When to call an RV technician

Throughout the articles in this blog we have often advised calling a qualified RV technician. Realizing that can be an inconvenient and sometimes expensive proposition, here are some guidelines about what you can do BEFORE resorting to seeking professional assistance.  While these recommendations are aimed primarily at RV owners, tent campers may find some tips applicable to dealing with their equipment too.  I strongly encourage everyone to do whatever they can to diagnose and correct their own problems before calling a repairman.  If you know what the problem is you will be in a better position to determine if it is something you can fix or if you need to call a professional. Is is pretty sad and embarrassing -- expensive -- when you pay for a service call only to discover you forgot to turn on the main propane valve or plug in your generator!  Many times you can solve your own problems and save the cost and embarrassment of a service call.   However, ignoring problems that do require an RV tech or trying to solve them yourself can be even more costly and embarrassing in the long run.  Any time you encounter a situation you AREN'T SURE you are qualified to handle, call for professional help or seek advice from more experienced fellow campers.  Having it done right is often much less expensive than dealing with collateral damage from foiled repairs.

Choosing an RV technician.   Try to find a technician or company that is licensed and bonded.  That may not always be possible in remote locations or when resorting to mobile technicians who can come to your site.   Avoid having any major repairs done by an unlicensed technician. For mechanical repairs on a motorhome, seek a repair shop that is qualified to work on the chassis for your unit. GM/Chevrolet dealers and repair shops are appropriate for Workhorse and P-30 chassis.  Ford dealers and mechanics are your best bet for Ford chassis.  Dodge chassis were popular foundations for motorhomes for many years.  Some big diesel motorhomes have custom-built chassis so you may need to focus on the major components that need service.  Cummins and Caterpillar diesel engines are fairly common as are Allison transmissions and there are repair shops that specialize in these brands.   However, while chassis dealers can usually deal effecetively with mechanical problems, you will probably need a qualified RV technician to handle issues with other RV systems.

General guidelines.   First of all, always check for the obvious and simple problems before resorting to calling for help.   If you don't have any water at your faucets or to flush the toilet, make sure there is water in the tank and the pump is working or you are connected to city water, the faucet is turned on, and the hose isn't kinked.  Also make sure you haven't parked on your water hose.  I've seen folks do that and then complain to the campground manager about not getting any water.  Check the water pump switch, fuse, and connections.  Also make sure your batteries aren't dead.  If your power goes out, check to make sure you are still plugged in and then check the circuit breakers . You'd be surprised how many times the shore power cord wiggles loose or gets tripped over and disconnected.  For electrical problems in general, always check connections and make sure switches are turned on, then check fuses and circuit breakers.   Lighting problems are most often just a burned out bulb or a loose connection, both things you can easily resolve yourself.

Fresh water problems are often quite simple to diagnose and fix.  If you're connected to city water, make sure the faucet is turned on and that water is available at the faucet.  Then look for and correct any kinks or other blockage in your fresh water hose.  If water is available at some fixtures but not others, the screen in the faucet itself may be clogged.  The screen/diffusers on most faucets have tiny holes that can be fairly easily clogged by debris in water or hard water deposits.   Just cleaning the screen/diffuser may solve water delivery problems.  Simply unscrew the retainer where the water comes out of the faucet and clean the screen inside.  You can usually remove debris by brushing or back-flushing the screen/diffuser.  Hard water deposits may require soaking the component in something like Lime-away, CLR or vinegar, then cleaning the holes with a pin.  If you're dry camping and depending on your water pump and fresh water tank, the first thing to check is whether the pump is turned on.  Also check the pump fuse and both hot and ground connections to the pump.  If the pump runs but you don't get any water, your fresh water tank is probably depleted.  If you're out of water your only solution is to get more.  Avoid running out of water by monitoring and limiting usage when dry camping -- and by bringing along reserves in portable containers.  If your pump continues to run after you have shut off all fixtures or cycles when you're not using any water you probably have a leak somewhere.  Listen for a hissing sound and watch for wet spots.   If you discover a loose connection you may be able to tighten it to solve your problem.  If the leak is due to a damaged line or a connection that can't be tightened, you will need to replace the affected section of the plumbing that might be a job for a qualified RV technician.  Sometimes you might experience leaks when connected to city water but not when using your on-board fresh water tank and pump.  This is usually due to high water pressure at the city water source.  It is always a good idea to use a pressure regulator.   These are inexpensive and portable.   They fit in line with your fresh water hose and simply screw onto the faucet. I suggest installing it at the faucet so your fresh water hose is also protected and so the regulator isn't sticking out from the side of your RV. If you find you have a high pressure problem and don't have a pressure regulator, you might get by temporarily by partially closing the faucet to restrict the flow and reduce the pressure.  Getting only a trickle of water in the shower may be inconvenient but it beats the frustration and damage that can result from an uncontrolled leak.

Sewer system problems can range from bad odors to horrific spills and backups.  Bad odors can usually be avoided by proper dumping and maintenance of the holding tanks.  Make sure you have a water seal in the toilet -- keep the deep well of the toilet about half full -- and have water in the P-traps on sink and shower drains.  Dump about a cup of water down each drain if odors are emanating from the drain.   Drain odors are most common on the road or shortly after arriving in camp.  Movement can cause the water normally trapped in the drain to be lost, allowing odors back into the coach from the holding tank.   Back ups are another common problem.  They are usually due to owners not monitoring holding tank status and failing to dump the tanks before they get full.   Another common cause of sewer odors is a plugged vent.  Damage to sewer lines, holding tanks, and dump valves can seldom be repaired in the field.   Because of the difficulty of evacuating holding tanks if the valves or lines are damaged you will probably need the assistance of a qualified RV technician to deal with these situations.  If you have to handle it yourself, you'll need some kind of pan or container under the affected plumbing to catch the sewage for subsequent disposal.   Some cracked tanks and sewage lines can be repaired but often replacement is the best solution.  Leaking dump valves can sometimes be rebuilt by replacing the seals but broken valves will have to be replaced.  Since you have to completely remove the valve to replace the seals, it is often better to replace the valves.

Propane system problems can be difficult to diagnose without special tools but there are some common problems you should check before you call the repairman.   First, make sure your main supply valve is turned on and you have propane in your tank.   Check the burners on hot water heaters, refrigerators, furnaces, etc, to be sure they are clear of debris.  If you have plenty of propane, the main valve is turned on, and the burners are clear of debris and nothing works, you are probably going to need to replace the regulator or call a technician.  If all appliances are affected, it is probably a problem with the regulator.   If you are a moderately good handyman, you can probably replace the regulator if you can find one.   Another common problem, especially on older appliances, is a failed thermocouple.  I have done field replacements of thermocouples on older propane appliances.   It is a fairly easy task requiring only simple tools.  I usually carry one or two spares in my RV tool kit.  The thermocouple is a tube that extends into the flame of the burner and has a wire coming out the other end.  Heat on the thermocouple generates a small electric current that keeps the gas valve open.   If the flame goes out, the current stops and the gas is shut off.  A bad thermocouple will prevent the main gas valve from opening.  If you smell propane in or around your rig, avoid open flames and sparks and try to locate the source.  Sometimes in hot weather, expanding gas in the tanks or cylinder will be vented through a pressure relief valve.   This does not require any repairs but does demand caution until the gas dissipates to avoid an explosive situation.  This is usually the result of over-filling and shouldn't happen if the tanks are properly filled.  Unexplained odors may be coming from a leak in a gas line or appliance and can be very dangerous.  You can test visible lines and connections using a soapy water solution.  You might be able to tighten loose connections but a damaged line or fitting will have to be replaced.   The regulators on your permanently mounted tanks or the ones you connect to your portable tanks are also subject to failure.   If you can determine the regulator has failed you can probably replace it yourself, but a sure diagnosis may take specialized test equipment and techniques by a qualified technician.  Propane appliances need the correct pressure to operate correctly.  The only way to verify the gas pressure is using a manometer, which is a device something like a barometer that measures the gas pressure.  Too high or too low a pressure and your appliances won't work.  The pressure is controlled by the regulator, which reduces the high pressure of the propane tank to the lower pressure required by your appliances. A faulty regulator may fail to deliver any gas or may deliver too high a pressure.  Either condition must be corrected for appliances to function properly.  Regulators are not adjustable.  If the pressure isn't right, they have to be replaced.

Generator problems could be in the engine that powers the generator or in the generator itself. However, a very common problem that does NOT require a technician, is failure to connect the RV 120-volt system to the generator.  Some RVs have auto transfer switches that switch between shore and generator power automatically.  In those that do not, the shore power cord must be plugged in to the generator receptacle.  It is surprising how often folks fail to perform this simple step.  If the generator engine stops unexpectedly, it may be out of fuel or low on oil.  Most have low-oil shut-off switch that shuts down the engine if the oil gets low.  Always check the oil and fuel levels before calling a repairman . Also check the fuel filters. A dirty fuel filter can block fuel to the engine.  The fuel pickup on motorhomes is placed so the generator will run out of fuel when the tank is still about 1/4 full, so you don't get stranded by running the generator.  So the generator may run out long before the gauge says "Empty".   If the motor runs but you get no power first make sure the power cord is properly connect to the generator either via an auto transfer switch or by plugging the shore power into the generator receptacle.  Then check the circuit breakers on the generator itself and the circuit breakers in the panel in your RV.   A temporary overload may have caused a breaker to trip.  To reset most breakers you merely turn them to the OFF position, then back to ON.  If breakers keep popping you'll need to isolate the load that is overloading the circuit.  This is usually due to using too many appliances on the same circuit at the same time but could be due to a wiring problem, like a chafed wire or one that has been inadvertently penetrated by a screw or nail.  Loose connections can sometimes cause overloads too.

Entertainment systems in RVs are often very similar to the ones at home.   Check for loose connections on power cords and between components.  Balance problems on stereo equipment is sometimes due to bad speakers.  You can test this by swapping the connections.  If the problem moves to the other side, it is internal to the system.  If the problem stays on the same side, it is likely a problem with the speakers or wiring on that side.   Faulty power can wreck havoc with electronic equipment.  Low voltage is an all too common problem in some older campgrounds and a poorly adjusted or malfunction generator may not deliver proper power.   Frequency meters are more expensive than simple volt meters but they let you know if your AC power is correct.  Standard AC power should be at a frequency of 60 cycles per second.   That means it switches directions 60 times a second.   If you don't have a frequency meter you can get an idea of whether your power is operating at the right frequency using an electric clock.  Compare the time on the electric clock with your watch or cell phone.  If the clock runs faster, the frequency is too high.  If it runs slower, the frequency is too low.  There isn't much you can do about poor power (bad frequency or low or high voltage) at a campground except report it to the manager and disconnect your vehicle.  If your generator isn't working properly, you'll need to have it adjusted by a competent technician who has the proper equipment and can adjust the motor to create the proper frequency.

Can't get your vehicle started?  If your starting battery is low but you can run your generator you may be able to connect a battery charger to charge your starting battery.  Some motorhomes have special switches to jumper the coach and starting batteries for a built in jump-start.  If yours does not have one, you might be able to have one added by a knowledgeable mechanic or RV technician.   In an emergency in a remote location you might be able to swap batteries from your coach or trailer into your vehicle.   I assisted a fellow camper in swapping batteries in his truck/camper combination when he inadvertently ran his starting battery down.  Surprisingly, he had no idea the camper battery could be used to start his truck.  Of course, in order to swap batteries, they must be of compatible voltage. You can temporarily use a 12-volt deep cycle battery as a starting battery, but if you have a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries for your coach, you'd need to use both in series to create 12 volts so you may need to use your jumper cables to tie your coach batteries to your starting battery to get you going Unless your alternator is bad, once you get your vehicle engine started, it should charge your starting battery -- unless the battery is beyond help.  Always check your fuel level.  If you are out of fuel you might have to call your Emergency Road Service for a fuel delivery to get you going.  If you have extra fuel with you for motorized toys, you might be able to use that to get you to a gas station.  In a pinch I've burned 2-stroke pre-mix fuel in my truck.  It smoked a little from the oil mixed in the gas, but it got us to town to buy fuel.  NEVER mix gasoline and diesel!   Although both are derived from petroleum, they are NOT compatible.  If you aren't certain about your options, consult your fellow campers.  Chances are someone will have the necessary experience and skills or may have had a similar problem and be able to assist you.

Mechanical problems will often require the services of a competent mechanic.   Knowing when to call one can be tricky.   Major problems like engine knocking or grinding noises in the drive train will probably send you to the nearest mechanic without hesitation.  Some simple repairs may be within the skills of any good do-it-yourself home mechanic, but there is also the possibility of creating additional damage if you attempt repairs you are not qualified to handle.   If possible, develop a relationship with a mechanic you can trust who can give you good advice about things you might be able to solve yourself.  If he tells you to call a professional, do it.  Attempting repairs you don't have the right tools or experience to handle can cost you a lot more in the long run than having it done right in the first place.   I once opted to rebuild the engine in one of our small dirt bikes rather than pay the motorcycle shop about $400 to do it.   The parts I needed were less than $200. Having rebuilt several dirt bikes engines previously, I felt comfortable attempting it myself.  Turns out for this engine there was a special jig needed to separate and reassemble the cases and I ended up having to take the machine to the dealer to get the job finished.  By the time I was done I spent over $500 on repairs that could have been done in half the time for $400 if I'd taken it to the shop in the first place. Some simple problems most do-it-yourselfers CAN handle are repairing or replacing leaky radiator or heater hoses -- assuming your have replacement hoses, proper tools (usually just a screwdriver or two), and some knowledge and skill.  You may also be able to replace dirty fuel filters.   I once had a motorhome that had been in storage for several years and the fuel tank was badly corroded.   I had to replace the fuel filter multiple times in a 2-day trip from Eugene, Oregon to Los Angeles, California.

Help yourself!