RV Converters and Inverters

What's the difference between converters and inverters and why should you care?  You may hear fellow RVers using these terms and often they may be using them interchangeably and incorrectly.  Why should you care?  Most RVs are equipped with a converter and many also have an inverter.  You need to know what you have and how to use each one properly to get the most out of your equipment and avoid depleting your batteries.  Both have to do with managing the coach electrical system.  Each device provides a valuable and distinct function for your RV.  So, what is the difference and why does it matter?   Converters and inverters actually perform opposite functions.

A converter converts 120-volt AC power to 12-volt DC power.  This powers the 12-volt lights and appliances in an RV when it is connected to shore power or when the generator is running instead of running down the batteries.   The converter usually includes or is located near the fuse or breaker panel.  Converters usually include a battery-charging circuit to recharge coach batteries whenever 120-volt power is available.  However, these are usually intended only for light charging to maintain batteries when the coach is in storage and they're not very good at re-charging depleted batteries.  If your converter doesn't include a good multi-stage charger, you may want to add an automatic, automotive battery charger.  This solution is usually easier, less expensive, and more effective than upgrading the internal charger in a converter.   And I confirmed that with an engineer at one of the converter manufacturers.  I had called because the charging circuit on my converter gone bad and was putting out about 18 volts and boiling my batteries.  Rather than repair or upgrade the converter, the engineer suggested I disable the charging circuit (and instructed me how to do it) and install an automatic car battery charger.  It worked very well for a long time -- until I upgraded the whole system to an Intellipower converter with Charge Wizard from Progressive Dynamics.  Still, the fastest way to recharge your batteries will likely be running your vehicle engine.  The vehicle alternator has a higher, regulated output and will usually re-charge batteries faster and safer than any converter or plug-in charger.  Gas consumption with the engine at idle will probably be about the same as running the on board generator, so there is no obvious fuel savings to using the generator, even though it has a smaller engine.  Running the vehicle at or slightly above idle should be sufficient to charge your batteries.  Another advantage to running the vehicle engine is that it will recharge the starting battery as well as the house batteries.  Replacing an existing converter may be as simple as unplugging and disconnecting the old one and connecting and plugging in the new one.  However, if the old converter is an integral part of the power panel that includes the 120 volt breakers, the installation will be more difficult and complicated.  You will need to remove all the components of the old converter without messing up the 120 volt power panel, then connect the input to a 120 volt source and the output of new converter to the supply side of the 12-volt fuse panel.

An inverter does just the opposite from a converter: it changes 12-volt DC power from your batteries into 120-volt AC power to run AC appliances.  Inverters come in a variety of sizes and with a wide range of effectiveness.  Cheap inverters create a "modified sine wave" AC power.   These may be OK for some AC appliances, but any sensitive electronics will require a "true sine wave" output to function properly.  Inverters may be small and inexpensive and plug into a 12-volt cigarette lighter style receptacle.  These may be adequate to power small appliances, even a laptop computer, and charge cell phones (if the output is "clean" enough).  I have found my cell phones charge faster using a 120 volt charger plugged into an inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter than they do using a 12-volt car charger directly .   Larger units are hard wired into the battery bank and may power several outlets or circuits in the RV.   Anytime you're using an inverter, remember the 120-volt wattage draw will be 10 times the same wattage draw for 12-volt appliances of similar amperage.  What does that mean to you?  It means your batteries will run down at least 10 times as fast running a 120-volt 10-amp appliance as they will running a 12-volt 10-amp appliance.  Appliances are usually rated in watts.  For those of you who may not remember your high school physics, watts = amps * volts.   A 10-amp, 12-volt appliance uses 120 watts.   A 10-amp, 120-volt appliances uses 1200 watts. Batteries are often rated in amp-hours.  That determines the number of hours they can deliver 1 amp at 12-volts.  That means a 12-volt deep cycle RV battery bank with a rating of 850 amp-hours, theoretically, could run a 1-amp load for 850 hours or a 10-amp load for 85 hours or an 850 amp load for 1 hour.  That same battery powering 120-volt appliances through an inverter would run a 10-amp 120-volt load for only 8.5 hours or less.   Inverters are quiet so they can be used to power TVs and other entertainment systems past allowable generator hours -- IF you have a large enough battery bank.  Inverters are not typically used to run the electric side of a refrigerator (although some monster luxury motorhomes with really huge battery banks may have that capability).  They are best used for short periods of time for discreet functions, like running the microwave for a few minutes or making coffee. If you have sufficient battery capacity, they can be used effectively to run TVs and entertainment systems during "quiet hours".   They can be used to power electric lights but since incandescent lights are about 10% efficient as lights and 90% efficient as heaters, it is not an efficient use of battery power.   Just using the regular 12-volt lights would be more efficient since there is some loss of power in changing 12-volt DC to 120-volt AC in the inverter.  Or, better yet, use gas or battery powered portable lanterns and save your batteries altogether.  If you install an inverter be sure to use the proper gauge wiring for both connections to the battery bank.  The higher the converter output, the bigger wire you will need.  A handy trick for connecting a converter is to buy a set of heavy duty automotive battery jumper cables and cut the ends off.  Add terminals to the battery ends.  Large inverters usually have screw connectors that clamp down on the bare conductor itself.  If you connect the inverter output to outlets in your RV, be sure the wiring is of the proper size.

Some inverter units include a powerful multi-stage battery charger.  Battery charging is NOT a direct function of an inverter, but is rather an additional function that is sometimes included in a unit to be able to recharge the batteries that are needed to power the inverter whenever there is shore or generator power available.   Small, plug-in units won't have a battery charging function. Large, permanently installed units might.

Installation.   Both converters and inverters generate heat and need to be installed in an area with adequate ventilation.  They may also contain relays that can spark so make sure they aren't in the same compartment with flammable liquids or gasses.  Off-gassing from charging lead-acid batteries creates hydrogen gas,  which is highly flammable.  That is what caused the famous Hindenburg disaster.  They also draw a lot of current so make sure you connect them with adequate wiring.  My son, who is an electrician, suggested using a set of #6 gauge battery jumper cables to connect our 2500 watt inverter.  The jumper cables are the right gauge and the bonded wiring makes running the wires and identifying the proper polarity for the connections much easier.   Be aware that there are cheap jumper cables that are much smaller than #6 wires, so make sure you get the right ones.

Inverter use.  Always make sure inverter is disconnected when using your generator or shore power.  OEM installations will have a switch that only connect the inverter or the power from the 120-volt panel.  If the inverter is connected along with another power source it can burn out the inverter.

Maintenance.  Converters and inverters require little maintenance.   There are usually no user-servicable internal parts.  They both require adequate ventilation to avoid over-heating so don't use their cabinets for storage and keep all vents clear and occasionally remove any accumulated dust and lint from the cooling fins and vents.  It is a good idea to periodically check all the electrical connections.   Road vibration may cause connections to loosen.   Loose connections may cause arcing which will result in poor or intermittent performance and could cause a fire.  With proper care and usage both converters and inverters should last many years in normal service.  Output circuits from a convertor are usually distributed through a fuse panel.   If any circuit stops working, be sure to check to see that the fuse is securely in place and has not been blown.

Converter, inverter is definitely NOT like Po-tay-to, po-tah-to, or even Po-tay-to, To-may-to; the difference is more like the difference between dogs and cats.

Camping and RVing -- Keep It Interesting

Will you ever get tired of camping, RVing, or OHVing?  Probably not!   Partly just because every outing is different and it is so darn much fun but another contributing factor is the variety of activities and destinations that are available to you.  You might get tired of your outings if you always go to the same camp ground, eat the same meals, participate in the same activities, and ride or hike the same trails.  For more than 30 years we camped and rode our dirt bikes in the Mojave desert without getting bored. We chose a different base camp for each holiday weekend, which automatically varied the scenery and the trails we would be riding.  Although there were a handful of families that made up the core of our "Desert Rat" group, the rest of the group varied at each outing, further adding variety to the event.   Meals were planned uniquely for each outing so dining was never dull.   We got to know the trails around each base camp pretty well, but never tired of riding them.  Sometimes riding or  hiking a familiar trails is just what you need.  And it was always fun to share favorite trails with new comers to the group.  If nothing else it can be entertaining watching them learn to negotiate some of the trickier spots you have mastered over time.

Vary your routine.  There is no good reason to keep doing the same thing over and over until you tire of it.  There are always alternatives.  Try out a different camp ground or base camp.  Check out some new camp cuisine.  Ride or hike some different trails.  Sometimes just riding or hiking the same trails in the opposite direction you usually go makes them more interesting (of course, don't do that on trails designated as one-way trails!).   Leave time in your travels to take some side trips.  It is very likely you pass a number of interesting historical or geological sites on your way to your favorite camp ground or riding area.  The same is true for OHV rides: try out some side trails and alternate routes now and then.  Consider hiking some of the trails you normally ride on your OHV.   Albert Einstein said that insanity is repeating the same actions and expecting different results.  The same might be said of camping -- doing the same thing over and over and expecting things to be different isn't going to work.  But there are plenty of ways of modifying your routine to keep things interesting and fun -- and even educational.

Try out some new toys.   There seems to be a never-ending list of new camping and RV gadgets coming on the market.  A new camp stove can make meals an adventure.  Try your hand at Dutch oven cooking or give a shot at some pioneer meals like ash cakes.  New games are often a great hit with your fellow campers as well as your family.  Horseshoes is popular with many campers, but I suspect few have tired the "bolo" style game where you throw balls tied together at a goal made of PVC pipe.  The winner is the one who gets the most tosses to wrap around the goal.  The game is available at sporting goods stores or you can make your own using golf balls and string and building the goals from common PVC pipe and fittings.   Most any campground lends itself to learning about local flora and fauna.  Desert outings are particularly good for astronomy lessons. An unobstructed view of clear skies and few lights makes star-gazing particularly amazing, giving you a view you will never see from an urban or even suburban environment.

Vary your activities. If your main activity is riding OHVs, plan an afternoon or evening of skeet shooting now and then -- if shooting is allowed where you are camping.  Check out local ranger-led hikes and lectures.  A general store in the area where we rode dirt bikes in Sequoia would borrow classic films from the local library and show them for free in a make-shift amphitheater outside the store every Friday night.  Campers would come from miles around.  I'm sure they sold lots of popcorn, candy, and soda to reward them for their effort, but they also provided free enjoyable entertainment.  Have your own talent show around the camp fire.   An old fashioned hootenanny or singalong is campfire tradition enjoyed by almost everyone.  Organize service projects to maintain and improve the areas you frequent.  Or even try an entirely different activity, like fishing or boating or hiking.  Look for local museums or historic sites to explore.  I found a monument for an X-15 crash site within an easy ride of one of our favorite Mojave Desert OHV base camps.   Sharing it with other riders who didn't know about it was always fun.   Some of them had ridden past the marker but never knew what it was.  I also did some research on old railroad water tower that was a popular landmark in one of our riding areas and discovered it was all that was left of  small town that once supported the famous 20 Mule Team Borax wagon trains and later the railroad that took over the hauling.  Campfires are a good opportunity for singing songs and telling stories.  It is always good to know a few of the old favorites, but adding some new material on each trip helps keep things interesting.  Encourage everyone to participate.  Our Desert Rat group had a few guitarists to start with but an another enterprising member of the group learned to play the harmonica which added a lot to many folk songs.  Almost anyone can play a tambourine.

Learn more about your destinations.  You can almost always find interesting information about the ecology, geology, or history of the area around your camp ground.  What kind of trees are those? How old are those rocks?  What are they made of and how did they get here?  By the way, most rocks fall into one of three categories:  sedimentary, ignious, or metamorphic.  Sedimentary are created in the bottom of lakes as streams as sediment accumulates and becomes compacted.  Ignious are generally the result of cooled magma pushed up from inside the earth.  Metamorphic rocks are created from any of the three types of rock when they are exposed to heat and pressure which causes chemical changes in the composition.  Everyplace has geology and anyplace there has been human habitation has the potential of yielding interesting history.   Sometimes the trash previous inhabitants or users have left behind yields a bit of insight into their involvement with the area.

If you get bored camping, RVing, or OHVing, it is because you choose to let it happen or even make it happen.

RVs As Spare Rooms

There are at least two RV and camping related applications for "spare rooms".   First of all, your RV or tent might serve as a spare room when you have visitors.  Secondly,  you might  need a "spare room" for your tent or RV.


Your  RV can serve as a convenient"spare room" when you have visitors.  For this to work, you must keep your RV clean and well organized.  Don't use it as a storage area. Keep the beds fresh, or make them up fresh just before your guests arrive.   If your RV has been locked up and stored for weeks or months, you'll need to air it out and freshen the bedding.  Make sure any needed appliances, such as furnaces or air conditioners are in good working order.  And, unless you RV has been winterized, make sure the fresh water tank is full or it is connected to city water.  If your RV has been winterized, make sure you tell your guests not to use any of the plumbing.   In moderate weather, your RV can serve as a complete personal suite for your guests.   In cold (freezing) weather, it should only be used as bedroom and sitting room.  You don't want to put water into the holding tanks that may freeze and damage the valves or tanks.  Of course, if you happen to have an RV with heated holding tanks and plumbing it could be fully utilized.

Tents aren't quite as convenient or as comfortable for visiting guests, but they may sometimes serve as a viable option, so don't rule them out.   They will be more appealing in moderate weather, but we have even had some of our adult kids pitch their tent at our place in Utah at Christmas when six kids plus spouses and grandkids overwhelmed our small retirement home.  Unless your guests are bringing their own, you'll want to make sure your tent is accessible, clean, complete, and in good repair.  Same with sleeping bags, cots, sleeping pads, etc.  You may want to set things up in advance so you can make sure everything is "ship shape" and ready to go before your guests arrive.  One winter they set up a tent in our large barn so it was out of the wind and weather.

Spare rooms on your spare room.  Weather permitting, you can expand your RV using an "add-a-room" -- privacy panels under your awning to create extra living space.  I had a tent that attached to my Smuggler toy hauler, giving us a lot of extra room for dressing and for gathering 8 people out of the weather. These are quite comfortable in moderate climates, but you won't want to rely on them in cold or snowy weather.  The thin fabric walls don't provide much insulation and the awning won't support much of a snow load.  If for any strange reason you need to have your awning open when it snows, keep the snow brushed off to avoid damage to the awning fabric and hardware. 

Screen rooms are another awning variation that can be useful.   Instead of solid "privacy panels", they have screen panels all around that can keep out insects and sometimes reduce sunlight a little bit to keep it cooler under the awning without shutting out the view.

Visitors welcome!

Fire Extinguishers

According to rules established by the National Fire Protection Agency, all recreational vehicles are required to have a at least a 5 lb BC fire extinguisher on board.  Unfortunately, this requirement is often satisfied by a little unit that is totally inadequate for all but the smallest fires. You will often see one about the size of a can of spray paint hanging on a wall in a motorhome or travel trailer.  I don't even like these for cooking fires since the velocity of the spray can splash and spread burning grease and they aren't big enough to really do much.   Much better to cover the burning pan with a lid or wet towel or smother the flames with baking soda.  I upgraded my motorhome with an additional fire extinguisher, a much larger, 20 lb, residential/commercial style ABC model.   See more about these funky alphabet ratings below.  The only real problem with such an upgrade is finding a place to put it.  The larger size and weight may make that difficult.  It needs to be secure and yet easily accessible.  Perhaps  having a small fire extinguisher in its original position inside the RV and a larger one in a convenient outside compartment (where it could also be accessed for engine fires) would be a good solution.

Fire extinguishers are not required by law for tent camping but it is still a good idea to have one handy.  You may need one if your tent or vehicle catches fire.   Most cooking fires can be controlled by covering the pot with a lid or wet towel or smothering the fire with baking soda or salt.   If you don't have a fire extinguisher, do carry an extra box or two of baking soda and keep it handy whenever you're cooking.  NEVER use flour to try to put out a fire.  Flour dust is highly explosive. I've heard that about a cup of flour can deliver about the same kick as a stick of dynamite!   Sugar is also highly flammable.   After all, sugar is the fuel our bodies burn!  It is basically carbon and hydrogen, same fundamental elements as gasoline!

Campfires are usually too large for a fire extinguisher, especially if the reason you're putting them out is they're out of control.  Keep a bucket of water or sand or dirt and a shovel handy to put out campfires. Y ou probably won't want to waste fresh water to put out a routine campfire at the end of the night so drain a little out of your gray water tank and use that.   Take care NOT to release anything from the black water tank!   I guaranty you won't like the results.  The smell of burning sewage will not contribute anything good to your outing or your reputation around camp and your partner may make you sleep outside after you've been exposed to the smoke.

Proper use of an appropriate fire extinguisher can prevent a small fire in your RV, tent, or tow vehicle from getting out of control and avoid more serious and expensive consequences.  Think a fire extinguisher is too expensive?  Consider how expensive it will be not to have one when you need it! Speaking of expense, don't waste your money on cheap fire extinguishers.  Many are made with plastic instead of metal parts inside that are easily broken and probably won't stand up to the rigors of RV travel and would thus be useless when you need them!

Fire extinguishers are rated according to the types of fires they are designed to put out.   The rating is important because an improper extinguisher will not be effective on fires it isn't rated for and, in some cases, can actually make things worse and create a greater hazard.  For example, using water on an electrical fire will damage the electrical equipment and could get you electrocuted!   Using water on flammable liquids may just spread the flames.

Fire and fire extinguishers are rated according to the types of materials involved.  Make sure you know how to recognize the type of fire and use only the right extinguisher for the fire.  Using the wrong one is, at best ineffective, and at worse, can be dangerous!

    Class A: ordinary combustible materials (paper, wood and most plastics)
    Class B: flammable or combustible liquids, such as gasoline, fuel oil, kerosene, diesel, grease,                    oil, and other solvents like paint thinners
    Class C: electrical fires, involving appliances, breaker boxes, wiring
    Class D: combustible metals like magnesium, titanium, and sodium
    Class K: cooking oils (deep fat fryers), mostly found in restaurant kitchens

A typical residential or commercial fire extinguisher will have an A-B-C rating, meaning it is good for Class A, B, and C fires.  This should be adequate for most RV applications.  D rated extinguishers are usually only found in chemical labs or places they routinely use exotic metals.   A "K" rated extinguisher might be useful if you have a cooking fire, but it is probably overkill.  "K" extinguishers are usually only found in commercial kitchens where they have deep fryer equipment and are usually part of an automatic fire suppression system.  You can usually snuff cooking fires by covering the pan with a lid or a wet towel or smothering them with baking soda.  By the way, soda is the main component of many "dry chemical" fire extinguishers so it is not a second rate substitute but rather a legitimate, effective, readily available, and inexpensive alternative.   The main advantage to a dry chemical fire extinguisher is that it is more effective and safer to use than trying to sprinkle soda onto a fire from a box.

Fire extinguisher sizes.   Fire extinguishers are usually "sized" by weight, indicating the weight of the extinguishing agent.  The larger or heavier the rating, the longer the extinguisher will be able to deliver fire suppressant onto a fire.  A 10 lb extinguisher will be fully discharged in 17-20 seconds. A 5 lb model will be used up in 8-10 seconds.  You can see the tiny little units that probably came with your RV won't last very long -- only a few seconds.   Don't give a fire time to get out of control. Tackle it as soon as possible.  Your fire extinguisher should be adequate to put out a smoldering cigarette on your sofa, but if the whole sofa is engaged, just get you and your family the heck out while you can.  Even a 10lb extinguisher isn't enough to handle that job.  You might be able to save the rest of your RV if you can come back with a water hose or a large ABC extinguisher.  A useful guideline for whether to fight a fire or escape is to compare it to a fire in a typical waste basket.   Up to that size, a hand-held fire extinguisher may be effective.  Any thing larger requires real fire fighting equipment and you'd better get you and your loved ones to safety instead of trying (most likely in vain) to put the fire out.

Using a fire extinguisher.  Always aim the fire extinguisher at the base of the fire.  The acronym, PASS describes the proper procedures for using a fire extinguisher:

    P: Pull -- pull the locking pin from the handle
    A: Aim -- aim the nozzle at the base of the fire
    S: Squeeze -- squeeze the handle to begin discharge
    S: Sweep -- sweep the spray from side to side

Once you have started to use an ABC fire extinguisher, you might as well empty it.  Particles left in the valve will keep it from closing completely when you release the handle and the pressure will leak away, making it useless.  After ANY discharge, the unit must be replaced or rebuilt to remain useful.  The only style I know that can be stopped and started is an old fashioned water extinguisher.

Fire extinguisher maintenance.  There is little user maintenance required for most fire extinguishers.  Mostly you need to monitor the inspection date and check the gauge(if it has one).  Dry chemical extinguishers should be shaken once a month to avoid the chemical "caking up" inside.  Fire extinguishers have a limited useful lifetime and need to be replaced or rebuilt (by specially trained and licensed technicians).  About the only type you can maintain yourself is water filled Class A extinguisher.  These units can be refilled with water and re-pressurized by the user using compressed air.   I keep one in my motorcycle trailer as a portable bike pressure washer, but it could also be used on any Class A fire as well.  Water extinguishers are definitely NOT recommended nor approved for Class B or Class C fires.

Fire requires three components, known as the fire triangle:  fuel, heat, and oxygen.   Take away any one of the three and the fire goes out.  Covering a burning pan removes oxygen.  Spraying a fire in ordinary combustibles (wood, paper, plastic) removes heat and, as the water soaks the potential fuel, reduces availability of fuel.  Dry chemical fire extinguishers mostly prevent the fire from getting oxygen.  Water is the most common substance used to put out fires, even by fire departments.  But NEVER use water on a fire involving live electrical devices.  Once the electricity has been turned off the fire switches from a Class C fire to what is usually an ordinary Class A fire.  A fire in a plugged in electrical appliance is a Class C fire; unplug the appliance and it usually becomes a Class A fire. Using water on a Class B fire is not recommended.   The spray often splashes and spreads the burning fuel, doing more harm than good.  I have seen professional firefighters and even trained C.E.R.T. folks put out a Class B fire using water, but it requires special techniques.  I have tried it myself and it isn't easy.   If you have no other choice but water for a flammable liquids fire, do not use a strong stream.  Use a broad spray.  Aim it at the base of the flames and use it kind of like a broom to sweep the flames off the fuel.  It may be very difficult if the fire is wide or if there is any wind.  The fire can easily ignite fumes rising or blown from the previously extinguished areas and jump back again.

Of course, fire prevention is always better than  fire suppression.  You'll always be better off avoiding a fire than fighting one so take proper precautions with your camp and cooking fires.  Watch out for potentially dangerous situations involving combustible materials. 

See also Fire Extinguisher Education for RVers for additional information.

Put it out!

Foggy Windows and Googles

If you do any camping or OHVing in cool, damp weather you're going to experience problems with windows and goggles fogging up.  When it blocks your vista of the mountains or lake it is inconvenient or irritating.  When it interferes with driver's or operator's vision it is a serious safety hazard!   Make sure the defrosters on your RV or tow vehicle are in good working condition and are not blocked by errant objects left on the dash board.  Large windshields like those on Class A motorhomes may need additional assistance.  One of the best options are 12-volt oscillating fans like those used by commercial truck drivers.   Still it is a good idea to keep a small squeegee or cloth handy to clear excess moisture from side windows and maintain a clear view.  Anti-fog preparations will help deter windows and goggles from fogging over.   The one I like best for windshields is made by 20-10, who also makes my favorite windshield wiper fluid.  For goggles, try Cat Crap -- no, not the stuff from the litter box, a commercial anti-fog preparation popular with off-roaders.   The color, texture, and consistency isn't very attractive (actually it is kind of green and slimy and looks more like snot than crap) but it works and has been the number one selling goggle cleaning and anti-fog preparation for more than a decade.  Rain-X also makes an anti-fog spray that is effective and easy to use.

Another handy tool for dealing with foggy windows is a squeegee.  We got ours at Dollar Tree so they don't have to be big or expensive.  A squeegee will make quick work of fogged windows and windshields.  They are easy to use, resusable, and don't take up a lot of room.  For best results wipe the edge often to remove and prevent any buildup that might interfere with its functionality.

Goggles should be cleaned after every ride.  Don't wipe them with a dry cloth.   It will grind fine dust into the soft plastic surface and scratch it, blurring your vision.  Rinse them with water or wash them with soap and water, then wipe them dry with a clean, soft cloth, tissue, or microfiber towel.  If they do get scratched, you'll need to clean and polish the lens to restore clarity.   I've had good success using a 3-stage cleaning system from Novus for maintaining googles.  Each stage uses finer grit.  The first stage removes heavy scratches, the second stage further refines defects, and the final stage polishes the lenses to a clear shine.  Applying anti-fog on clean lenses is more effective and safer than wiping it on dirty or damaged surfaces.

Maintain that vista!  While keeping the windows clear in camp is not as necessary for safety as it is on the road, it is still something you'll want to do.  You'll want to enjoy the beauty of the natural features around you and, if you have children or pets you may need to keep an eye on them.  Here again, a small squeegee is a quick way to clear fogged windows.  Lacking that, dry them with paper towels. In really cold weather I don't worry too much about the view.  I cover all my windows with foam insulation inserts to keep out the cold.  Also works well to keep it cooler inside in hot weather. Controlling the condensation as it occurs will reduce the amount of frost that builds up overnight in cold weather.  Frost on windows can be quite pretty, but it doesn't do much to maintain a warm interior and when it melts it can be damaging to the nearby surfaces and its a LOT harder to scrape off than mere fogging.

Speaking of frost, it can present other problems.  Your RV steps may become dangerously slippery when they're covered with frost.  You also aren't going to want to sit on a frosty OHV seat or camp chair unless you like the feeling of having a cold, wet butt.  A frozen vinyl seat may also be more susceptible to cracking so wipe off the frost early in the morning and let the sun warm the seat a while before you take a ride.  Frost can accumulate on tools left outside.  A frosted axe or shovel handle could present a serious safety hazard.   Frost on metal tools, like wrenches, pliers, sockets, and screwdrivers can lead to rust and corrosion as well as making them slippery and making your hands cold if you try to use them.   Try to keep tools in out of the overnight dew and frost and wipe off any condensation or frost before using them or putting them away.  Frosty metal can sometimes stick to your skin, especially if your skin is wet.  You probably remember some kid (perhaps even you) getting his tongue stuck licking snow off metal fixtures like a swing set or flag pole.  If  you do get frozen to metal, flush the area with warm water to get loose without ripping off a layer of skin.

Even after using an anti-fog product you may have trouble keeping your goggles clear on cold wet rides.  Tuck a soft cloth or some tissues in a convenient pocket or pouch on your coat or fanny pack and stop as necessary to dry the inside of your goggles.   Rain and snow can accumulate on the outside of your goggles.  I've seen riding gloves with a built-in wiper on the thumb to squeegee precipitation off goggles.  You might get away with wiping them with a gloved finger, but it usually leaves streaks that can interfere with your vision.   Exercise caution when wiping away mud since the grit in it may damage your goggles using either your finger or a glove-squeegee.  If rain or snow is making it hard to see, take time to stop and clear it off from time to time.   Ultimately you will get back to camp faster than by limping along blind and it could save you a nasty crash.  If the crust on your goggles contains dirt or grit, take care removing it so you don't scratch the plastic.   If you are having problems with your goggles fogging up and don't have any anti-fog solution with you, try cleaning the inside of the lens with saliva.  This is a trick borrowed from SCUBA divers and snorklers.  Yeah, it sound kinds of yucky, but just spit on the inside of the lens and wipe it all over and then dry the lens.  This will usually reduce fogging, at least a little.

On cold days I like to wear a nylon face mask when riding my dirt bike to keep my face and nose from freezing.  The only down side I've found is that if I cover my nose to keep it warm my breath fogs my goggles.  And if I uncover my nose so I can see better, my nose freezes!  It turns into a kind of balancing act, keeping my nose warm versus keeping my goggles fog free.  If the eye opening is large enough you may be able to keep the googles in contact with your face to avoid breath coming up from inside the mask into your goggles.  That isn't going to work if the mask has two separate eye holes instead of one large one.

Keep it clear!

Camping & Family Togetherness

Nothing brings a family together quite like camping.  Whether you're jammed into a small dome tent or elegantly sequestered in a luxury RV, you'll have no choice but to be physically closer than you are in even the smallest home or apartment.  Often that alone forces a level of personal interaction missing from our normal everyday lives.  But physical proximity is not the only kind of closeness camping generates.  Camping typically requires a level of cooperation and interaction that is sadly lacking in our modern, compartmentalized, electronic-oriented lives.  Even the most affluent families are not likely to bring along the maid, butler, and/or chauffer on camping trips (although that might be an interesting experiment) and everyone is going to have to pitch in to make things work. Shared tasks and shared adventures create a kind of bonding that each doing his own independent thing lacks.

Camping may force a level of togetherness that families are not used to -- and some family members may have difficulty adjusting.   Recognize this may happen and mentally prepare yourself for it.   It may take some patience and some work before it is comfortable, but it can be done and is more than worth it.   In days gone by people lived in much smaller homes (many way smaller than today's RVs), with 2 or more generations sharing a single one room cabin.   They managed, and usually formed very strong family bonds, though how they found enough privacy to continue having children after a few arrived is a question that deserves pondering.

Family-oriented activities are often the heart of camping and related outings.   Our family choice has always been dirt-biking.  While many of our rides included other members of our informal off-road group, we always set aside at least one as a family ride on each outing.  Fishing, hunting, hiking, picnicking, bird-watching, and water sports also lend themselves well to a family focus.   Exploring points of historical and natural interest together allow sharing of experiences that promote family bonding. With just a little practice you can identify many "teaching moments" where you can expand your kid's knowledge of science, nature, history, politics, religion, geography, and family history.  Knowing they have ancestors who were directly involved in historic events helps bring those events to life.   I recall that in grade school, every Thanksgiving teachers asked if any of us had ancestors on the Mayflower.  I didn't learn until much later (when I was already a Grandpa) that the first of my family arrived in America as step-sons of Governor Bradford of the Plymouth Colony and also included John Alden and Priscilla Mullen in the family tree when one of the boys married a daughter of John and Priscilla.   No doubt I would have paid a lot more attention to the stories of the Pilgrims and Longfellow's "The Courtship of Miles Standish" if I'd known they were talking about my own ancestors.  Knowing something of YOUR family history might spur extra interest in historic events and sites.   BTW, Longfellow  (author of "The Courtship of Miles Standish") was also a descendant of John and Priscilla.

I'm not saying camping will cure a dysfunctional family, but, like chicken soup, it can't hurt, and may help create bonds that help prevent the fractures that lead to the relational gaps in the first place. If nothing else it gives everyone in the family a common base of shared experiences and that in itself helps tie folks together.  And lacking any other common interests, camping just might turn out to be the one thing that brings everyone together.   In Robin Willam's movie "RV", the family starts out really fractured and skeptical(even down right angry) about his renting an RV for their summer vacation, but by the end of the movie, shared experiences have brought them closer together than ever.  I doubt if any of us would do as well without the benefit of Hollywood script writers but in today's hectic world we need all the help we can get!

Family vacations create memories your kids will treasure their whole lives.  I recall the story a young man told of how his large family had tried for years to save money to add a second bathroom to their tiny little house. But each year they tapped into the "bathroom savings" to finance a family vacation.   The bathroom never did get built but after he left home he recalled those family vacations with great fondness.   It is doubtful anyone would have remembered the new bathroom with the same passion.

For all its benefits, togetherness does have its limitations, especially if you're not used to it. Couples may want some privacy that is difficult to achieve in a tent or RV shared with other family members.  You may need to plan or at least allow some time for individual activities or "quiet time". Being jammed together for several days can cause people to start to get on each other's nerves. Recognize this up front and arrange some break time at the first sign of tension building.   Get out and take a walk or go for a swim.   Go throw a ball against rock or a wall.  Skip rocks across the lake.  Allow your companions a little personal space and make some for yourself.  In his book, The Prophet, Kalil Gibran, wisely advises "Let there be spaces in your togetherness.  For the oak tree and the cypress grow not in each other's shadow".  But he also said "Even as the strings of a lute are alone though they quiver with the same music.", so don't go overboard on private time.   You may have special need of spaces in your togetherness when squeezed into a camping environment, but making the most of being together is what is going to form familial bonds and forge fond memories.

Togetherness: Try it. You'll like it!

Camp Trash

The "camp trash" I'm talking about is not be be confused with "trailer trash".   Unlike "trailer trash", it isn't people, it is the garbage people sometimes (too many times!)  leave behind when camping.  That being said, people who do leave their trash behind quickly gain a reputation as "trailer trash".  Why would anything as mundane as camp trash deserve its own post?   For one thing, way too many people fail to clean up after themselves when camping.  Too many have the "I'm on vacation" attitude and think someone else should clean up after them.  Or they're just careless and let things blow away.  The old back packers adage "Pack it in; pack it out" definitely applies to all kinds of camping.   I've seen beautiful national forest campgrounds that, after a holiday weekend, looked like the downwind area next to a landfill.  Such behavior is inexcusable.   I was amused and inspired by an innovative park ranger who, after collecting two large bags of identifiable trash from a single camp site at the end of a holiday weekend, sent a letter to the city folks who had left it behind, notifying them they had left some personal belongings behind and he was shipping them to them C.O.D. and to watch for the package.  Then he boxed up their trash and sent it to them -- at their expense! Imagine their surprise when, after paying the C.O.D charges, they opened the box, expecting to find a lost camera, cell phone, sweater or camping equipment and finding instead all the garbage they left behind for someone else to clean up.  As I recall, these particular campers had consistently ignored posted rules and basic guidelines for acceptable behavior in general.  I'm pretty sure they broke every possible rule.  So they pretty much deserved it.   I'm pleased to report that the offenders were NOT OHV riders and that every time I've been camping with OHVers we've left our camp sites and the surrounding area cleaner and in better condition than we found them.  That isn't to say that all OHV riders are so considerate.  However, when our Desert Rat group sponsored a cleanup day at one of our favorite staging areas, we filled a 40-yard dumpster and very little of the trash we collected could be traced to OHV activities.  Most was household and construction debris dumped by residents of surrounding towns.   I've run other service projects and talked to organizers of other similar projects and they've consistently experienced the same thing.  How anyone can think OHVers are hauling sofas and toilets around on their dirt bikes and ATVs and dumping them is beyond me!

For all the conveniences of home of included in modern RVs, trash containers are usually conspicuously absent.   In nearly 40 years of RV ownership I've only had one or two that came with even a small built-in trash can, about the size you normally use in a bathroom, certainly not adequate for a weekend family outing.   Some of the huge, luxury, bus conversions may have trash compactors, but even those seem to be few and far between.  A couple of motorhomes I owned had little a wastebasket built in to the counter top behind the sink.  In all other cases, we've had to "make do" with plastic trash bags or putting a modest sized trash can in a cabinet or even in the shower in some cases.   RV stores have plastic bag holders that can be attached to the inside of a cabinet door that will turn ordinary plastic grocery bags into convenient temporary trash containers.  If you have to resort to putting a wastebasket in the shower, use a bungee cord or other strap to secure it so it doesn't tip over on the road.  The lack of trash receptacles in RVs reminds me of the anecdote about an architect who was designing a new cathedral.  He sent the plans to the Cardinal for review and they came back with just one question "Are they angels?"  After puzzling over the comment for some time, the architect discovered he had not included any restrooms in the design!   I guess RV designers must think their customers are angels and don't generate any trash while camping.  In reality the opposite is true. Camping often generates more trash than at home since we have a tendency to use more convenience foods, which means more packaging to dispose of.   I suppose the lack of a permanent trash container in an RV makes people use plastic bags and take the trash out more often instead of letting it collect and spoil in an enclosed space, but it sure is nice to have a handy trash can, especially when preparing meals.   And tent campers are not exempt!   You'll want to keep a trash receptacle handy when preparing your meals and cleaning up afterwards, even it its just a plastic bag clamped to the edge of your picnic  table or counter top.

Controlling outdoor trash.  Most developed campgrounds will have trash cans and/or dumpsters conveniently located so you can easily dispose of your trash.  They will often even have trash barrels at each camp site.  When boondocking you'll need to provide your own -- and remember: pack it in, pack it out!  Most of us don't have room to carry around a big trash can, but you can use large contractor trash bags, with or without a collapsible holder to corral your outdoor trash so it doesn't end up all over the landscape.   Even the slightest breeze will send loose napkins, paper plates, and paper cups, scattering.  Collapsible trash cans take up little room during transit but function like "real" garbage cans in camp.   Put a large plastic trash bag in one and you have really convenient garbage can.   When it comes time to empty it or head home, just pull out the bag and tie it off for transport to a proper disposal site.   I modified some "quad" camp chairs to hold plastic bags and serve as medium sized trash receptacles.  I removed the fabric seat then removed the back test.  The result is a sturdy square framework that takes up little room during transit but conveniently holds large plastic trash bags in camp.  I've since discovered leaf bag  holders designed to  hold large contractor trash bags for yard work that work the same way.  These collapsible containers are a handy way to handle trash in camp.

Incinerating your trash.  You can often reduce the amount of trash you have to store and bring home by burning combustible stuff in your campfire.   Make sure there are no pressurized containers (like whipped cream, shaving cream, paint, or cleaning supplies) in the trash you put into the campfire.  Otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise that may cause serious injuries when the cans explode.  Even tightly capped plastic water and soda bottles can explode with surprising force when they heat up, not to mention the toxic fumes from burning the plastic.  While plastic bottles don't generate the kind of lethal shrapnel that metal cans do, the explosions can send out a rain of hot coals and flaming debris.   Don't put batteries in the campfire.   They do not burn well, actually, not at all! However, paper goods (plates, napkins, cups, bowls, and packaging) can be burned.  Some folks prefer to avoid styrofoam or other plastic containers as they think they may emit toxic fumes when they burn, if you burn a lot at one time.    Most of the vapors from burning styrofoam are water and carbon dioxide, but they also emit a small amount of styrene and incomplete burning may result in carbon soot.   Tin and aluminum cans often find their way into fire pits, but someone will just have to fish them out and cart them away sooner or later. Some light-weight aluminum cans may melt and even burn in a very hot fire, but here again, you don't want to be breathing the fumes from burning metal.  Campfire coals can  get surprisingly hot, especially if they are fanned by a light breeze, which effectively acts like a blacksmith's bellows.  Aluminum vapor doesn't make a good lining for your lungs!   Better to crush cans and keep them separate for proper disposal or, better yet, recycling.   Crushing them reduces the space they'll take up and can be made into a game for the young people in camp.  Stomping down aluminum cans is pretty easy.   I've seen guys who think they're macho, smash them against their foreheads, but I certainly don't condone or recommend the practice!   Putting non-combustible materials in your campfire will soon fill the fire pit and make it ineffective and unsafe.   You can probably get away with burning paper plates that still have food on them if no one is sitting around the campfire.   Burning food can sometimes produce offensive odors, so burn such things before people gather around the fire or after they've gone or, at the very least, get their permission before dumping a bunch of smelly garbage into the fire.  Wet kitchen garbage won't burn well and may smolder and give off smoke and offensive odors for a long time.  Some people are allergic to certain foods, and exposing them to the smoke could cause serious reactions.  If you insist on burning your peanut shells, you may need to have an epi-pen handy to counteract the anaphylactic shock that can result from an allergic reaction in someone who is allergic to peanuts.  Be considerate.

Tent campers should follow the advice above for controlling outdoor trash.   You may also find it convenient to hang a grocery bag inside your tent to collect candy wrappers, napkins, tissues, etc.  Another convenient spot for a trash bag is near your "kitchen" area or on the picnic table.  Having a place to collect trash instead of leaving it all over the place keeps your tent and your camp site neat and tidy and will save you a lot of time chasing errant trash and cleaning up at the end of the trip. Leaving trash lying around inside your tent invites pests -- insects and vermin -- that may chew up your gear as well as leave unwelcome, unpleasant, and unsanitary droppings.

Make it convenient.  The secret to keeping trash under control is to make it convenient to put it where it belongs.  Have trash cans or bags close where ever you are opening packages or preparing food.  Clamp one to the end of your picnic table.   Hang one on a door handle of your vehicle or RV. If you have to go all the way to the trash can in the shower in your RV to get rid of a hand full of trash it is likely to end up left out and get blown away.  But if you have trash bag handy, you can keep it all together and make only one trip to the trash can at the end of the activity.  Keep a bag near the entrance to your tent.   You might have a tendency to push it back out of the way, but then it won't get used.   Few RVs have garbage disposals.   Adding more solid waste to holding tanks isn't a very practical thing to do.   So food wastes go into the garbage.   Using small trash cans or bags and emptying to disposing of them frequently helps prevent the accumulation of smelly garbage in your tent or RV.

Collapsible trash cans are a convenient way to corral camp trash.  They are inexpensive and take up little room in transit.  Line them with a plastic bag to avoid permanent stains and odors.  The bags can be deposited in the local dumpster or tied tight and hauled home for proper disposal.   Collapsible trash cans come in a variety of sizes so they can be easily adapted to just about any need -- kitchen, bathroom, or outdoors.  They are especially useful when you have a place to dispose of the bags of trash so you can close them down again for the trip home.   Before the nylon collapsible trash bags became readily available, I cut down some inexpensive camp chairs to make them into trash bag holders.   Essentially I reduced the chairs to their metal frameworks and removed the backrests, leaving a 4-posted collapsible frame to which I could attach trash bags.  Worked like a charm. Another handy tip is to use or re-purpose an old collapsible clothes hamper as a trash bag holder.

At the end of your outing, have everyone make a pass through your campsite and adjacent areas and pick up an errant trash that has managed to escape.  When I was in the army they called it "policing the area" and the drill sergeant who sent us out  about arms length apart barked all he wanted to see was "backsides and elbows".  Of course his exact words were a little more colorful but you get the picture.  That way you leave the site in good condition for the next camper (who could be you again!).  If you leave your trash behind you invite the next person to do the same.  If you clean it up, you're setting a good example and encouraging subsequent users to keep it clean. Involving everyone in your group will also help them appreciate how important is it keep control of their trash through the outing and make the task go faster.

Most developed campgrounds have large trash receptacles (cans or even dumpsters) for your use but when boondocking you'll be responsible for hauling out your own trash.    Never leave your trash bags in camp or along the road.   Be sure to close the lids on any public trash receptacles when you use them.

Make sure any leftover trash you have to take home is well contained.  Tie off plastic trash bags, even those in waste baskets to prevent them getting spilled and to control foul odors.  Double-bag anything that has potential for making a mess -- things with sharp edges and particularly nasty or gooey stuff. I'd rather waste a couple of trash bags than have to scrub crud out of my carpet or have it seep under cabinets!   Ordinary plastic grocery bags make pretty good trash bags.   For larger, stronger choices, purchase kitchen trash bags or even contractor trash bags.

Keep it clean!