Installing RV Awnings

RV awnings come in a variety of awning styles, ranging from "bag awnings" that are rolled up and carried inside the RV to elaborate power awnings with wind sensors that automatically roll them up if the wind kicks up.  As you might expect, there is also a wide range of prices.  RVs with slide outs often have automatic awnings installed over each slide that roll out when the slide is extended. Window awnings are nice to have.  They provide shade and can be used to prevent light rain from entering open windows letting you enjoy the fresh air during a mild rain storm.   Stand alone awnings are commonly referred to as "canopies" and aren't attached to an RV.

Permanently mounted manual awnings are the most popular, although power awnings as standard equipment are catching up.  Manual awnings are, of course, less expensive than the power version.   Both roll up against the top of the side of your RV and have arms that fasten to brackets near the top and bottom of the side wall.  They can usually be used either with the arms still attached to the bottom brackets or in "patio mode", where the arms are moved out to a vertical position and staked to the ground.  When still attached to the brackets, the arms form an angle from the roller on the outer edge of the awning to the bottom brackets, sometimes creating an obstacle that people bump their heads on.  When using the arms in patio mode they should be staked down to prevent unwanted movement.   In patio mode the supports are vertical at each corner.  To further stabilize patio awnings, you can install an awning strap.  This wide nylon strap is secured on either end by corkscrew shaped anchors that screw into the ground.  The strap wraps over about the middle of the awning from the front of the vehicle to the back to hold it down.  Another useful accessory for patio awnings is pair of "de-flappers".  These devices clamp to the awning fabric and fasten to the end rafters to reduce flapping of the fabric in mild breezes. I 've seen two different types, one that fastens around the end rafters with velcro straps and another with rigid plastic clamps that are tightened around the awning arm.  Long awnings tend to sag in the middle and benefit greatly from an extra (optional) support in the middle.  A set of optional supports marketed under the name "Awnbrella" can be used to lift the awning and stretch it kind of like an umbrella to give it a form that lets rain run off without puddling.   Another good helper is an awning clamp that wraps around the awnings to prevent them from unrolling in the wind during travel.  Having experienced an awning coming unrolled on the freeway, I have a great appreciation for awning clamps.  Manual awnings usually have an awning wand to snag a loop in the middle of the rolled up awning to pull it open.  The one that typically comes with the awning is a rod about 5/16" in diameter and about 3 1/2' long.  It has a loop on one end that serves as a handle and the other end has about an inch bent at a right angle to slip into the awning loop.  If you've lost yours or just want something that isn't so big to carry around and keep track of you can buy telescoping versions that push down to about a foot long and can be stored in one of the galley drawers along with kitchen utensils.  I tried one of these and the tip came off the first time I used it.  The telescoping awning hook is a really good idea -- if it were better made!  While the telescoping feature makes it easy to store it also means you can't use it to push the lock on the awning roller or use it to push bedding into place on corner and over-the-cab beds.

Power awnings are becoming more popular but are still fairly pricey.   Power awnings can be extended or retracted at the touch of a button.   They also come with options for rain and wind sensors to automatically retract them when rain or wind is detected and with remote controls so you can operate them from the comfort of your camp chair or even some distance away if the wind kicks up unexpectedly or from inside your RV if you don't want to go out in the rain!  If you do roll them up when it is raining, be sure to open them up and let them dry out as soon as  you can to prevent mold and mildew from destroying the fabric.

Bag awnings are usually less expensive but aren't quite as convenient to use.  They can also be used on more than one vehicle by simply installing an awning rail on each vehicle.  Bag awnings have one edge that attaches to the awning rail on the RV.  The outside edge is supported by 2 or more poles like tent poles and secured by guy ropes, like a tent.

Window awnings also use the same type of rail as other awnings but the rail is screwed into the framework around the window, directly above the top exterior window frame.  Window awnings, like permanently attached patio awnings, have attached arms, but no top brackets.   The top of the arms are attached to the roller. You will need to install bottom brackets.  Arms on window awnings are fixed length, so you have to install the brackets wherever the end of the arm strikes the sidewall when the awning is open.  Sometimes this will be in line with the framework around the window, but if not, simply securing the brackets through the RV "skin" with pop rivets or short metal screws is usually sufficient. You will also need to install a little bracket to fasten the awning pull strap to to hold the open awning in place.

To install any awning you will need an awning rail attached to the vehicle.  For patio awnings, this is usually attached just below or sometimes behind the drip rail at the top of the side wall. You need a sturdy support behind the thin wall paneling to screw the rail to.  This is the most critical factor for installing awnings.   Before installing any awning, make sure there is sufficient room above your door so the door will open without hitting the extended awning.  In addition to the awning rail itself you will need dozens of self-tapping screws and enough butyl tape (sometimes called "dum dum tape" to match the length of the awning rail.  The tape seals the rail to the vehicle and seals around the screws to prevent rain intrusion into the side wall.  A power drill/driver is pretty much required, although you could get by installing the screws by hand if you drill pilot holes first.  Make sure you don't kink or pinch the opening of the rail.   Once the rail is in place, you can slide the awning into it. For bag awnings, installation is done.  All that is left is unrolling the awning and installing and staking down the poles.  For permanently mounted awnings you may want to put a short screw through the mounting rib that slides into the rail and into the rail to keep the awning from sliding forward and back.  The next step for permanently mounted awnings is to install the top brackets.  Make sure the awning is fully retracted and mark the location for the brackets on each end. Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws, which are much larger than the self-tappers used to secure the rail. Typically these are like 1/4" lag screws.  Once the top brackets are securely screwed on, using a level to make sure the arms are vertical, mark the location for the bottom brackets.   The legs are adjustable and you must find a place on the wall with solid backing to fasten the brackets to.  This usually is at floor line.   Once you have decided where to put the brackets, make sure the arms are straight up and down, mark the holes, drill pilot holes, and install the screws.   Your awning should now be ready to use.

For power awnings you'll need to install the wiring.  An interior switch will control extending and retracting the awning.  There may also be a remote control that let's you stand outside and control the awning.   You'll have to drill a hole through the side wall to route the wires.  Make sure will have access to the wiring inside the vehicle.  Find a source of power and a place to connect a ground wire and run the wires.  Hiding the wiring inside the bottom shelf of cabinets is way to achieve a clean installation -- and you usually have 12-volt power available in light fixtures you might be table to tap into.   However, keep in mind the motors on the awning will draw significantly higher amperage than lighting.  The best way of wiring the awning is to give it its own circuit and fuse.   Tapping into the wiring for lights may overload the circuit.  Upgrading the fuse to keep it from blowing would allow the existing wiring to overheat, possibly causing a fire. NEVER use a higher amp fuse than a circuit was originally designed for. Doing so turns the wiring into the fuse so the wiring melts before the fuse blows!  Make sure you seal the hole where the wiring goes through the wall using silicone sealer.

 
Some variations for bag awnings.  I found the poles and guy ropes for a bag awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer were cumbersome and often got in the way when moving my dirt bikes around so I rigged a way to install the poles against the bottom of the trailer.  I simply put large screws into the bottom edge of the side wall at approximately the angle the poles would be when the awning was extended.   The bottom end of the poles slip over these screws instead of resting on the ground.  Then I added eye-bolts close by and used light weight ratchet straps from the eye-bolts to the upper end of the poles at the extended awning roller.  That way the guy ropes and the poles are aligned and mostly out of they way when walking under the awning.

Finally, you could use a canopy and not have to attach it to your RV at all.   Free standing canopies are usually less expensive than attached awnings, but are less convenient to transport and to use.   It could be used next to an RV in lieu of an RV awning.  One possible downside is that a gust of wind might slam it into the RV, damaging both the canopy and the RV.  You can use a free standing canopy with your RV or take it with  you tent camping, so it offers a little more flexibility than an attached RV awning.   Canopies may be self-supporting like the famous E-Z-up models or have to be tied down with guy ropes.  There are even some these days with structure similar to dome tents that are light weight and easy to put together.  A free standing canopy (often called a "dining fly ") can be set up over your picnic table if needed for shade or rain protection.  Many canopies include a center pole for extra headroom.  Dining flys omit the center pole since it would land smack in the middle of the picnic table.

Now you have made the shade!