Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, sailing, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
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Thursday, February 10, 2011

Camping in Wind!

Unless your sport is sailing, kite flying, or hang gliding -- or you have a wind turbine for power -- wind is not usually your friend. I've been in windy areas where I feared my RV was going to be blown over and I spent half the night lying awake, planning how to get me and my family out safely if it did. The rocking of our small Class C motorhome really was that bad. We were parked so the left side of the motorhome was facing the winds that came up during the night. Bad choice! Always try to park facing the prevailing wind if you can. I was younger then and didn't know better and there was not any wind when we parked.  Parking so you're headed into the wind has several advantages.  First, it presents a much smaller area for the wind to impact and second, the front caps are usually designed to be somewhat areodynamic.   In fact, I had a 35' Suncrest Class A that had a frontal wind coefficient about the same as a Jaguar XKE!  Of course the frontal area made the total resistance much higher, but still, it provided a lot less resistance than the huge flat side of the beast!  You may have noticed you can drive 50-60 mph in your motorhome without feeling too much wind affect but a passing semi generating a cross wind can nearly blow you out of your lane. Another consideration:  the relatively long wheelbase, compared to the side-to-side measurement also makes it more stable if the wind is coming from the front (or back) instead of from the side.

RVs, including motorhomes, trailers, and especially truck campers, are much more affected by strong crosswinds on the highway than when parked, so avoid driving in windy conditions if you can. On one trip in the Mojave Desert I saw an 18-wheeler lying on its side along Highway 14 near Mojave and figured that was a pretty good sign that it was TOO windy for safe RV travel! When I stopped for gas a few mile later I learned the fallen semi had been an empty, dead-heading back for another load so it lacked any cargo weight to help hold it down and had been there for a couple of days.  Even so, it was scary seeing a rig much bigger than my motorhome lying where it had been blown over onto it's side.  If you get caught in sudden winds, seek shelter if you can. You may be able to stop under an overpass or pull over next to the leeward side (out of the wind) of a sturdy building. Even just pulling off into a rest area or side street or along the road will be safer than continuing to drive, especially if you an find place to park facing the wind. A stationary RV is less susceptible to wind than one that is moving. When moving you may be blown into oncoming traffic or the buffeting of the wind may simply set up a rocking motion that is amplified by repeated gusts until your rig is blown over or into oncoming traffic or the effort to maintain position causes you to lose control. If you do pull over into a rest area or off the road, try to park so the front or rear of your RV, not the broad side, is facing the wind. Most RVs are designed so the front is somewhat more aerodynamic than the back. The only danger of facing into the wind is an increased risk of windshield damage from flying debris in extreme winds. External windshield covers may provide some protection against blowing small stuff, but will do little good if gale-force winds throw large debris in your direction -- and you may not feel like getting out in the storm to try to put them on.  The wind could rip them out of your hands and blow them away before you could secure them.  If they attach only by Velcro or snaps and not twist lock fasteners, the wind could rip them right off the rig.  Truck campers are probably the most dangerous to drive in high winds because they have a relatively high center of gravity. They may also be the most susceptible to cross winds in camp. Motorhomes, on the other hand, are generally more stable than truck campers or trailers because of the heavy automotive chassis and low-mounted holding and fuel tanks. Trailers are somewhere in between, more stable than truck campers, but less stable than motorhomes and are very susceptible to crosswinds. My grown son got caught in a crosswind on a major freeway that flipped his toy hauler trailer and his truck over onto their sides. By the time the trailer stopped sliding it had disintegrated to where nothing stood more than 6" above the frame except the generator and the big steel "loading ramp" style tailgate. The rest was shattered into unrecognizable pieces no bigger than your hand.  Fortunately he was blown over onto the median and not into oncoming traffic! Luckily, he was not injured, but both truck and trailer were totaled along with just about all the cargo in the trailer.

Winds can be a problem when you are getting in and out of your RV.   Strong winds may surprise you when you open the door, yanking it out of your hand and possibly injuring you and damaging your RV.  Think about that before you open the door and get a good strong grip on it.  Winds can also blow dust and debris and sometimes rain and snow into your rig.  Try to avoid opening the door as much as you can and keep a really good grip on it when you do.  Try not to leave it open any longer than necessary.  If you have parked with the front into the wind, the wind will push against the door when you open it instead of ripping it out of your hands if the wind is coming from the rear.

A secondary danger from winds is the debris they kick up. Dust, sand, tumbleweeds, garbage, even large pieces of wood and sheet metal can pummel your RV (or your body!), inhibiting visibility and possibly damaging windshields, windows, and the skin of your RV or your skin. Once again, you are safer when you are stopped than when you are moving, partly because the added energy of your vehicle momentum may increase the impact and the damage caused by debris. For example, if a 50 mph wind blows a metal garbage can lid into the front of a vehicle traveling 55 mph, you have a 105 mph impact. If the vehicle was stationary, the impact would have been only the 50 mph of the wind. The difference isn't necessarily going to save the windshield, but it may save occupants from high velocity shrapnel. Tornado force winds have been known to drive pieces of straw through solid oak doors and toss around heavy farm equipment like kids' toys.

Winds in camp are not as dangerous as they are on the road, but a wise camper will take appropriate precautions, like storing awnings, closing roof vents and windows, and securing any loose equipment. Make sure your patio mat is securely anchored to the ground or roll it up until the wind dies down. Also be aware of the potential of falling limbs if you are parked under trees. If you are camping in an RV equipped with slide outs You may also want to retract your slide outs during high winds.  The extra surface area and extended leverage of the slide outs may cause excessive rocking and rolling of your unit and could tweak the slide outs so they can't be retracted and/or no longer fit properly.  Awnings are especially susceptible to wind damage.  They can be very difficult to store properly in windy conditions so roll them up BEFORE the wind gets too strong.   Some high end awnings have wind sensor and use an electric motor to roll them up when wind is detected.  Hopefully they will detect the wind before it gets too forceful for the automated motor to roll it  up.  Just to be safe, if the wind starts to kick up you should roll up your awnings before the sensors detect it.  If you already have a campfire going you may want to put it out until the wind dies down and it is probably an exercise in futility to try to light a campfire when it is windy.  Even using a charcoal or gas BBQ can be difficult if not impossible in high winds.  I had to give up and take our hamburgers inside and fry them in a pan on the RV stove when the wind kept my BBQ from getting enough heat to grill to cook the meat.  And that was with a wind guard around the BBQ!  Strong or erratic winds can whip over or around a wind guard and wreak havoc with your attempts at cooking.

Stabilizing your RV. Stabilizing your RV when you are parked in camp will reduce how much it is rocked by the wind, which will, in turn, make routine tasks, such as cooking, eating, and sleeping, easier and more comfortable. Motorhomes with hydraulic leveling jacks are stabilized by the leveling jacks. But if you use leveling blocks under the tires to level your RV, the body will still bounce on the springs and suspension as it is buffeted by the wind or rocked by internal movement -- unless you add stabilizers. Many trailers have scissor style stabilizing jacks that can be manually cranked down to control bounce and assist with leveling. You might be able to use the camper jacks on a truck camper to stabilize it. Just be darn sure you retract them before moving the vehicle or you risk tearing the camper to pieces! Another, less expensive and less convenient option for trailers and some motorhomes are jack stands. They usually come in a set of four and are comprised of aluminum pyramids with adjustable extensions on top. Put one of these under each corner of any RV so it connects the frame and body (not the axles) to the ground and it will add significant stability. Standard stabilizers are probably not tall enough for many motorhomes. You may need special, high-rise stands or put additional blocks under them for them to work on motorhomes.  You may need a big (10" or 12") crescent wrench to spin the adjusting nut once the adjuster contacts the frame.  NOTE:  these kinds of stabilizers should NOT be used to lift heavy vehicles to level them.

It isn't always easy to estimate the wind speed when you are traveling in a vehicle but you can observe trees, bushes, flags, and the movement of debris in the wind to get an idea of how bad it is. There is a scale, from 0 to 12, that measures wind speed, 0 being calm and 12 being hurricane. You might want to familiarize yourself with at least some of the indicators. Click this link to view the scale: Wind Speed Estimator . One clue I remember is that when flags are flying straight out, you've got a gentle breeze of 8-12 mph.  Suffice it to say that if whole trees are swaying and huge pieces of debris coming at you, it is time to seek immediate and sturdy shelter!  How much wind you and/or your rig can handle depends on several factors, such as the type of rig, its orientation to the wind, its weight, and your experience and skill at controlling it in windy conditions.  Anti-sway bars and steering stabilizers can make it easier to control a large vehicle in the wind.   Weak suspension (poor shocks and/or springs) will contribute to handling problems in the wind.  Wind deflectors on tow vehicles can minimize how much the wind affects the trailer on the road.  Air Tabs are plastic devices attached near the rear of a trailer or motorhome to help control the way the wind whips around behind the vehicle.  I haven't had a chance to try them yet, but the reports I've seen say they make a big difference, especially when you're buffeted by cross winds from a passing semi truck. 

Wind is of even greater concern to tent campers. Tents that are not adequately anchored to the ground will quickly become uncontrolled kites when the wind picks up and you might never see them again.  You might think your heavy packs or other gear will hold it down, until you see your tent sailing off dribbling your valuables all over creation. Different styles of tents and methods of anchoring will have different capabilities to survive wind. Check the instructions that came with your tent or contact the manufacturer to find out how much wind yours can withstand. You will want to take down your tent and seek alternate shelter long before the winds approach the limits. Taking down a tent in even a mild wind can be difficult and even dangerous. You may find your tent provides enough sail to carry you across the campground or even make you airborne before you can get it rolled up if you wait too long. In any windy situation. even a little breeze, check your tent pegs and ropes frequently to make sure they remain secure. If even one comes loose it gives the wind something to get hold of and will greatly increase the risk of damage or being blown away as the loose part of the tent begins to flap.  As the wind picks up, you may want to add extra tie-downs to ensure your safety. Having weight inside your tent, such as gear or people, will help keep it from blowing away in moderate winds, but high winds may still pick it up and leave a trail of debris -- and bodies -- as it sails off. Blowing debris can seriously damage tent fabric. The heavier the fabric, the less susceptible it will be to flying debris. A thin nylon tent can be easily penetrated while a heavy canvas tent will be stronger, less susceptible to damage, and offer more protection to occupants and contents. Twigs and other small debris might easily damage thin tents. High winds can do amazing things. Tornadoes have been known to drive pieces of straw through 2" thick oak doors. Image what strong wind can do to nylon or canvas!

Securing your gear in camp is essential when the wind picks up. Canopies and camp chairs have large "sail" areas compared to their weight and can easily be blow over or blown away. Even fairly heavily loaded ice chests can be blown around by strong winds. They may be damaged or blown over and their contents scattered or even cause damage when blown into vehicles or other equipment. Dirt bikes and bicycles can be blown over, especially if they're broadside in the wind. All RV awnings should be retracted BEFORE the wind gets bad. Strong winds will wreak havoc with open awnings, causing severe damage to the awnings themselves, ripping fabric and bending or damaging hardware, and possibly damaging the RV itself. Standalone canopies should be taken down and stored.  Trash cans are very susceptible to wind and make a nasty mess to cleanup when they get blown over. They can also inflict serious body damage if blown into vehicles or people. Try to secure them to a tree or post or at least set them on the leeward side of a vehicle, building, or large tree to get them as much out of the wind as possible.

Campfires. Campfires and windy conditions are not very compatible. Wind is likely to blow embers or even flaming debris into surrounding brush, grass, tents, vehicles, or people. And getting a fire started in the wind is not easy. Besides that, it isn't a lot of fun sitting around the campfire in the wind! It is a good idea to put out the campfire whenever the wind picks up. If you MUST have a campfire in windy conditions, use some sort of fire box. We use the tub from an old washing machine, affectionately dubbed R2D2. For further information about this option, see my January 2011 post on Campfire Safety. There are several portable fireplaces available today commercially that will similarly limit the spread of embers while providing a safer and more comfortable fire. However, most of of these aren't as deep as a washing machine tub so you may have to limit  yourself to smaller fires.   It will be impossible to really enjoy a campfire if the wind continually shifts direction. If the wind seems to "chase" you around the fire, it is time to put it out and seek some other, out-of-the-weather form of warmth and recreation for the evening.  Wind will cause you to use up your wood more quickly.  The breeze will act like a blacksmith's bellows, fanning the flames.  While that may make the fire put out more heat the wind will take it away faster so its harder for you to stay warm and it will also burn up your wood faster.   Always put your camp chairs away or at least fold them up and lay them flat when you retire for the night.  You never know when a breeze might kick up and blow them onto the fire pit.  The heat left in the coals beneath a fire that hasn't been completely drowned can be substantial, enough to melt the plastic and even aluminum parts of camp chairs if they end up on top of the fire pit. 

Getting caught in the wind on your OHV, especially dirt bikes, can be very dangerous. Try to avoid riding in windy conditions or when a storm may be approaching. I've seen dirt bikes and their riders blown over flat by wind gusts on hill tops in the Mojave Desert. A gust hit just as two riders topped a small ridge and they were blown flat in something akin to the old Laugh-In TV show tricycle get-off. Wind may also kick up a lot of dust and make visibility difficult, greatly increasing the danger of not being able to see an obstacle (rock, tree, gully, mine shaft, stalled vehicle, RV, animal or fellow rider) in time to avoid a collision. If you do get caught in the wind try to find temporary shelter until it dies down. Large rocks, gullies (if it isn't raining), and groves of trees may offer you some respite. If you must keep going, hunker down on your ride to minimize wind resistance and adjust your speed according to visibility. Try to ride into or with the wind instead of across it. If your ride has lights, turn them on to make yourself more visible to fellow riders.

Severe winds. If you have an option, avoid camping in severely windy conditions. I had a reader inquire about the best ways to secure a travel trailer that they are living in while building a new home. They live in very windy area and he feared his trailer might blow over. Some of the suggestions I gave him might be helpful if you get caught in high winds while camping. First, always try to position your vehicle with the front facing the prevailing winds to minimize the impact forces on the vehicle.  The front presents a much smaller area for the wind to push against than the side and it will take a lot more wind to flip a vehicle end to end than to tip it over sideways. A second option you might adapt when camping is to tie down the whole trailer using awning tie downs. My third recommendation probably isn't very practical for camping and that is to install a skirt around the bottom of the trailer to prevent the wind from getting underneath it. Of course, take advantage of any available wind breaks -- rocks, buildings, fences, thickets, other RVs -- to reduce the force on your vehicle. But be careful how you arrange your vehicles to create wind breaks.  I've seen RVs and trailers parked close together in an attempt to create a wind wall -- and the result intensified the wind coming between them -- a demonstration of the venturi effect.  Also, stabilizing your RV will reduce rocking on the suspension, making it more comfortable for you and helping keep it on the ground by dampening movement instead of letting it build up under repeated gusts.

Once you've done everything you can to make your camp site as wind-resistant as possible, get in out of the wind and wait it out! Have some fun indoor games or other activities planned but continue to monitor conditions outside so you can take action -- or resume activities -- if/when the situation changes.  Just for fun, you might want to bring along a kite or two to play with when it gets windy.

Have fun, and don't blow it!

5 comments:

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