect the exposed area behind the panels for structural damage and replace or reinforce any damaged structural members while you have access to them. This is also a good time to check any exposed wiring for wear or damage or perhaps to add wiring for additional accessories (like speaker wiring or additional lights or accessories) you may have in mind or may want someday. All exterior walls should include insulation. Even if, by chance, your unit was not fully insulated, take advantage of having the paneling off to install insulation in the exposed area. Foam board or fiberglass sheet or roll insulation can be easily cut to fit to fill available spaces. Small areas and cracks can be filled with spray foam. You may want to insulate interior walls too, for noise control, if nothing else. If there are visible cracks or seams that could allow moisture or air to enter an exterior wall, seal them with silicone or spray foam insulation. Your goal is to keep the inside of the wall dry and prevent drafts. Moisture inside a wall can result in dry rot and drafts negate any insulating quality of the the dead air space in the wall. Interior panels may be glued, nailed, or screwed in place. If you choose to use screws, you will probably want to use plastic screw caps to make the installation more attractive. Finish the installation by staining or painting the new segment or covering it with wall paper to match or complement the existing decor and use appropriate trim to cover seams and finish any exposed edges. You might disguise interior damage using vent panels or installing decorative features such as mirrors, small cabinets, sconces, or shelves. Wall paper or just wall paper borders might be used to update an old, outdated interior and cover over unsightly walls. I once made use of an unsightly hole in a cabinet front to install a battery operated clock. You will find a variety of clock kits at most craft stores that include the mechanism, hands, and pre-glued numbers.
Other areas that frequently need repairs are floors and roofs. With floors, you can usually take up the floor covering, cut out the rotten or damaged section, replace it with similar plywood or underlayment, then re-install the floor covering. I do not recommend particle board as it doesn't do well if it gets wet. For best result use a marine-grade, exterior plywood. Roofs are more difficult. You may be able to patch tears in rubber roofs and small punctures in any roof, but internal structural damage requires major renovation. Sometimes you may be able to repair damaged ceiling panels but if the exterior paneling or the infrastructure has been weakened, repairs will be complex and are best handled by professionals since it will probably involve removing and rebuilding the structural components of the roof. It may also involve removing all the upper cabinets throughout the RV. Many RV roofs have all the layers from the ceiling surface to the outside surface laminated together. This makes spot repairs difficult and I would leave any major roof repairs to professionals. Punctures and cracks can usually be successfully repaired at home using materials and sealants that are compatible with the roof material. Dry rot and "soft spots" in the roof are probably best left to the pros. Whenever you make any dry rot repairs anywhere in your RV, make sure the area is allowed to thoroughly dry out before installing new material and closing it up.
Bent or damaged frames are, fortunately, fairly rare, but I have seen it happen. I discovered a sagging rear end on one of my early Class C motorhomes. A thorough inspection found that some places where the frame and been extended had never been properly welded into place. We used jacks near the rear bumper to lift the sagging segment back into place, then reinforced and welded the appropriate joints. I've also seen frames bent from inappropriate use of air bag suspension. The air bags were installed per the bag manufacturer's instructions directly over the axle. Turned out that was the weakest part of the frame and the new air bags became the single, primary point of suspension. supplanting the original design that put the weight at two points where the leaf springs attached to sturdy parts of the frame. An analysis by a stress engineer I knew determined it would take only a 1" drop to bend the frame over the air bags! The solution was removing the air bags, then propping up the back of the motorhome and letting its own weight push the frame back to where it should have been over several days. The next step is to reinforce the weakened frame by welding 1/4" plates along the narrowed portions. That kind of welding is best done using an arc or mig welder, not a gas welder and extra care must be used to avoid igniting any of the non-metalic components of the RV. A frame that has been bent or twisted by an accident should be straightened by a professional frame straightening service. On rare occasions, a frame might get twisted simply by driving the RV aggressively over rough roads and that too will probably require professional frame straightening.
Cabinets and interior walls will sometimes come loose. While this is not as urgent as significant exterior damage, it is still something you will want to deal with before it gets worse. You surely want to repair overhead cabinets before the fall on someone! Try to determine why the separation has occurred. Sometimes overhead cabinets are overloaded, causing them to pull away from walls and ceilings. The first step is to empty the cabinets. Then look for cracks in the interior framing and/or fasteners that have pulled loosed. Sometimes you can replace loose fasteners with slightly larger ones that will find a grip in the underlying structure sufficient to effect repairs. Sometimes you might have to add internal bracing that can be secured to the walls or ceiling to anchor the cabinet. In a worst case scenario you might be able to add a support under the front of the cabinet. If you use a decorative support like a stair railing baluster under each corner between the overhead cabinet and the counter top below, it can look quite cosmetically pleasing. When you have completed your repairs, avoid overloading the cabinet again to prevent future damage. If interior walls have separated from the ceiling or from exterior walls, it may be an indication of tweaking of the the whole body of the coach and ultimately the cause of the deformation needs to be corrected. If you cannot determine the cause of the deformation and simply want to correct the gap you will probably have to disassemble the wall and reinstall it to get a good fit. To maintain original appearance try to salvage the paneling so you can reuse it. Sometimes you can shift the framing back into place and secure it to floor, walls, and ceiling. If the deformation is too great for that you may have to remove the framing and start over, building a frame that will fit properly. Slight separations can sometimes be covered with moldings for a temporary repair. Doing so without correction the cause will not fix the problem, but you might be able to get by with it for a while. Some small gaps are actually quite normal and if they aren't getting noticeably larger with time its probably safe to cover them for cosmetic purposes.
Minor repairs. Normal wear and tear are going to take their toll on any vehicle. You can expect to accumulate scrapes and scratches and perhaps a few punctures in RV wall panels over time. Keeping up with minor defects can often prevent the damage from spreading. Tears in upholstery, drapes, curtains, or carpets should be neatly sewn. Some tears in vinyl upholstery can be effectively repaired with liquid patches or vinyl tape. For temporary repairs, you can use duct tape to close gashes and prevent dirt from getting underneath as well as reducing the chance the tear will get worse. Damage to exterior surfaces require quick attention to avoid dirt, moisture, or wind from causing further damage. A loose exterior panel can be temporarily secured with duct tape to keep it from blowing off and keep the weather out. A tear or puncture in the roof or a side panel can also be temporarily repaired with duct tape in dry weather. In wet weather you may need a special tape that sticks to wet surfaces. It is going to be more expensive and harder to find than duct tape, but it will be well worth it if you can prevent water from getting into ceilings and wall panels. Cracked or broken windows also need prompt attention. Duct tape isn't pretty for this, so you might want to carry a roll of clear packing tape. Cracked or broken mirrors inside your RV create a hazard and should be promptly removed or taped up to prevent glass shards from becoming projectiles during any unexpected violent maneuvers.
Some nicely done repairs may add years of life to an older unit, prevent further damage and even injuries, improve resale value, and give you a lot of personal satisfaction. Sometimes a repair becomes the stimulus for an innovative redesign that corrects defficiencies in the original design or just modernizes the unit and is particularly rewarding when it is complete.
Good luck and have fun!
Monday, February 14, 2011
Cleaning and Maintaining OHVs and Gear
Let's face it: cleaning usually isn't one of our favorite activites! However, keeping our equipment -- and our living space -- and ourselves -- clean, properly maintained, and well organized is an important part of staying healthy and ensuring longevity of both people and their possessions. I have found this is particularly true of OHVs and riding gear.
Cleaning and Maintaining your OHVs and Gear regularly doesn't mean you are OCD! It just means you are concientious and prefer to have safe, well functioning equipment. It isn't just for show. Cleaning your gear after each use gives you a chance to catch any little problems before they become big ones. Tightening a few loose fasteners on your OHV may save you buying a new fender or new side plate. Fixing small holes in riding apparel prevents them from getting so big you have to scrap the garment and buy a new one.
Keeping your OHV and ridng gear in good condition begins with regular inspection, cleaning, and maintenance. Regular cleaning removes dirt and grime that can affect performance and wear as well as appearance. It also gives you a chance to inspect your vehicle and gear and identify loose fasteners and other items needing attention. You should clean, inspect, and repair your vehicles and gear after every outing and even between rides in camp. Riding gear (pants and jerseys) should be laundered between trips and inspected for wear and tear that may mean repair or replacement. Dirt and grime left in fabric can wear and weaken fibers, shortening the life of the garment. Small holes, tears, or loose seams can usually be quickly repaired so you can continue to use the garment for many more rides.
You need to inspect your ride and your gear before each outing and between rides during an outing. Your pre-trip inspection should be very thorough. You want to catch any potential problems before you leave home so you can take care of them while you still have access to all your tools and to replacement parts if needed. Checking your machine between rides lets you correct any new problems, such as loose fasteners, while you're still in camp, hopefully before they become a significant issue out on the trail.
Start with a visual inspection. Carefully look over your ride BEFORE you begin rinsing or washing it. This allows you to detect stains that indicate leaks. Typical sources of leaks are cooling system, fuel system, and oil. Oil leaks may come from the engine, transmission, forks, or shocks. Note any signs of leakage so you can make appropriate repairs or adjustments before your next ride. While you're at it, remove any large pieces of debris and knock off big chunks of mud such as those that accumulate under fenders. If there are any tears in the seat, repair or cover them before washing to avoid getting water into the padding. If you get the padding wet you're going to have a hard time getting any patch to stick. Protect the exhaust by inserting a correct plug or fastening a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. then avoid directing a powerful spray in that area.
If you use a power washer, take care not to direct the spray on seals where the pressure may force in water and detergents, thereby contaminating lubricants and damaging expensive components. Typical problem areas to avoid include axle and swing arm seals. Removing dirt and grime from radiators and the finned heads on air cooled engines will reduce the chance of over heating. Any good automotive car wash soap should work well on most OHVs. Dish soap, which many people use routinely to wash cars and motorized toys, tends to remove wax and leave the surface unprotected so you may want to avoid using it unless your intention is to strip all the old wax from the surface or you're going to wax it again right away.
The next step is to rinse the vehicle to get rid of large deposits of dirt and mud and insects. Let it soak for a few minutes to soften deposits, rinse off the mud, then wash it with a soapy sponge or soft cloth. A brush is useful in cleaning tires, spokes, and drive chains. Next rinse it quickly, before the soapy solution can dry. Then dry it with a soft dry cloth. You may notice things that need attention while washing or drying your OHV -- loose fasteners, loose chains, low tires, cracked or missing plastic, damaged or worn hand grips, bent or broken levers, tears in the seat. You will want to keep a pad and pencil close by to jot down things as you notice them. Otherwise, by the time you've finished cleaning and shining your toy you may forget some of the maintenance items. These WILL come back to haunt you, and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, will no doubt fail at the most inappropriate time during your next ride. I like to finish cleaning my bike by spraying it with a product called SC-1. I first discovered this product when living in southern California. Each time I took my bike into KTM of Mojave for repairs, it came back looking like a brand new bike. So I asked them how they did it, and they showed me SC-1, who advertises itself as "A New Bike In a Can". SC-1 is a silicone-based detailing spray that can be used on just about any hard surface. Just don't spray it on the seat right before a ride. It makes it WAY to slippery! But it is really great on plastic, rubber, and painted surfaces. It is a little pricey, usually around $9.00 a can, but well worth it. If your local OHV dealer doesn't stock it, they can probably special order it for you. It is made by Maxima and most OHV dealers carry other Maxima products. In addition to leaving a great shine, the coating helps prevent dirt and mud from adhering to fenders and side covers so your ride will stay cleaner longer and be easier to wash when you get home after your next ride. It also provides some additional UV protection. Note, SC-1 is different from ArmorAll and similar automotive products that are water-based. Last but certainly not least, re-oil drive chains with an appropriate lubricant. This will help prevent rust. Many of my friends like to use WD-40 on their chains after washing their dirt bikes because it has water displacing (WD) properties that can penetrate inside the chain and will help prevent rust. Commercial spray on or brush on chain lubricants are very effective and are designed to minimize splatter. Some riders like to remove the chains and soak them in 40 wt motor oil to make sure the oil gets inside all the moving parts. BTW, if you should happen to get SC-1 on the seat, you can usually reduce the slipperiness by rubbing a couple handfuls of dirt on it. Then wipe it clean before mounting up. Another trick for keeping the plastic on OHVs shiny and clean is to wipe it with a product like MopNGlo, which gives a waxy shine that also helps deflect dirt and mud so its easier to clean next time.
I also like to use SC-1 on hard surfaces on my gear (helmet, chest protector, boots, goggle frames, and plastic parts of gloves) to keep them looking good and easier to clean.
Keeping your gear clean and in good condition not only maintains your image, but improves safety. Take the time the clean and inspect your gear after every outing. Note any repairs needed. A small tear in your riding pants or jersey will only get larger over time and increases the chances of catching on something and causing further damage to the item or even causing an accident or injury. It might also be a port for an unwanted cool breeze too. Repair rips and tears or replace damaged items as soon as possible. OHV gear is kind of pricey so you want to get as much use out of each item as you can. Nylon repair tape like that used for tents or sails can sometimes be used to make satisfactory repairs to riding gear and it comes in many colors. Given the way OHV gloves are armored on the back side, it is likely you'll wear out the palms or fingertips first. Worn gloves will still offer some valuable protection to your knuckles, but you may be headed for blisters on your palms or fingers if they're worn through. Sore hands are not only uncomfortable, but a safety hazard since you cannot grip as effectively and you may relinquish some control, making you more susceptible to bumps and bounces that might separate you from your ride and launch you off in a direction you hadn't planned to go. And you don't have to land on pavement or in a pile of rocks to get hurt. Even sand dunes and grass have remarkably hard surfaces when you impact on them. Helmets need to be inspected regularly and, if you've done a get off where you banged your head pretty hard, your helmet should be replaced, even if there are no visible signs of damage. The padding and energy absorbing materials inside that provide a significant part of the protection may be compromised without any visible evidence. When this happens they can be damaged to where they've lost the ability to protect your head. There is no non-destructive way to test the padding in a helmet. Manufacturers have to remove the padding and cut it apart and test it to determine whether or not it has been compromised. That's how they test them during development. Keep your goggles clean and make sure the strap isn't frayed or too stretched out to be usable. There are a number of good lens cleaners on the market. One called "Cat Crap" claims to have been #1 for more than 15 years. It is a green, waxy substance that cleans lenses and leaves an anti-fog coating that works pretty well. Don't let the name turn you off. It looks more like snot than crap and it is really good stuff. I have also used a 3-part Novus plastic cleaner very successfully for years for cleaning goggles. The three solutions vary in abrasiveness to first remove heavy scratches, then lighter scratches, and eventually polish the the lens. Often only the polish is needed to get goggles ready to use. Rain-X manufactures a good anti-fog compound for the inside of our goggles. Most good lens cleaners help repel dust and dirt so your goggles also stay cleaner longer. As I mentioned before, I also like to use SC-1 on my goggle frames to clean and protect them. I try to avoid getting in on the lenses because it leaves a coating that may interfere with anti-fog coatings if not thoroughly dried or buffed out. Boots need to be cleaned and the plastic (and even the leather) parts can also benefit from some SC-1. Check to make sure all the buckles are complete and working smoothly. Sometimes grit gets trapped in the buckles and makes them hard to move. Check the metal tips, replace lost nails, and pound any loose nails back in before the tips come off. Check the soles. Standing on foot pegs and kick starting machines takes it toll on the sole and they get worn from using your feet as ground guides in tight turns. If the soles are getting smooth or showing signs of getting a notch where you stand on the pegs (a VERY common occurrence), it is time to have the soles replaced or get some new boots. Replacement soles can be purchased online for $35 to $60. Then you'll have to pay a shoe repair shop to install them. But that's still a lot cheaper than $300-$400 for new boots! I've only had to replace soles once and was very pleased with the results.
Plastic chest protectors sometimes get cracked. The best solution is to replace them before the damaged portion becomes a chest penetrator instead of a chest protector. However, if your budget is tight you might get away with making some temporary repairs by drilling holes along both sides of the crack and securing it with small cable ties. If you have a plastic welding kit and an skill using it you might be able to repair the damage that way. Chest protectors are good candidates for treating with SC-1 for a like-new appearance too.
Regular OHV Maintenance. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in your owners manual to ensure maximum performance, longevity, and reliability of your OHV. Proper lubrication is essential, especially since most OHVs are subjected to a lot of harsh conditions (dust, vibration, weather, difficult terrain). Proper adjustment of clutch, brake, and shift levers and drive chains are critical for safety, performance, and reliability. Keep your chain properly adjusted and inspect and oil it before every ride. Nothing will shut you down quite like a thrown or broken chain. Furthermore, when a chain comes off, it often gets "stacked" against the transmission case and can cause severe damage. I've seen them jam the shift lever hard enough to crack the transmission case. Change your oil and oil filter as prescribed in your owner's manual. Clean or at least examine air filters and check oil levels before every ride. A dirty filter has a detrimental effect on performance, mileage, and reliability. Low oil can cause serious damage. We neglected to maintain the oil level in my wife's new Honda CRF250X and ended up with a $2800 rebuild! Always make sure your filter is properly installed and secured. I once had an air filter sabotaged by anti-OHV interests while my bike was unattended in a parking lot during an OHV service project. I didn't realize it until it was too late and I'd sucked enough dirt and sand into the engine to destroy the rings! If you think I'm just paranoid about the sabotage, during that same service project, there was a group of guys following along behind us, tearing down the trail signs after we erected them. They were then dumb enough to try to ride through a group of about 200 riders and 6 rangers with the signs still in the back of their pickup! They received a fist-full of citations and all the signs were confiscated by the rangers before they were allowed to proceed. The riders showed an amazing amount of constraint in that they allowed the offenders to continue on their way once the rangers were done with them, but they sure did a good job of keeping them around while the rangers confronted them!
Remember that list I suggested you make while cleaning your bike? Be sure to go down the list and take care of all the needed items before you forget and before you put your ride away until the next trip! You don't want to have to scramble to make repairs as you get ready to hit the road. Tighten all loose fasteners, replace missing pieces, adjust levers and chains, check tire pressures, check air filters, check oil levels, make sure your lights are working (if so equipped). Lubricate all cables. Many newer machines have hydraulic brake and clutch systems, but just about every OHV has a throttle cable. Invest a few bucks in a "cable oiler". This is small device that clamps around the end of the cable. It has a hole for you to insert a tube from a can of spray lubricant (such as WD-40) so you can pressure oil the entire cable. Loosen the cable at the handle-bar end to attach the oiler. Clamp it around the end of the cable and tighten it. Insert the lubricant tube in the appropriate fitting. Then spray lubricant until it appears at the lower end of the cable on the engine. You might be surprised how much better your throttle (or brake or clutch) works with a properly lubricated cable. Loose or damaged grips can be a safety hazard, so replace them as soon as possible. Spray a little hairspray into new grips to make them easier to slide on. When it dries it will also help hold the grips tight. In cold weather, warming the grips will also make them easier to install. Put them in a warm room or tuck them inside your shirt for a while before trying to push them onto the bars.
Upholstery (seat) repairs. Because the seat is made of a soft material, it is particularly susceptible to damage. Sunlight and weather alone will cause a certain amount of deterioration, but impact with sharp objects, even buckles on your riding boots, can cause rips and tears. Quick emergency repairs can be made with duct tape or vinyl tape and may limit further damage until permanent repairs can be made. Large rips and tears may need to be sewed. Smaller ones can sometimes be repaired using RTV silicone or even Goop glue. You may be able to repair small tears using vinyl upholstery repairs kits. They include an appropriately colored liquid you paint over the tear and textured "papers" to attempt to match the original surface. New covers are available to fit most machines to correct severely worn or damaged seats without having to buy a whole new seat. If no replacement seat cover is available to fit your machine, any good upholstery shop should be able to make a new one for you. Having one custom-made gives you more options to choose the color and express your individuality. I previously cautioned against using SC-1 on your seat, because it makes it to slippery. I like to apply a coat of SC-1 AFTER riding (when the bike is going back into storage for a while) to renew the seat material and protect it during storage until the next ride. Usually it will have soaked in and dried enough by the next time I'm ready to take my bike out. That way, it isn't as slippery and yet I get the benefits of the silicone to preserve the vinyl of the seat. If you go riding again soon, be sure to thoroughly buff the seat to remove residual conditioner. If it is still too slick, toss a handful of fine dirt on it. It isn't pretty and may get the seat of your pants dusty, but it beats sliding off the bike!
If you keep your OHV and your gear clean and in good repair they should provide many years of pleasant and enjoyable service. You will feel better if your OHV and gear are clean and in good condition and you will be safer and have less chance of mechanical breakdown out on the trail. A well-kept machine will have better trade-in or re-sale value when its time to upgrade.
Happy OHVing!
Cleaning and Maintaining your OHVs and Gear regularly doesn't mean you are OCD! It just means you are concientious and prefer to have safe, well functioning equipment. It isn't just for show. Cleaning your gear after each use gives you a chance to catch any little problems before they become big ones. Tightening a few loose fasteners on your OHV may save you buying a new fender or new side plate. Fixing small holes in riding apparel prevents them from getting so big you have to scrap the garment and buy a new one.
Keeping your OHV and ridng gear in good condition begins with regular inspection, cleaning, and maintenance. Regular cleaning removes dirt and grime that can affect performance and wear as well as appearance. It also gives you a chance to inspect your vehicle and gear and identify loose fasteners and other items needing attention. You should clean, inspect, and repair your vehicles and gear after every outing and even between rides in camp. Riding gear (pants and jerseys) should be laundered between trips and inspected for wear and tear that may mean repair or replacement. Dirt and grime left in fabric can wear and weaken fibers, shortening the life of the garment. Small holes, tears, or loose seams can usually be quickly repaired so you can continue to use the garment for many more rides.
You need to inspect your ride and your gear before each outing and between rides during an outing. Your pre-trip inspection should be very thorough. You want to catch any potential problems before you leave home so you can take care of them while you still have access to all your tools and to replacement parts if needed. Checking your machine between rides lets you correct any new problems, such as loose fasteners, while you're still in camp, hopefully before they become a significant issue out on the trail.
Start with a visual inspection. Carefully look over your ride BEFORE you begin rinsing or washing it. This allows you to detect stains that indicate leaks. Typical sources of leaks are cooling system, fuel system, and oil. Oil leaks may come from the engine, transmission, forks, or shocks. Note any signs of leakage so you can make appropriate repairs or adjustments before your next ride. While you're at it, remove any large pieces of debris and knock off big chunks of mud such as those that accumulate under fenders. If there are any tears in the seat, repair or cover them before washing to avoid getting water into the padding. If you get the padding wet you're going to have a hard time getting any patch to stick. Protect the exhaust by inserting a correct plug or fastening a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. then avoid directing a powerful spray in that area.
If you use a power washer, take care not to direct the spray on seals where the pressure may force in water and detergents, thereby contaminating lubricants and damaging expensive components. Typical problem areas to avoid include axle and swing arm seals. Removing dirt and grime from radiators and the finned heads on air cooled engines will reduce the chance of over heating. Any good automotive car wash soap should work well on most OHVs. Dish soap, which many people use routinely to wash cars and motorized toys, tends to remove wax and leave the surface unprotected so you may want to avoid using it unless your intention is to strip all the old wax from the surface or you're going to wax it again right away.
The next step is to rinse the vehicle to get rid of large deposits of dirt and mud and insects. Let it soak for a few minutes to soften deposits, rinse off the mud, then wash it with a soapy sponge or soft cloth. A brush is useful in cleaning tires, spokes, and drive chains. Next rinse it quickly, before the soapy solution can dry. Then dry it with a soft dry cloth. You may notice things that need attention while washing or drying your OHV -- loose fasteners, loose chains, low tires, cracked or missing plastic, damaged or worn hand grips, bent or broken levers, tears in the seat. You will want to keep a pad and pencil close by to jot down things as you notice them. Otherwise, by the time you've finished cleaning and shining your toy you may forget some of the maintenance items. These WILL come back to haunt you, and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, will no doubt fail at the most inappropriate time during your next ride. I like to finish cleaning my bike by spraying it with a product called SC-1. I first discovered this product when living in southern California. Each time I took my bike into KTM of Mojave for repairs, it came back looking like a brand new bike. So I asked them how they did it, and they showed me SC-1, who advertises itself as "A New Bike In a Can". SC-1 is a silicone-based detailing spray that can be used on just about any hard surface. Just don't spray it on the seat right before a ride. It makes it WAY to slippery! But it is really great on plastic, rubber, and painted surfaces. It is a little pricey, usually around $9.00 a can, but well worth it. If your local OHV dealer doesn't stock it, they can probably special order it for you. It is made by Maxima and most OHV dealers carry other Maxima products. In addition to leaving a great shine, the coating helps prevent dirt and mud from adhering to fenders and side covers so your ride will stay cleaner longer and be easier to wash when you get home after your next ride. It also provides some additional UV protection. Note, SC-1 is different from ArmorAll and similar automotive products that are water-based. Last but certainly not least, re-oil drive chains with an appropriate lubricant. This will help prevent rust. Many of my friends like to use WD-40 on their chains after washing their dirt bikes because it has water displacing (WD) properties that can penetrate inside the chain and will help prevent rust. Commercial spray on or brush on chain lubricants are very effective and are designed to minimize splatter. Some riders like to remove the chains and soak them in 40 wt motor oil to make sure the oil gets inside all the moving parts. BTW, if you should happen to get SC-1 on the seat, you can usually reduce the slipperiness by rubbing a couple handfuls of dirt on it. Then wipe it clean before mounting up. Another trick for keeping the plastic on OHVs shiny and clean is to wipe it with a product like MopNGlo, which gives a waxy shine that also helps deflect dirt and mud so its easier to clean next time.
I also like to use SC-1 on hard surfaces on my gear (helmet, chest protector, boots, goggle frames, and plastic parts of gloves) to keep them looking good and easier to clean.
Keeping your gear clean and in good condition not only maintains your image, but improves safety. Take the time the clean and inspect your gear after every outing. Note any repairs needed. A small tear in your riding pants or jersey will only get larger over time and increases the chances of catching on something and causing further damage to the item or even causing an accident or injury. It might also be a port for an unwanted cool breeze too. Repair rips and tears or replace damaged items as soon as possible. OHV gear is kind of pricey so you want to get as much use out of each item as you can. Nylon repair tape like that used for tents or sails can sometimes be used to make satisfactory repairs to riding gear and it comes in many colors. Given the way OHV gloves are armored on the back side, it is likely you'll wear out the palms or fingertips first. Worn gloves will still offer some valuable protection to your knuckles, but you may be headed for blisters on your palms or fingers if they're worn through. Sore hands are not only uncomfortable, but a safety hazard since you cannot grip as effectively and you may relinquish some control, making you more susceptible to bumps and bounces that might separate you from your ride and launch you off in a direction you hadn't planned to go. And you don't have to land on pavement or in a pile of rocks to get hurt. Even sand dunes and grass have remarkably hard surfaces when you impact on them. Helmets need to be inspected regularly and, if you've done a get off where you banged your head pretty hard, your helmet should be replaced, even if there are no visible signs of damage. The padding and energy absorbing materials inside that provide a significant part of the protection may be compromised without any visible evidence. When this happens they can be damaged to where they've lost the ability to protect your head. There is no non-destructive way to test the padding in a helmet. Manufacturers have to remove the padding and cut it apart and test it to determine whether or not it has been compromised. That's how they test them during development. Keep your goggles clean and make sure the strap isn't frayed or too stretched out to be usable. There are a number of good lens cleaners on the market. One called "Cat Crap" claims to have been #1 for more than 15 years. It is a green, waxy substance that cleans lenses and leaves an anti-fog coating that works pretty well. Don't let the name turn you off. It looks more like snot than crap and it is really good stuff. I have also used a 3-part Novus plastic cleaner very successfully for years for cleaning goggles. The three solutions vary in abrasiveness to first remove heavy scratches, then lighter scratches, and eventually polish the the lens. Often only the polish is needed to get goggles ready to use. Rain-X manufactures a good anti-fog compound for the inside of our goggles. Most good lens cleaners help repel dust and dirt so your goggles also stay cleaner longer. As I mentioned before, I also like to use SC-1 on my goggle frames to clean and protect them. I try to avoid getting in on the lenses because it leaves a coating that may interfere with anti-fog coatings if not thoroughly dried or buffed out. Boots need to be cleaned and the plastic (and even the leather) parts can also benefit from some SC-1. Check to make sure all the buckles are complete and working smoothly. Sometimes grit gets trapped in the buckles and makes them hard to move. Check the metal tips, replace lost nails, and pound any loose nails back in before the tips come off. Check the soles. Standing on foot pegs and kick starting machines takes it toll on the sole and they get worn from using your feet as ground guides in tight turns. If the soles are getting smooth or showing signs of getting a notch where you stand on the pegs (a VERY common occurrence), it is time to have the soles replaced or get some new boots. Replacement soles can be purchased online for $35 to $60. Then you'll have to pay a shoe repair shop to install them. But that's still a lot cheaper than $300-$400 for new boots! I've only had to replace soles once and was very pleased with the results.
Plastic chest protectors sometimes get cracked. The best solution is to replace them before the damaged portion becomes a chest penetrator instead of a chest protector. However, if your budget is tight you might get away with making some temporary repairs by drilling holes along both sides of the crack and securing it with small cable ties. If you have a plastic welding kit and an skill using it you might be able to repair the damage that way. Chest protectors are good candidates for treating with SC-1 for a like-new appearance too.
Regular OHV Maintenance. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in your owners manual to ensure maximum performance, longevity, and reliability of your OHV. Proper lubrication is essential, especially since most OHVs are subjected to a lot of harsh conditions (dust, vibration, weather, difficult terrain). Proper adjustment of clutch, brake, and shift levers and drive chains are critical for safety, performance, and reliability. Keep your chain properly adjusted and inspect and oil it before every ride. Nothing will shut you down quite like a thrown or broken chain. Furthermore, when a chain comes off, it often gets "stacked" against the transmission case and can cause severe damage. I've seen them jam the shift lever hard enough to crack the transmission case. Change your oil and oil filter as prescribed in your owner's manual. Clean or at least examine air filters and check oil levels before every ride. A dirty filter has a detrimental effect on performance, mileage, and reliability. Low oil can cause serious damage. We neglected to maintain the oil level in my wife's new Honda CRF250X and ended up with a $2800 rebuild! Always make sure your filter is properly installed and secured. I once had an air filter sabotaged by anti-OHV interests while my bike was unattended in a parking lot during an OHV service project. I didn't realize it until it was too late and I'd sucked enough dirt and sand into the engine to destroy the rings! If you think I'm just paranoid about the sabotage, during that same service project, there was a group of guys following along behind us, tearing down the trail signs after we erected them. They were then dumb enough to try to ride through a group of about 200 riders and 6 rangers with the signs still in the back of their pickup! They received a fist-full of citations and all the signs were confiscated by the rangers before they were allowed to proceed. The riders showed an amazing amount of constraint in that they allowed the offenders to continue on their way once the rangers were done with them, but they sure did a good job of keeping them around while the rangers confronted them!
Remember that list I suggested you make while cleaning your bike? Be sure to go down the list and take care of all the needed items before you forget and before you put your ride away until the next trip! You don't want to have to scramble to make repairs as you get ready to hit the road. Tighten all loose fasteners, replace missing pieces, adjust levers and chains, check tire pressures, check air filters, check oil levels, make sure your lights are working (if so equipped). Lubricate all cables. Many newer machines have hydraulic brake and clutch systems, but just about every OHV has a throttle cable. Invest a few bucks in a "cable oiler". This is small device that clamps around the end of the cable. It has a hole for you to insert a tube from a can of spray lubricant (such as WD-40) so you can pressure oil the entire cable. Loosen the cable at the handle-bar end to attach the oiler. Clamp it around the end of the cable and tighten it. Insert the lubricant tube in the appropriate fitting. Then spray lubricant until it appears at the lower end of the cable on the engine. You might be surprised how much better your throttle (or brake or clutch) works with a properly lubricated cable. Loose or damaged grips can be a safety hazard, so replace them as soon as possible. Spray a little hairspray into new grips to make them easier to slide on. When it dries it will also help hold the grips tight. In cold weather, warming the grips will also make them easier to install. Put them in a warm room or tuck them inside your shirt for a while before trying to push them onto the bars.
Upholstery (seat) repairs. Because the seat is made of a soft material, it is particularly susceptible to damage. Sunlight and weather alone will cause a certain amount of deterioration, but impact with sharp objects, even buckles on your riding boots, can cause rips and tears. Quick emergency repairs can be made with duct tape or vinyl tape and may limit further damage until permanent repairs can be made. Large rips and tears may need to be sewed. Smaller ones can sometimes be repaired using RTV silicone or even Goop glue. You may be able to repair small tears using vinyl upholstery repairs kits. They include an appropriately colored liquid you paint over the tear and textured "papers" to attempt to match the original surface. New covers are available to fit most machines to correct severely worn or damaged seats without having to buy a whole new seat. If no replacement seat cover is available to fit your machine, any good upholstery shop should be able to make a new one for you. Having one custom-made gives you more options to choose the color and express your individuality. I previously cautioned against using SC-1 on your seat, because it makes it to slippery. I like to apply a coat of SC-1 AFTER riding (when the bike is going back into storage for a while) to renew the seat material and protect it during storage until the next ride. Usually it will have soaked in and dried enough by the next time I'm ready to take my bike out. That way, it isn't as slippery and yet I get the benefits of the silicone to preserve the vinyl of the seat. If you go riding again soon, be sure to thoroughly buff the seat to remove residual conditioner. If it is still too slick, toss a handful of fine dirt on it. It isn't pretty and may get the seat of your pants dusty, but it beats sliding off the bike!
If you keep your OHV and your gear clean and in good repair they should provide many years of pleasant and enjoyable service. You will feel better if your OHV and gear are clean and in good condition and you will be safer and have less chance of mechanical breakdown out on the trail. A well-kept machine will have better trade-in or re-sale value when its time to upgrade.
Happy OHVing!
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