OHV Tools & Maintenance Supplies

OHV units often require some special tools beyond those you should carry in your motorhome, trailer, or tow vehicle or have in your regular tool box at home. This is especially true if your main vehicle needs SAE tools and your OHV needs metric as many do! Furthermore, specially designed tools are sometimes needed for even simple tasks on OHVs. For example, our Honda dirt bikes need a special spark plug wrench. Fortunately our bikes are 4-strokes which don't require frequent plug cleaning or changes like 2-strokes, but when it IS needed, the only way to reach the plug is with the factory-supplied spark plug wrench. Be sure to check your owner's manual and the tool kit that may have come with your OHV to make sure you have critical tools with you.  I have found that a pair of wire-tie pliers makes securing hand grips fairly easy and kind of fun.  They have a locking mechanism to hold the wire and a twisting segment to pull it tight and wind it so it doesn't come off.  If you're like me you'll find trying to do it with ordinary pliers rather cumbersome, but it can be done.

Maintaining your OHV in good condition and carrying a few basic tools on the trail will help ensure pleasant and successful rides. When we first started riding I told my boys "Don't ride out any further than you want to push your bike back" in case they had mechanical problems. I soon learned that wasn't very practical advice and it was far better -- and a lot more fun -- to have reliable equipment and sufficient tools and knowledge to make emergency repairs on the trail.

Some of the basic tools in your RV tool box can be applied to your OHVs. Screwdrivers, pliers, even sockets and wrenches, if they are the right configuration (usually metric on OHVs). You may be able to minimize your tool cost and keep down the weight you're hauling around by relying partially on your RV tool kit. Personally, I like to have separate tool boxes for my RV and in my motorcycle trailer. That way, if I use the RV without the trailer, I have whatever tools I need for the RV already on board. Likewise, if I take the trailer out and the bikes out without the motorhome I have the tools I need for the bikes where I need them. If you choose to keep separate tool kits, determine what sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers you will need to service your OHVs.

The very nature of trail riding exposes our OHVs to many hazards. Among the most common casualties are clutch and brake levers and flat tires. I've  patched tires on the trail and have had to ride a flat tire on my dirt bike many miles back to camp more than once. You can usually limp a dirt bike back to camp on a flat tire.  ATVs and UTVs, with their wider, softer tires, are more difficult to manage with flat tires. In any case, you want to fix the flat as soon as possible so you can continue to enjoy your outing. Changing a tire on an OHV is more tedious and frustrating than difficult. Anyone with modest DIY skills can manage it, but you need to plan ahead and bring the right tools. At least a pair of tire irons will be needed. A third one is often helpful. There are plastic clips you can buy to take the place of the third tire iron to hold the bead in place while you get a new grip. You will probably need a wrench, usually 12mm, to loosen rim locks. A spray bottle of soapy water is handy for lubricating the bead to make it easier to get it off and back on the rim. I also carry a can of baby powder to dust new tubes before installing them so they don't stick to themselves or the inside of the tire. When new tubes stick it makes it difficult to get them in place and increases the chance of pinching the new tube. Unless you will always have an extra pair of hands to help with changing a tire, another useful tool is something called a "Bead Buddy". I have seen a couple different versions. The one I have used is a set of yellow plastic clips you fasten to the bead at the point where you have one tire iron holding the bead so you can move the tire iron to get a bite on the next section. Another is a bent metal device that helps guide the bead over the rim. I haven't tried this one yet, but reviews give it good marks and claim its the best new tire tool in 20 years. Another alternative are tire irons designed with notches to hold onto the spokes. The one's I've seen are designed for bicycles but may be strong enough to hold motorcycle tires in place if not to lever the bead off the rim. The bottom line is, you almost always need 3 hands -- human or 'helper' -- to handle changing a tire. I also have bead tool that slips into the gap between the read and the rim. You use a hammer to driver it around the tire to separate the bead. I just came across another bead tool that clips to the spokes puts some leverage on the bead to hold it out of the way. Be sure to check out your options. Changing a motorcycle tire is a pain in the neck (or most likely about 2' lower!) so it is good to have all the help you can get.  I have a tire changing stand mounted on the tongue of my motorcycle trailer so I don't have to kneel in the dirt to change tires.  What a blessing that is after years of changing tires in the desert on the ground!

Once you've got a tire changed, you'll need to inflate it. I don't care how much hot air you and your buddies can put out around camp, none of you can inflate a tire with just your lungs. You'll need, at the very least, an old-fashioned tire pump. If you don't like the idea of all the effort it takes to pump up a tire (just try it sometime!) you may want to invest in some kind of air compressor. There are fairly inexpensive 12-volt compressors that plug into the cigarette lighter socket that make inflating tires on your OHVs pretty easy. Most of these are not adequate to handle larger truck or RV tires efficiently but may do the job on motorcycle tires, it may just take a little time.  I bought a 120-volt compressor specially designed for inflating vehicle tires for my motorhome. Of course I have to have the generator on the RV running to use it, but it has been a real time-saver (and tire saver) when I've needed to use it. If you have a 120-volt AC generator and have the room and weight capacity, you might consider bringing along a portable 120-volt compressor. I've found the "pancake" style compressors are adequate for most of my OHV/RV needs and are small enough and light enough to fit under the counter in my motorcycle trailer. And they're not that expensive, especially if  you get one on sale at Harbor Freight.  If you're into power tools they usually are adequate to run small impact wrenches and air ratchets for a short time. I keep an old fashioned tire pump in my motorcycle trailer just in case I can't use my compressor. I found a vintage heavy duty 12-volt compressor on ebay. It has a motor the size of an automotive starter instead of the little dollar-size things on the typical portable units and is capable of quickly building up pressure in the tank to inflate tires, clean parts, and run some small air tools like light duty impact wrenches.

Speaking of impact wrenches, there are cordless versions that are useful in camp but even non-powered impact versions that can be really handy for loosening tight, rusted, or corroded fasteners. Typically they are the same size drive as a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet and also have a variety of screwdriver tips. You place the appropriate tip on the targeted fastener, hold the tool in one hand, and strike it with hammer. The strike both drives the tip solidly into or onto the fastener and the internal design of the tool causes it to twist, hopefully breaking loose the most stubborn fastener.   Make sure the mechanism is adjusted so it doesn't tighten the fastener when you are trying to remove it.  Grip the business end of the impact driver and twist the handle to change the direction it rotates when struck.  These sometimes work better than air powered wrenches at breaking loose a fastener without stripping it. The power and speed of air wrenches on the other hand will often strip or break fasteners if you aren't careful.

T-handle wrenches are a kind of specialty wrench that make a lot of dirt bike and OHV repairs easier and faster.   They are essentially sockets permanently mounted on T shaped handles. They usually come in a set of about 6 wrenches, ranging in size from 8mm to 17mm sockets. Some sets also include a both flat-blade, and Phillips tip screwdrivers. The T-handles let you get some pretty good torque to loosen stubborn fasteners and, once loosened, you can twirl the shafts between your fingers to quickly spin them off. The size of standard T-handles limits them to my motorcycle trailer rather than my trail kit but there are compact versions to put in your fanny or fender pack to expedite repairs on the trail. T-handle allen wrenches are easier and more comfortable to use than the standard 'L' shaped wrenches and make a nice addition to your trailer or vehicle tool kit.

Levers: levers are easy to change. The key is making sure you carry spares in your OHV tool kit or RV. In the "olden days" many dirt bike levers were pretty much a universal fit and the same replacement lever could be used for either clutch or brake on many difference makes of bikes. Today, many OHVs have hydraulic clutches and disc brakes that often require unique levers -- unique to each make/model and unique to each side. So check your requirements and stock up on what you need. Factory levers are often quite pricey -- I've paid around $30 each for some disc brake levers, but after-market replacements are usually less expensive and are certainly adequate for emergency repairs to get you through a weekend.

There are various suggestions for how to avoid breaking levers but eventually, you're going to break one and then the only option is to replace it -- or try to ride using whatever little stub is left (NOT usually very effective, let alone safe or comfortable). One suggestion for prevention is to wrap Teflon plumbing tape under the clamps so the levers will spin on the bars if they hit something hard enough to otherwise break them. I'm told that reduces the number of broken levers, but if you hit it square enough, it is going to break anyway. My solution has been to use "bark busters" on my handle bars. These are metal braces that mount to the end of the handle bars and attach to the bars after looping around the hand grips and levers. I like to add the plastic hand guards to mine as well and, although my kids and some other riders give me a hard time about my "flower pots", I've not broken very many levers and I've never bruised or skinned my knuckles on a passing tree, bush, or rock. I'd rather have the scars on my plastic hand guards than on my fingers! Its a lot less painful!  They also provided some protection for my fingers from wind chill on colder days.  By the way, bent levers can seldom be straightened without breaking them. The metal they are made of is quite brittle and, if it doesn't break on impact, it usually will if you try to bend it back where it belongs.  If you bend a lever, either replace it or live with it.  Using a bent lever may be awkward, but it is usually better than having to used the stub that is left when it breaks trying to straighten it.

You will quickly learn that the more complete, appropriate, and convenient your OHV tool kit is, the faster you will be able to make repairs and get back on the trail. T-handle sockets are one of the best investments I've made. They work on most fasteners on my dirt bike and make removing and re-installing them quick and easy. A full size set is too big for your fanny pack or fender bag, but they are good to have in your trailer or RV for in-camp repairs and adjustments. There are smaller versions with interchangeable sockets that will fit in your "take-a-long" tool kit. Over the years I've found it very helpful to bring along some basic tools on every ride. One year I took a lot of teasing about having "everything but the kitchen sink" in the tool kit on the back of my dirt bike -- and that from one of the editors of a prominent dirt bike publication. I really tickled me when, not 20 minutes later, he flagged me down on the trail, now very grateful for my "excessive" tool kit, to help with emergency repairs on his bike.

I include a "Leatherman" type multi-tool in my fanny pack. It comes in handy for a variety of things, from tightening and trimming cable ties, which I carry in my fanny pack, to removing cactus from a fallen rider's arm. This is similar to Survivorman Les Stroud's favorite survival tool. Another item I've found useful is a small pair of Vise-grips or locking pliers. In an emergency they can be used on many sized bolts and nuts -- just be careful not to damage the fasteners. They can also be used as a temporary replacement for a broken shift lever. By the way, if your budget can afford it, spare shift levers are good to have in your stash of spare parts. Sure beats wasting time making a trip into town to buy one if you break one. And, with judicious shopping, you will probably spend less getting one from you favorite OHV dealer at home than you will out in some remote location that preys on those unfortunate enough to break down on the trail without spare parts.

If your ride has handlebars, you'll probably want to bring along some safety wire and a pair of wire twist pliers.  Handgrips are easily damaged or may just get loose on the trail and it is good to have a way of fixing the problem.  You can buy special glue for securing had grips but a lot of guys simply squirt some ordinary hair spray into new hand grips to both make them easier to slip on and give them a bit of adhesive to stay in place one the spray dries. Most handgrips have groove molded in near the flare on the open end to accommodated safety wire to keep the grip in place.  You can twist the tie wires with ordinary pliers, but having a set of special wire-tie pliers makes the job easier, faster, neater, and almost fun.

For convenience, I keep a limited set of tools in my fanny pack in addition to those in my motorcycle trailer. Many of the tools in my fanny pack are compact versions of the ones in my trailer. Over the years I've built up a pretty complete set of tools that I keep in my motorcycle trailer, along with spare parts (levers, tubes, and a variety of bolts, nuts, washers, and screws). When we first started riding we just hung basket style carriers on the bumpers of our little Class C motorhome to carry the bikes. Our first trip out I quickly learned that the tool box I had in my RV was woefully inadequate for use on my dirt bikes, hence the continuous buildup of tools, supplies, and spare parts in the motorcycle trailer. Eventually we went through a variety of different types of motorcycle trailers, ranging from a simple 4-rail bike trailer to a 19' construction office trailer that doubled as a motorcycle shed at home. I'm not recommending the construction office trailer solution. It served its purpose for us but is was HEAVY. We dubbed ours "The White Elephant". Make sure what you're towing it with has sufficient power and brake capacity to handle any trailer you pull. Small light-weight trailers probably do not have nor need their own brakes, but they are necessary -- and often required by law -- on larger, heavier units. Some medium duty trailers have "surge brakes". These are hydraulic brakes operated by a piston device on the hitch that applies pressure to the braking system when the trailer pushes forward against the tow vehicle when the tow vehicle slows or stops. Most larger trailers will have electric brake systems that required a corresponding brake controller on the tow vehicle.

Race Kit: when my daughter was racing I put together a portable "race kit" for her to take along to her races. I placed all the essential tools and a supply of spare levers and fasteners in one tool box that she could easily load into the back of her truck. And yes, my daughter is a skilled enough mechanic to take care of her own bike at the track. One of the many benefits of having started riding at about age 5 and sharing in the responsibilities for each outing. Now that she's a full time mom, I continue to use the "race kit" for day-trips when we don't take the trailer and as a convenient way of packing tools over to help a fellow rider.

For sure, having three or four tool kits is probably overkill, but it works for me. I don't have to worry about whether or not the tool box is on the RV or the bike trailer or on me or the bike when we are ready to go somewhere. And having the "race kit" standing by allows us to throw the bikes and race kit in the back of the truck and hit the road without having to gather up the tools we need -- which usually results in leaving something behind.

When assembling a take-a-long tool kit for your fanny pack or fender bag on your OHV, try to keep it to a minimum. The less weight you carry, the better. But you still need to make sure you have all the tools you need. And make sure anything in a fender bag is securely anchored. I've seen tools strung all along the trail from ripped fender bags. Loose tools bounce around and sharp edges on wrenches and screw drivers can make short work of even the sturdiest tool bags. I had an expensive tool bag fail after only a ride or two. You'll want to choose a well-padded fanny pack made for carrying tools or wrap them in something to pad them if you carry them in a standard fanny pack or back pack so they don't pound you on the trail or if you crash or rip the pack. You can use a fanny pack or a back pack. My daughter had a unique back pack she used when she was racing. It was in the form of a teddy bear. It helped us identify her in a pack of riders and became her trademark at her races. Whatever you choose, make sure it is sturdy enough to stand up to the task of transporting heavy and sometimes sharp tools over rough terrain. Fender bags or tank bags that mount to the bike are also a good way to carry tools. I once adapted a zippered denim shaving kit that outlasted my expensive fender bags. Some bags attach with clips and straps, some bolt through the fender. Obviously those that bolt on will be more secure than the ones strapped on. If your fender bag didn't come with rigid bottom insert (or you're adapting a shaving kit), cut one to fit inside the bag and use large fender washer under both the heads of the bolts inside the bag and under the nuts on the bottom of the fender to distribute the stress and prevent the fasteners from tearing through. A thin piece of Masonite or plywood or even a piece of plastic cut from any old milk jug will help. These days you can buy plastic cutting boards at dollar stores and they would make excellent inserts for a tool bag. You can buy a tool roll or make your own. A sturdy tool roll to keep things organized can be made from a section of leg cut from an old pair of blue jeans. Cut the leg open and hem the edges, then fold it over and sew pockets for individual tools into the folded over part. Leave some extra material at the top of the back side to fold over the top of the tools to protect them and help hold them in place. Cut the folded over portion at an angle to create different depth pockets for different sized tools. Lay out your tools and mark where the stitching should be to make the pockets the right width. You might want to sew on some straps to tie it up with, or use a small bungee cord or Velcro strap to keep it tight.

Trail kit options.  A couple of good options for your trail kit (back pack or fender bag) are a flashlight, a light stick, a Bic style lighter, and a pocket first aid kit.  You can pick up little aluminum LED flashlights at your favorite dollar store.  They are pretty durable and the LEDs are bright and allow the batteries to last a long time.  I carry a chemical light stick protected in a length of PVC pipe with non-glued slip on caps on both ends.  I also like to carry a rain poncho and/or an emergency blanket (about the size of a folded handkerchief).

Supplies. I was not well prepared for my first dirt biking trip. I knew enough to bring 2-stroke oil for the bikes, but was sadly lacking other necessary items, like replacement spark plugs. 2-stroke engines have a tendency to foul plugs and finding yourself many miles out in the desert without replacement is a sad state of affairs. I also soon found that mixing the oil and gas for my 2-stroke bikes was something of an art. As we acquired more bikes to meet the needs of our growing family, I soon discovered one oil/fuel ratio wouldn't work for all the engines. When everything ran well on a 40 to 1 mix, I could just add a pint of oil to each 5-gallon gas can. To manage multiple ratios easily I bought a measuring cup called a "Ratio-rite" that takes the guesswork out of preparing the right ratio. It is graduated for the right amount of oil to add to various amounts of gasoline. Then, I used a 1-gallon plastic gas can to mix the fuel as needed for each bike. In addition to 2-stroke oil you should carry a bottle of brake fluid that is compatible with the brake systems on your rides. Check the "DOT" number on the filler cap or in your owners manual to make sure you have the right stuff. Mixing differently rated fluids can result in poor performance or even brake failure. If you have liquid cooled engines, bring along some extra coolant. Check to make sure what is in your cooling system and match it. There are different types of coolant. Green is ordinary automobile antifreeze, but some late model cars and OHVs use a different formula that is orange. Some OHVs have a specialized coolant that is more environmentally friendly, and it is blue. Combining different types of antifreeze is not a good idea. The additives may be incompatible, reducing effectivity and possibly causing internal problems in the cooling system. You will need the right lubricants for your rides. Some OHVs use the same oil in the engine and transmission, some use different oils, so check the specs for all your rides and bring along some of each. Running a machine low on oil is a recipe for premature and costly engine or transmission failure. Other moving parts, like levers and cables will also need lubrication. WD-40 is my favorite, but I also like to have alternatives, like both wet and dry Teflon lubricants, and a good penetrating oil. White lithium grease is also good, especially for places that may be exposed to water.  If your vehicle is chain driven you'll need chain oil. In a pinch you can  use WD-40 on your chain or soak it in 40 weight motor oil.   Forks also take special fork oil and need to be topped off from time to time to maintain proper performance.   Spare parts, especially those most vulnerable, like levers and inner tubes, have saved our weekends more than once. I have found it useful to carry plastic polish and goggle cleaner to take care of goggles. Some kind of solvent is often needed when making repairs. My preference is brake cleaner, but I usually try to have a can of carburetor cleaner on hand too. In addition to cleaning fuel systems, it can be used to clean fouled spark plugs if you run out of replacements. Anytime you have to work on one of your rides you're going to need hand cleaner. My favored brands are Goop and GoJo. Be aware that these have a fairly short shelf life, especially if exposed to extreme temperatures. If you don't replace them frequently you're likely going to find slimy and ineffective liquid in the can instead of the creamy cleaner that works so well. I keep a couple of cans of SC-1 in my dirt bike trailer. It is a detailing spray I use to clean and maintain all the plastic on my bikes and gear. Not only does it make things look like new, it helps keep dust and dirt from sticking. Keep a tube or two of silicone RTV adhesive/sealant on board. It usually makes a pretty good gasket sealer and sometimes can even replace damaged or lost gaskets temporarily when making field repairs. Thanks to my wife's input, we also keep some hand lotion in our dirt biking supplies. Working with solvents will seriously dry out your skin and sometimes it just feels good after the chafing of gloves on a hardy ride.  While  you're at it, include a tube of Chapstick or Carmex for dry lips.  All the vibration on OHVs tends to loosen fasteners and they fall out on the trail. Bring along a "workshop" of replacements designed for your specific machine or a good variety of generic nuts and bolts and screws. A little "Loctite" will help keep them from coming loose again.

With a little practice and by observing the preparations of other OHV riders you will soon refine your OHV tool kits to meet your needs and ensure dependable emergency service during your outings. Be sure to inspect your take-along tool bags and inventory your tools and supplies often to make sure you have everything, that it is good repair, and you know where it is.  Having the proper tools and supplies will give you confidence and allow you to keep your toys running during an extended outing.  You should be prepared to share your resources with your fellow riders.  They will greatly appreciate it and, who knows, the next time you need help it may be their turn to rescue you!

Happy OHVing!