Trash Bags for RVing, Camping, and Boating

Trash can be a problem when RVing, Camping, or Boating.   A lot of our camping food and supplies comes in disposable containers that often generate even more trash than we normally do at home.  Paper and plastic cups, plates, and utensils are very convenient for camping but do add up to more trash to take care of.   At home we just toss all our trash into the nearest wastebasket, which gets dumped into the trash can, and picked up by the waste management company at the street every week.  In camp or on a boat we have to collect our trash and store it for later disposal.   Some campgrounds and marinas have dumpsters you can put your trash in but you will have to pack it out when you are boondocking or camping in a primitive camp site.  Very few RVs or boats and no tents I've ever seen have any built in provisions for collecting or storing trash.  So trash bags area the obvious solution, even if you bring along a wastebasket -- trash bags collect nasty stuff that can be hard to clean from waste baskets.  'Pack it in, pack it out' is one of the original tenets of back country travel.  It is something everyone who participates in remote outdoor activities should live by.  Trash bags make that easier.

My brother once observed that trash bags are the perfect consumer product:  people buy them just to throw them away -- and then buy more!

A lot, but not all trash can be safely disposed of in campfires.  Pressurized containers, batteries, and even tin cans should not be put in campfires.  Aluminum cans may burn up, but do you really want to breathe vaporized aluminum in the smoke?  I can't imagine that doing anything good for lungs!  And every can you toss in the fire means you are throwing away that 10 cent deposit!  Recycling aluminium cans can be tedious, but it can we worth it.  A group who collected aluminum cans after the Holiday Farm Fire in Oregon amassed more than $25,000 in less than a year to aid victims of the fire.  The bulk can be reduced by crushing the cans but some recycling places only accept uncrushed cans.  If you take your recycling to where it is weighed, crushed cans are OK.  Burning paper plates is usually OK and even burning styrofoam and plastic utensils isn't all that bad an idea and the more you can burn the less you have to hang onto and transport home.

Of course, if you have room, you can bring along a convenient sized waste basket or trash can to collect trash during your outing.  But sometimes that isn't very convenient because it takes up so much room in your vehicle.  A handy alternative for use in RVs, campers, and boats is a plastic bag holder that an be hung on a cabinet door or even a picnic table.  It makes an easy, readily available place to deposit refuse for future disposal in a dumpster or your home trash can.  These plastic bag holders are usually designed to use the regular plastic bags that we bring our groceries and other items home in, giving us a good opportunity to recycle those pesky plastic bags.  Even if you use a wastebasket it is a good idea to line it with a trash bag.  It makes it a lot easier to dispose of the trash and minimizes having to clean the waste basket.  Trash bags can be easily tied off to contain odors and minimize unwanted spills.

Grocery bags are sometime the right size for small waste baskets and those little plastic trash bag holders that fasten onto cabinet doors  but you will probably need larger, commercial trash bags for kitchen-size units.  There are typically two styles:  draw string and the kind where you have to tie the corners together to close the bag.   Drawstring bags are obviously more convenient but usually cost a little more.  Kitchen bags are usually 13 gallon capacity.  Regardless of the style of bag you will find different qualities and strengths depending on brand and price.  The better bags cost more of course but are not as likely to tear and dump your nasty trash all over the floor or the trail and your feet!  If you are lucky, your bags will fit your kitchen-sized waste basket snugly.  If they are a little small they can usually be stretched.  Take care stretching them.  If there are any sharp corners or edges on the can, put the bag over them first to avoid tearing the bag if you try to stretch it over sharp spots.  If they are too big, gather the excess on one side and twist it about 6 times and tuck the twist up under the edge of now snug top of the bag.  Kitchen trash bags are usually strong enough to handle normal kitchen trash but you may need extra strong bags or double them up if you have extra heavy trash like bottles or lots of wet food waste.  Double up bags for heavy loads.  You never want your trash bag to tear and drop stuff all over the place, especially if there is a lot of wet, heavy, nasty garbage!

Draw-string bag are easy to close and can be re-opened if you need to add something.  There is a draw-string (usually a brightly colored strip of plastic, orange or yellow are the ones I've seen) inside the top seam of the bag.  Look for half moon shaped cutouts an each side of the top of the bag to grasp the draw-string and pull it tight to close the bag.  These draw-strings are usually about the same strength as the bag itself and should be adequate to pull it pretty tightly closed and maybe even strong enough to use as handles to carry it, but don't pull too hard or use them to carry really heavy bags or you could tear them.

Handle-close bags are a little more difficult to close and, depending on how tight you tie the knots, can be difficult or even impossible to re-open.  You need to leave a little extra room at the top of the bag in order to have enough bag to tie.  Grab the top of the bag on opposite sides, pull tight, put a few twist in each side to roll the bag  corners into a kind of rope shape, then tie the two ends together.  Use just a single over-hand knot if you think you will need to re-open the bag.  For permanent closure (for transport and disposal) tie a second knot. then grab the remaining ends or corners and tie them together with a double knot.  Tying up all four corners keeps the bag more secure and reduces the chance of spills.

You may want to set up separate collections bags for trash and recyclables.  It is kind of nice to get back that 10 cent deposit on every aluminum can and plastic water bottle and its better for the environment.  Using separate bags lets you easily take your combustible trash to burn in the campfire or put in dumpster.  Be careful not to burn bags with large amounts of rotting food that might create a nasty smell around the campfire and avoid burning plastics as they can create toxic fumes that could make you sick.  Never put aerosol cans in the campfire as they can explode sending shrapnel and burning embers all over the place.  Tin cans won't burn, just accumulate in and mess up the fire pit.  Some with glass bottles.  Only put combustible material in the campfire.

RV stores often sell devices to store grocery bags for later use.   I have tried both hard plastic containers and soft cloth ones and both have served well.  You can usually stuff new bags into the top and pull bags out the bottom to use.  The plastic trash bag holders are often designed specifically to hold grocery bags neatly and you will seldom fit enough trash into a grocery bag to overload it or make it too heavy to easily carry.  The bags are originally designed to carry fairly heavy loads of groceries.

The plastic bags retailers use to corral our purchases are often a convenient size for trash collection during our outings. And it is a nice way to get a little extra use out them and even save a little money and avoid adding even more trash bags to the land fill.  However, if you have a larger wastebasket in your RV or camper you will probably need kitchen size (13 gallon) trash bags.  I prefer the drawstring style over the handle style.  They are easier to close and can be reopened if you have a last minute addition or two.

Kitchen sized bags are often available with some kind of scent to offset bad odors in the trash.  Whether or not it is worth any extra cost is up to you.  You may be able to spray ordinary trash bags and containers with air freshner or Fabreze as an alternative.  Scented bags might be helpful if you frequently have to deal with smelly trash but probably aren't necessary for ordinary waste like packaging.

Lawn or contractor trash bags come in larger sizes, usually about 30 gallons.  They too can be purchased with and without drawstrings.  The heavier plastic of contractor bags handles larger loads and is a good place to collect and store trash until you can dispose of it properly in a dumpster or your home trash can.  I prefer the drawstring bags because they can be easily opened and closed to add trash throughout your outing.  Lawn and contractor trash bags are usually black but can be found in yellow and orange and sometimes other colors.  The yellow and orange ones can be used for emergency signals and are a little more attractive if you have to use them for emergency rain ponchos.  It usually isn't practical to bring along large trash cans when RVing, camping, or boating but you can get folding trash bag holders that are easy to transport and hold your bags open for easy use, giving you a large trash container in camp.  Years ago I made my own out of the framework of an old bag chair.

Large trash bags can be used as emergency rain ponchos.  Just cut a slit in the middle of the bottom and one in each bottom corner.  The middle slit goes over your head and the corner slits let you get your hands out if you need to get hold of something.   

You might cut a large trash bag open to make a small tarp to cover equipment you leave outside during a surprise rain storm or even tie it overhead for emergency rain protection.

My first choice for trash bags for camping etc is to recycle the pesky plastic bags my groceries and supplies come in but I also find it useful to keep a supply of kitchen and contractor bags in my RV and even in my boat!  I usually buy mine at my local Dollar Tree but buying larger packages at a home center or grocery store might cost less per bag.  I find the smaller packages convenient for camping and boating and lower purchase price attractive.  For home use I prefer buying my bags in bulk at a big box store like Costco or Walmart to save money and make sure I always have plenty on hand.

Bag it!

Keeping Your Feet Warm When RVing, OHVing, Camping and Boating

Your feet, like your hands, are ''extremities'' and, as such, are subject to difficulties keeping them warm in cold weather.  After all, your toes are the furthest away from your heart, which supplies warm blood to your entire body.  The distance blood has to flow and the amount of blood available to those areas limits how much heat reaches your toes.   Further more, your body reduces blood flow to extremities when it gets cold to preserve the heat in your core to keep your organs functioning.  Wiggling or exercising your toes can sometimes help increase blood flow enough to help keep them warm.

Good, dry, insulated boots are a first good step toward keeping your feet warm.   In really wet weather you may need to wear rubber boots or galoshes or over-shoes to keep your feet dry.  Insulated work boots help prevent you from losing the heat from your feet.  Snow-boots are usually made of fabric and can be quite warm and comfortable but might not provide the impact protection you need for many outdoor activities.  You can buy insulated OHV boots, cowboy boots and insulated hiking and work boots.

A good sock system is another way to keep your feet warm.  And yes, that is a sock system, not just a pair of socks.  A proper sock system will include a fairly thin layer next to your skin that can wick away perspiration and protect your skin against abrasive movement that can cause blisters.  On top of that you will want to wear appropriate layer(s) for insulation to prevent heat loss and keep the warmth your feet get from your blood from escaping.  Wool is an excellent material for socks as it continues to retain its insulating quality even it it gets wet.  Summer and winter I usually wear a pair of thin dress socks beneath my motocross socks in my OHV boots to prevent chafing and blisters.  They make my feet noticeably hotter in the summer but do seem to ad a bit of insulation in the winter.

Tall boots will keep your feet warmer than low topped shoes.  Close fitting tops will retain heat better than loose, open tops.  Tall boots or gaiters will help keep your legs warm, which in turn, will keep the blood going to your feet warmer.  With that in mind, wearing full length thermal underwear can also help keep your feet as well as your legs warmer.

Chemical heat pads are available to help keep your feet warm.  You usually place them near your toes as they are the most vulnerable to heat loss.  They typically last about 8 hours but sometimes will need to be pulled out and reactivated by shaking.  Do that in a warm environment if possible so you won't lose more heat than you gain!

Battery-powered electrically heated socks are another option.  Personally, I haven't found them to be very effective.  In the first place they didn't get very warm and in the second place the batteries didn't last very long.   I also found the bulk of the batteries banging around my ankles kind of uncomfortable.  I only tried one brand so there may be better ones out there.  For me warmer boots and warmer socks are a better solution.

Just stomping your feet or wiggling your toes can help simulate blood flow to help ward off the cold.   Rolling your ankles might help bring more blood to your feet too.

Getting your feet next to a campfire or other heat source is a good way to warm them up.  Just be careful you don't get too close for too long.  You can easily get up the soles of your boots enough to burn your feet if you aren't careful.   When dirt biking in the desert we liked to build our campfire in what we called R2D2, and old washing machine tub.  I put it on an outdoor RV table pedestal to lift it a few inches off the ground so we could stick our could toes underneath to get them warm.  I've seen people put their boots right into a campfire to get their feet warm but be aware that by the time you begin to feel the heat the soles and steel shank may have gotten hot enough to burn you before you could get your feet out of your boots so exercise caution if you every resort to this!   Campfires and stoves are also a good pace to warm up your boots before you put them before going outside for a little added comfort on cold days.  Be aware that it takes time for the heat to penetrate your boots.  Don't keep your feet too close to the fire for too long.  If you wait until it starts to feel too hot the residual heat will probably cause burns even after you move away from the fire.  If your footwear or pants start smoking, back away from the fire immediately!

If you have a warm environment available (RV, cabin, vehicle, tent, etc) you can go inside and remove your cold boots and tuck your feet into a blanket, warm towel, or sleeping bag to get them warm.   I find that kind of sitting Indian style and tucking one foot behind the knee of my other leg and clamping it between the thigh and calf helps warms my foot from both sides, then switching sides every few minutes until both feet are warm.  That might a really important if you are think you are starting to get frostbite.  I use an old pair of snow boots as my ''desert bedroom slippers" when camping.  They are easy to get on and off and keep my feet warm around camp.

When boating, keeping your feet dry will go a long way towards keeping them warm.  Being out on the water means you have a good chance of getting water in your boat and your feet are likely to be subject to more extensive exposure than other parts of your body.  In wet weather or when dealing with a lot of waves splashing into the boat, wear waterproof shoes or boots instead of the canvas shoes you normally wear.  When you feet do get wet, change into dry socks and shoes as soon as it is practical.  Lacking waterproof footwear I have seen folks tie plastic bags over their shoes for some protection.  Some folks prefer going barefoot on their boats.  While it exposes your feet to abrasion and other injuries proper foot gear might protect against, it does allow you to dry your feet quickly and avoid the consequences of sitting around in wet shoes and socks.  Allowing your feet to remain wet can result in additional injury or damage to your skin so keeping them warm and dry becomes a priority.  Weather permitting, going barefoot will let you dry your feet more easily as needed.

Speaking of frostbite, contrary to a very old bit of folk medicine NEVER rub snow on frostbitten areas.  This practice was definitively proven  ineffective and even dangerous way back in the 1950s.  Frozen areas should be rapid warmed up using moist, controlled heat.  Putting frozen skin near a campfire or hot stove can result in burning the frozen flesh!  Tuck frozen extremities next to warm body parts (yours or someone else's), put them next to hot water bottle, or cover them in warm water.  BTW, don't rub frozen skin with anything as rubbing will further damage the affected tissues.

Now you're hot footin' it!

Keeping Your Hands Warm When RVing, OHVing, Camping and Boating

We use our hands a lot during outdoor recreational activities.  In cold weather or even cooler days in the warm weather we may need help keeping our hands warm.  As ''extremities'' our hands are one of the first places to get cold.  They have quite a bit of surface area that allows heat to escape and the flow of blood to warm them is somewhat limited by location and the size of blood vessels supplying blood to the fingers.  Your toes are even more susceptible to the cold.  Furthermore, when your body starts getting cold it limits blood flow to the extremities in order to maintain heat to your organs that is critical to survival.  Using (exercising) your fingers and toes can help keep to keep them warmer because it increases blood flow.

Keeping your hand warm is a lot more than just for comfort.  We need our hands to perform a myriad of tasks in camp and on our vehicles and vessels.  Cold hands get stiff and loose strength, significantly reducing dexterity and our ability to perform necessary tasks.  You don't want to let your fingers get so cold they get stiff and you can't safely manipulate controls and tools.  Letting them get TOO cold risks frostbite and permanent damage.

Gloves and mittens are the primary ways to keep our hands warm when needed.  Gloves provide more dexterity; mittens do a better job of keeping your fingers warm.  Any kind of sturdy gloves you use for manual tasks will help to keep your hands warmer, but as the temperature drops you are going to want to get insulated gloves or add glove liners.  For OHV riding you can by ''Windchill'' gloves that are designed to keep your hands warmer or you can add glove liners to your regular OHV gloves.  We have found simple, inexpensive knitted gloves work pretty well as glove liners.  Mittens help keep your fingers warmer because they allow your fingers to share heat and reduce the exposed surface area for heat loss but you sacrifice some dexterity and control.  Light weight "kiddie"gloves usually fit better under regular OHV cloves than heavier jersey gloves.

Many outdoor activities require good dexterity.   You need it for operating almost any kind of equipment in camp, on the trail, on the road, or on a boat.  For that you need warm gloves that allow you to get a good grip on whatever you need to do.  Ski gloves work pretty well in many cases but sometimes they are a little too bulky and even though they work well in snow are not always waterproof enough to protect your hands from rain or from splashing on your boat.  You might need to look for waterproof gloves for those situations.  For OHVs go for Windchill gloves or put some liners in your OHV gloves.  I've seen guys try to use latex gloves inside for another layer and bit of moisture protection but it seems to me usually all it does is capture the sweat inside!

When gloves are not enough you might want to try hand warmers.  A common type of hand warmer is a chemical hand warmer.  These come in foil packets which, when opened, allow air to activate a chemical reaction inside the packet to create heat.  You normally crumple the packets in your hand to facilitate activation and can usually boost the warmth after they begin to cool down by taking them and and crumpling and shaking them again.  You place them inside your gloves.  You can put them on your palms if they won't be in the way of whatever you need to do with your hands (like grip an OHV handlebar) or on the back of your hand.  Either way they provide extra heat inside your gloves to help keep your hands warm.   Chemical hand warmers usually are designed to last about 8 hours.  Sometimes you can reactivate them if they begin to cool down during use by taking them and and shaking them in the open air.  There are also reusable hand warmers that typically run on the same fuels (lighter fluid or butane) as cigarette lighters.  Reusability is a nice feature and you can use them for almost an unlimited time as long as you can keep supplying sufficient fuel.  However, they tend to be stiff and bulky so they sometimes interfere with necessary dexterity more than chemical hand warmers.

I have seen and even tried battery-powered electrically heated gloves.  While I really like the idea I haven't found the ones I've tried to be terribly successful.  Might just have been the ones I tried, but they didn't do a very good job of warming my hands in the first place and the batteries seemed to run down pretty quickly as well as adding uncomfortable weight to my hands and arms.  I found just wearing warmer gloves worked better for me -- and were less expensive!

Lacking hand warmers, just rubbing your hands together or using them actively can help stimulate blood flow and help warm them up.  Rubbing them together can generate friction that creates a little heat and stimulates the muscles to increase blood flow.  Another trick is to tuck your hands someplace next to your body where they can get extra warmth such as under your arms or between your legs.  Putting them in the pockets of your coat or pants can also help.  Doing so usually provides some additional insulation and protection against heat loss and often allows heat from other, larger parts of your body to help warm them.  Also, as you get cold, your body restricts blood flow to extremities to preserve core temperature, so putting you hands nearer your core will allow them to absorb extra heat from body parts that still get more blood to keep them warm.  Skin-to-skin will warm your fingers faster than through gloves and/or clothing but even tucking your gloved hands into your armpits of your jacket for a while will help take the chill off.

Most of the glove options for OHVs and camping would work pretty well for boating too, although the added probability of getting them wet may dictate the use of water resistant or waterproof gloves.  I found that knit gardening gloves with rubber or latex grip worked well on my sailboat.  They weren't waterproof, but they protected my hands and would dry out without being damaged or losing functionality when I did get them wet.

A common injury from cold hands is frostbite.  Obviously you want to avoid this if at all possible.  Frostbite is when your skin begins to freeze.  The water inside your cells will expand as it freezes, damaging cell walls.  In the earliest stage of frostbite, known as frostnip, there is no permanent damage to skin. Symptoms include cold skin and a prickling feeling, followed by numbness and inflamed or discolored skin.  If you begin experiencing frostnip or seeing in your companions, take immediate action to warm the affected areas before permanent damage occurs.  Contrary to a popular folk treatment, you should NOT put affected areas in snow or rub them with snow.  The best treatment is protect the affected areas from further damage, warm them up, and, if necessary, use pain medication for added comfort.  Avoid hot, dry sources of heat.  Warm water is a good way to thaw frozen fingers.  Holding them under a hot air dryer may cause more damage.  It is not uncommon for over-eager attempts to warm frozen body parts to result in burns since the frozen parts don't have any feeling to warm you when they are getting too warm.

Campfires and wood stoves are good places to warm your hands if you are careful.   Just don't get your hands close enough or leave them long enough to get burned!  They are also good places to warm your gloves or mittens before you put them on for a little additional comfort.  Once again, exercise caution to make sure you don't burn them or get them TOO hot before putting them on!

One way to warm your bare hands is to blow on them.  Blowing with an open mouth will provide warm air to you hands.  Blowing with pursed lips will simply act as a breeze to cool them, like it does cooling your soup or hot drink.  I heard a story of medieval knight who was accused of being a witch or wizard because he could blow both hot (to warm his hands) and cold (to cool his soup). BTW, to blow cold, purse your lips and blow a small fast stream of air; to blow warm, open your mouth and breath out large slower puffs of air.

Keep 'em warm!

Waterproofing Camping and Boating Gear

Waterproof camping and boating gear seems like kind of a no-brainer.  Shouldn't ALL camping, and especially boating gear be waterproof?  Maybe it should, but not everything you buy is waterproof -- or even water resistant.  But that is an oversight you can usually correct.

We usually don't set out to participate in outdoor recreational activities in bad weather, but is all too common for some to strike while we are enjoying the great outdoors.  When that happens, it is good to have waterproof or at least water resistant gear.

A lot, but not all, of camping and boating gear and apparel will come from the factory waterproofed.  Some fabrics are naturally waterproof or at least water resistant.  For those items that do not include factory waterproofing or for items that may have lost some of their waterproof capabilities due to normal wear and tear or abuse, you can often solve the problem with a product like Camp Dry spray.  It is not too expensive and is very easy to use.  Just spray a coat or two on clean dry items like tents, jackets, gloves, and footware.  It is said to work well on tents, tarps, boots, hunting apparel, outdoor gear, boat covers, and more.  I have used it for years to waterproof my OHV, cowboy boots, hiking boots, and to improve the waterproofing on coats, tents and awnings.  I figure it will be good to use on the main sail cover on my sailboat.  I have even heard of people using it on canvas shoes, which could be a real boon to boaters.  Be sure to test it on an inconspicuous spot on light colored materials to avoid permanent stains.

The first step in waterproofing your camping or boating gear is to make sure the item is clean and dry.  Be sure to brush debris and caked on dirt from the seams of boots and shoes.  Remove any stains you can.  You will want to set up your tent and make sure it is pulled tight when spraying your tent to ensure complete and even coverage.   You may also want to waterproof your packs.  Pay special attention to seams on all items:  tents, awnings, gloves, boots, shoes, and jackets.  Those are often the most likely points of leakage and need the most protection.

Camp Dry normally dries in abut 24 hours and cures completely in about 72 hours so you want to allow some time after applying it before using the items and subjecting them to precipitation.    Some forms of waterproofing can seal surfaces too well, causing them to trap moisture inside as well as keeping it out.   Camp Dry says it has no effect on the breatheability of fabrics when applied per the manufacturers instructions.  Attempting to waterproof items with other kinds of sealant may destroy breatheability and make them uncomfortable to wear.  Non-approved chemicals may cause damage to many materials.  If possible, test any protective product someplace it won't normally be seen to be sure it is safe to use on the full item.

Items protected with this kind of waterproofing will not stand up to being submerged for any length of time but normally does a good job of protecting them from normal dew, rain, and snow.  Camp Dry can even help protect parkas and other snow gear against melting snow.  I've seen way too many snow-rated garments that let melting snow in so as soon as you step in out of the cold and the snow melts you start to get soaked!  Camp Dry and similar products are designed to waterproof fabrics and footwear and are not designed to waterproof equipment.  You can use it to waterproof a canvas or heavy fabric bag to protect your cell phones or radios but don't use it on the devices themselves.  If you are looking for something that protects even when submerged, remember you will also need some way to seal the items where they contact your body.  Waterproof boots can still get wet inside when submerged because water can soak down between your leg and the boot.  Waterproof gloves may allow water to enter through the cuff when submerged.  I have seen people use duct tape to seal boots and gloves but it can be painful to remove when it gets stuck to your skin.

I have not had any problems nor heard of any problems with Camp Dry staining or otherwise altering the color of anything I've used it on, but, as always, try to test it on an inconspicuous area before applying to the entire item just to be sure.    I have used it on canvas, nylon, leather, and even suede, on jackets, gloves, shoes, and boots,  Even on my OHV riding pants!  I haven't tried it on riding jerseys.  I suspect the open weave that provides adequate breathability wouldn't be easily sealed against rain and I usually rely on a light jacket or poncho for upper body rain protection on the trail.

Applying waterproofing to boots or gloves is NOT a substitute for waterproof boots and gloves.   Applying waterproofing can help prevent water from easily penetrating materials but it is no substitute for truly waterproof  construction, like rubber boots or rubber gloves.

Another option is to put your stuff in dry bags.  Dry bags are often used on boats and can provide excellent water protection for gear in camp.  Dry bags are especially useful for things you normally wouldn't apply waterproofing to, such as clothing, socks, and underwear.  If you don't have any dry bags you can get some protection by putting your stuff in plastic trash bags and closing them tightly.  Of course that only works well for things you have in storage, not things you are wearing or actively using.

Stay dry!

 

RVing, OHVing, Camping, and Boating Weather

Weather can play a significant role in whether our outdoor recreational outings are successful and enjoyable or an utter and complete failure.  The old adage about raining on someone's picnic has definite roots in historical reality.  I am sure most of us have had at least one picnic, BBQ, or camping trip spoiled or at least dampened by rain.  

Perfect weather for outdoor activities is not something you can easily define.  What is perfect for one activity or one group may not be perfect for another activity or group.  For example, most of us would prefer to have fairly calm days for our outdoor activities or maybe just a mild breeze to help keep us cooler and more comfortable.  But is you are going sailing, you will need more wind to move your sailcraft.  Most camping and off-roading is done in summer months and avoids snow and other cold, wet weather.  But, if you are going snowmobiling, ice fishing, or cross country skiing, you absolutely need cold, snowy weather.  Most off-road riding is done in clear, dry weather, but riding after a light rain helps reduce dust and increase traction.  Sometimes getting a light rain out on the trail can be refreshing -- as long as there isn't enough to get you soaked and you can dry out before getting hypothermia, which can be life threatening if not caught and treated soon enough.

Most of us would prefer to go RVing, OHVing, Camping, or Boating when the weather is good.  So what does good weather look like?  Well, in most cases you want clear skies and warm (not too hot) days (probably in the low70s F), with no precipitation.  However, if you are going snowmobiling or ice fishing, the ideal weather could be quite different!  If you are into sailing you need wind, something most of us would rather avoid for outdoor recreation.  We once encountered winds so strong on a dirt biking trip in the Mojave Desert that they literally blew bikes and riders over when they reached the top of a hill and got caught in a crosswind.  Definitely NOT ideal OHV riding conditions!  We usually avoided riding in rain or snow or even really hot weather.  A pretty good target for good outdoor recreation weather would be a clear, calm, day with temperatures in the low 70s F.  Lower temperatures will require you to dress warmer; hotter temps will demand cooling techniques.   Sailors will want to look for steady winds somewhere around 10-12 knots.  Lower winds don't provide enough energy to move boats comfortably;  higher winds can create dangerous situations out on the water.

Human beings are most comfortable in an environment around 70F - 72F.  However we are also quite adaptable.  We can usually dress up or down to accommodate slight variation in that temperature and still be relatively comfortable.  That being said, almost of us will plan and enjoy outdoor activities when we stick to reasonable weather ranges.  You probably don't need to make a lot of changes in your planned activities or your basic wardrobe as long as outside temperatures are in the 60-80F range.  Temperatures below 60F will require dressing warmer and when it gets above 80F you are going to want better ways of keeping cool, and may be forced to limit your activities to avoid hyperthermia (heat illness).  Swimming and other on-the-water activities are attractive pastimes for hot days and can help keep you cool.

The best weather may differ depending on what activities you are planning.  Normal camping where you mostly sit around and enjoy the scenery and ambiance is most comfortable in mild temperatures around 72F.  Water sports can be enjoyed during hotter weather.  OHV riding is usually adaptable to a wider range of temperatures, with cooler days being more comfortable than warmer ones.  Hiking or any other highly physical activity will thrive in cooler temperatures and become tedious and unpleasant as things warm up.  Light rain may or may not be an issue, depending on available canopies, enclosed vehicles, and good rain gear.  Heavy rain is almost always a deterrent to outdoor recreation.  Windy days can spoil your picnics and campfires and I've even seen winds strong enough to blow over dirt bikers when they topped a hill.  However, a certain amount of wind is good and even necessary if you are going sailing and light breezes are usually beneficial in camp and for camp fires.  A light breeze is welcome on warmer days.  Cloudy days can moderate temperatures but you may still be subjected to UV rays that can cause a sunburn and cloudy days can inhibit good lighting for photography.  If you are doing any winter activities (skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, ice skating, ice fishing, etc) you will need near or below freezing temperatures and snowy conditions.

Keep in mind the weather when you arrive at your destination could be very different that the weather around your house when you leave home.  We often deliberately drive several hours to a different climate so be sure to check the weather at your destination before you leave home.   Mountain campgrounds are a frequent choice of campers.  Be aware that many large mountains can create their own localized weather that might not show up in a regional forecast, so check with someone who knows the area before you go.  That might include rangers, law enforcement, merchants, and fellow campers who have been there before.  I once worked a summer job at a mountain resort and we got rain at about 1:00 almost every day, regardless of what was in the regional forecast.  You could almost set your watch by it!

There are several good resources available to you to predict and monitor the weather.  These days most of us rely heavily on electronic devices to provide us with information.  Internet weather service usually provide a good idea of what is going to happen.  NOAA radios give you regular updates just about where ever you might be.  You can get local AM and FM radio stations on your car or portable radios.  Another good source for local weather information is the sky.  Unfortunately, a lot of us mostly city-dwellers have never learned how to read the sky for clues about the weather but you can learn basics from the how to read the sky link.  There are also handy guides to wind strength you can use to judge velocity based on what you can see around you.  Here is a link to chart for Estimating Wind Speeds With Visual Clues. You can also purchase portable weather stations you can use just about anywhere to monitor temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, wind speed, and even precipitation.  Some aids don't require electronics.  Even airplane pilots still use wind socks to monitor wind direction and strength and a small one hanging in your camp and do the same for you.

One of my favorite weather station stories is about the weather string or rope, a very simple device but it is surprisingly accurate. If you can see it, the sun (or moon) is shining.  If you can't see it, it is either dark outside or a strong wind blew it away.  If it is moving it is windy--and you can actually get a good idea how hard the wind is blowing and which direction.  If it is wet it is raining.  If is it blurry there is fog.  If it is frozen it is cold outside.  Tried to link the image below to the etsy.com page where you could buy one, but it didn't work.  If you want one do an online search for "redneck weather rope" and you should get several affordable options.  Or, if you are crafty, make your own!

 

                                            

Sometimes you may want to alter your plans if the weather is not suitable.  Having a comfortable RV or tent where you can escape unpleasant weather is nice.  If the weather gets too bad for your accommodations you might need to head home or seek better shelter.  Other times you may only need to adjust your wardrobe.  In any case, it always behooves you to check the weather where you are going before you get there!

Happy forecasting!

Keeping Cool When RVing, OHVing, Camping, and Boating

Keeping cool during our outdoor activities can sometimes be more difficult than staying warm.  After all, there is only so much clothing you can remove to cool down and you can almost always add more layers to stay warm!  Of course, having some cool place, like an air conditioned RV, vehicle, boat or cabin or even a shady awning or canopy or tree will provide wonderful respite from the heat.  But many times we will be involved in outdoor activities on hot days and need to know hot to stay as cool as possible during those times.

If you do have an air conditioned RV or boat you will want to make sure the air conditioner is properly maintained and operating efficiently before you head out.  I like to begin cooling my rig early in the day rather than wait until it uncomfortably warm inside.  I believe it is less stress on the air conditioner and the generator and I KNOW it is more comfortable for me and my family!

Dressing for the weather is the primary key to staying cool during outdoor activities.  Loose fitting, light weight clothing that allows adequate ventilation for perspiration to evaporate is usually the best choice for staying cool.  Think about how desert nomads dress:  loose, flowing robes that essentially provide portable shade for them wherever they go.  Light colors will stay cooler in sunlight than dark colors.  Those pastels may not be the most macho looking, but they are going to be a lot cooler.  While T-shirts and tank tops are popular choices for summer wear, loose fitting long sleeved shirts may actually keep you cooler along with protecting you from sunburn.

A good broad-brimmed hat is a good option for protecting your head and face.  For hot days I like a straw hat that I can soak with water for even better cooling.

A bandanna around your neck will help protect against sunburn and when soaked with water will help cool you more than you might expect.  For one thing, there are large blood vessels in your neck that can be cooled by the wet bandanna, thereby helping cool your brain and even other parts of  your body.

When boating you can, of course, wear swimwear which allows you to plunge into the water when you need to cool off.  However, exercise caution and use plenty of sunblock when sitting around in swimwear because you will be exposing a lot more tender flesh to the sun than you normally do.

Anytime you are near the water you may be able to go into the water to cool down.   There are a few exceptions.  You aren't going to cool down going into hot springs but you might cool down once you come out, especially if there is a breeze.  Never enter contaminated water or go into water where human contact is prohibited.  Exercise caution where ever there are other people in the water.  You never know what kind of pollution they might be introducing.

Evaporation is one of the best ways to cool down.  Our bodies are even designed to use evaporation to help regulate body temperature.  That is why we sweat.  Dressing in clothing that facilitates enough ventilation to allow evaporation is one way to help our bodies take care of themselves.  When that isn't enough we can sometimes wet at least some parts of our clothing and/or skin to increase evaporation and aid cooling.  We can also spritz parts of our exposed skin with water.  The application of cool mist is refreshing and it will help cool us down as it evaporates.  My family and I keep spray bottles with clean water in our RV and boat (and near the patio at home) just for that purpose.   

Options for keeping cool when operating an OHV are somewhat limited.  Unless you have an enclosed side-by-side with A/C (very rare!) about your only option it to keep moving so the apparent breeze carries away unwanted heat.  You can start by dressing as lightly as possible.  Avoid wearing thick underwear that will trap heat.  Dress in light colors to minimize solar heating.  Avoid riding during the hotter parts of the day.  When riding in the Mojave Desert in summer we usually did two rides a day:  one in the early morning and then another one in later afternoon/early evening.  On occasion the evening rides ended up in us not getting back to camp until well after dark.  It was a real challenge leading 18 or so dirt bike through the desert with only 1 or 2 having headlights!  You will want to avoid staying out on the trails after dark unless you are properly prepared for night rides!

Keep your cool!

Keeping Warm When RVing, OHVing, Camping, and Boating

One way to keep warm when RVing, Camping, and Boating is to keep your vehicle, tent or vessel warm so you have a convenient place to escape the cold.  However, when OHVing or when you are outside of your temporary abode, you will need to dress according to the weather in order to keep YOU warm enough to be comfortable.

If you have a heated shelter take advantage of it!  Most RVs and Campers and some boat cabins include furnaces or heaters to maintain comfortable temperatures.  If you are doing any outings during cold weather, be sure your furnace or heater is working properly and that you have sufficient fuel.  If the heating unit in your rig isn't adequate to keep the interior as warm as you would like, look into upgrading the heating unit or adding another one.  Portable propane powered catalytic heaters can be used in most RVs, campers, boats, and even tents.  Although they don't produce toxic fumes they do consume oxygen so you MUST provide adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation when using one.  Electric heaters don't have that problem -- if you have 120 volt power to run them!  See my posts on Keeping Your RV or Camper Warm  and Keeping Your Tent Warm for more information.  Even getting in out of the wind and/or other unfavorable weather can help.  I've heard it said that even having a canopy overhead can raise the temperature beneath it by 20F in cold weather.

When outside the best approach is to dress in layers.  Multiple layers not only provide extra insulation to help keep you warm, they allow you to remove outer layers as necessary when things warm up, either due to high activity or warmer air temperatures.

Base layers usually consist of thermal underwear, sometimes known as "long johns".  They should fit snuggly but not restrict movement.  Traditional thermal underwear is often made of wool, which retains its insulating quality even when wet.  Modern innovations include a number of natural and synthetic blends designed to keep you warm and wick away perspiration.  You may have try some different materials before you find the one that is right for you.

Your next layer will usually be the clothing you normally wear for the activities you will be doing.   On cooler days you might want to wear a warmer flannel or velour long sleeved shirt instead of the light weight short sleeved shirts you probably prefer for most outdoor activities.

Depending on how cold it is, you may want to add a sweater or sweatshirt before donning a jacket or coat.  How heavy a jacket or coat you choose will depend on the outside temperature and the level of  physical activity you expect to be performing.  The colder the outside temperature and the less active you plan to be, the warmer your coat will need to be.

Keeping your hands, feet, and head warm is always a priority.  You will need appropriate warm gloves or mittens to protect your hands.  Mittens are warmer than gloves but you lose some dexterity.  Proper socks and insulated boots will help keep your feet warm.  You can add chemical hand and foot warmers for even more warmth.  If your coat does not have a warm hood you will need to wear a warm hat.  My favorite cold weather hat is a Russian ushanka or "ear hat".  They have flaps that cover your ears and part of your cheeks and are usually made of fur.  In really cold weather, or when riding OHVs in cold weather, you may need a face mask.

When riding an OHV you may want to substitute a Windchill jersey for your normal shirt.  Windchill jereys are designed to provide extra protection against wind and cold air without interfering with movement needed to safely and comfortably operate your off highway vehicle.  In really cold riding weather you may need to add an Enduro jacket.  These are usually made of Gore-Tex to be light weight yet sturdy and are very good at blocking the wind.  They may or may not have linings for additional warmth.  Having one with a removable liner gives you more options.

Anytime you have to deal with rain you will need rain gear.  Even those nice, warm ski parkas are likely to get wet in the rain.  A simple plastic poncho is an easy and inexpensive way to protect your upper body from rain.  They are small enough when folded to fit in a pack or pocket so you can have them ready for unexpected precipitation on the trail.  Rain suits provide even better protection for OHV riders, hikers, and just around camp.  Equestrian riders may want to invest in a slicker, a rain coat long enough to cover your legs while sitting in the saddle.

If you plan and dress appropriately you should be able to stay comfortable in even the coldest weather.  Consider mountain climbers, arctic explorers ad Eskimos who brave extreme weather conditions with high winds and temperatures far below freezing, sometimes for long periods of time.

Always try to have a backup warm up plan -- a warm tent or RV to go to or ate least  place to get in out of the wind and weather.   You can manage quite a lot of cold weather if you can take a break to warm up from time to time.  Maybe just getting in your vehicle and running the heater for a while if you have no other options.  Warm food and drinks are always welcome when you are cold and can actually help return your body temperature to normal.

Stay warm! 

Keeping Your Tent Cool

Let's face it.  The temperature inside tents is difficult to control.  Tent walls are only a fraction of an inch thick, and while they do protect us from wind and rain and snow and sun, they do not do a good job of insulating the interior against changes in the outside temperature. 

The first trick to keeping your tent cool is where you set it up.  Try to set it up in a shady location near a grassy area, stream or body of water.  Doing so will help keep the air around your tent cooler and therefore the air inside your tent cooler.  Take advantage of any shade you can:  trees, awnings and canopies, even the shadow of an RV if you are camped near one.  Try to align windows and doors to take advantage of prevailing breezes.

Provide adequate ventilation.  Trapped, stale area is more likely to capture heat and warm up than moving air.  Moving air will also help you fell cooler and more comfortable.  Open windows on opposite sides of the tent to encourage air flow and make sure one of them is exposed to the prevailing breeze whenever that is possible.  

If you have a rain fly, use it!  Rain flys shade the tent itself and usually provide at least an inch or so air gap between the tent wall and the fly, which helps reduce the transfer of heat into the interior.  You might try shading your tent with a tarp, but without proper spacing it will likely touch the tent fabric in many places it can heat the interior via conduction of heat through the tarp to the tent fabric in into the tent.  Actually, putting a canopy, such as a dining fly over it will  probably work better than draping a tarp over it.  A tarp lying on the tent fabric will allow heat to be conducted between the two fabrics while having the tent in the shade of a canopy will protect the tent from both radiant heat from the sun and conduction from the tarp to the tent fabric.

I have seen people attempt to cool tents by spraying the window screens with water to act like an evaporative cooler.   Or even spraying the tent itself.  That might help a little in dry climates but even the best evaporative coolers don't work well in when the humidity is above 50% and work best below 25%.  Many popular campgrounds are near lakes or streams where the average humidity is often higher.  The small amount of water the thin screen can hold and the limited surface area doesn't allow for very much cooling.   The pads on evaporative coolers are typically an inch or so thick.  You will probably feel cooler spraying the water on your body.  Cooling the tent fabric might help a little, but if it is exposed to direct sunlight it is still going to get hot inside.

One way to feel cooler in your tent is to dress cooler.  Thin, light weight clothing will allow your own body heat to escape more easily, helping you feel cooler.  You can even safely wear T-shirts and shorts or swimwear since you won't be out in the sunlight risking sunburn and UV exposure.

Sometimes you will feel cooler outside your tent than inside.  As the sun warms the tent fabric, the air inside warms up too.  There will almost always be more breeze outside your tent than inside.  Even with the windows open the tent will restrict air flow to some extent, so going outside will usually let you feel cooler and more comfortable.   Find a nice shady spot to cool off in!

Keep cool if you can!

Keeping Your Boat Cool

Some of the tips for keeping an RV cool can be used for keeping your boat cool.  However, boats are different than RVs and have some special considerations.

Finding shade out on the water is usually not an option if you want to ''park'' your boat to cool off.  You might sometimes luck out and find a moorage or anchorage under some trees, but finding an appropriate spot for sailboats with their tall masts will be almost impossible. You will have to bring your own shade with you in the form of tarps or canopies to shield you and parts of your boat from direct sunlight.  You also have to deal with sunlight reflected off the water.

Take advantage of natural breezes when you can.   When we are out boating, most of the time the boat is moving, which creates some artificial breeze even on the calmest of days.  Open hatches and portholes where ever possible to allow as much air flow as you can.  You can also get windscoops that fit over hatches to catch the breeze and funnel it down into the cabin.  Remember that air needs someplace to go so always open a hatch or porthole opposite the one used to catch the breeze.  Otherwise the air flow will be blocked and you won't get any cooling!

Since boats sit in the water and the water is usually a lot cooler than the air, the hull will absorb some of the heat from the cabin.  Having removable insulation, such as foam pads, can allow you to disperse unwanted heat by removing the pads when you need to when things cool down.  You might also splash water up over parts of the deck to help cool down the decking both for greater comfort walking on it barefoot and to remove a little heat from the cabin.

I have successfully used mist systems to cool the patio area under the awning of my RV.   Mist systems might also be used on boats and, since boats sit in the water, you wouldn't need a water tank to supply water for the mist.  What you will need is power for the pump.  If you have sufficient solar panels and/or batteries it could work very well.  You may have already enjoyed mist systems in the long lines at amusement parks.  Mist cools by evaporation and high humidity around large bodies of water might reduce its efficiency, but it still might be worth a try.

I have heard of cooling mattress pads to make sleeping more comfortable but I have not had the opportunity to try them out yet.  Might be worth looking into if you often find it too hot to sleep.  Some circulate liquids to do the cooling.  Be sure you have adequate battery power to run the pump.

Larger yachts and cabin cruisers sometimes might have air conditioning you can use, but they are not practical on smaller boats.  Fans can be used on most boats to move air through the cabins.  Note:  fans do not cool the air.  They only move it so it can it can cool YOU better as it removes heat from your skin by convection and by evaporation of perspiration or water vapor on your skin.

Cruise cool!

Keeping Your RV or Camper Cool

Since a lot of our outdoor activities happen in warmer weather, keeping our temporary abodes cool is usually more of an issue than keeping them warm.  Some, but certainly not all RVs and camper are equipped with air conditioners but even they are not always enough to keep the units as cool as we might like the to be.  Boats have different heating and cooling problems than RVs.  Please see my post on Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature for more information on boats.

Many but certainly not all recreational vehicles have roof air conditioning to cool the interior in camp.   If you are lucky enough to have it and either have campground power or a generator to supply the necessary electricity, by all means, take advantage of it.  Nothing else is going to do nearly as good a job at keeping you cool when it gets hot outside.  If you don't have A/C be sure to check out the suggestions below.  Even if you have A/C you might find some of the  following tips useful to reduce the load on your A/C and generator and keep your more comfortable. 

First of all, try to take advantage of any natural shade and cooling where possible.  Park your unit under safe trees and near grassy areas or water where surface temperatures will be less.  Be sure any trees you park under don't contain loose or broken branches that might fall onto the roof of your rig.  When parking near water, avoid parking in depressions that might collect water if it rains or a flash flood raises the water level of the stream or body of water you are near.  Another trick is to park with the rear of the unit facing the sun most of the day.  Motorhomes have a huge windsheild and even travel trailers often have a large window in the front, both of which can allow a lot of sunlight in to heat the interior.   If you can't orient your unit that way in the available space, try to park with the side that has the smallest amount of glass facing the sun.  The goal is to keep as much of the windows out of the sun as possible to reduce the amount of heat they will admit.

Take advantage of cooler night air to cool down the interior of your rig.  Furnishings, appliances, even upholstery, flooring, and walls, will store heat and make it harder to cool your unit.  Open some window and vents when things cool down outside and use any fans you may have to bring in cool air and/or expel hot air.  Most RVs and campers have at least one 14" roof vent.  You might be surprised how much opening that vent along with  a window or two will allow hot air to escape.  Be sure to remember to open a window or two to allow cool air to enter as hot air escapes out of the vent.  Otherwise, without a place for fresh air to enter, the hot air exiting the vent will be restricted.

Fans don't cool the air but they do cool you.  And they can help move hot air out and cooler air in.  Powered roof vents will help cool your unit faster than unpowered vents.  Air moving over your skin will  draw away heat and evaporate perspiration, making you feel cooler, so fans, either powered or manual, are a good way to feel cooler.  Unpowered vents help expel heat.  Heat rises, so an open vent in the ceiling allows the hottest air to exit.  You will need to open a window a little bit so there is somewhere for cooler air to enter.

When doing a lot of summer camping in the Mojave Desert I added some misters to my awning.   They made the patio space under the awning quite comfortable on hot days and having a cooler space next to at least part of my RV even helped make it easier to keep it cooler inside.  I chose to add a separate water tank and water pump so I didn't deplete my culinary water or burn out my regular water pump running the misters.  Most mist systems you can buy are designed to connect to a garden hose.  You will probably need a way to connect a garden hose to whatever water supply you use or else you will have to plumb the mist systems directly into your RV plumbing.

Awnings will help reduce the amount of sunlight coming through the windows and heating up the interior of your rig.  Take advantage of patios awnings and any window awnings you might have.  Use reflective foam panels on the inside of windows to keep heat and light outside.  These panels can be used with or without awnings.  Also keep all your curtains, drapes, and blinds closed to minimize heat coming in through the windows.

Most RVs and campers come with fairly good wall, ceiling, and floor insulation, but in some cases you might be able to increase the insulation to make it easier to maintain the desired temperature inside.  I had a van camper that relied solely on the air gap between the metal exterior and the interior wall and ceiling paneling for insulation.  Unfortunately the air was still able to move enough to allow convection to transfer heat in and out of the living area.  Filling the gap with Stryofoam panels, fiberglass mats, and/or expanding foam significantly improved the insulation of the living space.

I have found it is usually better to begin cooling my RV early in the day rather than waiting for it to get too warm inside.  It seems to put less load on the A/C and generator and does a better job of keeping the interior comfortable when it gets really hot outside.

Avoid using the stove and oven.  Cook outside or use the microwave so you don't add a lot of unwanted heat to the interior or your rig.  If possible, limit the number of people inside your rig.  Each person adds about as much heat as a 100 watt bulb!

Keep cool!

Keeping Your Tent Warm

Tents are a lot harder to warm than RVs and campers.  That thin tent fabric just doesn't provide a lot of insulation.  That being said, it is surprising just how much protection a simple tent can provide against cold weather.  Temperatures once dropped below freezing during an overnight scout outing with one of my sons.  We were sharing a 3-man dome tent.  It was definitely cool inside when I got out my sleeping bag in the morning, but it was down right cold outside the tent!  It was cool enough inside that I needed to get dressed quickly and was glad I had tucked my clothes into the bottom of my sleeping bag so they were already a little warmer than they would have been lying in the open.  But it wasn't until I stepped outside that I needed a jacket!  Don't know what the temperature was in the tent but it was around 24F outside!  Just having a tent to keep the breeze off helps a lot.  It also helps retain the heat released by your body instead of letting it simply blow away.

In the first place, tents have only a very thin fabric to provide insulation against heat loss.  Even the walls of the heaviest canvas tents are only a fraction of an inch thick, compared to 4-6" walls in our residences and at least 2" thick walls in most RVs and campers.  And it isn't really very feasible to add insulation to tent walls.  However, tents with a rain fly do gain a little in the way of insulation from the air gap between the tent walls and the rain fly.  This air gap helps keep tents cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  For one thing, the rain fly protects the tent itself from direct wind.  Some people add a skirt to the rain fly to ensure it reaches all the way to the ground to reduce heat loss.  Putting a tarp over your tent might add little protection but unless there is some way to keep it from touching the tent fabric you will still lose heat through conduction between the tent fabric and the tarp.  Rain flys are usually held a few inches away from the tent wall by the external framework of the tent.  Using flexible fiberglass tent poles to hold a tarp a couple of inches above your tent fabric might be an option.  Or just set up a dining fly over your tent.

One place you can add insulation to keep your tent warmer is the floor.  Tents should always be placed on a sturdy ground cloth to protect the floor from being punctured or damaged by debris and to keep moisture out.  A good ground cloth will also block a little bit of heat loss through the floor. Unless you are back packing, you can add foam anti-fatigue mats on the floor or your tent to protect the floor from damage, make it more comfortable to sleep on , and to insulate the interior from the cold ground.  Of course you won't be carrying anti-fatigue mats anyplace you have to hike in very far, but having a good foam sleeping pad will help you sleep warmer and more comfortable.

Tent heaters are one way of warming up the inside of tents.  The most commonly used tent heaters are catalytic heaters that use propane or white gasoline to generate heat.  They must be used with adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation and need to always be kept a safe distance from all fabrics and other combustible materials.  If you have access to 120 volt shore power or have a portable generator you could use an electric heater.  While electric heaters will not consume oxygen you still need to ensure they are kept a safe distance from combustible materials and you have to keep the generator a safe distance from your tents to avoid breathing exhaust fumes.

The human body generates about as much heat as a 100 watt electric light bulb.  That means that YOU and any companions will contribute to the heat inside your tent.  I once had to open the windows in my house in Utah when outside temps were in the teens because it was getting too warm inside with 20 people in the living room -- and without any heat turned on inside the house!    To keep warm use the smallest tent that is suitable for your needs.  A big tent just means more air you need to warm to keep it comfortable.  I typically recommend using a tent that is rated for one more person than will be sleeping in it to provide space for gear and room to get dressed etc.  Using one rated for just the number of people sleeping in it might be a bit warmer, but you would sacrifice a lot of convenience and might end of having to leave some or your gear out in the weather.  Using a lot bigger one gives you more room for gear or visitors, but will be harder to keep warm while you are resting.

Propane lanterns generate quite a bit of heat.  But they can put out toxic fumes and definitely consume oxygen so you must provide adequate ventilation when using inside a tent.  I know, it seems counterintuitive to open windows when you are trying to warm up your tent, but it is critical to provide adequate ventilation.  Failing to do so could be fatal!

Sometimes you can make yourself comfortable inside your tent by simply dressing warmer:  thermal underwear, sweaters, sweatshirts, jackets, etc.  I don't recommend dressing a lot warmer at night than you are used to.  Wearing warm, flannel "bunny" jammies instead of your regular PJs might be OK, but dressing in lots of layers will most likely be uncomfortable, confining, and you could get too warm and sweat which would then cause you to get even colder!  Dressing differently than you normally do at night may interfere with sleeping.  At night extra bedding may be enough to keep you warm enough to sleep comfortably, regardless of the temperature inside the tent.  One trick I used when tent camping was to lay out an old sleeping bag opened up on the floor of the tent before rolling out the sleeping bags two or us would be using.  Then putting another old sleeping bag opened up covering both sleeping bags.  Outside temperatures were in the low 20s that night and we slept very comfortably.

Thermal mass is another way of adding heat to a tent.  A thermal mass can be anything that can be safely warmed up and brought into the tent.  I've seen people use hot water bottles, baked potatoes, and hot rocks.  Just be sure nothing is hot enough to damage your tent fabric.  Using leather gloves you may be able to carry hot rocks that are hot enough damage rather fragile tent fabrics so check them carefully or put them in or on fire resistant surfaces.

You can sometimes make it easier to keep a tent warm inside by setting it up where it is already protected from the wind.  Solid wind breaks, like large rocks, walls, or buildings provide the best protection but you may get some benefit setting up next to vehicles or even trees and bushes.  Vehicles may block a lot of the wind but usually allow quite a breeze underneath that can still blow on your tent and draw the heat away.  You might also avoid shade to take advantage of any solar heating during the day. Tent fabric doesn't capture or retain a lot of heat but getting the tent and the air and gear inside as warm as possible during the day can help make it more comfortable after dark.

Keep warm!

Keeping Your Boat Warm

Most recreational boats are not equipped with heaters or furnaces.  After all, boating is mostly a warm weather activity,  Heaters of any kind would not be useful or effective on an open boat.  However, sometimes things can get chilly in the cabin overnight or even when out on the water.

First way to keep the cabin warm is to reduce heat loss.  Keep all the hatches and portholes closed as much as possible.  On many small boats, the inside "wall"of the cabin is the inside of the hull so there is little protection against the cold temperature of the water outside.  Placing foam insulation pads against the hull can help reduce heat loss.

Cooking stoves can add a little cabin heat, while your are cooking.  However, NEVER use a cooking stove directly for space heating!  They are not designed for that purpose and they required adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation.  Catalytic heaters similar to tent heaters can sometimes be used, but although they don't emit toxic fumes like a cooking stove, they do consume oxygen so you still need adequate ventilation.  If you have 120 volt power available from shore power or from an onboard generator or battery bank you can use an electric heater.

Body heat will provide a surprising amount of added warmth in the small space of many boat cabins.  The human body puts out about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent bulb.  If the hull and cabin are adequately insulated this heat will be preserved and will accumulate, often enough to keep it quite comfortable.  The amount of heat people can produce can be surprising.  I once had to open the doors and windows of my house in Utah during a family visit when it was about 17F outside because heat from 20 or so people inside made it too warm, without any other heat on in the house!

Of course, if you happen to have a yacht or cabin cruiser that is equipped with a heater or furnace, be sure to take advantage of it!  You will still want to minimize heat loss and always be sure the heater or furnace is in good operating condition and is properly vented the outside.

Stay warm on the water!

Keeping your RV or Camper Warm

Most RVs and campers are equipped with propane furnaces that usually do a pretty good job of keeping them warm enough on cool nights.  Just set the thermostat and as long as you don't run out of propane or run your batteries down you will stay warm.  Interestingly enough, when your batteries get low the furnace fan may keep running, blowing cold air.  However, even with a good furnace, you may need extra help on really cold nights.   Often Canadian motorhomes come from the factory ready for winter use, but most made in the United States do not.  Usually you can make modifications to make them more suitable for cold weather camping if you need it but it can be expensive.  You may need extra insulation along with freeze-proofing your water systems and increasing heat through a larger or additional heating unit.

Boats have different heating and cooling problems than RVs.  Please see my post on Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature for more information on boats.  Basically, you will only find heating and cooling systems on larger yachts and not on the daysailers typically used by weekend sailors.  Fortunately, we don't often use our boats in freezing weather.

You might take advantage of all the warmth from sunlight you can get:  park so the side with the most or largest windows is facing the sun most of the day.  Solar heating won't keep your RV warm by itself but it can help keep it warmer.

One of the first things to do is to make sure you aren't throwing away heat through open windows or vents.  Make sure you roof vent(s) are closed.  It is easy to forget to close the one in the bathroom.  Avoid opening exterior doors as much as possible.  Also be sure to close curtains and drapes.  Adding reflective foam insulation to windows can help keep you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Some units may benefit from additional insulation.  For example, it was easy for me to add a Styrofoam insulation panel to the roof of a van camper.  All that was there before adding the insulation was a cardboard-like headliner.  The foam helped keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  It usually isn't practical to add insulation to the walls, ceiling, or floor or most RVs and campers, unless you are already opening them up for other repairs or modifications.  If you REALLY need extra insulation you might be able to install foam panels on the inside of the walls and put new paneling over it.  You will loose a little space inside your unit but it might be worth it.  The easiest way to do this is with Styrofoam insulation panels.  Another alternative would be to essentially build an extra wall all the way around the inside of your unit to give you room to install residential-style fiberglass insulation.  Doing it with 2x2 studs will probably double the thickness of most RV walls and insulation since most RVs have 2x2 studs in the original walls.  To get full R-13 insulation like you have at home you might need to build new wall inside using 2x4 studs.  Doing  that will use up at least 5-6"of interior space for each wall, depending on what kind of wall board you use.  One issue you will have to deal with in either case is the moldings around doors and windows, which may take some creative construction to achieve acceptable results.   And don't forget the ceiling!  Since heat rises, you want to make sure you aren't losing heat unnecessarily through the roof!  Adding insulation to the floor will likely very intrusive and expensive.  Sometimes you can reduce heat loss through floors by putting a skirt to block wind from blowing underneath the vehicle while it is parked.  For long term usage, like using your motorhome or trailer as a guest house at home, you can use plywood or other rigid panels cut to fit between the bottom of the wall and the ground.  If you want skirting during your outings, flexible panels made of vinyl or canvas will do the job.  You usually need to install snaps along the bottom edge of your unit to secure flexible panels.  Heavy duty Velcro might be an option if you don't want to drill holes in the walls of your RV.

Take advantage of every available resource to reduce heat loss.  Close curtains and drapes.  Close vents.  If there is a breeze coming under a door, roll up a towel and lay it against the crack where the breeze is coming in.  You might be losing heat under doors even if you don't feel any breeze coming in.  If you can see daylight under the door, it probably needs to be blocked to reduce heat loss.  Since heat rises, be sure to check for gaps at the top of exterior doors too.  You may be able to add weather stripping to block gaps.

In most cases adding an auxiliary heater of some kind is the easiest and least expensive way of warming up a cold RV or camper.  If you have 120 volt electrical power from a generator or shore line an electrical heater is really easy to install and use and is generally a little safer than propane heaters that consume oxygen.  Even indoor rated catalytic propane heaters that do not produce significant amounts of toxic fumes will consume oxygen to you always have to provide adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation!  You will want to take precautions with all heaters to ensure they are not too near to any combustible surface, such as curtains, drapes, upholstery, and bedding.  Also be careful using them to dry wet shoes and clothing, making sure items aren't too close.  Electric fireplaces are an attractive way to add heating capacity along with a nice cabin-like ambiance.  The ones I've used fit nicely under the dinette table.

Sometimes you might simply add an extra sweater or sweatshirt or even a jacket or dress in thermal underwear to keep YOU warmer without having to heat the entire living space of your RV or camper.  At night an extra blanket or quilt or a warmer sleeping bag might all that is needed.  Some folks like to wear warmer "bunny" pajamas and socks but many people feel claustrophobic with too much clothing in bed.  You will usually sleep best and most comfortably when dressed the way you usually sleep at home.  You can add warm rocks or something like warmed potatoes or a hot water bottle to your bedding to help ward off cold feet, just make sure they aren't hot enough to scorch the bedding or hurt your feet.

If you do a lot of cold weather camping and your existing furnace isn't sufficient to keep you comfortable you may be able to add a second furnace or upgrade the existing one.  Upgrading the existing one is usually easier and less expensive as it can take advantage of the original electrical and gas connections, fit in the old cabinet, and use the existing ducting.  Many times newer, more efficient furnaces with greater heating capacity will fit in the space of older units but sometimes you may have to modify cabinets around them to make more room.  Adding a second furnace usually requires additional wiring and gas plumbing plus venting to the outside as well as finding someplace to mount it.  Some furnaces rely on convection to circulate the heat but others may require the installation of ducting so keep that in mind when choosing and installing your new furnace.  Convection furnaces are often used in small units like slide-in campers; ducted furnaces are common in larger trailerl and motorhomes.

You might be able to improve the energy efficiency of your rig to make it easier to heat and to keep it warm.  Try to eliminate any drafts around plumbing, wiring and doors.  Minimize opening of doors.  Keep curtain, shades, and drapes closed and add reflective foam panels to cover your windows.  If you ever have access to the inside of walls, floors, and ceilings (such as during repairs or renovations) consider increasing the insulation.  The gains from adding insulation probably don't warrant opening things up just to install it so take advantage of any time you do have things apart.

Monitor your propane usage closely.  During cold weather you will use more gas for heating, cooking, and hot water.  The last thing you want to do in cold weather is run out of heating fuel!  For extended stays bring along an extra portable tank or two of propane and invest in an Extend-A-Stay system to attach them to the propane system on your RV.  These work well for an auxillary gas supply for RV appliances but since RV generators run on liquid propane they won't work when the liquid in the RV tank drops below the pickup point.  You might be able to hedge your bet for extended stays by connecting the auxillary tank long before the level in the permanent tank drops below the generator pickup. 

If you have shore power or a big battery bank and an inverter you might use an electric blanket to keep you warm at night.  There are even 12 volt electric blankets if you have enough battery reserve for it.  If you rely on a generator or solar power for your electricity you still might use an electric blanket to pre-warm you bed so it is more comfortable when you get in it and it will stay warmer longer.  You can then conserve energy by turning it off.  You might need to turn it back on a time or two during colder nights.  That might be a problem if you don't have enough battery reserve and rely on your generator and are camping where running it at night might disturb other nearby campers.

One rather extreme solution, is to purchase a different unit, one that was built for cold weather use.  Many Canadian models come from the factory already suitable for cold weather operation, including freeze protection for the plumbing and sufficient furnace capacity.  Some units manufactured in the United States can be purchased with winterization packages but most standard units will not be suitable for winter camping without additional modifications.  To convert an existing RV for cold weather operation you will need to freeze protect the fresh water and waste water systems as well as improving insulation and upgrading the heating system.

Heat it up!