RV Storage

Unless you are living in your RV full time, you're going to need a place to store it when it is not in use.   And even if you are living it, there are it is good to protect it against the elements.  Storing it at your home is the usually the most convenient and secure place for it but even if you have room for it some communities have restrictions on parking your RV on the street and some even restrict parking it on your own property.  You can usually park your RV in front of your house or in your driveway for a day or two at a time to prepare for or clean up after a trip.  The CC&Rs for your property may also include restrictions so be sure to check into that before spending a pile of cash to build RV access or storage.  I've seen CC&Rs that even prohibit storing a recreational vehicle, like a van camper, tent trailer or even a boat in your garage!   The justification?  To maintain property values.   Yeah, like having a $100,000 RV beside your garage is going to bring down the neighborhood!

If live where you get freezing winter weather, you will still need to winterize it to prevent freeze damage  -- unless you store it in a heated garage. If your RV is equipped for winter use and you have access to shore power where it is stored, you may be able to get by without winterizing your water systems.  Be sure everything is properly insulated and heated to prevent any freeze damage and monitor the status.   If power is lost or a bulb you are using to heat an external compartment burns out, serious damage may occur if you don't catch and correct it quickly.  Better safe than sorry, so if you live where it freezes, winterize your fresh water system and holding tanks to prevent damage.

Commercial storage facilities are available in most communities where you can store an RV for a monthly fee.  A properly operated facility will include some kind of security but they will still not assume any liability for your vehicle and miscreants may still jump the fence and wreak havoc.  Make sure your own insurance will cover any theft or damage that might occur while it is in storage. The standard 12-volt converter on most RVs does not work well as a battery charger.  More expensive converters or inverters, with multi-stage chargers WILL keep your batteries charged.  If you don't have a built-in multi-stage charger, invest in a maintenance chargers like a Battery Tender.   A simple trickle charger may help, but won't sense and condition batteries like a multi-stage charger will.   Most storage yards will not have electrical service for you to plug your RV into.  You may need to stop by and run the engine or generator or take it for a drive once a month or so.  Driving it once a month is also beneficial to tires and keeping seals and other parts lubricated.

If you have the option to store your RV on your property, you can save the cost of renting storage elsewhere and your vehicle will be convenient for maintenance, trip preparation and cleanup and upgrades.   You can plug it in a day or so before each trip to cool the fridge and take your time loading provisions.  You can install maintenance battery chargers and leave it plugged in all the time to keep the batteries charged while in storage.   You will have it handy if you need it for an emergency shelter or as a spare room for visitors.

Whenever you put your RV into storage, make sure the holding tanks are empty and the batteries are fully charged.  If you store it at home you may be able to connect to shore power and install maintenance chargers to keep your batteries in peak condition.  If you don't have maintenance chargers or don't have access to shore power, disconnect the batteries so there is no extra drain on them during storage.  Many modern appliances have components that draw a small amount of electric current even when not in use.  Disconnecting the batteries, either by installing a battery disconnect or removing one of the cables, prevents these parasitic draws from running down your batteries.  Even without anything connected, 12-volt batteries will loose about 1.5% of their charge each month.   In cold weather remove the batteries and store them indoors if you can.  Turn of the propane at the main valve on the tank(s) and make sure all appliances are shut off.  Empty the fridge and clean it thoroughly.   I like to use a window cleaner with ammonia to sanitize the inside of the fridge.  Then leave the refrigerator door(s) slightly open.   This will help avoid the growth of mold and mildew in the fridge.  You don't want to open up your RV for your next trip and find the "Thing From The Swamp" oozing out of your fridge!   Give your whole unit a good cleaning, inside and out.   Any leftover food scraps inside may attract bugs and varmints.   Remove all perishable foodstuffs and any medicines and other provisions that might be adversely affected by temperature swings while the unit is in storage.   If you are storing it for the winter in a cold climate, winterize the water system to prevent freezing of pipes, holding tanks, and fixtures.   If you are storing it in a mild climate for a short time until your next trip, empty and flush the holding tanks and add chemicals as necessary.   Fill your fresh water tank.  It is a good idea to drain and flush the hot water heater periodically too.  I don't do mine after every trip, but if you have been on an extended trip, say a week or more, or have accumulated 7-10 days camping since the last time you drained and flushed it, it wouldn't hurt to flush it before putting the unit into storage.   Be sure to refill the hot water heater when you fill you fresh water tank -- unless you are winterizing the vehicle.  Then you'll want to leave it empty. Otherwise you'll have to wait while you pump 6-10 gallons of precious fresh water into the empty water heater.  I like to top off my fuel (engine fuel and propane) after each trip so my RV is ready to roll for spontaneous outings or if called into service as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle.  Full tanks also reduce condensation and moisture from contaminated fuels.

Close all the windows and doors and vents.  You don't want dust or snow blowing in.   Don't forget the roof vents.  Make sure all locks are secure.   For extra security on sliding windows you can put a dowel in the lower track to keep the window from being opened or you can buy little clamps that screw onto the lower track to lock the window.  These measures won't stop a determined thief, who
will just break the window, but they can deter some "crimes of opportunity".   You may not have to make your RV 100% secure to avoid getting robbed.  All you may have to do is make it harder to get into than the one next to it so yours is a less attractive target for would be thieves!

Protecting your RV from the elements as well as you can is always a good idea.  The ideal situation is to store your RV in its own garage or shed so it is completely out of the elements.  This option is often cost prohibitive.  As a minimum you should invest in tire covers to reduce weather checking.  With the relatively limited use most RVs get, most RV tires age out long before they wear out. It is a painful and expensive process to throw away tires with plenty of tread and spend hundreds or thousands of dollars for new ones because they've gotten too old and started to weather check.  I've seen RV tires where the cracks in the sidewalls were wider and deeper than the grooves in the tread, definitely an unsafe condition!  Badly cracked tires are likely to blow out, perhaps causing damage to the surround fender well and any nearby cabinets or even causing the driver to loose control and get in an accident.  Tire covers or even storing your RV in a garage won't totally eliminate aging and weather checking, but it will slow it down.   Tire covers aren't terribly expensive nor difficult to install.  Most are made of vinyl and have elastic built in to the circumference to snug them around the tire when installed.  Some require ties or anchors to ensure they don't blow off in windy conditions.   It is always a good idea to secure your tire covers even if they have strong elastic borders.  I've seen owners cut shields from styrofoam insulation panels or plywood to tuck into the wheel wells to shade their tires.  This is certainly better than nothing and protects the tires from their worst enemy:  direct sunlight.  But it doesn't protect them against ozone in the air, which also accelerates deterioration. Ozone may be higher than normal if your RV is stored under or near high voltage power lines.

Standard sized full RV covers can be obtained off the shelf to fit most RVs for a few hundred dollars.   For a little more you can have a custom cover made to your exact specifications.   Custom covers usually include zipper doors to allow you to get to the RV doors conveniently without having to remove or crawl under the cover.  Over time you will recoup the cost of your RV cover in reduced fading of paint, decals, and upholstery and reduced tire damage.   Not to mention the time saved in cleaning and detailing your rig when you take it out of storage.  RV covers protect more than your tires.  They shield the paint, decals, and interior from sunlight.  The cover should be 'breathable' to allow humidity that condenses inside to evaporate.   It should also be soft inside so it doesn't mar the RV surface.  That is why just covering your RV with a farm tarp isn't such a good idea.  If that is your only choice, try buffering the tarp so it stays away from the surface of the RV. Use up-side-down plastic totes on the roof to lift it up.  Plastic pillows or rubber balls can be used to space it away from the corners and side walls.  You can also tie the bott om of the tarp down a few feet away from the RV perimeter to help keep it away from the side walls. Tent pegs can be driven into the ground to anchor the tarp.  If you are parking on a paved surface, you might fill empty bleach or milk jugs with water and tie them to the tarp grommets to help hold it down.  If you are in a climate with freezing temperatures, fill the jugs with an appropriate antifreeze solution or they will freeze and split.  Then, they'll leak on the first warm day and your anchors will be useless and your cover will blow away. Make sure your awnings are clean and dry before you store your RV.  Moisture trapped inside may foster mold and mildew that will turn them into rather nasty science experiments before your next trip.  This applies to bag awnings as well as permanently mounted models.   If your RV is going to stored for any extended period of time, say more than month, try to take the load off the tires -- put it on blocks.  If you don't put it up on blocks and it is parked on pavement, place wooden pads under the tires.  Pieces of exterior plywood work well as do scraps of 2x6 or 2x8 lumber.   You'll need a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 about 1' long for each tire.  Never park just one of dual tires on a block.  Make sure both tires are on the same level.  Bevel one end of the block so it is easier to drive up onto the blocks without scooting them out of the way.

Moisture in the air can cause problems in the interior.   If you have shore power, hooking up a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb inside might help reduce condensation.   Condensation can cause odors and foster mold or mildew.  Another easy solution is to leave one or more moisture absorbing devices inside.   These are usually plastic jars containing material that readily absorbs moisture. You'll need to check them periodically and replace them when they fill with water.  I was pleasantly surprised when I found some of these at my local dollar store (Dollar Tree).   Unfortunately, they don't carry them all year long, so if you see them grab them when you can.  Fortunately, they usually do show up in the early fall, in time for winter storage.  They should keep for several months if the seal isn't broken.  Once you break the seal they go to work, absorbing moisture from the air.  They are usually with the closet accessories.  Even though I've mostly lived in desert areas with low humidity, I have been surprised by how much liquid accumulates in these devices over a couple of months.  There are also electric or electronic dehumidifiers, but they are a little pricey and you have to have -- and pay -- for power to run them so I like the chemical canisters, especially when I can get them for just a buck each!

Store it!