Shopping for an RV

Shopping for an RV can be fun! There are lots of different types and models to choose from, each with its own unique features and capabilities. Exploring the various options can provide many hours of interesting and educational entertainment. Shopping for an RV can be similar to shopping for any other vehicle in some ways. You will want to consider brand, condition, features, mileage and price. However, there are other things to consider. You will want to do your homework before you venture out to start looking. The Internet is an excellent resource. You can read presentations by manufacturers and reviews by owners. You can compare prices at different dealers and among for sale by owner used units. You can check for recalls. The main difference between shopping for a new or used family car and an RV will be checking the condition of the coach and its appliances. Of course, if you've decided on purchasing a new unit, condition will not be of major concern since everything will be new and will come with manufacturer's warranties. The reputation of the dealer and the manufacturer will be things to consider.

Used RVs. Used or "previously owned" RVs can be an exceptional value, especially in today's slow economy. RVs don't typically log mileage quickly like cars and trucks and you can find units with very low miles at good prices. I recently saw a 21 year old motorhome with less than 26,000 miles on it and a 30 year old unit with only 42,000 miles.  However, low mileage is only one consideration. You may find serious problems even with a low mileage vehicle if it has not been properly stored and regularly maintained. On ANY used vehicle, check the tires and all mechanical components carefully. If you don't feel qualified to do so, hire a mechanic to go over the vehicle for you. Considering the large investment we make in RVs, the amount you pay a mechanic is a cheap way to avoid large, unexpected expenses.  These days even a simple carburetor overhaul will run about $500, so investing a $100 in having a mechanic check things out could save you plenty.  You will also want to inspect the condition of the exterior paint and roof and the interior and verify that all appliances are operating correctly. Some stale odors are normal but a strong musty or foul odor inside an RV is usually a sign of water damage such as dry rot that can be very expensive to repair.  Stains and soft spots in the floor, walls, or ceiling are another indicator of water damage. You may find RVs with cosmetic water stains on the ceiling or wall, but if the underlying structure is solid and the leak has been repaired, it is mostly an aesthetics problem. Short term leaks can leave stains but usually don't cause serious damage. Long term leaks usually result in dry rot, which can present serious structural problems even if they don't leave stains. Long term leaks don't always show up as stains inside an RV. The damage may all be inside the ceiling or wall. I always thought it interesting that dry rot occurs in wet wood! You'll find air fresheners hanging in a lot of RVs. Mostly that is just because people enjoy the fragrance and it mitigates cooking odors and normal stuffiness from storage. However, if the air fresheners or smell of cleaning products are overpowering, the seller may be attempting to cover up the foul odors from water damage. Examine the roof and look for damage to the surface and cracking of caulk around vents and other accessories attached to the roof. Dried out and cracked caulk will allow water to penetrate the vehicle. Don't be shy about testing appliances. RV appliances can be pricey to repair or replace so you want to know what you're getting into. Non-working appliances can help reduce the price, but you'd better know what it is going to take to get them fixed or replaced. Run the generator and test the microwave. Run the air conditioner(s) and the furnace. Test the hot water heater and the stove. Inspect the refrigerator. If it is moldy or stained or smells bad you may have trouble getting it clean enough to be comfortable using it. Turn it on. The cooling fins should get cold to the touch in a few minutes. Turn on the water pump and ensure that water flows freely at all faucets and the toilet flushes properly. Listen to see if the pump continues to cycle after all faucets have been turned off or for any hissing sound that may indicate a leak. Any un-repaired tears in carpets, curtains, or upholstery should be noted. You may be able to use that to help negotiate a lower price, considering you will bear the expense of making the necessary repairs. Un-repaired tears or other damage are often an indicator of poor maintenance habits in general so I am always suspicious when I find any lack of routine maintenance. On the other hand, accidents can happen to anyone, so unless the damage is excessive, I wouldn't worry too much about light damage that has been successfully repaired. Inspect the dump valves for any signs of damage or leakage. They often hang low enough to be damaged going in and out of driveways or traveling on rough roads. Repairs are usually not terribly expensive and can often be done by owners, but a leaking sewer system could delay your first trip.  Be sure to distinguish between worn or damaged valves and damaged holding tanks.  Valves are easily replaced;  holding tanks repairs can be costly and time consuming.

One kind of hidden value to pre-owned RVs is that they will often have a number of nice additions courtesy of the previous owner(s), things that were not part of the standard equipment but do add to convenience and comfort.   A few additions, such as power levelers might add to the Blue Book value but most accessories won't increase the price so its like you're getting them for free.

Timing. When is the best time to buy an RV? That depends on your priorities and your needs. If you need an RV now, NOW is the best time to buy. If you are flexible, you may want to time your purchase to take advantage of market conditions that favor your needs. You will usually find more units available in spring and early summer giving you a better choice, but prices may be higher because more people want to buy an RV for their summer vacation. On the other hand, if you are looking for the best price, look for end of season reductions in late summer, fall and winter, on both used and new units. Local RV shows frequently offer special "show prices" at RV shows, which are usually well below market or sticker price. Some RV shows include previously owned units as well as new ones.  It is fairly common to encounter high-pressure sales techniques at shows, encouraging you to "take advantage of the show price" before someone else grabs up the unit or the show is over and the price goes back up.   Personally I find such tactics repulsive and feel that reputable dealers don't have to stoop to strong arm tactics.  Their products and reputation should make the sale for them.  Fortunately, I've found salesmen at RV shows to less pushy than those on the lot and a lot less pushy than typical than used car salesman!

Dealers and salesman. RV dealers and salesman can be a valuable resource when you're looking to buy an RV. Good salesmen are often very knowledgeable and can help guide you to the right RV for you. A really good salesman will realize it is more valuable to help you find the right RV than it is to make a quick sale. Don't succumb to high pressure tactics. There are enough units and enough dealers out there so you don't have to give in to over-zealous salesmen. I generally walk off the lot if I'm hit with the "this offer is only good today" or "I have another buyer, but if you act now...." approach. In some cases there may be legitimate special advertised pricing that does expire, but frequently it is nothing more than attempt to force you to make a quick decision and you end up buying something you didn't want. If you find a unit you really like, make sure you know what its book value is, then make a reasonable offer. If you are willing to negotiate and accept some compromises, you can usually reach an acceptable arrangement.

Private party sales. When negotiating with private parties, it is good to know the book value of the vehicle you are considering. You might luck out and find a desperate or ignorant seller who will take your low-ball offer, but most likely the seller has done his own research and knows what his vehicle is worth. You can expect to pay somewhere between the trade-in value and the retail value when buying from a private party. Some specialty vehicles (4WD motorhomes, for example or other rare units like refurbished GMC front-wheel drive models) may command full "blue book" retail or even more from a private party, but that would be very unusual. The official "book" retail price includes the dealer profit, sales commission, and a margin for warranty services, none  of which a private party has to be concerned with. In most cases it will be a waste of effort and even offensive to offer less than the trade-in value, although I have seen deals where low offers have been successful. But those I've seen involve peculiar circumstances. Be wary of unusually low prices. In most cases, if a price seems too good to be true, it is. Very low prices often indicate hidden problems, but sometimes there are good reasons. In one case I know of, the seller and his wife both had health issues and needed a quick sale and they lived hundreds of miles from any dealer where they could wholesale their motorhome. He didn't have the time or money to deliver the unit to a dealer and was willing to let an interested buyer reap the benefits rather than going out of his way to add to the high profits of a not particularly helpful dealer. Some sellers just need to get out from under their payments and will transfer ownership for little or no money down just to get relief from hefty payments. Don't be afraid to ask the seller about his maintenance practices and if he has any maintenance records you can review. Some sellers will willingly share how they used their RVs. That can be useful information too. A unit that has only been used in full-hookup campgrounds and driven only on paved roads may be in better shape than one that has seen a lot of off-highway driving to primitive camp sites. But sometimes things can be deceiving. A unit with very low mileage may have only been used for short trips, like to local campgrounds or tailgating at sporting events. Lots of short trips are much harder on the engine and drive train than highway miles and appliances and other components may have endured unusual wear. High miles may be due to long distance usage. Lots of "highway miles" is usually a good thing. Highway miles are much easier on vehicles than stop-and-go city driving.  An RV that has been used for touring may have higher miles than one primarily used for tailgating at local sports events, but the touring use may yield less wear and tear.

Trade-offs.  As you compare RVs within your price range you're likely to find some older, high end units at about the same price as some newer, "normal" rigs.  Only you can decide if an older or higher mileage unit is more desirable than a newer one with fewer miles and fewer features.  An older unit may be an excellent value if it has been well-taken care of and may give you luxury options that aren't within your budget on newer vehicles.  You may have to decide between higher power and better fuel economy.  Class A motorhomes are usually more luxurious and have more features and larger holding tanks than Class C rigs, but Class C rigs,ironically, can usually sleep more people.

Ebay and other online sites can make shopping easier and save a lot of driving. I have purchased 2 motorhomes through Ebay. One I bought from a dealer and I should have been more careful. In spite of the dealer's frequent claims of having recently serviced the vehicle, I found it 3 quarts low on oil at my first fuel stop. The damage already done led to a early and expensive engine failure. Had it been a private party sale I would have been more thorough in my inspection prior to completing the deal. Most dealers are completely trustworthy. I just happened to get one who either by design or by accident, misrepresented the unit. The one I bought from a private party turned out to be a good buy. It served us for several years and then I passed it along to one of my sons who continued to use if for several more years. In the case of the problem RV, it was a kind of impulse buy when I wasn't actively looking for a "new" RV. I saw it on Ebay at a really good price and really liked the brand and the features. In fact, I kept that motorhome for many years and, after installing a rebuilt engine, it  served us very well. I had been actively looking for an upgrade when I bought the private party unit and had inspected quite a number of coaches for sale before settling on that one. That gave me a pretty good idea of features, condition, and price.  I should also mention that the one I bought from the dealer was an excellent value, even with having to replace the engine.  It was a Holiday Rambler and was top of the line in its day advertised to be the most luxurious motorhome ever.

Test drive. Always ask to test drive the vehicle. It should start easily. Listen for unusual noises and vibration and observe the exhaust. Wind noise may indicate loose or ill-fitting windows, vents, or doors. Blue smoke out the exhaust is usually an indication of excessive oil consumption. White smoke may indicate a coolant leak into the combustion system. Black smoke usually indicates the fuel mixture is too rich. Any of these conditions may require significant engine work, but an incorrect fuel mixture is usually pretty easy to remedy. Listen to the engine. It should run smoothly, with no knocks or pings. Diesel engines may produce more smoke normally than gasoline engines and often have louder engine noises. Squealing belts may not be very expensive to replace, but could indicate a lack of routine maintenance by the previous owner. Try to include various types of terrain on your test drive. Don't just drive it once around the block. You will want to see how it performs on hills and on rough roads. You will want to know how it handles on the freeway when passing or being passed by 18-wheelers. Excessive body roll from passing vehicles may indicate weak or worn suspension, which can be very costly to repair and can make handling the vehicle difficult or even unsafe. The transmission should shift smoothly and without the engine reaching high RPMs. It should downshift easily when climbing hills or when you kick down the accelerator such as when passing or entering a freeway on-ramp -- depending on your speed. Carefully monitor all the gauges. For one thing, you want to know if they're all working properly. For another, they may give you indications of potential problems if they are not within normal readings. This is also a good time to see if you are comfortable driving the vehicle. If you are not, perhaps you should keep looking until you find something you are comfortable driving. Are all the controls within easy reach? Do the mirrors provide adequate coverage for safety? Are you OK with the size? Be especially careful negotiating corners until you are completely comfortable with the way the unit handles. Hitting a curb or clipping a street sign or tree could create damage you would be responsible for and you sure don't want to be spending your RV budget to repair damage to someone else's RV or messing up your new rig! While driving on rough roads, listen for excessive rattles or creaking. You can expect some noise, but it shouldn't sound like its falling apart around you! Check all the lights, including clearance markers.  In some states you will have to repair any broken or burned out lights before it will pass a required safety inspection to get it registered.  Non-functioning lights, especially if widespread, may indicate serious wiring problems. If it has awnings, open them and inspect the condition of the fabric and the hardware.  The fabric should pull taught when the awning is open and shouldn't have any tears or bad stains.  All the hardware should work smoothly, with no unusual noises or binding.   Look inside all cabinets and exterior compartments. Watch for hidden water damage or damage from insects or rodents. Be very wary if you find water in exterior compartments. It may indicate a plumbing problem or defective seals on the doors.

Orphaned RVs can deliver exceptional value.  What is an orphaned RV?  It is one whose manufacturer has gone out of business.  Since the drive train and appliances are usually brand names that are still in business the only downside to owning an orphan RV might be getting body parts if they are damaged.  However, you may still be able to get parts in an RV junk yard and since many RVs are made of fiberglass or fairly standard aluminum panels a good body shop may be able to make good repairs even without factory replacement parts.  Being orphaned usually causes the resale price to drop, making them a good buy if the are in reasonable condition.  The price reduction works to your advantage when you're buying but could bite you if you happen to own an RV at the time its manufacturer goes belly up.  I have owned one or two orphaned RVs and they always delivered extremely good value.  The purchase prices were reasonable and I had no problem maintaining the mechanical components and appliances.  Fortunately I didn't have any need of body work, but, as I said before, I am confident a competent body shop could handle just about anything needed.

Happy buying!