Boat Clutter

A boat or camper, like any other form of abode, will collect clutter if you don't make a conscious effort to avoid it.  It is just about as easy to accumulate clutter in a boat, an RV or camper as it is at home.  Fortunately, at least for us, there are usually fewer opportunities to collect unnecessary souveniers out on the water than in campgrounds or while traveling, but it is still way to easy to bring aboard items for a single outing that seem to never find their way back home.  And, while it may not be as likely to accumulate a lot of unnecessary stuff on a boat, it is likely to be more important to get rid of excess weight.  Excess weight in an RV can impact gasoline mileage if there is enough of it and, if heavy enough may affect the ride, performance, and safety.  On a boat, any excess weight is absolutely going to affect displacement -- how deep your boat sets in the water -- and that will definitely affect handling, performance, comfort, and safety much more than it does in an RV or tow vehicle.

Just like an RV or a set of camping bins, boats will benefit greatly from routine inventory and organization.  Often you may find it even more important to be sure you have everything you need on board and aren't carrying around a lot of extra weight.  Extra weight usually means a drop in performance for both power boats and sail boats and can affect handling and safety too.  Because there aren't as many places you can acquire more "stuff" out on the lake or the ocean, you might not accumulate excess as quickly as you would in an RV or even when tent camping, but it is way too easy to "bring along" something for a specific outing and leave in on board indefinitely.  Over time that can amount to a lot of extra weight and a lot of stuff you have to move or sort through when you need something.  A lot of things that seemed like a good idea at the time may turn out not to be necessities and might better be left on shore.  Every time you launch your boat and every time you have downtime at anchor is a good opportunity to check your inventory.  You gain at least three benefits from this:  1) identifying items that are used up, damaged or expired so you can replace them. 2) finding things you don't need on board all the time, and 3) locating things you need but might have forgotten where they were stowed.

Unseen boat clutter hides in cabinets and compartments.  This is where we tend to accumulate most of the stuff we don't need onboard.  However, it is essential to keep your cabin and cockpit well organized and free of clutter.  Loose ropes in the cockpit and on the deck are a serious safety hazard.  Same with any kind of obstacles that might impede your movement on deck.  Unrestrained items in the cabin and hold also get in the way and can become dangerous projectiles during violent movement, causing serious injuries to anyone in their way or serious damage to other parts of the cabin.  Keep things properly organized and stowed both on the deck and in the cabin and the hold.
 
There are very likely at least as many ways (or more) to organize your boat as there are sailors but there are some general guidelines that can make life easier.  Unless you have a really big yacht, space is going to be at a premium and you will want to make use of every bit you have and do it efficiently.  Some things, like cooking utensils and food related supplies obviously belong in the galley.  Things like boat hooks should be stored somewhere topside so you don't have to dig them out when docking.  Tools should be easily accessible.  My Venture 24 sailboat has a small compartment right where you step down through the companionway into the cabin that I found to be a good spot for my tools and spare parts.  They are out of the way of normal activity but quick and easy to get to when they are needed.  Things like life jackets and other flotation devices should always be within easy reach.  You want to be able to don your life jacket at the first sign of turbulent conditions and throwable flotation devices (used to aid passengers who fall overboard without a life jacket) must be immediately available.  Coast Guard regulations require you to have a life jacket on board for every passenger and it is not a bad idea for everyone to wear one at all times.  If you choose not to wear it all the time, ALWAYS make sure it is within easy reach and you know where it is.  Throwable floation devices, like life preservers and throwable cushions should be readily accessible from the cockpit.  Many boats have storage under the cockpit, accessible through one or more hatches in the cockpit.  This is also a good place for other things you might need while underway.  Some things need to be right at  hand, like the winch handle for sailboats.  When the boat is docked in port or the marina you might want to stow the winch handle inside to avoid it being stolen, but when sailing it is good to have it in a holster attached to the cabin bulkhead next to the companionway hatch. within easy reach of the winches.  Throwable cushions are a good way to add both comfort and safety to the cockpit.  They are a lot nicer to sit on than wood, fiberglass, or metal seats and are readily available if someone falls overboard.

Tool kits are essential to maintain your boat and effect emergency repairs out on the water.  However, you should try to limit your tool kit to just what you might need -- and know how to use -- to get back to the dock -- any dock -- if something goes wrong.   I have seen articles that suggest having cordless drills on board, but personally I think that, unless you have a large, powerful boat, they are likely to add too much weight and take up too much room for the few times you will actually find your need them.  And, most of us don't get out on our boats as often was we would like and the batteries are likely to be dead by the time we need to use the drill/driver.  I would recommend sticking with a basic set of hand tools that will let you take care of most routine tasks and basic emergency repairs.  Such a tool kit doesn't have to take up a lot of room or add a lot of weight.  And, as always, look for multi-use tools that can help minimize what you need to bring along.  Some basics to consider include pliers, wrenches, screwdrivers and and adjustable wrench like a Crescent wrench.  Check to see if your boat has any fasteners with special heads that might require square drives or torx bits.  I have seen recommendations to carry cordless tools like drill/drivers on your boat.  I carried one on my sailboat for a while but found I didn't really use it often enough to warrant to extra space and weight it took.  I left if out when we switched boats.  I think I might carry little Worx 4.5 volt cordless screwdriver though.  They take up little room, don't weigh much, and are surprisingly powerful and can probably handle anything I would want to attempt out on the water.

After you've had your boat for a while it is a good idea to take time to go through and take inventory of everything you have on board.  Over time some needed tools or supplies will get lost or used up or become outdated and need to be replaced and you will tend to accumulate miscellaneous items you don't need on every trip.  Taking time to take inventory lets you get rid of unnecessary stuff, replace important missing or damaged items, and, in general, refresh your memory of what you have and where it is.  If you find stuff you never use, seriously consider taking it home unless it is a critical tool or survival item.  When you find damaged or missing tools, replaced them.  Outdated supplies should be discarded and outdated or used up supplies replaced.  It might also be a good time to consider how effective your current organization plan is and to relocate frequently used items to where they will be more easily accessed.  However, because we are creatures of habit there is sometimes great value in keeping things where "they've always been" rather than moving them to "where they should be".  It is also more important to be sure you have essential items and can find them quickly.  Emergencies on the water are usually unforgiving.

Deck and Cockpit clutter is particularly dangerous.  When you are underway you need to be able to move about the deck or cockpit safely and have ready access to all instruments and controls.  Clutter on the deck or in the cockpit can seriously impact your ability to safely handle your boat and keep your passengers safe.   Any loose items can become dangerous projectiles if there is an violent manuevers or rough seas.  It is all to easy to let sheets and halyards on a sailboat pile up and they become trip hazards or get tangled so you can't use them when needed to adjust the sails when the wind changes.   Likewise, dock lines on all boats need to be carefully and safely stowed, both on the boat and on the dock.

There are SO many nice gadgets and goodies for boats it is really easy to accumulate a lot of seemingly worthwhile items.  However, if you don't find them useful or don't use them often, you might be better off  tucking them away in the garage until you are ready to use them.  Otherwise you may find your boat cluttered with "good"things.  Space on boats tends to be even more precious and limited than in RVs so you REALLY need to make the most of by getting rid of unused or unnecessary things.  As we prepared to put our boat in the water this spring my wife and I agreed we needed to go through all the little cubbyholes and clear out unneeded items.  Sometimes it is hard to decide what to remove, but lightening the load not only reduces the weight and displacement of the boat it makes it easier to find and use what you leave on board.  Sometimes you can have too much of good things.

Boats can also accumulate unwanted stuff on the hull below the waterline.  A buildup of barnacles, algae, and/or other materials will add weight and resistance.   Stuff might build up on the hull, rudder, and propeller.  You would be surprised how much drag even a coating of algae can  create.  Boat bottoms require special paint.  Usually it contains copper to reduce growth of barnacles and is designed so ablation helps keep junk from adhering.  While that helps keep the bottom clean, it does mean the bottom must be repainted on a regular schedule to maintain protection, performance, and appearance.  The same applies to rudder, propellers, center boards, and any other equipment that resides below the surface.  Consider the sheer square footage of surface area of the hull underwater and what happens when the slick, freshly painted surface gets covered with algae, barnacles, or other debris.  Any accumulation on or deterioration of the bottom paint can have negative consequences.   Even a small percentage increase in the coefficient of friction when multiplied by the surface area is going to have a big impact on performance.  Even if you are not racing you want your boat to move through the water as smoothly and easily as possible.  In some jurisdictions there are stringent rules about keeping hulls clean to prevent the spread of undesirable and invasive species that attach themselves to boat hulls so there may be legal requirement to keep your boat clean too!

Clean it up!

Cordless Tools for Camping

Power tools for camping?  Are you kidding? One of the reasons we go camping is to "get away from it all", so why would you want to take power tools camping?  Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose?  Well, perhaps, but we do still enjoy our modern conveniences.  There are lots and lots of screws on motorhomes, travel trailers, and campers and having a cordless screwdriver to keep them all tight can be really nice and save a lot of time and effort.

Our modern technology has produced a plethora of  cordless tools that add convenience and make many tasks easier.  Some of these can be used in an RV, on a boat, or even when tent camping too.  Being cordless they can be used just about anywhere without the need for direct access to 120 volt power.    I've even seen them recommended for use on sailboats.  Of course, you will either need some way to recharge the batteries or bring along plenty of fully charged batteries to last more than a day or so.  Solar battery chargers are a convenient way to recharge many types of batteries.  If you can't find a solar charger for your cordless battery you might be able to use a solar panel and an inverter to power the factory 120 volt charger.  Even the little 150 watt inverters that plug into a cigarette lighter should be powerful enough to charge batteries for cordless tools.  If you use such a device, be sure to monitor the charge off the 12 volt battery (RV, boat, or vehicle battery) is it connected to.  Be especially careful when charging them off the vehicle starting battery except when the engine is running to avoid drawing down the battery and being unable to start your vehicle.  Considering the weight of cordless tools and the space they take up you will want to be sure they are worth bringing along.  If you seldom use them, you should probably leave them at home, especially the larger, heavier ones and even more especially if you have space or weight limitations.  Be sure to plug them in a day or so before each trip to make sure they will be ready to use when you need them.

Perhaps the most familiar and most popular cordless tool is a drill/driver.  These are available in a variety of sizes.  Size is usually defined by the largest drill bit the chuck will accept.  1/4', 3/8" and 1/2" units are typical.  Another measurement is power, which is usually determined by the battery voltage.  Common drill/driver batteries are 12, 18, and 20 volts.  As you might expect, the higher the voltage, the more powerful the drill.  Recent advances in battery technology have further enhanced the strength and performance of power cells for drill/drivers.  The older 12 and 18 volt batteries had a tendency to be heavy and to take a fairly long time to charge.  Modern 20 volt lithium-ion batteries are usually lighter, hold a charge longer, and charge faster.  Lithium-ion batteries also continue to deliver satisfactory performance right up until the charge is gone, whereas with older style batteries the power would slowly decrease as the battery lost charge.  Sometimes that comes as a surprise to the user when the device just suddenly stops working, as if a switch or connection had failed.  If your lithium-ion powered cordless device stops working, be sure to charge the battery before concluding it is worn out or has failed.

A drill/driver is a handy tool to have around an RV.  There are hundreds of screws that hold things together.  Sometimes they need routine tightening; sometimes you need to remove panels or disassemble components to do other work.  A drill/driver makes these tasks faster and easier.  If you routinely do your own maintenance you will quickly find a cordless drill/driver indispensable for things like installing, removing, and replacing things like roof vents and windows.  However, you probably won't be replacing vents and windows in camp very often but it can be invaluable at home!

Why not just use a 120 volt drill if I have 120 volt power available?  I suppose you could for some things, but the cords often get in the way or restrict access to where you can use them.  In addition, and perhaps more importantly, cordless drill/drivers have a clutch system built into the chuck that allows you to select a torque setting so you don't over-drive a screw and sink it below the surface.  A screw isn't going to hold a panel in place if it is driven all the way through the panel.  BTW, 120 volt drills are usually more powerful and will be faster if you're drilling a lot of holes, especially in heavy materials.

Another cordless tool I have found extremely useful around home and in my RV is a Worx brand cordless screwdriver.  It is only 4 volts, with a built in rechargable battery.  In place of a chuck it has shaft with a 1/4" hex socket.  It has a feature not found in larger drill/drivers, but is extremely useful:  the shaft can be extended to reach into places that the fat chuck on a regular drill/driver can't possible fit.  You can get a variety of  1/4" hex drive bits to fit the socket.  I even have a set of a few small drill bits with hex drives on them.  I was pleasantly surprised by both the power and how long a charge lasts, especially for such a small, low voltage  unit.  It is light weight, easy to use with one hand, and stores easily in any tool box or kitchen drawer.  It does not have the clutch feature of larger units but, even though it has plenty of power to drive long screws, it generally doesn't over-drive them.  It doesn't have the high speed and high torque of a regular drill/driver for drilling holes, but will work for some light drilling using hex-shanked drill bits.  If I only had the room or the budget for a single cordless tool for my RV, boat, or camp kit, it would be a Worx 4 volt screwdriver along with a variety of screwdriver and nutdriver bits an some hex-shank drills.   These are small enough and light enough to take just about anywhere, even as part of a boat took kit.   With the high number of screws that secure many parts of an RV, a power screwdriver can save a lot of time keeping things together on the road.

If  you do a lot of OHV or other mechanical work in the field, you might find a cordless impact wrench to be a good addition to you tool kit.  I keep one in my motorcycle trailer.  You can sometimes  use nut drivers in a cordless drill/driver for many routine tasks, but if you really need to loosen a tight fastener, an impact wrench is what you'll need.  One task for which I have found that is almost impossible to do without  damaging parts without an impact wrench is disassembling the clutch on my dirt bikes.  I've seen guys try to secure the "cage" with some kind of lever (a screwdriver, wrench handle, lug wrench, or crow bar) while loosening the nut with a socket and ratchet, but often as not it ends up damaging the cage.  An impact wrench can spin the nut loose without damaging the cage.

You can even get battery powered soldering irons.   I have one about the size of a penlight and it works pretty well for light duty soldering of electronic parts and runs on ordinary AA batteries.

Bits and accessories.  To get the most out of your cordless tools you will need the right selection of bits.  Look for a kit than contains a variety of bits:  2 or 3 sizes each of flat and Philips bits, some hex bits, and some torx bits.  On many RVs  you will also need a square drive bit.  Also carry a set of twist drills with hex shanks.  Nut drivers, both SAE and metric, are available with 1/4" hex drives that fit the same 1/4" hexsockets as standard screwdriver tips letting you use our power tool in even more situations.  Something I have found handy are extra long screwdriver bits.  Many of the variety packs of bits have bits that are only about an inch long and are intended to be  used in a extension gripped in the chuck of the drill/driver.  Standard bits commonly used in drill/drivers for most tasks are about 1 1/2" long.    Some are reversable with a Philips tip on one end and a flat tip on the other.   I like to have a few 3-4" bits on hand to reach past obstructions.   That has been less of a factor for me since getting my Worx screwdriver with the extendable shaft, but they are still useful to have.

For those with bigger budgets you can even get cordless chain saws for ease in handling your fire wood.   I wouldn't want to count on one to match a gasoline powered model for cutting a cord of firewood, but for light use around camp they should be great.  The only major downside I've seen so far is that they tend to be a little pricey, but when the prices come down I plan to add one to my motorhome to replace an old 12-volt chain saw I've had for years.

There are even cordless kitchen appliances you might find useful.  Some options include cordless blenders, mixers, and knives.  The power requirements for cooking appliances (like electric frying pans stoves and ovens) are pretty much beyond the capabilities of current battery technology but as batteries improve you might start to see them coming on the market.  For now, cordless blenders and mixers can make some food preparation tasks around camp easier.

Just about any cordless tool you might use in your RV or boat might also be used when tent camping.  However, the opportunities to use power tools when tent camping will be more limited than when camping in an RV or maintaining a flock of  OHVs.  There just aren't very many places you need to drill holes or drive or tighten screws in a tent!  Of course, weight and space considerations will be significant factors in deciding what cordless tools you might want to bring along, especially if you have to hike in any distance to your camp site.

Keep your cordless tools charged!  Stocking your RV or camp kit with cordless tools won't do you any good if they aren't charged and ready to go when you need them.  Check the manufacturer's charging instructions.  Some can be left on the charger indefinitely so they are always fully charged but some caution you to avoid over charging and leaving those on the charger will damage the battery.  Since most of us don't get to enjoy our RVs as much as we would like, it is too easy to forget about our cordless tools until we need them.  It might be a good idea to have pre-trip checklist that includes charging your cordless batteries a day or two before your departure (along with turning on the fridge to pre-cool it before each trip).    If possible bring along a way to recharge batteries for cordless tools as necessary during your trip.  If you have an RV with a generator you can just plug in the charger anytime you are running the generator.  If you don't have a generator or are car camping, pick up an inexpensive inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter so you can plug your cordless chargers into it when necessary.  I use a portable inverter to recharge cordless batteries on my boat where the 12 volt deep cycle battery is maintained by a solar panel.

We don't always think of radios as tools, but in reality they often are.  They are sources of information, entertainment, and communication.  Portable radios, both simple receivers to have access to news, weather, and entertainment and two-way radios to facilitate remote communications, are very valuable cordless tools for camping, RVing, boating, and OHVing.  Having solar charging capabilities or a built in crank powered generator can make them even better suited to outdoor recreational  and emergency use.

Cut the cord!

OHV Insurance

If your OHV is financed you will probably be required to have insurance to protect the lender in case it is damaged, destroyed or stolen.  Some states require insurance on some ATVs.  Some off road riding areas require insurance.  Be sure you know the insurance requirements where you intend to operate your OHV.

If your OHV is a "dual-sport" or street legal vehicle you will have to have insure it just like you do any other vehicle operated on public roads.  However, you may want to make sure your policy covers off highway incidents so make sure you agent knows it will be used as a dual-sport vehicle.

Even when insurance is not required it is a good thing to have.  Surprisingly, your home owners liability insurance may cover some OHV incidents, but not always.  Given the tort-happy legal environment we live in, having liability insurance to protect you in case you run into someone else out on the trail can protect you against possibly significant law suits.

Like most vehicle insurance policies, you can usually chose varying levels of coverage.  The greater the degree of coverage, the higher the premiums will be.  Some coverages even include allowances to replace riding gear that is damaged or stolen.  Expect the premiums for comprehensive coverage to be somewhat high because the risk of physical damage to off road vehicles is often considered higher than it is for vehicles only driven on public roads.  The very nature of off-road activities tends to lead to more chances of damage.  

Not all insurance companies offer OHV protection.  You can always check with the provider of your automobile policy but you may have to find another company to get OHV insurance.  I have personally confirmed that both Geico and Progressive offer OHV insurance.  As always, you may able to save money or get better coverage by shopping around for a policy that meets your needs and your budget.

Be properly protected!

RV Insurance

Like any other motor vehicle, RVs must have liability insurance to be driven on public roads.  However, as always, comprehensive and collision coverage is normally optional unless it is required by a lien holder.  Given the high cost of many RVs and their accessories, comprehensive coverage might be considered extremely valuable.  For example, a good RV comprehensive policy will replace your awning if it comes unfurled on the  highway or you catch it on a tree in a campground.  Not all automobile policies will cover RV accessories if you simply add your RV to your car insurance.

You might  be able to add your RV to your  automobile policy, but unless they are already well known for covering RVs, chances are you won't get the best deal or the best coverage.  The time I tried to add my RV to a very good automobile policy they quoted me a premium that was more than double what I'd been paying for RV coverage previously -- and the coverage they offered was limited.

Companies that specialize or at least provide some focus on RV policies understand that RVs are different than cars and often, if not always, offer coverage that specifically targets the special features of RVs (such as awnings, roof air conditioners, etc).

The folks at reviews.com have done a very good job at exploring and recommending RV insurance.  Check out their report at www.reviews.com/rv-insurance.  If you still want to look at other companies or just want to confirm that you're making the right choice, listed below are some things to consider.

What should you look for in an RV policy?  First of all, you will want to make sure you are dealing with a reputable company that is stable enough to pay claims if you have any.  If you don't recognize the name of the company, try looking it up on the Internet or check the Better Business Bureau where the company is located.   You will want to confirm financial stability and their claims history and  customer satisfaction.   A significant factor in considering any insurance policy is always the premiums.  However, low premiums, attractive as they may be, might be deceptive.  Make sure  you know and are comfortable with the coverage you get.  Unusually low premiums are usually connected with unusually low risk (e.g., low coverage).   You could soon find any premium savings eaten up when you discover something  you thought was covered isn't.  Better RV policies will include coverage to replace a damaged awning or a roof A/C if you happen to drive under a low hanging obstacle and damage it.  Such coverages are usually excluded when an RV is added to an ordinary automobile policy.

Liability insurance is usually required by state law before you can operate your vehicle on public roads.   Most companies are familiar with the minimum legal requirements and won't offer any coverage less that that required by law.  However, for  your own protection, make sure the coverages are, at the very least, adequate for your jurisdiction.  Depending on your personal financial situation you may want to increase liability coverage.  Doing so will, of course, increase your premium, but, in the event you are in an "at fault" accident you will have higher coverages to protect your personal assets should the other party sue you for damages.  There is nothing that requires them to accept what your insurance will pay as payment full.  If you have a policy with low limits, it will help keep  your premiums low, but you may find yourself facing a court judgement forcing you to pay for damages not covered by  the limits of  your insurance policy.

Should I buy collision and comprehensive coverage?  This decision is usually based on financial considerations.  While is is always nice to be fully covered if anything happens to your RV, only you can decide if the cost of full coverage is justified.  Just like other vehicles, the value of RVs decline as they get older so there often comes a time when collision and comprehensive coverage aren't worth the extra premiums.  Collision and comprehensive are usually required by the lien holder whenever your RV is financed, regardless of the age or value.  They want to be sure their collateral won't disappear if you have an accident.

RV comprehensive coverage usually includes RV specific features or adjusted limits to accommodate the higher value of RV components and contents.  As previously mentioned, awnings and roof A/Cs are usually among the extras included in a good RV comprehensive policy.  Another thing to look for is higher coverage for contents.  RVs are very likely to have contents that greatly exceed the normal content limits for ordinary cars.  Think about what you have in  your RV (appliances, entertainment systems, personal belongings, recreational equipment, electronics, etc) that you don't carry around in your ordinary car and look for a policy that will cover those items if they are lost, damaged, destroyed, or stolen.

One popular  feature among RV policies is being able to declare the vehicle non-operational while in off-season storage and pay a lower premium while it is in storage during the off season.   Such policies usually require you to have full coverage and the comprehensive part of the coverage remains in full force while the vehicle is in storage, but the liability and collision features may be suspended.  If you take advantage of this option, be sure to notify your insurance company before  you get your RV out of storage for a new season so your all your coverage is in force before  you drive it again.

Unlike motorized RVs, towable RVs usually don't require liability insurance, although it could be required by a lien holder.   If your RV is paid for, all coverage is optional for a towable but you still need liability insurance on the tow vehicle.   Again, you must decide whether the cost of the insurance is worth it to you.  Basically, the more valuable your RV, the better it is to have it fully insured.  Personally, I have never carried any kind of insurance on my towable RVs.  They have all been older units whose value didn't justify the cost of the insurance.  Over many years I have saved enough in premiums to pay to replace any of my towables.  But had one been involved in an accident early in the process, that might not have been the case.  Your car insurance usually covers liability associated with trailer it is towing should it cause damage or injury.

There are a few other types of insurance offered to RVers.  They include mechanical repair insurance, road hazard protection for tires, and trip insurance.

Mechanical repair insurance is only available to newer units under a certain number of miles, but it is kind of like an extended warranty.  Such policies usually cover just about all mechanical breakdowns, but always be sure to read the terms and conditions and make sure you follow all necessary maintenance guidelines and adhere religiously to claim submission requirements.  Failure to prove performance of required maintenance or not following claim approval procedures exactly can often result in a denial of your claim.

Road hazard is usually an option available when you buy new tires.  It will usually replace a tire that is damaged from hitting something on the road  It could be debris or even just a nail you might have picked up.  Road hazard is sometimes included at no extra cost when you buy tires but even if you have to pay a few dollars extra it is usually worth it.  RV tires are expensive and there are way too many things out there on our highways that can cause us to blow a tire.

Trip Insurance usually aids you in getting your RV home if  YOU become disabled during a trip.  There are also general trip insurance polices you can buy that may include Baggage, Travel Delay, Medical and Dental, and Emergency Assistance and Transportation.  If you are traveling in an RV and may need to have it brought home, make sure you purchase a policy that includes that option.  General trip insurance is typically designed for people traveling by air or train and usually doesn't cover bringing your RV home.
  
Be sure!

Boat Wiring

In some ways wiring on boats is similar to wiring on RVs, but there are also some very important differences.   One that is often overlooked but is very important is the need to use Marine Grade wire in all marine applications.  Another is the need to waterproof connections.  Also, most RVs use only 12 volt DC systems for the living quarters.  Boats may use 12, 24, or even 48 volt DC systems.

Marine grade wire.  The high humidity and often, exposure to salt air, demands the wire itself be specially designed for the marine environment.  Marine wiring will typically have more, smaller copper strands than automotive wiring of the same gauge.  Each strand will also be tinned.  Using ordinary copper wiring on a boat is asking for trouble.  I had to completely rewire our 24' sailboat because some previous owner (perhaps even the factory!) had wired it with zip cord!   I understand that zip cord is readily available, inexpensive, and easy to work with, but it corrodes way too easily to last very long in a marine environment.  That being said it might have already lasted nearly 50 years since my boat was that old so for short term use it might not be quite such an issue.  Virtually all  the connections were badly corroded and crumbling.  Several connections had literally turned to dust!  Fortunately, it didn't cause a fire, but virtually none of the fixtures or connections were functional and none could be salvaged.

Waterproof connections are needed to prevent moisture from accelerating corrosion where wires are joined to connected to fixtures.   The first step is to solder all joints rather than using crimp terminals.  Then use heat-shrink tubing or coat the joint with a liquid sealer like that used to dip handles of hand tools.  Wrapping joints with electrical tape is perhaps better than nothing, but usually doesn't completely seal out the ever-present moisture in marine environments.  Moisture will eventually find its way through even the tightest tape windings.  I recently saw a Youtube showing hot to waterproof a wire connection by rolling the connection in the melted plastic from a milk bottle cap.  Just melt one edge of the rim of the cap using a lighter or blowtorch and roll the connection in the melted plastic until all the naked metal is covered and sealed over the remaining insulation.

Like RVs, boats may have two or more wiring systems.   Power boats will have a wiring system for the engine, including instruments and controls.  Small pleasure boats may have a low-voltage (usually 12 or 24 volts) DC system for lights and some communications equipment.  Larger boats sometimes use a 48 volt DC system and may have an onboard generator or batteries and an inverter to power 120 volt AC systems to support residential style lights, outlets, and appliances.  The 120 volt wiring systems will normally conform to stringent marine codes that are typically an enhancement of residential wiring codes.  Older DC systems will probably use red conductors for positive and black conductors for negative lines just like homes and RVs.  Because of the potential confusion between black for negative DC and black for hot AC lines, newer marine systems use a yellow conductor for negative DC lines.  Of course the electricity doesn't care what color the insulation is so any color wire will carry the current, but the electrician who works on it (whether is is you or someone who comes after you) will care so try to adhere to the normal conventions.  It will avoid future problems.

Because boats are often made of wood or fiberglass it is mandatory that every fixture has a ground wire  and that the ground connections are clean and secure.  A loose or corroded connection will cause performance problems such as dim, intermittent or flickering lights.  They might also cause arcing which could cause a fire or, if fuel fumes are present, even an explosion!  Land based motor vehicles usually have a metal frame which can serve as a ground, but wooden and fiberglass boats need separate ground wires to every fixture or appliance.

For durability as well as convenience and a good appearance when running wiring, use multi-conductor cable rather than running 2 or more individual lines.  It will be quicker and easier to install and will give a more finished appearance and will be less subject to wear from being rubbed.  The additional insulation surrounding the combined conductors also provides extra protection against moisture and abrasions that could cause a short giving an extra measure of safety and longevity.

Navigation lights are critical on a boat.  You never know when you might be caught out after dark, even if you usually plan on being off the water well before sundown.  It is especially important that wiring for navigation lights is robust and won't succumb to corrosion and leave you dark when you need it most.  Modern LED navigation lights consume much less electricity than older incandescent lights and the LED bulbs last for thousands of hours.  With proper wiring you should be able to count on your LED navigation lights for many years.  There are three primary navigation lights:  red, visible from the port side; green visible from the starboard side; and white, visible from the rear.  Some combination red/green lights are also visible from the front.  Another light often required is a 360 degree white light mounted high above the navigation lights for a boat at anchor.  On a sailboat it is usually mounted on the top of the mast.  Note:  some inexpensive LED lights create radio interference if mounted near antennas, radio cables, or electronic equipment,  If mounting LED lights where radio interference might be a problem  go for the more expensive lights that are RF protected.

Like most jobs, having the right tools will make things easier and make better connections.   While it is possible to strip insulation from wire using a knife, a wire stripper is faster, safer, and does a better job.  If you are using crimp terminals anywhere you will need a wire crimper.  I've seen folks try using pliers and it just doesn't work!  You really need the indentation crimpers make to form a good connection.  Just smashing the two sides of the terminal together with pliers will let the wire slip out if there is ever any tension on the wire at all.  A good soldering iron is also very useful.  Soldered connections will be sturdier and less susceptible to marine corrosion than crimped connections, making them last longer and less likely come apart or to cause a short or a fire!

If you have a sailboat, I recommend pulling some extra wire through the mast when you have the mast down.  Or at least leave yourself a pull string for future use.  You may need to install or repair an anchor light or steaming light and it is a LOT easier to pull wire when the mast is down instead of having to climb the mast.  You may need to add a light or need to change wires if existing wiring gets damaged.  Of course, check all the lights when the mast is down to be sure they will work when you are out on the water.  If you plan to add or update any lighting, do it when you have the mast down.  The previous owner of my sailboat left an extra pull string in the mast I can use when I need to pull more wire.  When I use it I plan to pull another string in case I need one again.

When running wires in the mast you may need to install them in a conduit.  This is essential if your halyards are run inside the mast.  It also protects the wires against chafing and helps silence noise from the banging around inside the mast which can be really annoying if your boat is rocking when you are trying to sleep.  You can also use foam pipe insulation or a pool noodle to cushion the wiring if your halyards run outside the mast.  If you use them where halyards run inside the mast make sure they don't crowd the halyards.  Cushioning is usually most important near each end of the mast where there mounting hardware intrudes where wires could rub and where the wires are usually pulled close to the edge of the mast.

For added safety and protection against moisture, use heat shrink tubing on all joints.  It can even be used over wire nuts to help seal them.   Of course, it is better to use soldered connections than wire nuts in a marine environment but there may be some places, like interior cabin lights, where you might want to use wire nuts to facilitate future lighting changes.  In many automotive and even RV applications you can get away with using wire nuts or just twisting wires together and wrapping the joint with electrical tape.  In a marine environment is is better to solder the joints and secure them with heat shrink tubing.  Twisted and taped joints or wire nut connections are more likely to absorb moisture and corrode.  You might also seal them with the kind of plastic dip used to coat tool handles.  You want to make sure NO moisture gets into the joints!

120 volt AC systems on a boat must always be protected by Equipment Leakage Circuit Interrupters (ELCI) and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI).  It doesn't matter whether the power is coming from a shore cable or from on onboard source, such as a generator or battery banks and inverter and/or solar panel.   Any failure in the electrical system can put both the people on the boat and any nearby swimmers at risk for their lives!  While people on the boat may experience a fatal or non-fatal shock, swimmers could receive a paralyzing dose of electricity and drown immediately due to involuntary loss of muscle control.   Even on the soundest boats, water sometimes puddles in the cockpit or bilge  and creates hazards we don't normally face on land or in RVs.   It would always be a good idea to enlist the services or at least seek the advice of a qualified marine electrician when installing or modifying 120 volt electrical components on your boat.

Shore power cords for boats differ from shore power cords for RVs.  They have water-proof, twist lock connectors.  The twist lock connectors are required to prevent accidental disconnects from movement of the boat while docked.  Even when docked boats can move quite a bit due to tides, currents, and wind.  You don't want a live power cord falling off into the water!  The water-proof requirement is pretty much self-explanatory for something plugged into a receptacle on a dock next to or floating on the water and exposed to rain.  If a power cord should come disconnected and fall into the water it may cause an electrocution hazard for anyone in contact with the water nearby.  Always use extra caution when connecting or disconnection shore power.  Any shore power sources SHOULD have their own ELCI and GFCI protection.  If they don't, lodge a complaint with the marina and avoid using them until they are brought into compliance before someone gets electrocuted!

Power  up!

Outdoor Activities -- Healthy, Fun, and Endless

One of the criticisms of today's lifestyle (at least in so-called "civilized" countries) is the lack of physical activity and exercise.  The very fact that we have fitness centers attests to the lack of normal physical activity.  A hundred  or so years ago, when Western society consisted mostly of farmers, people got plenty of physical exercise every day.  It was part of their normal routine and something they had to do just to survive.  As we entered the industrial age we began shifting more and more physical labor to machines.  While no one would complain about having to not work as hard or to having more free time, we are paying the price in terms of things like increasing obesity and a couch potato attitude and behavior resulting in an unhealthy, sedentary lifestyle for many people.

Some people turn to gym memberships for physical exercise.   If that works for you, more power to you.  Many people sign up for memberships and then don't use them.  Someone described a gym membership as a PE class you pay to skip!  I'm afraid I kind of share that attitude.  If you enjoy working out and can do it consistently it can indeed provide many health benefits.  Unfortunately, for a lot of people it isn't fun enough or interesting enough to keep them keep them motivated.  In just about any endeavor, having someone to share it makes it more appealing and easier to stick with.   Outdoor recreational activities usually provide enough fun and social interaction to generate long-lasting motivation.  Even riding OHVs requires a surprising amount of physical strength and activity.  In fact is is said that Supercross, a formalized professional form of dirt biking is THE most physically demanding sport in the world!  Think of having to wrangle a 300# machine at high speeds and make long, high jumps.  I can usually take my belt in a notch or two after a weekend of dirt biking!

Outdoor recreation provides a variety of activities that include physical exercise, mental stimulation, and even spiritual experiences.  RVing, camping, dirt biking, boating, bicycling, hiking, hunting, and fishing all give us a chance to escape the numbing daily grind, get outside, and get some good physical exercise to boot.  Given the plethora of available outdoor opportunities, there is something for everyone.  You might be surprised how much physical effort it takes to ride motorized toys like dirt bikes and jet skis and how many calories you can burn.  As I mentioned before, I usually find that I have to take my belt up a notch or two after just a couple of days of riding my dirt bike and that is a good feeling.

In my family we have found that RVing and camping are perfect companions for many outdoor recreational pursuits.   While RVing and camping by themselves are fun and rewarding, when coupled with additional fun things to do (like dirt biking, hiking, boating, fishing, etc) they provide a solid foundation of enjoyable and productive diversions from our normal, often rather sedentary, lives.  With so many white collar jobs where you spend all day at a desk or sitting in front of a computer and even many blue collar jobs being assisted by robots and other machines, it is all too easy to slip into a pattern of minimal physical activity.

Sometimes interest in some kind of sport (hiking, swimming, dirt biking) gives you a motivation to improve and maintain your fitness so you are better prepared and can more enjoy what you do.  If you can only get away once a month for your favorite outdoor playtime, you may need to add some daily exercise so you are strong enough and agile enough to participate in your chosen sport.  Having a reason for hitting the gym or run through your daily exercise routine makes it easier to find or make the time to do it and stick with it.

Often during the first day of riding my dirt bike after not being able to get out for a while I would feel like I either need to do a lot less or a lot more riding.  Given those two options I would certainly rather do a lot more riding!   Usually by the second day I get my second wind and thoroughly enjoy the strenuous workout I get riding my dirt bike on challenging trails.  It has been said and I've quoted it often in this blog, "You don't stop riding because you get old; you get old because you stop riding."  To me that is a pretty darn good incentive to get out and ride (or hike or sail) as often as I can.

Boating usually offers an escape from summer heat and is a good opportunity to get in some swimming.  Swimming is one of the best low-impact exercises you can do, exercising almost all of your muscles.  If you choose sailing instead of motor boating you will get more exercise hoisting sails.  And, of course, kayaking and canoeing or rowing a boat provides a LOT of physical exercise.

RVing, camping, boating, and related activities are a terrific way to escape our modern, sedentary lifestyle.  Outdoor recreation such as hiking, mountain biking, hunting, fishing, OHV riding, boating and, in winter, snowmobiling, skiing, and snowboarding, all provide outstanding physical exercise.  You would be surprised how much effort it takes even to operate motorized equipment such as OHVs, jet skis and snowmobiles.  Sailing probably takes a lot more labor than driving a power boat, but they both get you out into the sunshine and either kind of boating often encourages swimming, which is an excellent, non-impact physical exercise.   Just about any kind of camping, but especially beach camping, encourages things like playing volleyball or throwing a frisbee or  just taking a nice walk.  For some people even lugging an ice chest to and from the picnic table is the best workout they ever get.

Work  it out!

Sanitation for Boaters

The handling of human waste is not a polite or pleasant topic, but it is an important one, especially for campers and boaters.  Some  inconsiderate and lazy boaters dump all kinds of waste overboard.  This is NOT a good idea!  Most of our recreational waterways also serve as water supplies for residential and agricultural use and, eventually ALL water will return to the ocean.  We must do our part to keep it clean!  That crap you dump into the lake just might end up in YOUR drinking water!  Quite frankly, if it does it serves you right!!!

Some larger cabin cruiser and sailboats have sanitation facilities similar to those on RVs:  sinks and toilets, pressurized or battery powered water delivery, fresh water supply tanks and holding tanks for waste. Holding tanks on boats usually have to be pumped out at an appropriate dock facility.   Smaller "day cruisers" might have a porta-potty you can carry ashore for dumping instead of a toilet .  Human powered crafts (row boats, canoes, kayaks) and personal water craft don't have any sanitation facilities and you have to stop somewhere when you need to go so you probably need to plan appropriate stops in advance.  Be sure to use approved facilities or, in remote areas, follow proper procedures for building latrines to avoid contaminating waterways or creating nasty "traps" for other users of the area.  ALWAYS do your business at least 200 feet from any water.  That is about 70 adult paces.  For you sports fans its about 3/4 of a football field.   Sinks on small boats often drain right out through the hull into the water so be careful what you put down the drain.

The process for using, maintaining and dumping the holding tanks on larger vessels is very similar to that for RVs with one exception:  RVs normally use gravity to transfer the waste from the holding tanks to the dump station.  The holding tanks on boats usually have to be pumped.   A well equipped marina will have facilities to pump boat holding tanks.  If you take your boat out of the water after each outing and trailer it home,  you might be able to dump the holding tanks in any standard RV dump station.  Of course, permanent holding tanks and porta-pottys always need to be flushed and the chemicals refreshed when they are dumped.  If the boat is left outside or in unheated storage during freezing weather, holding tanks and porta-pottys will have to be protected against freezing.

Its very important to avoid contaminating the water in the lake, river, or marina.  Many of the lakes, rivers, and reservoirs available for recreational use are also sources of drinking water.   I've even seen some places where swimming or any human contact with the water is strictly prohibited to avoid contamination.  The galley and head sinks on some smaller boats may drain directly out through the hull.  If this is the case with your boat be careful not put anything nasty (chemically or biologically) down the drain!  

Handling the porta-pottys on smaller crafts is pretty much the same as for tent campers.  Carry the holding tank out of the boat and dump it into a toilet or approved dump station.   As always, be sure to rinse it thoroughly and add the proper amount of chemicals so it will be ready to use next time you go out.  Re-fill the clean water reservoir on the porta-potty each time you dump it too.

If you are into rafting, canoeing or kayaking, plan regular stops to take care of your bodily needs.  Sometimes you can pull into campgrounds where there are restrooms.  Lacking that you will need to find a relatively private spot where you can dig an appropriate latrine to take care of business.  A latrine always needs to be at least 200 feet (about 70 adult steps) away from any water source so be prepared for a little trek.  Plan ahead and don't wait too long before making your stops.  It may be appealing to keep paddling but you may regret not stopping sooner if you have an "accident" en route before you can take care of business!

Sail on!

How We Got Into Sailing -- Free Sailboat!

Yeah, you heard me right!  We got a sailboat for free!  It was nearly 50 years old -- a 1970 MacGregor Venture 24.  It came with 2 sets of sails, a working outboard motor with very low hours, and the original trailer.  It has a swing keel so it trailers easily.  I couldn't believe it when I came across the ad on our local craigslist.   It was exactly the kind of boat I'd dreamed of owning for most of my life and it seemed too good to be true.  But I figured it didn't cost anything to respond to the ad and, you know the saying, "nothing ventured, nothing gained".  I was pleasantly surprised when I got a fast response from the "seller".  He said the response to the ad had "exploded" (imagine that!) and since he couldn't meet with all the interested parties individually he scheduled a Saturday morning for us all  to come look it over.  The deal was that if there were still more than one interested party after inspecting the boat, whomever emailed him first on Sunday would get the boat.  Out of hundreds of inquiries he received about 18-20 people comprising 8 - 10 interested families or groups who actually showed up for the showing.  My wife and I made a point of getting there early and it paid off because we got to meet the owner and his wife and chat with them a little bit before the other folks showed up.

OK, so why was he giving away a good sailboat for free?  Definitely a good question and one we all very much wanted answered.  Turns out HE got the boat for free off craigslist a little over a year before and had just gotten another free sailboat -- this time a 36 footer!  The previous owner of the Venture 24 was getting older and had injured  his back so he couldn't sail anymore.  The boat needed a little work and he hadn't been able to find a buyer and his own kids were not interested in having it.  So he advertised it for free on craigslist and the gentleman I got it from was the only one who responded.  He re-did all the standing rigging and purchased a good set of used sails to augment the well-used set that came with the boat.  Then, when he got a 36' sailboat for free, he and his wife decided to "pay it forward" by giving away the 24' Venture.   He got his second free sailboat from an acquaintance at work who was tired of paying registration, insurance and moorage fees on a boat he never used.  Since the 36 footer is better suited to the couple's goal of eventually being able to live and travel on a sailboat, they jumped at the chance to upgrade.  Having spent a few weekends on our 24 footer I can appreciate his zeal in getting a 36' boat to live on!  Not sure it would be as easy to sail though.  For weekends our 24 footer is comfortable and fun; living aboard full time would be a real challenge.  Our "seller" did warn us he had been told there was problem raising the swing keel but he had never tried it.

After looking over the boat and determining it was structurally solid (but could use some TLC), we decided we wanted to be first in that email line on Sunday morning.  With that in mind I began sending emails about 11:30 pm (not knowing  how long it would take to reach the owner) and kept re-sending about every 5 minutes until well after midnight.   You can imagine how thrilled we were to get a call Sunday morning telling us we had been selected as the recipients of the Venture 24!

As I mentioned above, it  definitely needed some TLC -- the once beautiful teak trim was all weathered an ugly concrete gray and the gelcoat on the topside was crazed from nearly 50 years in the elements.  With a little research on the Internet I discovered the faded teak could be restored to very near its original color by cleaning it with oxalic acid, then rubbing it down with teak oil and re-varnishing it.  I was amazed at  how quickly and beautifully it cleaned up!   The topside gelcoat was somewhat crazed from sunlight and the bottom needed repainting.  We decided to paint the entire boat inside and out, which was kind of a fun winter project, letting us enjoy and get familiar with our boat even though it was too cold outside for sailing.  We chose a semi-gloss, exterior acrylic latex paint for the interior and special oil-based marine Topside and Bottom paint for the exterior.   As anyone who has ever done any painting knows, preparation is not only the key to success, but at least 80% of the effort.   Cleaning, sanding, wiping down, and masking each section took much longer than the actual painting, but when we were done we were very pleased.  Not only did it look brand new, it had colors we liked.  The original faded non-skid deck paint had been a bland beige.  We painted it sky blue.  We were very pleased with the results and the nice compliments we got from other boaters.  The seller 's ad disclosed that he had been told there was a problem with raising the swing keel, but we had no problem at all when we trailered the boat to bring it home.  We just cranked it up as we piloted the boat onto the trailer and it worked perfectly.

Although the fiberglass hull and all  the other major components (mast, boom, rudder, keel, and rigging) were all solid, the wiring was in sad shape.  None of the lights worked, inside or out.  I discovered someone had run the lighting using ordinary zip cord.  Marine wiring is quite specialized -- in order to withstand the rigors of a constantly moist and often salt-air environment.  Marine wiring consists of many more smaller, tinned copper strands than ordinary automotive wiring of the same gauge.  Of course that makes it harder to find and more expensive, but seeing what happened to the zip wire quickly convinced me to use only marine rated wire when I re-wired the boat.  The little 12-volt power panel was such a convoluted tangle of wires that I completely stripped it down and started over.  None of the existing navigation lights were functional so I replaced them with modern LED versions that will use very little power and the bulbs will last for thousands of hours.  I replaced all the interior lights with LED fixtures too, then added a 30 Watt solar panel and controller to charge the battery.

The trailer had been sitting for years and both the bunk boards the boat rests on had to be replaced.  I upgraded from the original 2x4s to 2x6s.  The tires looked like new -- even still had the little "mold mark" pins of rubber sticking out.  But a quick check of the dates showed they had timed out years ago so we bought new tires before towing the boat about 120 miles home.  I also rebuilt the hubs with new wheel bearings just for added safety and replaced all the lights and wiring.

There is a saying that "A boat is a hole in the water into which you throw money!" and I can see how easily that could  happen.  I soon learned that in addition to special wiring and special paints that are both more expensive than their more common household equivalents, there are hundreds and hundreds of very appealing options for boaters, ranging from basic deck shoes and clothing to exotic electronics for communication, navigation, depth finding, even fish finding and entertainment.  I guess I can be glad I have a sailboat.  At least I won't be paying high prices for marine fuel or high cost of maintenance and repairs on complicated engines and drive trains.  The simple 2-stroke outboard motor on our sailboat should be fairly easy to work on when it needs service or repair, much like the 2-stroke dirt bikes I've worked on for decades.

I learned several interesting facts about our little Venture 24.   They have a reputation for being almost unsinkable--but so was the Titanic!  It is said you can heel one over until the top of the mast is in the water and it will right itself, due to the 500 lb swing keel hanging out the bottom.   I was surprised to learn it will sleep 5 people!  It doesn't have built in sanitation like a larger vessel might have but it does have a nice little stainless steel kitchen sink and a porta-potty.  The galley has a shelf designed to hold a camp stove and the dinette makes down into one of  the beds.  The main sleeping area is the V-berth in the bow.  It is as wide as a queen side bed at the head and about 9" wide at the foot.  It is fairly comfortable if you don't mind playing footsie with your partner.  The walnut grained Formica table was very badly faded and the edging was missing when we got it.  I was getting quite discouraged when I searched for remedies online only to learn the Formica would probably have to be replaced or painted.  Some folks suggested furniture polish like Lemon Pledge and I was excited when it perked it right up, but it quickly faded again as it dried  Then my wife suggested I try the SC-1 detail spray I use religiously on our dirt bikes.  I was a bit skeptical, but the SC-1 restored it to a near new color that lasts and lasts.  Its been at least 4 years and it is still looking good.  I found some walnut grain iron on tape to replace the missing edging.  The little 24' boat makes a really nice base for extended weekend outings, proving both fun recreational activities and comfortable weatherproof overnight accommodations.

As much as we love dirt biking, I have to admit there are some summer days that are just too hot and too dry to enjoy safely riding the trails.   Here where we now live in Oregon, many forested riding areas get closed due to high fire danger during the late summer.  Being able to head out on the water and be able to dive right off the boat to cool off is a fun and welcome alternative on hot days.  One of the the things a really like about skippering a sailboat instead of a power boat is the choice of adventure.  If you like just relaxing, set a course downwind.  You can "ghost" along and since the wind is pushing you, you hardly feel any breeze at all as it carries you along at almost the same speed as the wind.  But if you want more excitement, turn around and sail back into the wind.  Now a sailboat can't really sail directly into the wind.  In fact, if the bow is pointed directly into the wind the boat is said to be "in irons" and it won't go anywhere, unless you count being pushed backwards!  Sailing into the wind means tacking back and forth across the wind at an angle of no less than 45 degrees to the wind.  When you do this the wind fills the sail and turns it into an airfoil (like an airplane wing) and the "lift " pushes the boat along.  When doing this the boat will often heel over 15° or so and you can really feel the speed and the wind  and often spray on your face.  It isn't unusual to heel over so far water is coming over the rail into the boat!  However, I was told years ago, as long as the water coming over the rail is white and not green, you're OK.   Wind can generate a surprising amount of power and speed.  Remember, wind was essentially the only way to move large vessels on the water for thousands of years.  Wind powered the discovery of American and the first circumnavigation of the globe.  I've even seen sailboats tow water skiers!  When I lived in Marina Del Rey near Los Angeles, California some years ago, there was a guy with a little 10-12' sailing catamaran who would take it out and tow water skiers with it when most of the power boats were seeking shelter during small craft warnings.

Recently saw a Youtube touting 13 ways sailing is better than power boating.  Of course the presenter is biased but I did agree with most of his points.   If you prefer motor boating, go for it!  I particularly like the variety of experiences sailing offers -- it can be very exciting to tack into the wind, sometimes heeling over so far water comes in over the rail, or you can "ghost" downwind and it will be calm and relaxing even n windy days.  Sailing avoids the noise and exhaust fumes of motors and you can often sail long distances without burning any fuel.

My interest in sailing began long before we found a free sailboat.   I had joined a sailing club associated with a company I worked for in southern California many years ago and learned the basics sailing a 14' cat boat around Marina Del Rey.  For a while I owned a little 8' sabot I sailed on Harbor Cove in New Jersey and when I went to scout camp as an assistant scoutmaster with one of my son's Boy Scout troops, I spent most of the week getting their sailboats (6-8 of them) back in the water and giving a few basic sailing lessons.  One of their boats was a 19' lightning class that I found was really fun to sail.  Until I got the Venture 24 it was the largest boat I'd ever sailed.  I had day dreamed about one day owning a daysailer and when the Venture 24 ad popped up and I saw the photo it was EXACTLY what I'd always wanted.

By the way, there are other ways to find free boats.  In fact there is an entire web site devoted to Free Boats.  You can also find cheap boats on ebay where at least one charity offers boats for sale that have been donated to them, allowing them to auction them off at ridiculously low prices.  However, as always, caveat emptor -- buyer beware!  Many free boats will need a lot of work, may have significant structural problems, or may have some hidden legal encumbrances such as past-due moorage, registration,  or storage fees.   You will also be responsible for transporting the boat from its current location to where ever you need to take it.   If the boat comes with a trailer you will have to make sure it is servicable before moving the boat.   If it doen't have its own trailer you will have to pay to have it loaded onto a trailer and taken where you want it.  Salvaged boats may have spent some time underwater and may have hidden damage.  Getting a professional marine survey is a good way to find out if a boat is worth buying, but the come at some cost ($18-$25 per foot).  Surveys will establish the value of the boat and expose items in need of repair or replacement.  Be sure you are prepared to handle what ever work is needed -- either by doing it yourself or having the budget to pay a professional to do it for you.  After all, there is usually a good reason if a boat is free!  And consider where it is located and how you will get it home -- or at least to its new home.  Sometimes you can hire a crew to pilot your boat from where it is to another marina of your choice, like buying a boat in Bermuda and having it taken to Florida,  but that is not always an option.  Transporting a large vessel over land can be very expensive so consider that if it doesn't come with a trailer or you don't have a vehicle that will pull it.  I saw a guy who bought a wonderful sailboat for just $200 and had to pay around $3000 to get it home!  A trailerable boat will mitigate that risk to some extent, but be sure the trailer is up to snuff.  Many times it has been sitting a long time and the tires will need to be replaced and the wheel bearings serviced if not replaced before it can be used to haul the boat.  Also check the hitch, safety chains, lights, wiring, and brakes.  If the trailer has wooden bunk boards, make sure they aren't damaged or weakened by rot.  Make sure you can fasten the boat securely to the trailer.  I use a pair of 2 1/2"ratchet straps around the hull and fastened to the trailer rails in addition to the eyebolt on the bow that is used to winch the boat onto and secure it on the trailer.

Sail away!

OHV Tips for Riding Hills

Most of the off road trails you will ride on or in your OHV will include hills you will have to negotiate.   Climbing, descending, or crossing hills (slopes)  requires specific skills that are different from what you need for traveling on level ground.  But it can also be one of the most fun parts of trail riding.  Of course you should master handling your OHV on level ground before trying any hills!

Climbing hills.  For climbing hills with any type of OHV, the first thing you need to do is determine if the hill you are facing is within the capabilities of you and your machine.  If not, find a way around or turn around and go back.  Next, most people will try to get a little run at the hill, but be sure not to go so fast that you are unsafe or begin to lose control.  Sooner or later you are likely to encounter a hill you cannot get over the top of.  When that happens, you need to know how to safely get back down.   How you do that will depend on what kind of OHV you are operating.  For a dirt bike, shut off the engine, put the transmission in 1st gear.  Then get off the bike on the up hill side and gently turn the front wheel, release the clutch to let the bike roll until it is approximately cross ways from your original hill climbing direction.  Then turn the wheel downhill and align the bike headed downhill, carefully remount the bike, and ride back down the  hill.  You may want to release the clutch and let the engine start and you can use engine braking to help control the speed of your descent and the gyrocsopic affects of the engine to aid balance.  If you are riding an ATV you will want to set the parking brake, dismount, and drag or push the front of of the ATV around until it is angled downhill.  Always stay on the uphill side of the machine if you can.  Then remount, release the brake, and ride down the hill.  Make sure you don't put yourself where the machine might tip over on you!  As with a dirt bike, let the engine start and use engine braking to help control your downhill speed.  Side-by-sides are incredibly difficult to turn around when climbing a hill so it is usually best to simply back down slowly way before you get into an impossible situation, carefully watching behind you (over your shoulder or via mirrors).  In some cases you might want to have someone get out and guide you via hand signals or verbal commands (if you can hear them over the engine noise).  If the hill isn't TOO steep you might be able to turn around and drive down but there is a significant risk of roll over whenever a UTV is sideways on a hill.

Descending hills.  It seems counterintuitive but going down hills can be more difficult than going up them.  After all, you have gravity working for you going down hill, right?  A common problem for all OHVs when descending hills is going too fast as gravity pulls you and your ride down the slope.  The first defense is to downshift to increase engine braking to reduce speed.  Then use your brakes judiciously.  Overuse of the front brake on dirt bikes or ATVs may cause the machine to flip over the  handlebars so use the front brake sparingly if at all.  Once you reach the bottom of the hill and begin to level out you can use both brakes to continue to slow down or stop as desired.  It is not uncommon to continue sliding downhill even after the brakes have locked up the wheel(s).  You never want to lock up the front wheel (s) because then you lose the ability to steer the vehicle.  You can usually use engine braking to help slow descents.  Shifting into lower gears increase the amount of braking to help maintain slower speeds.

Crossing Hills.  Crossing hills on a dirt bike is fairly straightforward, as long as you keep the bike balanced and keep enough forward momentum.  You don't want to stop where you can't put your foot down to stabilize your bike!  If you encounter a problem crossing a hill that requires you to slow or stop, lean uphill and put that foot down for stabilization.  Crossing hills with ATVs and side-by-sides is generally not a good idea.  You might be able to do it if the slope isn't too steep, but all too often, by the time you can make that determination, it is too late and your machine is already starting to roll over.  Sometimes you can help keep an ATV stable crossing a slope by leaning uphill to help counter the pull of gravity that is trying to make it roll over.  There really is no good way to cross a steep slope in a UTV.   Gravity is going to want to roll it over unless the slope is gentle enough to keep the center of gravity low.  Since you can't shift your weight in a side-by-side to assist crossing  hills, it is better not to try it at all if there is any doubt you can make it without rolling over.

Have a hill of a time  -- and stay safe!

Useful Electronic Devices When Camping

Why would anyone want to use electronic devices when camping?  Aren't camping and other outdoor activities a way to escape our dependence on electronic devices?  Absolutely!  Yet there may be times, if we are carefully selective, when electronic devices may actually enhance our fun.  Teenagers today are highly connected to their electronic devices and would likely consider total disconnection to be cruel and unusual punishment.  While learning to live without them has its character-building advantages, being able to accommodate their occasional wants and needs may make a trip more enjoyable for everyone.

Our modern world is highly dependent on electronic devices.  We rely on our computers, cell phones, GPSs and (at least for teens and wannabe teens) hand-held video games.  While we often go camping to escape some of the electronic tethers that tend to control our lives, there are also times we will want or even need to use them.  All of these are marvelous inventions that provide wonderful capabilities, but they also require support, most importantly power and often cell tower or Internet access.  Both electrical power and cell tower or Internet access are often scarce in a camping environment.  If you are car camping or in an RV you should have ready access to 12-volt battery power.  Many RVs also have 120-volt generators. Inverters can convert 12 volt DC power from the battery in your car or RV to 120 volt power to run electronic gadgets.  If you take your portable devices with you out on the trails, you may need to bring along some kind of auxiliary battery or charger to recharge them.  Solar chargers are especially well-suited for camping and other off road endeavors.

One of the most useful devices for campers is a GPS system or a cell phone with GPS.  Being able to get turn-by-turn directions to where you’re going saves a lot of unintended detours and can avoid a lot of bad roads, traffic, and construction.  Some GPS systems are even appropriate for off-road use, tracking your exact route and allowing you to reverse the route to get back to camp should you get disoriented or encounter poor visibility that would prevent you from using landmarks to find your way back.   The digital camera on most modern cell phones can be an invaluable aid if you have to make repairs in the field.  Take a picture of things BEFORE you take them apart so you have a good reference for how they go back together.

CB radios and FMRS/GMRS walkie talkies can provide excellent short-range communications between vehicles in a convoy or between riders or hikers out on a trail.   FMRS radios do not require a license.  GMRS radios have some higher output channels that give you greater range but do require an FCC license.  Some of the FMRS/GMRS channels overlap CB channels so you can use your CB base station in camp to monitor communications among members of your group out on the trail. That might be particularly important if someone needs assistance, such as mechanical problems or a medical emergency.  HAM radios can give you greater range, especially if you can make use of  "repeaters" operated by Ham Radio Clubs or other organizations in the area.  HAM signals sometimes take advantage of "skip" to reach far distant stations.  That means you might be able to reach someone on the other side of the country but not someone behind the next hill!

We have successfully used inexpensive walkie-talkies to communicate between riders on dirt bike rides.  We just pack the radios in a pocket of the Cambelbak hydration packs we're already wearing.  Headsets with microphones and either voice activated or push-to-talk switches let use use them without taking them out or even removing our helmets.  There are also really nice helmet mounted communication systems that work very well but they tend to be a bit more expensive than common walkie-talkies, like about 10 times the cost!

 

For many years portable radios have provided information and entertainment in campgrounds and on the trail.  A popular option is a pocket size transistor radio.  Some of them even have FM steror sound and the often fit in your pocket!  Portable cassette and CD players provide even more options.  Just make sure you bring extra batteries or have a way to recharge your equipment.  Solar chargers are especially appealing to tent campers but even RVers can put them to good use.   They can be used to obtain important weather reports that might affect your outing as well as providing entertainment and background music for some activities.  NOAA weather radios are particularly good for this.

Laptops, tablets, and smart phones give us highly portable computer power we can use almost anywhere we go.  If you happen to be within range of a cell tower, you may even be able to access the Internet from your phone or tablet.  That can be helpful if you need help with an emergency repair or just to look up some bit of information relevant to your situation.  And, if you really need an electronic "fix" for your gaming or movie addiction, you might be able to accommodate even that.  We have taken advantage of the hot spot on our cell phones to power Internet to bring Roku to the TV in our RV, giving us almost ulimited movies and TV shows to escape bad weather in camp.

Portable electronic devices depend on reliable battery power.  Hand-held CBs and walkie talkies may have rechargeable or replaceable batteries.  You can usually remove rechargeable battery packs and replace them with ordinary batteries in a  pinch.  Always carry a good supply of replacement batteries for all your hand-held devices.  Cell phones and GPSs usually have only rechargeable batteries so you will need a way to recharge them in camp.  Many such devices these days use a USB charge cable that can be connected to a computer or 12-volt or 120-volt charger.  12-volt chargers plug into the cigarette lighter or 12-volt power receptacle on your vehicle or battery power pack.  You can purchase pocket-sized auxiliary battery packs with USB connectors to recharge most GPSs, cell phones, etc if you need or want to carry extra power with you out on the trail.  In camp you can use the 12-volt charger plugged into your vehicle.  We have noticed that our cell phones charge faster using the 120-volt wall charger than with the 12-volt car charger so we usually use a small inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter to power the wall charger to charge our portable devices.   One advantage to the car chargers are that they are fairly inexpensive.  You can even get them at Dollar Tree, along with standard sync cables for Android phones (Lighting cables for iPhones are harder to find and more expensive).  Be aware that although the car chargers may look the same they may not always act the same and deliver the same performance as the OEM chargers from your phone manufacturer.  In some cases, using an unapproved charger may even void your warranty!  However, in my experience, the only problems I have encountered have more to do with reliability and longevity and a longer charging time.  I have also discovered that all 12-volt chargers usually take longer to charge my phone than a wall charger.  So we usually use a small inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter in the car and then run the wall charger off that instead of using a 12-volt charger. 

Using high-quality replaceable batteries will usually give you the best performance and they will usually last longer than cheaper batteries.  Alkaline batteries are usually better than standard batteries and newer lithium ion batteries can deliver even better performance, but in each case you pay for what you get.  Because my backup batteries often sit around in my camp kit or motorhome for some time before getting used I tend to avoid stocking up on high priced batteries that may be dead by the time I need them.  Instead, I stock up on inexpensive batteries at Dollar Tree or get them on coupon sales at Harbor Freight so I always have plenty on hand for each trip.

Portable power packs (rechargeable batteries) can be used to power or recharge cell phones and other small hand-held devices on the go.  A attractive alternative that provides free power (once you pay for the charger!) is a solar battery charger.  These use solar panels to charge your batteries using only sunlight.  The only problems I’ve found with them are that 1) they tend to be a little pricey and 2) the are usually somewhat awkward to carry conveniently when hiking or trail riding.  However, both the cost and the effort to bring them along may be well worth it to be able to recharge your devices in remote areas.  Portable solar chargers that are small enough to be carried with you are becoming fairly affordable and can mean the difference between using your cell phone or simply cursing it!  For many years I used a small solar charger that plugged into the cigarette lighter and sat on the dashboard to add a little extra power to my vehicle batteries in camp.  It wouldn't recharge a dead battery but it acted liked a trickle charger to help keep batteries charged during daylight hours.  It was inexpensive (under $30) and very easy to use.

Because our excursions away from camp are usually measured in hours, not days, I don’t usually carry spare batteries with me out on the trail.  I just check batteries in radios and flashlights before each outing and replace any that are getting low before we take off.  If you are going to be back-packing or engaging in some other activity where you will be away from your base camp for more than a few hours you may want to carry spare batteries for your flashlights, lanterns, and your electronic devices.  Solar LED lanterns are becoming a viable option for remote camping.  Some even have USB  ports to charge your cell phones or other small electronic devices.  They are kind of the best of both worlds:  efficient portable light that can be recharged for free anywhere you have sunlight.  I wouldn’t recommend them for spelunking or cave diving!   Just remember to take them out of your tent and put them out in the sun every day to recharge.  LEDs low power demand means you get the most out of each charge.  I've seen an LED lantern still bright for months after being left on in the barn all night.  Do that with an ordinary incandescent type light and the battery would have been long dead way before morning!

While RV camping with 12 volt battery banks and 120 volt generators lends itself to the use of just about all the electronic (and electric) gadgets you have at home, tent campers may be able to avail themselves of many electronic opportunities.  With lots of battery powered devices and with modern portable generators now being smaller, quieter, and more affordable, even tent campers can enjoy a wide range of modern conveniences in camp.

Solar chargers, hand cranked chargers, and battery packs are available to recharge cell phones and other small USB devices out on the trail.  You will see USB charging ports built in to some solar lanterns and even propane powered stoves!

One more important aspect for using electronic devices when camping:  be thoughtful and courteous to your fellow campers.  Just because you like the sound turned up until you can feel the bass doing CPR on your chest doesn't mean the people around you will appreciate it!  Radios, CD players, and TVs are generally the worst offenders but sometimes people are lax about using noisy power tools around camp too, so think about where you are and what time it is and who or what other activities your use of electronic or electric devices is going to impact. We once had a bunch of teenagers roll into camp about 3:00 am with a stereo blasting at what had to be at least 1000 watts!  Fortunately, to their credit, a polite word with the resolved the problem.

Stay connected!