Winterizing -- Its That Time Again

Winterizing your RV.  If you live in a cold climate you will need to either store your RV in a heated garage or winterize it before the cold weather sets in to prevent freeze damage.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sunshine belt you can probably skip this post for now.  If you choose, for whatever reason, not to winterize your RV, and you live in a cold climate, the consequences could be very expensive.  Temperatures below about 24°F for several days WILL create conditions that can seriously damage RV water systems.  Occasional nights below freezing but with warm day time temperatures may not require full winterizing, but it always better to be safe than sorry.  When I lived in southern California I seldom winterized my vehicles, even when I lived in Rosamond where we got occasional winter night time temps down into the lower 20s. It warmed up enough during the day to prevent the kind of solid freezing that damages plumbing.  It was nice being able to keep the RV ready to roll all year round.  When we moved to Utah I had dreams of building a heated garage, but keeping a big, steel building warm in Utah winters isn't very practical so I've had to resort to winterization.  With night time temperatures in the single digits and daytime highs below freezing, winterization was not optional.   In the process I've had my share of partial successes, resulting in some frozen components when I failed to properly winterize them.   If the damage is in an exposed bit of plumbing, it is an inconvenience and usually a minor expense to repair.  If it occurs inside walls or within the floor, it can be very time consuming and expensive to take care of.  Even frozen pipes under the kitchen sink are a real nuisance to reach.  Proper winterization will take time and require several gallons of RV antifreeze.  It is not a good idea to skimp on either the process or the antifreeze.

The fresh water system is one of the most vulnerable parts of your RV when it comes to freezing. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C).  When water turns to ice it expands.  That's a good thing for lakes 'cause the ice floats.  If it sank, it might never melt and the lake would eventually freeze solid!   Not good for fish or fishermen!  Expansion in confined spaces, like pipes and fixtures, can seriously damage those components.  Many a homeowner and RV owner has suffered the consequences of freezing temperatures on water pipes.   If freezing can rupture heavy galvanized pipe in homes (and it does!), just think what it can do to the comparatively flimsy plastic pipes, dump valves, and fixtures in your RV!  Freezing of fresh water tanks and holding tanks is also of concern, though the size and flexibility of the tanks allows more leeway than thin pipes where the heat is quickly lost and whose structural integrity can be easily destroyed by the expanding ice.   The dump valves and other entry and exterior plumbing are quite susceptible to freeze damage if water is left in them.    All water needs to be eliminated or replaced with RV antifreeze.

To winterize your fresh water system, first drain your fresh water tank then run the water pump and open each faucet until no water comes out.  For added safety, use a 'blow out plug' in the city water inlet to use compressed air to blow any remaining water out of the system.  Be sure to open all the faucets before applying the compressed air.  Leave the drain open until it stops dripping to be sure all the water is out.  You may need to elevate the RV on the side away from the drain to be sure it all comes out.  Drain the hot water heater.  To conserve antifreeze you may want to install a water heater bypass kit (if your RV isn't already equipped with one).  They aren't expensive (usually around $20) and fairly easy to install if you have access to the back of the water heater.  With antifreeze running about $4/gallon, they'll pay for themselves in saved antifreeze the first year.  This allows cold water to pass directly from the feed to the hot water distribution without having to fill the water heater.  It is also a good idea to blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air if you can.  You will need an adapter to screw into the city water connection to which you can attach your compressed air.  Next fill the system with RV/Marine antifreeze.  DO NOT use automotive antifreeze!   It is toxic. RV antifreeze is usually pink. automotive antifreeze is green or yellow.   If you have access to the 12 volt water pump you may be able to connect a hose from the inlet to draw antifreeze from the jug and pump it through the system.  If not,  add a gallon or so of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank.   If that isn't enough to allow your pump to deliver water to all the faucets you may have to continue adding antifreeze until it does pump through the system.  You can also buy manual pumps to pump antifreeze in through the city water connection.   Some winter windshield wiper fluids are also pink, so make sure you use ONLY designated RV/Marine antifreeze.  Then disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and run a line into a jug of antifreeze.  Turn the pump on and open one faucet or fixture at a time (don't forget the toilet) and let it run until the pink antifreeze comes out.  Make sure you have at least 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  Your fresh water system should now be safe down to the protection level indicated for the antifreeze you used.   If you can't get to the inlet side of the pump, dump about 5 gallons or so of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank until you can pump it through the lines and faucets.  Make sure the pink stuff comes out ALL the faucets, both hot and cold, and the toilet.   And, don't forget the outside shower if your RV is equipped with one.

Hot water heaters are also subject to freezing when left off (you don't want to waste propane heating water all winter!).   Many RVs have a bypass system so you don't have to fill the whole water heater with antifreeze to protect the hot water lines.  After turning the valves to bypass the water heater, drain the water heater completely.  If your RV doesn't have a hot water heater bypass, one can usually be added fair inexpensively, especially if you can do it yourself.  Then, when you pump antifreeze through lines, it will go through the hot water lines and faucets as well as the cold water lines so all the lines are protected without having to pump 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater.  Installing a bypass system is pretty easy if you have ready access to the back of the water heater.  You may need custom components if clearances are tight.  Off-the-shelf bypass kits may have fittings and valves that may not fit if clearances are close.

Holding tanks are also susceptible to freeze problems.  Most vulnerable are the dump valves, but the tanks themselves and other plumbing lines can also be ruptured if the contents freeze and expand. Completely drain the holding tanks and add a gallon of antifreeze to each one to protect the dump valves.  Most of the drain lines will be dry, except for the P-traps.  That is why you need a half cup or so of antifreeze in each drain, to fill the P-traps.   Chemicals and contaminates in sewage may lower the freeze point slightly in holding tanks, but unless the additives are antifreeze it probably won't protect them much below the normal freeze point of plain water (32°F) and plain water caught in P-traps would definitely be likely to freeze and damage the plumbing.

The water hoses you use to fill your fresh water tank and to rinse your sewer hoses both need to drained so they don't freeze and burst or take them out and store them in a heated area where they will be protected from freezing.   Some RVers carry multiple fresh water hoses to ensure they can reach the faucets in even the most inconveniently configured camp sites.  Some may also carry a standard garden hose for flushing the holding tanks.  Be sure you take care of all your hoses.

Anything with water in it will need to be drained or protected.   I have a water type fire extinguish in my motorcycle trailer that I have to drain, plus I have to empty our "Camelbak" hydration packs.   Check around your cabinets for where you might have squirreled away bottled water and soda and put it somewhere that it won't freeze.   Frozen soda cans burst when they freeze and when the stuff melts it leaves a really sticky mess.   Ice maker lines should be disconnected and drained.

Propane systems usually don't require any special winterizing for storage, but if you plan to use your RV during winter months you'll want to fill it with a winter blend.  Ordinary propane tends to gel in cold temperatures and then your stove, furnace, and refrigerator won't work.  The winter mix includes butane which has a different vaporization point and helps keep the fuel ready to use at lower temperatures.  I learned this the hard way.  I had a Class B van conversion that I took with me when I moved to Chicago from southern California.  I figured I could increase our driving comfort by lighting the furnace an hour or so before we were ready to drive the van.   I was really disappointed when I could not get anything to light!  It was about -20F outside and the propane was useless. When it warmed up in the spring, everything worked just fine.  If there is excess moisture in your propane system, it could freeze and damage regulators and gas lines.  There is no easy way to determine if there is excess moisture in the propane system.   For peace of mind, have a propane technician check the system.  They may add alcohol to help control moisture and reduce the chances of freezing.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

Coach batteries must be kept fully charged or removed and stored inside to prevent them from freezing.  An automatic battery charger or good converter with a multi-stage charger should maintain the charge for normal winter temperatures, but batteries should be stored in a non-freezing environment if you expect -- or encounter extreme cold.  Check the electrolyte level.  Low electrolyte will prevent the batteries from charging properly.

Automotive systems in your motorhome or tow vehicle also need to be winterized.  If you've been keeping up with your routine maintenance your coolant should already be at the proper mixture to protect the engine from freezing.  Check the protection level in your radiator using a hydrometer. Make sure you are protected well below the temperatures you expect to experience -- just in case you get an unexpected cold snap.  It is a very good idea to change the oil before storing your vehicle for the winter.   Used oil often contains acids and contaminates that can damage metal parts while in storage.  Don't forget the oil in your generator.  And make sure the battery is fully charged.  A low battery can freeze fairly easily, but a fully charged on will withstand much colder temperatures. A frozen battery may crack, spilling acid all over the place and causing serious and expensive damage as well as destroying the battery.  Removing the batteries on very cold nights is a nuisance, but not nearly as much of a nuisance as cleaning up spilled battery acid if they freeze and break!

Provisions you keep in your RV, including edibles, medicine, and sundries, may need to be removed and stored inside during freezing weather so they don't freeze and break their containers or destroy the contents -- or both!  You won't like the results of either consequence!  Broken containers can be very messy and frozen contents may present you with a nasty surprise when you go to use them next season.  And don't forget the contents of your outside storage compartments.  Some cleaning supplies you store there may need protection to avoid freezing too.

Protecting the exterior from winter weather is also important.   If you don't have a covered or enclosed storage area for your RV, consider investing in a good RV cover.  You'll see people using ordinary tarps and they provide some protection but they don't breath and the coarse surface can damage the finish on your RV.  Tarps are OK if they are set up as shield around and over the vehicle but can damage the paint if they are placed in contact with the surface.   Make sure your vehicle is clean before covering it.  Any dirt or debris is likely to damage the surface as the cover moves.   If your RV is stored outside, be sure to at least protect the tires.   The rubber tends to dry out and crack when the tires sit for long periods of time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight and ozone.  Vinyl tire coves are fairly inexpensive and easy to use.   Ordinary contractor trash bags wrapped around the tires will protect them from the sun.  Keeping the rain and snow of off your RV also prevents intrusion and accumulation of moisture that could then freeze and cause additional damage.   If you have to leave your RV outside when it snows, brush off the accumulation before it gets deep enough to overload the roof or the vents on the roof.  The best way to do this is to use a long-handled broom from a ladder alongside the RV. W alking around on a slippery RV roof, which is usually strewn with obstacles that could be hidden in the snow you could trip over, is a recipe for a nasty fall!   That ground is a long way down and likely to be frozen.  Definitely not someplace you want to land.

Using your RV in winter.  Most people don't use their RVs during freezing weather, but they can make a good base camp for skiing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling if they are properly prepared.   Just keeping your RV furnace set to keep YOU warm doesn't necessarily protect your water systems against freezing.  You may need a heater or heat tape to protect holding tanks, dump valves, and exposed pipes.  A 100-watt bulb inside an exterior compartment that contains exposed water system components may prevent them from freezing -- IF you have 120-volt power to run it all or most of the time.   You will want to seal any potential drafts around doors, windows, and cabinets and use foam insulation panels in the windows to prevent heat loss.  Make sure your furnace is in good condition and you have plenty of winterized fuel.  The propane used in warm climates will gel or freeze in cold weather, so try to use up your summer supply before the cold weather hits and refill your tank with a winter mixture.  If your furnace isn't large enough to meet the demands of your winter outings, explore adding a second furnace or a permanently installed or portable catalytic heater to add more warmth.  If you plan to do a lot of winter camping, it will be worth the investment in a second furnace or a permanently mounted catalytic heater.  If you only need it occasionally, you can probably get by using a "tent heater" for auxiliary heat.  With any catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation.  While they don't out out smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen and even seasoned campers have suffocated when they forgot to leave some windows open.  Electrical heaters are an easy remedy if you have shore power or a generator and plenty of fuel, at least for daytime use.  You don't want to run the generator at night so plan on other ways of keeping warm during "quiet hours".  Personal comfort can often be increased at little cost by adjusting your wardrobe.   Thermal underwear, warm socks, and sweaters are usually enough in an RV or even in a tent.  For sleeping comfort you may need a sleeping bag with a lower temperature rating or need to add some extra blankets, quilts, or comforters.  One trick I've found works really well is to open up an extra sleeping bag and use it to cover two people in their individual or shared bags.   The shared bag provides additional insulation and retains heat from both bodies immediately around the sleeping bags instead of letting it escape into the surrounding air and trying to heat and entire tent or RV.

Setting up your RV for winter use.  Some RVs come from the factory already set up for winter use. If yours didn't, there are some things you can do to make it more winter friendly.  Factory setups usually include enclosed and heated holding tank compartments that may be difficult or impossible to do as a retrofit. You may have to resort to heat pads and tape to warm exposed tanks and plumbing. Exterior compartments are often lacking insulation and you may be able to remedy that with rigid styrofoam or foam/foil insulation installed to line the compartments and compartment doors. Insulation alone won't keep exterior compartments warm.  You may need to add heat tape or just install a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb in each compartment.  You'll need shore or generator power to run the lights, but since incandescent bulbs are about 90% efficient as heaters and 10% efficient as lights, they'll usually do a pretty good job of keeping the damaging chill away.   Generous and consistent use of foam/foil panels in your RV windows will greatly improve heat retention and interior comfort and reduce propane consumption.  You may need snow tires or tire chains to fit your RV tires for safe winter travel.  I like to use an old foam sleeping pad to lie on when installing tire chains.   Not only is it more comfortable than lying on cold, wet pavement or gravel, it helps keep you up off the snow or wet ground.

When using park hookups in winter you will need to wrap your water hose AND the faucet with heat tape.  Leaving the hose attached will defeat the self-draining features of the frost-free faucets and both the hose and the plumbing may freeze -- and YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairs.  Heated fresh water hoses are convenient to use but somewhat expensive and you'll still need heat tape to protect the exposed pipe and faucet it is connected to.

Attention tent campers! Just because you don't have an RV doesn't mean you're off the hook for winterization. Your camp stoves and lanterns should be properly cleaned and stored.   Make sure your tent is clean and dry.  Loosen those tightly strapped sleeping bags so you don't destroy the loft.   Open them up and hang them freely if you can.  Go through your provisions and make sure anything that might freeze or leak is put somewhere safe.  If you have portable hot water system or a porta-potto, be sure to drain and winterize it.   Check your ice chests to be sure they have been emptied out.  Empty your canteens or hydration packs.  Then take advantage of the "indoor months" to inventory, inspect, repair, replace, or upgrade your gear as needed.

Keep cozy all winter!

RV Systems and Appliances

RVs have many systems and appliances that mimic their residential counterparts to some extent. They are a large part of the conveniences and comforts that make RVing attractive to so many of us. However, there are some differences between RV and residential systems you should be aware of. Knowing and respecting the differences can avoid frustration, poor experiences, and premature equipment failure.

RV Water systems are usually designed to approximate the comforts of home as closely as possible,but they have their limitations. The most basic system found in old time truck campers and small travel trailers had a single, manually operated faucet to deliver water to the sink from a jug or storage tank in the cabinet underneath. Waste water from the sink drained directly out through a pipe through the side of the camper and had to be collected in a bucket and carried away to be dumped.  More advanced RVs have pressurized or electrically powered water systems and hot water heaters that literally provide hot and cold running water at multiple fixtures throughout the unit at the twist of a faucet, pretty much like at home. Waste is usually collected in holding tanks so you don't have to think very much about it -- until it is time to dump the tanks.  With judicious use of water, these systems will provide performance near that which we expect at home. You probably won't have the pressure or flow you have at home, but it is usually adequate.   However, we do need to consider that our water supplies are limited when dry camping and ration water usage to make sure we have enough to last the entire trip. Don't waste water by letting it run when you're not actually using it.  Wet your hands, then turn off the water while you scrub.  Then turn it back on to rinse.  Same with the shower.  Letting it run while you're lathering up just turns precious fresh water into sewage for no reason.  Maintaining your fresh water system mostly consists of filling it before each trip. If it begins to develop a bad taste or bad odor it may need to be flushed and sanitized. There are additives you can put into your fresh water tank to help keep it fresh, but unless you fill it with contaminated water at some point, just rinsing it out and refilling it should usually be all that is necessary. Most city water supplies are already chlorinated so when you fill your fresh water tank from home or another city water source, it already contains some protection against bacteria. If you fill it from a private well with no chlorination you might want to add a little household bleach to sanitize it, but don't add too much! It shouldn't have a bleach odor at any of the fixtures. If it does, you've used too much. Drain and refill the tank. You don't need a lot of bleach to do the job. For example, the residue left in an empty gallon bleach container after it has been completely emptied is enough to protect all the water it can hold. That amounts to just a few drops per gallon. A few tablespoons of bleach, perhaps half a cup at most, should be enough for most RV fresh water tanks.  If you can taste or smell chlorine at any faucet or in your drinking water, you've used too much bleach.  You should only smell bleach at the faucets when you are sanitizing the system, not after you've flushed it and refilled it for use.

Most modern RVs have fresh water systems powered by a 12-volt water pump. The pump includes a pressure switch that automatically turns it off when there is no demand. Sometimes the frequent cycling of the pump can be annoying. An accumulator tank can reduce how often the pump has to run. This can extend pump life as well as reduce the annoying noise.  Not all pumps are compatible with accumulator tanks so check whether your's is before adding one. The water pump will also have an on/off switch. If you don't get water from your RV faucets, make sure the water pump is turned on. If the switch is on, check the fuse. Also make sure there is water in the tank. If the pump runs continuously but you don't get any water the tank is probably empty. If you get water at some fixtures but not others, the problem may be a clogged fixture. Many faucets have an external screen and flow control device mounted in the very end of the fixture. You can usually unscrew the end of the faucet and clean these to restore flow. If that doesn't work, check for kinked, flattened, or broken pipes or tubing. RV water pumps come in a variety of sizes and styles. If you add or replace your pump, make sure you get one that is rated for your application. Some pumps are designed to supply a single fixture. Larger RVs will have multi-fixture rated pumps designed to supply water to more than one fixture at once. I've tried several different styles of RV water pumps, ranging from single-fixture self-contained pumps to large pumps with external motors and belts. I have gotten the most satisfactory performance from multi-fixture Flojet diaphragm style pumps.  Typical RV water pumps deliver about 3 gallons per minute, enough for most activities but sometimes a little anemic for showers.  Some systems include an accumulation tank to reduce cycling the pump every time you open a faucet. Some pumps are not designed for use with an accumulation tank, so check the specs on yours before arbitrarily adding one. If you are using campground hook ups, make sure the faucet is turned on and the hose connecting your RV to the faucet isn't kinked or flattened. I've seen RVers park with a tire on their own water hose and then wonder why they aren't getting any water. Speaking of water hoses, use only those designated for use with potable water or drinking water and make sure they don't create a trip hazard between you RV and the faucet.  Roll out enough hose so it will lay flat between the faucet and the RV.  Roll up excess hose and store it under the RV.  This helps keep it out of the sun to prevent heating up the cold water as well as keeping it out of the way.  Some enterprising RVers even put their hose inside a soft-side cooler pouch to further protect it from unwanted heat.

Water filters will help ensure your water is clean and palatable.   You can use an inline filter when filling your fresh water tank or when connected to a campground faucet.  Some RVs have permanently installed water filters in the plumbing where water from both the city water inlet and the water pump have to pass through it before going to the fixtures.  In line filters are fairly inexpensive and easy to use but don't last very long and might not have the same ability to filter out contaminates (such as heavy metals) as larger filters.  The in line filters are usually about 2" in diameter and a little over a foot long, with hose connections on each end.  Connect the female fitting to the faucet and the then connect your potable water hose to the male fitting on the other end.  Water filters designed for RV use are available at RV supply stores like Camping World, but many people have had good luck (and spent less money) using residential filters from a home center or hardware store.  If you have a permanent filter on your RV, be sure to remember to drain it for winterization and to check and replace the cartridges as needed.  Some luxury motorhomes have very fancy filters with features like reverse osmosis that ensure REALLY pure water, but they tend to be rather expensive and take up valuable space.  You can use residential style filters in-line by adding appropriate hose fittings.  Because they are kind of large and bulky you may need to stand them a  crate to keep them from falling over.  This will allow you to have properly filtered water without the difficulty or expense of permanently installing the filters.  Sometimes there simply isn't any room to install permanent filters.

Pressurized water systems were used on many older travel trailers, truck campers, and even some motorhomes. The water tank on these units will be made of stainless steel instead of plastic. You fill them by attaching a garden hose like you would for a city water connection. As they fill the tank, the air in the tank is compressed and the system is pressurized and water will flow from the fixtures until the pressure fails. These systems are equipped with a Schrader valve (like a tire stem) where you can add pressure and some have auxilary air pumps to restore pressure between fill ups. In a pinch, you can attach a manual tire pump or air compressor (or gas station air hose) to the Schrader valve and add pressure. Don't over do it. You only need enough pressure to make the water flow. Over-filling can damage the plumbing.

City water hookups allow you to connect a potable water rated hose to a campground faucet. If the pressure and flow are adequate, you'll have residential quality water service in your RV. Kinks in the hose and debris in the filter-screen or aging and failing plumbing in the campground can seriously reduce performance. Always use a pressure regulator to protect your hose and your RV plumbing from unexpected high pressure surges.  Why do you need a "potable water rated" hose?  Ordinary garden hoses can leech a plastic taste into your water, especially when it is exposed to the heat of lying in the sun when no water is flowing.  Potable water hoses are usually white or light blue to make it easy to distinguish them from the garden hose you might use to flush your holding tanks.

Many RVs use polybutylene (PB) pipe for fresh water lines.  This a semi-rigid gray pipe that resembles plastic electrical conduit but is smaller and somewhat more flexible.  Generally it gives pretty good service and is even said to resist freezing but occasionally there may still be problems.  The most common source of leaks are the joints.  The pipe itself may be damaged by nails, screws, abrasion, vibration, or freezing.  The original connectors used for PB pipe are no longer manufactured, but certain PEX connectors can be used to replace leaking or damaged joints.  One of the easiest to use is the Flair-it brand of compression fittings.  Another alternative is a brass fitting called Sharkbytes.  Flair-it straight connectors might be used to repair damaged sections of PB pipe.  No matter what you use, proper preparation and installation is essential to ensure a leak free repair.  Start by carefully cutting away the damaged components.  There are specialized  cutting tools for PB that are similar to those for PVC pipe.  Lacking that you may be able to cut the pipe with a hacksaw.  In close quarters one of the cable saws designed for cutting PVC pipe might do the trick.  Make your cut as square as you can to ensure a leak-free repair.  Any time you're sawing through the pipe you will likely end up with ground up plastic inside and outside the pipe.  About the only way to get it out of the inside is to flush it out with water or blow it out with compressed air.  Residue on the outside should be wiped away before installing the new fitting.  Remove the nut from the fitting and side it onto the pipe, taking care to keep the open end where the threads are toward the place the fitting will be installed.  Press the fitting onto the pipe, then slide the nut in place and tighten it.  When the repair is complete, pressurize the line and look for any leaks.  Sometimes simply tightening the fitting a little more may take care of the problem, but be sure not to over-tighten the nut which may break or otherwise damage the connection. Some folks have had success using modern PEX piping for repairs.  For best results, look for special fittings that adapt PEX to PB.

Sanitation systems are the second component that allow us to have residential style fixtures in our RVs. Plumbing is similar to that in our homes, but the waste is captured in holding tanks. Water from sinks and sometimes the bath or shower goes into a gray water tank. Toilet waste goes into a black water tank. Sometimes the shower is also fed into the black water tank. This is done for two reasons: 1) increase the liquid in the black water tank to facilitate decomposition and dumping and 2) reduce filling the gray water tank. Residential systems are typically attached to city sewer lines (or septic tanks in rural areas) and we usually don't have to worry too much about over-filling them. RV holding tanks have very limited capacities and we definitely DO have to worry about over filling. An over filled gray water tank is an annoyance and inconvenience. An over filled black water tank is a serious problem, one that is VERY unpleasant and can create serious health hazards inside and outside your RV. Minimize holding tank usage whenever you can by taking advantage of fixed facilities in campgrounds and by limiting water use while dry camping. Black water tanks need to be regularly dumped and rinsed and treated with appropriate chemicals to keep them healthy. The chemicals help break down solid wastes and control odors. Gray water tanks usually only need to be dumped and thoroughly rinsed. However, over time an accumulation of food particles from washing dishes and from soap residue may cause odors in the gray water tank. If this happens, add some of the same holding tank chemicals you use for the black water tank to the gray water tank or buy special gray water treatment chemicals. It shouldn't take nearly as much as the black water tank to be effective.

Sewer system problems can be annoying and even unhealthy. Make sure your dump valves are completely closed and the cap is securely in place. Some dump valves hang down low behind the rear wheels and are sometimes subject to being damaged going in and out of driveways or by other obstacles you may encounter on rough or unpaved roads. Be aware of where your dump valves are and take care to avoid obstacles that might damage them. If you get some seepage through the dump valves you will need to replace the seals or the entire valves. You may notice drips from the capped dump port or you might not notice the problem until you remove the cap to dump the tanks. If the valves have been leaking, removing the cap can deliver a very unpleasant surprise, especially if it is the black water thank that was leaking! Always remove the cap slowly and carefully. Be sure the port is over the dump station sump or place a bucket or plastic dishpan under the port when removing the cap. Catching any spillage will avoid a messy clean up that you'll face if the crap flows onto the ground. Occasionally you may experience a minor drip from a loose connection on one of the sewer pipes. Sometimes the connections are secured by hose clamps and simply tightening the hose clamp may solve the problem. If there are no clamps or if tightening the clamps doesn't solve the problem you may need to have the problem diagnosed and repaired by a qualified RV technician. Any repairs beyond tightening clamps can only be done when the tanks are empty, so it is necessary to find a way to dump the tanks before attempting repairs. Faulty dump valves can usually be rebuilt or replaced by any fairly competent home mechanic. Replacing the seals solves most problems unless the valve body itself is cracked or the handle is broken. Broken components will require complete replacement of the valves. To replace the seals, remove and disassemble the valves. Remove the old seals and carefully clean the grooves in the valve before installing the new seals. Warming the new seals in hot water prior to installation may make it easier to fit and form them into place. Take care when reassembling the valves to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the new seals. More common than leaks are odor problems. Proper dumping and rinsing of holding tanks and use of appropriate chemicals will prevent most problems. If you smell sewer odors when driving with the windows open, try closing the windows. Sometimes air passing over the windows will create a partial vaccum inside the RV, drawing odors up through the toilet or the plumbing. Make sure you have a water seal in the toilet (keep the deep well of the toilet about half full). Another common source of odors from the gray water tank is a relief valve. If the odors are strongest inside a bathroom or kitchen cabinet, the relief valve is probably the source. It is supposed to be a one-way valve to allow air into the drains to avoid sucking all the water out of the P-traps. If the valve gets stuck open it can allow odors to waft back up into the unit. A stuck valve can sometimes be cleared by lightly tapping the valve body, but take care not to hit it too hard. It is made of plastic and if you crack it you'll have more than unpleasant odors to deal with. If light tapping doesn't solve the problem you may have to replace the valve. If you are familiar with PVC plumbing you should be able to cut out the old valve and plumb in a new one. If you aren't comfortable with how to do this, have it done by a qualified RV technician.

Full hookups in an RV park can be confusing to some people. New users often think they can simply hook up the sewer hoses and use the facilities as if they were at home. It doesn't work that way, especially in the black water system for the toilet. If the dump valves are left open, liquid drains away and solid wastes in either the gray or black water systems, can get left behind, creating deposits that affect performance and create foul odors. When using hookups, fill your tanks about 1/2 to 3/4 full before opening the valves and dumping them. That usually provides enough pressure and flow to flush out solid wastes as well as giving holding tank chemicals time to break them down.  It is especially important to keep the black water valve closed until the tank is about half full.  Otherwise the crap may pile up on the bottom of the tank and eventually clog the toilet!  Some people leave the gray water valve open, but it makes more sense to me to also leave it closed until to time to dump so it can flush the hose after dumping the black water tank.

You RV toilet looks a lot like the one at home, but there are significant differences. First, instead of a tank that stores 3-5 gallons of water for flushing, it flushes with water sprayed directly into the bowl from the fresh water supply. This saves a lot of water, but it sometimes means you need to take a little extra time to clean the bowl. Keep a toilet brush handy or even a stick you can use to wipe; use toilet paper on the stick to wipe down the surfaces. This simple task will help keep your toilet cleaner and odor free. An RV toilet is usually flushed by a foot pedal instead of a lever. The foot lever opens the door in the bottom of the toilet and activates the water flow. Press it all the way down to allow waste to drop into the holding tanks. You have to learn to balance conserving water with using enough so that solids don't build up under the toilet.  I suggest that, as a minimum, fill the hole in the bottom of the toilet before flushing any solids.  If you find you're getting build up below the toilet, use more water.   Holding it down part way will allow water to continue to flow after the door is closed so you can clean the bowl and leave a few inches of water in the well at the bottom to ensure a seal against holding tank odors. Cleaning the toilet can be done much as you would at home, but most RV toilets are made of plastic instead of china so avoid caustic cleaners and harsh cleansers. Soft-scrub cleansers, like BonAmi and Barkeepers Friend, are OK for stubborn stains, but don't rub too much. If you do you'll damage the surface and the stains will get worse over time. You might also try cleaning discolored toilets and toilet seats with a paste made from vinegar and soda.  The seal on the door in the bottom needs to be cleaned periodically too. Shut off the water supply (turn off the pump or shut off the faucet for the city water connection). Press the flushing pedal all the way down and carefully clean the seal. Some new toilets come with a specially designed brush. If you don't have one, an old toothbrush or grout brush can be used. I have seen people clean the groove in the seal using a bent coat hanger. If you have to resort to this method, make sure there are no sharp edges on the wire and be VERY careful not to damage the seal. Clean the edges of the sliding door as well and make sure there is no debris in the seal or on the door before you close/release the pedal. You may need a helper to turn on the water for you for rinsing before you release the pedal. If you don't have a helper, prepare ahead by bringing a bottle or pitcher of water to use for rinsing. The plastic lid on RV toilets are subject to fading and discoloration. Fellow RVers have offered a number of tips for keeping them looking good. Routine cleaning with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be a good preventative measure. For those that are too faded to be cleaned, you might restore the finish by painting the lid with vinyl plastic paint, available in hardware stores and home centers. Be sure to remove and previous waxes or other coatings and prepare the surface according the instructions on the can.  Cracked or broken lids and seats should be replaced although small fractures might sometimes be successfully repaired using plastic-solvent type glue, a process known as chemical welding.

Most RV water heaters function very much like residential heaters but are much smaller. Homes typically have one or more 50 gallon water heaters. Most RVs have single units with a capacity of 6 to 10 gallons.  There are also "on demand" heaters that can provide continuous hot water, but they are not typical.  Ordinary tank style heaters can be replaced with tankless, on demand heaters, but they are relatively expensive --at least 2 or 3 times the cost of a standard replacement heater.  Most all RV water heaters run on propane. Some have auxiliary electric heating elements to help reduce propane consumption when connected to shore power or running the generator. Some have instant water heaters that quickly heat water on demand instead of keeping a tank of water heated. Instant water heaters may run on propane or electricity. Two advantages of instant water heaters are 1) they only consume energy when there is a demand for hot water and 2) they can deliver a continuous supply of hot water as long as there is water and energy to run them. Some RVs use hot water from the engine to pre-heat the water in the hot water heater.  Its a really useful feature, but not often found.  The primary maintenance for tank style water heaters is to make sure the burner is clean and properly adjusted. The flame should be large and blue. If it sputters or is yellow, the burner needs to be cleaned and/or adjusted. Most RV water heaters have a sacrificial rod mounted on the inside of the drain plug. This rod is designed to absorb the chemical action that would corrode the tank. It should be checked periodically and replaced when 75% of the material is gone. The biggest difference between RV and home water heaters is capacity so you'll need to ration or limit hot water usage. Do NOT waste water, especially hot water, rinsing dishes. Wipe them off with paper towels or used paper napkins or old newspaper before washing. Don't waste water by letting it just run while washing your hands, brushing your teeth, or showering. Turn it on only when needed to get wet or to rinse off soap. Don't let it run while you are shampooing or scrubbing. One trick is to save water in a plastic dishpan while running the shower to get it warm and use that for other tasks, such as rinsing dishes. Some innovative motorhome manufacturers connect the heater hoses from the engine to pre-warm the hot water tank during travel. Kind of a clever idea. You pretty much always have hot water on the road and when you arrive at camp -- and at no additional energy cost!  If you live where you get freezing weather, a water heater bypass system will simplify winterization and save 6-10 gallons of antifreeze.  Just remember to turn the valves back to normal before you try to use the water heater again next spring.  You could damage the water heater if you turn it on when it is empty.

RV stoves may or may not include an oven. They work very much like residential gas stoves only smaller.  They may have from 1 to 4 burners.   Some have electronic ignition systems but many have to be lit with a match or lighter. Light your match or lighter first and then hold it near the burner while turning on the gas. Turning on the gas first may release excess gas into the living space, resulting in an explosion when you attempt to light the stove. Some RV cook tops keep a pilot light going after you shut off the burner so you can restart the burner without needing a match or lighter. If yours has pilot lights, make sure the pilot lights are out before filling the gas or propane tank.  RV ovens are smaller than the ones at home and usually lack the timers often found on residential ovens. Keep the size in mind when purchasing your Thanksgiving turkey to make sure it will fit! Maintenance mostly consists of cleaning the stove top, burners, and oven. The oven can be cleaned with ordinary household oven cleaner. Use an all-purpose household cleaner on the stove top. If you have stubborn deposits, be careful not to damage the surface by rubbing too hard with steel wool or plastic scrubbers. "0000" steel wool works pretty well on stainless steel if used carefully but can easily damage painted or porcelain surfaces. Better to apply a strong cleaner and let it soak for a while. Make sure all the openings around the burner are kept clean. Clogged openings will significantly reduce burner function and efficiency. Not only will this increase cooking times and gas consumption, it may create unhealthy fumes. By the way, you may have heard you can clean and polish stainless steel appliances with vegetable oil.  Don't do it!  It may leave nice shine when you put it on but it soon becomes a rancid residue that will be difficult to remove.  If someone in your household has already done this, it will take a strong kitchen degreaser and a lot of elbow grease to get back down to the native shine.  I picked up some all purpose wipes at my local dollar store that also worked pretty well, but it still takes a lot of elbow grease to get that crap off.

Microwave/convection ovens are quite popular in modern RVs. In most cases they are essentially the same as residential units, but may be smaller than the one you're used to at home. They require 120-volt AC power so you need to be connected to shore power or have your generator running or have an inverter and a massive battery bank to use them. Maintenance consists mostly of keeping them clean, same as at home. They will NOT function well on low voltage, which is often a common problem in older campgrounds or if the on board generator isn't adjusted properly. They may not function properly on cheap inverters that use "modified sine wave" power. Units designed for RV use will generally last longer than residential units installed in RVs. They are usually designed to withstand vibration and power fluctuations common in RVs better than residential models. Some microwaves come with special RV installation kits that make them more suitable.  The installation kits usually include baffles to help vent heat properly and a facia that both holds the oven in place and give it a nice, finished appearance.

RV refrigerators are usually gas absorption models. They operate differently from home models that typically use electrically powered compressors to power the cooling units. You may find it curious that your RV refrigerator is actually cooled by a flame! Unlike a compressor driven system, it has no moving parts. If you really want to know how that works, look up "absorption refrigeration" on Google or Yahoo.   Some large luxury motorhomes these days use a regular residential refrigerator.  That means you have to be connected to park power or running your generator to use them, unless you they run off of an inverter backed up by a HUGE battery bank.  Your RV fridge should function pretty much like the one at home to make ice, keep frozen foods frozen, and keep perishable foods at a safe temperature. To take best advantage of your RV fridge and avoid things inside it getting too warm, limit opening the door(s) as much as possible. There are cooling fans that can be added to increase the efficiency of the outside coils and fans to help circulate air inside the unit. I like using a solar-powered outside fan since it doesn't draw any battery power. You can buy replacement roof vents for most refrigerators that include a solar powered exhaust fan.  There are also battery-powered fans (brand name Fridge-Mate) to circulate the air inside the fridge. These are available both as self-contained units powered by a couple of "D" batteries and as hard-wired units that connect to your RV's 12-volt power supply. Don't over-pack your fridge. If things are too tightly packed, the air cannot circulate and you will have hot and cold spots -- some items in the fridge may freeze while others spoil. Just like your hot water heater, the burner assembly needs to be kept clean and properly adjusted. The burner assembly is accessed through an exterior panel behind the refrigerator. Most modern RV refrigerators have electronic ignitions controlled by a computer board. Older models may have a pilot light that must be manually ignited. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when lighting pilot lights. Failing to do so can result in fire and/or explosion. My father-in-law lost his eyebrows and his enthusiasm for camping when he tried re-lighting a pilot light too quickly.  If you find your fridge isn't keeping things cold enough check the temperature setting knob and turn it to a colder setting.  If there is a lot of frost buildup you'll need to defrost the unit to improve efficiency.  Minimize opening the door and let hot foods cool before you put them inside.  Poor performance and excessive frost build up may indicate a bad door seal.  Close a one dollar bill or similar paper in the door at various places all around.  If it falls out or comes out without any resistance, the seal may be faulty.  You should be able to feel a little resistance when you try to pull it out if the seal is closing correctly.  Replacement seals are available for most RV refrigerators.

Defrosting your RV refrigerator. Most RV refrigerators are not frost free and will need defrosting periodically, especially at the end of a trip when you store your RV again. How quickly frost develops depends on several factors, including humidity, how much high moisture food you put in it, and how often the door is opened and for how long. Avoid opening the door or keeping it open when you can. That will reduce frost in the freezer and preserve the temperature in the refrigerator cabinet for better performance too. If the frost in the freezer compartment gets to be 1/4" deep or thicker, you need to defrost it to ensure proper performance. NEVER use sharp tools to scrape away the frost. You can puncture the cooling lines. If you smell ammonia, you have a leak in the cooling system. That will probably require having the entire cooling system replaced. Don't use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the frost in your freezer compartment. It can melt plastic and even warp metal parts. Allow it to defrost gradually. Check for frost often and won't wait until it gets much beyond 1/4" before defrosting. The task will be faster and easier and your fridge will work better. Keep an eye on the "run off" as the frost melts. It should be caught in a tray beneath the freezer compartment. If it overflows, you're going to have a mess!  If you need to accelerate melting, place a pan of warm water in the freezer compartment.

RV Furnaces operate pretty much the same as your home furnace but they are limited by availability of both propane and 12-volt electric power. Most modern RV furnaces have electronic ignition systems so all you have to do is turn on the switch and set the thermostat. Some older units have pilot lights you have to light manually. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when lighting pilot lights. My father-in-law burned off his eye brows when trying to light the furnace in an older motorhome when he became impatient and tried re-lighting too soon instead of waiting the recommended 5 minutes between attempts. Fortunately his eyebrows and his ego were the only casualties of his experience. Others have not been so lucky and have lost their RVs and even their lives. Some older units may be "convection" furnaces that don't have 12-volt fans. They don't distribute the heat as effectively but they don't run your batteries down either. RV furnaces require little routine maintenance. Make sure all the vents are kept clear -- outside vents supply air to the burner and allow the hot byproducts of combustion to escape. Inside vents deliver warm air throughout the RV. Any blocked vent can have a negative effect on both furnace efficiency, performance, and safety. If you wake up in the middle of the night and your furnace fan is running constantly but blowing cold air, you may have run out of propane or, interestingly enough, your batteries may be low. When the batteries get low, the electronic controls don't work right and the fan will continue to run after the burner has shut off and further deplete your batteries. If this happens on a regular basis you need to upgrade your battery bank, reduce your furnace use, or add some auxiliary heat.

RV Air conditioning systems may include both dash and roof A/C units. Dash air in a motorhome (or tow vehicle) is the same as that in your car and runs off the vehicle engine. Dash air in a motorhome provides comfort for the driver and copilot while on the road but is not enough to cool the entire coach. Roof A/C units run off 120-volt electric power, from campgrounds or your on board generator. Traditionally these blow cold air directly into the coach interior through adjustable vents on the inside face plate of the unit. More recently, ducted versions have come into usage that direct the cold air more efficiently to various parts of the RV. No matter which style you have, you will want to minimize the load to conserve energy and maximize comfort. Keep doors and windows closed. Keep drapes, curtains, or shades closed. Use reflective foam insulation to cover windows and windshields to keep out heat and sunlight. A/C maintenance mainly consists of cleaning the inside filters (most units have an easily accessible foam pad behind the vents) and keeping the outside condenser fins (looks like a silver radiator) clean and straight. Bent or dirty fins can restrict airflow and decrease efficiency and performance. Some older units have motor bearings that need to be oiled but most modern systems have sealed bearings. You can run your generator and use your roof A/C while traveling to maintain comfort on the road.

An alternative to air conditioning sometimes found in RVs is an evaporative cooler.   They are lighter than 120-volt A/C units and run solely on 12-volt power -- plus water.  Be aware they don't work well in high humidity or when the outside temperature is below about 85°F.  The water reservoir in some models is subject to spilling over during sharp turns and dousing the occupants.  If that happens about all out can do is turn off the water supply and drain the reservoir so it is empty while traveling -- and forgo the cooling.

12-volt electrical systems power most of the lights and appliances inside your RV. Your furnace fan and water pump both run on 12-volt electric power. This power comes from three sources: your RV automotive alternator, 12-volt batteries, or via the converter from 120-volt power via your shore cable or your RV generator. One other option is solar panels.  Motorhomes are usually set up with two battery systems: one for starting the vehicle engine and a second bank of one or more batteries to power the coach. Both sets of batteries are charged by the vehicle alternator when the engine is running. The house batteries in a travel trailer may be charged by the vehicle alternator if the trailer connection is wired for it. If you have a trailer and/or tow vehicle without this feature, it can be added at a modest cost. Anytime you have two battery systems there should be a battery isolator to allow the vehicle alternator to charge both systems but to prevent the coach from drawing down the starting battery. I have seen motorhomes with three or more batteries: a vehicle starting battery (or battery bank), a generator starting battery, and a coach battery bank, but most have just two: vehicle and coach. A nice feature is an "Emergency Start" switch that temporarily connects both systems together. This can be used to start the generator if the coach batteries are too discharged to do it or to start the engine if the starting battery is weak. When you have multiple battery banks you should have  a battery isolator to keep the battery banks from scavenging power from each other but still allowing all batteries to be charged by the vehicle alternator.  The battery isolator allows current to flow from the alternator to all the batteries, but keeps the load for each battery bank separate so you don't run down your starting battery using 12-volt lights and appliances in your coach.  Maintenance of your 12-volt system will focus on keeping the batteries and connections in good condition and fully charged. See my previous post on Battery Maintenance for particulars. There will usually be one or more 12 volt outlets where you can plug in fans, phone chargers, and other accessories. If you don't have any, or they are not conveniently located, you can usually add them as needed.

120-volt electric systems power a variety of things in our RVs. 120-volt power comes from your shore power cord when hookups are available or from your on board generator when boondocking or on the road. Roof A/C systems are the primary system that runs directly on 120-volt power. 120-volt power also feeds the converter that converts it to 12-volt power to run lights, etc. Most converters also have a battery charger circuit that helps recharge RV batteries, but these chargers are not usually very powerful or efficient. It is often better to buy an automatic automotive style charger and set it up to charge your batteries whenever you have 120-volt power available. Some advanced converters and inverters have good multi-stage chargers that do a much better job of re-charging and maintaining batteries. A third source of limited 120-volt power is the inverter. This a device that converts 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power. There are small, portable inverters that plug into a 12-volt, cigarette lighter type receptacle, and if they are of an appropriate capacity and the vehicle wiring is adequate can power radios, computers, etc. Larger units, up to say, 2000 watts, are permanently mounted in some RVs and can power larger 120-volt equipment and appliances. Just remember they are drawing down your batteries, so unless you have a HUGE house battery bank, you can run your batteries down rather quickly using inverter power. I would definitely NOT recommend using inverter power to run 120-volt lights. It would be very inefficient. It is handy to run a can opener, blender, or hand mixer for a short time, when you don't want to or can't run your generator. TVs and other entertainment systems usually draw too much power for it to be practical to run them off an inverter for extended periods unless your battery bank was specifically designed to meet that kind of power demand but they can be handy for short periods of use. If your motorhome or trailer is not equipped with an on-board generator there are portable generators you can purchase, if you have room to transport them. One possible advantage to a portable unit over an on-board generator may be the ability to move the generator some distance from the coach to reduce noise and exhaust pollution inside. Just make sure you aren't intruding into someone else's space!

Some large luxury RVs have even more residential style appointments, such as dishwasher, trash compactors. ice makers,  washer/dryer setups, and refrigerators.  Usually the only special considerations are limited size and the need to keep an eye on consumption of resources (water and power).  There is a growing trend to using residential style electric refrigerators in large luxury RVs.  These units are usually equipped with a large battery bank and a high watt inverter.  You may have trouble finding a place for enough batteries to retrofit an older RV for this option.

Entertainment systems could be as simple as an AM radio or as sophisticated as a complete home entertainment system. I upgraded the AM/FM radio in my truck camper to an AM/FM Stereo/Cassette player with built in equalizer. My Class A motorhome has two TVS, with external over-the-air and satellite antennas and a combo VCR/DVD player. It also has a port to attach cable TV if it is available in a commercial campground. Many high end motorhomes and trailers have home theater systems that rival anything you'd find in an upscale residence. Your main consideration in using entertainment systems will probably power consumption.  Satellite systems can be added to just about any RV.  The easiest and least expensive systems are portable systems that you set up outside when you arrive at your camp site.  Next are roof mounted antennas that you align once the RV is stationary.  For the ultimate in convenience and access, there are roof-mounted systems that automatically track the signal and can be used while traveling.  Of course, these fancy automated systems are quite a bit more expensive than the other options.  With any satellite antenna you'll need a receiver and a subscription to a satellite service like Dish Network or Direct TV.  It may be possible to temporarily move your home receiver to your RV, but it is a lot more convenient if you have a dedicated receiver in your RV.  You can usually get special "pay-as-you-go" accounts to use with your RV so you're not paying for your subscription all the time, even when you RV is sitting unused at home.

Backup cameras are found on some RVs, usually on large luxury motorhomes.   Modern systems may even include side mounted cameras that are automatically activated when the turn signals are used.  Backup cameras are essential on large diesel pushers that have no rear window but are great asset when backing just about any RV.  There are backup obstacle detection systems that use a technology similar to radar or sonar to detect obstacles and sound a warning.  Given the limited view behind most RVs, any kind of camera or warning system would be advantageous.  Modern technology even offers wireless cameras that don't require running a wire from the camera to the monitor, making installation very easy.  If you don't have one, it is a good idea to have a person act as a ground guide when you're backing up to prevent accidents.

Camping with full hookups will affect how you use your on board systems. Having shore power eliminates the need to run your generator and lets you use your lights and appliances without fear of running down your batteries. Being connected to city water means you don't have to run your 12-volt pump and that your water supply is more or less endless. Being connected to a sewer at an RV site makes sanitation easier, but you can't just hook up the hoses and forget about it. The black water tank should be allowed to fill about half way and then dumped. It isn't a bad idea to do the same with the gray water tank but it isn't as critical. If you leave the valves open, any liquids will drain away and leave solids to dry out and stick in your holding tank. So, even with full hookups, you will need to monitor holding tank usage.

Go ahead! Rough it easy!

Holding Tank Health

Self-contained RVs are able to mimic the conveniences of home , making use of on board systems to provide power, water, and sanitation. While problems with power or water can be a nuisance and inconvenience, problems with the sanitation system can wreak havoc with your environment and even your health, on top of being REALLY unpleasant!

Power, in electrical form is provided by batteries and generators (and sometimes solar panels) and requires minimal maintenance, but that little bit of maintenance is critical. Make sure all battery and generator connections are clean and tight and service the generator regularly per the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule. Most generators are equipped with a low oil shutoff to prevent serious damage from low lubrication.  Even so, you should check the oil before every outing and daily in camp and top it off if necessary.  Heating fuel for the furnace, hot water heater, and even the refrigerator normally comes from propane. The propane system normally only requires filling and checking for leaks. Occasionally you may have to replace a faulty regulator.

Fresh water comes from a fresh water tank and is delivered to fixtures throughout the RV by a 12-volt water pump. Fresh water tanks require minimal maintenance. Unless they have become contaminated from a polluted water source, all they normally require is an annual flushing with a mild chlorine bleach solution (about 1 cup per 60 gallons of water) and rinsing with water and baking soda. Other than that, about all you need to do is fill your tank with clean water before you leave home. Always use a potable water hoses to avoid getting a plastic taste and smell in your fresh water supply when filling your tank. Use this same type hose when filling fresh water tanks and when connecting to city water. Use an in-line pressure regulator between the hose and the faucet to prevent high city water pressure from blowing out the hose or damaging your RV plumbing when connecting your RV to city water. If your water pump fails during a trip you can probably get water for cooking, drinking, and basic sanitation by draining some out the spigot normally used to drain your fresh water tank for winterization.  If you run out of water, you're going to have to go get some.

Sanitation facilities are made possible by the presence of holding tanks to contain the waste products from sinks, bathtubs, showers, and toilets. Most RVs have two holding tanks: one for "gray" water, from sinks, bathtubs, and showers, and a second "black" water tank for toilet waste. Holding tanks are often a mystery to newcomers and the very thought of having to deal with them is repulsive to many people until they get used to it (and sometimes even after that!). The gray water tank, if regularly dumped and thoroughly flushed, usually requires no additional chemicals or cleaning unless you dump excessive solid food wastes or other unpleasant debris down the drain. The black water tank, on the other hand, requires fresh chemicals after each dumping and sometimes between dumpings, especially in hot weather. Some commonly used chemicals which are usually considered to be most effective, contain formaldehyde which some environmentally sensitive people find objectionable, especially if you dump into a residential septic tank, but there are "green" alternatives that rely on natural enzymes to breakdown waste and control odors. Regardless of which one you choose, take care to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Add the correct amount of chemicals for the size of your holding tank. Using too little results in foul odors and incomplete breakdown of solid wastes and subsequent problems dumping and flushing the holding tank. Using too much is a waste of costly chemicals and can even have a negative affect on the performance of the chemicals in the tank. Black water chemicals are usually added through the RV toilet. Dump the appropriate amount of chemicals (powder or liquid) into the toilet, then run enough water to fill the narrow well in the bottom of the toilet before flushing to drop the mixture into the holding tank. Read the directions on the container for the chemicals. Most experts will tell you to add water until there is about 1 1/2" in the bottom of the tank. This provides a medium to disolve the chemicals to begin their reaction and be able to breakdown solid wastes so they can be successfully flushed when the holding tanks are dumped. It also provides some water in the bottom of the tank to prevent solids from sticking and piling up under the toilet.  Leaving the black water tank dry is an invitation for disaster. In some RVs, the shower drains into the black water tank in order to provide additional water to facilitate proper chemical action and dumping. If you have this configuration you will want to be especially careful to avoid over-filling the black water tank, which could backup raw sewage into your shower! That could literally be a really crappy problem.  Those who do a lot of dry camping often forgo adding water after flushing, but this is an invitation to disaster.  Without sufficient water in the tank solids will stick to the bottom and will pile up below the toilet, sometimes enough to clog the toilet.  Tank chemicals won't be able to do their job which is controlling odors and breaking down the solids.  It may be really difficult to get good results the next time the tank is dumped.  If you do have a problem getting everything to flush out cleanly or if  the level sensors aren't working right, try dumping a bag of ice cubes into the tank through the toilet, fill the thank about 1/4 full, and drive around a bit so the ice can scour the inside of the tank. The cubes will loosen deposits on all the surfaces inside the tank.  Once it melts you can flush the tank as usual and this time everything should come out clean.

Overfilling of waste water holding tanks is an all too common problem, especially among new users.   Pretty much, if you ever do it, you won't do it again!  Overfilled holding tanks create backup in the drains and the toilet and can make the inside of your RV so foul smelling that it will be uninhabitable.  Most RVs with holding tanks have a monitor system that at least gives you some idea of how full the tanks are getting.  They usually display E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F.  Check the monitor often during each trip and compare usage to date to the number of days remaining.  If you hit 1/2 half way through a trip, you're probably doing OK but if you hit half on the first day of a multiple day trip, you're going to be in trouble before the trip is over You'll either have to severely restrict additional use or find someplace to dump the tanks.  You might make a little extra room in your gray water tanks by draining off a bucket or two to put out the fire each night.  DO NOT try this with the black water tank! Gray water usually doesn't contain enough contaminants to cause a problem but raw sewage dumped on a hot fire will create a really foul smell.

Foul odors. Besides the obvious size limitations (holding tanks always seem to fill up way too fast!), the most common complaint about holding tanks are foul odors. Foul odors are usually the result of improper maintenance -- incomplete dumping and flushing or the lack of sufficient chemicals. While traveling, odors from roof vents may be drawn into the RV or the partial vacuum created by open windows may draw odors up through drain pipes. Odors may also escape through an incompletely closed toilet valve. There are fancy 360 degree roof vents designed to disperse vent odors. Ordinary vents are simply a loosely fitting cap on top of the vent pipe from the holding tank. If you experience holding tank odors while on the road, close all the windows. That will usually eliminate odors from being sucked in through the drain pipes. If the odor seems especially strong inside a cabinet, like under the kitchen sink, the problem may be a faulty vacuum breaker. These are used to prevent all the water from being siphoned out of the P-traps on the drains. The water left in the P-trap normally prevents odors from wafting back up out of the holding tanks through the sink and shower drains. A faulty vacuum breaker may be either stuck open, allowing odors to escape or stuck shut, allowing water to be siphoned from the P-traps subsequently allowing odors to come up through the drain. If the odor is coming from the drain, you may be able to temporarily solve the problem and make your trip more pleasant by dumping about a cup of water down the drain to re-fill the P-trap. If the odor is strongest inside a cabinet, try to locate the vacuum breaker and tap it gently to get it unstuck. The housing is made of plastic, so don't bang on it too hard or you'll may damage the plumbing and create problems far worse than a bad smell. If you notice exceptionally foul odors coming from the toilet you probably have an inadequate amount of chemicals in the black water tank or the holding tank is full! Perhaps you didn't add enough chemicals after the last dumping and flushing -- or maybe you even forgot to add them at all. You often will need extra chemicals between trips to the dump station during heavy use in hot weather. If the tank is not full, try adding chemicals to the black water tank. If, when you look down into the tank through the toilet, you do not see any liquid, add water so the chemicals can begin to breakdown solid wastes. Rather than waste precious fresh water, put a bucket under the gray water dump valve and drain off some of that to transfer to the black water tank (dump it down the toilet). As previously mentioned, some RVs connect the shower to the black water tank to deliver extra fluid directly into the tank to aid breakdown and dumping and reduce filling of the gray water tank. With that in mind, you definitely want to avoid over-filling your black water tank since it can back up into the shower, creating an extremely nasty mess! Keep an eye on the level of your holding tanks and dump them BEFORE they backup and cause some really unpleasant situations inside your RV. Most RVs have gauges that show the holding tank levels. If you're doesn't or the gauges are not working (an all too common problem), try to monitor and limit your fresh water usage. If sewage splashes back up when you flush the toilet, your black water tank is getting dangerously full. The residue from even a gray water backup creates an ideal environment for molds to grow, creating additional bad smells and staining. So avoid backups and, if you do get one, make sure you clean up any overflow as quickly and thoroughly as possible. A solution of 10% ordinary household bleach and 90% water is an effective disinfectant on most hard surfaces, but be sure to test it on an obscure spot to be sure it won't cause permanent damage when using it on carpets, upholstery, curtains, paneling, or wallpaper.

Dumping and flushing holding tanks. The most important part of maintaining your holding tanks is also one of the simplest, but many new RVers are repulsed and intimidated by it. That is dumping and flushing the tanks. Anyone who has seen the movie "RV" with Robin Williams can appreciate their trepidations. The scene where Robin's character tries to dump the holding tanks of rented RV is an exaggerated and spectacular demonstration of what NOT to do and how unpleasant the consequences can be. By the way, it is highly unlikely you will ever encounter a fountain of waste on the scale seen in the movie, but improper procedures can easily result in shoes and pant legs soaked in sewage.  On the other hand, if done correctly, dumping the tanks is a fairly simple and sanitary process. Normal RV holding tanks are dumped via a 3" hose using only gravity to transfer the sewage from the holding tanks to the dump station.  As a starting point, you need the right dump hoses and fittings (in good condition) -- something the poor novice in the movie was sadly lacking (along with a total dearth of knowledge about the rented RV). Check your sewer dump hose before you leave home to make sure 1) you have one, 2) it is in good condition, and 3) is has all the necessary fittings to connect it to your dump valves and to the dump station inlet. Extend the hose so you know how long it is. That will let you know how close you must get to the dump station. If there are worn spots on the hose or, if when you run water through it, you see leaks, get a new one! The last thing you want to deal with is raw sewage spilling onto the ground or onto you! If it spills on the ground there is a good chance that sooner or later you will walk in it and track it into your RV.  The over-the-head sewage geyser in the movie is lot going to happen, but the pressure of sewage flowing through the dump hose could create nasty sprays through pinhole leaks in your dump hose. Spray could easily reach as high as the level of the sewage still in the tank, meaning it could usually go about waist high.  Make sure the hose is securely attached to the fitting that connects to the dump valves and connected properly to the dump valves. More than one poor RVer has gotten a nasty surprise when he opened the dump valves and the weight and force of the sewage charging into the hose separated it from the fitting. And, since by necessity, you must be in close proximity to the connector to open the dump valve, you are likely to be the unwilling and unhappy recipient of a large portion of the spillage. Yccch! If you have two holding tanks connected to a single dump connection, there should be separate valves, one each for the gray water and black water tanks. Open the black water valve first and leave the gray water valve closed until you have dumped and flushed the black water tank. If you have separate connections, dump the black water tank first, then dump the gray water tank. By always dumping the black water tank first the gray water will rinse most of the raw sewage from the black water tank out of the dump connection on your RV and the hose before you put it away. How can you tell which is which? The black water tank should always have 3" dump valve. The gray water might have a 1 1/2" valve. The black water tank is usually directly below the toilet. After dumping each tank, flush the tank with clear water before closing the dump valve. This is where having a holding tank flush system comes in handy. With one of those, you simply connect a garden hose to the flush system fitting on the side of the RV and turn on the water. Nozzles inside the tank rinse the tank. Lacking a flush system, you can flush the black water tank by sticking a special wand attached to a garden hose down through the toilet or just running water down the toilet with the flush pedal depressed. A wand works better than just a hose because it directs a concentrated spray around inside the tank to rinse the walls. Try to avoid aiming the wand so that sewage is blown back up through the toilet! You won't like the results. There are also sewer hose fittings that have back-flush features. This consists of a female hose fitting upstream from the sewer hose (near the connection to the RV) that lets you connect a garden hose to the fitting. The water is directed in a forceful spray back up inside the holding tank. Of all these options, the flush system is the cleanest and easiest to use and does the best job of rinsing the inside of your holding tanks. Regardless of the method you use to rinse the thanks, rinse each one until the water coming out the end of the sewer hose is clear. Dirty water from the gray water tank will be, well, gray or cloudy. Dirty water from the black water tank may be blue or green or brown, depending on the type and amount (or lack) of chemicals in the tank. Again, dump and rinse the black water tank first, then the gray water tank.That way the gray water flushes the nasty sewage from the black water tank out of your dump hose and deep into the drain.   Flush each tank when the contents have been dumped and before moving to another tank. This avoids contaminating your gray water tank with raw sewage or chemicals. If your RV does not have a flush system, one can usually be added. I've added them to several RVs myself. It is a fairly straight forward task, easily within the skills of a confident do-it-yourselfer if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the holding tanks. You need to drill a hole in the tank to install the flush nozzle and run a hose to a connector for a garden hose. The hole should be in about the middle of the tank, top to bottom and end to end. It is most effective if installed on the long side of a rectangular tank.  Not only will you need a place to install the nozzles, you will need room for the tools (drill, screwdrivers) to do the job.  The installation kit will include detailed instructions for proper installation. Pay close attention to the instructions to avoid unpleasant leaks. Do NOT use the same hose to flush your holding tanks and rinse your dump hose as you use to fill your fresh water tank. Yeah, its a nuisance to carry around two hose, but you run the risk of contaminating your fresh water hose if it is used to flush holding tanks and sewer hoses. Professional installation of the flush system is available at most RV dealers for a nominal charge. You should always flush your holding tanks at the end of your journey, just before you put your unit back into storage, even if it has been a short trip with minimal use. Of course, you many need to dump the tanks multiple times during extended outings as well. Dumping after a trip is a good time for a thorough cleaning. The sloshing around during transit will have loosened solid waste deposits so they can be be flushed out at the dump station. You sure don't want to leave sewage in your tanks while your unit is not being used or the next time you enter it you may feel like you need a gas mask -- and the odors will cling to carpets and upholstery for a very long time!  Residual solids left in the tank may dry and get too hard and too stuck to the tank to be flushed out if you don't get them out at the end of your trip.

If done correctly, your hands should never come in contact with any sewage, but it is still a VERY good idea to always wear disposable latex or nitrile gloves whenever you handle your sewer hose -- getting it out, checking it, using it, rinsing it, and putting it away. I leave my gloves on until after I've added the chemicals to the black water tank to avoid getting the chemicals on my hands too. Some people use re-usable household rubber gloves, but I prefer disposable gloves so the dirty gloves don't contaminate anything in my RV. If you use re-usable gloves, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before you put them away so you don't contaminate your hands handling the gloves next time.  Wash your hands thoroughly after you remove your gloves.  Keep a bottle of hand sanitizer handy when dumping your holding tanks.  You 'll feel better knowing your hands aren't contaminated.

What does a sewer hose look like?   Sewer hoses are 3" in diameter and should have a fitting on one end that attaches to the dump connection on the RV.  The hoses are usually blue, gray, or brown.  They are compressible so they don't take up extra space in storage.  They have a steel spring inside that keeps the shape and allows them to be compressed.  They look kind of like a Slinky that's been dipped in plastic.  They may or may not have a second fitting that goes into the dump station.  Anyone who does a lot of full hook-up camping will probably have fittings that accommodate various sized openings a the camp sites.  Folks who mostly dry camp often just stuff the end of the sewer hose itself into the dump station drain.  Some dump stations have a heavy metal lid that can be positioned to help hold the hose in place.  If you encounter one that doesn't look for a rock or brick to put on the hose -- or have someone keep one foot on it so it doesn't pop out when the initial surge of sewage comes through and doesn't work its way loose from vibration during dumping.  Obviously it is better to subject some inanimate object to possible spills than it would be to use a foot.  You can rinse spill off a rock pretty easily, but cleaning crap off your shoes, socks, and feet would be a rather unpleasant task and you may up just throwing away your socks and Reboks if you get a black water spill on them.

Some RVs have a macerator system that grinds up sewage and pumps it out through a 1" hose instead of the big 3" dump hose, but mostly you'll see 3"dump hoses for disposing of gray and black water.  The macerator systems have several advantages.  One, they grind up waste into small particles so it can be flushed out through a 1" line that can be run into a toilet instead of a dump station.  Just be very careful to keep the hose in the toilet and not let the toilet overflow!  Another advantage is they can pump waste uphill and over some distances while standard dumping procedures rely totally on gravity.  If you're using a macerator system it will probably take longer to dump your tanks through the little 1" hose than through the big 3" gravity dump hose.

So where is that darned sewer hose in the first place? There are a number of places it may be stored. Some units have 4" square rear bumpers where the hose is stored.  Just remove the end cap to pull out the hose.  Some have special compartments which are essentially a small door covering the end of a piece of pipe that extends under the RV or into a cabinet into which the hose is shoved for storage. In some units, the sewer hose is stored loose in the cabinet with the dump valves. In some, especially older units, there may not be a specific location designed to store the sewer hose and you may find it in just about any cabinet -- hopefully any previous owners or users have had the good sense to put it in an exterior cabinet and not under the kitchen sink or the bed! If your unit is lacking a convenient place to store the sewer hose, you may be able to add one using a length of large PVC or ABS pipe. Cement a cap on the far end and install a removable cap (threaded is best) on the end where you will access the hose. Attach the pipe to the bottom of your RV  or to the rear bumper using plumbers tape. On some units it may be more convenient to mount it on the rear bumper or between the bumper and the coach body.  In an ideal installation, the open end of the tube would be placed behind an appropriately sized door in the side of the RV near the dump station.  For the most convenience, the storage should be located near the dump valves. Once you have rinsed your sewer hose and put it away, rinse the concrete pad around the dump station to flush any spilled materials down into the drain. Some dump stations have a garden hose available for your use, but just in case, it is a good idea to carry your own. This is particularly true if you have a flush system, because many times, the male fitting will have been cut off the end of the dump station hose to prevent stupid people from connecting it to their city water inlets or using it to fill their water tanks and contaminating their water supply. I carry a green garden hose for use at the dump station so it never gets confused with the white, potable water hose I use to connect city water or to fill my fresh water tank. You don't want to be using a hose for fresh water that you previously shoved down inside a sewer hose to rinse it. The very thought is almost enough to make most people want to puke! And if just thinking about it doesn't do it, drinking contaminated water just may. I sure don't plan try it to find out!

When you are finished dumping, make sure your dump valves are closed tightly and locked in place and that the travel cap is securely re-installed on the end of the dump valve connector. You can be cited if your dump valves leak onto the roadway. Besides that, the nasty stuff splashing back up onto your rig may create a really unpleasant mess to clean up when you get home.  Dump valves have a lock-nut that screws down at the base of the handle to keep them from vibrating loose during transit. Thoroughly rinse your sewer hose and let the water drain out into the dump station before you put it away.  Make sure you've put away your personal garden hose and re-connected the one that belongs to the dump station. Check to see if you've left anything behind. Then, once you've added the chemicals to the black water tank, remove and discard your disposable gloves and wash your hands. You're done! If you've done it right, it wasn't all that bad a task. If you screwed up, chances are you will never make the same mistake again since the consequences are generally very unpleasant and embarrassing -- but it will make a good campfire story some time. Just don't share it at meal time!

Holding tanks leaks are, fortunately, fairly infrequent, but they do happen and can be very unpleasant and embarrassing. Leaks may occur do to impact damage, freezing, stress, vibration, or just plain age. The most frequent source of leaks is loose connections and they can usually be easily fixed by tightening the clamps or coating the joints with the appropriate sealant.  Other leaks where the tank or plumbing has been damaged will require patching or replacing the damaged components. Most RV sewer lines and holding tanks are black ABS plastic. ABS can be chemically welded to make repairs. Milky gray tanks are LDPE and are impervious to most solvents and may require thermal welding or replacement if they are damaged. See my separate post on Holding Tank Repairs for more information.  I once saw the holding tanks on a trailer fall out on the highway.  The reflected heat from the hot pavement on a very hot day had caused them to soften and sag enough under the weight of the waste inside to sag and collapse out of the frame rails that held them in place.  The subsequent repair included adding cross members beneath the tanks to prevent a re-occurrence.

Black water tanks may require extra chemicals during especially hot weather to control odors.  High temperatures may accelerate the development of odors and interfere with the effectiveness of holding tank treatments.  Even gray water tanks my get unusually smelly when its hot.  Gray water tanks usually don't need chemicals for odor control but you may want to keep some on hand if odors become a problem.  You can use a small amount of the same chemicals you use for your black water tank in the gray water tank, but there are also special gray water tank treatments that do the job well without the risk of over-treating and perhaps introducing a high chemical odor into the tank.

Holding tanks, drains, and dump valves are susceptible to freezing in cold weather.  The holding tanks on many RVs are underneath the body where they are openly exposed to cold temperatures.  If you go camping in freezing weather with an RV that is thus equipped you will need heating pads to keep the holding tanks from freezing.  Heat tape may be need to prevent drain lines from freezing too, depending on the configuration of the plumbing.  If you have enclosed holding tanks and valves you may only need to keep the cabinet warm enough to prevent freezing.  A 100 watt incandescent light bulb (now difficult to find) or a "reptile" light used to heat the habitat of cold blooded pets might provide enough heat to prevent freezing.  BTW, you probably won't encounter any excess odor problems during cold weather unless you over-heat the tanks.

Keep On Flushing!