RV Camping Without Hookups (Boondocking)

Camping without hookups is often called "dry camping", "camping off the grid", or "boondocking".  While technically you are "dry camping" if you stop in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot, it is usually used to describe more extensive camping in a remote, primitive camping area.  In some cases there may be designated camp sites but no hook ups, as is sometimes the case in primitive Forest Service campgrounds.  Very often, boondocking occurs on BLM or other public lands in open or dispersed camping areas where there are no designated camp sites.   The same principles of self-contained operation apply any time you aren't where you have full hookups.  Boondocking is probably more different from using commercial campgrounds with hook ups for RVers than it is for tent campers.  Tent campers usually don't rely too much on camp ground amenities, although they do often benefit from water and sanitation stations and sometimes even electricity.   The ability to go boondocking is a major consideration for most people who buy RVs, even though something like 70% of RV owners report that they mostly stay in full hook-up campgrounds.   Personally, in more than 30 years of RVing I have seldom stayed in a full hook-up campground.  When our kids were growing up we spent almost every holiday weekend boondocking and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.

Even though surveys show about 3/4s of all RV owners camp in full hookup campgrounds, those same owners chose RVs that are self contained and capable of camping "off grid".   My family and most of my camping buddies are in the other 25%, mostly boondocking in remote areas where we can ride our OHVs and being self  contained is essential.

One of the first considerations for boondocking is where to go.  Some forest service campgrounds accept RVs but have no hook-ups.  In Western states there are many open camping areas on BLM land where you can camp virtually anywhere.   Be aware that some locations do restrict camping to designated areas so be sure to verify your options BEFORE you go.   In primitive forest service campgrounds the spaces will usually be clearly designated and marked.  In some USFS domains camping is allowed within 150' of any Forest Service Road, but always check with the local ranger station before blithely driving off the road somewhere.  Rangers can usually guide you to the best places even when there are no specific restrictions.  That can mean safer and easier access for your RV and to various trails and activities.  In open camping areas you can choose where to set up camp. Try first to use areas that have been used before.  Doing so usually makes your setup easier and minimizes the impact on the environment.  Using an existing site usually means someone else has already taken to time to locate the most level spots for RVs or setting up tents and may have already created a rock fire pit.  It usually means there is reasonably good access so you won't get stuck or damage your vehicle.  If you have to set up in a pristine location, it is a good idea to walk the site before you drive onto it to avoid unnecessary damage to both your vehicle and the site.  Having a wheel drop into a gopher hole or tunnel could damage your rig and/or get you stuck.  Rocks hidden in the brush might bend wheels, damage suspension, or poke holes in transmission pans or oil pans  Figure out the best place to park, where you want to set up your tent, if you're using one, where you want your picnic table and where to build your campfire.  If you can determine the direction of prevailing winds, try to park with your vehicle nosed into the wind.   Some beach areas offer off-grid camping.  There are several wonderful places along Highway 1 on the California coast that we have enjoyed.  Open camping directly on the beach is often prohibited but if access is allowed, exercise caution to avoid getting stuck in the sand or damaging your tires on buried obstacles such as broken bottles.

 If you are camping with a group, make sure you pick a spot with sufficient room for everyone. The best way to organize a group camp is the old wagon train format and "circle the wagons", with individual RVs or tents surrounding a central common campfire and group meeting area.  It is most convenient if all the doors face the center of the circle where  you will most likely build a communal campfire, but facing the front of vehicles into the circle might allow you to get more rigs around the campfire.  Parking with the door to toward the center puts everyone's awning and patio space where they can view each other and share in the festivities.  It also makes your access to the campfire better.

Choosing your camp site.   When camping in hot weather it is always nice to have a shady campsite.  Of course you aren't going to find much shade in the desert!  Shade is your friend, regardless of whether you're camping a tent or an RV.  Because many RVs have air conditioners, having a shady place to set up your tent will be more important than a shady place to park your RV.  However, having shade for outdoor leisure activities will always be helpful in warmer weather.  The only time you may want to avoid shade is if it is provided by a single tall tree that might attract lightning if there are any storms in the forecast.  Camping under trees can also be hazardous if you get wind, which can cause dead branches to come crashing down on you.  Another major consideration will be choosing a site that will not be in danger of flooding if there you get any rain -- locally or in nearby mountains.  Avoid putting your tent or your RV in depressions that may collect water if it rains and don't ever camp in a dry wash or old stream bed.  Even areas that appear to be fairly "high and dry" may be subject to runoff when it rains.  I have gotten up some mornings to find the grass mat under my awning all but completely buried in mud when the previous nights' rain created enough run off to deliver a powerful stream under my RV.  Although it wasn't obvious until it rained, we were parked smack in the main path of run off from nearby hills.  Had I set a up a tent in the same location it would undoubtedly been flooded out during the rain.

If you are tent camping in a primitive area, your main concerns that will be different than camping in a developed campground, will be water and sanitation.   You may also have to build your own fire pit (see previous post on Campfire Safety).   Since there won't be a handy faucet to re-fill your water jugs, you'll need to bring along enough to last your entire trip.  Lacking access to even a primitive pit toilet, you'll have to provide your own latrine.  A "porta-potty" is a convenient, portable toilet that is especially appreciated by the ladies.  The only drawbacks are they can be heavy, take up space, and the capacity is very limited so they have to be dumped regularly.  If you don't have access to a dump station or a toilet you can haul your porta-potty to, you may fill it long before your trip is over.   Other options include a simple portable toilet that consists of a toilet seat with legs like a camp stool.  Plastic bags are attached to the bottom to capture the waste.  You then seal the bags with twist ties and dispose of them when you have access to appropriate facilities to do so.  In a more primitive situation, you will need to dig your own latrine, if doing so isn't prohibited by local regulations.  If you are going to be camped in the same place for several days, you may want to make a multiple use latrine.  Dig a hole or trench a safe distance from camp, trails, roads, and water sources -- always at least 200 feet from any water.   Choose a spot where trees, bushes, or rocks provide some natural cover for privacy or erect a temporary shelter, such as a shower enclosure.  For comfort and convenience you might want to use logs or poles to make a seat over the trench or modify a camp chair.  Leave a shovel at the latrine so each user can shovel some dirt over their "deposits".  Then at the end of your outing, be sure to cover the trench completely.  For short term needs, dig a small hole for individual uses and cover it over immediately when you are done.   Never dig a latrine near any well, lake, spring, or stream.  Make sure you are at least 200 feet from any water source.  Squatting over a hole is not comfortable for most people in Western society , but it is actually a fairly natural position for complete evacuation. It just takes some getting used to for most modern humans who are accustomed to sitting on the "throne".

Boondocking in an RV requires conservation of resources if you want to retain the benefits of your RV.   The three major concerns are battery power, water, and holding tanks.  If you use water and partially fill your holding tanks on the way to your primitive site, stop and dump your tanks and refill your fresh water as close to your site as possible before you arrive.   Also make sure your batteries area fully charged either by using a battery charger before you leave home or by them charging while you're driving.

If you run your batteries down you won't have light and, if your furnace has a fan, you won't have any heat so you need to maintain your batteries.  Many modern propane appliances have a circuit board that also requires 12-volt power for the appliance to operate.  Start off your trip with your batteries fully charged.  Then run the vehicle engine or the on board generator to charge the batteries each day.   The vehicle alternator is usually the best option for charging your batteries.  The vehicle alternator is higher amperage and has regulated voltage whereas the battery chargers in most converters and in many automotive battery chargers are lower amperage and unregulated. Unregulated chargers can fry your batteries.   Usually running your vehicle for about an hour will bring your batteries back up to full charge.   Running the vehicle engine at idle will probably use about the same amount of gas as running the generator to charge your batteries.  I have an automatic battery charger set up so whenever I have 120 volt power it charges my batteries.  That way, when I run the generator for any reason (power A/C, run microwave, operate entertainment systems) the batteries are charging.   Conserve battery power by limiting the use of 12 volt lighting and appliances. LED lights use a whole lot less power than standard incandescent bulbs, but today they are still a little pricey in the first place.  Use your gas lanterns or battery powered lanterns and flashlights whenever you can.   Schedule your activities to take advantage of daylight hours or take advantage of moonlight or light from your campfire.  Candles and torches might be used to illuminate campsites, giving a comfortable, almost romantic ambiance.  Solar panels are sometimes a good way to maintain your batteries but you'll need some large panels, not just the little 4"x8" panels that plug into your cigarette lighter.

Your next most important resource is water.  You have a limited supply of water in your fresh water tank.  You can supplement that by bringing jugs, jerry cans, drums, or collapsible bladders of additional water and adding them to your tank as needed.   If you RV doesn't have a gravity fill port, you may need to rig a portable pump to transfer water from you backup supply to your tank.  If you have a ladder to get on the roof of your RV you might be able to carry your spare water up there and let gravity fill your fresh water tank. However, water is very heavy and carrying it on the roof isn't the best idea.  Conserve water as much as possible.  Save the water from the shower in jugs or a dishpan when it is running to warm up and use that for other routine tasks.  Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or crumpled newspaper instead of rinsing them.  When washing or showering, only run the water as needed to wet your hands, face, or body or to rinse off the soap.  Turn the water off while you're lathering and scrubbing.  If your RV doesn't have a shutoff on the shower head you can usually add one fairly easily and economically.  You might even try developing good water conservation habits at home.  It may be convenient but it is just a waste of water to let the faucet run while you're brushing your teeth.  You probably won't see a noticeable difference in your water bill, but creating a habit of conservation will be helpful when you go camping where it definitely will make a difference.

Limiting water usage will also help with the third concern:   filling holding tanks.   By limiting water usage you will automatically reduce filling of your holding tanks.  You may be able to get rid of some of the water from your gray water tank by using it to put out your campfire each evening. DO NOT use sewage from the black water tank!  Its is unsanitary as well as very unpleasant and in most places is illegal.  Avoid using the toilet in your RV when you can.   IF there are pit toilets nearby, take advantage of them.   Sometimes they smell really bad, but better to endure a few minutes in a bad smelling toilet than to have your black water tank back up and make your whole RV smell really bad for a really long time -- or have your tanks fill up and not be able to use the toilet at all! Using an outside latrine, just like tent campers, is an option and one you may be reduced to if you fill your holding tanks.  There is some debate over whether it is better to send the guys out in remote locations to "water a dry bush" and conserve holding tank space or allow the liquid to help break down solid wastes.  I usually vote for conserving the space when boondocking.  The ladies in your group will appreciate your not filling the holding tanks too quickly!  For best results, try to monitor the liquid level in your black water tank.  If solids are piling up on the bottom of the thank, you'll need more liquid to maintain normal septic tank functions to break down waste and control odor as well as to facilitate dumping.  How do you monitor liquid in the black water tank?  About the only way is to open the toilet valve and look inside. Yccch!  Not a pleasant task, but better than suffering the consequences of over filling or too much waste build up.  Or just eyeball it each time you flush the toilet so you know how its doing throughout your trip.  If you begin to see solid wastes piling up, drain a bucket or two of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.

Fuel is another resource you need to keep an eye on.   If your on board generator uses the same fuel as the vehicle engine, the tap for the generator fuel line is usually situated higher in the tank than the motor fuel line so you don't run yourself completely out of fuel using the generator.  Bring along extra fuel if you have any doubts about how long your fuel will last.  Propane for you stove, furnace, refrigerator, and hot water heater is another limited resource.   Use all appliances as sparingly as possible.  Shut off the hot water heater when hot water is not needed for a while (like over night). There is some difference of opinion about shutting off the hot water heater.   Some folks believe it will take less fuel to maintain it over night instead of re-heating it every morning.  Personally, I like having hot water available all the time and not having to remember to turn it back on and then wait for it to heat to shower or shave in the morning.   If you're particularly concerned about the subject, perform your own experiments and see what works best for you.   Make sure your RV is well insulated and not drafty and windows and doors are closed on cool nights so your furnace doesn't run unnecessarily; limit opening the fridge.  Only light the stove burners as you need them and turn them off as soon as you're done.  If your stove has pilot lights, turn off the pilots when you're not using the stove.   Speaking of fuel, make sure you have enough fuel to make the round trip to your remote destination.  If there is any question of running out of fuel, top off your fuel tanks as close to your destination as you can get and carry extra fuel.  For travel trailers you can simply bring extra propane tanks.  Motorhomes with permanently mounted propane tanks can be fitted with an "Extend-a-Stay" kit that allows you to tap into an external propane tank to augment your on board tank.

Energy conservation is a usually a primary concern for both RVers and tent campers. You can minimize use of lantern fuel and battery power for lighting by matching your schedule to daylight and making use of natural light as much as possible. Conserve cooking fuels by only using stoves when actively cooking. If your RV range has pilot lights, turn them off between uses. If you choose to stay up after dark, focus on light-free activities like star-gazing or work by the light of your campfire. Of course you may need to ration your firewood too, since there are few places remaining where it is legal to gather firewood and where it is, it will probably be pretty well cleared out.  One word of caution:  these systems will not provide extra propane to operate a propane powered generator like those sometimes found on diesel motorhomes.  The extended tanks provide vapor only and the generator requires liquied propane.

You will need to plan your provisions to make it through your entire outing without having to go to the store.  Plan all your meals in advance and be frugal in your use of basic ingredients so they'll last the whole trip.   Prepare foods only as you need them to avoid waste.  You can save chili and stew and re-heat it for a second meal, but making too many pancakes or scrambled eggs would probably be a waste.

You may have cell phone access in some remote areas, but don't count on it. Sometimes you can increase your range by using an external antenna instead of just the tiny little one on the phone. An antenna mounted on the roof of your RV just might be enough higher and more powerful to work when standing on the ground doesn't. Of course you can try standing on the roof of your RV for emergency communications. There are also booster systems you can buy but they are pretty expensive. Many of the more recent cell phones lack an external antenna connection so check whether yours does or not before putting out money for an external antenna.  Booster systems are often wireless so it doesn't matter whether your phone has an external zntenna port.

Local TV channels are available in some areas, but given that boondocking usually implies going out to some remote location, reception may be very limited.   Local channels are usually picked up using a 'bat wing' antenna installed on the roof and operated via inside controls that crank it up and rotate it to obtain the best signal.  Most include a signal booster to give you better range.

Satellite TV channels can be accessed using a dish on or beside your RV anytime you have a clear view of the southern sky.  This usually isn't a problem when camping in the desert or on the beach, but could be in the forest or mountains.  Some high end models have automatic tracking devices but you will need to manually align most satellite dishes so you need a little booklet to tell you about where to initially aim your dish.  There are fairly inexpensive aiming devices that make it a lot easier to align your satellite dish.  Bring along your favorite tapes or DVDs just in case.  High-end satellite systems can even be used on the road, but, of course, the extra tracking and aiming components make them a lot more expensive than manual systems.

Camping off the grid is fun!