Perhaps the first question is why would anyone bother to update an older RV? Given the bargains on late model units in today's slow economy, it might seem to make more sense to upgrade to a newer unit instead of sinking money into an older one. That may be true, but there may still be valid reasons to update an older unit. Sometimes it will be less expensive to update an older unit you have already paid for than to upgrade to a newer model. Upgrades can be done in increments, as time and other resources are available, while upgrading to a newer unit usually requires a single, large expense or a commitment to years of additional payments. Or maybe you just really like your current unit and would like to make some improvements to make it even more enjoyable. Owners of classic motorhomes like the front wheel drive GMCs and the early Travcos may take special pride and satisfcation in their machines. You may have seen conveniences in newer models that you could adapt to yours. Sometimes newer appliances are also more efficient. Or maybe you just want to update the appearance. If you really like your existing RV you may have already customized it with features and accessories that meet your specific needs and it would be time consuming and probably expensive to repeat all the changes if you purchased a newer RV. At one time I remember seeing offers to install slideouts on older RVs, but I don't know of anyone doing that these days.
If you are buying your first RV and are on a limited budget, you may be able to pick up an older model for a song. If it doesn't have any problems you can't deal with, you might save a ton of money and end up with a very unique and enjoyable rig. A low initial purchase price may give you some extra $ for repairs, upgrades and improvements.
Financial considerations. There are many real estate studies to help us measure the value of improvements to our permanent residences but there are few if any to guide us in making wise investments in updating our RVs. Updating an RV isn't so much about improving resale value as it is extending its useful lifetime to current owners and increasing the owner's enjoyment and convenience in using it. If you really like your current RV and are comfortable using it and it doesn't have any major mechanical or structural flaws, you may want to explore your options to make it even more fun and extend its useful lifetime. But don't expect to reap a big financial return on investments you make in an older unit. Chances are you'll never recoup what you spend on updates.
Analysis will probably demonstrate that significant updating is unlikely to add enough to the resale value to make it a sound financial investment. If a unit is in really bad shape a few well chosen, cost-effective repairs may help bring it up to market value, but major renovations and especially upgrades will almost never deliver a good monetary payback. The main payback for updating an older RV is owner satisfaction. If you like your RV, it may be cheaper to update than to replace it -- without the risk of getting something you'll never like as well. There may be some simple repairs and renovations that will enhance the resale appeal if not the actual value. But don't count on making a quick buck or even breaking even on most updates! Do count on enhancing the convenience and pleasure you get from using your RV.
If the upholstery is getting worn, having it re-done will add years of use and enjoyment and perhaps improve resale appeal even if it adds little to the actual price. Many fabrics used in older RVs have a very dated look even if they are still in good condition. Reupholstering the sofa and chairs will go a long way toward improving the interior appearance and extending its usable lifetime and visual appeal. The upholstery in one of my Smuggler trailers was beyond repair. Fortunately, it was all removable cushions so I was able to simply remove them and take them in to be recovered. I had them all recovered in a sturdy, Scotchgard protected fabric. It looked like new inside and the seating and beds were far more comfortable. I didn't have a particular color (other than being somewhat compatible with the existing carpet) or look I needed so my upholsterer was able to take advantage of closeout prices on a sturdy fabric that helped keep the cost down. If you can sew the new covers yourself you can save even more.
Slip covers are not often used in RVs, but might provide a quick and inexpensive temporary solution to damaged upholstery in the living area. Slip-on seat covers might work on the driver and co-pilot seats that often show the most wear and tear. Plush or fleece covers can also make cold vinyl or leather seats more comfortable in winter months.
Flooring is usually a relatively easy and inexpensive update if you can do it yourself. If your unit has linoleum or vinyl flooring you may be able to install press-and-place tile directly over the old surface for a quick and fairly inexpensive do-it-yourself upgrade. If the old flooring is torn or worn through it should be removed and the under layment properly prepared before installing new tile or sheet goods. A heat gun may be helpful in removing old glued down flooring. I have used acetone to soften the residual glue and embedded backing so I could scrape it down enough to get a smooth surface. Always ensure you have adequate ventilation when using solvents and adhesives. If you are using sheet goods, try to remove the old flooring in one piece so you can use it as a pattern. If that doesn't work, make a pattern from cardboard or newspaper so you can cut the new flooring exactly the first time. Press and place tile is easier to work with than sheet goods. If you cut one wrong you haven't wasted the whole sheet. Carpeting is a little more difficult to install and may require some specialized tools (like "kickers") to ensure proper installation and fit. In small, confined areas, like a little camper or trailer or a narrow hallway, you may be able to get away without having to tack the carpet into place. For larger areas and for more secure installations anywhere, use "tackless strips" along the edges or an adhesive over the entire floor to anchor the carpet. What are the specific advantages of carpet or hard flooring? Hard flooring is easier to clean which makes it ideal for galley and eating areas. Carpet is warmer and softer to walk on for bedroom areas or if you just want warmer floors throughout your RV. Carpet also provides additional insulation to prevent heat loss and reduce road noise. If you don't have experience cutting carpet, make a pattern from newspaper or cardboard first and then cut the carpet to carefully match your pattern. Patterns tend to "creep" so check alignment often to be sure your carpet will match your pattern and will fit properly.
A really quick and easy update is changing the bedspread and shams in the bedroom. If you can make a bed you can easily implement this change yourself. Select materials that match or complement the existing decor -- unless you also plan to change wallpaper, window treatments, and flooring.
Window treatments are another good candidate for updating. Compared to some modifications they are relatively easy and inexpensive and done right will improve livability and enjoyment as well as updating the appearance. Window treatments might include drapes, curtains, shades, or blinds or adding solar film to the windows. For winter camping, you can use a clear stretch window covering on the outside for extra insulation if your unit doesn't already have dual pane windows. You can also make inserts of reflective foam or "bubble" insulation to block heat in summer, hold in the heat in winter, control unwanted outside light, and ensure privacy inside. Replacing any cracked, broken, or missing window panes kind of goes without saying and falls more into the maintenance category than upgrades -- unless you are upgrading from single to dual-pane windows. Dual pane windows can conserve energy and improve interior comfort, but are a pretty expensive and difficult modification. However, any reasonably competent do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the task if you can find matching sizes. You simply remove all the screws securing the window frames, use a putty knife to loosen the "putty tape" that seals the window frame, remove the old window, apply NEW putty tape to the new window, put the new window into place, and re-install the screws. Ideally you can purchase replacement windows the same size and shape as the old ones. Otherwise you will have to modify the opening to fit the new windows. If you have the right tools and know how to use them it is pretty easy to enlarge an existing opening, but very difficult to close one up to use a smaller window. Upgrading the windows may be a pretty ambitions and expensive task if exact replacement sizes are not available, so beware. Slight differences in the radius of the rounded corners can create major fit and installation problems resulting in unsightly patching and leaks.
Interior lighting updates are pretty easy and relatively inexpensive. Replacing faded and inefficient existing lights with newer ones is the easiest, but adding more lights in convenient locations is usually a viable option as well. Cracked or discolored shades, lenses, or covers can sometimes be replaced to improve existing lights at minimal cost and effort. You can usually tap into to existing wiring inside the bottom shelf of cabinets if yo want to add new lights. To add new ceiling lights you may have to "fish" wiring from an existing fixture or add surface "tracks" for the wire. Automatic closet lights are a nice addition if you don't already have them. Replacing existing incandescent fixtures with LED models will save battery power.
Closet and cabinet improvements. Switching closet rods from the old standard bars to rods specially designed for RVs can keep your clothes from ending up on the floor on rough roads. Adding shelves or organizers can greatly improve the convenience and efficiency of your cabinets. To keep hangers on ordinary rods, try stuffing a big car wash size sponge on top of the rod over the hangers to keep them from bouncing off. Replacing missing or damaged doors can sometimes avoid the cost of replacing the cabinets.
Exterior upgrades tend to move toward the high end, but there are a few things you can do without breaking the bank. Wheel simulators can replace aging, missing or outdated wheel covers for a few hundred dollars and they make a big difference in the appearance. Full body paint and graphics will really make an older unit look younger, but be prepared to shell out some significant bucks, especially if you want it done right. Just a restoration of part of the paint (the lower 2') on my 40' Holiday Rambler cost the previous owner about $6000! Sometimes you can update the paint on faded highlight panels on campers or travel trailers yourself using spray paint. Small panels or stripes, say up to about a foot in height, are the best candidates. It is really hard to get even coverage on larger areas with a spray can. Be sure you prepare the old surface according to the requirements and recommendations for the paint you'll be using. Then mask off the adjacent areas, and repaint the stripes. If you aren't already skilled in applying spray paint, practice on a piece of cardboard until you can get a consistently smooth application. You may have to apply several thin coats. A common mistake of amateurs is to apply coats that are too thick. This often causes unsightly runs and will slow drying time, allowing dust or small insects to become embedded in the paint. If you do get runs you can sometimes gently blot them away and then touch up the spot with fresh spray. I don't recommend spray can painting of large sections as it is difficult to get even coverage over large areas with a spray can. But it can be a very cost effective improvement on smaller areas. If the original finish itself is still in fairly good condition or can be restored, you might be able to upgrade the look with more modern vinyl stripes or graphics or even just replacing faded original graphics. By the way, you might be surprised how much better your RV will look after just a good detailing. It may take you a whole weekend to wash and wax an RV or you might have to spend a couple hundred bucks to have it done professionally, but when it has been completed, even a dated paint job will look a lot better when it is bright and shiny. Faded, cracked, or missing lights and lenses can be easily replaced to add a "like new" touch. And don't forget the chrome! Most newer RVs have little "bright metal" trim but older units that do can usually benefit from a good shining. If the chrome is beginning to pit you may be able to remove much of the rust by rubbing it with a penny or a copper kitchen scrubber. The copper is soft enough so it doesn't damage the chrome while hard enough to scrape away the rust. And you can, literally, do it for pennies! Then polish it with a good metal polish. I've used "chrome" spray paint fairly successfully to improve the appearance of rusted chrome. It doesn't really come out looking like chrome but it is a lot nicer than rusty spots! If the chrome surface is severely damaged, you may be able to remove the parts and have them re-chromed. Re-chroming is an electroplating process and can be somewhat expensive, especially if you don't prep the parts first. Some accessories, like rear view mirrors are easy to replace and not too pricey. You may even want to look at power or heated mirrors to add convenience as well as improve appearance. Newer mirror designs may even improve safety by giving you better visibility. Some mirrors these days have integrated turn signal indicators that help remind you when you use your turn signals and add a touch of warning for nearby drivers.
Exterior lighting can often be upgraded at nominal costs. You might want to upgrade your standard headlights to Halogen, HID, LED or other high performance lamps or add driving lights or fog lights. The OEM headlights on many older motorhomes were installed with substandard wiring. Upgrading the wiring and connecting them directly to the battery via relays instead of running them directly from the headlight switch will often improve brightness. Replacing faded, broken, or missing clearance lights, parking lights, etc will improve safety as well as appearance and might save you a fix-it ticket. I found a kit to add turning lights to one of my motorhomes. They were wired into both the parking lights for power and the turn signals to activate the side-facing lights much like those on luxury automobiles. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any of those around since the 1990s so I don't know if they are still available. Docking lights are a feature on many large, high-end vehicles and can be added to just about any RV fairly easily. They usually mount about the middle of each side to illuminate the dark area between headlights and backup lights when backing into a camp site. OEM installations are usually recessed into the wall. You might get away with installing ordinary driving lights beneath the coach -- if you have sufficient ground clearance. You may also want to update existing porch lights or add more at convenient locations. Most RVs come with at least one porch light near the entrance. Other locations I've found convenient include the front of a trailer to illuminate the tongue area and hitch and near the outside shower. I also added some really bright flood lights (salvaged from an ambulance) to the rear and the curb side of my motorcycle trailer to facilitate after-dark bike maintenance and illuminate group activities after dark.
Furniture, such as sofas, chairs, and tables can often be replaced to improve the appearance and functionality of your RV. If your old sofa isn't a sleeper, switching to a sleeper can add room form more guests. Sometimes you can replace dual chairs with a sofa for even more sleeping room if your family is out growing your present rig. Dinette cushions can be easily replaced or recovered.
Cabinets and counter tops are usually too expensive to update, but you might try painting or refinishing cabinets for a fresh look. I would only go after the cabinets if they were really ugly or badly damaged and then probably only in an older unit where any collateral damage wouldn't affect the resale value or appeal. Damaged or missing doors might be replaceable. If you can't match your existing doors, perhaps you could replace them all for an updated look. You might be able to use Contact Paper to recover some cabinets and doors. If you have cabinets that are damaged beyond repair and have to be replaced you might be able to get replacements from a junked RV at a wrecking yard or find new pre-made cabinets at a home center or building supply store. Measure carefully to be sure they will fit and that you can get them through the RV door! Make sure you anchor them properly, keeping in mind they will be subjected to much greater stress than they would in a fixed residence. If counter tops are damaged you will probably need the services of a professional to replace them. If you do have to replace counter tops you might want to consider upgrading old Formica counters to solid-surface, ceramic tile, or even granite -- if your budget can handle it. You might be able to pick up a suitable sized piece of granite from remnants from a residential counter top shop fairly cheaply, but you will still need professional equipment and/or help to cut it and finish it to fit your RV and to install it. Replacing damaged Formica is a fairly straightforward task, but because of the precision required for proper fit and clean, smooth joints, you will probably want to have it professionally done. Sometimes you can adapt a pre-made residential countertop from a home center if you can find one the right size. Faded Formica can be difficult to restore but I've had good luck using the same SC-1 detail spray I use on my dirt bikes.
Appliances can be updated to replace damaged, defective, unattractive, or inefficient models in older units. Or you might just want to have some of the features of newer models. But, unless you have ready access to used units in good condition, this can be an expensive upgrade, especially if you try to replace them all at once. If your appliances still function properly, consider a good cleaning and perhaps painting before costly replacement. Be sure to use special appliance paint for best results and appropriate durability. Stoves, ovens, range hoods, and painted refrigerators are all candidates for this. Some refrigerators have a replaceable front panel to change the color or texture. These panels can sometimes be refinished or covered with Contact Paper or wall paper for a new and fresh look if replacement panels are no longer available. My dad removed the damaged and dated wallpaper covering from a fridge panel, then cleaned and varnished the underlying plywood panel. The result was a rather spectacular natural wood finish that blended with the rest of the paneled interior! You may be able to add a roof air conditioner to a unit that didn't have one. I once got one salvaged from a motorhome in a junkyard for just $100 to install on my enclosed motorcycle trailer. New ones will cost many times that. Some motorhomes and trailers were pre-wired for air conditioners, making the installation fairly easy. If yours was not pre-wired you'll have to run 120-volt wiring for the roof A/C and will probably have to add a breaker in the panel for it. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring it is best to have this done by a professional -- a licensed electrician or a competent RV technician. Roof A/Cs are usually designed to fit the same 14"x14" opening as a standard roof vent. Before adding a heavy A/C to the roof of your RV, check to see if it will support the load. You may have to remove an existing vent to inspect the supporting structure around the opening. If there is no supporting structure, consult a competent RV technician to see if adequate support can be added to ensure the heavy A/C unit doesn't come crashing down and bring a good part of the roof with it. Stoves/ovens, water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators are, of course, also candidates to be upgraded. Try to find units with the same dimensions as the originals to minimize the amount of structural or cosmetic modifications needed for the change over. Of course, if one of your goals is a larger fridge or bigger furnace, you will have to modify the surrounding cabinets to accommodate the new units. Because of technological advances, you may be able to improve performance or capacity within the same footprint as the original models, so shop around. If you do a lot of winter camping and your current furnace is inadequate, consider adding a second furnace. You will probably have to sacrifice some cabinet space, but it will be well worth it. Be sure you understand all the installation requirements or hire a professional to assist you. Improper installation could result in fire or an explosion. A popular alternative to a second furnace is a catalytic heater. These are especially good for boondocking since they don't have a fan to consume battery power. Other popular appliances in newer units include ice makers and counter-top food processors. These are not cheap upgrades but they do add convenience and functionality so they are worth considering -- especially if you can get your hands on some good used equipment at a reasonable price. One way to get used equipment is to buy a "donor" vehicle, a used or salvage motorhome or trailer that has appliances or fixtures you can scavenge for your RV. I've seen fairly late model salvage travel trailers offered for as little as $100.
Entertainment systems. Many new luxury RVs come with elaborate home theater systems. Older units can often benefit from the addition of a simple radio/cassette/CD player or a portable TV. If you have the cabinet space to spare and the budget, you can install permanent entertainment options to fit your wants and needs. I found it convenient to use a combination DVD/VCR unit in my motorhome. It saves space and simplifies wiring and switching between sources. These days you may also need a digital converter if your TV isn't digital ready. A "batwing" roof antenna usually does a pretty good job of grabbing over-the-air TV signals. There are digital upgrades that can be installed on older antennas if necessary. For the ultimate viewing choices, consider a satellite receiver system. These are fairly expensive and require a monthly fee to the satellite provider. Satellite antenna options include portable models you set on the ground or on a table and permanent, roof-mounted dishes. The ultimate antenna can even be used on the road and automatically re-aligns itself as you drive, but these are very expensive. Modern flat screen TVs with built in DVD players are reasonably priced and and be installed just about anywhere. The are much lighter and used much less electricity than the older CRT models.
A generator is a desirable addition if you don't already have one. You'll need to find an appropriate place to mount it. It will have to be in an exterior cabinet that is sealed against fumes entering the coach. It should also be well insulated to minimize noise levels inside the coach. You may have to add insulation to achieve satisfactory results. On travel trailers you may be able to mount it on the tongue or build a rack on the back bumper. Other considerations include access to the fuel supply and wiring to feed the power to the coach's existing 120-volt system -- or wiring your own system if there is none in place to start with. The simplest way to connect a generator is to wire it to a receptacle in the power cord storage compartment where you can plug in the existing shore power line. Buying a used generator in good condition can save you hundreds of dollars. so check out your favorite sources -- local classified ads, ebay, cragislist, and local junk yards. For even more convenience, consider connecting the generator through an automatic transfer switch. Then you don't have to plug and unplug the shore power line each time you want to use the generator. You will want to select a generator whose fuel supply is compatible with the fuel your vehicle already uses. Options include gasoline, diesel, and propane powered generators. Some diesel powered motorhomes use propane powered generators and they are also a good choice for trailers, which don't have a source of motor fuel.
Automatic transfer switches are a nice addition if you don't already have one. These devices sense when the generator is running and automatically switch from shore power to generator power. If you already have a generator but have to plug and unplug your shore power line when using it, adding an automatic transfer switch may be a viable option. You can expect to pay $100 to $300 for one and, unless you are a qualified electrician, may have to have it professionally installed to ensure safety and proper operation.
Upgrades that add comfort and driving enjoyment may not be readily visible to the average on-looker but are still often worth considering for owner comfort and satisfaction. Perhaps one of the most frequent changes are suspension improvements. This could be as simple as replacing worn shock absorbers with better quality units or as complex and expensive as upgrading the entire suspension and adding anti-sway bars. Just replacing worn-out shocks can significantly improve the ride and handling of older units. I've seen owners add shock absorbers to travel trailers that didn't have any to reduce how much things get tossed around inside on rough roads and reduce the jerking on the tow vehicle. When I broke a spring on one of my "Smuggler" trailers, I replaced and upgraded both springs to enhance the load bearing capacity of the suspension. You should always replace both springs if one breaks to maintain even weight distribution and performance. Upgrading my springs gave me a little extra ground clearance on desert roads and negotiating in and out of primitive camp sites as well as increased carrying capacity and a better ride. A major consideration when replacing springs are the dimensions -- the overall length and the width of the leaves and the mounting eye. You may need different sized U-bolts to mount the new springs. It is a very good idea to use new U-bolts anyway, even if the old ones will still fit. The old ones will have been stretched and stressed by torquing and use. A well advertised option is the addition or air bags to increase weight capacities and stiffen suspension to improve handling. This can be very effective in many situations but I urge you to use caution. I have seen airbag installations that resulted in bending the motorhome frame because they altered the weight distribution. The bags were mounted directly over the rear axle where the frame was the weakest and became the primary load bearing point. OEM airbag installations often reinforce the frame to avoid this problem. I had an aeronautical stress engineer evaluate the specifications for the frame on my motorhome and found out with air bags installed a drop of as little as 1.5", such as is often found where driveways meet the street, would be enough to bend the frame! Sometimes you can have old springs "re-arced" to restore near original performance. You might also be able to have one or more leafs added to existing springs to give added ride height and load capacity.
Performance enhancements. Who wouldn't like to pull up hills more easily or maintain highway speeds on grades? Or get better gas mileage? Some vehicles lend themselves well to performance upgrades, some do not. Banks Engineering provides a proprietary "Power Pack" system that can be used on many popular chassis to improve air intake and exhaust performance, usually delivering gains in both performance and fuel economy. However, increases in performance usually come at the expense of higher fuel consumption and improved mileage usually means reduced performance. The manufacturer's warranty on many newer engines prohibit any modifications and some modifications may seriously reduce engine life expectancy, so be cautious about making any changes to your vehicle's engine. Improvements in intake and exhaust as well as upgrades in computer chips for modern engines can make significant power and fuel economy gains, but make sure your engine can handle the load and the modifications don't invalidate any warranty. Calculate the fuel savings to determine the "pay back" time for the cost of performance enhancements to see if they will be economically viable. Many improvements are so costly you may never get it back in fuel savings unless you drive a lot!
Mechanical upgrades. Unless you have a major problem with the power train you probably won't want to attempt any significant mechanical upgrades. If you have engine problems and would like more power you might consider installing a larger engine. Another option is to make internal improvements when rebuilding your engine. When the Chevrolet 454 engine in my Class A Suncrest began knocking and required a rebuild, we upgraded the pistons and added an "RV" camshaft to improve performance. I would probably not have made those upgrades if I wasn't already rebuilding the engine. Sometimes a worn out or defective engine can be replaced with a good used or rebuilt motor. Upgrading to a larger motor or converting from gas to diesel are often a lot of work and are usually cost prohibitive. Other things you might consider are adding an overdrive/underdrive unit like Gear-Vendors to give you more options in gear ratio for either higher highway speeds and improved mileage or lower ratios for more pulling power. Upgrading from drum to disc brakes adds a measure of safety and peace of mind but the task is quite daunting and expensive. Some home hot-rod modifications like swapping carburetors and intake manifolds might be worth considering, but perform enough due diligence and research to make sure they will be worth the effort and that you will have realistic expectations for the results. Some engine modifications will invalidate your warranty, if you have one and may cause problems passing emissions test where such tests are required. Intake and exhaust enhancements, like Banks PowerPack kits, are popular ways to improve performance, if there is a kit available to fit your engine.
Replacing original equipment parts can be problematic on older units. Exact replacement parts may be hard to find, perhaps even impossible. You may have some luck and junk yards or on ebay. There are also salvage yards that specialize in RVs and companies that stock old parts so be sure to check the Internet for possible sources. You'll be surprised what you can find among "NOS" -- New Old Stock parts. When you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to convert to the closest modern equivalent. Taillight assemblies may have to be totally replaced if you can't find replacements for damaged lenses. You may be forced to replace missing or broken windows with the closest size you can find. If you have damaged exterior panels you may have to replace entire sections when you can't match the pattern and texture of the original to achieve a good cosmetic repair. In a pinch, a small area of damage might be covered by a "fake" vent panel. Choose a standard residential flat furnace wall vent big enough to hide the damage and paint it to match your unit.
Fun stuff! Fun additions such as awnings, outside BBQs and outside showers can add fun and livability to your RV. Screen rooms or "add-a-room" enclosures can enhance the utility of your patio awning. If you frequently engage in activities after dark, you might improve the exterior lighting on your rig. I added a bright white light salvaged from an ambulance to my enclosed motorcycle trailer to make night time maintenance tasks easier. A matching light on the side of my motorhome illuminated the entire "circle of wagons" for evening group activities. Some campers like to fly flags on their rigs, either as sign of their patriotic nature or a club or group identifier. Small flags can be temporarily mounted in brackets mounted to the side of your RV. Larger flags can be flown from flagpoles. Mine mounts in a pipe welded to the tongue of my motorcycle trailer. Portable flagpoles are available with a base you drive one of your tires onto and can fly your favorite flag(s) high above the vehicle roof. There are fancy LED powered star burst lights you can mount on your flagpole to help guide late arrivals to your camp site at night. I found a 12-volt powered fan that mounts in the accessory rail on my patio awning to provide a pleasant breeze under the awning. There are at least two kinds of devices designed to fit into the accessory rail and attach lights, shades, banners, etc. One style is a series of "S" hooks with plastic tabs that slide into the awning rail. Another has clamps like those on suspenders to clip to the awning and grab banners and shades.
Many of today's RVs have slide outs that greatly expand and improve the living space in camp. It is possible to have a slide out added to some older RVs but it is usually not cost effective. Count on something on the order of $2000 a foot! That's right, not $200, but $2000 a foot. Adding a 14' slide out to an existing RV can cost around $28,000. You'd have to REALLY love your old RV and REALLY want a slide out to justify spending that kind of money. And unless you are already an engineer and trained RV technician, this kind of upgrade will require professional engineering and installation. If you really wants a slide out it will probably be less expensive to sell or trade your current RV for one with a slide. Even with professional installation, adding a slide to an older RV may be problematic since the body and frame wasn't designed to handle the additional stress that slides create and it may be difficult or even impossible to do an adequate retrofit.
Bargain updates. To maximize the value and minimize the cost, look for bargains on materials and appliances for your updates. Used or discontinued RV appliances and furniture are often available on ebay and other online selling sites or even from your local RV store at reduced prices. You may be able to purchase a cheap wrecked vehicle to serve as a donor for appliances and accessories. Keep an eye on closeouts at your local home center for things you can use in your RV. Limit your changes to things you can do yourself to eliminate paying premium rates for professional installation services. If you have an update you really want but don't feel qualified to tackle yourself, shop around for advice and estimates. Feel free to send me an inquiry. If I don't already have any useful information, I'll research it and let you know.
The most cost effective updates are those you can do yourself with minimal materials. A thorough detailing will take a lot of elbow grease and, to make it easier and do it right, you may have to invest in some specialized cleaners but it may deliver the best return on investment. You'll feel better using a clean, well kept RV and it will have better sales appeal and resale value. Along those lines, replacing damaged or discolored vent and A/C covers and clearance lights are also among good things to do. The "Blue Book" values are based on units in fairly good condition and any damaged vents or lenses will result in a downgraded rating, reducing the curb appeal and the trade-in or potential sales value.
Update and away!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
12-Volt RV Accessories
There are lots of 12-volt accessories for your RV. Most come with a plug to fit in a standard 12-volt receptacle which is like a cigarette lighter socket. You will probably want to add some sockets at convenient locations where you want to use your accessories. When choosing a location, your primary criteria will be the convenience of using accessories, but there are installation requirements you need to consider too. First, will there be a source of power available or can you safely run wiring from a nearby source? Next, is there room to mount the socket? You will need a flat surface with enough room in a cabinet behind it to accommodate the depth of the socket and wiring connections. It should be located where it won't be in the way or damaged by contents in the cabinet. In many cases the bottom shelf on RV cabinets is hollow. Y ou can usually pry up the paneling inside the cabinet and gain access to the space. Take it easy and work your way along the whole edge so you don't make unwanted holes in edge of the panel. Often there will already be 12-volt wiring inside for under-cabinet lights you can tap into. There may also be room to mount the socket so it is inside the hollow space and doesn't intrude into usable cabinet space. When I haven't been able to use the hollow bottom shelf, I usually mount the socket high in the cabinet and as far into a corner as possible to get it out of the way as much as I can. 12-volt sockets are handy for using a "car charger" to recharge cell phones, I-pads, etc.
If you need a 12-volt socket outside, use a marine-grade waterproof socket. You may have to go to a marina or boat supply store to find one. I use such an external socket on my motorcycle trailer to plug in my strobe lights. Before I installed the socket, I had to run the wiring through an open window to an inside socket, which was always a bit of a nuisance and not good at all in inclement weather. Note: these sockets are only water proof when the attached cap is closed so use in rain is not recommended. The covers only keep the weather out when nothing is plugged in. For that reason I have installed permanently mounted and wired strobe lights on the roof of my motorcycle trailer.
Many RVs come with general purpose area lighting under the cabinets. You may want to add some high intensity reading lights. You will probably need to cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to accommodate the new light fixtures. Then wire the new lights to the wires that feed the existing area light. Most reading lights will have a built-in switch. If yours doesn't, you'll need to put a switch in the hot feed between the source and the light. The best place to put it would be beside the new fixture, but you may want to mount it through the face or side of the cabinet instead if that would make it easier to use. Just make sure the wires and connections are protected so they won't be jarred loose or shorted out by contents in the cabinet. Mounting the switch adjacent to the fixture should allow all the wiring etc to be safely concealed inside the hollow shelf.
With a little research you can probably find 12-volt versions of most common household electrical appliances including radios, TVs, VCRs, corn poppers, hair dryers, mixers and blenders, just to name a few. 12-volt appliances can be used in RVs and you can run them off your cigarette lighter in your vehicle when tent camping. If you plan to use 12-volt appliances, make sure you have sufficient battery capacity to handle the load and monitor your appliance usage and battery state. It will be very disappointing if you turn on the blender and all it does is hum softly and perhaps even more disappointing if you wake up cold in the middle of the night because you ran the batteries down watching TV all afternoon and the furnace has stopped working and is only blowing cold air! And the ultimate nasty surprise: you drained your batteries and can't get your vehicle started to go home! Motorhomes usually have separate isolated battery banks for the engine and the coach, reducing your chances of running down your starting battery. But if you're using the cigarette lighter in your car or tow vehicle to power 12 volt appliances while tent camping, you will need to closely monitor the level of battery charge to avoid getting stranded.
If you can't find a 12-volt version of a 120-volt appliance you want to use you might be able to use an inverter to supply 120-volt power using your battery bank. Inverters convert 12-volt DC from batteries into 120-volt AC power. You can get small ones (100-400 watts) that plug into 12-volt receptacles to power a single small device (like a laptop) or hard wired ones (up to 3000 watts) that can run several outlets. About the only down side to inverters are there is some loss of energy in the conversion process and keep in mind that 120 volt appliances will use 10 times the energy of 12 volt appliances of the same amp rating. Inverters are sometimes a good way to run your TV and entertainment system without running the generator -- if you have a enough battery capacity.
Most RVs come with one or more auxiliary power sockets (12-volt receptacles like cigarette lighter sockets). Why would you need more auxiliary power sockets? Think about what you will be using them for. Do you need a portable fan near your bed? Do you need a convenient place to plug in your cell phone charger? How about chargers for re-chargeable lanterns and entertainment devices? Portable air pumps? You can buy 12-volt TVs, DVD and VCR players for use in your RV and you'll need a place to plug them in. You may want to install a weatherproof socket on the outside of your RV where you can plug in air compressors to pump up OHV tires, 12-volt work lights, even 12-volt fans to cool the "patio" under your awning. If you add an exterior socket, be sure to use a waterproof, marine-grade fixture.
Wiring your accessories. If you don't need accessories to be portable or don't need the ability to use multiple accessories in the same place you can hard wire them. Lights are almost always hardwired. Permanently mounted fans should be hard wired too. If you need a socket to plug in your cell phone charger or plug in a portable fan, install a cigarette lighter socket. Regardless of what your are wiring, pay close attention to the polarity -- connect hot leads of the accessory or socket to the 12-volt power supply and the ground leads to a vehicle ground. RV 12-volt wiring usually uses red wires for hot and black for ground, but test your wiring to be sure. Owners (and even mechanics) often use whatever they have on hand when adding accessories so wiring could be any color. Connect the ground clamp of a test light to a known ground and touch the probe to the wire to be tested, making sure to contact the metal conductor and not just the insulation. The test light will come on when you touch a hot lead but will not light when you touch a ground wire or other non-powered wire. Connecting accessories backwards can damage some electronic components or create a potential shock or fire hazard. 12-volt DC electricity isn't as dangerous as 120-volt AC power. You probably won't even get an unpleasant tingle but it may create a situation where arcing can occur and cause a fire if you cross-wire things. For most 12-volt connections you can use wire nuts -- plastic cones that twist onto the ends of the two wires to be joined. Strip about 1/2" of insulation from both wires, twist the wires together, then twist on the wire nut. Twist the wires and the wire nut in a clockwise direction for installation. Turn the wire nut until it is snug, but don't over-tighten or you'll risk twisting off the wires. For even more permanent and secure connections you can solder the wires together and wrap the connection with electrical tape or use heat-shrink insulation.
Whenever you add accessories you want the installation to look good. If you're adding a cigarette lighter socket, make sure you drill the right size hole so it fits snugly. Automotive style receptacles are designed to install through a thin metal or plastic dash panel. Installing them through thicker wall panels in RVs may require some modification. Receptacles designed especially for RVs come mounted in a chrome or other metal finished plate about the size of a residential light switch plate that simplifies installation and gives a nice, professional appearance. Since they are already mounted, it gives you more latitude in drilling the hole and they can be installed on thick walls. Look for 12-volt wall outlets at your favorite RV supply store. When adding surface mount lights on walls or ceilings make the opening in the surface beneath the fixture where you run the wires large enough to push the wire nuts back inside so the fixture will mount tightly if there isn't room in the base of the fixture. For best appearance, align ceiling fixtures to be parallel to adjacent walls. You can usually do this by eye-balling them, but to be certain, you might want to measure and mark alignment. When mounting items on the wall, you may be able to use a level -- assuming your RV itself is level at the time. Or measure from adjacent walls, ceiling, windows, or cabinets. If you have to run exposed wiring, you may be able to disguise it with plastic wire guides or tracks. These are available in various colors at home centers and usually have a semi-circular cross-section that is open all along one edge so you can push the wires inside. There is an adhesive strip attached to the flat back surface. Be sure to clean the area where it will be attached so the adhesive strip will stick. Rubbing alcohol is usually a good way to quickly clean the area. You run your wires first, cut the guide to fit the length of the exposed wires, remove the covering from the adhesive strip, carefully slide the guide over the wires, keeping the adhesive away from the surface until you are ready to press it into place. Slip the wires into the guide, then press it tightly against the surface so the adhesive strip will hold it in place. Usually keeping pressure on for about 30 seconds is enough to make it stick. Use rubber grommets to protect wires wherever they pass through metal surfaces, rough wood openings, or where you want to make a professional looking penetration that will normally be visible.
Warning indicators. Single 12-volt LEDs are easy to install as indicators to remind you when things are turned on. One innovative RV owner wired one to the on/off switch of the water heater and installed it right next to the switch so he could tell when the hot water heater was turned on. Most RV water heaters have a red light that lets you know when the water heater isn't working but should be (that is, it is turned on). Most hydraulic or electric leveling jacks have indicators to let you know when they are in the extended position. Another common place to add an indicator is on the electric step to let you know when it is extended and remind you to retract it before driving off (most motorhomes have an interlock to prevent this, but it is a nice addition to travel trailers). The water pump usually has a lighted indicator, but if it doesn't this is another good place to add one. you have an auxiliary electric heating element on your water heater you might add a 120-volt LED to let you know when it is powered. If you can't remember if your TV antenna is up or down, try adding an indicator light to that too. I have several outside lights on my RV and trailer and have added LED indicators inside so I can tell if the lights are on or off, even in the daylight. You can also use illuminated switches that glow when in the "on" position. Since battery power is a limited and quite precious resource when camping, being able to detect and eliminate unnecessary light usage can significantly reduce battery drain.
Plug it in!
If you need a 12-volt socket outside, use a marine-grade waterproof socket. You may have to go to a marina or boat supply store to find one. I use such an external socket on my motorcycle trailer to plug in my strobe lights. Before I installed the socket, I had to run the wiring through an open window to an inside socket, which was always a bit of a nuisance and not good at all in inclement weather. Note: these sockets are only water proof when the attached cap is closed so use in rain is not recommended. The covers only keep the weather out when nothing is plugged in. For that reason I have installed permanently mounted and wired strobe lights on the roof of my motorcycle trailer.
Many RVs come with general purpose area lighting under the cabinets. You may want to add some high intensity reading lights. You will probably need to cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to accommodate the new light fixtures. Then wire the new lights to the wires that feed the existing area light. Most reading lights will have a built-in switch. If yours doesn't, you'll need to put a switch in the hot feed between the source and the light. The best place to put it would be beside the new fixture, but you may want to mount it through the face or side of the cabinet instead if that would make it easier to use. Just make sure the wires and connections are protected so they won't be jarred loose or shorted out by contents in the cabinet. Mounting the switch adjacent to the fixture should allow all the wiring etc to be safely concealed inside the hollow shelf.
With a little research you can probably find 12-volt versions of most common household electrical appliances including radios, TVs, VCRs, corn poppers, hair dryers, mixers and blenders, just to name a few. 12-volt appliances can be used in RVs and you can run them off your cigarette lighter in your vehicle when tent camping. If you plan to use 12-volt appliances, make sure you have sufficient battery capacity to handle the load and monitor your appliance usage and battery state. It will be very disappointing if you turn on the blender and all it does is hum softly and perhaps even more disappointing if you wake up cold in the middle of the night because you ran the batteries down watching TV all afternoon and the furnace has stopped working and is only blowing cold air! And the ultimate nasty surprise: you drained your batteries and can't get your vehicle started to go home! Motorhomes usually have separate isolated battery banks for the engine and the coach, reducing your chances of running down your starting battery. But if you're using the cigarette lighter in your car or tow vehicle to power 12 volt appliances while tent camping, you will need to closely monitor the level of battery charge to avoid getting stranded.
If you can't find a 12-volt version of a 120-volt appliance you want to use you might be able to use an inverter to supply 120-volt power using your battery bank. Inverters convert 12-volt DC from batteries into 120-volt AC power. You can get small ones (100-400 watts) that plug into 12-volt receptacles to power a single small device (like a laptop) or hard wired ones (up to 3000 watts) that can run several outlets. About the only down side to inverters are there is some loss of energy in the conversion process and keep in mind that 120 volt appliances will use 10 times the energy of 12 volt appliances of the same amp rating. Inverters are sometimes a good way to run your TV and entertainment system without running the generator -- if you have a enough battery capacity.
Most RVs come with one or more auxiliary power sockets (12-volt receptacles like cigarette lighter sockets). Why would you need more auxiliary power sockets? Think about what you will be using them for. Do you need a portable fan near your bed? Do you need a convenient place to plug in your cell phone charger? How about chargers for re-chargeable lanterns and entertainment devices? Portable air pumps? You can buy 12-volt TVs, DVD and VCR players for use in your RV and you'll need a place to plug them in. You may want to install a weatherproof socket on the outside of your RV where you can plug in air compressors to pump up OHV tires, 12-volt work lights, even 12-volt fans to cool the "patio" under your awning. If you add an exterior socket, be sure to use a waterproof, marine-grade fixture.
Wiring your accessories. If you don't need accessories to be portable or don't need the ability to use multiple accessories in the same place you can hard wire them. Lights are almost always hardwired. Permanently mounted fans should be hard wired too. If you need a socket to plug in your cell phone charger or plug in a portable fan, install a cigarette lighter socket. Regardless of what your are wiring, pay close attention to the polarity -- connect hot leads of the accessory or socket to the 12-volt power supply and the ground leads to a vehicle ground. RV 12-volt wiring usually uses red wires for hot and black for ground, but test your wiring to be sure. Owners (and even mechanics) often use whatever they have on hand when adding accessories so wiring could be any color. Connect the ground clamp of a test light to a known ground and touch the probe to the wire to be tested, making sure to contact the metal conductor and not just the insulation. The test light will come on when you touch a hot lead but will not light when you touch a ground wire or other non-powered wire. Connecting accessories backwards can damage some electronic components or create a potential shock or fire hazard. 12-volt DC electricity isn't as dangerous as 120-volt AC power. You probably won't even get an unpleasant tingle but it may create a situation where arcing can occur and cause a fire if you cross-wire things. For most 12-volt connections you can use wire nuts -- plastic cones that twist onto the ends of the two wires to be joined. Strip about 1/2" of insulation from both wires, twist the wires together, then twist on the wire nut. Twist the wires and the wire nut in a clockwise direction for installation. Turn the wire nut until it is snug, but don't over-tighten or you'll risk twisting off the wires. For even more permanent and secure connections you can solder the wires together and wrap the connection with electrical tape or use heat-shrink insulation.
Whenever you add accessories you want the installation to look good. If you're adding a cigarette lighter socket, make sure you drill the right size hole so it fits snugly. Automotive style receptacles are designed to install through a thin metal or plastic dash panel. Installing them through thicker wall panels in RVs may require some modification. Receptacles designed especially for RVs come mounted in a chrome or other metal finished plate about the size of a residential light switch plate that simplifies installation and gives a nice, professional appearance. Since they are already mounted, it gives you more latitude in drilling the hole and they can be installed on thick walls. Look for 12-volt wall outlets at your favorite RV supply store. When adding surface mount lights on walls or ceilings make the opening in the surface beneath the fixture where you run the wires large enough to push the wire nuts back inside so the fixture will mount tightly if there isn't room in the base of the fixture. For best appearance, align ceiling fixtures to be parallel to adjacent walls. You can usually do this by eye-balling them, but to be certain, you might want to measure and mark alignment. When mounting items on the wall, you may be able to use a level -- assuming your RV itself is level at the time. Or measure from adjacent walls, ceiling, windows, or cabinets. If you have to run exposed wiring, you may be able to disguise it with plastic wire guides or tracks. These are available in various colors at home centers and usually have a semi-circular cross-section that is open all along one edge so you can push the wires inside. There is an adhesive strip attached to the flat back surface. Be sure to clean the area where it will be attached so the adhesive strip will stick. Rubbing alcohol is usually a good way to quickly clean the area. You run your wires first, cut the guide to fit the length of the exposed wires, remove the covering from the adhesive strip, carefully slide the guide over the wires, keeping the adhesive away from the surface until you are ready to press it into place. Slip the wires into the guide, then press it tightly against the surface so the adhesive strip will hold it in place. Usually keeping pressure on for about 30 seconds is enough to make it stick. Use rubber grommets to protect wires wherever they pass through metal surfaces, rough wood openings, or where you want to make a professional looking penetration that will normally be visible.
Warning indicators. Single 12-volt LEDs are easy to install as indicators to remind you when things are turned on. One innovative RV owner wired one to the on/off switch of the water heater and installed it right next to the switch so he could tell when the hot water heater was turned on. Most RV water heaters have a red light that lets you know when the water heater isn't working but should be (that is, it is turned on). Most hydraulic or electric leveling jacks have indicators to let you know when they are in the extended position. Another common place to add an indicator is on the electric step to let you know when it is extended and remind you to retract it before driving off (most motorhomes have an interlock to prevent this, but it is a nice addition to travel trailers). The water pump usually has a lighted indicator, but if it doesn't this is another good place to add one. you have an auxiliary electric heating element on your water heater you might add a 120-volt LED to let you know when it is powered. If you can't remember if your TV antenna is up or down, try adding an indicator light to that too. I have several outside lights on my RV and trailer and have added LED indicators inside so I can tell if the lights are on or off, even in the daylight. You can also use illuminated switches that glow when in the "on" position. Since battery power is a limited and quite precious resource when camping, being able to detect and eliminate unnecessary light usage can significantly reduce battery drain.
Plug it in!
Monday, September 5, 2011
General Camp Site Lighting
It can get REALLY dark in camp. Most of us live in urban or suburban environments with lots of street lights and light pollution from office buildings, shopping malls, parking lots, traffic, and neighbor's homes and have no idea how dark it can be on a moonless night in a remote area. Even if you aren't within the glow of streetlights etc, the reflection off clouds or even air pollution creates a glow from remote cities etc. that usually illuminates the darkness to some extent in urban and suburban areas. It can be surprising -- even frightening for some people -- how dark it gets when you get away from the city! Moonless nights in the desert or forest are extremely dark. Deep woods often filter enough moonlight to make it almost like there is no moon at ground level in some forests, even when there is a full moon. If you are an RVer, you will usually have some built-in indoor lighting (as long as your batteries hold up). Most RVs have one or more outside "porch" lights that illuminate the area next to the RV entrance. For more distant activities or for tent camping you'll need portable light sources. Some older travel trailers and truck campers had propane powered lights but you aren't likely to see them very often these days. Even units that did have them have often been converted entirely to 12-volt lighting long ago. One feature of propane lights was that they gave off quite a bit of heat, helping to warm a camper on chilly evenings, but during warmer times that was a distinct disadvantage.
Flashlights are one of the least expensive and most convenient and versatile sources of portable illumination. You can often even find them at "dollar" stores. These plastic bargains are usually not very durable but they can provide many hours of illumination at a very low cost. They are also an attractive option if you have people (like children) who tend to break or lose track of things easily. The loss or destruction of a $1.00 flashlight is no big deal. Dollar stores often have fairly nice little aluminum pocket LED flashlights that are fairly durable, efficient, and quite attractive. There are also high-end flashlights made of aircraft grade aluminum that are far more durable and often even waterproof, but they can be quite expensive -- upwards of $25-$50. Cheap flashlights are usually not adjustable; better units can often be adjusted so the beam casts a spot light or flood light pattern. Flashlights are ideal for individual use in moving around in the dark and for many camp tasks. Traditional flashlights use a small incandescent bulb but today you can also buy flashlights with multiple LEDs that use far less power and both batteries and the LEDs last a lot longer than when using ordinary bulbs. My wife and I both carry small, LED flashlights powered by AA or AAA batteries in our fanny packs and/or tool kits when we go dirt biking. They will provide much needed illumination for any after-dark repairs on the trail and for signaling if needed. We used to use regular "mini-mag" lights. They are sturdy and effective but the little LED lights don't weigh as much and don't take up as much room and the batteries in the LED lights will last a lot longer and LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs. In addition to a standard on-off switch, most flashlights have a push-button that can be used to turn the light on momentarily to aid in signaling. You should at least know the Morse Code signal for S.O.S. -- three dots, three dashes, three dots. When signalling with a light that means three quick flashes, three slow flashes, and three quick flashes. Urban myths equate S.O.S. to Save Our Souls or Save Our Ship, but it reality it was simply the ease of signally S.O.S. in Morse code that led to the use of S.O.S. for an emergency signal. The cute, if historically inaccurate, phrases now associated with it do serve as useful memory aids.
Multi-purpose lights. As with just about any camping gadget, multi-purpose lights are attractive since they can serve many uses without the weight and space requirements of separate items. One I've found particularly convenient came from Harbor Freight. It is an LED light with a focused LED spot light on one end and a bank of LEDs in a flood light configuration on one flat side. It cost under $3.00 with a coupon. It measures about 2"x3"x3/4", is light weight, and takes up little space in pocket, purse or pack, yet provides a lot of light. It has a built in plastic hook so you can hang it in your tent on or a convenient branch. It also has a magnet if you need to attach it to your vehicle -- or your camp stove. Some larger camp lanterns also feature both spot and flood light options. Keep your eye out for potentially useful items everywhere you go. I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns shaped like old-fashioned kerosene lanterns at a discount store for $10 each and small solar camping lanterns for just $2.00 each. The kerosene style lanterns have 17 LEDs, a dimmer for controlling brightness, and run on 3 "D" cell batteries. I once left one on in my barn overnight and it was still bright the next day when I discovered it and turned it off and was still functional for months afterwards. Leave an ordinary incandescent battery light on overnight and you'll have dead batteries by morning. I've even seen a single incandescent bulb left on in an RV drain the big 12-volt deep cycle house battery in an afternoon!
Wide area lighting may be needed for some activities, such as preparing, serving, and eating meals and for many games, chopping wood, or repairing equipment. Some RVs are or can be equipped with wide-angle lighting but the traditional camp standard is the gas lantern. The long-time standard camping lantern is the Coleman gas lantern, but today's lanterns come in many sizes, shapes, and fuel choices. Some of my favorite exterior lights came off of an old ambulance. They provide excellent flood lighting for night time repairs and other activities, but the bulbs are difficult to find and quite expensive. Fortunately, they are quite durable.
Awning lights are popular for use on RV awnings. Some folks string 120-volt patio lanterns along the accessory rail on the awning. Smaller strings, similar to Christmas lights are also frequently used. You can find these in various camping themes like mini Coleman lanterns, American flags, and chili peppers. You could even use ordinary Christmas lights. Awning lights provide festive illumination for activities under or near your RV awning. The latest additions include programmable, multi-colored LED rope lights that can put on quite a show. LED lights will use less power than incandescent versions and won't heat up and possibly damage the awning fabric. One word of caution when using awning lights: be considerate of your neighbors. Excessive lighting might intrude into their space.
White-gas or propane powered lanterns provide a bright white light almost like an electric light bulb. They also produce quite a bit of heat. A friend of mine used one as the only heat source for his Class B motorhome on cool evenings. They might be enough to take the chill off in your motorhome or tent, but always make sure you have adequate ventilation or you could succumb to fumes or suffocate due to lack of oxygen. One other significant feature of these lanterns is that the mantles are quite fragile. They are made of silk ash. When they are new they are little silk mesh socks you tie onto the gas outlets of the lanterns. They are then burned to turn them into ash, which glows brightly when the gas is lit, giving off the characteristic bright white light. Always bring plenty of spare mantles. It doesn't take much to break them once they've been burned. Anytime you use a gas lantern inside an RV or tent or other confined space make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation (yes, it is worth repeating -- repeating and repeating!).
Kerosene lanterns lend an old-fashioned touch to camping. They are a little less fragile than gas lanterns because they use a standard, sturdy cotton wick instead of the delicate silk ash mantle. The wick also makes them a little more flexible in the level of light than gas lanterns. They are not nearly as bright and the light is not as white as a gas lantern, but they are economical to purchase and to operate and lend a nice ambiance. They are usually less expensive to buy than gas lanterns, often under $10. At one time the fuel was commonly used in many homes for lanterns and heaters so everyone already had fuel. It is seldom used in our urban and suburban homes today but it is still readily available. One potential downside is that kerosene gives off a distinctive odor similar to jet fuel (which is actually kerosene). If you don't like the smell of burning kerosene you can burn fragrant lamp oils or odorless "liquid paraffin". Use citronella oil to help keep the bugs away. You can usually find kerosene lanterns at farm and ranch stores, at some sporting goods stores and I've even seen them at Walmart.
There are many battery powered lanterns available where ever camping goods are sold. Some use square 6-volt batteries, some use multiple "D" or "C" cells, some are rechargeable. Some even have built-in solar chargers to recharge them during the day. You can even get lanterns with remote controls so you can turn them off after you've already snuggled into your sleeping bag. One of my favorite tent lights is very small and runs on "AAA" batteries. It has a florescent tube for area lighting and a focused bulb on one end so it can be used as a directed flashlight. It is small enough to fit easily into a shirt pocket or fanny pack (about the size of three ball point pens) and runs on two "AAA" batteries. These days I'd look for an LED model. LEDs are much cooler and significantly more efficient than incandescent bubls. I recently acquired a couple of LED lanterns designed to look like kerosene lanterns. They have 17 LEDs on a dimmer switch, powered by 3 D cell batteries. The LEDs have a projected life of over 100,000 hours and the way LEDs sip energy, the 3 D cells will last a long time. I've already used them at home for several hours and they show no signs of degradation. I even left one on overnight in my barn and it was still burning bright the next morning when I went out. Try that with ordinary incandescent lights and the batteries would be dead dead dead by morning.
Candles are another old-fashioned and inexpensive lighting solution. Citronella candles on your picnic table also help keep bugs away. Exercise caution when using candles inside of an RV and be especially careful or avoid using them altogether in your tent. Candles are very susceptible to breezes. There are lantern-like candle holders that protect the flame from the breeze and to some extent, provide extra safety if the candle gets knocked over. Candles give off some dangerous fumes and do consume oxygen, so always use them with adequate ventilation. You can make your own decorative candle "lanterns" from discarded tin or aluminum cans by punching a design into them using an awl or ordinary nails. Some folks like to paint them flat black so they look more like lanterns.
Tiki torches are often used for back yard and patio illumination and, if you have room to bring them camping, they would provide a nice touch to an evening's activities. Use some citronella oil in the them and they double as insect repellant. Do not use tiki torches inside a tent or RV or under an awning or canopy. If space is at a premium, look for torches that can be broken down into small components you can tuck them in cabinets or camping tubs more easily. I've seen large candles on a stick that are designed for similar backyard or camping use.
Solar lights provide a safe and energy efficient way to have modest illumination in camp. They aren't going to light up the campground like a baseball stadium, but they are sufficient to light the pathways, mark tent pegs, and even illuminate your camp stove and dinner table. And they aren't expensive. I've even seen them at Dollar Tree on several occasions. Some were stake-style yard lights and some were designed to look like little rocks (except for the solar panel on top and the lens on one side). You can probably add a bail or handle and remove the stakes on the yard or pathway lights so you can hang them in your tent or from your RV awning. I even found a couple of solar powered tent lights at a discount store for $2.00 each. They are each about the size of a soup can but are sufficient for comfortable tent lighting -- unless you're doing something that requires more intense light, like needle work or surgery!
Custom camp lights can be as creative as you feel like being. Some of the innovations I've seen and used include bright white flood lights salvaged from a wrecked ambulance and mounted to the wall of my RV and trailer to light up the work area around my motorcycle trailer and a 500-watt 120 volt Halogen yard work light I mounted on a staff that fastens to the ladder of my motorhome when we want to light up the whole campsite for group activities. Many RVers attach strings of festive lights to their awnings. These are usually more for decoration than illumination, yet can still provide a nice glow for your "patio party" and are available in a variety of shapes and colors. One of my favorites for general camping is a Christmas light like string of tiny lights shaped like Coleman lanterns. You might choose lighted chilis for a Mexican themed party or American flags for the 4th of July. The possibilities are endless. Ordinary Christmas lights could also be used. I suggest going for the new LED lights. They have bright colors, use little power, and don't get hot like incandescent bulbs, reducing the risk of scorching your awning or canopy -- or your fingers should you happen to touch one. Rope lights are also popular as awning lights. Plain white provides comfortable illumination and there are some fancy (but somewhat pricey) multi-colored version with multiple flash patterns and remote controls.
Work lights of various sorts may be needed. If you have a generator you might use an ordinary drop light, but there are LED, florescent and incandescent 12-volt work lights you can buy for use on battery power in and around your RV or other vehicle. Some use flashlight batteries and are completely portable; some plug into your 12 volt socket. A camping lantern can also be used for illuminating a general work area and an ordinary flashlight can be used in close quarters.
Chemical light sticks are good for markers to highlight obstacles or people and to provide some light for moving around. They usually aren't bright enough for reading or any serious activities, such as cooking, repairing equipment, or playing board or card games. I did find they were a good substitute for the burning sticks the kids liked to drag out of the fire and wave around. They lasted longer and eliminated the danger of someone or something getting accidentally set on fire! I tried attaching them to our "Desert Rat" signs at night to help guide latecomers to camp, but kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them. I keep one in my fanny pack (safely stored in a short piece of PVC pipe capped on both ends (but not glued). It may not provide a lot of light for emergency night time repairs on the trail, but it would be better than nothing and any kind of light can provide comfort if you're stuck out for very long. They can be used for signaling and may even help keep wild animals away. A light stick is usually adequate to light your way to the latrine at night too.
Strobe lights are sometimes used as markers to aid late arrivals in locating our OHV camps in the desert. The ones I've used for years are dome-shaped units with suction cups on the bottom and are wired to plug into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle on the outside of my motorcycle trailer. I've seen really fancy LED "starburst" lights designed for the top of a flagpole that would be even more visible from a distance. Of course you wouldn't want to use something that bright in a developed campground where it would annoy your fellow campers but it works well in the open desert where we usually have plenty of space between camps.
Natural light. Moonlight is often adequate for many camp activities when the moon is near full. I've seen it light enough during a full moon in the desert to even ride OHVs (cautiously) without needing headlights. During a new moon you'll need supplemental light sources, unless you and your companions have the eyes of a cat! For best results, avoid wiping out your night vision by exposing your eyes to bright lights inside your RV. When you first step out of a brightly lit RV into a moonlit night, you'll be nearly blind for several minutes until your eyes adapt to the darkness. If you do need temporary auxiliary light, try using a red filter on your flashlight. That will usually let you see what you need to see with minimal affect on night vision. A red flashlight would be useful for illuminating the firewood pile so you don't mess up your night vision. I find using red filters especially helpful when working with telescopes for star gazing. They provide sufficient light to assemble and adjust the optics and read star charts and don't trigger the restriction of the pupils like bright white does.
Firelight retains the ambiance of camping. For large gatherings, a big bonfire might be appropriate. For more intimate occasions, keep the fire small and add a few Tiki torches if you need more light. You can fuel the Tiki torches with citronella lamp oil to help keep the bugs away so they're especially good around the picnic table or other eating or sitting areas. Sometimes having several small fires is more effective and efficient than one big one.
Tent lighting. I strongly favor battery powered lights for use in tents and other small enclosed spaces. Any kind of flame-powered light includes the risk of setting the tent on fire and suffocation as the flame consumes available oxygen. If you MUST use your Coleman or kerosene lantern in a tent, exercise extreme caution and keep a couple of windows open an inch or two for cross ventilation. Just touching the hot glass globe to a tent wall or sleeping bag can melt it beyond repair, so be VERY careful using any kind of flame device inside a tent. The close quarters in most tents means you have to be careful not to touch the lantern globe. It becomes VERY hot and will blister your skin instantly. My favorite tent light is powered by a couple of AA batteries and includes a spot light and a general illumination flood light. An LED version would be ideal since the batteries will last longer.
Searchlights and spotlights can be helpful in locating a remote camp when boondocking and for searching for errant campers who may have wandered away from camp in the dark. Remote control searchlights mount on the roof of RVs and usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings so they can be used for general camp site lighting in "flood" mode or as a beacon or search light in "spot" mode (helpful finding signs). Though not as popular as they once were, spotlights that can be mounted on the windshield post of many vehicles can help locating signs and landmarks when searching for a remote camp at night. In a pinch you might use them to light up an area for after-dark equipment maintenance. Portable spotlights can also come in handy. I've seen them with ratings in the range of 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 candle power, having range up to a mile! I've seen some that used ordinary flashlight batteries, some that are 12-volt powered (connect to a 12-volt cigarette light style receptacle) and even some that are rechargeable.
Trail lighting. Many ATVs are equipped with headlights so night time operation is often viable. Dirt bikes (especially those designed for motocross), on the other hand, usually don't have headlights unless they are Enduro style bikes or have been modified. The magnetos on many dirt bikes are not designed to handle the demands of lighting so you may have to upgrade the electrical system if you plan to add lights. Baja Designs provides light kits for most off-road bikes. A friend of mine upgraded the electrics on his dirt bike and added a 55 watt halogen driving light as a headlight. Man, did that light up the trail! We called it the "bush burner". In an emergency I've seen guys tape flashlights to their handlebars, front fenders, or helmets, but the light pattern is very limited and most flashlights won't last long, especially given the constant bouncing and vibration to say nothing of the quick battery drain by incandescent bulbs. Unless they are LED flashlights they will drain the batteries pretty quickly, leaving you in the dark again. I picked up a specially designed helmet mounted light but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Chemical light sticks might be used to make the vehicle more visible but they won't provide enough light to see where you're going. Flashlights are very good options for night time hiking. You should have at least one on your person on any hike, just in case you are out after dark. In an emergency you might use duct tape or cable ties to secure a flashlight to the handlebars or front fender of your OHV for at least some lighting.
Emergency signaling. If you get lost or your OHV breaks down and you're stuck out on the trails after dark, it may be a good idea to just stay put if you can't see where you're going unless you are in immediate danger if you stay where you are. A flashlight or light stick can make you and your vehicle more visible to searchers or any other riders who may come along and you may be able to use them to flash an "S O S" (three short, three long, three short flashes). If you think you'll be stuck out for any length of time or all night, you may want to try to get a fire going. Fire will keep you warm, provide a visible signal for potential rescuers, and keep animals away. If you use fuel from your OHV to start the fire, make sure your OHV is far enough away from the fire to avoid lighting it up -- and make sure the fuel is shut off before moving your OHV! For a couple of examples of the consequences of failing to follow this advice, check out the movies "On Any Sunday" and On Any Sunday II". In "On Any Sunday" the rider manages to set his bike on fire because it is too close to his signal fire. In "On Any Sunday II" he carefully moves the bike a safe distance away before lighting his fire -- but he had disconnected the fuel line to soak the wood to make getting his fire going easier and forgot to shut it off, leaving a trail of fuel from the fire pit to his bike. He lights his fire, it snakes a long the trail and "Poof!" his bike once again goes up in flames. On the one hand, a burning bike, will probably make a very good signal, especially once the magnesium parts start burning. On the other hand, that's a pretty expensive signal fire! It may be kind of amusing to watch in the movie, but I doubt if any of us would be laughing if it happened to us. And once those magnesium parts start to burn you're going to have a heck of time putting out the fire without a Class D fire extinguisher.
Light it up!
Flashlights are one of the least expensive and most convenient and versatile sources of portable illumination. You can often even find them at "dollar" stores. These plastic bargains are usually not very durable but they can provide many hours of illumination at a very low cost. They are also an attractive option if you have people (like children) who tend to break or lose track of things easily. The loss or destruction of a $1.00 flashlight is no big deal. Dollar stores often have fairly nice little aluminum pocket LED flashlights that are fairly durable, efficient, and quite attractive. There are also high-end flashlights made of aircraft grade aluminum that are far more durable and often even waterproof, but they can be quite expensive -- upwards of $25-$50. Cheap flashlights are usually not adjustable; better units can often be adjusted so the beam casts a spot light or flood light pattern. Flashlights are ideal for individual use in moving around in the dark and for many camp tasks. Traditional flashlights use a small incandescent bulb but today you can also buy flashlights with multiple LEDs that use far less power and both batteries and the LEDs last a lot longer than when using ordinary bulbs. My wife and I both carry small, LED flashlights powered by AA or AAA batteries in our fanny packs and/or tool kits when we go dirt biking. They will provide much needed illumination for any after-dark repairs on the trail and for signaling if needed. We used to use regular "mini-mag" lights. They are sturdy and effective but the little LED lights don't weigh as much and don't take up as much room and the batteries in the LED lights will last a lot longer and LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs. In addition to a standard on-off switch, most flashlights have a push-button that can be used to turn the light on momentarily to aid in signaling. You should at least know the Morse Code signal for S.O.S. -- three dots, three dashes, three dots. When signalling with a light that means three quick flashes, three slow flashes, and three quick flashes. Urban myths equate S.O.S. to Save Our Souls or Save Our Ship, but it reality it was simply the ease of signally S.O.S. in Morse code that led to the use of S.O.S. for an emergency signal. The cute, if historically inaccurate, phrases now associated with it do serve as useful memory aids.
Multi-purpose lights. As with just about any camping gadget, multi-purpose lights are attractive since they can serve many uses without the weight and space requirements of separate items. One I've found particularly convenient came from Harbor Freight. It is an LED light with a focused LED spot light on one end and a bank of LEDs in a flood light configuration on one flat side. It cost under $3.00 with a coupon. It measures about 2"x3"x3/4", is light weight, and takes up little space in pocket, purse or pack, yet provides a lot of light. It has a built in plastic hook so you can hang it in your tent on or a convenient branch. It also has a magnet if you need to attach it to your vehicle -- or your camp stove. Some larger camp lanterns also feature both spot and flood light options. Keep your eye out for potentially useful items everywhere you go. I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns shaped like old-fashioned kerosene lanterns at a discount store for $10 each and small solar camping lanterns for just $2.00 each. The kerosene style lanterns have 17 LEDs, a dimmer for controlling brightness, and run on 3 "D" cell batteries. I once left one on in my barn overnight and it was still bright the next day when I discovered it and turned it off and was still functional for months afterwards. Leave an ordinary incandescent battery light on overnight and you'll have dead batteries by morning. I've even seen a single incandescent bulb left on in an RV drain the big 12-volt deep cycle house battery in an afternoon!
Wide area lighting may be needed for some activities, such as preparing, serving, and eating meals and for many games, chopping wood, or repairing equipment. Some RVs are or can be equipped with wide-angle lighting but the traditional camp standard is the gas lantern. The long-time standard camping lantern is the Coleman gas lantern, but today's lanterns come in many sizes, shapes, and fuel choices. Some of my favorite exterior lights came off of an old ambulance. They provide excellent flood lighting for night time repairs and other activities, but the bulbs are difficult to find and quite expensive. Fortunately, they are quite durable.
Awning lights are popular for use on RV awnings. Some folks string 120-volt patio lanterns along the accessory rail on the awning. Smaller strings, similar to Christmas lights are also frequently used. You can find these in various camping themes like mini Coleman lanterns, American flags, and chili peppers. You could even use ordinary Christmas lights. Awning lights provide festive illumination for activities under or near your RV awning. The latest additions include programmable, multi-colored LED rope lights that can put on quite a show. LED lights will use less power than incandescent versions and won't heat up and possibly damage the awning fabric. One word of caution when using awning lights: be considerate of your neighbors. Excessive lighting might intrude into their space.
White-gas or propane powered lanterns provide a bright white light almost like an electric light bulb. They also produce quite a bit of heat. A friend of mine used one as the only heat source for his Class B motorhome on cool evenings. They might be enough to take the chill off in your motorhome or tent, but always make sure you have adequate ventilation or you could succumb to fumes or suffocate due to lack of oxygen. One other significant feature of these lanterns is that the mantles are quite fragile. They are made of silk ash. When they are new they are little silk mesh socks you tie onto the gas outlets of the lanterns. They are then burned to turn them into ash, which glows brightly when the gas is lit, giving off the characteristic bright white light. Always bring plenty of spare mantles. It doesn't take much to break them once they've been burned. Anytime you use a gas lantern inside an RV or tent or other confined space make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation (yes, it is worth repeating -- repeating and repeating!).
Kerosene lanterns lend an old-fashioned touch to camping. They are a little less fragile than gas lanterns because they use a standard, sturdy cotton wick instead of the delicate silk ash mantle. The wick also makes them a little more flexible in the level of light than gas lanterns. They are not nearly as bright and the light is not as white as a gas lantern, but they are economical to purchase and to operate and lend a nice ambiance. They are usually less expensive to buy than gas lanterns, often under $10. At one time the fuel was commonly used in many homes for lanterns and heaters so everyone already had fuel. It is seldom used in our urban and suburban homes today but it is still readily available. One potential downside is that kerosene gives off a distinctive odor similar to jet fuel (which is actually kerosene). If you don't like the smell of burning kerosene you can burn fragrant lamp oils or odorless "liquid paraffin". Use citronella oil to help keep the bugs away. You can usually find kerosene lanterns at farm and ranch stores, at some sporting goods stores and I've even seen them at Walmart.
There are many battery powered lanterns available where ever camping goods are sold. Some use square 6-volt batteries, some use multiple "D" or "C" cells, some are rechargeable. Some even have built-in solar chargers to recharge them during the day. You can even get lanterns with remote controls so you can turn them off after you've already snuggled into your sleeping bag. One of my favorite tent lights is very small and runs on "AAA" batteries. It has a florescent tube for area lighting and a focused bulb on one end so it can be used as a directed flashlight. It is small enough to fit easily into a shirt pocket or fanny pack (about the size of three ball point pens) and runs on two "AAA" batteries. These days I'd look for an LED model. LEDs are much cooler and significantly more efficient than incandescent bubls. I recently acquired a couple of LED lanterns designed to look like kerosene lanterns. They have 17 LEDs on a dimmer switch, powered by 3 D cell batteries. The LEDs have a projected life of over 100,000 hours and the way LEDs sip energy, the 3 D cells will last a long time. I've already used them at home for several hours and they show no signs of degradation. I even left one on overnight in my barn and it was still burning bright the next morning when I went out. Try that with ordinary incandescent lights and the batteries would be dead dead dead by morning.
Candles are another old-fashioned and inexpensive lighting solution. Citronella candles on your picnic table also help keep bugs away. Exercise caution when using candles inside of an RV and be especially careful or avoid using them altogether in your tent. Candles are very susceptible to breezes. There are lantern-like candle holders that protect the flame from the breeze and to some extent, provide extra safety if the candle gets knocked over. Candles give off some dangerous fumes and do consume oxygen, so always use them with adequate ventilation. You can make your own decorative candle "lanterns" from discarded tin or aluminum cans by punching a design into them using an awl or ordinary nails. Some folks like to paint them flat black so they look more like lanterns.
Tiki torches are often used for back yard and patio illumination and, if you have room to bring them camping, they would provide a nice touch to an evening's activities. Use some citronella oil in the them and they double as insect repellant. Do not use tiki torches inside a tent or RV or under an awning or canopy. If space is at a premium, look for torches that can be broken down into small components you can tuck them in cabinets or camping tubs more easily. I've seen large candles on a stick that are designed for similar backyard or camping use.
Solar lights provide a safe and energy efficient way to have modest illumination in camp. They aren't going to light up the campground like a baseball stadium, but they are sufficient to light the pathways, mark tent pegs, and even illuminate your camp stove and dinner table. And they aren't expensive. I've even seen them at Dollar Tree on several occasions. Some were stake-style yard lights and some were designed to look like little rocks (except for the solar panel on top and the lens on one side). You can probably add a bail or handle and remove the stakes on the yard or pathway lights so you can hang them in your tent or from your RV awning. I even found a couple of solar powered tent lights at a discount store for $2.00 each. They are each about the size of a soup can but are sufficient for comfortable tent lighting -- unless you're doing something that requires more intense light, like needle work or surgery!
Custom camp lights can be as creative as you feel like being. Some of the innovations I've seen and used include bright white flood lights salvaged from a wrecked ambulance and mounted to the wall of my RV and trailer to light up the work area around my motorcycle trailer and a 500-watt 120 volt Halogen yard work light I mounted on a staff that fastens to the ladder of my motorhome when we want to light up the whole campsite for group activities. Many RVers attach strings of festive lights to their awnings. These are usually more for decoration than illumination, yet can still provide a nice glow for your "patio party" and are available in a variety of shapes and colors. One of my favorites for general camping is a Christmas light like string of tiny lights shaped like Coleman lanterns. You might choose lighted chilis for a Mexican themed party or American flags for the 4th of July. The possibilities are endless. Ordinary Christmas lights could also be used. I suggest going for the new LED lights. They have bright colors, use little power, and don't get hot like incandescent bulbs, reducing the risk of scorching your awning or canopy -- or your fingers should you happen to touch one. Rope lights are also popular as awning lights. Plain white provides comfortable illumination and there are some fancy (but somewhat pricey) multi-colored version with multiple flash patterns and remote controls.
Work lights of various sorts may be needed. If you have a generator you might use an ordinary drop light, but there are LED, florescent and incandescent 12-volt work lights you can buy for use on battery power in and around your RV or other vehicle. Some use flashlight batteries and are completely portable; some plug into your 12 volt socket. A camping lantern can also be used for illuminating a general work area and an ordinary flashlight can be used in close quarters.
Chemical light sticks are good for markers to highlight obstacles or people and to provide some light for moving around. They usually aren't bright enough for reading or any serious activities, such as cooking, repairing equipment, or playing board or card games. I did find they were a good substitute for the burning sticks the kids liked to drag out of the fire and wave around. They lasted longer and eliminated the danger of someone or something getting accidentally set on fire! I tried attaching them to our "Desert Rat" signs at night to help guide latecomers to camp, but kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them. I keep one in my fanny pack (safely stored in a short piece of PVC pipe capped on both ends (but not glued). It may not provide a lot of light for emergency night time repairs on the trail, but it would be better than nothing and any kind of light can provide comfort if you're stuck out for very long. They can be used for signaling and may even help keep wild animals away. A light stick is usually adequate to light your way to the latrine at night too.
Strobe lights are sometimes used as markers to aid late arrivals in locating our OHV camps in the desert. The ones I've used for years are dome-shaped units with suction cups on the bottom and are wired to plug into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle on the outside of my motorcycle trailer. I've seen really fancy LED "starburst" lights designed for the top of a flagpole that would be even more visible from a distance. Of course you wouldn't want to use something that bright in a developed campground where it would annoy your fellow campers but it works well in the open desert where we usually have plenty of space between camps.
Natural light. Moonlight is often adequate for many camp activities when the moon is near full. I've seen it light enough during a full moon in the desert to even ride OHVs (cautiously) without needing headlights. During a new moon you'll need supplemental light sources, unless you and your companions have the eyes of a cat! For best results, avoid wiping out your night vision by exposing your eyes to bright lights inside your RV. When you first step out of a brightly lit RV into a moonlit night, you'll be nearly blind for several minutes until your eyes adapt to the darkness. If you do need temporary auxiliary light, try using a red filter on your flashlight. That will usually let you see what you need to see with minimal affect on night vision. A red flashlight would be useful for illuminating the firewood pile so you don't mess up your night vision. I find using red filters especially helpful when working with telescopes for star gazing. They provide sufficient light to assemble and adjust the optics and read star charts and don't trigger the restriction of the pupils like bright white does.
Firelight retains the ambiance of camping. For large gatherings, a big bonfire might be appropriate. For more intimate occasions, keep the fire small and add a few Tiki torches if you need more light. You can fuel the Tiki torches with citronella lamp oil to help keep the bugs away so they're especially good around the picnic table or other eating or sitting areas. Sometimes having several small fires is more effective and efficient than one big one.
Tent lighting. I strongly favor battery powered lights for use in tents and other small enclosed spaces. Any kind of flame-powered light includes the risk of setting the tent on fire and suffocation as the flame consumes available oxygen. If you MUST use your Coleman or kerosene lantern in a tent, exercise extreme caution and keep a couple of windows open an inch or two for cross ventilation. Just touching the hot glass globe to a tent wall or sleeping bag can melt it beyond repair, so be VERY careful using any kind of flame device inside a tent. The close quarters in most tents means you have to be careful not to touch the lantern globe. It becomes VERY hot and will blister your skin instantly. My favorite tent light is powered by a couple of AA batteries and includes a spot light and a general illumination flood light. An LED version would be ideal since the batteries will last longer.
Searchlights and spotlights can be helpful in locating a remote camp when boondocking and for searching for errant campers who may have wandered away from camp in the dark. Remote control searchlights mount on the roof of RVs and usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings so they can be used for general camp site lighting in "flood" mode or as a beacon or search light in "spot" mode (helpful finding signs). Though not as popular as they once were, spotlights that can be mounted on the windshield post of many vehicles can help locating signs and landmarks when searching for a remote camp at night. In a pinch you might use them to light up an area for after-dark equipment maintenance. Portable spotlights can also come in handy. I've seen them with ratings in the range of 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 candle power, having range up to a mile! I've seen some that used ordinary flashlight batteries, some that are 12-volt powered (connect to a 12-volt cigarette light style receptacle) and even some that are rechargeable.
Trail lighting. Many ATVs are equipped with headlights so night time operation is often viable. Dirt bikes (especially those designed for motocross), on the other hand, usually don't have headlights unless they are Enduro style bikes or have been modified. The magnetos on many dirt bikes are not designed to handle the demands of lighting so you may have to upgrade the electrical system if you plan to add lights. Baja Designs provides light kits for most off-road bikes. A friend of mine upgraded the electrics on his dirt bike and added a 55 watt halogen driving light as a headlight. Man, did that light up the trail! We called it the "bush burner". In an emergency I've seen guys tape flashlights to their handlebars, front fenders, or helmets, but the light pattern is very limited and most flashlights won't last long, especially given the constant bouncing and vibration to say nothing of the quick battery drain by incandescent bulbs. Unless they are LED flashlights they will drain the batteries pretty quickly, leaving you in the dark again. I picked up a specially designed helmet mounted light but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Chemical light sticks might be used to make the vehicle more visible but they won't provide enough light to see where you're going. Flashlights are very good options for night time hiking. You should have at least one on your person on any hike, just in case you are out after dark. In an emergency you might use duct tape or cable ties to secure a flashlight to the handlebars or front fender of your OHV for at least some lighting.
Emergency signaling. If you get lost or your OHV breaks down and you're stuck out on the trails after dark, it may be a good idea to just stay put if you can't see where you're going unless you are in immediate danger if you stay where you are. A flashlight or light stick can make you and your vehicle more visible to searchers or any other riders who may come along and you may be able to use them to flash an "S O S" (three short, three long, three short flashes). If you think you'll be stuck out for any length of time or all night, you may want to try to get a fire going. Fire will keep you warm, provide a visible signal for potential rescuers, and keep animals away. If you use fuel from your OHV to start the fire, make sure your OHV is far enough away from the fire to avoid lighting it up -- and make sure the fuel is shut off before moving your OHV! For a couple of examples of the consequences of failing to follow this advice, check out the movies "On Any Sunday" and On Any Sunday II". In "On Any Sunday" the rider manages to set his bike on fire because it is too close to his signal fire. In "On Any Sunday II" he carefully moves the bike a safe distance away before lighting his fire -- but he had disconnected the fuel line to soak the wood to make getting his fire going easier and forgot to shut it off, leaving a trail of fuel from the fire pit to his bike. He lights his fire, it snakes a long the trail and "Poof!" his bike once again goes up in flames. On the one hand, a burning bike, will probably make a very good signal, especially once the magnesium parts start burning. On the other hand, that's a pretty expensive signal fire! It may be kind of amusing to watch in the movie, but I doubt if any of us would be laughing if it happened to us. And once those magnesium parts start to burn you're going to have a heck of time putting out the fire without a Class D fire extinguisher.
Light it up!
Friday, September 2, 2011
Camping in a Recession
The recession of 2008 hit us all -- hard! And the RV and camping industry was no exception. RV dealers and manufacturers have been going out of business in record numbers. Many of the large, traditional makers of RVs have merged, reorganized, or significantly revamped their offerings due to a drop in demand. Campers have had to cut back on recreational purchases and activities. Many of us are taking fewer, shorter trips. But camping can still be one of the best values around. If you already own an RV or camping equipment, a weekend away or even a summer vacation can often be done for just the cost of the food and fuel -- and since you have to eat anyway, the only real additional cost is the fuel and even that is often at least partially offset by not commuting to work during your vacation. If you don't already have the equipment you want, you can probably find some real bargains while people are in the mood to downsize or have a need to convert luxury and recreational items into cash.
How has the recession affected YOUR camping experience? I think it is safe to say that most of us have had to cut back on recreational activities. Yet, RVing and camping still offer one of the best values for your money. If you already have an RV or camping equipment, you are in a position to take low-cost outings. If you don't already have the gear you'd like to have, there may never be a better time to buy it. Many people and stores are strapped and are forced to liquidate unnecessary and luxury items at bargain prices. Check out your local classified ads, garage sales, ebay, and craigslist. You can very likely acquire or improve your camping gear at pennies on the dollar. Camping in your RV or tent is still a very viable family activity.
If you normally patronize expensive, full-service campgrounds you may want to explore more economical options, such as county and state parks, Forest Service campgrounds, and boondocking on unimproved BLM or Forest Service lands to cut costs. With most RVs you don't really need full hookups to enjoy a weekend camping. And tent camping lends itself to just about any place you can pitch your tent. If taking your RV out is too expensive, you might explore tent camping again. Or you might want to look into downsizing, at least temporarily. You may find it less expensive to purchase a used travel trailer, tent trailer, or truck camper than to put your big motorhome back on the road. We have been exploring just that kind of situation. Our motorhome takes diesel-truck sized tires that cost somewhere north of $275 each and it needs six new tires! On top of that, the size it needs is obsolete and very hard to find. We picked up a used truck camper for $100! Sure, it lacks the space and luxury of our motorhome, but it gives us an economical means for some weekend getaways while we save up for tires, without giving up basic creature comforts. It also gives us the flexibility to visit smaller campgrounds and negotiate mountain roads where the big motorhome is prohibited so it will get long-term usage too.
Meals and provisions don't have to be expensive. After all, you have to eat if you stay home. You don't have to spend any more for meals in camp than you would spend at home. Y ou may have to forgo some of the treats you have become accustomed to taking along on your outings, but if you keep your meals simple, you might save enough to splurge on a few favorite snacks. Simple meals save time as well as money and may conserve cleaning supplies and reduce on board water usage. Hot dogs and hamburgers are probably not standard week night dinner fare at home, but in camp they are highly appropriate. They're inexpensive, easy to fix, and tasty.
Activities that we used to regularly enjoy may be out of our price range during the recession so some adjustments may have to be made. If you're heading out to ride your OHVs or personal watercraft, you may have to limit the length and number of OHV rides to conserve fuel and reduce costs. There are many fun activities you can substitute to fill some of the time. Horseshoes and lawn darts, badminton and volleyball, are all traditional campground favorites. Do a little hiking and explore the area around your favorite campground on foot. You may learn something useful about the trails you normally zip through on your OHV. Perhaps even organize an on-site service project to clean up around camp or do some trail maintenance. Might as well turn some of that down-time into productive time. You will probably be surprised just how much fun and how rewarding such activities can be! It doesn't have to be a major project. Clean out the fire pit at your campsite and haul away the non-combustible stuff people have left behind. Rock rings in primitive camping areas get broken down and often need renovation. They get filled with non-combustible trash, like cans, and batteries and broken glass. We once picked up about 10# of rusty nails around one fire pit where unthinking or uncaring campers had burned dozens of pallets. S ure glad those nails didn't end up in my RV or OHV tires!
Limit generator use to conserve fuel and save money. Do you REALLY need to run the air conditioner all day? Keep busy with outdoor activities. When you do have to use the generator it is always good practice anyway to try to combine activities that require running the generator, like waiting until your family is ready to watch TV to run your microwave or dry your hair so you're not running the generator for each individual task. Keep the window shades closed to prevent unwanted temperature differences and minimize opening the door. Use a spray bottle to spritz yourself to keep cool instead of relying on cooling your whole RV. If fuel is a serious concern you may have to sacrifice evening TV to save running the generator. There are lots of fun things to do outside on summer evenings -- impromptu astronomy lessons, watching wildlife, and good old-fashioned campfire get-togethers. Maybe take a moonlit nature walk and look for nocturnal animal activity.
Conserving vehicle fuel is one way to cut costs. Make sure your engine is properly tuned and your tires properly inflated. Then drive slower. You might be surprised how much better your gas mileage is at 55 mph than it is at 70 mph. Avoid driving in rush hour traffic. The stop-and-go uses a lot more fuel than cruising at a steady speed. Try to time your arrival at stop lights so you can keep moving. It takes lots of gas to bring a motorhome or truck and trailer up to speed again. If the traffic lights are properly timed you should be able to hit green lights regularly by traveling at the posted speed limit. But don't count on it. Some places deliberately time the lights to make you slow down or stop frequently, hoping you will notice and patronize local businesses or so they can catch you in an unscrupulous speed trap.
Take shorter trips. Look for destinations closer to home. You may be surprised at the opportunities for weekend get-a-ways that don't require driving long distances. Sure, those beautiful mountain campsites are really appealing, but a nicely shaded county campground closer to home might save you hours of driving and lots of gas and still be a fun getaway.
If it comes down to it, do a little back-yard or driveway camping. You stay in practice using your equipment and will keep things ready for "real" opportunities. You may want to put on an ocean sounds CD to simulate being at the beach, or a wind-song CD to emulate the wind in the trees at forest campground. Build a campfire in your backyard. Using your equipment, whether an RV or tent camping, lets you keep up with any needed cleaning or repairs and lets you get some use out of your investment! My grandfather used to say "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out" and I believe that applies to a lot of our equipment as well. Improper storage and infrequent use is likely to result in a nasty surprise the next time we do have an opportunity to use our equipment. Metal parts rust or corrode, fabrics fade and weaken, gaskets and seals deteriorate. Occasional use can keep things in working order and prevent premature failure. Sometimes I've felt like I wanted to "save" something for future use only to find it was worthless when the time came. How much better it would have been to have worn it out in the backyard than have to just throw it away without ever using it!
Take advantage of the slow economy to upgrade your equipment. You may find excellent deals on new and used items. Dealers may be overstocked at the end of the season. People who have lost their jobs or experience other financial setbacks may be pressured to sell off their RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment. Sad as that may be for them, it can be substantial savings for you, perhaps allowing you to obtain things that might not otherwise be in your budget. And meeting their fair asking price may help them more than you know. I know a guy who bought a 36' cabin cruiser and trailer for $500. It needed some engine work that he was able to do himself for about $75. Now THAT'S a bargain in anyone's book!
Keep on camping!
How has the recession affected YOUR camping experience? I think it is safe to say that most of us have had to cut back on recreational activities. Yet, RVing and camping still offer one of the best values for your money. If you already have an RV or camping equipment, you are in a position to take low-cost outings. If you don't already have the gear you'd like to have, there may never be a better time to buy it. Many people and stores are strapped and are forced to liquidate unnecessary and luxury items at bargain prices. Check out your local classified ads, garage sales, ebay, and craigslist. You can very likely acquire or improve your camping gear at pennies on the dollar. Camping in your RV or tent is still a very viable family activity.
If you normally patronize expensive, full-service campgrounds you may want to explore more economical options, such as county and state parks, Forest Service campgrounds, and boondocking on unimproved BLM or Forest Service lands to cut costs. With most RVs you don't really need full hookups to enjoy a weekend camping. And tent camping lends itself to just about any place you can pitch your tent. If taking your RV out is too expensive, you might explore tent camping again. Or you might want to look into downsizing, at least temporarily. You may find it less expensive to purchase a used travel trailer, tent trailer, or truck camper than to put your big motorhome back on the road. We have been exploring just that kind of situation. Our motorhome takes diesel-truck sized tires that cost somewhere north of $275 each and it needs six new tires! On top of that, the size it needs is obsolete and very hard to find. We picked up a used truck camper for $100! Sure, it lacks the space and luxury of our motorhome, but it gives us an economical means for some weekend getaways while we save up for tires, without giving up basic creature comforts. It also gives us the flexibility to visit smaller campgrounds and negotiate mountain roads where the big motorhome is prohibited so it will get long-term usage too.
Meals and provisions don't have to be expensive. After all, you have to eat if you stay home. You don't have to spend any more for meals in camp than you would spend at home. Y ou may have to forgo some of the treats you have become accustomed to taking along on your outings, but if you keep your meals simple, you might save enough to splurge on a few favorite snacks. Simple meals save time as well as money and may conserve cleaning supplies and reduce on board water usage. Hot dogs and hamburgers are probably not standard week night dinner fare at home, but in camp they are highly appropriate. They're inexpensive, easy to fix, and tasty.
Activities that we used to regularly enjoy may be out of our price range during the recession so some adjustments may have to be made. If you're heading out to ride your OHVs or personal watercraft, you may have to limit the length and number of OHV rides to conserve fuel and reduce costs. There are many fun activities you can substitute to fill some of the time. Horseshoes and lawn darts, badminton and volleyball, are all traditional campground favorites. Do a little hiking and explore the area around your favorite campground on foot. You may learn something useful about the trails you normally zip through on your OHV. Perhaps even organize an on-site service project to clean up around camp or do some trail maintenance. Might as well turn some of that down-time into productive time. You will probably be surprised just how much fun and how rewarding such activities can be! It doesn't have to be a major project. Clean out the fire pit at your campsite and haul away the non-combustible stuff people have left behind. Rock rings in primitive camping areas get broken down and often need renovation. They get filled with non-combustible trash, like cans, and batteries and broken glass. We once picked up about 10# of rusty nails around one fire pit where unthinking or uncaring campers had burned dozens of pallets. S ure glad those nails didn't end up in my RV or OHV tires!
Limit generator use to conserve fuel and save money. Do you REALLY need to run the air conditioner all day? Keep busy with outdoor activities. When you do have to use the generator it is always good practice anyway to try to combine activities that require running the generator, like waiting until your family is ready to watch TV to run your microwave or dry your hair so you're not running the generator for each individual task. Keep the window shades closed to prevent unwanted temperature differences and minimize opening the door. Use a spray bottle to spritz yourself to keep cool instead of relying on cooling your whole RV. If fuel is a serious concern you may have to sacrifice evening TV to save running the generator. There are lots of fun things to do outside on summer evenings -- impromptu astronomy lessons, watching wildlife, and good old-fashioned campfire get-togethers. Maybe take a moonlit nature walk and look for nocturnal animal activity.
Conserving vehicle fuel is one way to cut costs. Make sure your engine is properly tuned and your tires properly inflated. Then drive slower. You might be surprised how much better your gas mileage is at 55 mph than it is at 70 mph. Avoid driving in rush hour traffic. The stop-and-go uses a lot more fuel than cruising at a steady speed. Try to time your arrival at stop lights so you can keep moving. It takes lots of gas to bring a motorhome or truck and trailer up to speed again. If the traffic lights are properly timed you should be able to hit green lights regularly by traveling at the posted speed limit. But don't count on it. Some places deliberately time the lights to make you slow down or stop frequently, hoping you will notice and patronize local businesses or so they can catch you in an unscrupulous speed trap.
Take shorter trips. Look for destinations closer to home. You may be surprised at the opportunities for weekend get-a-ways that don't require driving long distances. Sure, those beautiful mountain campsites are really appealing, but a nicely shaded county campground closer to home might save you hours of driving and lots of gas and still be a fun getaway.
If it comes down to it, do a little back-yard or driveway camping. You stay in practice using your equipment and will keep things ready for "real" opportunities. You may want to put on an ocean sounds CD to simulate being at the beach, or a wind-song CD to emulate the wind in the trees at forest campground. Build a campfire in your backyard. Using your equipment, whether an RV or tent camping, lets you keep up with any needed cleaning or repairs and lets you get some use out of your investment! My grandfather used to say "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out" and I believe that applies to a lot of our equipment as well. Improper storage and infrequent use is likely to result in a nasty surprise the next time we do have an opportunity to use our equipment. Metal parts rust or corrode, fabrics fade and weaken, gaskets and seals deteriorate. Occasional use can keep things in working order and prevent premature failure. Sometimes I've felt like I wanted to "save" something for future use only to find it was worthless when the time came. How much better it would have been to have worn it out in the backyard than have to just throw it away without ever using it!
Take advantage of the slow economy to upgrade your equipment. You may find excellent deals on new and used items. Dealers may be overstocked at the end of the season. People who have lost their jobs or experience other financial setbacks may be pressured to sell off their RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment. Sad as that may be for them, it can be substantial savings for you, perhaps allowing you to obtain things that might not otherwise be in your budget. And meeting their fair asking price may help them more than you know. I know a guy who bought a 36' cabin cruiser and trailer for $500. It needed some engine work that he was able to do himself for about $75. Now THAT'S a bargain in anyone's book!
Keep on camping!
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Orphan RVs
What the heck is an "orphan RV?" Well, it is an RV that has no living parents -- that is, whose manufacturer has gone out of business. And in today's economy that is happening with frightening regularity! What does that mean to you? Orphan RVs can often be purchased at substantial savings. Many buyers are reluctant to purchase an "orphan" RV because they fear they will have trouble getting parts or service and that drives the price down. Which can make "orphans" an exceptional value to savvy buyers. While some cosmetic components may become difficult to obtain, most functional parts of an RV are provided by the same standard manufacturers across many brands. The chassis of a motorhome is seldom custom-made by the manufacturer. Most buy the chassis from companies like Workhorse (GM), Ford, Dodge, Spartan, Sprinter )Mercedes Benz) and Gillig. Even custom-made chassis use standard engines and transmissions like Ford, Cheverolet, Cummins, Caterpillar, and Allison. The axles, brakes, etc of trailers are also pretty much standard components. So, if your orphan motorhome or trailer has a mechanical problem, it is likely you can still get parts and service for many years to come.
The same thing applies to especially to appliances. Water heaters, furnaces, air conditioners, stoves, refrigerators, etc are usually standard brand names for which parts and service are readily available. The worst case is that you have an off-brand appliance you can't get parts for and have to replace it with a current model in a standard brand or find a good used unit from a salvaged RV. Most current water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators use an electronic control board. If that fails, there is something called a "Dinosaur board" that is a universal replacement for almost any type of RV appliance and any brand.
About those cosmetic components. Turns out many of the same exterior panels are used by many manufacturers so sidewall damage can often be readily repaired. Damage to custom-made front-end and rear-end caps and related trim could be more difficult. However, availability will probably be no worse than for many older brand name units and many of the fiberglass parts can be readily repaired by any competent auto body shop. Chances are, if you're an accident that is bad enough to totally destroy a front or rear cap, there will be a lot of other damage and the unit may be totaled. In some cases a entire new front or rear cap may be fabricated, but since it would probably involve building a custom jig, it will be quite expensive.
Resale values for orphans may be low. That works to your advantage when buying one. When it comes time to sell or trade, you probably won't have lost very much more value than you would from a non-orphaned unit over the same period of time -- unless your unit was orphaned after you bought it. If you bought it at a reduced price to start with, a good share of the "orphan devaluation" will have already taken place. If your RV becomes an orphan while you own it, don't despair! It is still as functional as it was when you bought it. You will probably want to drive it long enough to get your money out of it rather than dump it right away and take a big loss. After all, there was a good reason you bought it in the first place and that reason is probably still valid.
What if my current RV becomes an orphan? First of all, don't panic. It's new status isn't going to have any direct or immediate impact on its usability or functionality. If you panic and rush to get rid of it, you're very likely to lose more of your investment than is necessary. Your best bet is to continue to use it and keep it in as good a condition as you can. As a hedge against potential scarcity of parts you might want to start watching ebay and craiglist where you might be able to pick up some bargains from other, more panic-ed owners. I have even found it useful to obtain parts for my older, non-orphaned RVs so I have them on hand if I need them. That way I'm not forced to pay high prices for things if/when repairs do become urgent. Over the years I've found a few items I felt it was worth "hoarding". Sometimes it has paid off, sometimes I've ended up never needing my "treasures", but either way, I've never regretted my "investments". I once got a REALLY good deal on an complete electric step I've never used and probably never will, but I got it cheap and may yet find a use for it -- if not for myself, perhaps for one of my friends. I had planned to use it on my motorcycle trailer but it is far too big for the low ground clearance of the trailer. It may yet serve as an organ donor for parts if the step on my motorhome starts dying. (Addendum: I finally scrapped this monster when we moved, saving only the motor, which can be used on the electric steps on many different motorhomes).
Any way you cut it, there is little reason to be afraid of buying an "orphan" RV. S avvy buyers (and sometimes savvy sellers) will know that orphans can be just as reliable and serviceable as any other RV. I have personally owned orphan RVs and the orphan status has never been a problem, but I did get a good deal on them when I bought them and that added up to getting more RV for my money! It can actually be kind of fun owning an unusual RV. Sometimes they make a good subject for campfire conversation too. It can be fun owning something no one has seen before. Some extinct manufacturers are worthy of a little research to fuel your camp stories.
Adopt an orphan today.
The same thing applies to especially to appliances. Water heaters, furnaces, air conditioners, stoves, refrigerators, etc are usually standard brand names for which parts and service are readily available. The worst case is that you have an off-brand appliance you can't get parts for and have to replace it with a current model in a standard brand or find a good used unit from a salvaged RV. Most current water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators use an electronic control board. If that fails, there is something called a "Dinosaur board" that is a universal replacement for almost any type of RV appliance and any brand.
About those cosmetic components. Turns out many of the same exterior panels are used by many manufacturers so sidewall damage can often be readily repaired. Damage to custom-made front-end and rear-end caps and related trim could be more difficult. However, availability will probably be no worse than for many older brand name units and many of the fiberglass parts can be readily repaired by any competent auto body shop. Chances are, if you're an accident that is bad enough to totally destroy a front or rear cap, there will be a lot of other damage and the unit may be totaled. In some cases a entire new front or rear cap may be fabricated, but since it would probably involve building a custom jig, it will be quite expensive.
Resale values for orphans may be low. That works to your advantage when buying one. When it comes time to sell or trade, you probably won't have lost very much more value than you would from a non-orphaned unit over the same period of time -- unless your unit was orphaned after you bought it. If you bought it at a reduced price to start with, a good share of the "orphan devaluation" will have already taken place. If your RV becomes an orphan while you own it, don't despair! It is still as functional as it was when you bought it. You will probably want to drive it long enough to get your money out of it rather than dump it right away and take a big loss. After all, there was a good reason you bought it in the first place and that reason is probably still valid.
What if my current RV becomes an orphan? First of all, don't panic. It's new status isn't going to have any direct or immediate impact on its usability or functionality. If you panic and rush to get rid of it, you're very likely to lose more of your investment than is necessary. Your best bet is to continue to use it and keep it in as good a condition as you can. As a hedge against potential scarcity of parts you might want to start watching ebay and craiglist where you might be able to pick up some bargains from other, more panic-ed owners. I have even found it useful to obtain parts for my older, non-orphaned RVs so I have them on hand if I need them. That way I'm not forced to pay high prices for things if/when repairs do become urgent. Over the years I've found a few items I felt it was worth "hoarding". Sometimes it has paid off, sometimes I've ended up never needing my "treasures", but either way, I've never regretted my "investments". I once got a REALLY good deal on an complete electric step I've never used and probably never will, but I got it cheap and may yet find a use for it -- if not for myself, perhaps for one of my friends. I had planned to use it on my motorcycle trailer but it is far too big for the low ground clearance of the trailer. It may yet serve as an organ donor for parts if the step on my motorhome starts dying. (Addendum: I finally scrapped this monster when we moved, saving only the motor, which can be used on the electric steps on many different motorhomes).
Any way you cut it, there is little reason to be afraid of buying an "orphan" RV. S avvy buyers (and sometimes savvy sellers) will know that orphans can be just as reliable and serviceable as any other RV. I have personally owned orphan RVs and the orphan status has never been a problem, but I did get a good deal on them when I bought them and that added up to getting more RV for my money! It can actually be kind of fun owning an unusual RV. Sometimes they make a good subject for campfire conversation too. It can be fun owning something no one has seen before. Some extinct manufacturers are worthy of a little research to fuel your camp stories.
Adopt an orphan today.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Camp Kitchens
When we're camping we usually like to do a lot of our cooking outdoors, even when we camp in an RV and have brought an indoor kitchen with us. Some RVs now come with an optional outdoor kitchen. A lot of folks cook over the campfire, set up a BBQ, or use a camp stove outside instead of taking advantage of the home-like galleys in their RVs that compare favorably to their home kitchens. Cooking outside is especially advantageous in hot weather when it is good to minimize heating up the inside of your RV. It is also nice to take things with strong odors outside so they don't pollute the interior. The residual odors of yesterday's fish can be downright stomach turning after a day or two in a hot RV. I picked up a big Camp Chef stove I like to use outdoors. It has much larger burners than a typical Coleman camp stove and grill/griddle options that provide a near professional method for cooking hot cakes or hamburgers. It also has an optional "BBQ Box" that turns it into an ideal cooker for burgers etc along with the pair of grill/griddles that are great for pancakes and steaks.. Cooking outside helps keep the RV cooler and avoids the accumulation of odors in the furnishings. There is an increasing trend toward "outdoor" kitchens in new RVs. Although manufacturers are claiming these are a new innovation, in reality they are an adaptation and re-creation of the kind of kitchen used by the teardrop trailers of yore, which in turn were based on chuck wagons. Some RVs now offer optional outdoor kitchens ranging from a BBQ or a sink and fridge that slide out from a curb-side storage compartment to full-wall units that include microwave ovens, refrigerators, sinks, counters, cabinets and even TVs. Some implementations are built in to the RV wall and you gain access by opening large doors that then serve as wind breaks. Some are on the curb side and others are on the rear (even more reminiscent of teardrop trailers). Some slide out perpendicular to the RV wall. A common feature is a swing-out or slide out BBQ tucked into a "basement" compartment. With many of these variations, you have everything you need to prepare and serve a meal and clean up in one convenient outdoor location, without having to constantly run in and out of your RV or overheat the interior.
RV galleys usually provide most of the conveniences of your home kitchen, albeit often on a reduced scale. You will want to organize your RV kitchen -- indoor or outdoor --- to make it as easy and convenient to use as possible. Keep frequently used items like utensils and spices within easy reach. Stock your RV kitchen with the items you find most useful and enjoy using. Not everyone needs the same pots and pans and your needs may vary from outing to outing. Basic items like a frying pan and various sizes of pots are pretty much standard equipment for any camp kitchen. If you plan to do any baking, make sure you have the appropriate baking pans on board. A small, hand-held electric mixer will usually suffice for most camp recipes and takes up little room. If you're tent camping, a hand-cranked mixer will do the trick. For RVs equipped with a built-in food processor base, acquiring the various attachments can add a lot of convenience. The basic unit usually includes a blender. Other typical options include a mixer, a can opener, an ice crusher, a juicer, and a knife sharpener. When using your RV kitchen be sure to provide plenty of ventilation. There should be a vent above the range but opening some windows and one or more roof vents for improved air flow will prevent a build-up of both stove exhausts and cooking fumes and odors. The limited space in the galleys of most RVs will restrict the number of people who can reasonably help in preparing meals, another reason outside cooking is popular.
Outdoor kitchens are by no means limited to fancy RVs. Pretty much by definition, if you are tent camping, your "kitchen" will be outdoors. Traditionally a tent camper's "kitchen" consists of a camp stove and an ice chest. A plastic dishpan or portable sink probably rounds out the features. That all works pretty well if you are in a developed campground with picnic tables where you can set up your "kitchen". But what if you are boondocking and there are no picnic tables? Well, of course you can bring your own folding table and you probably will want to for dining convenience. There are also a number of folding "camp kitchen" units available to help organize your outdoor kitchen. They are usually made of aluminum and collapse into a compact package 6" square or less. When opened up they provide a stand for your cooler, camp stove, cooking utensils, and sometimes even a little bit of counter space and maybe room for a dishpan or sink and a vertical pole for a lantern stand. Units like these are too large and too heavy for back packing, but for base camps and car camping, they provide a lot of convenience. They also make a good alternative for RVs that don't have outdoor kitchen facilities so you don't have to further heat up the inside of your RV cooking inside on hot days. The run the gambit from simple stands for your camp stove to more complete units like this deluxe Camp Kitchen at Cabelas.
You might build your own chuck box, patterned after old time chuck wagons. You can design it to fit in whatever available space you may have -- in your trailer, pickup bed, the back of an SUV or station wagon, or even to fit in the trunk of your car. Here is a sample build it yourself chuck box you might want to check out for some ideas. For more information, see my post on Chuck Boxes. Remember you'll have to load it into your vehicle and carry it to your camp site so don't make it too big! If you include a sink, use a separate water jug to keep down the weight of the box. Of course, if your chuck box is built in to your trailer, you don't have to worry as much about weight and can focus on convenience -- both for setting it up and using it.
Of course, you can always resort to more primitive methods, and that can be kind of fun. Re-discovering the techniques used by our ancestors can be interesting and educational. How did the American pioneers prepare their meals during long wagon-train trips across the plains? How did trappers and "mountain men" live for months and even years between trips to town? How do they make do during a "walkabout" in the Australian outback? How did the Aztecs, Incas, and American Indians handle routine household tasks without the modern conveniences we enjoy today? A little research on the Internet can answer many of these questions and give you some ideas for some interesting adventures. Learn how to cook meat and even bread on a stick over an open campfire. Try some "ash cakes". Swap your traditional Cheerios, cornflakes, or Fruit Loops for some old-fashioned corn meal mush. What facilities made up the "camp kitchen" of a wagon train or a cattle drive? Count on finding a lot of cast-iron cookware and perhaps a tripod among their preparations. Also count on finding easy, basic meals that can be quickly prepared with simple ingredients and limited resources. Like the cattle drive cook in the movie "Cityslickers" said about his grub: "It's hot, brown, and plenty of it!" Rustic camp furniture may not be as light weight and comfortable as today's camp chairs, but they were functional and, you might need to know about them if you find yourself in a survival situation. Need something to sit on? You can make a temporary camp stool from a couple of pieces of flat wood. Take one just a little shorter than from your knee to the ground. Stand it on end and balance another one, about a foot to a foot and a half long centered on top of it. With a little practice you can sit on this "one legged stool" quite comfortably. And even though you can't recline like you do in your favorite camp chair, it sure beats sitting the dirt or mud and is easier on your back and knees than squatting by your campfire to do your cooking or socializing.
Regardless of the type of camp kitchen you use, you want to make it convenient. Keep extra fuel handy, but safe from heat. Keep your pots and pans and utensils close to where you'll use them and well organized. Keep spices and flavorings within easy reach. Keep your fire supression materials where you can grab them quickly if needed. Keep your food preparation area clean and try to clean and put away items as you use them instead of piling them up to wash after dinner. Doing them as you go will make it a lot easier to find items if you need to reuse them and will significantly reduce clean-up time after dinner. Cleaning as you go also avoids stuff "baking on" to implements. For a simple example, consider fried eggs. If you wash your plate while the residue is still wet, it is easy to clean. If you wait until it has dried, it will take a LOT of scrubbing and/or soaking to remove it. Residue in pots and pans can be even worse. Simply filling a pot with water after the food has been removed but while it is still hot will go a long way toward making it easier to clean when the time comes.
Portable camp kitchens can make meal preparation and doing dishes a lot easier in camp. These are collapsible aluminum frameworks that hold your camp stove and usually have a place to hang cooking utensils. The larger and fanciers ones will also have a shelf for a cooler and perhaps even a plastic sink and some counter space. Some have little wire-rack shelves to hold spices and/or cleaning supplies. A camp kitchen frees your picnic table for eating and avoids getting it scorched by hot stoves or greasy from cooking spills. Click here for an example of a basic Coleman Camp Kitchen. There are links on the page so some of alternate versions too. While portable camp kitchens are mainly designed for tent campers, RVers could use them as outdoor kitchens too.
If you are a tent camper, keep your kitchen stuff organized in plastic tubs so it will be easy to use when you need. it. We got so used to having everything "including the kitchen sink" in our RV that I found myself quite unprepared when I took my boys on a dirt bike outing using just our enclosed motorcycle trailer. The next time out, I had stocked a couple of plastic bins with basic camp cooking gear. Not only did they make the occasional trailer-only outing easier, I used them on a number of tent trips with the Boy Scouts. I included things like plastic utensils, plastic plates, bowls, and cups, cooking and serving spoons, dish soap, dish clothes, dish towels, paper towels, napkins, can opener, kitchen knives, some basic pots and pans, and some common spices like salt and pepper. For added luxury I tossed in some envelopes of hot chocolate and spiced cider. If you expect any kind of bad weather during your outing, or if you just want to be prepared in case bad weather comes, set up your camp kitchen to protect you and your food if things do "go south". If you need to cook in the rain, you'll need a tarp high enough to allow smoke and fumes from your fire or stove to safely escape without harming the tarp and not be trapped where they will choke you and burn your eyes. A wind break might be in order too. DO NOT plan to cook in your tent! Cooking in your tent may cause a fire, could suffocate you and other occupants, and could infuse the fabric with odors that will make it nearly uninhabitable as they age. I suggest using separate tarps for your kitchen because they will get coated with cooking residue making them unsuitable for other uses.
Camp cookware. There are many options for camp cookware. If your budget is limited you can get by with bringing along some of your regular kitchen pots and pans. J ust be careful about putting lightweight aluminum pans in the fire or overheating them on the stove. I've seen aluminum cookware melted down into puddles in campfires. If you are in an RV or are primarily car camping where weight is not a major consideration, cast iron cookware is a traditional camp standard. It is durable and generally provides even heat. You aren't likely to damage it in even the hottest campfire. Cooking with cast iron takes some practice and remember you need to "season" it before you first use it or after it has been scrubbed. To season cast iron cookware, coat the cooking surface with oil (shortening, butter, lard, bacon grease) and heat it until the oil burns away. This will leave a "patina" on the surface that is necessary for proper cooking. There are many camp "mess kits" on the market. They are usually made of aluminum so be careful not to melt them. Good camp cook sets are made to "telescope" or "nest" inside each other to conserve space. Often the lid for the big pot doubles as a fry pan. Many camp cook sets include plastic plates, cups, and flatware, kind of an all in one meal time solution. These are a good choice when space and weight is a major factor. A good, old-fashioned coffee pot is a good way to heat water for beverages and other uses. I use an the old "speckle-ware" pot. Be sure you have heavy leather gloves or a good hot pad to handle it, 'cause the handle WILL get very hot! Thrift stores and garage sales are good places to look for inexpensive items to build or supplement your camp cookware so you don't have to risk losing or damaging your pots and pans from home and so you can keep your RV or camp kit fully stocked and ready to use.
Survival cookware. If you get lost or your OHV breaks down far from camp you may find yourself in survival mode and without any normal cookware. This is definitely an opportunity to get creative. You can cook meats and breads (assuming you have a way to obtain the ingredients) on a stick or on a flat rock. You may be able to heat water in a clay pot -- form clay or mud into a bowl shape, fill it with water, and drop in hot rocks from your fire until the water reaches the temperature you desire. If you have access to large leaves you may be able to use them to wrap meat or fish, and vegetables together to make a tasty stew. The best place to cook one of these packages is in the coals. If you try to cook it over open flames, you will probably dry out and burn the leaves and set the whole thing on fire long before the food inside gets cooked. See what resources you have available. In a survival situation you might remove the headlight "bucket" from your OHV and use it for a cooking pot. In survival mode you may have to forage for food. Learn what plants and animals inhabit the areas where you'll be going before you get there and be on the watch during normal activities for edible plants and animal signs so you'll be prepared if you find yourself in survival mode. Learn how to make simple traps (like rock deadfalls) from natural materials.
Outdoor cooking in bad weather presents some special challenges. Tempting as it might be, cooking in your tent or under your RV awning or dining fly is NOT a good idea. Y ou may have to hold an umbrella in one hand and cook with the other during rain -- or get a fellow camper to hold the umbrella for you. Sometimes in developed campgrounds there will be a canopy or pavilion you can use for protection. Rain or wind may make it difficult to keep your fire going at the right level long enough to prepare your meal. I've seen the time when it was so windy my gas BBQ would barely warm meat instead of cooking it! I added wind breaks before my next outing. If you rely on your campfire for cooking, plan ahead and try to schedule your cooking between squalls and keep plenty of dry firewood handy to keep your fire going. Wind can make things very difficult. Even gas-fired BBQs and camp stoves will need wind guards to remain effective and efficient. If you don't have wind guards to fit your stove, you may have to improvise using tarps and camp chairs to block the wind. Or have several people stand close together on the windward side to provide some shelter. I have seen creative campers stretch multiple tarps high over an entire campsite to protect a large group of people from the rain. There was room for a central campfire, cooking on camp stoves, and eating on picnic tables. They kept the cooking near one edge and had the tarp high enough that it didn't present a fire or smoke problem. With the tarp high enough in the middle and an adequate vent opening they were even able to safely maintain a modest fire without smoking everyone out. Fortunately there was enough breeze to carry the smoke away. Often it rises up and gets caught under any roof and curls back down to annoy campers. If you MUST cook under any kind of awning or tarp, make sure it is high enough over the fire or stove so it isn't scorched or melted by the heat and leave some kind of opening near the highest point to serve as a chimney for the smoke. Put your stove or BBQ near the edge of the awning, with the wind at your back (while facing out from under the awning) while you're cooking so smoke, fumes, and odors won't accumulate under the awning. Your shelter won't last long if it catches fire and then you'll be much worse off than when you started.
Have fun cooking out!
RV galleys usually provide most of the conveniences of your home kitchen, albeit often on a reduced scale. You will want to organize your RV kitchen -- indoor or outdoor --- to make it as easy and convenient to use as possible. Keep frequently used items like utensils and spices within easy reach. Stock your RV kitchen with the items you find most useful and enjoy using. Not everyone needs the same pots and pans and your needs may vary from outing to outing. Basic items like a frying pan and various sizes of pots are pretty much standard equipment for any camp kitchen. If you plan to do any baking, make sure you have the appropriate baking pans on board. A small, hand-held electric mixer will usually suffice for most camp recipes and takes up little room. If you're tent camping, a hand-cranked mixer will do the trick. For RVs equipped with a built-in food processor base, acquiring the various attachments can add a lot of convenience. The basic unit usually includes a blender. Other typical options include a mixer, a can opener, an ice crusher, a juicer, and a knife sharpener. When using your RV kitchen be sure to provide plenty of ventilation. There should be a vent above the range but opening some windows and one or more roof vents for improved air flow will prevent a build-up of both stove exhausts and cooking fumes and odors. The limited space in the galleys of most RVs will restrict the number of people who can reasonably help in preparing meals, another reason outside cooking is popular.
Outdoor kitchens are by no means limited to fancy RVs. Pretty much by definition, if you are tent camping, your "kitchen" will be outdoors. Traditionally a tent camper's "kitchen" consists of a camp stove and an ice chest. A plastic dishpan or portable sink probably rounds out the features. That all works pretty well if you are in a developed campground with picnic tables where you can set up your "kitchen". But what if you are boondocking and there are no picnic tables? Well, of course you can bring your own folding table and you probably will want to for dining convenience. There are also a number of folding "camp kitchen" units available to help organize your outdoor kitchen. They are usually made of aluminum and collapse into a compact package 6" square or less. When opened up they provide a stand for your cooler, camp stove, cooking utensils, and sometimes even a little bit of counter space and maybe room for a dishpan or sink and a vertical pole for a lantern stand. Units like these are too large and too heavy for back packing, but for base camps and car camping, they provide a lot of convenience. They also make a good alternative for RVs that don't have outdoor kitchen facilities so you don't have to further heat up the inside of your RV cooking inside on hot days. The run the gambit from simple stands for your camp stove to more complete units like this deluxe Camp Kitchen at Cabelas.
You might build your own chuck box, patterned after old time chuck wagons. You can design it to fit in whatever available space you may have -- in your trailer, pickup bed, the back of an SUV or station wagon, or even to fit in the trunk of your car. Here is a sample build it yourself chuck box you might want to check out for some ideas. For more information, see my post on Chuck Boxes. Remember you'll have to load it into your vehicle and carry it to your camp site so don't make it too big! If you include a sink, use a separate water jug to keep down the weight of the box. Of course, if your chuck box is built in to your trailer, you don't have to worry as much about weight and can focus on convenience -- both for setting it up and using it.
Of course, you can always resort to more primitive methods, and that can be kind of fun. Re-discovering the techniques used by our ancestors can be interesting and educational. How did the American pioneers prepare their meals during long wagon-train trips across the plains? How did trappers and "mountain men" live for months and even years between trips to town? How do they make do during a "walkabout" in the Australian outback? How did the Aztecs, Incas, and American Indians handle routine household tasks without the modern conveniences we enjoy today? A little research on the Internet can answer many of these questions and give you some ideas for some interesting adventures. Learn how to cook meat and even bread on a stick over an open campfire. Try some "ash cakes". Swap your traditional Cheerios, cornflakes, or Fruit Loops for some old-fashioned corn meal mush. What facilities made up the "camp kitchen" of a wagon train or a cattle drive? Count on finding a lot of cast-iron cookware and perhaps a tripod among their preparations. Also count on finding easy, basic meals that can be quickly prepared with simple ingredients and limited resources. Like the cattle drive cook in the movie "Cityslickers" said about his grub: "It's hot, brown, and plenty of it!" Rustic camp furniture may not be as light weight and comfortable as today's camp chairs, but they were functional and, you might need to know about them if you find yourself in a survival situation. Need something to sit on? You can make a temporary camp stool from a couple of pieces of flat wood. Take one just a little shorter than from your knee to the ground. Stand it on end and balance another one, about a foot to a foot and a half long centered on top of it. With a little practice you can sit on this "one legged stool" quite comfortably. And even though you can't recline like you do in your favorite camp chair, it sure beats sitting the dirt or mud and is easier on your back and knees than squatting by your campfire to do your cooking or socializing.
Regardless of the type of camp kitchen you use, you want to make it convenient. Keep extra fuel handy, but safe from heat. Keep your pots and pans and utensils close to where you'll use them and well organized. Keep spices and flavorings within easy reach. Keep your fire supression materials where you can grab them quickly if needed. Keep your food preparation area clean and try to clean and put away items as you use them instead of piling them up to wash after dinner. Doing them as you go will make it a lot easier to find items if you need to reuse them and will significantly reduce clean-up time after dinner. Cleaning as you go also avoids stuff "baking on" to implements. For a simple example, consider fried eggs. If you wash your plate while the residue is still wet, it is easy to clean. If you wait until it has dried, it will take a LOT of scrubbing and/or soaking to remove it. Residue in pots and pans can be even worse. Simply filling a pot with water after the food has been removed but while it is still hot will go a long way toward making it easier to clean when the time comes.
Portable camp kitchens can make meal preparation and doing dishes a lot easier in camp. These are collapsible aluminum frameworks that hold your camp stove and usually have a place to hang cooking utensils. The larger and fanciers ones will also have a shelf for a cooler and perhaps even a plastic sink and some counter space. Some have little wire-rack shelves to hold spices and/or cleaning supplies. A camp kitchen frees your picnic table for eating and avoids getting it scorched by hot stoves or greasy from cooking spills. Click here for an example of a basic Coleman Camp Kitchen. There are links on the page so some of alternate versions too. While portable camp kitchens are mainly designed for tent campers, RVers could use them as outdoor kitchens too.
If you are a tent camper, keep your kitchen stuff organized in plastic tubs so it will be easy to use when you need. it. We got so used to having everything "including the kitchen sink" in our RV that I found myself quite unprepared when I took my boys on a dirt bike outing using just our enclosed motorcycle trailer. The next time out, I had stocked a couple of plastic bins with basic camp cooking gear. Not only did they make the occasional trailer-only outing easier, I used them on a number of tent trips with the Boy Scouts. I included things like plastic utensils, plastic plates, bowls, and cups, cooking and serving spoons, dish soap, dish clothes, dish towels, paper towels, napkins, can opener, kitchen knives, some basic pots and pans, and some common spices like salt and pepper. For added luxury I tossed in some envelopes of hot chocolate and spiced cider. If you expect any kind of bad weather during your outing, or if you just want to be prepared in case bad weather comes, set up your camp kitchen to protect you and your food if things do "go south". If you need to cook in the rain, you'll need a tarp high enough to allow smoke and fumes from your fire or stove to safely escape without harming the tarp and not be trapped where they will choke you and burn your eyes. A wind break might be in order too. DO NOT plan to cook in your tent! Cooking in your tent may cause a fire, could suffocate you and other occupants, and could infuse the fabric with odors that will make it nearly uninhabitable as they age. I suggest using separate tarps for your kitchen because they will get coated with cooking residue making them unsuitable for other uses.
Camp cookware. There are many options for camp cookware. If your budget is limited you can get by with bringing along some of your regular kitchen pots and pans. J ust be careful about putting lightweight aluminum pans in the fire or overheating them on the stove. I've seen aluminum cookware melted down into puddles in campfires. If you are in an RV or are primarily car camping where weight is not a major consideration, cast iron cookware is a traditional camp standard. It is durable and generally provides even heat. You aren't likely to damage it in even the hottest campfire. Cooking with cast iron takes some practice and remember you need to "season" it before you first use it or after it has been scrubbed. To season cast iron cookware, coat the cooking surface with oil (shortening, butter, lard, bacon grease) and heat it until the oil burns away. This will leave a "patina" on the surface that is necessary for proper cooking. There are many camp "mess kits" on the market. They are usually made of aluminum so be careful not to melt them. Good camp cook sets are made to "telescope" or "nest" inside each other to conserve space. Often the lid for the big pot doubles as a fry pan. Many camp cook sets include plastic plates, cups, and flatware, kind of an all in one meal time solution. These are a good choice when space and weight is a major factor. A good, old-fashioned coffee pot is a good way to heat water for beverages and other uses. I use an the old "speckle-ware" pot. Be sure you have heavy leather gloves or a good hot pad to handle it, 'cause the handle WILL get very hot! Thrift stores and garage sales are good places to look for inexpensive items to build or supplement your camp cookware so you don't have to risk losing or damaging your pots and pans from home and so you can keep your RV or camp kit fully stocked and ready to use.
Survival cookware. If you get lost or your OHV breaks down far from camp you may find yourself in survival mode and without any normal cookware. This is definitely an opportunity to get creative. You can cook meats and breads (assuming you have a way to obtain the ingredients) on a stick or on a flat rock. You may be able to heat water in a clay pot -- form clay or mud into a bowl shape, fill it with water, and drop in hot rocks from your fire until the water reaches the temperature you desire. If you have access to large leaves you may be able to use them to wrap meat or fish, and vegetables together to make a tasty stew. The best place to cook one of these packages is in the coals. If you try to cook it over open flames, you will probably dry out and burn the leaves and set the whole thing on fire long before the food inside gets cooked. See what resources you have available. In a survival situation you might remove the headlight "bucket" from your OHV and use it for a cooking pot. In survival mode you may have to forage for food. Learn what plants and animals inhabit the areas where you'll be going before you get there and be on the watch during normal activities for edible plants and animal signs so you'll be prepared if you find yourself in survival mode. Learn how to make simple traps (like rock deadfalls) from natural materials.
Outdoor cooking in bad weather presents some special challenges. Tempting as it might be, cooking in your tent or under your RV awning or dining fly is NOT a good idea. Y ou may have to hold an umbrella in one hand and cook with the other during rain -- or get a fellow camper to hold the umbrella for you. Sometimes in developed campgrounds there will be a canopy or pavilion you can use for protection. Rain or wind may make it difficult to keep your fire going at the right level long enough to prepare your meal. I've seen the time when it was so windy my gas BBQ would barely warm meat instead of cooking it! I added wind breaks before my next outing. If you rely on your campfire for cooking, plan ahead and try to schedule your cooking between squalls and keep plenty of dry firewood handy to keep your fire going. Wind can make things very difficult. Even gas-fired BBQs and camp stoves will need wind guards to remain effective and efficient. If you don't have wind guards to fit your stove, you may have to improvise using tarps and camp chairs to block the wind. Or have several people stand close together on the windward side to provide some shelter. I have seen creative campers stretch multiple tarps high over an entire campsite to protect a large group of people from the rain. There was room for a central campfire, cooking on camp stoves, and eating on picnic tables. They kept the cooking near one edge and had the tarp high enough that it didn't present a fire or smoke problem. With the tarp high enough in the middle and an adequate vent opening they were even able to safely maintain a modest fire without smoking everyone out. Fortunately there was enough breeze to carry the smoke away. Often it rises up and gets caught under any roof and curls back down to annoy campers. If you MUST cook under any kind of awning or tarp, make sure it is high enough over the fire or stove so it isn't scorched or melted by the heat and leave some kind of opening near the highest point to serve as a chimney for the smoke. Put your stove or BBQ near the edge of the awning, with the wind at your back (while facing out from under the awning) while you're cooking so smoke, fumes, and odors won't accumulate under the awning. Your shelter won't last long if it catches fire and then you'll be much worse off than when you started.
Have fun cooking out!
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