Its Almost Winter Again!

My, how time flies!  So we must be having fun ("Time flies when you having fun").  Or as Kermit says "Time's fun when you're having flies."   Seems it was just the other day we were doing spring cleaning and getting ready for another camping season.  Now, it is mid September and as I look at the weather forecast, predicted overnight temperatures on the mountain where I am currently staying are rapidly approaching the freezing point.  We've even had a few snow flurries and the possibility of more snow in a day or so.  That means winterizing RVs or putting them in a heated garage to prevent freeze damage.   If you get a night or two of barely freezing temperatures with warmer days in between, full winterization may not be as critical as it is where you have sub-freezing temperatures (say 24° F or below) for days on end.  Then you MUST winterize your vehicle to prevent freeze damage.  Anything with water in it is subject to freeze damage.   That includes holding tanks, water lines, hoses, faucets, hot water heaters, water jugs, and even porta-pottys.  And make sure you remove any provisions that might freeze, like cans or bottles of soda, or you'll have a real mess next spring.  I try to make sure my RVs are winterized long before I get two or more nights at 24° F or below, as those temperatures are sure to start causing damage.

There are other posts on this blog and many excellent articles on other web sites that give detailed instructions on winterizing your RV so I won't repeat them here.  The point I want to make is it is time to start planning to winterize your rigs.   Remove provisions that could be damaged by freezing and properly protect all the water systems with appropriate antifreeze or by draining.   That means making sure engine coolant in motorhomes, generators, tow vehicles, and OHVs are properly protected with the right kind of antifreeze too.  Buy the RV antifreeze you need now before its all gone as "everyone" finally gets around to winterizing their boats and RVs.

What about "winterizing" yourself?  You probably need to drag out your warm winter clothes and snow boots and make sure they are in good condition to be used.  Hopefully you cleaned them and stored them properly, but they may still need to be aired out and you need to inspect them for insect or vermin infestations and damage.  If you live someplace with a true four-season environment you'll want to find or obtain thermal underwear and maybe some insulated socks.   Don't forget earmuffs or beanies to keep your ears from freezing.   A balaclava (face mask) is good to have to keep your face warm if you expect to be out in really cold weather or riding an OHV, snowmobile, or horse in cold weather.  Warm, water-resistant or water-proof gloves or mittens are essential for keeping your hands warm.  Some chemical heat pads like "Hot Hands" can help keep your fingers and toes and other body parts warm.   Mittens will keep your fingers warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  One of my winter favorites is a "ushanka" -- a Russian ear hat, those furry hats with flaps that cover your ears, neck, and part of your cheeks.  I find them very good for winter and even for extra cool desert nights.

What about winter activities?   Weather will likely have a significant impact on the kinds of activities you choose for winter.  Depending on where you live and you might switch over to winter sports, like skiing, snowboarding, or snowmobiling.  Or you might just put your outdoor energy toward getting ready for next year.   Now is a good time to perform routine inspections and maintenance on your vehicles and your gear.   Even if the weather is bad outside you can work on your camping gear and OHVs inside.   If your garage isn't heated you might use your catalytic tent heater to take the chill off.   Just be sure you have adequate ventilation.  Go through your RV or camping gear.  Make sure everything you used last year got back where it belongs and is clean and in good shape for next season.   Check your supplies and replace used up, damaged, outdated or missing items.  Check your sources for camping gear to see what may be available at year end or end of season closeout prices to enhance next year's outings.  Close outs and clearances are a good time to stock up for next year.   You may be able to snag a good deal on some new gadget or piece of equipment you've been wanting or just stock up on expendables.  Be sure to check online resources like ebay and craigslist.   You might even find some stuff on Freecycle.com, a web site where people list things they want to get rid of.  You never know.  Someone may need to make room in their garage and have just the tent you're looking for and all you have to do is go pick it up!  Freecycle is an interesting way to recycle useful items.   You may find YOU have stuff you don't need anymore. Listing it on Freecycle.com may make it available to someone who can really use it and you don't have to hassle with setting prices or haggling with prospective buyers.   It sure beats throwing it in the trash!

Ready. Set. Snow!

Holding Tank Health

Self-contained RVs are able to mimic the conveniences of home , making use of on board systems to provide power, water, and sanitation. While problems with power or water can be a nuisance and inconvenience, problems with the sanitation system can wreak havoc with your environment and even your health, on top of being REALLY unpleasant!

Power, in electrical form is provided by batteries and generators (and sometimes solar panels) and requires minimal maintenance, but that little bit of maintenance is critical. Make sure all battery and generator connections are clean and tight and service the generator regularly per the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule. Most generators are equipped with a low oil shutoff to prevent serious damage from low lubrication.  Even so, you should check the oil before every outing and daily in camp and top it off if necessary.  Heating fuel for the furnace, hot water heater, and even the refrigerator normally comes from propane. The propane system normally only requires filling and checking for leaks. Occasionally you may have to replace a faulty regulator.

Fresh water comes from a fresh water tank and is delivered to fixtures throughout the RV by a 12-volt water pump. Fresh water tanks require minimal maintenance. Unless they have become contaminated from a polluted water source, all they normally require is an annual flushing with a mild chlorine bleach solution (about 1 cup per 60 gallons of water) and rinsing with water and baking soda. Other than that, about all you need to do is fill your tank with clean water before you leave home. Always use a potable water hoses to avoid getting a plastic taste and smell in your fresh water supply when filling your tank. Use this same type hose when filling fresh water tanks and when connecting to city water. Use an in-line pressure regulator between the hose and the faucet to prevent high city water pressure from blowing out the hose or damaging your RV plumbing when connecting your RV to city water. If your water pump fails during a trip you can probably get water for cooking, drinking, and basic sanitation by draining some out the spigot normally used to drain your fresh water tank for winterization.  If you run out of water, you're going to have to go get some.

Sanitation facilities are made possible by the presence of holding tanks to contain the waste products from sinks, bathtubs, showers, and toilets. Most RVs have two holding tanks: one for "gray" water, from sinks, bathtubs, and showers, and a second "black" water tank for toilet waste. Holding tanks are often a mystery to newcomers and the very thought of having to deal with them is repulsive to many people until they get used to it (and sometimes even after that!). The gray water tank, if regularly dumped and thoroughly flushed, usually requires no additional chemicals or cleaning unless you dump excessive solid food wastes or other unpleasant debris down the drain. The black water tank, on the other hand, requires fresh chemicals after each dumping and sometimes between dumpings, especially in hot weather. Some commonly used chemicals which are usually considered to be most effective, contain formaldehyde which some environmentally sensitive people find objectionable, especially if you dump into a residential septic tank, but there are "green" alternatives that rely on natural enzymes to breakdown waste and control odors. Regardless of which one you choose, take care to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Add the correct amount of chemicals for the size of your holding tank. Using too little results in foul odors and incomplete breakdown of solid wastes and subsequent problems dumping and flushing the holding tank. Using too much is a waste of costly chemicals and can even have a negative affect on the performance of the chemicals in the tank. Black water chemicals are usually added through the RV toilet. Dump the appropriate amount of chemicals (powder or liquid) into the toilet, then run enough water to fill the narrow well in the bottom of the toilet before flushing to drop the mixture into the holding tank. Read the directions on the container for the chemicals. Most experts will tell you to add water until there is about 1 1/2" in the bottom of the tank. This provides a medium to disolve the chemicals to begin their reaction and be able to breakdown solid wastes so they can be successfully flushed when the holding tanks are dumped. It also provides some water in the bottom of the tank to prevent solids from sticking and piling up under the toilet.  Leaving the black water tank dry is an invitation for disaster. In some RVs, the shower drains into the black water tank in order to provide additional water to facilitate proper chemical action and dumping. If you have this configuration you will want to be especially careful to avoid over-filling the black water tank, which could backup raw sewage into your shower! That could literally be a really crappy problem.  Those who do a lot of dry camping often forgo adding water after flushing, but this is an invitation to disaster.  Without sufficient water in the tank solids will stick to the bottom and will pile up below the toilet, sometimes enough to clog the toilet.  Tank chemicals won't be able to do their job which is controlling odors and breaking down the solids.  It may be really difficult to get good results the next time the tank is dumped.  If you do have a problem getting everything to flush out cleanly or if  the level sensors aren't working right, try dumping a bag of ice cubes into the tank through the toilet, fill the thank about 1/4 full, and drive around a bit so the ice can scour the inside of the tank. The cubes will loosen deposits on all the surfaces inside the tank.  Once it melts you can flush the tank as usual and this time everything should come out clean.

Overfilling of waste water holding tanks is an all too common problem, especially among new users.   Pretty much, if you ever do it, you won't do it again!  Overfilled holding tanks create backup in the drains and the toilet and can make the inside of your RV so foul smelling that it will be uninhabitable.  Most RVs with holding tanks have a monitor system that at least gives you some idea of how full the tanks are getting.  They usually display E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F.  Check the monitor often during each trip and compare usage to date to the number of days remaining.  If you hit 1/2 half way through a trip, you're probably doing OK but if you hit half on the first day of a multiple day trip, you're going to be in trouble before the trip is over You'll either have to severely restrict additional use or find someplace to dump the tanks.  You might make a little extra room in your gray water tanks by draining off a bucket or two to put out the fire each night.  DO NOT try this with the black water tank! Gray water usually doesn't contain enough contaminants to cause a problem but raw sewage dumped on a hot fire will create a really foul smell.

Foul odors. Besides the obvious size limitations (holding tanks always seem to fill up way too fast!), the most common complaint about holding tanks are foul odors. Foul odors are usually the result of improper maintenance -- incomplete dumping and flushing or the lack of sufficient chemicals. While traveling, odors from roof vents may be drawn into the RV or the partial vacuum created by open windows may draw odors up through drain pipes. Odors may also escape through an incompletely closed toilet valve. There are fancy 360 degree roof vents designed to disperse vent odors. Ordinary vents are simply a loosely fitting cap on top of the vent pipe from the holding tank. If you experience holding tank odors while on the road, close all the windows. That will usually eliminate odors from being sucked in through the drain pipes. If the odor seems especially strong inside a cabinet, like under the kitchen sink, the problem may be a faulty vacuum breaker. These are used to prevent all the water from being siphoned out of the P-traps on the drains. The water left in the P-trap normally prevents odors from wafting back up out of the holding tanks through the sink and shower drains. A faulty vacuum breaker may be either stuck open, allowing odors to escape or stuck shut, allowing water to be siphoned from the P-traps subsequently allowing odors to come up through the drain. If the odor is coming from the drain, you may be able to temporarily solve the problem and make your trip more pleasant by dumping about a cup of water down the drain to re-fill the P-trap. If the odor is strongest inside a cabinet, try to locate the vacuum breaker and tap it gently to get it unstuck. The housing is made of plastic, so don't bang on it too hard or you'll may damage the plumbing and create problems far worse than a bad smell. If you notice exceptionally foul odors coming from the toilet you probably have an inadequate amount of chemicals in the black water tank or the holding tank is full! Perhaps you didn't add enough chemicals after the last dumping and flushing -- or maybe you even forgot to add them at all. You often will need extra chemicals between trips to the dump station during heavy use in hot weather. If the tank is not full, try adding chemicals to the black water tank. If, when you look down into the tank through the toilet, you do not see any liquid, add water so the chemicals can begin to breakdown solid wastes. Rather than waste precious fresh water, put a bucket under the gray water dump valve and drain off some of that to transfer to the black water tank (dump it down the toilet). As previously mentioned, some RVs connect the shower to the black water tank to deliver extra fluid directly into the tank to aid breakdown and dumping and reduce filling of the gray water tank. With that in mind, you definitely want to avoid over-filling your black water tank since it can back up into the shower, creating an extremely nasty mess! Keep an eye on the level of your holding tanks and dump them BEFORE they backup and cause some really unpleasant situations inside your RV. Most RVs have gauges that show the holding tank levels. If you're doesn't or the gauges are not working (an all too common problem), try to monitor and limit your fresh water usage. If sewage splashes back up when you flush the toilet, your black water tank is getting dangerously full. The residue from even a gray water backup creates an ideal environment for molds to grow, creating additional bad smells and staining. So avoid backups and, if you do get one, make sure you clean up any overflow as quickly and thoroughly as possible. A solution of 10% ordinary household bleach and 90% water is an effective disinfectant on most hard surfaces, but be sure to test it on an obscure spot to be sure it won't cause permanent damage when using it on carpets, upholstery, curtains, paneling, or wallpaper.

Dumping and flushing holding tanks. The most important part of maintaining your holding tanks is also one of the simplest, but many new RVers are repulsed and intimidated by it. That is dumping and flushing the tanks. Anyone who has seen the movie "RV" with Robin Williams can appreciate their trepidations. The scene where Robin's character tries to dump the holding tanks of rented RV is an exaggerated and spectacular demonstration of what NOT to do and how unpleasant the consequences can be. By the way, it is highly unlikely you will ever encounter a fountain of waste on the scale seen in the movie, but improper procedures can easily result in shoes and pant legs soaked in sewage.  On the other hand, if done correctly, dumping the tanks is a fairly simple and sanitary process. Normal RV holding tanks are dumped via a 3" hose using only gravity to transfer the sewage from the holding tanks to the dump station.  As a starting point, you need the right dump hoses and fittings (in good condition) -- something the poor novice in the movie was sadly lacking (along with a total dearth of knowledge about the rented RV). Check your sewer dump hose before you leave home to make sure 1) you have one, 2) it is in good condition, and 3) is has all the necessary fittings to connect it to your dump valves and to the dump station inlet. Extend the hose so you know how long it is. That will let you know how close you must get to the dump station. If there are worn spots on the hose or, if when you run water through it, you see leaks, get a new one! The last thing you want to deal with is raw sewage spilling onto the ground or onto you! If it spills on the ground there is a good chance that sooner or later you will walk in it and track it into your RV.  The over-the-head sewage geyser in the movie is lot going to happen, but the pressure of sewage flowing through the dump hose could create nasty sprays through pinhole leaks in your dump hose. Spray could easily reach as high as the level of the sewage still in the tank, meaning it could usually go about waist high.  Make sure the hose is securely attached to the fitting that connects to the dump valves and connected properly to the dump valves. More than one poor RVer has gotten a nasty surprise when he opened the dump valves and the weight and force of the sewage charging into the hose separated it from the fitting. And, since by necessity, you must be in close proximity to the connector to open the dump valve, you are likely to be the unwilling and unhappy recipient of a large portion of the spillage. Yccch! If you have two holding tanks connected to a single dump connection, there should be separate valves, one each for the gray water and black water tanks. Open the black water valve first and leave the gray water valve closed until you have dumped and flushed the black water tank. If you have separate connections, dump the black water tank first, then dump the gray water tank. By always dumping the black water tank first the gray water will rinse most of the raw sewage from the black water tank out of the dump connection on your RV and the hose before you put it away. How can you tell which is which? The black water tank should always have 3" dump valve. The gray water might have a 1 1/2" valve. The black water tank is usually directly below the toilet. After dumping each tank, flush the tank with clear water before closing the dump valve. This is where having a holding tank flush system comes in handy. With one of those, you simply connect a garden hose to the flush system fitting on the side of the RV and turn on the water. Nozzles inside the tank rinse the tank. Lacking a flush system, you can flush the black water tank by sticking a special wand attached to a garden hose down through the toilet or just running water down the toilet with the flush pedal depressed. A wand works better than just a hose because it directs a concentrated spray around inside the tank to rinse the walls. Try to avoid aiming the wand so that sewage is blown back up through the toilet! You won't like the results. There are also sewer hose fittings that have back-flush features. This consists of a female hose fitting upstream from the sewer hose (near the connection to the RV) that lets you connect a garden hose to the fitting. The water is directed in a forceful spray back up inside the holding tank. Of all these options, the flush system is the cleanest and easiest to use and does the best job of rinsing the inside of your holding tanks. Regardless of the method you use to rinse the thanks, rinse each one until the water coming out the end of the sewer hose is clear. Dirty water from the gray water tank will be, well, gray or cloudy. Dirty water from the black water tank may be blue or green or brown, depending on the type and amount (or lack) of chemicals in the tank. Again, dump and rinse the black water tank first, then the gray water tank.That way the gray water flushes the nasty sewage from the black water tank out of your dump hose and deep into the drain.   Flush each tank when the contents have been dumped and before moving to another tank. This avoids contaminating your gray water tank with raw sewage or chemicals. If your RV does not have a flush system, one can usually be added. I've added them to several RVs myself. It is a fairly straight forward task, easily within the skills of a confident do-it-yourselfer if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the holding tanks. You need to drill a hole in the tank to install the flush nozzle and run a hose to a connector for a garden hose. The hole should be in about the middle of the tank, top to bottom and end to end. It is most effective if installed on the long side of a rectangular tank.  Not only will you need a place to install the nozzles, you will need room for the tools (drill, screwdrivers) to do the job.  The installation kit will include detailed instructions for proper installation. Pay close attention to the instructions to avoid unpleasant leaks. Do NOT use the same hose to flush your holding tanks and rinse your dump hose as you use to fill your fresh water tank. Yeah, its a nuisance to carry around two hose, but you run the risk of contaminating your fresh water hose if it is used to flush holding tanks and sewer hoses. Professional installation of the flush system is available at most RV dealers for a nominal charge. You should always flush your holding tanks at the end of your journey, just before you put your unit back into storage, even if it has been a short trip with minimal use. Of course, you many need to dump the tanks multiple times during extended outings as well. Dumping after a trip is a good time for a thorough cleaning. The sloshing around during transit will have loosened solid waste deposits so they can be be flushed out at the dump station. You sure don't want to leave sewage in your tanks while your unit is not being used or the next time you enter it you may feel like you need a gas mask -- and the odors will cling to carpets and upholstery for a very long time!  Residual solids left in the tank may dry and get too hard and too stuck to the tank to be flushed out if you don't get them out at the end of your trip.

If done correctly, your hands should never come in contact with any sewage, but it is still a VERY good idea to always wear disposable latex or nitrile gloves whenever you handle your sewer hose -- getting it out, checking it, using it, rinsing it, and putting it away. I leave my gloves on until after I've added the chemicals to the black water tank to avoid getting the chemicals on my hands too. Some people use re-usable household rubber gloves, but I prefer disposable gloves so the dirty gloves don't contaminate anything in my RV. If you use re-usable gloves, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before you put them away so you don't contaminate your hands handling the gloves next time.  Wash your hands thoroughly after you remove your gloves.  Keep a bottle of hand sanitizer handy when dumping your holding tanks.  You 'll feel better knowing your hands aren't contaminated.

What does a sewer hose look like?   Sewer hoses are 3" in diameter and should have a fitting on one end that attaches to the dump connection on the RV.  The hoses are usually blue, gray, or brown.  They are compressible so they don't take up extra space in storage.  They have a steel spring inside that keeps the shape and allows them to be compressed.  They look kind of like a Slinky that's been dipped in plastic.  They may or may not have a second fitting that goes into the dump station.  Anyone who does a lot of full hook-up camping will probably have fittings that accommodate various sized openings a the camp sites.  Folks who mostly dry camp often just stuff the end of the sewer hose itself into the dump station drain.  Some dump stations have a heavy metal lid that can be positioned to help hold the hose in place.  If you encounter one that doesn't look for a rock or brick to put on the hose -- or have someone keep one foot on it so it doesn't pop out when the initial surge of sewage comes through and doesn't work its way loose from vibration during dumping.  Obviously it is better to subject some inanimate object to possible spills than it would be to use a foot.  You can rinse spill off a rock pretty easily, but cleaning crap off your shoes, socks, and feet would be a rather unpleasant task and you may up just throwing away your socks and Reboks if you get a black water spill on them.

Some RVs have a macerator system that grinds up sewage and pumps it out through a 1" hose instead of the big 3" dump hose, but mostly you'll see 3"dump hoses for disposing of gray and black water.  The macerator systems have several advantages.  One, they grind up waste into small particles so it can be flushed out through a 1" line that can be run into a toilet instead of a dump station.  Just be very careful to keep the hose in the toilet and not let the toilet overflow!  Another advantage is they can pump waste uphill and over some distances while standard dumping procedures rely totally on gravity.  If you're using a macerator system it will probably take longer to dump your tanks through the little 1" hose than through the big 3" gravity dump hose.

So where is that darned sewer hose in the first place? There are a number of places it may be stored. Some units have 4" square rear bumpers where the hose is stored.  Just remove the end cap to pull out the hose.  Some have special compartments which are essentially a small door covering the end of a piece of pipe that extends under the RV or into a cabinet into which the hose is shoved for storage. In some units, the sewer hose is stored loose in the cabinet with the dump valves. In some, especially older units, there may not be a specific location designed to store the sewer hose and you may find it in just about any cabinet -- hopefully any previous owners or users have had the good sense to put it in an exterior cabinet and not under the kitchen sink or the bed! If your unit is lacking a convenient place to store the sewer hose, you may be able to add one using a length of large PVC or ABS pipe. Cement a cap on the far end and install a removable cap (threaded is best) on the end where you will access the hose. Attach the pipe to the bottom of your RV  or to the rear bumper using plumbers tape. On some units it may be more convenient to mount it on the rear bumper or between the bumper and the coach body.  In an ideal installation, the open end of the tube would be placed behind an appropriately sized door in the side of the RV near the dump station.  For the most convenience, the storage should be located near the dump valves. Once you have rinsed your sewer hose and put it away, rinse the concrete pad around the dump station to flush any spilled materials down into the drain. Some dump stations have a garden hose available for your use, but just in case, it is a good idea to carry your own. This is particularly true if you have a flush system, because many times, the male fitting will have been cut off the end of the dump station hose to prevent stupid people from connecting it to their city water inlets or using it to fill their water tanks and contaminating their water supply. I carry a green garden hose for use at the dump station so it never gets confused with the white, potable water hose I use to connect city water or to fill my fresh water tank. You don't want to be using a hose for fresh water that you previously shoved down inside a sewer hose to rinse it. The very thought is almost enough to make most people want to puke! And if just thinking about it doesn't do it, drinking contaminated water just may. I sure don't plan try it to find out!

When you are finished dumping, make sure your dump valves are closed tightly and locked in place and that the travel cap is securely re-installed on the end of the dump valve connector. You can be cited if your dump valves leak onto the roadway. Besides that, the nasty stuff splashing back up onto your rig may create a really unpleasant mess to clean up when you get home.  Dump valves have a lock-nut that screws down at the base of the handle to keep them from vibrating loose during transit. Thoroughly rinse your sewer hose and let the water drain out into the dump station before you put it away.  Make sure you've put away your personal garden hose and re-connected the one that belongs to the dump station. Check to see if you've left anything behind. Then, once you've added the chemicals to the black water tank, remove and discard your disposable gloves and wash your hands. You're done! If you've done it right, it wasn't all that bad a task. If you screwed up, chances are you will never make the same mistake again since the consequences are generally very unpleasant and embarrassing -- but it will make a good campfire story some time. Just don't share it at meal time!

Holding tanks leaks are, fortunately, fairly infrequent, but they do happen and can be very unpleasant and embarrassing. Leaks may occur do to impact damage, freezing, stress, vibration, or just plain age. The most frequent source of leaks is loose connections and they can usually be easily fixed by tightening the clamps or coating the joints with the appropriate sealant.  Other leaks where the tank or plumbing has been damaged will require patching or replacing the damaged components. Most RV sewer lines and holding tanks are black ABS plastic. ABS can be chemically welded to make repairs. Milky gray tanks are LDPE and are impervious to most solvents and may require thermal welding or replacement if they are damaged. See my separate post on Holding Tank Repairs for more information.  I once saw the holding tanks on a trailer fall out on the highway.  The reflected heat from the hot pavement on a very hot day had caused them to soften and sag enough under the weight of the waste inside to sag and collapse out of the frame rails that held them in place.  The subsequent repair included adding cross members beneath the tanks to prevent a re-occurrence.

Black water tanks may require extra chemicals during especially hot weather to control odors.  High temperatures may accelerate the development of odors and interfere with the effectiveness of holding tank treatments.  Even gray water tanks my get unusually smelly when its hot.  Gray water tanks usually don't need chemicals for odor control but you may want to keep some on hand if odors become a problem.  You can use a small amount of the same chemicals you use for your black water tank in the gray water tank, but there are also special gray water tank treatments that do the job well without the risk of over-treating and perhaps introducing a high chemical odor into the tank.

Holding tanks, drains, and dump valves are susceptible to freezing in cold weather.  The holding tanks on many RVs are underneath the body where they are openly exposed to cold temperatures.  If you go camping in freezing weather with an RV that is thus equipped you will need heating pads to keep the holding tanks from freezing.  Heat tape may be need to prevent drain lines from freezing too, depending on the configuration of the plumbing.  If you have enclosed holding tanks and valves you may only need to keep the cabinet warm enough to prevent freezing.  A 100 watt incandescent light bulb (now difficult to find) or a "reptile" light used to heat the habitat of cold blooded pets might provide enough heat to prevent freezing.  BTW, you probably won't encounter any excess odor problems during cold weather unless you over-heat the tanks.

Keep On Flushing!

Winter Camping At Home -- Say What?

In most of the colder parts of the country, winter means storing our RVs and camping gear and holing up in front of  a cozy fireplace until the warm weather returns.  Those in the sunbelt can continue to enjoy outdoor pursuits.  When we lived in southern California even New Years Day was an opportunity for RVing and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  Not likely that is going to happen here in Utah!  So why the heck would anyone what to do any winter camping at home?

One big advantage to winter camping at home is you don't have far to go to recover if anything goes wrong.  Just as we've often suggested driveway or backyard "outings" as a way to develop your skills and get used to your equipment, you can use them for winter preparations as well.  If you should run into trouble, like say running out of propane, you can just go back inside to keep warm whereas, if you had a problem in a remote location you might not have any convenient way of handling the issue(s) and may experience a considerable amount of discomfort  -- or even get sick or die -- before you could recover.  Winter camping at home is a good way to make sure you are prepared before you try any remote winter camping.

If you have an RV you store at home during the winter you might consider spending a night or two in it just for fun, to maintain your familiarity with systems and supplies, and to keep your equipment in peak operating condition.  We did that in our truck camper when the onset of winter sneaked up on us before we could take it out for a shakedown cruise.  If you're in freezing weather you won't want to use any of the water or sewer systems, but you can still test out the furnace and determine if the bedding is adequate for cold nights.  And you could cook and eat in the RV.  Just be sure to take all the dishes back into the house to wash them.  Using your RV systems periodically while in storage is actually good for them.  Run the generator for an hour so two.  Disuse is one of the hardest things on equipment.

Our motorhome and camper have both served as extra guest rooms when we've had family visiting at Christmas on a number of occasions.  We had to educate our guests that there was no water and to not use the toilet, but otherwise they were quite warm and comfortable and enjoyed more privacy than they might have had crammed inside the house with other guests.  The grandkids especially liked staying in an RV.  If you live in the sunbelt where winterization isn't necessary, using the RV is even more convenient since they can use the water based systems.  You may be able to use the water based systems if your RVs are properly prepared for it and you exercise proper procedures.  You may need holding tank heaters to keep fresh and waste water tanks and lines from freezing.

Winter opportunities for tent campers are more limited but still possible.  You may have to set up your tent in the snow, but even that can be surprisingly comfortable if you are prepared for it.  If that doesn't appeal to you and your family you might resort to setting up your tent in the garage or an outbuilding.  I've noticed that the temperature inside my garage is typically in the mid 40s even when the outside temperature is in the teens.  I've read that even just having a roof over your head can raise the temperature 20°F, which is often enough to prevent freezing of RV water lines etc.  A barn, shed, or greenhouse could also provide a temperate location for setting up a winter tent.  One of our kids and her family set up a tent in our barn during a Christmas visit in Utah a few years ago.

I've even seen folks set up dome tents in their family rooms and living rooms for the kids for a fun night or two and there is no reason that couldn't be done by kids of ALL ages.  You'll need a self standing tent, not one that needs stakes and guy ropes.  If don't have a self-standing tent you might get by setting up a 2x4 frame around your tent to fasten loops and guy lines to since you can't drive stakes into your floor.

Practicing your winter camping skills could turn out be more than just a fun diversion.  If you should experience a long term power outage during the winter, being able to  move into your RV or set up your tent in your living room might be your best way to survive.  The threat of long term power outages grows stronger every day.  Not only are we now facing possible outages from a strong EMP from solar activity, the terrorist organization ISIS is reportedly actively planning ways to disable the US power grid.  Many people aren't aware of just how vulnerable the power grid is nor how long it would take to replace damaged transformers and restore power.  It would likely be years!  Recent estimates I've read say that disabling as few as 9 key substations would disable the entire US power grid for a year and a half.

Practicing your campfire skills can also be fun in winter.   Gathering around a blazing fire is a good way to ward off the chill of winter activities.  Just having a campfire in your snowy backyard can be fun.  Campfires may also become critical for cooking and hygiene during an extended emergency so it is good practice to try it out before you need it in an emergency.

Be cool and keep warm!

Keeping your RV or Camper Warm

Most RVs and campers are equipped with propane furnaces that usually do a pretty good job of keeping them warm enough on cool nights.  Just set the thermostat and as long as you don't run out of propane or run your batteries down you will stay warm.  Interestingly enough, when your batteries get low the furnace fan may keep running, blowing cold air.  However, even with a good furnace, you may need extra help on really cold nights.   Often Canadian motorhomes come from the factory ready for winter use, but most made in the United States do not.  Usually you can make modifications to make them more suitable for cold weather camping if you need it but it can be expensive.  You may need extra insulation along with freeze-proofing your water systems and increasing heat through a larger or additional heating unit.

Boats have different heating and cooling problems than RVs.  Please see my post on Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature for more information on boats.  Basically, you will only find heating and cooling systems on larger yachts and not on the daysailers typically used by weekend sailors.  Fortunately, we don't often use our boats in freezing weather.

You might take advantage of all the warmth from sunlight you can get:  park so the side with the most or largest windows is facing the sun most of the day.  Solar heating won't keep your RV warm by itself but it can help keep it warmer.

One of the first things to do is to make sure you aren't throwing away heat through open windows or vents.  Make sure you roof vent(s) are closed.  It is easy to forget to close the one in the bathroom.  Avoid opening exterior doors as much as possible.  Also be sure to close curtains and drapes.  Adding reflective foam insulation to windows can help keep you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Some units may benefit from additional insulation.  For example, it was easy for me to add a Styrofoam insulation panel to the roof of a van camper.  All that was there before adding the insulation was a cardboard-like headliner.  The foam helped keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  It usually isn't practical to add insulation to the walls, ceiling, or floor or most RVs and campers, unless you are already opening them up for other repairs or modifications.  If you REALLY need extra insulation you might be able to install foam panels on the inside of the walls and put new paneling over it.  You will loose a little space inside your unit but it might be worth it.  The easiest way to do this is with Styrofoam insulation panels.  Another alternative would be to essentially build an extra wall all the way around the inside of your unit to give you room to install residential-style fiberglass insulation.  Doing it with 2x2 studs will probably double the thickness of most RV walls and insulation since most RVs have 2x2 studs in the original walls.  To get full R-13 insulation like you have at home you might need to build new wall inside using 2x4 studs.  Doing  that will use up at least 5-6"of interior space for each wall, depending on what kind of wall board you use.  One issue you will have to deal with in either case is the moldings around doors and windows, which may take some creative construction to achieve acceptable results.   And don't forget the ceiling!  Since heat rises, you want to make sure you aren't losing heat unnecessarily through the roof!  Adding insulation to the floor will likely very intrusive and expensive.  Sometimes you can reduce heat loss through floors by putting a skirt to block wind from blowing underneath the vehicle while it is parked.  For long term usage, like using your motorhome or trailer as a guest house at home, you can use plywood or other rigid panels cut to fit between the bottom of the wall and the ground.  If you want skirting during your outings, flexible panels made of vinyl or canvas will do the job.  You usually need to install snaps along the bottom edge of your unit to secure flexible panels.  Heavy duty Velcro might be an option if you don't want to drill holes in the walls of your RV.

Take advantage of every available resource to reduce heat loss.  Close curtains and drapes.  Close vents.  If there is a breeze coming under a door, roll up a towel and lay it against the crack where the breeze is coming in.  You might be losing heat under doors even if you don't feel any breeze coming in.  If you can see daylight under the door, it probably needs to be blocked to reduce heat loss.  Since heat rises, be sure to check for gaps at the top of exterior doors too.  You may be able to add weather stripping to block gaps.

In most cases adding an auxiliary heater of some kind is the easiest and least expensive way of warming up a cold RV or camper.  If you have 120 volt electrical power from a generator or shore line an electrical heater is really easy to install and use and is generally a little safer than propane heaters that consume oxygen.  Even indoor rated catalytic propane heaters that do not produce significant amounts of toxic fumes will consume oxygen to you always have to provide adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation!  You will want to take precautions with all heaters to ensure they are not too near to any combustible surface, such as curtains, drapes, upholstery, and bedding.  Also be careful using them to dry wet shoes and clothing, making sure items aren't too close.  Electric fireplaces are an attractive way to add heating capacity along with a nice cabin-like ambiance.  The ones I've used fit nicely under the dinette table.

Sometimes you might simply add an extra sweater or sweatshirt or even a jacket or dress in thermal underwear to keep YOU warmer without having to heat the entire living space of your RV or camper.  At night an extra blanket or quilt or a warmer sleeping bag might all that is needed.  Some folks like to wear warmer "bunny" pajamas and socks but many people feel claustrophobic with too much clothing in bed.  You will usually sleep best and most comfortably when dressed the way you usually sleep at home.  You can add warm rocks or something like warmed potatoes or a hot water bottle to your bedding to help ward off cold feet, just make sure they aren't hot enough to scorch the bedding or hurt your feet.

If you do a lot of cold weather camping and your existing furnace isn't sufficient to keep you comfortable you may be able to add a second furnace or upgrade the existing one.  Upgrading the existing one is usually easier and less expensive as it can take advantage of the original electrical and gas connections, fit in the old cabinet, and use the existing ducting.  Many times newer, more efficient furnaces with greater heating capacity will fit in the space of older units but sometimes you may have to modify cabinets around them to make more room.  Adding a second furnace usually requires additional wiring and gas plumbing plus venting to the outside as well as finding someplace to mount it.  Some furnaces rely on convection to circulate the heat but others may require the installation of ducting so keep that in mind when choosing and installing your new furnace.  Convection furnaces are often used in small units like slide-in campers; ducted furnaces are common in larger trailerl and motorhomes.

You might be able to improve the energy efficiency of your rig to make it easier to heat and to keep it warm.  Try to eliminate any drafts around plumbing, wiring and doors.  Minimize opening of doors.  Keep curtain, shades, and drapes closed and add reflective foam panels to cover your windows.  If you ever have access to the inside of walls, floors, and ceilings (such as during repairs or renovations) consider increasing the insulation.  The gains from adding insulation probably don't warrant opening things up just to install it so take advantage of any time you do have things apart.

Monitor your propane usage closely.  During cold weather you will use more gas for heating, cooking, and hot water.  The last thing you want to do in cold weather is run out of heating fuel!  For extended stays bring along an extra portable tank or two of propane and invest in an Extend-A-Stay system to attach them to the propane system on your RV.  These work well for an auxillary gas supply for RV appliances but since RV generators run on liquid propane they won't work when the liquid in the RV tank drops below the pickup point.  You might be able to hedge your bet for extended stays by connecting the auxillary tank long before the level in the permanent tank drops below the generator pickup. 

If you have shore power or a big battery bank and an inverter you might use an electric blanket to keep you warm at night.  There are even 12 volt electric blankets if you have enough battery reserve for it.  If you rely on a generator or solar power for your electricity you still might use an electric blanket to pre-warm you bed so it is more comfortable when you get in it and it will stay warmer longer.  You can then conserve energy by turning it off.  You might need to turn it back on a time or two during colder nights.  That might be a problem if you don't have enough battery reserve and rely on your generator and are camping where running it at night might disturb other nearby campers.

One rather extreme solution, is to purchase a different unit, one that was built for cold weather use.  Many Canadian models come from the factory already suitable for cold weather operation, including freeze protection for the plumbing and sufficient furnace capacity.  Some units manufactured in the United States can be purchased with winterization packages but most standard units will not be suitable for winter camping without additional modifications.  To convert an existing RV for cold weather operation you will need to freeze protect the fresh water and waste water systems as well as improving insulation and upgrading the heating system.

Heat it up!

Is Spring Ever Going to Get Here?

Spring seems to be reluctant to show itself this year.  Here in McKenzie Bridge, Oregon we celebrated the first day of spring (March 20, 2023) with a Winter Storm Alert, forecasting up to 48" of new snow above 3000'!  Fortunately we didn't get nearly that much at our 1300' elevation, but even 2/3 of the way through April we are still getting snow.  Of course this is good news for areas so hard hit by recent drought.  Last I heard, Oregon was at 172% of normal snow, California about the same, and Utah at 201%!   All the extra snow should help refill some of the lakes and reservoirs that are at historic lows but it will take several years for them to fully recover from so many years of drought.

The late spring may have caused some RVers and campers to postpone spring cleaning and other preparations for a new recreational season.  Although we might not be able to get out and enjoy all of our favorite places for camping and outdoor recreation for a while yet, it is still a good idea to being preparations.  It usually takes a little time to get everything out of storage, cleaned, re-provisioned, and ready for the new season.  It seem like no matter how carefully we perform our winterization procedures, we always find something that needs repair or extra cleaning or other extra help before we are ready to hit the road.  Pests can infiltrate tents, sleeping bags, clothing, and provisions even when we have them stored in the most secure ways we can devise.  The last thing you want is to unroll your tent or sleeping bag in camp and discover is has been soiled or devoured by ravenous insects!  Such a discovery is never fun, but it is a lot better to make it at home where we can do something about it well in advance of needing to use it on an outing.

Having a delayed start on our outdoor activities can also give us a chance to do a little more research and a little more planning.  Doing so can enhance our summer activities more than you can imagine.  Whether you are looking for new places to go and things to do or just learning more about your favorite haunts, spending a little time on the Internet asking some relevant questions can yield a plethora of fun and useful information.  Knowing more of the geological and historical aspects of where we are headed can be a lot of fun and add greater depth to out enjoyment.  My family and friends had been dirt biking around Randsburg and Searles Station in the Mojave Desert in California before I learned that one of our usual campsites (Garden City) had once been a major stop for the famous Borax 20 Mule Teams and then a primary rail center.   All that remained when we were there was a decaying railroad water tower.  Not too far from there is also a small monument erected by an Eagle Scout at the site of an X15 crash to recognize the sacrifice of Major Michael Adams, American's 27th Astronaut (having flown the X15 to more than 266,000 feet) and the first official astronaut casualty. The concrete marker isn't grandiose, but it sparks the imagination. Try Googling "X15 crash site" for details and photos.

Given the long history of many of our state and national parks, you can almost always find lots of interesting stories regarding past and even regular ongoing events that can be fun to know and fun to share.  Some places, like Yellowstone and Devils Tower, have tons of geological features you will enjoy learning about too.

I have a couple of "spring" poems I find kind of fun:

FIRST:

Spring has sprung

The Grass has riz

I wonder where the flowers is! 

SECOND (actually kind of focused on summer, but starts with spring):

Spring has sprung

Fall has fell

Summer's come

And its hotter than ... it oughta be!

About a week after posting this lament on the delayed spring we suddenly had several very warm days, with temps getting up to 95F!  But now the highs are back down in the 60s and even down into the 50s in the coming days.  So, you never know what the weather is going to do!  Don't like the weather?  Just wait a minute!

Well, only a week or so after the late Winter Storm Alert we are back to 80 and 90 degree days.  The trees have leaves and lawns need to be mowed every week.  Guess it is about time to start planning this season's outings.

Enjoy the delay!

Winterizing Your Boat

How do you winterize your boat?  A lot depends on what kind of boat you have, how large it is, and whether you leave it in the water or not.  Trailerable boats can be easily hauled out and stored on shore, often at the owner's home or in a storage yard so they are easily accessible for cleaning, maintenance, winterization, repairs, and upgrades.  It also keeps them safe from theft or damage at the marina.

Many aspects of winterizing a boat are similar to winterizing and RV.  First of all, drain or freeze-proof all water systems (fresh water tanks, lines, and fixtures, waste water lines and tanks, and engine cooling systems).  Remove all perishable foods, sundries, and supplies.  Inspect all hatches and thru-hull fittings to ensure they won't leak.  

If you have a trailerable boat, or have your boat hauled out for the winter, you may want to shrink wrap it to protect it from the elements over the winter.  Doing it yourself can be a lot of work but there are companies that perform this service and are well worth it if it is within your budget.  Covering  your boat with a tarp will provide some level of protection, but it won't be as secure as shrink wrap and wind may wear holes in the tarp and/or damage the finish on the boat where it contacts hard surface.  Custom fit boat covers provide a safer, more secure way of covering your boat but they can take time and can be quite expensive.   We use a tarp over a PVC pipe frame to protect our sailboat.  The tarp protects it from the weather; the pipe frame protects the boat from the tarp and allows access for off season work.  When all assembled it looks like the boat is in a covered wagon!

While you have your boat out of the water is a good time to clean and inspect it.   Hulls often collect algae, mollusks, and other unwanted growths that can inhibit performance and, quite frankly, look like crap!  It would be a very good idea to thoroughly clean your boat, top and bottom, inside and out, before you put it into storage.  Carefully inspect the deck and hull to determine if they need painting or other maintenance before you put the boat back into service next year.

If you leave your boat in the water you will want to ensure it is securely tied up so winter storms don't toss it around and cause damage.  You will want to winterize all plumbing systems and remove perishable provisions and things that might be damaged by freezing if you are where it freezes.  You may want to cover your boat with a boat cover or tarp for extra protection.  If you do, make sure it fits well and is securely fastened.  You should plan on inspecting your boat regularly so you can take care of any problems that come up such as loose docking lines or accumulation of excess water in pools on covers or tarps.  Depending on how secure the marina is, you may also need to check for possible theft or vandalism while your boat was unattended.  Thieves and vandals are usually quick to notice and take advantage when any property is left alone for longer than normal periods of time.

You will want to remove all perishable provisions and anything that might be subject to freezing.  You may also want to inspect galley items to ensure they are clean before putting your boat into storage lest they attract pest during the winter.  Clean tables, counters, and cushions and wash any bedding, linens and clothing you plan to leave in the boat before putting it into storage.  Add used dryer cloths or moth balls to  drawers and closets help keep bugs at bay.  Used dryer cloths can be left between the sheets or in sleeping bags to help keep the beds fresh and clean.

Install some kind of device to reduce humidity when you put your boat into storage.   If your boat is stored where you have access to 120 volt power there are electric de-humidifiers that will dry the air.  For other situations you can get moisture control canisters that use chemicals to draw the moisture out of the air.  I use them in my motorhome, motorcycle trailer, and my boat.  I usually purchase them at Dollar Tree so they are not terribly expensive.  They are small so they fit just about anywhere but the size does limit there capacity so you may need to swap them out several times during the winter for best results.  Reducing humidity will help prevent mildew.

While your boat is out of commission for the winter is a good time to perform any need repairs, do regular maintenance, and work on any upgrades or enhancements you have been planning.  It will be harder if you leave your boat in the water or have it shrink wrapped.  Check the hull to see if the bottom needs painting.  They often do after a season in the water.  If  you have anything you need or want to do this winter you may want to do it before you shrink wrap it if that is your plan for protecting the boat.  Otherwise you may have to wait until you unwrap it next spring to get the job done.   Making repairs as soon as possible is the best way to reduce further damage and minimize the chances of forgetting what needs to be done.  In the paragraph below I describe the framed cover we use for our sailboat which gives us access to work on the boat just about all winter along.

We have a trailerable Macgregor 25 sailboat.  Each winter we pull it out of the lake and bring it home.  This saves several months of mooring fees, avoids risking damage from being banged around the docks by winter storms or icing, and keeps the boat in our yard where we can keep an eye on it.  We built a shelter for our boat using a PVC pipe frame and a large, green farm tarp.  The PVC bends enough to form bows over the boat to hold the tarp up, preventing possible damage to the tarp and the finish on the boat and allowing us access to the deck and the cabin for inspection and maintenance.  It looks like a big green covered wagon over the boat.  We drive 3/8" rebar into the ground as anchor points for each of the PVC pipes supporting the frame.  We used 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe.  For our 25' boat we use three horizontal pipes -- one at the ridgeline and one alongside each lifeline.  We use 4-way  (cross) connectors every 2' to run bows and legs from the ground on one side up over the boat to the ground on the other side.  Then pull the tarp over and tie it down securely with bungie cords.  You might want to glue the framework together or secure each joint with cotter pins or bolts, but I just use a press fit so I can easily replace any parts that may get damaged from snow loading and can disassemble it when it is time to launch the boat.  Our original green farm tarp lasted through 5 years of rainy and snowy Oregon winters, including an unusually heavy snowstorm and strong winds in at least 2 seasons!  This type of framed cover allows us to get into the boat for regular inspections and any maintenance, repairs up upgrades we need or want to do over the winter.  You will need to monitor throughout the winter to make sure the tarp stays taught and doesn't collapse under the weight of snow or rain.  Try to dump any puddles as soon as possible to minimize the buildup of weight on the protective structure.  If it collapses on your boat it could cause expensive damage.

To minimize tear down and set up time we keep as much of the framework intact when we remove it each summer.  If  you glue it together be sure to leave enough room on each side to pull the whole boat and trailer assembly out and put it back in next season.  If you choose to glue it together and use it as a semi-permanent structure you might want to consider using larger PVC pipe.  We went with 1/2" pipe for flexibility and ease of handling as well as lower cost.  We managed to break down our framework into about 6 pieces this last time and it took us less than 2 hours from start to finish to install the cover this year.  The "covered wagon" style cover also allows us easy access to the boat for inspection, repairs, cleaning, maintenance, and upgrades over the winter while providing good protection from the elements.  I find it handy to keep a supply of PVC fittings to replace any that get damaged by wind or snow loads (or I break taking it apart!).  They should include Ts, elbows, and 4-way "cross" fittings.

We kept our original 1970 Macgregor Venture 24 sailboat after it was totaled by the insurance company when it fell off the trailer on the way to the lake last summer.  It makes a fun playhouse for the grandkids and one day, with luck, we might find a new swing keel and mast to repair it and make it seaworthy again.  We covered it with a tarp to protect it against winter weather and keep soggy leaves from staining the deck.  I used sections of the broken mast to make a ridgepole down the centerl ine so that rain mostly runs off.  Fortunately the tarp doesn't really contact any painted or gelcoat surfaces that might be damaged by chaffing, but it is already wearing through where it contacts the tops of the stanchions along the lifeline.  Next year I should probably top each stanchion with a tennis ball.

The more you protect your boat for the winter, the less work you will face before launching it again next spring and the less chance there is of unwanted visitors making nasty nests or messes in or on your boat.  Wet leaves can leave nasty stains on the deck so protecting it with some kind of cover will save you a lot of scrubbing (or repainting!).

Keep it protected!

Winterizing -- Its That Time Again

Winterizing your RV.  If you live in a cold climate you will need to either store your RV in a heated garage or winterize it before the cold weather sets in to prevent freeze damage.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sunshine belt you can probably skip this post for now.  If you choose, for whatever reason, not to winterize your RV, and you live in a cold climate, the consequences could be very expensive.  Temperatures below about 24°F for several days WILL create conditions that can seriously damage RV water systems.  Occasional nights below freezing but with warm day time temperatures may not require full winterizing, but it always better to be safe than sorry.  When I lived in southern California I seldom winterized my vehicles, even when I lived in Rosamond where we got occasional winter night time temps down into the lower 20s. It warmed up enough during the day to prevent the kind of solid freezing that damages plumbing.  It was nice being able to keep the RV ready to roll all year round.  When we moved to Utah I had dreams of building a heated garage, but keeping a big, steel building warm in Utah winters isn't very practical so I've had to resort to winterization.  With night time temperatures in the single digits and daytime highs below freezing, winterization was not optional.   In the process I've had my share of partial successes, resulting in some frozen components when I failed to properly winterize them.   If the damage is in an exposed bit of plumbing, it is an inconvenience and usually a minor expense to repair.  If it occurs inside walls or within the floor, it can be very time consuming and expensive to take care of.  Even frozen pipes under the kitchen sink are a real nuisance to reach.  Proper winterization will take time and require several gallons of RV antifreeze.  It is not a good idea to skimp on either the process or the antifreeze.

The fresh water system is one of the most vulnerable parts of your RV when it comes to freezing. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C).  When water turns to ice it expands.  That's a good thing for lakes 'cause the ice floats.  If it sank, it might never melt and the lake would eventually freeze solid!   Not good for fish or fishermen!  Expansion in confined spaces, like pipes and fixtures, can seriously damage those components.  Many a homeowner and RV owner has suffered the consequences of freezing temperatures on water pipes.   If freezing can rupture heavy galvanized pipe in homes (and it does!), just think what it can do to the comparatively flimsy plastic pipes, dump valves, and fixtures in your RV!  Freezing of fresh water tanks and holding tanks is also of concern, though the size and flexibility of the tanks allows more leeway than thin pipes where the heat is quickly lost and whose structural integrity can be easily destroyed by the expanding ice.   The dump valves and other entry and exterior plumbing are quite susceptible to freeze damage if water is left in them.    All water needs to be eliminated or replaced with RV antifreeze.

To winterize your fresh water system, first drain your fresh water tank then run the water pump and open each faucet until no water comes out.  For added safety, use a 'blow out plug' in the city water inlet to use compressed air to blow any remaining water out of the system.  Be sure to open all the faucets before applying the compressed air.  Leave the drain open until it stops dripping to be sure all the water is out.  You may need to elevate the RV on the side away from the drain to be sure it all comes out.  Drain the hot water heater.  To conserve antifreeze you may want to install a water heater bypass kit (if your RV isn't already equipped with one).  They aren't expensive (usually around $20) and fairly easy to install if you have access to the back of the water heater.  With antifreeze running about $4/gallon, they'll pay for themselves in saved antifreeze the first year.  This allows cold water to pass directly from the feed to the hot water distribution without having to fill the water heater.  It is also a good idea to blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air if you can.  You will need an adapter to screw into the city water connection to which you can attach your compressed air.  Next fill the system with RV/Marine antifreeze.  DO NOT use automotive antifreeze!   It is toxic. RV antifreeze is usually pink. automotive antifreeze is green or yellow.   If you have access to the 12 volt water pump you may be able to connect a hose from the inlet to draw antifreeze from the jug and pump it through the system.  If not,  add a gallon or so of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank.   If that isn't enough to allow your pump to deliver water to all the faucets you may have to continue adding antifreeze until it does pump through the system.  You can also buy manual pumps to pump antifreeze in through the city water connection.   Some winter windshield wiper fluids are also pink, so make sure you use ONLY designated RV/Marine antifreeze.  Then disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and run a line into a jug of antifreeze.  Turn the pump on and open one faucet or fixture at a time (don't forget the toilet) and let it run until the pink antifreeze comes out.  Make sure you have at least 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  Your fresh water system should now be safe down to the protection level indicated for the antifreeze you used.   If you can't get to the inlet side of the pump, dump about 5 gallons or so of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank until you can pump it through the lines and faucets.  Make sure the pink stuff comes out ALL the faucets, both hot and cold, and the toilet.   And, don't forget the outside shower if your RV is equipped with one.

Hot water heaters are also subject to freezing when left off (you don't want to waste propane heating water all winter!).   Many RVs have a bypass system so you don't have to fill the whole water heater with antifreeze to protect the hot water lines.  After turning the valves to bypass the water heater, drain the water heater completely.  If your RV doesn't have a hot water heater bypass, one can usually be added fair inexpensively, especially if you can do it yourself.  Then, when you pump antifreeze through lines, it will go through the hot water lines and faucets as well as the cold water lines so all the lines are protected without having to pump 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater.  Installing a bypass system is pretty easy if you have ready access to the back of the water heater.  You may need custom components if clearances are tight.  Off-the-shelf bypass kits may have fittings and valves that may not fit if clearances are close.

Holding tanks are also susceptible to freeze problems.  Most vulnerable are the dump valves, but the tanks themselves and other plumbing lines can also be ruptured if the contents freeze and expand. Completely drain the holding tanks and add a gallon of antifreeze to each one to protect the dump valves.  Most of the drain lines will be dry, except for the P-traps.  That is why you need a half cup or so of antifreeze in each drain, to fill the P-traps.   Chemicals and contaminates in sewage may lower the freeze point slightly in holding tanks, but unless the additives are antifreeze it probably won't protect them much below the normal freeze point of plain water (32°F) and plain water caught in P-traps would definitely be likely to freeze and damage the plumbing.

The water hoses you use to fill your fresh water tank and to rinse your sewer hoses both need to drained so they don't freeze and burst or take them out and store them in a heated area where they will be protected from freezing.   Some RVers carry multiple fresh water hoses to ensure they can reach the faucets in even the most inconveniently configured camp sites.  Some may also carry a standard garden hose for flushing the holding tanks.  Be sure you take care of all your hoses.

Anything with water in it will need to be drained or protected.   I have a water type fire extinguish in my motorcycle trailer that I have to drain, plus I have to empty our "Camelbak" hydration packs.   Check around your cabinets for where you might have squirreled away bottled water and soda and put it somewhere that it won't freeze.   Frozen soda cans burst when they freeze and when the stuff melts it leaves a really sticky mess.   Ice maker lines should be disconnected and drained.

Propane systems usually don't require any special winterizing for storage, but if you plan to use your RV during winter months you'll want to fill it with a winter blend.  Ordinary propane tends to gel in cold temperatures and then your stove, furnace, and refrigerator won't work.  The winter mix includes butane which has a different vaporization point and helps keep the fuel ready to use at lower temperatures.  I learned this the hard way.  I had a Class B van conversion that I took with me when I moved to Chicago from southern California.  I figured I could increase our driving comfort by lighting the furnace an hour or so before we were ready to drive the van.   I was really disappointed when I could not get anything to light!  It was about -20F outside and the propane was useless. When it warmed up in the spring, everything worked just fine.  If there is excess moisture in your propane system, it could freeze and damage regulators and gas lines.  There is no easy way to determine if there is excess moisture in the propane system.   For peace of mind, have a propane technician check the system.  They may add alcohol to help control moisture and reduce the chances of freezing.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

Coach batteries must be kept fully charged or removed and stored inside to prevent them from freezing.  An automatic battery charger or good converter with a multi-stage charger should maintain the charge for normal winter temperatures, but batteries should be stored in a non-freezing environment if you expect -- or encounter extreme cold.  Check the electrolyte level.  Low electrolyte will prevent the batteries from charging properly.

Automotive systems in your motorhome or tow vehicle also need to be winterized.  If you've been keeping up with your routine maintenance your coolant should already be at the proper mixture to protect the engine from freezing.  Check the protection level in your radiator using a hydrometer. Make sure you are protected well below the temperatures you expect to experience -- just in case you get an unexpected cold snap.  It is a very good idea to change the oil before storing your vehicle for the winter.   Used oil often contains acids and contaminates that can damage metal parts while in storage.  Don't forget the oil in your generator.  And make sure the battery is fully charged.  A low battery can freeze fairly easily, but a fully charged on will withstand much colder temperatures. A frozen battery may crack, spilling acid all over the place and causing serious and expensive damage as well as destroying the battery.  Removing the batteries on very cold nights is a nuisance, but not nearly as much of a nuisance as cleaning up spilled battery acid if they freeze and break!

Provisions you keep in your RV, including edibles, medicine, and sundries, may need to be removed and stored inside during freezing weather so they don't freeze and break their containers or destroy the contents -- or both!  You won't like the results of either consequence!  Broken containers can be very messy and frozen contents may present you with a nasty surprise when you go to use them next season.  And don't forget the contents of your outside storage compartments.  Some cleaning supplies you store there may need protection to avoid freezing too.

Protecting the exterior from winter weather is also important.   If you don't have a covered or enclosed storage area for your RV, consider investing in a good RV cover.  You'll see people using ordinary tarps and they provide some protection but they don't breath and the coarse surface can damage the finish on your RV.  Tarps are OK if they are set up as shield around and over the vehicle but can damage the paint if they are placed in contact with the surface.   Make sure your vehicle is clean before covering it.  Any dirt or debris is likely to damage the surface as the cover moves.   If your RV is stored outside, be sure to at least protect the tires.   The rubber tends to dry out and crack when the tires sit for long periods of time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight and ozone.  Vinyl tire coves are fairly inexpensive and easy to use.   Ordinary contractor trash bags wrapped around the tires will protect them from the sun.  Keeping the rain and snow of off your RV also prevents intrusion and accumulation of moisture that could then freeze and cause additional damage.   If you have to leave your RV outside when it snows, brush off the accumulation before it gets deep enough to overload the roof or the vents on the roof.  The best way to do this is to use a long-handled broom from a ladder alongside the RV. W alking around on a slippery RV roof, which is usually strewn with obstacles that could be hidden in the snow you could trip over, is a recipe for a nasty fall!   That ground is a long way down and likely to be frozen.  Definitely not someplace you want to land.

Using your RV in winter.  Most people don't use their RVs during freezing weather, but they can make a good base camp for skiing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling if they are properly prepared.   Just keeping your RV furnace set to keep YOU warm doesn't necessarily protect your water systems against freezing.  You may need a heater or heat tape to protect holding tanks, dump valves, and exposed pipes.  A 100-watt bulb inside an exterior compartment that contains exposed water system components may prevent them from freezing -- IF you have 120-volt power to run it all or most of the time.   You will want to seal any potential drafts around doors, windows, and cabinets and use foam insulation panels in the windows to prevent heat loss.  Make sure your furnace is in good condition and you have plenty of winterized fuel.  The propane used in warm climates will gel or freeze in cold weather, so try to use up your summer supply before the cold weather hits and refill your tank with a winter mixture.  If your furnace isn't large enough to meet the demands of your winter outings, explore adding a second furnace or a permanently installed or portable catalytic heater to add more warmth.  If you plan to do a lot of winter camping, it will be worth the investment in a second furnace or a permanently mounted catalytic heater.  If you only need it occasionally, you can probably get by using a "tent heater" for auxiliary heat.  With any catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation.  While they don't out out smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen and even seasoned campers have suffocated when they forgot to leave some windows open.  Electrical heaters are an easy remedy if you have shore power or a generator and plenty of fuel, at least for daytime use.  You don't want to run the generator at night so plan on other ways of keeping warm during "quiet hours".  Personal comfort can often be increased at little cost by adjusting your wardrobe.   Thermal underwear, warm socks, and sweaters are usually enough in an RV or even in a tent.  For sleeping comfort you may need a sleeping bag with a lower temperature rating or need to add some extra blankets, quilts, or comforters.  One trick I've found works really well is to open up an extra sleeping bag and use it to cover two people in their individual or shared bags.   The shared bag provides additional insulation and retains heat from both bodies immediately around the sleeping bags instead of letting it escape into the surrounding air and trying to heat and entire tent or RV.

Setting up your RV for winter use.  Some RVs come from the factory already set up for winter use. If yours didn't, there are some things you can do to make it more winter friendly.  Factory setups usually include enclosed and heated holding tank compartments that may be difficult or impossible to do as a retrofit. You may have to resort to heat pads and tape to warm exposed tanks and plumbing. Exterior compartments are often lacking insulation and you may be able to remedy that with rigid styrofoam or foam/foil insulation installed to line the compartments and compartment doors. Insulation alone won't keep exterior compartments warm.  You may need to add heat tape or just install a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb in each compartment.  You'll need shore or generator power to run the lights, but since incandescent bulbs are about 90% efficient as heaters and 10% efficient as lights, they'll usually do a pretty good job of keeping the damaging chill away.   Generous and consistent use of foam/foil panels in your RV windows will greatly improve heat retention and interior comfort and reduce propane consumption.  You may need snow tires or tire chains to fit your RV tires for safe winter travel.  I like to use an old foam sleeping pad to lie on when installing tire chains.   Not only is it more comfortable than lying on cold, wet pavement or gravel, it helps keep you up off the snow or wet ground.

When using park hookups in winter you will need to wrap your water hose AND the faucet with heat tape.  Leaving the hose attached will defeat the self-draining features of the frost-free faucets and both the hose and the plumbing may freeze -- and YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairs.  Heated fresh water hoses are convenient to use but somewhat expensive and you'll still need heat tape to protect the exposed pipe and faucet it is connected to.

Attention tent campers! Just because you don't have an RV doesn't mean you're off the hook for winterization. Your camp stoves and lanterns should be properly cleaned and stored.   Make sure your tent is clean and dry.  Loosen those tightly strapped sleeping bags so you don't destroy the loft.   Open them up and hang them freely if you can.  Go through your provisions and make sure anything that might freeze or leak is put somewhere safe.  If you have portable hot water system or a porta-potto, be sure to drain and winterize it.   Check your ice chests to be sure they have been emptied out.  Empty your canteens or hydration packs.  Then take advantage of the "indoor months" to inventory, inspect, repair, replace, or upgrade your gear as needed.

Keep cozy all winter!