Having a good non-skid surface on the deck of your boat is essential to safety when moving about, especially out on the water where things are often tipsy-turvy and the deck is wet. Falling overboard can be fatal but even on-deck falls can cause serious injuries. You want to make sure you have every advantage when it comes to safety! A non-skid deck will reduce chances of you slipping. When moving about always try to maintain at least 3 points of contact to avoid falling. In rough seas or high winds, wear a safety harness and hook onto a secure lifeline.
We spent one season with the deck of one of our sailboats painted with topside paint without any non-skid additive. Never again! Even with a the textured finish on the fiberglass deck it was noticeably slippery. We repainted it with non-skid additive the next time it was out of the water.
There are a number of options for non-skid decking. The most common and easiest solution is painting the portions of the deck you walk on with a paint containing a non-skid additive. The high gloss paint or gelcoat that looks so good can be pretty slippery when wet. It is great for vertical surfaces and other places you won't be walking. The areas designed to walk on usually have a textured surface, but non-skid paint is still advised. Applying glossy topside paint over the texture nullifies its non-skid capabilities to some extent. Non-skid additives are usually made of sand or crushed walnut shells. Instead of mixing the additive into the paint some folks prefer to scatter the sand on top of wet paint. That may give a little more aggressive grip since the grains of sand aren't totally covered in paint as they are when added to the paint before application. There are a couple of things to consider when thinking about using the scatter method over the additive method. For one thing, the grains of sand are lying on top of the paint instead of embedded in the paint. That means they are more likely to get rubbed off so the extra grip may wear away fairly quickly. A second possible downside to the scatter method is that the raw sand will be rougher on bare hands, feet, and knees. Sand and crushed walnut shells, both common non-skid additives, have rather sharp particles than can be rough on bare skin. Since many of us like to go bare foot on our boats, that might be an issue. I'm thinking crushed walnut shells would probably be the roughest on bare feet. Crushed walnut shells are often used as the abrasive for sand blasting to remove paint and scour metal! There are also plastic additives that might be more comfortable, depending upon whether the particles are round or jagged. One I've seen (Clear-grip) is pretty fine, about like talcum powder, so it is easy on bare feet but still provides enough grip to keep you from slipping.
An option for more comfortable yet still safe non-skid paint is something called Softsand. It is essentially ground up rubber instead of sharp bits of silica. Like other additives it can be mixed with paint or scatter on top of wet paint. The softer rubber particles are more comfortable on bare feet and yet still provide excellent non-skid. Softsand is available in several colors making it a more attractive option when using the scatter method where it isn't covered in paint. I have had trouble finding a local retailer for Softsand and the lowest shipping from the manufacturer is about twice the cost of the additive itself, pretty much pricing it out of reach!
Another alternative to harsh sand or other non-skid additives with sharp particles (like crushed walnut shells) are synthetic (plastic) additives. The one I am familiar with (Clear-grip) is nearly a powder rather than rough particles so it should definitely be easy on the feet. I recently repainted all the non-skid surfaces on my Macgregor 25 sailboat using this product and am very pleased with the results. It was easy to mix consistently into the paint and to easy apply. The resulting surface is not slick yet is not abrasive. Our boat had previously been painted with regular Topside paint without any additive and even the textured portion was very shiny and slippery. The new surface is more of a satin finish (but not dull and it still looks really good) and feels good to the touch, kind of velvety and not slippery like the high gloss finish was. We liked it so well we used in on the wooden decks on our house too! When we bought the house the decks were so slippery the previous owner had nailed shingles on to the steps. Now, with the non-skid additive, the unsightly shingles or no longer necessary and the decks are safe even in Oregon's famous rain. Of course it works REALLY well on the boat deck too!
There are also non-skid flooring materials that can be applied to boat decks. Some even simulate teak to add a very attractive decorative solution. Others are colorful rubber materials. Since these are much thicker than any paint they usually last a lot longer but tend to be more expensive to buy and more difficult to install. If they aren't properly installed they may peel off, not only becoming unsightly but creating a trip hazard. Some may come with a self adhesive backing but using a directly applied adhesive is generally thought to be more durable and less likely to pull up. They are usually less likely to come off than paint when cleaned with a pressure washer, unless you direct the pressure under the edge! These flooring options usually give the surface a padded feeling that can be comfortable to bare feet. They can even help insulate your boat when used inside the cabin. Depending on the thermal properties of the material they are made of they may help insulate the deck and could be either hotter or cooler than the deck, depending on what they are made of. In general, darker colors will warm up more than lighter colors.
Regardless of whether you use paint or non-skid flooring proper surface preparation is critical to a satisfactory installation. The deck must be thoroughly cleaned and any old wax and dirt removed. It usually isn't necessary to strip the surface down to the bare material but you will need a clean surface to which paint or the glue for the flooring can securely adhere. You usually need to lightly sand any old surface to provide proper adherence for new paint or adhesive. If painting it will be absolutely necessary to mask off all the adjacent areas. If the flooring is self-adhesive you won't need to mask things off but if you have to apply adhesive separately masking is a good idea. Most adhesives make a mess of paint or gelcoat if not quickly cleaned up. Sometimes you can clean up wet adhesive with a solvent, but solvents may damage paint or gelcoat. Better to mask it off and keep things clean to start with. You may or may not need to sand the old surface, depending on how badly deteriorated it is. If the surface is chalky, oily, or dirty new paint or adhesive probably won't stick well unless you sand it down to solid material.
It is always helpful to apply at least two coast of paint almost any time you are painting. Multiple coats generally insures complete coverage and provides extra thickness for added durability. Paints thickened with non-skid additives will be harder to spread. Most topside paint and even non-skid paint suggests applying at least two coats. When using a non-skid additive only put it in the top coat. If for any reason you can't use two coats, make sure the one coat you do put down covers completely and try to make it consistently thick. When apply non-skid paint you not only need to cover the old surface for cosmetic appearance, you need a sufficient and consistent amount of non-skid particles evenly distributed everywhere. Be sure to thoroughly mix the additive into the paint before applying. If you are painting over the same color you will want to watch carefully to make sure you get complete coverage. Even with non-skid additive the new paint will usually be a bit shinier than the old until it dries so, if you see little dull spots you probably need more paint in that area.
Correct masking tasks time but it is SO worth it. For best result use blue painters tape or the green "frog" tape. The green tape is supposed to give a more precise edge. Both the green and blue tape will pull off easier than ordinary masking tape when you are done, especially if you leave it on for several days. Straight edges and sharp corners are easy to match with masking tape. Curves and radius corners usually require you to apply several short strips to form the proper curve. You may be surprised how nice a curve you can form with a bunch of straight edged pieces of tape. I usually mask off the major portions first, then keep using short pieces of tape to fill in any pointed corners until it makes a smooth arc. Another option is to cut the arc in the tape using a mat knife. Not too difficult a task for someone with a steady hand and a sharp eye. Masking is essential for painting and may be helpful when gluing down deck coverings to protect the areas you won't be covering from adhesive.
There are two major opinions about removing masking tape: wait for the paint to dry completely or remove it while the paint is still a little wet. First of all, don't remove the masking tape until after applying the final coat of paint. Then, for best results (at least in my experience), remove the tape about 1 hour after painting and pull it at a 45 degree angle to minimize chances of it tearing instead of pulling off. Sometimes, if you wait too long and the paint has completely dried the paint may stick to the tape so well that the masking tape may pull up paint along the edges. You can usually touch up any problems using an artist's brush or just mask it off and paint it again to ensure a clean, straight edge.
Inspect all the nearby areas to see if any paint (or adhesive) got accidentally on them. You will want to clean up any unwanted spots as soon as possible, before the paint completely cures. Paint that is dry to the touch will still be somewhat soft for several hours, usually allowing you to remove it without damaging the finish beneath it. You can usually remove new paint from old painted surfaces by gently wiping it with acetone or another solvent but be careful not to damage the surface under the unwanted paint. It is a good idea to test any solvent in an inconspicuous spot before using it in more visible locations so you don't make things worse!
Proper curing time after installation can be a significant factor in the appearance and durability of both paint and non-skid decking. Paint needs to dry thoroughly before you walk or put anything on it. Since boats are often kept outside protect any newly painted surfaces from rain and dusty winds until they have dried completely. Flooring adhesive needs time time to cure. Sometimes manufacturers will recommend using a heavy roller or placing weights on newly applied flooring for a certain amount of time to improve adhesion.
Good non-skid decks will look good and help keep you and your precious passengers safe. Old, faded decks can make your boat look bad even if everything else is shipshape. Worn decks can be slippery and dangerous. Non-skid paint may stain more easily than glossy topside paint so non-skid areas may need to be cleaned and/or repainted more frequently, both for appearance and to maintain the non-skid function. You may also want to clean up any spills more quickly on non-skid surfaces to reduce the chances of staining.
Most marine paints are oil based so cleanup involves the use of paint thinners or other powerful solvents. You may find some latex based paints that can be cleaned with soap and water, but because of the humidity associated with marine environments, most marine paints will be oil based. The only place I used latex on my sailboat was on the inside of the cabin and then I used outdoor rated, semi-glass paint. The semi-gloss is fairly easy to clean but doesn't reveal small imperfections in the underlying fiberglass as strongly as full gloss paint does. I like gloss for exterior surfaces and semi-glass inside the cabin.
Non-skid paint should be kept clean. The non-skid texture may attract dirt faster than glossy topside paint. Dirt and other debris can reduce its non-skid capabilities and often causes faster wearing. So keep it clean to stay safe and help it last and look good longer.
One more thing: Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) for painting. Painting involves several steps that require face masks and hand protection. Sanding is usually one of the preliminary steps to painting and can produce dust that is dangerous if inhaled. Many paints contain highly volatile solvents that put off toxic fumes. A face mask, or better yet, a respirator, will protect your nose and lungs from dangerous contaminates. Gloves will protect your hands against abrasives and the chemicals in paint. I like to use something like mechanics gloves for sanding and latex gloves for painting, If using any kind of spray paint (cans or spray guns) eye protection (googles) are also a good idea. Ordinary glasses or sunglasses won't seal out the vapors that could irritate and damage the sensitive tissues of your eyes.
No slip ups!
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