The kind of trailer you choose to haul your toys will depend on the type, number, and size of the machines it is going to haul -- and what you have to tow it with -- and how much you want to spend. Any tools, gear, and other equipment you may want to bring along may also figure into the design. The requirements for an appropriate vehicle to transport snowmobiles or jet skis are different than those for motorcycles and ATVs. Motorcyles and ATVs each have their own space demands that will dictate the best trailer configuration. Snowmobiles and jet skis need large, flat areas. Jet skis need trailers that can be backed into the water. That means waterproof lights and wheel bearings. Dirt bikes can be lined up side by side. ATVs can sometimes be stowed for travel with their front wheels raised to reduce their footprint and put more units in a smaller floor space. Although there are many fundamental configurations to choose from, once you have decided on the basic style, there are a lot of adaptations you can make to customize the trailer to meet your specific needs and make it easier, more convenient, and even more fun to use.
The term "toyhauler" usaully refers to trailer with both living quarters like a travel trailer and garage space to haul OHVs or other toys (like golf carts). However, you might choose an open, flatbed or utility trailer to transport your toys, especially if you already have an RV for living space. Cost, weight, availability of a tow vehicle with sufficient capacity, and storage considerations may determine what kind of trailer works best for you. From personal experience I much prefer and enclosed trailer for my dirt bikes, but you might not have the same needs or the budget for or a place to park such a trailer. Much of what appears below applies mostly to actual toyhauler trailers or enclosed motorcycle trailers but some of the needs might be adapted for other types of vehicles.
Regardless of the type of toys you're hauling or the type of trailer you use, you will want to set up your trailer so it is convenient to use. Of course loading, unloading, and securing your vehicles will be one of the primary concerns. You will need appropriate ramps for loading and unloading and secure tie-down points to keep your cargo safe. Next will be organizing your personal gear, tools, equipment, and supplies. You will want everything where you can find it when you need it and have it secured so it doesn't end up all in a heap on the floor when you arrive in camp. You also want to take care that you don't "bury" things by placing stuff in front of or on top of it. If you don't remember you have something or can't get to it when you need it, you'd be better off leaving it home and saving the weight and space. An enclosed trailer or toy-hauler will probably give you room to hang or otherwise store your riding gear where it is safe and convenient to use. If you're using an open trainer, you will probably want to look into some off-road gear bags to organize your personal protective equipment.
Commercial toyhaulers or trailers adapted by previous owners may already have many features you will need but you will probably have to do just about everything yourself if you're starting with a new or otherwise unaltered utility trailer. Even commercial toyhaulers can usually benefit from some custom improvements to fit your particular needs.
Open versus enclosed trailers. Open flatbed trailers or utility trailers are often used to haul dirt bikes, ATVs and snowmobiles. Specialized trailers are need to successfully transport and launch Jet-skis and other personal watercraft. Dirt bikes can also be hauled on flatbed trailers or "rail" trailers. Open trailers are lighter and thus have less impact on the gas mileage of the tow vehicle. They are also generally less expensive. You can usually use a trunk or box or portable gear bag to transport necessary riding gear, tools, and other equipment. Enclosed trailers provide protection of equipment, gear, tools, and supplies from weather and theft. They can often be used to store equipment, gear, tools, and supplies at home between trips. The most popular and convenient enclosed trailers are known as "toyhaulers". They often combine garage-like storage for transporting your OHVs with living space so you only need one unit.
I tow my enclosed motorcycle trailer behind my motorhome so I don't need the living space of today's all-in-one toy haulers. I bought a used enclosed motorcycle trailer. It happened to have been custom-built by a mechanical engineer for his own dirt biking needs. One of the features it has that attracted to me to it over a commercial cargo trailer is that is has a 5500# axle. Most single axle cargo trailers have 3500# axles so you have to buy a multi-axle trailer to accommodate more weight. Another asset was its 1" square steel tubing infrastructure and sturdy 2x4 steel channel ladder frame. Not many commercial cargo trailers are built as strong. It already had a toolbox and a counter/workbench built in across the front with a set of cubby-holes above, but that was it. The rest was raw space, not even painted. The "garage" of many toy haulers comes from the factory about as empty as my motorcycle trailer was when I bought it, so you may find some of the tips below applicable to adapting even fancier units to your own personal needs and preferences. Most come with some built-in cabinets and usually some tie-down points. You will probably want to upgrade and customize the storage space and add tie-downs to fit your specific vehicles.
Tie downs are an essential feature for safely hauling just about any kind of OHV. Even lightweight units like bicycles should be secured to avoid damage during transport. Tie down systems range from simple eyebolts or "D" rings to fancy adjustable rail systems. Even if your trailer comes with tie downs you may want to add more where you want them for added convenience or extra security. I found that I wanted more convenient tie down options in my trailer so I added several eye bolts that are stronger and easier to get to than the original "D" rings on the floor. Typical tie down straps use simple locking mechanisms. Ratchet tie downs like those used to secure loads on pickup trucks can be used but take care not to ratchet them down too tightly or you may damage your suspension. Ratchet straps can be tightened hard enough to damage vehicle components or pull the tie down points loose. I like to secure the loose ends to the straps so they don't flap around in any breeze. That is mostly an artifact from when I carried my dirt bikes in a pickup truck or open trailer, but it also keeps the ends where I can find them easily when I'm ready to unload even in an enclosed trailer where wind isn't a problem and prevents them from loosening from vibration.
I made several other additions to enhance the usability of my enclosed trailer. The original owner had installed very limited lighting -- just a single 12-volt RV ceiling fixture with a built-in switch. I added a second ceiling fixture plus a couple over the workbench -- all with convenient residential style switches near the entry door.. I also added several outside lights to facilitate working on the bikes after dark. I scrounged up a couple of really bright white lights salvaged from an ambulance that really light things up. The only downside I've found is that the bulbs are specialty items, hard to find, and kind of pricey. I wired all my lights through residential style light switches instead of 12-volt toggles for convenience. If space is a problem, 12-volt switches are much smaller, but I like the convenience of residential style switches. The 120-volt, 15-amp rating of the household switches is way more than is needed for simple 12-volt lights, but they work perfectly and will probably never wear out. The outside work light on the rear is set up with two 3-way switches: one inside the man-door up front and a second, waterproof outside switch near the rear ramp door. An ordinary RV porch light illuminates the tongue and hitch. I mounted a hitch receiver vertically on the tongue where I could insert my motorcycle tire changer stand to have a sturdy and convenient place to change tires. Sure beats kneeling in the dirt and gravel! Another addition to the tongue is a bench vice also mounted on a pedestal. It comes in really handy when repairing bent motorcycle and ATV parts.
Electrical power is mostly provided by a 12-volt deep cycle RV battery. I also added several 120-volt outlets and a 12-volt converter to run the lights etc when plugged into to 120-volt power. To keep the battery charged I included an automatic battery charger that runs whenever shore power is supplied. I plug the trailer into a dedicated outdoor outlet on my motorhome in camp so the battery is charging whenever I run the generator. I ran a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the trailer outlet on the motorhome so it could run the roof A/C or the air compressor in the trailer too (not at the same time). A convenient 12-volt control panel on the wall over the workbench can select BATTERY or CITY power for the water pump and lights.
Lighting in and on a toyhauler can be essential to convenience. You need good interior lighting to see tools, spare parts, supplies, and riding gear. You need good exterior lighting to facilitate after dark OHV repairs. I used ordinary RV interior light fixtures but I hooked them up through residential switches in convenient locations. The residential switches are definitely overrated for 12-volt use but I expect they'll last "forever". I even used some 3-way switches so I could turn lights on from either just inside the man door or from the back of the trailer. My trailer is about 12' long. I used two ceiling fixtures for general lighting and added an extra one under the cabinets over the workbench for better work lighting. For the outside I got a couple of really bright 12-volt flood lights off ebay that came from a salvaged ambulance. They are very bright and very durable, but the bulbs have to be special ordered and are very expensive. I used a waterproof outdoor 3-way switch so I don't even have to open a door to turn the work lights on or off. You might want some lights even on an open trailer to facilitate hooking up the trailer, working on your toys, and loading/unloading after dark. The small investment of time and money in good lighting can easily save you losing expensive gear and equipment if, in the dark, it isn't properly secured. These kinds of modifications are usually not practical on open trailers but you might find some kinds of lighting useful.
Flooring in a trailer is usually just what it comes with, but there are things you might want to consider to adapt yours for your specific needs. Because of the dirt and possible fluid spills that are common on OHVs you will probably want a hard surface, gas and oil resistant floor. However, if you also use your enclosed hauler to change in and out of your riding gear you might want t have a rug or carpet you can roll out for both comfort and cleanliness when changing clothes. I also like to put some foam anti-fatigue mats in front of my workbench, both for comfort working at the bench and to protect the floor, tools, and parts when something gets dropped. I also use foam padding on my workbench. It is kind of unique, and was actually a foam tile kids puzzle with animal cutouts. I got lots of teasing from my dirty biking buddies when they first saw it, but they changed their tune when they saw how well it worked and how easy it was to clean!
General storage. My trailer came with just one storage area across the front above the counter/work bench. It had no doors, just cubby-holes. After finding the contents of the cubby holes scattered throughout the interior of the trailer after a couple of trips, I fashioned doors from peg-board to keep stuff from falling out in transit. I also added a shelf down each side to accommodate helmets and other gear. Each shelf consists of a 1x12 with a 1x4 lip all around the edges to keep things from sliding off. I had originally planned to use residential closet rod supports to hold the shelves and to put closet rods under the shelves for hanging jerseys, jackets, and pants but the clothing would have hung out into the aisle way too far so I designed short rods made from PVC pipe and fittings running perpendicular to the side of the trailer under the shelf so clothing and gear would hang flat against the wall under the shelf. That gives me about 4' of closet-rod on each side, without anything sticking out into the open space for the bikes. Peg board above the work bench keeps frequently used tools well organized and at the ready. The old adage "a place for everything and everything in its place" is a good rule to follow when setting up your toy hauler. Doing so will make the most efficient use of space and make everything more convenient when you need to use it. I am probably too much of a stickler for putting things back in place, but that way I can find things when I need them, even if it means going back to their regular storage locations many times during a single task. Storage on open trailers is usually limited to a footlocker or tool box. It might be attached to the trailer for security or removable to you can store it in the garage between trips.
Custom storage adds a lot of convenience. I made the shelves in my trailer just right to hold helmets and plastic tubs of small accessories. The shelves have a lip around the outside edge to keep things in place. I used a 1"x12" shelf with 1"x4" edges. In lieu of standard closet rods beneath the shelves I mounted PVC pipes perpendicular to the walls so gear hangs flat against the walls instead of protruding out into the aisle space. I added a metal rack on one wall on which to hang tie-downs when not in use so they stay clean, untangled, and ready to use. I built gas-can racks into the rear corners just inside the ramp door so they would be easy to get to when being filled at the gas station or when needed in camp to fuel up the bikes. Each rack, one on each side, holds 3 of the square "motocross" gas jugs. The peg board above the counter can be configured in an endless variety of ways to organize tools and supplies. Having lens cleaner and tissues readily available makes cleaning goggles before each ride a snap.
Spare parts need to be easily accessible and well labeled so you can find them when you need them. I use plastic bins for larger parts, like inner tubes and brake and clutch levers and a set of plastic drawers for fasteners or keep them in their original divided plastic boxes. The main thing is to make it so you can see what you have and get them when you need them. A set of small plastic drawers organize small nuts and bolts. I heated the ends of some thin welding rod and pushed into the plastic frame around the drawers so the rods passed in front of the drawers to keep them from sliding open in transit.
Furnaces and air conditioners are often standard or optional features on modern toy haulers. Some older units, or cargo trailers you might purchase to use to haul your toys, may not have a furnace or air conditioner. Since these appliances can be expensive to purchase and install, you might want to explore getting used appliances. That is what I did for my old Smuggler trailer. I was able to buy a furnace out of camper at a Pick-a-Part junkyard for $25. I paid $100 for a working roof A/C from a wrecked motorhome in another junkyard. Keep in mind appliances like these require proper installation for safety and correct operation. If you aren't comfortable tapping into the propane system for the furnace or doing the 120-volt wiring for the A/C, have them installed by a qualified RV technician. Prior to adding the furnace we used a Coleman liquid fuel catalytic tent heater to heat the Smuggler. If you use a tent heater, be sure to leave a couple of windows open a little bit to ensure adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation. Of course heating and cooling isn't usually needed or practical for open trailers, but you might find a truck tent that fits the bed to provide some protection for gear and tool from the weather in camp. And, if you choose to sleep in the tent, you might be able to use a catalytic tent heater. Just remember to maintain adequate ventilation, 'cause even if they don't give off toxic fumes they will consume oxygen.
Gas cans. I built a rack on the floor into the back corners, just inside the rear ramp door to keep the gas cans secure and readily available when needed. It is simply a 2x4 frame mounted to the floor to secure the bottom of the cans. I added an eye bolt on each end and run a tie down through the handles to make sure they don't tip over during violent maneuvers. The location, just inside the rear door, makes it convenient for filling the gas cans and gassing the bikes. BTW, always take your gas cans out of your trailer or truck and set them on the ground to fill them. Leaving them in the vehicle can cause a static electric charge to build up during filling that has been known to ignite the fuel vapors. Such an event would certainly be exciting but not very productive! Other convenient options for fuel transport and storage include gravity fed delivery systems and pumped fuel. If your toy hauler already has a gasoline tank for its generator, you may be able to add a pump and nozzle to make it easier to fuel your toys. Some of the fancier models come with a built in 12-volt gas pump. A gravity fed system consists of a fuel tank mounted near the ceiling or on the roof and a hose and nozzle that can be used to fill fuel tanks. Filling the ceiling or roof mounted tank might require a little bit of acrobatic maneuvers. If your toy hauler has an on board generator, you might be able to use a common gasoline tank for the generator and fuel for your toys.
Boots. Riding boots are bulky and often dirty so I like to keep them in the trailer rather than track dirt into my motorhome. I use spring clamps to hang the boots by the back of the top. This prevents the sag that otherwise sets in when they sit flat on the floor -- and it keeps them in place during transit. It also allows them to dry out faster if they have gotten wet. A rubber boot mat beneath them captures any mud and water that drips off.
Plumbing. Plumbing is not a necessity for an OHV trailer, but I had gotten spoiled by the plumbing facilities in our old Smuggler trailers so I added a sink to the counter/work bench in my motorcycle trailer. I used a fresh water tank salvaged from a wrecked Volkswagen Vanagon camper and a Flo-jet 12-volt RV water pump. I got a bar-style stainless steel sink and the high-arching bar-style faucet. This gives me a place to conveniently fill our Camelbaks before each ride and facilities where we can wash up when we get back or after working on the bikes, saving a lot of mess in the motorhome and a lot of running back and forth. Most commercial toy haulers come with built in plumbing in the living quarters but not in the "garage" area. You may find it convenient to add a sink to the garage area if it doesn't already have one.
Tools and spare parts. Most of the tools fit nicely in the large Kennedy toolbox under the counter, but I added pegboard between the counter and the overhead cabinet to keep frequently used tools readily available. Spare parts are organized into to plastic bins in the cubby holes and on the side shelves. I like to use translucent tubs so I can at least partially see what is inside. If that isn't sufficient you can always label the tubs using a Magic Marker or Dynamo or adhesive labels.
Luxury additions. Because we do a lot of dirt biking in hot desert climates, I picked up an RV roof air conditioner from a junk yard and installed it on the trailer so we could have a comfortable place to change in and out of our riding gear. In a pinch, we could use the open space as an additional sleeping area. The trailer has to be plugged into the motorhome and the motorhome generator running to use the air conditioner. Most factory built toyhaulers will either come with an air conditioner or already be wired so you can add one easily. I also added an air compressor for inflating tires and running air tools. Actually I have two air compressors. One is a 120-volt "pancake" compressor. The other is a heavy-duty 12-volt unit. This is not one of the little things that plug into a cigarette lighter with a motor slightly larger than a Tootsie Roll, but has a Delco motor the size of an automobile starter that I found on ebay. Just having an inexpensive plug-in type compressor could save you a lot of effort inflating tires, but it will take longer, won't run power tools, and it probably won't last very long if it gets much use. For convenience I ran outside air lines to both rear corners of the trailer and to the tongue so I could attach an air hose wherever I needed it. A 120-volt bench grinder is another upgrade to workbench. I also rounded up a manual, crank operated grinder to use when I don't have 120-volt power. A lot of this may be overkill, but it provides a lot of comfort and convenience and capability to handle field maintenance as needed to keep our toys running on extended outings. When I put this together I was supporting 8 bikes (mine and my wifes' and six kids' off road motorcycles). With that many machines there were always plenty of field repairs and routine maintenance to be done. I also become the "go to guy" when my riding buddies needed mechanical assistance, tools, or parts in the desert. A boot and glove dryer might be a nice addition if you ride often in wet or snowy conditions. For now I just use large spring clamps to secure the top rear of
riding boots to a panel so they can hang free to drip dry and don't bend
over in storage.
Toy haulers typically include standard travel trailer living features such as a bathroom, bed, and galley along with the "garage" for the toys. Often the garage is configured so it can be used as living space once the vehicles have been removed. That might include fold-down bench seats along the sides or a drop down bed for additional sleeping capacity. You will want to maximize the convenience of your living space by carefully choosing and organizing your on-board equipment and supplies. Then customize your garage to organize your gear, tools, and supplies to your liking. Having a rug or carpet to roll out over the hard "garage" floor will make the area more comfortable and inviting as living space.
Basic trailers. If you don't need the living space of modern toy hauler you can start with just about any sturdy cargo trailer. An open, landscape trailer will haul your toys but you might want an enclosed trailer to house your tools, riding gear, spare parts, and other equipment. If you are concerned about weight, an open trailer will be lighter. You might use an old Army footlocker for your gear. An enclosed trailer gives you more protection for your machines, your tools, your gear, and your self if you have to do any repairs in camp. You might be able to convert an old travel trailer, but your options will be limited by the floor plan of the trailer. Check the axle rating to be sure it can handle the load you'll be putting on it. Also check the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating, hitch weight, and towing capacity of your tow vehicle. Include the weight of the trailer itself, tools, spare parts, riding gear, fuel, water, and your OHVs to avoid over-loading. Over-loading will create handling problems and excessive tire and brake wear which could result in an accident or blowout. You many want to haul firewood, camp stoves, etc in your trailer. Just be sure to include the weight of everything you put on board so you don't exceed the rated weight capacity. You will also want to stay within the weight limits for your tow vehicle. Be sure to keep any eye on the tires to make sure they are properly inflated and you haven't overloaded them. Check tire temperature whenever you stop. Tires WILL get hot on warm days, but if any tire is noticeably hotter than the others or if any tires are too hot to touch, you are probably overloaded or the tire is under-inflated and in danger of having a blowout.
Organizing your stuff. If you already know enough about what you'll be hauling and where you want to put it to be ready to use you might be able to design your storage compartments accordingly. My solution was to use plastic tubs on the shelves and in the cubby holes to store extra gloves, goggles, spare parts and other small items. On the shelves I stack the tubs two deep. The bottom one is held in place by the 1x4 lip on the shelves. The top one nestles into the lid of the bottom one and I put a big car wash sponge between the top and the ceiling to hold it down. This method has held the tubs in place in all but the most violent of maneuvers or roughest of roads. As you plan and use your storage, keep in mind you are likely to be driving on rough roads or even off-road. You will open up your trailer and find a huge scrambled pile of stuff if you don't secure it properly. If that happens you're going to lose a lot of valuable riding time cleaning up the mess and may have to write off and toss out damaged goods. Things like spare goggle lenses don't fare well when they are mashed onto the floor by other stuff that falls on top of them. Spilled fluids make a real mess and can ruin other gear if it also falls down. The recovery will certainly cost more time and money than organizing things right in the first place.
Suggested spare parts and supplies. I soon learned, the hard way, that going riding in the desert required some extra preparation. On our first outing I didn't even have extra spark plugs for our 2-stroke bikes. Anyone who has ridden two-strokes knows what a mistake that was! Now, in addition to spare spark plugs for every bike, I carry spare brake and clutch levers, master-links for the drive chains, and sometimes spare shift levers along with a wide assortment of metric bolts, nuts and washers. I started out with a box of spare scrap fasteners obtained from my local motorcycle shop but more recently I have added bolt kits that are specific to each bike. It is really nice to have the right fastener when something gets lost off one of the bikes. An assortment of inner tubes to cover all the tires on your rides is also a good thing to have on hand. I also carry a tire repair kit that includes regular adhesive patches, hot vulcanizing patches, and tire plugs. The supplies you need will depend upon the needs for your bikes. Some typical items that are helpful for almost all OHV situations include lens cleaner and WD-40. If you have 2-stroke engines you'll want to carry extra 2-stroke oil. You will also want engine and transmission oil for all your rides and appropriate coolant for water-cooled engines. Check the requirements for your particular machine as there are at least three different types of coolant and generally they should not be mixed with each other. Anti-fog preparations for your goggles are needed if you are riding in cold or wet weather. Over the years I've found it useful to carry extra goggles and gloves as they have a tendency to get damaged or lost. They are also handy for guests.
Customization is the key to making your trailer work for you. There is no reason you need to do what I did, unless you want to. I did what I did after years of experimentation with other trailers and checking out what other riders had done. Your needs and preferences may be very different from mine. I found places in the exposed overhead supports to store signs and camp chairs and added a rack to hold tie downs when they weren't in use. I added a strip of indoor/outdoor carpeting on the wall where the tie-downs hang so they don't make unsightly marks on the wall and to keep them from banging around too much in transit. I added sturdy eye bolts where I could tie down the bikes, along with flip-up D- rings in the floor. I also found a couple of chock devices that fold flat into the floor but when opened provide a slot and chock to hold the front wheels of my dirt bikes. I carry a rug I can roll out once the bikes are removed so I have a warm, comfortable floor to stand on when changing in and out of my riding gear. The original floor was just plywood, that at first I painted with a garage floor paint. Eventually I covered it with black and white checkered vinyl tile, but the rug is still a welcome addition, especially on cooler days when the floor is cold to stand on. The tile floor is easy to clean. I have a couple of old fashioned folding aluminum camp chairs that store neatly out of the way in the overhead space between the trailer frame and the roof. They make very comfortable places to sit when fastening boots etc.
Inventory control. One of the secrets to having a useful unit is appropriate inventory control. This includes replacing spare parts and cleaning supplies as you use them up and keeping track of what you use and what you don't use so you can eliminate unnecessary items and make room for other things you need. You also need to organize things so you can find them quickly. I use a checklist to keep track of expendable things like lubricants, spare parts, and cleaning supplies. You'll also want to manage your gear. It is easy to accumulate and haul around more than you need, so once in a while, go through everything and sort it out. It is also easy to forget to put it back after a ride. Make sure you have appropriate gear for the weather you'll be riding in and leave inappropriate stuff at home. It will reduce your travel weight and make it easier to locate the things you need. Given the rather unpredictable nature of the weather, you may want to always keep some rain gear and warmer jackets on board, even in the sunshine months, but you probably won't need Windchill jerseys, long johns and parkas all the time -- though for winter months you will want to always have them handy.
Routine housekeeping. Let's face it, housekeeping is not one of our favorite activities. But it is necessary if we're going to keep our vehicles, gear, equipment, and toys in good condition. Excessive dirt or other spills on the floors will damage the surface and sometimes will create a slip/fall hazard. Tools left out or put away dirty lead to potential loss and deterioration. Dirty tools can be hazardous as well as unpleasant to use. They may slip, damaging the fastener and most likely your hands. Cleaning supplies and lubricants often end up with residue on the cans and bottles that make them sticky or slippery and can leave stains on shelves and cabinets if they aren't kept clean. A little effort invested in keeping things clean and well organized will pay big dividends in the convenience and pleasure of working in a clean environment with readily accessible tools and supplies. With that in mind, include convenient paper towel racks and/or hooks to hang shop rags and a handy waste basket for soiled paper towels and other trash.
Loose ends make things messy and make getting packed up to go home more difficult and time consuming at the end of your outing. Make sure you have a convenient designated place for everything. Hang up your tie downs neatly when you remove them from your OHV. Keep pairs together. Doing so doesn't make you a neatness freak, it just makes you organized and means you've got your stuff together and it will be readily accessible when you need it next. Having "a place for everything" also helps you keep track of tools and supplies so they don't get lost or left behind. An empty spot on a socket rail is a sure sign you need to check your work area one more time.
Anchor points for bungee cords are helpful to tie down items and keep them from migrating all over your RV on the road. If you have a pegboard rack, you can use pegboard fittings. In other places you might use ordinary cup hooks. What I like best for bungee cords are eye straps used as guides for ropes on sail boats. They are usually made of stainless steel to they are rust and weather resistant and are more secure and easier to use than cup hooks but are kind of pricey. A distinct advantage to eye straps or rope guides over cup hooks is are pretty smooth and don't have an open end for things to get caught on. Here is one source where can get them so you know what to look for: sample rope guide. They can be fastened on with two grabber screws so they hold better than cup hooks. You'll probably have to go to a marine store to buy them or order them on line. You can get them in black plastic or bright stainless steel.
Designing, building, and then using the custom features of your trailer can be a lot of fun and add a lot of convenience to your OHV outings. You'll be surprised how much easier (and even fun) repairs can be when you have the right tools in the right place at the right time. Almost any task can almost be fun when you have the right tools. Conversely, even the simplest task can be a pain in the neck (or a couple of feet lower!) if you DON'T have the right tools. And having the right tools means knowing where they are and having them where you can get them when you need them. If you can't find them or can't get to them, you'd be better off leaving them at home and saving the weight.
Commercial race trailer accessories can enhance the appearance and convenience of just about any OHV trailer. However, they tend to be a little pricey. In many cases they may be worth it. If nothing else, looking over the options may give you some ideas about how to better organize your own trailer. In some cases you may be able to design your own versions that are less costly and fit your exact needs even better than the ready-made products. In other cases, you'll need to come up with your own, personalized solutions.
External modifications. Some of the adaptations I've found useful include adding a bench vise and a place to mount my motorcycle tire changer and a flag pole holder to the trailer tongue. I added a waterproof 12-volt receptacle outside so I can plug in my portable strobe lights to help guide late arrivals to camp at night or to use other 12-volt accessories outside. I added bright 12-volt flood lights on the rear and side of the trailer to aid in after dark bike repairs. An awning on the curb side provides protection to park the bikes under between rides and extra "patio" space if needed. I also roll out a lawn-like artificial grass mat to reduce tracking dirt into the trailer. It also helps keep tools and small parts from getting lost in the dirt when working on the bikes. I ran pipes and connectors from the air compressor to all four corners of the trailer so I could hook up air hoses as needed to inflate tires or clean parts. I also have a strobe light on the top to help guide late comers to camp after dark.
Cosmetic considerations. The most important aspect of a utility trailer for hauling your toys is that it provides the utility you need, but many users like to customize their trailers to make them enhance their appearance. Painting or applying vinyl stripes to match the motorhome that tows the trailer fairly popular and makes the combination makes an attractive package. Professional racers often add graphics or even a complete vehicle "wrap" to promote their team or sponsor. Vinyl decals and murals are available in various sizes and motifs to represent or satisfy your personal tastes. If you choose to match your trailer to your motorhome you may be able to purchase over the counter spray paint that closely matches the color scheme on your coach and there are many different colors and sizes of vinyl striping tape, usually allowing you to get a pretty good match. If your motorhome has fancy swirled graphics you may be able to purchase the same pattern to apply to your trailer. If you are simply matching horizontal stripes like those on many older rigs, begin by thoroughly cleaning the trailer walls, then measure the positioning of the stripes on your motorhome and using a pencil and a straight-edge, mark the location of the stripes on the trailer. You need only make one line for installing vinyl striping tape but you'll need to mark both edges for painted stripes. You will need a good quality masking tape (use the blue or green painters' tape, not ordinary tan masking tape). Use the tape to define a clean line for the stripe and to secure newspaper to protect adjacent surfaces from over spray. Remove the masking before the paint dries completely to get sharp edges and avoid pulling off part the paint along with the tape. You can usually paint stripes up to about a foot wide with a spray can and get good results. Larger areas may need a more professional approach using a spray gun in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. It is best to remove attachments such as emlblems and the latches for holding your door open before painting rather than painting over them. It will give you a more professional looking result. It is also a good chance to clean up or repaint any rusty pieces. I like to use a "chome" metallic paint to refinish rusty or tarnished latches and trim pieces while I have them off. And don't forget to paint the screw heads to they'll match. Twist the screws into a piece of corrugated cardboard and spray them all at once. With a little creative effort and a bit of work you can have a toy hauler that closely matches your motorhome.
Make it YOURS!
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