Putting Together an OHV Ride and Enjoying It

Over the years we've done a lot of dirt bike riding ranging from informal family rides to sanctioned Grand Prix and desert races, and many of the highlights of our OHV activities have occurred during family rides. Races and other events require a lot of formal organization, planning, and coordination with land managers, but even family rides require some preparation and planning. If you want to lead a larger group, you need even more preparation.

If you are new to the sport, you'll want to hook up with someone who knows the trails you want to ride and get them to let you tag along for your first few outings. Getting lost during your first few rides is likely to put quite a damper on your enthusiasm for the sport.  Once you're familiar with the area, you'll feel confident in leading your own family or group.  Whether you're leading a ride or following someone who is, there are basic rules your need to be aware of to have fun and make the most of your ride.

Before beginning any ride you should have a route or destination in mind.   That gives participants some idea of how long and how difficult -- and how fun -- the ride is going to be.  Choosing a route or a destination might be up to the ride leader, but sometimes it is a negotiation among the expected participants.  Knowing where you're going can help you from getting lost or separated from the group -- or can help you reconnect if you do part ways.

Key positions for any ride are ride leader and sweep. The ride leader, obviously leads the ride. He (or she) chooses the route and sets the pace. It takes some knowledge of the terrain and experience leading rides to select appropriate routes and to set a good pace.  It needs to be fast enough to keep the ride interesting and  not too fast or too difficult for any novice riders in the group.  You also need to consider the equipment and skills your riders have.   Trails that are perfectly acceptable for dirt bikes aren't always passable on ATVs.  Technically challenging trails are fun for experienced riders but scary and dangerous for newbies.  Sweep is the last rider in the group. I kind of ended up riding sweep by default when my family first started riding.  I didn't want to hold anyone up and I wanted to stay behind all of my kids and so I could help them out if they had any trouble. I felt more comfortable knowing, that as a novice rider, I wasn't holding anyone up. But usually you should choose an experienced rider to ride sweep, someone who knows the terrain and is capable of handling mechanical and medical emergencies and lending whatever assistance anyone he "sweeps" may need. I was flattered when I learned it was actually a kind of compliment that I was allowed to ride sweep so early in my off roading career. Fortunately I did have mechanical and first aid skills and a pretty good sense of direction.  I was also paranoid enough about getting left behind that I kept a pretty good eye on where the group was going and did my best to keep up.

Regardless of whether you're leading just your family or a whole group of riders, your first step is to decide where you are going to go. That may mean choosing a destination or just a particular trail or trail system you want to explore. In choosing a route, consider the types of OHVs and the experience and expectations of the riders. If your group includes ATVs you will want to avoid single-track trails that are only suitable for dirt bikes and mountain bikes. If you have novices in the group, you will want to steer clear of extremely technical or difficult trails. That doesn't mean you can't still have fun. A trail doesn't have to beat you or your OHV to pieces to be fun. An experienced fellow rider and former desert racer once told me "If  a trail isn't fun at 25 mph, it isn't a fun trail!"  On the other hand, it doesn't have to be and shouldn't be completely mundane or boring. Look for interesting terrain: roller coaster hills, twisty-turny trails through the trees, brush, or rocks, maybe add an easy hill climb or two if everyone in your group is up to it. Including interesting historical or geological features make it fun and provide opportunities for an occasional rest stop. Abandoned cabins and mines, special or unusual rock formations, and even weird or especially picturesque trees are good points of interest.  Whenever approaching especially difficult or technical terrain, plan an alternate route around the more troublesome portions for the less experienced or less adventurous riders. You can pretty much count on it being better and faster to wait for them to go around than to have to carry them back to camp if they break down or are injured. Your "destination" might be a specific landmark, like a cabin, ruins, rock formation, stream, a look out tower, mountain top, or sometimes even a town or a store. Or you might plan a ride to take advantage of a particular known trail. Or you might just decide to "go play around in those hills over there". Any of these are acceptable plans. Just make sure everyone in your group knows your intentions and that you leave your plans with someone at base camp before you take off, and then stick to the plan. Sometimes we choose routes that allow alternate paths for faster and more skilled riders to enjoy a little "hot dogging" to keep things interesting for them. In open riding areas they can ride a parallel course at their own speed -- and wait for the slower riders at pre-designated rest stops. In limited use areas it is important to keep all riders on designated trails. If you have riders of varying skills, you may want to break into more than one group so people of like skill can ride together without pressuring or inconveniencing those of other levels.

Setting the pace. Once again, the experience and equipment in the group you are leading and the difficulty of the route will determine what is an appropriate pace. Experienced dirt bikers like to go fast. However, as I mentioned before, a seasoned rider friend of mine and former desert racer said, "If a trail isn't fun at 25 mph, it isn't a fun trail!" That means, you don't have to be going "flat out" all the time! Sometimes it is more fun to actually see the scenery instead of just a blur, especially if you've chosen your route well. You don't have to be full throttle all the time! ATVs are typically not quite as maneuverable as dirt bikes so you may need to adjust speed to ensure you don't leave any of your group behind if ATVs are included.  ATVs also require wider trails and are not stable crossing steep slopes that dirt bikes take in stride.  Likewise, the experience level of all riders must be considered. Give it a little more time and take it easy if you have young, novice, or timid riders in your group. Gender is not usually a necessary consideration.  My younger daughter was perfectly able of keeping up with the adults when she was 12.  Perceptions of difficulty change as riders develop more skills and confidence. When my kids were young they often begged to go along on the "daddy ride" with me and my adult friends. By the time they boys were teens, it changed dramatically to "I don't want to go on that old man's ride!" -- speaking of the same group of riders on the same kinds of machines and the same proposed routes.

Manage the size of your group. Large groups are difficult to keep track of out on the trail and can present hazards for other groups of riders. One of the best ways to ensure safety is to manage the size of a group of riders and if you get more than about a dozen, break it up into sub-groups, each with its own experienced leader.You can head to the same destinations and follow the same trails.   All riders should know that, if they should get separated from the group, to wait at the last confirmed trail intersection that they know where the group went. Sometimes, in desert terrain, you can locate your group by riding to the top of a nearby hill and looking for riders or dust trails. Just don't lose track of where you need to return to get to that known intersection if you have to stop and wait for them to come back for you! You can keep both groups close together, but having two separate groups divides the responsibility and makes it easier to keep track of everyone on the trail. It is good to have a general idea where your group is headed so you don't follow the wrong dust trail. Finding out you've caught up to the wrong group is embarrassing and wastes a lot of time and by then you will have lost any chance of finding the right dust trail again.

Hands signals. Ordinary driving hand signals are applicable to OHV riding: left turn (left arm straight out), right turn (left arm at the square), slow/stop (left arm down or moved in a downward patting motion). In addition, you will see people holding up a number of fingers (hopefully not just a raised middle finger) when approaching another group of riders coming toward them on the same trail. The number of fingers held up indicates the number of additional riders behind the rider giving the signal. The last rider in the group should raise his hand with all fingers closed and the palm facing the oncoming rider, indicating "zero riders behind me" -- end of the line. Turning the back of the hand toward oncoming riders may be interpreted as an aggressive gesture, especially if you punch the air! Since you only have 5 fingers on one hand it is difficult to represent larger numbers of riders behind you. Displaying an open hand lets the on coming rider know there are AT LEAST 5 more riders behind you. As each rider continues to display an open hand until there are fewer than 5 riders behind you. I've seen guys try to signal 18 riders behind them by repeatedly opening and closing their hands, but it is time consuming, the rider watching you probably isn't counting, and most likely you have better things to do with that hand to keep comfortable control of your machine as you approach oncoming traffic.  You always need to know where you are in the group.  Not everyone knows or cares to use this technique, but it is definitely good trail etiquette to do so and even if you don't use it you should be able to recognize the signals when someone else gives them.

Keeping track of everyone. The larger the group, the more difficult it is to keep track of everyone. Make sure that every rider knows he or she is responsible for the rider behind them. Each rider must look back at every intersection to make sure the rider following them saw where the group went and makes the correct turn. It is always good to remind even experienced riders to keep track of the rider behind them. Some "hot dogs" have a tendency to take off on their own and totally forget about and lose track of the riders behind them. I'd a lot rather make sure slower riders are staying with the group than waste my gas and time having to go back and look for them while the rest of the group bakes in the desert sun! Sometimes we "allow" a group of hot-doggers to run a parallel course as long as they keep the main group in sight. That way they can set their own speed on each section without having to wait for slower riders in front or behind of them.  The only downside is they are usually rested and raring to go by the time the rest of the group catches up with them at each rest stop.  You should always to be able to count on following your group by staying on the trail or road you're on.  If they leave the trail or branch off, each rider should wait for the one behind him to make the turn before heading off to catch up with the group.  If you lose sight of the rider in front of you, just keep going on the same trail.  If you come to an intersection stop and wait there for someone to come back for you.

"Sweep" rider. Choose a competent rider who knows the area to ride "sweep". That is the last rider in the group and he/she will be responsible for "picking up the pieces" -- looking out for anyone who as fallen behind or gotten lost. There are many reasons someone may fall behind. They may not be able to keep up with the group due to inexperience or lack of confidence or perhaps they've experienced mechanical problems or may have had an accident and/or been injured or become ill. In spite of my personal history, riding sweep isn't a job for the slowest or newest rider. Ideally, the sweep rider should be fully capable of dealing with any emergency (navigational, medical or equipment) and be able to lead stragglers back to camp, on to the destination, or to help if necessary.   Sometimes the sweep rider may have to race ahead to catch up with the ride leader to communicate with them about a rider who has fallen behind and may need help.  For added safety and convenience, when possible, the leader and the sweep rider could carry two-way radios to keep in touch.  We've even used them in the desert to communicate between two different ride groups on different routes.

NEVER push any rider to ride beyond their limits. It is good to encourage new riders to develop and improve their skills, but pushing them too far too fast is a proven recipe for disaster! I'd a whole lot rather wait for someone to catch up than have to carry them back to camp when they break down or get hurt going faster than they should or trying to navigate a technical section that is beyond their abilities. When my oldest son was a teenager, he took a couple of inexperienced friends riding with him.  One of them crashed so hard trying to keep up with the more experienced riders that he had to be air lifted out to the nearest hospital.  When we reach a particularly difficult section, I break the group into two sub-groups and provide an alternate leader for an alternate route around the difficult section. There is a time and a place for new riders to push their limits, and unless you design and promote a ride specifically as a "skill builder" and everyone knows what to expect, you don't want riders forced into pushing their personal envelopes too far to where they may injure themselves or someone else in the group. Skill builder rides are an excellent tool for introducing new riders to the sport and improving everyone's skill level. Just ease into it so they can actually build the skills they need before you lead them into extremely technical terrain. Its OK for riders to choose to push themselves a little bit and more experienced riders should support them and mentor them. That is how they develop their skill. But don't put peer pressure on them to tackle technical sections or speeds that are way beyond their current capabilities. That is a sure recipe for disaster -- and having to carry an injured rider and/or broken machine back to camp. And THAT can spoil your whole trip in a big hurry. My teen age son had a novice friend (mentioned above) who, being an invincible teenager, thought he could keep up with the group and ended up being airlifted to the hospital instead when he lost control and crashed hard.  And it wasn't even a  particularly difficult section of trail.  You may have to form your own judgements about a rider's capabilities and not take his/her word for it.  Some new riders will be vastly over confident, some grossly timid about their skills.  It will likely be up to you to mediate behavior of both types.

Take frequent breaks. Stop every few miles at the very least to make sure you haven't lost anyone and to see how every one is doing and if the pace is satisfactory. You may be encouraged to pick up the pace or, on rare occasions, to back it down a bit. Either way, you won't know unless you take time to find out. If you find you are frequently waiting a long time for slower riders to catch up, you may need to slow the pace or choose less difficult trails. Perhaps you can pair novice riders with experienced partners to help them improve their skills. Each time you stop, ask the newer members of the group if they can point the way back to camp, to your destination, or some prominent landmark. This helps riders learn the terrain and ensure they can find their way back if they should get separated from the group. Knowing they will be asked will encourage them to keep better track of where they are as they go. It is also a nice confidence builder for young and novice riders and can be kind of a fun game. All too often riders get tunnel vision and focus on just following the person in front of them.  When they do that they quickly lose track of landmarks and any sense of direction for the way back to camp.  Frequent checks on their observations is a good way to help them remember to pay attention to their environment and the route.

Skill builder rides. To help new riders develop their skills you WILL want to schedule skill builder rides. The route you choose for a skill builder depends on type of equipment, new rider existing skill levels, and what particular skills you want to work on. Hill climbing techniques are very different from those required to negotiate sand washes. Even riding flat smooth terrain, such as a dry lake, has its own specific techniques. A skill builder ride might include any or all types of terrain, but make sure your riders know what to expect so they don't find themselves not only in unfamiliar territory, but in over their heads! No one is going to build any useful skills by tumbling down a mountain side, only by learning the right way to successfully negotiate it. Falling may dramatically point out what NOT to do, but it is an unnecessarily painful way to learn. Much better to start with moderately difficult terrain and work your way up to the tougher stuff as folks are ready. I first learned to negotiate drop offs by "jumping" off a 1' bank into a sand wash. Over time I developed the confidence and skills to handle much larger drop offs of 6'or more. Since deep rain ruts and sand washes are common surprises in desert terrain, being able to handle them is an important skill.  Technical tip:  keep the front wheel up when landing from any jump.  Landing front wheel first will increase the likelihood of crashing!

Before embarking on any ride, check your equipment and safety gear. Top off your fuel, check the oil, check coolant (if applicable), check tire pressures, check your on-board tool kit.  Check your OHV for any loose fasteners.  They can be easily tightened in camp and may cause serious problems if you loose part of your machine out on the trail!    Make sure every rider is properly equipped with the right safety gear and has sufficient water and fuel to accommodate their needs for the intended length of the trip.

Let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. You or someone in your group could encounter unexpected medical or mechanical problems or have an accident out on the trail. Even if you are just taking a short family ride out away from camp on local trails, let someone in camp know. That way, if you don't come back at a reasonable time, they'll have some idea when and where to come looking for you.

More formal rides. Some folks like the spontaneity of last-minute rides to local attractions near a base camp. A carefully chosen base camp will offer a variety of rides. We usually count on 2-4 hours per ride. Most of our family OHV activity has been of that type. Others may prefer more formal activities, like the week-long rides sponsored by the Utah Trail Machine Association. Some of these rides include Copper Canyon and Baja in Mexico, their Utah 500 (from Mapleton to St George), and a ride to Ouray, Colorado. They schedule a ride in Utah on a trail called "Five Miles of Hell" that is designed specifically for expert riders.  The trail is actually about 20 miles long but it is indeed, ONLY for Class-A, top-notch technical riders and includes at least fives miles of hell.  In any case, proper planning and preparation are essential to having a safe and enjoyable ride. Multi-day rides may require overnight motel accommodations or bringing along some camping gear, depending on the route, the terrain, and the weather.

Mental preparation is also part of putting together a good ride and enjoying it.   If  you're familiar with the trail you can remember the most enjoyable parts and look forward to them again.  If it is new to you, you can anticipate seeing new territory and conquering new challenges.  Either way, set  your mind to have fun -- and then go do it!

Most important of all:  HAVE FUN!  Afterall, we go riding for the fun of it, so make every ride fun.  Try exploring new trails or new destinations.  Sometimes just riding a familiar trail backwards adds interest.  Some downhills may now become hill climbs and who knows what you might see while riding from a different perspective.

Happy riding!

Tent Camping Post Trip Procedures

Proper post camping trip procedures help keep your equipment in good condition, keep your gear organized in storage, and make your next trip easier. Remove all perishable foods and clean your ice chest. I like to use a strong window cleaner with ammonia to sanitize my ice chest to avoid mildew. Leave the lid open for a while for it to dry completely before closing it up and storing it. Check your cleaning supplies and non-perishable provisions and replenish anything that is getting low or nearly used up or has a damaged container. Review the list you made during your trip to remind yourself of items you need to add or remove and services or repairs needed. Keep the list in a prominent place and review it frequently until you have completed all items on the list.  Return perishable items to their proper place in your home.

If you use a porta-potty, make sure you dump it, flush it, and add chemicals to the holding tank. Leaving it sit for a while filled with sewage will create a very unpleasant situation the next time you take it out. Unless there is a chance of freezing, re-fill the fresh water supply tank on the porta-potty so it will be ready to go for your next trip. It is usually easier to remember to refill it when you clean it than when you load it up next time. If you have to carry it up or down stairs you might want to postpone re-filling since water weighs 8 pounds per gallon and 5 gallons of water would add 40 pounds to the weight of the unit.  Just remember to refill it before your next trip.

Spills and crumbs or wet spots left in a tent will attract pests (insects, rodents, and micro organisms like fungus, mold, and mildew) and you'll have a very unpleasant surprise the next time you want to use it. Thoroughly sweep out your tent and wash off any spills or stains.   Let it dry before rolling it up.  Sap and bird droppings are particularly damaging to tent fabric so clean them off as soon as possible.  Damp fabric is likely to develop mold and mildew which is not only unpleasant and unsanitary, it may damage the fabric.  So make sure your tents, sleeping bags, and packs are thoroughly dry before you put them away.

Even a clean tent or sleeping bag will tend to develop a stale odor in storage, especially if it is put away damp. Even if you didn't have any rain the fabric may have absorbed moisture from perspiration, the breathing of occupants, from morning dew, or from the grass and/or ground beneath it. If you suspect your tent or sleeping bag is damp, hang it out to air dry for a day or two before rolling it up and putting it in storage.  And don't roll sleeping bags tight for long term storage.  It will crush the loft and destroy the insulating value. 

Sleeping bags should be aired out and thoroughly dry before you store them.   The best way to store them is to open them up and hang them.  Keeping them rolled can crush the fill, ruining the insulating quality, especially if they're rolled tightly.  Using a "stuff sack" instead of rolling them tightly reduces the chances of over-compression.

Clean your stoves and lanterns and, if you store them inside your house, remove the fuel.  Storing fuel containers inside your house or even an attached garage is dangerous.  Ideally they should be stored in a metal cabinet or shed separate from your residence.

As you're cleaning, take inventory of your supplies, sundries, tools etc. Make a list of things you need to replace or restock. Make sure everything is put away in its proper place. Things often get moved about during a trip and you may not remember where you stashed things by the next trip if they're not in their proper place. You might even want to go over your pre-trip checklist so you can replenish depleted supplies and make necessary repairs before your next trip.

Now, pat your self on the back, have a nice dinner, and get a good night's sleep!

RV Post Trip Procedures

Almost as important as trip preparation is what you do when you come home from a trip.  Proper post-trip clean-up will keep your RV in better shape and make your next outing easier.  Be sure to dump and rinse your holding tanks and refresh holding tank chemicals on the way home. Things can really nasty if you store your RV with dirty holding tanks!  Also stop and re-fill your fuel tank and propane. Be sure to shut off all pilot lights when refueling. Leave the main propane valve shut off when you are done filling the tank. When you get home, re-fill your fresh water tank (unless weather dictates that it be drained to prevent freezing, in which case follow normal winterizing procedures). If you are in freezing weather, add RV antifreeze to the drains and into the holding tanks to prevent the pipes and valves from freezing.

Remove all perishable foods from your RV and clean the refrigerator. I like to use a strong window cleaner with ammonia to clean and sanitize my refrigerator and microwave oven. Turn the fridge off and leave the door slightly open while it is not in use.  You can buy little wire devices to hold the door slightly open but keep it from swinging around when the RV is in motion.  Remove ice cube trays or at least dump out the ice. I usually store full ice cube trays in the freezer in the house so they'll be ready for the next trip. Remove bedding, towels, etc. you have used and wash them before returning them to the unit. While you have the bedding out, it is a good time to vacuum the mattress. Do a thorough interior cleaning job -- cleaning sinks, toilet, bath/shower, stove, ovens, counter tops and tables, Clean all the floors. Sweep and mop hard surfaces, thoroughly vacuum carpets. Spot clean carpets as needed. Take any throw rugs out and shake them. If they're really soiled, wash them.  Vacuum upholstered furniture. Remove extra clothing you brought along just for this trip. Remove prescription drugs. Return CDs and movies to your home. Plug in your battery charger/maintainer or, if you have an adequate built-in charger, plug in the shore power line. Check your cleaning supplies and replenish anything that is getting low, deteriorating, nearly used up, or has a damaged container. Review the list you made during your trip to remind yourself of items you need to add or remove and services or repairs needed. Keep the list in a prominent place and review it frequently until you have completed all items on the list.

Spills and crumbs left in an RV will attract pests (insects and rodents) and you'll have a very unpleasant surprise the next time you want to take it out. Check inside all the cabinets and cupboards to make sure no foodstuffs that may attract invaders is left behind. Clean up any spills. If you find what look like grains of black rice in your cabinets or drawers, you've got mice.  Larger deposits may mean rats, chipmunks, squirrels, raccoons, or skunks.  Leave a mouse bait like Decon to discourage them.  Decon is a poison so handle it carefully and keep it out of reach of kids and pets.  Decon includes a desicant that dries out the corpses so they don't rot and smell if they die inside a wall or other inaccessible area.

Even a clean RV will tend to develop a stale odor in storage. I like to hang an automotive air freshener or two in mine to keep it smelling nice. Don't over do the air fresheners. If there are any leaks in the roof or around windows or in the plumbing, strong air fresheners may disguise the musty odor and prevent you from noticing the problem before it has done serious structural and cosmetic damage.  Any leftover cooking odors in upholstery, curtains, bedding, and carpeting can usually be mitigated with a fabric freshener like Fabreze.  Of course any serious spills or stains on carpet or upholstery should be thoroughly cleaned.  You will want to wash towels, sheets, and pillowcases so they will be fresh for your next trip.

As you're cleaning, take inventory of your supplies, sundries, tools etc. Make a list of things you need to replace or restock. Make sure everything is put away in its proper place. Things often get moved about during a trip and you may not remember where you stashed things by the next trip if they're not in their proper place. You might even want to go over your pre-trip checklist so you can replenish depleted supplies and make necessary repairs before your next trip instead of waiting until the last minute.

If you don't plan to use the RV again for several months, it is a good idea to take at least some of the weight off the tires if you can using stabilizing jacks (the old term is "putting it up on blocks"). If you park on concrete or damp ground it is a good idea to put a wooden "buffer board" under each tire to protect the rubber.

I usually remove the trailer hitch and store it in an appropriate location. Leaving it installed invites two undesirable scenarios: banged shins when you walk behind your vehicle (VERY painful!) and loss of the expensive hitch and ball to thieves -- also painful, but in another location a little higher up -- your wallet!

If you have the time and energy, it is a good idea to wash your RV before storing it. Frequent cleaning makes the job easier and prevents buildup of road film that can damage RV finishes. Think the bugs on the windshield are hard to get off after a trip?  Just wait until they've had a chance to bake in the summer sun for a few weeks!

Now, go inside, have a nice dinner, and get a good night's sleep!

Pre-Trip Procedures

A good pre-trip routine is essential to having a successful outing. Doesn't matter if you're RVing, boating, or tent camping, whether you're going to be riding OHVs or just kicking back, being well-prepared will make things go smoother and you'll have more fun. It is way too easy to forget something you need if you're in a rush or aren't well prepared. I like to use checklists so I make sure I don't forget anything important.

First things first.   In order to plan a trip  you need to know several things to start with:  where are you going?  When?  How many people?  What activities are planned?  Any special equipment required?  Any special diet  needs?  Any special medical needs?  Any weather issues?  You will need to consider and address all of these issues in order to plan a trip.


RV/Vehicle Preparation. Hopefully you keep your RV and/or tow vehicle ready to go and only need to go over your final checklist to make sure everything is ship-shape before departure. Plug in your RV a day or two before departure and put the fridge on electric to cool down the fridge. Make sure your holding tanks are empty and your fresh water tank is appropriately filled for the trip. You only need a little water for a short trip to a full-hookups campground but the tank should be topped off if you're going to be dry camping in a primitive or remote camping area. Check your fuel levels. Make sure you have enough propane for your intended stay and top off your motor fuel. Remember you'll use more propane during cold weather than on summer outings. Check fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake fluid). Check tire pressure. Check your on board provisions: foods, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, linens, spare clothing. Check to make sure your tools are on board and accessible. Clean the windshield, all the windows, mirrors, and lights.   Check the windshield wipers and lights.  Of course if you are going boating you will also need to inspect your boat and associated equipment before heading out onto the water.

If you're tent camping, pre-cool your ice chest.  Since most of us don't have access to large freeze big enough to hold an ice chest the easiest way to pre-cool one is probably to sacrifice a bag of ice to put in a day or two ahead of your trip to cool it down.  Then dump out the melted water (keep any left over ice), add your provision, and a new bag of ice.  Make sure your car is ready for the trip (top off fuel, clean windows, check oil, coolant, tires, belts, hoses, lights, tools, spare tire, etc).

Menu planning. Plan your menus well in advance so you can build up your stock instead of waiting to the last minute and running up a big grocery bill. I often use a computer spread sheet to plan my menus. I set it up for the number of people and the number of days as variables so it can calculate quantities for my shopping list. Having a pre-planned menu may seem to take some of the spontaneity out of your outing, but in my experience it makes things easier and removes some of the hassle of deciding on and preparing meals in camp. Sometimes, if you've planned some special treats, it gives you something to look forward to.  If weather or personal preferences change you might want to switch things around to fit your needs but you'll at least have all the meals covered.

Camping gear. Even if you're camping in an RV you'll probably have some camping gear to get ready. And, of course, if you're tent camping, you'll need to prepare your tent and sleeping gear. Check to make sure all the poles and stakes are present and accounted for and that all the zippers work and that there are no un-mended holes or tears. Take time to set up your tent so you can be sure everything is there and in good shape -- and you remember how to set it up! Be sure you have your ground cloth and that it is in good condition. Check your camp chairs to see if they need cleaning or repair. Check lanterns and stoves. White gas powered units have manual pumps that sometimes need maintenance or repair.  Sometimes its as easy as adding a little oil to saturate the leather washer in the pump.  You'll want to find and fix anything that needs it now, not when you are ready to use it in camp.  Its a real pain to fumble around in the dark trying to service a lantern pump or get the stove going to cook dinner.  Check your sleeping bags to make sure they haven't gained any wanted insect or rodent inhabitants during storage.  If they've been properly stored (hanging up so they can air out and maintain loft of the fill), you will need to roll them up and put them in their bags.  If you stored them rolled up, unroll them and check the fill. If it is flattened out, the bag isn't going to keep you warm.  You might be able to restore loft by tossing them in the dryer with a few tennis balls for a few minutes so the warm and and tumbling can restore the loft.

Route planning. If you're headed to a favorite destination you probably don't need maps but you should check weather and traffic conditions. Accidents,  road repairs, and construction can deliver unwelcome delays on even your most familiar routes.  For new destinations, plot your course on a map or use an online map service like Mapquest or Google Maps or program it into your GPS navigation system. Be sure to look for possible attractions or side trips along the way and leave time in your schedule if you want to take advantage of these opportunities.  Check weather and traffic conditions before you leave home so you won't be caught by surprise when its too late to do anything about it except wait it out.

Leaving your home. You'll want to either stop mail and newspaper delivery if you're going to be gone for more than a day or two or have a friend or neighbor pick them up every day. If you have pets or other animals you'll need to arrange for their care during your absence. I like to set up at least one light on a random timer so the house looks lived in at night. If you're going to be gone more than say a weekend, notify your local police department so they can watch for suspicious activity while you're gone. Be sure to close and lock all the doors and windows before you leave and, if you have an alarm system, set the alarm. In hot weather you may need to arrange for someone to water your lawn and other plants if they're not on automatic sprinkler system.  Be sure to let the police know when you get home so they don't think YOU are suspicious!

Prepare your recreational equipment.  Whether its an OHV, personal water craft, or just fishing gear, sporting goods, or kid's toys, make sure you have everything you're going to need and that is in good repair and ready to use and no parts are missing.

Final loading. You will want to load food and needed clothing just before you leave. Leave any frozen or refrigerated foods in the freezer or fridge as long as possible. Avoid loading perishable foods or medicines way ahead of time, especially if your vehicle will be exposed to temperature extremes before your departure. Grab any CDs, DVDs, or VHS tapes you may want to bring along and stow them. Again, it is important not to load them way in advance if it would expose them to temperatures or humidity that could damage them.

Mental preparation.  Since most of us are so thoroughly ensconced in our daily ruts, it is worth spending a little time mentally preparing for an outing.  Try to wrap up and leave behind any loose ends at work and psyche yourself out toward just having a good time.  Its OK to look forward to each trip and go over planned activities in your mind -- as long as you don't obsess over it.

Have a good trip!

Dust Storms

Camping, hiking, horseback riding, or riding an OHV in a dust storm is not something most of us would do on purpose or would ever want to do. But if your activities take you into remote locations, especially desert locations (which are popular OHV and equestrian venues) you may encounter an unexpected dust storm.

It is unlikely you'll experience dust storms the magnitude of the one in the movie Hildago anywhere in the United States, but wind just about anywhere can kick up enough dust from dry desert areas, fallow fields, or construction sites to be a problem. And you can encounter "dust devils" just about anywhere especially in the desert. Dust storms stirred up by monsoon winds in southern Arizona can come up surprisingly fast and be extremely thick, seriously limiting visibility and sometimes quickly clogging vehicle air filters.

Dust devils are not usually particularly dangerous unless you happen to be smack in the middle of one. They are essentially mini-tornados. They are usually short lived and not strong enough to cause much damage. Your biggest concern if you're caught in one or overtaken by one will be your eyes. They can kick up quite a bit of small debris that can be very painful and dangerous if it blows into your eyes. If you're on horseback, you'll need to consider your horse's eyes too. On an OHV, the engine might suck up debris from the spinning wind so "dust busting" by riding through them to disrupt them is not a good idea. Sucking crap into the engine might be a quick way to make it seize or to bore it out a few over sizes, which pretty much wipes out compression.  You don't even want to think about what it could do to your lungs -- or your eyes!

If a dust storm is approaching your base camp, make sure everything is securely tied down or properly stored inside. Blowing dust means there is wind!  Close all the windows and vents on your tent or RV. Roll up awnings and put away canopies. Put away your camp chairs, inside if you have room but if not, even putting them under your vehicle will give them some protection from blowing away. If you leave your OHVs outside, cover the air intakes to prevent dust from blowing in and clogging the air filter and possibly damaging the engine.

If you get caught in a dust storm out on the trail, seek shelter as soon as possible. If you have enough warning, head back to camp and secure your camp. If you can't get back to camp before it hits you, look for any kind of shelter -- a cave, a thicket, even a gully (if there is no chance of flash flooding in the area). Dust storms reduce visibility and increase the probability of accidents, so slow down until you can find shelter. If you're in an open area with no shelter available, stop, stuff your gloves, bandana, or other spare clothing into the air intake of your OHV, and use your vehicle to provide your body some protection against the wind and debris. Keep your goggles on or cover your face to protect your eyes. Breathe through a neckerchief or bandana. If you don't have one (and you should if you've been paying attention to this blog's recommendations for riding gear), pull your jersey or T-shirt up over your mouth and nose to filter out as much dust as you can.   Your tummy may get dusty and cold but your lungs weren't designed to run on dust.  You can wash and warm your tummy when you get back to camp.  Your lungs, not so much.

One of the greatest hazards of a dust storm is loss of visibility. How far you can see and how clearly you can see will be greatly reduced. Blowing dust and debris might even be enough to blind you at least temporarily if you don't have adequate eye protection. Or the blowing dust itself may reduce visibility to zero. When visibility is restricted, reduce your speed so you don't overdrive your sight picture. When visibility drops to zero, STOP! Keep in mind the storm is going to reduce other rider's visibility, making it harder for them to see you too, so you want to avoid being where other traffic is likely.  The dust storm won't last forever, even if it seems like it does.  Dust may prevent you from seeing obstacles or other hazards in your way.

Breathing may become difficult if the dust is thick or the storm lasts a long time.  You may be able to filter out some of the dust by covering your mouth and nose with a bandanna or other cloth covering.  A light weight ski mask or balaclava like you use for warmth would also work.  In a pinch you can make a sort of Ninja mask using a T-shirt.  Pull the shirt over your head until the neck is above your nose.  Then reach behind your head and pull the bottom of the shirt up over your head and down to your eyebrows.  Then grab the sleeves and tie them behind your head.  This make-shift Ninja mask also works well in cold weather to warm your head, ears, nose and cheeks.  Dampening a mask or bandana with a little water will improve its ability to filter out the dust, but it may be cold as the water evaporates and may get clogged quicker than a dry mask.

When its over, be careful clearing covers from air intakes so you don't dump the accumulated dust into the opening you were trying to protect. Dust yourself off as best you can and clean your goggles. Be careful of the trails back to camp. Blowing dust may have concealed obstacles, ruts, or holes that could be dangerous. Riding or even just walking may kick up a lot more dust than usual and affect visibility, so exercise caution. Even a light breeze may create dust clouds that obscure the trail and landmarks. Dust filled ruts or rocks hidden in accumulated dust are potential disasters waiting for you to find them.

Cleaning up camp after dust storm. You'll probably want to sweep or shake your awning mat. Gently brush loose dust from windows and flat surfaces. Sweep the dust off your picnic table and wipe it down with a damp cloth and perhaps some disinfectant cleaner. If you put your chairs under your vehicle, get them out and shake or brush the dust off them. Dust off any equipment that was left outside. Clean your RV and vehicle windows. You will probably need to dust at least the horizontal surfaces inside your tent or RV too and clean off the picnic table.

Dust off!

Camping in Snow!

Because for many if not most of us, camping is a summer activity, snow is usually not a problem. However, if you do any winter camping or RVing or even venture out either early or late in the season, you may encounter snow. One of my family's favorite outings was our annual "Turkey In The Dirt" Thanksgiving dirt bike trip to the Mojave Desert. Most years the weather was fairly mild, as is normally the case year-round in southern California. However, one year, we did encounter snow, and it seriously changed many aspects of our trip. Our original destination was miles off the paved road, up and down several rocky hills, and we hadn't gone more than 50 yards or so off the highway when we encountered 8-12" of snow on top of slimey, slippery mud and it became apparent we shouldn't go any further. We managed to extricate ourselves, get back on the highway, and moved on to another location where the camp site was closer to the road, on level ground without any hills to negotiate. Much of that trip was spent in the cozy confines of the motorhome, staying warm, playing games, watching movies, drinking hot chocolate, and enjoying other indoor activities. I don't find dirt bikes much fun to ride in the snow. ATVs, especially those with 4 wheel drive are much more stable and appealing for riding on the white stuff and side-by-sides are really fun in the snow. And, of course, a cozy motorhome would make an excellent base camp for snowmobiling and other winter activities, like sledding, skiing, and ice fishing.  Just make sure your RV is properly equipped to prevent the plumbing, holding tanks, and dump valves from freezing.  I encountered winter weather conditions on more than one Boy Scout "Fall Encampment" with my sons.  Believe me, getting caught unprepared for bad weatehr will quickly turn you into a believer in planning for the worst!

Impacts on driving. If you haven't already reached your destination when it begins to snow, you'll have to deal with slick roads and reduced visibility. You may also encounter reduced traction and slippery and muddy surfaces when heading into a primitive camping area such as we frequented in the Mojave Desert. All of these conditions require increased awareness and attention to your surroundings and what your vehicle is doing. Unless you've already done a lot of snow camping or other outdoor winter activities, you probably won't know how your rig will behave when you try to navigate slick roads or deep snow. Snow also causes navigation problems. Reduced visibility from falling or blowing snow coupled with fogging of windshields can seriously hamper your ability to see where you're going. Snow can also alter familiar landmarks and stick to road signs, making it difficult to tell where you are and know when and where to turn. Your best bet is to find a safe location and wait out the storm. If you must continue driving, exercise caution. You will need more room to stop and turn your rig on slick roads. Slow down well ahead of any sharp turns or stops. If your vehicle isn't equipped with ABS braking systems, pump the brakes to avoid having the brakes lock up.  Brakes work by converting the kenetic energy of your moving vehicle into heat from friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors.   Once they lock up, the only "braking" is the already significantly reduced friction between your tires and the slippery road! Even wet roads loose about 50% of traction.  Snow and icy, frozen pavement bring a it lot closer to zero!  Once the brakes are locked, you will also loose the ability to steer your vehicle since the patch of rubber on the slick road can slide in any direction, most likely the one your vehicle is already heading regardless of which way you turn the wheels. Your front wheels need to be rolling to steer the vehicle.  If you're planning to drive where you will encounter snowy roads, carry tire chains to fit your vehicle.  Many highways REQUIRE tire chains when it snows.  Count on it taking a lot longer than usual to get to your destination, especially if you have to put on tire chains.  In addition to the time it takes to install them, you'll have to drive much slower than you would on clear pavement.  Practice putting the chains on at home so you can avoid the learning curve while lying in the snow or slush alongside the highway to install them when needed.  You usually only need tire chains on the driving wheels, but adding them to the front wheels of rear wheel drive vehicles will improve traction for steering.  If  you have dual rear wheels, as many motorhomes do, chains are usually used only on the outside tire but, if possible they should also be installed on the inside tire.   The extra time you spend lying in the snow under  your motorhome to install tire chains on inside duals may expose you to additional traffic dangers as well as to freezing!  Some places, like California do specify installing chains on both tires "if possible" when you have dual wheels.  That might require extra wide chains to cover both tires or having two sets of chains.  Installing two sets of chains can be extremely difficult if the clearance between the duals is tight.

Snow in camp. Snow that comes up while you're in camp may affect your departure plans. Unless you're pretty sure you can make it home -- or at least out of the snow zone -- before there is much accumulation, you probably shouldn't leave when it starts to snow. On the other hand, if heavy snow is predicted, you should clear out as soon as possible to avoid getting snowed in. Your biggest snow problems in camp will probably be due to accumulation. As the snow accumulates, it may hamper your movements between vehicles, dampen firewood, and interfere with many normal activities. Too much accumulation can hamper travel, damage vehicles, and you could get "snowed in" and unable to leave. So try to learn the forecast and act accordingly. Snow can also accumulate on flat surfaces, such as your RV roof, and, if it gets deep enough, the weight may cause structural damage. If you're camping in a tent, you'll want to brush the snow off frequently to prevent buildup that could flatten your tent. If your RV awnings are extended, brush off the snow and roll them up before there is too much build up. Move your firewood under your RV or trailer or put it under a tarp at the first sign of bad weather. Move other camping equipment (chairs, tables, camp stoves, etc) into a sheltered area or cover it with tarp. Cover your OHVs or put them back in the trailer until the weather clears. If snow begins to build up on your RV roof, try to brush it off. The best way to do that is from a ladder beside your RV, because RV roofs are very slippery and you may trip over obstacles like vents hidden in the snow and take an unplanned dive off the roof. That ground comes up awfully fast and awfully hard, even if it is covered in fluffy snow. If snow is in the forecast or you suspect it might snow, makes sure you don't leave anything outside that might be harmed by snow. One of my friends was in the habit of removing his riding boots before going into his RV so they could air out over night and woke up one morning to find 3" of snow in them!

Snow does not have to end an outing. It can cause significant changes in your plans, but, if you are prepared, you may even be able to sit warm and cozy in your RV or tent and enjoy the delicate dance of snowflakes outside. Be sure to have some alternative indoor forms of entertainment readily available, especially if you are camping with children. Books and games are traditional favorites. So is storytelling. If you haven't brought anything with you, try making up your own games. Have the kids try to count snow flakes. The best way to do this is to catch some on a dark piece of paper or cloth, although counting them as they fly by might be fun to try even if it is difficult and frustrating. Watch for animals in the storm. Sometimes the behavior of birds and animals can be very entertaining, amusing, and even educational. If it isn't really nasty outside, you might even try lighting a campfire and enjoying some fresh cooked hotdogs, S'mores, or hot chocolate during a light snow. If nothing else, it will make a good story later -- especially for the kids. If you think you'll be leaving before the snow melts, monitor the accumulation around your rig. Winds may cause snowdrifts to form that could keep your from leaving when you're ready to go. You may be able to dig your way out or want to keep a path cleared before the snow gets too deep to shovel. Sometimes it is tempting to just wait it out, but clearing snow regularly, from roofs, paths, and even the vehicle exit route from your campsite, will make it easier. If you wait until there are 4' drifts in front of your rig, it is going to take a long time to dig your way out when you're ready to leave. If drifts are forming, be especially cautious driving out because you may encounter impassable drifts on the exit roads.

Resource utilization. If you are "trapped" in your RV during a storm you are probably going to consume resources more quickly than usually -- especially propane and battery power, which you'll be using to stay warm and extra cooking that often seems to be a good way to pass the time indoors and feeds our emotional needs as well as filling our bellies. You may consume water and fill holding tanks more quickly too. So...keep any eye on your resources and take steps to conserve BEFORE you run out. One good thing about snow is you can almost always melt it down for fresh water if you're running low. And remember:  don't eat yellow snow!

Auxiliary heat. Unless your RV is specifically equipped for winter camping, your furnace may not be able to keep up with the demand when temperatures dip below freezing during snow storms. Keep doors, windows, curtains, and drapes closed. Cut window inserts from reflective "bubble" insulation (such as Reflectix) so you can use them to reduce heat loss (they'll also help keep your RV cooler in summer). You may need more heat than your standard RV furnace can supply. If you have a generator, you can use electric heaters. We have one that in the form of an electric fireplace that adds a cabin-like ambiance when in use as well as delivering 1500 watts of additional heat. Catalytic propane heaters, both permanently mounted and portable, are other possibilities for boosting your heating capacity. Just read and follow the instructions closely. Even though they don't usually give off toxic fumes they do consume the oxygen, potentially suffocating occupants of a confined space if there is inadequate ventilation.  Constantly running the furnace is going to deplete your battery reserves (unless you're hooked up to shore power), so you will want to monitor  your batter status and either run the engine (on motorhomes) or the generator to recharge the batteries before they get too low to run the furnace.  By the way, you can usually recharge the batteries faster running the vehicle engine than running the generator.  The vehicle alternator puts out a higher powered, regulated electrical current that charges more efficiently than the puny chargers on most RV converters.  A good 3-stage battery charging system will work better than a standard converter, but your best bet for quick charging is usually the vehicle engine.  Even a large V-8 will at idle will probably consume only about the same amount of gasoline as running the generator.  However, the generator taps into the fuel tank higher than the engine fuel line to prevent you from using up ALL your gas running the generator.  If you use the vehicle engine to charge your batteries, keep an eye on your fuel level so you don't run out and end up stranded!

Keeping warm in your tent is more difficult. You may have to snuggle under extra blankets and sleeping bags. Tent heaters may be an option, but extra caution is required to use them safely. If the wind is predictable and blowing away from your tent you might build a campfire in front of the entrance so some of the heat can reflect inside. Again extra caution is required to prevent setting your tent on fire. Don't build it too close and be sure to keep an eye on the wind direction. You might heat some soccer-ball size rocks in your fire and then roll them into your tent to add warmth, but make sure they aren't hot enough to melt or set fire to the tent or sleeping bag fabric. Smaller rocks or foil-wrapped potatoes are a good way to warm your sleeping bag and keep your feet warm. Just make sure they aren't still hot enough to melt or scorch the fabric -- or your feet!  Someone quipped that warm burritos will also warm up your sleeping bag, but the cheese gets between your toes! A Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat. I normally don't recommend using them inside tents, but as an emergency heat source they can be quite effective if used carefully and with adequate ventilation. Keep them away from fabrics and ensure adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate. If there is already snow on the ground when you set up your tent, tramp the snow down or scrape it away before rolling out your ground cloth -- and be sure to use a ground cloth beneath your tent. Otherwise, warmth from inside the tent will melt the snow beneath it and it will wick up through the floor. Also make sure you brush off all the snow you can from your boots, clothes, and equipment before entering the tent. You probably won't notice extra cold from tracking in snow, but it will make a mess as it melts.  If you must set up a tent on deep snow pack, use an extra sleeping bag or thick sleeping pads between your sleeping bag and the floor of the tent.  You will be more comfortable and less likely to melt the snow under the tent.  You may have to crawl into your sleeping bags to keep warm if all else fails.  There is nothing sissy about avoiding hypothermia!  And, if you are lucky enough to have a partner you are willing to share a sleeping bag with,  you'll both stay warmer than in separate sleeping bags.

Snowy activities. You may not be able to continue your regular activities in the snow. Dirt bikes aren't very stable in the snow. I've seen some innovative rides drive nails through their tires from the inside for added traction,  but the narrow footprint and only 2 wheels is still not very table on snow and ice.  ATVs (quads) fare much better, especially if they are equipped with 4WD. Since side-by -sides are nearly always 4WD, they also fare well in the snow.  But, no matter what you're driving or riding, exercise extra caution.  The snow can effectively camouflage many treacherous obstacles.  Perhaps you should turn your energies toward building snowmen or snow forts instead of venturing out on slippery trails, half-hidden by that white stuff. Just one rock or hidden hole under the snow could quickly spoil your whole day and do reparable damage to you and your vehicle.  Frozen over puddles may look perfectly safe but could be deep enough to swallow your OHV when you break through the ice.

Warming up after cold activities can be a bit of a challenge in camp. It helps if you have a warm RV waiting for you. Hot drinks will do wonders, both for your insides and for your hands as you hold the warm cups. Speaking of warming your hands, placing them in warm water will warm them faster than holding them in front of the campfire. I even cup my hands to hold some warm water to warm my nose when I come in from the cold. Water conducts heat very well; air does not. In fact, the insulation in your home and your sleeping bag is primarily used to create "dead air space" to prevent heat transference. Be sure the water isn't too hot and never put frozen or frostbitten fingers or toes or other body parts in hot water (warm water is OK). If you are tent camping, your tent will provide some shelter but it will be especially inviting and comfortable if you have a tent heater to warm it up. Be sure to provide adequate ventilation, in spite of the potential of heat loss through open windows or vents. A warm campfire will be appealing and, if it is strategically placed in front of your tent door, may also add some warmth there. A good campfire will warm you and help dry your clothes so you stay warmer. You'll lose heat about 25 times faster in wet clothes than in dry.  If you don't have any dry clothes to change in to, wrap yourself up in a blanket or sleeping bag while you dry your clothes by the fire.

Treating frostbite. If a person's skin is turning white and hard or black, or they have lost feeling in the area, seek IMMEDIATE medical attention (call 911). For less serious cases, restore warmth as quickly as possible, but do not warm the skin unless you can keep it warm. Warming it and allowing it to refreeze can make things a lot worse. Better to leave it alone until you can permanently warm it.  Gently warm the area with warm water or wet heat until the skin appears red and warm. If you have no warm water, breathe on the affected area through cupped hands and hold it next to your body. Do NOT use direct heat from dry heating pads, radiators, or fires. Do NOT rub or massage the frostbitten area or break any blisters. Do NOT allow someone with frostbitten toes or feet to walk on them unless it is absolutely necessary. Contrary to a popular myth, do NOT rub snow an area you suspect may be frozen or frostbitten!  Any water in liquid from, even ice water, may be warmer than frozen body parts and warmer than the outside temperatures.  Liquid water, even ice water, will be at least 32°F which may be well warmer than the ambient temperature outside.  Another options, though somewhat disgusting to think about, is to use fresh warm urine to thaw frozen body parts.  I read of a young couple on a first date who were driving in snowy conditions on a mountain road when the girl had an urgent need to urinate.  She sat on the chrome bumper of the car her bare buttocks instantly froze to the cold metal.  Though somewhat embarassing, her date, fortunately, had the wisdom to pee where she was frozen to the bumper and it allowed her to pull free without losing any skin.  How's that for chivalry?

"Let it snow!"

Camping In Fog

OK, so what is any different about camping in fog? Other than dampening your spirits and perhaps your tent and sleeping bags, camping in fog is not too different than camping in normal conditions. With ONE major exception: visibility.

Fog limits visibility. It makes it harder for you to see where you're going and it makes it harder for others to see you and your camp site. If you're out and about and get caught in fog, you might have to hole up for a time and wait for it to clear if it gets too bad. You can get yourself thoroughly lost if you keep moving when you can't see landmarks that would keep you on track. Driving in fog often means reduced traction as well as inhibited visibility as the fog condenses on the road or trail surface. Turn your headlights on DIM so other driver's can see you better. High beams usually light up the fog in front of you and glare back making it even harder to see where you're going. If you have fog lights, use them. If you don't have fog lights and encounter fog with any regularity, consider adding them. They are not terribly expensive nor difficult to install.  Fog can make it hard to see tents and vehicles in camp.  After nearly running into my own unlit motorhome when returning to camp in the fog one night I added reflective strips down both sides to make it easier to see.   I also placed reflective strips near the front and rear of both sides of my motorcycle trailer. You might put reflective tape on  your tent or hang chemical light sticks at strategic places to protect it.  Solar lights may also add some visibility and you can often pick them up at dollar stores so they don't have to be expensive.

Driving in fog is challenging to say the least and you may often encounter fog between home and your camping destination.  After an hour or so of trying to peer through thick fog my eyes usually feel like burned holes in blanket.  Proper fog lights are helpful.  The amber or yellow lens, low mounting position, and flat beam pattern help illuminate the roadway without reflecting too much glare back at you.  Never use your headlights on bright in fog (or heavy falling or blowing snow).  The glare will make it really hard to see what's ahead of you.  As in other situations of decreased visibility, you need to adjust your speed so you don't run into stopped or slow moving vehicles, but try not to become an obstacle yourself.  The central valley in California gets something they call "toole" fog -- it is thick as pea soup but very shallow.  Sometimes drivers of big semis are high enough to see over it while ordinary cars are swimming through it.  When I encountered this situation I couldn't even see the hood ornament on my car, but I could see blue sky above me!  I waited for a truck to pass me and then locked onto his tail lights and followed him for many miles.  If nothing else, having a big truck to clear the road in front of you should reduce your chances of being hit head on.  Be sure to maintain a safe distance.  You don't want to run into him if he stops.  Even if he stops and you do run into him, the impact will be a lot less than if you'd hit an oncoming vehicle head on.  Using a truck as your "front door" (as CBers say) not only protects you from on coming traffic, most truckers are familiar with the roads and will be aware of potential problems either from experience or from warnings via CB radio from other truckers, long before you do.

I once had some yellow tinted sun glasses that actually made it easier to see in the fog.  Ordinary sun glasses will make it harder.  The yellow tinted lenses are sometimes found at sporting goods stores that cater to hunters and shooters.

In camp, you need to make your tent, RV, and other equipment visible to avoid someone from running into it. Lights or lanterns can help make your tent and your picnic table easier to see in the fog. To protect your RV, reflective tape on all 4 sides will help it show up in the headlights of any approaching vehicle. One of the most visible formats is the alternating white and red reflectors you often see on semi-trailers but that may not be very attractive on the side of a nice motorhome. 3M makes a variety of colors of reflective tape so you may be able to find something that blends with or complements the existing color scheme while giving you high visibility. I chose a 2" wide white strip for one of my motorhomes and installed it over an existing white strip of nearly the same size. It was nearly invisible in daylight, but the high reflectivity showed up brightly in headlights at night or other times of decreased visibility.  Before installing the reflective tape I nearly ran into my own motorhome when returning to camp one foggy evening which is why I decided to install it.

Minimize the chance of someone running into your camp by choosing a safe location in the first place. NEVER set up your camp on a trail or road. Keep your camp a safe distance from trails and roads. Avoid setting up camp next to an outside turn on a road or trail, where someone missing the turn might run into you. Fog, rain, or snow may make it difficult for them to see the turn or slick conditions caused by rain or snow may cause them to loose control and head smack into your campsite. Camping on the inside of a turn is a little less risky. If someone misses the turn they aren't as likely to run into you, but they may still loose control if the road is slick and then they could spin out and go anywhere!

If you encounter fog while out on the trails on an OHV, horse, or just hiking, you will need to take extra precautions to remain safe.  Other travelers may not be able to see you or you may not be able to see them in time to avoid a collision so you need to be ready to take evasive action at a moment's notice.  If the visibility gets too bad you may want to seek a safe place to take a break until it improves.  If your OHV has lights, make sure you turn them on.  They might not help you see any better, but they will make it easier for other travelers to see you.

If the weather turns cold you may encounter freezing fog.   Branches on trees and bushes and power lines will become coated with something called rime, which is a form of frost.  Sometimes freezing fog creates what is knows affectionately as "diamond dust" -- brilliant ice crystals that collect on horizontal surfaces as they fall from the freezing fog.  I've even seen crystals suspended in the fog, glistening like tiny stars when illuminated by street lights or head lights.  While it is incredibly beautiful, it isn't much fun to breath it and it can inhibit visibility, making harder for you so see and be seen!

See and be seen!

Camping in Rain!

Who would want to go camping in the rain?  Few if any of us would set out with the goal of camping in the rain but sooner or later you will probably be caught in a rain storm while you're camping and in some parts of the country rain is a nearly constant companion. A light rain can be a fun for a while; then it becomes a nuisance. A downpour can really rain on your parade! Your first priority is to keep an eye on the weather. Unless you are either close to home or in an area you visit often, weather patterns will be unfamiliar and you may easily get surprised. Listen to weather updates on the local radio station or use a NOAA weather radio for continuous updates -- and, above all, be observant. Pay attention to which way the clouds move and note changes in the color, density, formation, and turbulence of clouds moving toward you. Dark, roiling clouds moving toward you will probably bring a storm. I once initially declined a dirt bike ride in the Mojave Desert because, as I told my kids, I "didn't like the looks of the clouds over the mountains" in the direction we would be heading. They were dark, roiling, ominous, and headed our way. However, my teen age boys were adamant about going with the group and I didn't want some other dad (Gary) stuck watching out for my kids so I went on the ride. Another, wiser and more experienced riding buddy, Al, a former desert racer, opted to stay in camp. He didn't like the looks of the clouds either, so I felt somewhat vindicated. We were relaxing at our destination, a country store some distance from camp, under clear skies, sitting back enjoying a cold soda, when Gary quipped "Al really blew it this time. Just look! It is perfect!" As if on queue, the words were no sooner out of his mouth than the wind kicked up and it began to sprinkle. We started rounding up our group and getting ready to head back to camp. By the time we were back on the trail the sprinkles had turned to drizzle then the drizzle soon turned into a good hard rain. Before long the rain turned to sleet and then to snow. We were all looking forward to getting back to camp and out of the storm. The 18 mile ride out turned into a 27 mile return trip when the dry lake we'd crossed on the way out was no longer dry and we had to go around. By the time we got back to camp, everyone one was soaked to the skin and freezing. My boys couldn't even let go of the handlebars because their hands were so cold. They just slid their cold, curled fingers off the ends of the grips and let the bikes fall over in the mud as they dashed into the motorhome to get warm. After that they had a little more appreciation for the old man's opinion about the weather! On a side note, having a warm and cozy RV waiting and a quick way to prepare some hot chocolate and a bowl of Mom's Marvelous Mojave Mild Chili was wonderful! Glad we weren't tent camping that trip! We had a 10x14 cabin tent set up as dirt-bike "garage" but it had blown down in the wind and had accumulated at least 25 gallons of water in its folds during the storm. The opposing overhead poles slipped right past each other in the rain-softened ground and left the whole thing flattened. Sure glad that wasn't our primary shelter! On the other hand, even having a tent where we could get in out of the weather and change into dry clothes would have been a blessing. A tent heater or even a Coleman lantern (properly ventilated) would have warmed up the tent and we could have heated up some chili and hot chocolate on the camp stove or campfire outside during a break in the storm.

Light rain might dampen your activities and your spirits but usually isn't too much of a problem, even for tent campers, unless you have a leaky tent. You can usually just wait it out in your vehicle or your tent. Some people even like to walk or ride in the rain -- if they are properly dressed for it and/or have a good umbrella and/or are properly dressed for it. A light rain on a hot day is even refreshing. However, even a light summer rain can dangerously reduce your body temperature if your clothing gets soaked -- you will loose heat about 25 times faster in wet clothes than in dry ones -- so if you expect rain or want to be prepared in case it comes, bring along a good rain suit or at least a poncho. You can get plastic ponchos at your dollar store.  They aren't the most fashionable thing you could wear but they can help keep you at least part of you dry.  In a pinch you might poke head and arms holes in a large trash bag to keep the rain off. If you do get soaking wet, change into dry clothes before you become hypothermic.  If you don't have any dry clothes, get out of the wet ones and wrap up in a blanket or sleeping bag while your clothes dry.  Don't sit around in wet clothes, not even by a campfire.  When you are in wet clothing it is possible to get dangerously hypothermic even in mild outdoor summer temperatures.  Your core temperature only needs to drop a little under 4 degrees (from 098.6°F to 95°F) to become hypothermic and seriously in trouble so you see it doesn't have to be freezing outside for your body to get too cold.  You can get hypothermic in 70° temperatures if you're wet.

Heavy rain can wreak havoc in camp. Heavy rain can swamp tents. It can soften the ground holding tent pegs and beneath the leveling jacks on RVs. Tent pegs may pull out, tent poles may sink in.  Leveling jacks and blocks may get mashed into the mud.  Rain can bring flash floods, even if the rain is miles away. It can make getting in and out of unpaved camping areas difficult and even dangerous. I've seen ground that was so hard when dry a pick would bounce off it, but after a few minutes rain stepping on the same rocky spot you would sink in up over your ankles. Heavy rain may reveal any weakness in your RV or tent. Inspect likely areas (seams, around windows and doors, and around exterior fixtures like vents) frequently for signs of leaks. Make note of any you find so you can attend to them when the storm lets up. Unless you have some waterproof sealing tape that sticks to wet surfaces there isn't much you can do during a storm but noting where the leaks are and limiting damage by putting a pan under drips to contain the water. A tarp over your tent or RV might deflect a lot of the rain -- if you have one with you and have the means to put it up and secure it.  I've seen heavy rain send enough muddy water through a campsite that the grass patio mats next to RVs literally disappeared under deposits of silt an inch or more thick!

There are two major things to think about when it rains. 1) Affect of the rain on your camp (RV, tent, exposed equipment) and 2) what do do while it is raining. If you have set your camp up properly and prepared your tent or RV for bad weather, the first concern should already be taken care of. NEVER wait until the bad weather hits or is imminent to prepare. Keeping your equipment in good condition goes a long way toward being prepared for bad weather. Rips in tents or awnings should be quickly repaired and leaks in RVs quickly sealed. When the weather turns bad, double check the ropes and stakes holding down your tent, roll up RV awnings, and get equipment and gear you don't want getting wet inside your vehicle or tent or cover them with tarps. Make sure you aren't parked or camped in a depression that will fill with water or in the natural path of water coming off the hills and down the canyons. Flash floods can occur many miles away from the actual point of rain fall, so, even if you aren't getting rained on but there is rain in the area, take precautions -- move to higher ground if necessary. Don't wait until you see the water rising to take action. By then it is probably too late. The water is likely to rise faster than you can get out of its way.

Preparing your RV for rain. If you're camping in an RV, roll up the awnings, close the windows, and secure all your outside equipment. Gather up camp chairs and, if you don't have someplace inside to put them, slide them under your vehicle. Make sure you aren't parked in an area that might be affected by flash floods, such as a wash, dry stream bed, or depression. If there is lightning nearby and you are parked near or under a tall tree or other obstacle, like a light pole or radio tower, try to move to a safer spot. Also be sure you aren't parked in a sand wash or other depression that could be flooded. Even rain over mountains miles away can cause flash floods to roar down sand washes.  Once you have everything safe, go inside and prepare some indoor activities for you can your companions. Card games, board games, reading, or watching movies are always good things to do when you can't be outside. You might plan some special snacks to help get you through.

If you are tent camping, some tents fare better in rain than others. A good 4-season tent, well anchored, should be able to weather all but the worst storms. Lighter, 3-season tents, might need a little help. First of all, make sure all standard anchors (stakes and guy ropes) are securely in place. It is far to common to ignore staking down modern dome tents and that is probably OK most of the time.  But during a storm, you will want it well secured to the ground!  Some tents have additional grommets or rings called guy-out loops, for attaching extra guy ropes for additional security. Sometimes you can attach extra ropes to the tops of tent poles to reduce movement in the wind. Attaching at least two guy ropes at right angles to each other can add a lot of stability.  If you have a rain fly, make sure it is in place and properly secured. If you don't have a rain fly and are expecting heavy rain, you might want to consider putting an extra tarp over your tent for added protection.  Make sure your ground cloth doesn't stick out past the base of your tent or it will funnel water underneath the floor.   Double check to be sure your camp isn't in a wash, dry stream bed, or depression that might be inundated by a flash flood. Remember, flash floods can occur miles from where it is raining. Also ensure that you aren't camped under a tree or other tall structure that might attract lightning if there is lightning in the area. Make sure all your equipment is secured and covered or placed inside your vehicle. Camp chairs, stoves, coolers, lanterns, recreational equipment, tools, etc should all be put away BEFORE the storm actually hits. Dig out your indoor activities so you and your family will have something to do while it rains and get your snacks ready.

What to do about leaks. When it rains you will quickly find out if your tent or RV has any leaks. When you discover you have leaks you will want to fix them as soon as possible. There is a special sealant tape, Eternabond RV-EMT, that will stick even when the surface is wet so it can be used to seal leaks even when it is raining, Ordinary duct tape will help, but you'll have to wait until it stops raining and dry the surface to get the tape to stick well.  If you really need to slow the leaks while it is still raining, try to dry off the surface as much as you can before trying to apply duct tape.  Then you should have less problems in the next rain. If you have leaks in your tent or your RV, try covering the area with a tarp to deflect the rain until you can make permanent repairs.  Small leaks, like drips oozing through tent seams, might be fixed using a waxy seam sealer or waterproof spray such as Camp Dry.  Leaking RV seams will need to be re-caulked or sealed with silicone.

What to do while it is raining. I often try to make good use of bad weather to perform productive tasks inside my RV or enclosed motorcycle trailer. I find it is a good time not only to make minor repairs or perform maintenance on my bikes and equipment, it is also a good time to take inventory and clean and organize riding gear, tools, and supplies. If you have children with you, they're not going to be too interested in such activities, at least not for long, so you'll want to have alternate things planned for them to do. I found my older (teen age) kids could usually be pretty productive and sometimes the younger ones would want to help too. With today's technology, electronic entertainment is often an option if you're in an RV with a generator. We usually take along several favorite movies for the kids or grandkids, often some with a theme that is related to our location or activity. I keep a copy of the dirt bike movie "On Any Sunday" in my motorhome. Its always a hit on a dirt bike outing.  Simple board or card games can also help pass the time pleasantly. Books and magazines are good options for many people, both children and adults. If you have wifi access you can surf the Internet. Even without access you may find ways to pass the time using your computer. Letter writing, via computer or good old-fashioned pen and paper is another productive way to use "down time". You may want to take time to document your trip thus far, and record some of your group's feelings and response to the storm. Routine cleaning inside the RV often lags behind activities when we are able to go outside and DO something, so catching up while the weather is bad is a good idea -- and makes the rest of the trip more enjoyable. And today's teens will no doubt find texting a good way to spend the time if they have cell service. And don't discount just sitting warm cozy in your tent or RV and watching the storm! Many storms have a beauty all their own, especially lightning storms -- assuming you have taken appropriate precautions and are not in a vulnerable position. If you get a gentle rain, you may even find it fun to go for a walk -- if you have appropriate rain gear.

Prepare. The main point of all this is to prepare for storms BEFORE you are caught in one. Already have indoor games and activities planned for you and your kids. And, of course, make sure you have done all you need to do to make sure your camp is ready for the bad weather. Check with other campers in the area to find out if they've experienced storms there before and learn what to expect. People familiar with the area can give insight into how long the storm may last and how severe it might be. Keep in mind that even highly trained meteorologists with sophisticated computer models can't always predict the weather accurately. Best to prepare for the worst and be pleasantly surprised when it doesn't happen.

OHV activities should usually be curtailed during rain. Rain on your goggles and fogging up inside will limit your vision, increasing the risk of an accident. Mud thrown up by other riders or splashed by your own vehicle can block your vision and accumulate on the vehicle, potentially leading to corrosion of metal components or permanent staining of plastic parts if it is left on too long. Wet, muddy road and trail surfaces will have reduced traction and you'll have less control of your vehicle. ATVs, especially those with 4 wheel drive, are more stable in wet conditions than are dirt bikes or mountain bikes. Crashing on a muddy trail isn't much fun and riding when you are wet or muddy will be very uncomfortable and could lead to dangerous hypothermia. If you're out on the trails when rain is imminent, head back to camp and enjoy watching and listening to it from inside your tent or RV or under some kind of shelter. If you get caught in the rain a long way from camp, seek any shelter you can find. You might find it more comfortable to stop and stay still in the rain than to continue riding in it, but on the other hand, you might want to get back to camp and warm, dry clothes and a hot meal and/or beverage as soon as possible. I've seen conflicting opinions on whether you stay drier standing still or speeding through the rain.   One indisputable factor is time: the longer you're in the rain, the wetter you'll get, so hurrying back to camp may be the better choice.   I read of an experiment to determine if running or walking in rain kept you dryer.  While you might run into extra rain drops laterally when running, the main factor still turned out to be time.  The longer you're in the rain, the more will fall on you and the wetter you'll get.   If you have appropriate rain gear, riding OHVs in the rain can be fun. However, always exercise extra caution. Even if you are riding safely, others might not be! Getting soaked, even in summer weather, can lead to dangerous hypothermia. Continuing to ride when you're wet will speed evaporation and cool you off faster.

Will you stay drier walking or running in the rain?   There has always been some debate about this, but an actual mathematical analysis gives us the simple answer:   the less time you spend in the rain, the drier you will be, so moving from point A to point B, you will stay drier by running.  Turns out the amount of rain that falls directly onto you from above is the same whether you are moving or standing still.  When you move, you also encounter rain drops in front of you, and how wet you get from that depends only on the distance and not the speed.  The bottom line:  running will keep your drier than walking, but standing still will keep you even drier, especially if you have an umbrella or other protection from the falling rain.

Don't let it be said that you didn't have enough sense to come in -- or get your stuff -- out of the rain!

Camping in Wind!

Unless your sport is sailing, kite flying, or hang gliding -- or you have a wind turbine for power -- wind is not usually your friend. I've been in windy areas where I feared my RV was going to be blown over and I spent half the night lying awake, planning how to get me and my family out safely if it did. The rocking of our small Class C motorhome really was that bad. We were parked so the left side of the motorhome was facing the winds that came up during the night. Bad choice! Always try to park facing the prevailing wind if you can. I was younger then and didn't know better and there was not any wind when we parked.  Parking so you're headed into the wind has several advantages.  First, it presents a much smaller area for the wind to impact and second, the front caps are usually designed to be somewhat areodynamic.   In fact, I had a 35' Suncrest Class A that had a frontal wind coefficient about the same as a Jaguar XKE!  Of course the frontal area made the total resistance much higher, but still, it provided a lot less resistance than the huge flat side of the beast!  You may have noticed you can drive 50-60 mph in your motorhome without feeling too much wind affect but a passing semi generating a cross wind can nearly blow you out of your lane. Another consideration:  the relatively long wheelbase, compared to the side-to-side measurement also makes it more stable if the wind is coming from the front (or back) instead of from the side.

RVs, including motorhomes, trailers, and especially truck campers, are much more affected by strong crosswinds on the highway than when parked, so avoid driving in windy conditions if you can. On one trip in the Mojave Desert I saw an 18-wheeler lying on its side along Highway 14 near Mojave and figured that was a pretty good sign that it was TOO windy for safe RV travel! When I stopped for gas a few mile later I learned the fallen semi had been an empty, dead-heading back for another load so it lacked any cargo weight to help hold it down and had been there for a couple of days.  Even so, it was scary seeing a rig much bigger than my motorhome lying where it had been blown over onto it's side.  If you get caught in sudden winds, seek shelter if you can. You may be able to stop under an overpass or pull over next to the leeward side (out of the wind) of a sturdy building. Even just pulling off into a rest area or side street or along the road will be safer than continuing to drive, especially if you an find place to park facing the wind. A stationary RV is less susceptible to wind than one that is moving. When moving you may be blown into oncoming traffic or the buffeting of the wind may simply set up a rocking motion that is amplified by repeated gusts until your rig is blown over or into oncoming traffic or the effort to maintain position causes you to lose control. If you do pull over into a rest area or off the road, try to park so the front or rear of your RV, not the broad side, is facing the wind. Most RVs are designed so the front is somewhat more aerodynamic than the back. The only danger of facing into the wind is an increased risk of windshield damage from flying debris in extreme winds. External windshield covers may provide some protection against blowing small stuff, but will do little good if gale-force winds throw large debris in your direction -- and you may not feel like getting out in the storm to try to put them on.  The wind could rip them out of your hands and blow them away before you could secure them.  If they attach only by Velcro or snaps and not twist lock fasteners, the wind could rip them right off the rig.  Truck campers are probably the most dangerous to drive in high winds because they have a relatively high center of gravity. They may also be the most susceptible to cross winds in camp. Motorhomes, on the other hand, are generally more stable than truck campers or trailers because of the heavy automotive chassis and low-mounted holding and fuel tanks. Trailers are somewhere in between, more stable than truck campers, but less stable than motorhomes and are very susceptible to crosswinds. My grown son got caught in a crosswind on a major freeway that flipped his toy hauler trailer and his truck over onto their sides. By the time the trailer stopped sliding it had disintegrated to where nothing stood more than 6" above the frame except the generator and the big steel "loading ramp" style tailgate. The rest was shattered into unrecognizable pieces no bigger than your hand.  Fortunately he was blown over onto the median and not into oncoming traffic! Luckily, he was not injured, but both truck and trailer were totaled along with just about all the cargo in the trailer.

Winds can be a problem when you are getting in and out of your RV.   Strong winds may surprise you when you open the door, yanking it out of your hand and possibly injuring you and damaging your RV.  Think about that before you open the door and get a good strong grip on it.  Winds can also blow dust and debris and sometimes rain and snow into your rig.  Try to avoid opening the door as much as you can and keep a really good grip on it when you do.  Try not to leave it open any longer than necessary.  If you have parked with the front into the wind, the wind will push against the door when you open it instead of ripping it out of your hands if the wind is coming from the rear.

A secondary danger from winds is the debris they kick up. Dust, sand, tumbleweeds, garbage, even large pieces of wood and sheet metal can pummel your RV (or your body!), inhibiting visibility and possibly damaging windshields, windows, and the skin of your RV or your skin. Once again, you are safer when you are stopped than when you are moving, partly because the added energy of your vehicle momentum may increase the impact and the damage caused by debris. For example, if a 50 mph wind blows a metal garbage can lid into the front of a vehicle traveling 55 mph, you have a 105 mph impact. If the vehicle was stationary, the impact would have been only the 50 mph of the wind. The difference isn't necessarily going to save the windshield, but it may save occupants from high velocity shrapnel. Tornado force winds have been known to drive pieces of straw through solid oak doors and toss around heavy farm equipment like kids' toys.

Winds in camp are not as dangerous as they are on the road, but a wise camper will take appropriate precautions, like storing awnings, closing roof vents and windows, and securing any loose equipment. Make sure your patio mat is securely anchored to the ground or roll it up until the wind dies down. Also be aware of the potential of falling limbs if you are parked under trees. If you are camping in an RV equipped with slide outs You may also want to retract your slide outs during high winds.  The extra surface area and extended leverage of the slide outs may cause excessive rocking and rolling of your unit and could tweak the slide outs so they can't be retracted and/or no longer fit properly.  Awnings are especially susceptible to wind damage.  They can be very difficult to store properly in windy conditions so roll them up BEFORE the wind gets too strong.   Some high end awnings have wind sensor and use an electric motor to roll them up when wind is detected.  Hopefully they will detect the wind before it gets too forceful for the automated motor to roll it  up.  Just to be safe, if the wind starts to kick up you should roll up your awnings before the sensors detect it.  If you already have a campfire going you may want to put it out until the wind dies down and it is probably an exercise in futility to try to light a campfire when it is windy.  Even using a charcoal or gas BBQ can be difficult if not impossible in high winds.  I had to give up and take our hamburgers inside and fry them in a pan on the RV stove when the wind kept my BBQ from getting enough heat to grill to cook the meat.  And that was with a wind guard around the BBQ!  Strong or erratic winds can whip over or around a wind guard and wreak havoc with your attempts at cooking.

Stabilizing your RV. Stabilizing your RV when you are parked in camp will reduce how much it is rocked by the wind, which will, in turn, make routine tasks, such as cooking, eating, and sleeping, easier and more comfortable. Motorhomes with hydraulic leveling jacks are stabilized by the leveling jacks. But if you use leveling blocks under the tires to level your RV, the body will still bounce on the springs and suspension as it is buffeted by the wind or rocked by internal movement -- unless you add stabilizers. Many trailers have scissor style stabilizing jacks that can be manually cranked down to control bounce and assist with leveling. You might be able to use the camper jacks on a truck camper to stabilize it. Just be darn sure you retract them before moving the vehicle or you risk tearing the camper to pieces! Another, less expensive and less convenient option for trailers and some motorhomes are jack stands. They usually come in a set of four and are comprised of aluminum pyramids with adjustable extensions on top. Put one of these under each corner of any RV so it connects the frame and body (not the axles) to the ground and it will add significant stability. Standard stabilizers are probably not tall enough for many motorhomes. You may need special, high-rise stands or put additional blocks under them for them to work on motorhomes.  You may need a big (10" or 12") crescent wrench to spin the adjusting nut once the adjuster contacts the frame.  NOTE:  these kinds of stabilizers should NOT be used to lift heavy vehicles to level them.

It isn't always easy to estimate the wind speed when you are traveling in a vehicle but you can observe trees, bushes, flags, and the movement of debris in the wind to get an idea of how bad it is. There is a scale, from 0 to 12, that measures wind speed, 0 being calm and 12 being hurricane. You might want to familiarize yourself with at least some of the indicators. Click this link to view the scale: Wind Speed Estimator . One clue I remember is that when flags are flying straight out, you've got a gentle breeze of 8-12 mph.  Suffice it to say that if whole trees are swaying and huge pieces of debris coming at you, it is time to seek immediate and sturdy shelter!  How much wind you and/or your rig can handle depends on several factors, such as the type of rig, its orientation to the wind, its weight, and your experience and skill at controlling it in windy conditions.  Anti-sway bars and steering stabilizers can make it easier to control a large vehicle in the wind.   Weak suspension (poor shocks and/or springs) will contribute to handling problems in the wind.  Wind deflectors on tow vehicles can minimize how much the wind affects the trailer on the road.  Air Tabs are plastic devices attached near the rear of a trailer or motorhome to help control the way the wind whips around behind the vehicle.  I haven't had a chance to try them yet, but the reports I've seen say they make a big difference, especially when you're buffeted by cross winds from a passing semi truck. 

Wind is of even greater concern to tent campers. Tents that are not adequately anchored to the ground will quickly become uncontrolled kites when the wind picks up and you might never see them again.  You might think your heavy packs or other gear will hold it down, until you see your tent sailing off dribbling your valuables all over creation. Different styles of tents and methods of anchoring will have different capabilities to survive wind. Check the instructions that came with your tent or contact the manufacturer to find out how much wind yours can withstand. You will want to take down your tent and seek alternate shelter long before the winds approach the limits. Taking down a tent in even a mild wind can be difficult and even dangerous. You may find your tent provides enough sail to carry you across the campground or even make you airborne before you can get it rolled up if you wait too long. In any windy situation. even a little breeze, check your tent pegs and ropes frequently to make sure they remain secure. If even one comes loose it gives the wind something to get hold of and will greatly increase the risk of damage or being blown away as the loose part of the tent begins to flap.  As the wind picks up, you may want to add extra tie-downs to ensure your safety. Having weight inside your tent, such as gear or people, will help keep it from blowing away in moderate winds, but high winds may still pick it up and leave a trail of debris -- and bodies -- as it sails off. Blowing debris can seriously damage tent fabric. The heavier the fabric, the less susceptible it will be to flying debris. A thin nylon tent can be easily penetrated while a heavy canvas tent will be stronger, less susceptible to damage, and offer more protection to occupants and contents. Twigs and other small debris might easily damage thin tents. High winds can do amazing things. Tornadoes have been known to drive pieces of straw through 2" thick oak doors. Image what strong wind can do to nylon or canvas!

Securing your gear in camp is essential when the wind picks up. Canopies and camp chairs have large "sail" areas compared to their weight and can easily be blow over or blown away. Even fairly heavily loaded ice chests can be blown around by strong winds. They may be damaged or blown over and their contents scattered or even cause damage when blown into vehicles or other equipment. Dirt bikes and bicycles can be blown over, especially if they're broadside in the wind. All RV awnings should be retracted BEFORE the wind gets bad. Strong winds will wreak havoc with open awnings, causing severe damage to the awnings themselves, ripping fabric and bending or damaging hardware, and possibly damaging the RV itself. Standalone canopies should be taken down and stored.  Trash cans are very susceptible to wind and make a nasty mess to cleanup when they get blown over. They can also inflict serious body damage if blown into vehicles or people. Try to secure them to a tree or post or at least set them on the leeward side of a vehicle, building, or large tree to get them as much out of the wind as possible.

Campfires. Campfires and windy conditions are not very compatible. Wind is likely to blow embers or even flaming debris into surrounding brush, grass, tents, vehicles, or people. And getting a fire started in the wind is not easy. Besides that, it isn't a lot of fun sitting around the campfire in the wind! It is a good idea to put out the campfire whenever the wind picks up. If you MUST have a campfire in windy conditions, use some sort of fire box. We use the tub from an old washing machine, affectionately dubbed R2D2. For further information about this option, see my January 2011 post on Campfire Safety. There are several portable fireplaces available today commercially that will similarly limit the spread of embers while providing a safer and more comfortable fire. However, most of of these aren't as deep as a washing machine tub so you may have to limit  yourself to smaller fires.   It will be impossible to really enjoy a campfire if the wind continually shifts direction. If the wind seems to "chase" you around the fire, it is time to put it out and seek some other, out-of-the-weather form of warmth and recreation for the evening.  Wind will cause you to use up your wood more quickly.  The breeze will act like a blacksmith's bellows, fanning the flames.  While that may make the fire put out more heat the wind will take it away faster so its harder for you to stay warm and it will also burn up your wood faster.   Always put your camp chairs away or at least fold them up and lay them flat when you retire for the night.  You never know when a breeze might kick up and blow them onto the fire pit.  The heat left in the coals beneath a fire that hasn't been completely drowned can be substantial, enough to melt the plastic and even aluminum parts of camp chairs if they end up on top of the fire pit. 

Getting caught in the wind on your OHV, especially dirt bikes, can be very dangerous. Try to avoid riding in windy conditions or when a storm may be approaching. I've seen dirt bikes and their riders blown over flat by wind gusts on hill tops in the Mojave Desert. A gust hit just as two riders topped a small ridge and they were blown flat in something akin to the old Laugh-In TV show tricycle get-off. Wind may also kick up a lot of dust and make visibility difficult, greatly increasing the danger of not being able to see an obstacle (rock, tree, gully, mine shaft, stalled vehicle, RV, animal or fellow rider) in time to avoid a collision. If you do get caught in the wind try to find temporary shelter until it dies down. Large rocks, gullies (if it isn't raining), and groves of trees may offer you some respite. If you must keep going, hunker down on your ride to minimize wind resistance and adjust your speed according to visibility. Try to ride into or with the wind instead of across it. If your ride has lights, turn them on to make yourself more visible to fellow riders.

Severe winds. If you have an option, avoid camping in severely windy conditions. I had a reader inquire about the best ways to secure a travel trailer that they are living in while building a new home. They live in very windy area and he feared his trailer might blow over. Some of the suggestions I gave him might be helpful if you get caught in high winds while camping. First, always try to position your vehicle with the front facing the prevailing winds to minimize the impact forces on the vehicle.  The front presents a much smaller area for the wind to push against than the side and it will take a lot more wind to flip a vehicle end to end than to tip it over sideways. A second option you might adapt when camping is to tie down the whole trailer using awning tie downs. My third recommendation probably isn't very practical for camping and that is to install a skirt around the bottom of the trailer to prevent the wind from getting underneath it. Of course, take advantage of any available wind breaks -- rocks, buildings, fences, thickets, other RVs -- to reduce the force on your vehicle. But be careful how you arrange your vehicles to create wind breaks.  I've seen RVs and trailers parked close together in an attempt to create a wind wall -- and the result intensified the wind coming between them -- a demonstration of the venturi effect.  Also, stabilizing your RV will reduce rocking on the suspension, making it more comfortable for you and helping keep it on the ground by dampening movement instead of letting it build up under repeated gusts.

Once you've done everything you can to make your camp site as wind-resistant as possible, get in out of the wind and wait it out! Have some fun indoor games or other activities planned but continue to monitor conditions outside so you can take action -- or resume activities -- if/when the situation changes.  Just for fun, you might want to bring along a kite or two to play with when it gets windy.

Have fun, and don't blow it!

Camping in Hail!

No one would go camping in a hail storm on purpose.  You want to avoid camping in hail if you can. But hail often accompanies thunderstorms, which all to often pop up unexpectedly in mountainous areas that make their own weather.  While hail often accompanies thunderstorms you can get hail without lightning and thunder.  Hail is created in vertical winds within clouds.  Moisture condenses on particles in the air.   If the vertical winds aren't strong it simply falls to earth as rain.  But when their are high winds within a cloud formation, the drops are carried up to higher altitudes and lower temperatures where they freeze.  They then fall back down where they can get coated with more moisture and the cycle continues until they get so heavy the winds can no longer carry them back up.

There is no good way to camp in a hail storm. Hail bombarding your vehicle can break windows and dent roofs and other horizontal surfaces. I got caught in a hailstorm with dime-sized hailstones last summer and now the roof of my RV has texture much like a golf ball. An external windshield cover, if you have one, might reduce the chance of glass damage.  Hail can really wreak havoc with tents and canopies.  Put your awnings and canopies away as soon as you can.  About all you can do to protect your tent is put a tarp over it to absorb some of the impact.  Or take it down and wait out the storm in your vehicle or some other available structure.  Dime size hail can be annoying and inflict minor damage but hail can get larger -- sometimes as big as baseballs!  And when that happens, it is VERY dangerous, even deadly.  Imagine being struck by  a chuck of ice 3" in diameter that has fallen several thousand feet and is likely to have reached terminal velocity (the fastest speed it can fall given size, weight, and atmospheric resistance).   The terminal velocity of hail is roughly proportional to the square root of its diameter.   to A 1cm hailstone will have a terminal velocity around 50 mph.

If you start to experience hail on the highway, try to find shelter under a bridge or overpass until the hail stops. Be sure there is room to get far enough out of traffic lanes so you don't create a hazard for other drivers and risk getting hit. Sometimes you can get some shelter by parking next to a building if you can find an appropriately configured parking lot. Getting under the canopies at fueling stations would protect your rig from the hail, but it isn't ethical to tie up the pumps except while you're actively fueling your rig. A sudden hail storm might be a good excuse to stop and top off your tanks. An abandoned gas station would be perfect for a longer stay, if too many other drivers haven't already beaten you to it!

If you're already set up in camp when it starts to hail there isn't much you can do about your vehicle but you can make sure portable equipment and OHVs are brought in or placed under shelter before they are damaged. Also, make sure all your awnings are properly stored at the signs of an approaching storm. You want to roll up your awnings before they get wet -- and before any gusty winds can damage them up or make rolling them up difficult.

If it hails long enough, it could create make the roads slick.  If the road starts getting covered with hail, treat it like you would snow.  Slow down, give yourself extra room for stopping and turning; leave extra space between you and the vehicle in front of  you; avoid sharp or sudden changes in direction.

Did your mom ever tell you to stay off the phone during a thunderstorm?   There is some validity to that old wives tale.  Lightning striking power or phone poles many miles away can send a potentionally lethal charge down the wires.  If you're boondocking you usually don't have to worry about power line strikes, but you may want to take precautions, like disconnecting from the campground power outlets (or even phone, TV cable, and wired Internet connections), during a thunderstorm when in a campground.  A strike many miles away could cause a surge that could damage the electrical systems in your RV.  You can equip your RV with surge protectors, but they are fairly expensive.  Still, they can save many times their cost and a lot of inconvenience by preventing electrical damage.  An electrical surge can fry wiring and start a fire too.  If you don't have a surge protector you might want to completely disconnect all wiring from the campground during a thunderstorm, just to be safe.

If you're out on the trails (hiking, horseback riding, or OHV riding) when it starts to hail, seek immediate shelter. Get back to camp if you can or look for someplace to get you and your mount (furry or mechanical) under cover. Get into a large culvert or under a bridge (be alert for flash floods!), get into a cave or tunnel or under an overhanging ledge or go into a grove of trees. Trees may not completely block all the hail but they should stop and/or slow down some of it, and that's better than standing out in the open.  Don't stop under a single tall tree.  It may serve as a lightning rod!

Keep your helmet on as long as you are out in the hail. Helmets are required for riding dirt bikes and ATVs in many areas and it is ALWAYS a good idea. Even small hail can be very painful and inflict some injuries.   Some folks have equestrian helmets for horseback riding. They aren't as fashionably appealing as a cowboy hat but they'll do a lot more good if you get knocked off, fall, or are thrown and they can prevent a nasty headache if it starts to hail.  Did you know more people suffer head injuries from equestrian accidents than from motorcycle accidents?  Yet there is no outcry for equestrian helmet laws.

Don't get dinged!