RV Restoration versus Repair

What is the difference between 'restoration' and 'repair' and why should you care?   One big difference will be the difficulty, extent, and cost of restoration versus an adequate but not 'authentic' repair.  How much time, effort, and money, are willing/able to put into your RV?   Can you find parts to restore your vehicle?   Is there any reason you need to keep it authentic?

Restoration is restoring a vehicle to its original condition as closely as possible.   There is a particular pride in maintaining a vehicle in original condition.  Those who restore classic cars are very meticulous in tracking down OEM parts to maintain the integrity of their restorations.  They are usually concerned about meeting show standards or sustaining an authenticity that will support high sale values. Since there isn't currently much of a market for "classic" show RVs, you probably won't be driven to adhere to the level of originality imposed on restorers of classic cars, but for personal pride you may want to do the best you can.  It is usually easier to replace matching parts than to have to modify the installation to accommodate alternate solutions.   Restoration parts may sometimes be found at distributors who specialize in obsolete inventory -- "New Old Stock" (NOS) is the term to look for.   RV salvage yards and sometimes even your local auto junk yard may have used components to replace missing or damaged pieces of your RV.  Restorers of classic cars sometimes resort to having parts re-created by machine shops when they can't find original replacements.  This can be a very expensive and time consuming process.  While I won't tell you NOT to try this approach, just be aware it may take some doing to even find a shop who can and will do the work you need and expect to pay handsomely for any custom work like that.  Having the old part -- or surviving pieces of it -- may assist them in designing and manufacturing a replacement.  If you are attempting to restore an older RV, you will want to try to replace any damaged or dysfunctional appliances with the closest replacements you can find.  That will probably mean searching salvage yards or even buying a similar "donor" vehicle you can scavenge for parts -- IF you can find one!  You may not need an exact match (brand and model) to get appropriate appliances, just one of approximately the same year for replacement appliances but you'll need a very close match for body parts.  I once salvaged a box full of cabinet hardware from a camper in a junk yard that matched the hardware in my vintage Smuggler trailer.  It was really good to have that box of hinges and latches to make repairs as needed over the years.

Repair is fixing things that are broken or damaged.  Using original equipment equivalents for all repairs is desirable, but not critical.  They will fit better and you won't have to make any additional modifications. However, for older units, finding an exact replacement may be difficult if not impossible. A simple example would be taillights. Exact replacements may be hard to find, but new lights that will be functionally equivalent and legal, though cosmetically different, can be easily obtained.  You might even want to upgrade to LED tail lights.   If your goal is maintaining your RV in legal, usable condition, simple repairs and upgrading parts to new versions is perfectly acceptable.   A hole in the roof caused by an errant limb might be successfully patched, but if you were doing a restoration, you may have to replace the entire roof covering.  A hole or tear in an exterior side panel might be camouflaged using a residential furnace vent cover as an acceptable repair, where restoration would require replacing the damaged panel with an exact match.  The vent cover protects the damaged area and often provides a cosmetically acceptable solution, allowing the owner continued use of the vehicle without expensive repairs.  I've personally used this solution on a couple of enclosed motorcycle trailers.   When repairing an RV, you can replace broken or damaged appliances with newer models.   I would try to match them as closely as possible to the originals to reduce modifications required for installation, but other than that, upgrading to newer, more efficient appliances with added features may be a very good move and might reward you with increased functionality, performance, efficiency, and improved resale value.

Structural repairs can be expensive and time consuming, whether you're doing a restoration or just a repair.  Structural damage occurs from impact, age and normal vehicle twisting and vibration, and by water and sun damage.  Fixing structural problems usually involves removing the interior or exterior paneling in the affected area and replacing and reinforcing the underlying framework.  Take care not to damage the paneling when you remove it so it can be reinstalled.  Do a careful analysis of the problem before beginning any structural repairs.  Loose or damaged cabinets are often a sign of underlying problems, but in some cases the damage may be limited to the cabinets themselves and you don't want to tear your walls or ceiling apart if it is only a cabinet problem.

If you choose to repair rather than restore your RV you will want to search for replacement components that closely match the size and any gas, electric, or plumbing connections on the originals.  Exact replacements, while not required for repairs as they are for restorations, are still a good idea since they will save time and effort and maintain original fit, function, and appearance.  Furnaces and heaters have specific vent configurations for both the combustion (air intake and flue) and for heat distribution. Some older furnaces don't use fans or have any distribution outlets. They just rely on convection within the coach to carry warm air from the front vent panel to the rest of the room.  Do not try to add a fan to these types of furnaces unless you can get an approved fan conversion kit from the original manufacturer.  You might be able to move air around where you want it using external fans.  Upgrading stoves, refrigerators, and hot water heaters usually involves modifying the cabinet or compartment to fit the new unit as replacements are likely to be a different size or shape.  You may also have to lengthen or shorten gas and electrical lines.   Old gas refrigerators often didn't have any electrical power requirements other than the interior light but modern, computer-controlled units do, so you might have to run some new wiring.  Older hot water heaters had to be lit from the outside of the coach.  Newer models have electronic ignition and all you have to do is flip a switch, again requiring some new wiring.  The water heater switch is usually part of a general control panel, but in a retrofit situation you may just want to install the switch in a convenient internal location near the water heater since running wires to the existing control panel could be difficult or even impossible.   Sometimes you can buy new or good used cushions to replace damaged, missing, or worn out dinette cushions.  If your cushions are still structurally sound they can be reupholstered.  And it is possible to replace the foam if it has been damaged beyond use.  You probably can't match the original fabric on older models so even in a restoration scenario you may have to settle for something close.  If you're really lucky you may find extra matching material in valances, pillows, or under chairs and sofas you can salvage to make some small repairs. In repair mode, you can choose any new fabric you like.   Sturdy fabrics with a Scotchguard treatment will resist dirt and staining and provide years of good service.  Unless you're changing window treatments and flooring you will probably want to stick with a color that is compatible with the existing components.  For a restoration you would want to try to match upholstery patterns, but for repair you may want to upgrade to give your RV a newer look.

Exterior decals on older units may be worn or faded.  Finding exact replacements may be very difficult.   You might luck out and find someone with NOS decals tucked away in storage somewhere but more likely you'll have to either do your best to revive the existing decals or opt to duplicate the design in paint.   For a repair you can repaint your RV anyway you choose.   For a restoration you will want to retain the original appearance as much as possible.  You may be able to get a sign shop to create replacement decals for logos and complex designs.  It will help a lot if you can come up with a good digital photo of what you need.  We needed to replace a decal on one side of a motorhome and, fortunately, the one on the other side wasn't badly damaged so we just took a picture of it and had them reverse it for the other side.  You might be able to take photos of decals in good condition on units for sale or maybe even find some photos on line can use.  If worse comes to worst, you might need to have a graphic designer create a digital file from which your replacements could be printed.  You may have to resort to purchasing vinyl sheets from which you can hand cut replacement designs for swirls and other large graphics.  You can buy simple stripes in a wide variety of colors and widths so you can usually replace worn, faded stripes pretty easily.  Often the old stripe will leave some kind of shadow you can follow to install the new one.  If not, carefully measure and mark a pencil line to guide you in placing the new one correctly.  Vinyl striping is usually somewhat flexible and can be stretched to conform to gently curved surfaces.  If you have sharp curves in the design you may have to contact a sign shop and have a decal custom made.  You might also be able to hand paint damaged stripes or lettering to restore them.  We used automotive touch up spray paint.  We sprayed some paint in a small container and used various sized watercolor brushes to paint the stripes and the peeled and faded letters of the brand name.

Badly rusted chrome parts can usually be cleaned and re-chromed.   This might apply to bumpers, grilles, mirrors, and door handles.  The good news is that most RVs don't have a lot of chrome these days.  The parts have to be removed and thoroughly cleaned.  New chrome is applied in an electroplating process. It isn't a quick or cheap solution but properly done, the parts will come back looking like brand new.   For a first rate restoration, re-chroming is almost mandatory and is a great way to repair rusted parts on any older unit.  If the rust isn't too bad, you may be able to clean and polish the item in place.  One way to begin removing gross rust is really cheap: rub it with a copper penny.  The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't damage remaining chrome.  Then finish the job with a good metal or chrome polish.  If the chrome is worn through you can mitigate further damage by painting the raw metal.  Try using one of the metallic chrome spray paints.  They are inexpensive, easy to use, and while they don't quite lay down a perfect chrome finish like the one on the cap of the can, they give an appearance that is much better than rusty spots and prevent further rust.

Tire sizes on some older rigs may now be obsolete but any reputable tire shop should be able to match you up with closest modern equivalent.  You will want to pay particular attention to the outside diameter, wheel width, and dual spacing to make sure your replacements will fit and function properly.  It would be a good idea to weigh the coach at all four wheels to determine the load rating you'll need and to inflate your new tires to the correct pressure based on the weight of each corner for optimum performance.  If weighing isn't practical (you need to take the rig to a truck scale), inflate the tires per the owner's manual or ID plate.  If you have no indication, start by inflating the tires to the  maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall and adjust it from there.  Under-inflation can result in poor handling, overheating, and blowouts.  Over-inflation typically causes rapid wear in the center of the tread and makes the vehicle feel skittish due to lack of contact with the road.  I once put new tires on an Isuzu 4x4 pickup and it felt really dangerous until I backed off on the inflation.  When I went back to the dealer to complain I happened to notice my tire tracks where I'd driven through a small puddle in the parking lot:  they were only about 1" wide!  The tires, inflated to the maximum pressure indicated on the side-wall, were way over-inflated for the light weight mini truck.  Letting some air out of the tires until the footprint was normal quickly restored proper handling.

Keep it going!