12-Volt RV Accessories

There are lots of 12-volt accessories for your RV.    Most come with a plug to fit in a standard 12-volt receptacle which is like a cigarette lighter socket.  You will probably want to add some sockets at convenient locations where you want to use your accessories.  When choosing a location, your primary criteria will be the convenience of using accessories, but there are installation requirements you need to consider too.  First, will there be a source of power available or can you safely run wiring from a nearby source?  Next, is there room to mount the socket?  You will need a flat surface with enough room in a cabinet behind it to accommodate the depth of the socket and wiring connections.  It should be located where it won't be in the way or damaged by contents in the cabinet.  In many cases the bottom shelf on RV cabinets is hollow. Y ou can usually pry up the paneling inside the cabinet and gain access to the space.  Take it easy and work your way along the whole edge so you don't make unwanted holes in edge of the panel.  Often there will already be 12-volt wiring inside for under-cabinet lights you can tap into.  There may also be room to mount the socket so it is inside the hollow space and doesn't intrude into usable cabinet space.   When I haven't been able to use the hollow bottom shelf, I usually mount the socket high in the cabinet and as far into a corner as possible to get it out of the way as much as I can.   12-volt sockets are  handy for using a "car charger" to recharge cell phones, I-pads, etc.

If you need a 12-volt socket outside, use a marine-grade waterproof socket.  You may have to go to a marina or boat supply store to find one.  I use such an external socket on my motorcycle trailer to plug in my strobe lights.  Before I installed the socket, I had to run the wiring through an open window to an inside socket, which was always a bit of a nuisance and not good at all in inclement weather.  Note:  these sockets are only water proof when the attached cap is closed so use in rain is not recommended.  The covers only keep the weather out when nothing is plugged in.   For that reason I have installed permanently mounted and wired strobe lights on the roof of my motorcycle trailer.

Many RVs come with general purpose area lighting under the cabinets.  You may want to add some high intensity reading lights.  You will probably need to cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to accommodate the new light fixtures.  Then wire the new lights to the wires that feed the existing area light.   Most reading lights will have a built-in switch.   If yours doesn't, you'll need to put a switch in the hot feed between the source and the light.  The best place to put it would be beside the new fixture, but you may want to mount it through the face or side of the cabinet instead if that would make it easier to use.  Just make sure the wires and connections are protected so they won't be jarred loose or shorted out by contents in the cabinet.  Mounting the switch adjacent to the fixture should allow all the wiring etc to be safely concealed inside the hollow shelf.

With a little research you can probably find 12-volt versions of most common household electrical appliances including radios, TVs, VCRs, corn poppers, hair dryers, mixers and blenders, just to name a few. 12-volt appliances can be used in RVs and you can run them off your cigarette lighter in your vehicle when tent camping.   If you plan to use 12-volt appliances, make sure you have sufficient battery capacity to handle the load and monitor your appliance usage and battery state.  It will be very disappointing if you turn on the blender and all it does is hum softly and perhaps even more disappointing if you wake up cold in the middle of the night because you ran the batteries down watching TV all afternoon and the furnace has stopped working and is only blowing cold air! And the ultimate nasty surprise:  you drained your batteries and can't get your vehicle started to go home!  Motorhomes usually have separate isolated battery banks for the engine and the coach, reducing your chances of running down your starting battery.   But if you're using the cigarette lighter in your car or tow vehicle to power 12 volt appliances while tent camping, you will need to closely monitor the level of battery charge to avoid getting stranded.

If you can't find a 12-volt version of a 120-volt appliance you want to use you might be able to use an inverter to supply 120-volt power using  your battery bank.   Inverters convert 12-volt DC from batteries into 120-volt AC power.  You can get small ones (100-400 watts) that  plug into 12-volt receptacles to power a single small device (like a laptop) or hard wired ones (up to 3000 watts) that can run several outlets.  About the only down side to inverters are there is some loss of energy in the conversion process and keep in mind that 120 volt appliances will use 10 times the energy of 12 volt appliances of the same amp rating.  Inverters are sometimes a good way to run your TV and entertainment system without running the generator -- if you have a enough battery capacity.

Most RVs come with one or more auxiliary power sockets (12-volt receptacles like cigarette lighter sockets). Why would you need more auxiliary power sockets?  Think about what you will be using them for.  Do you need a portable fan near your bed?   Do you need a convenient place to plug in your cell phone charger?  How about chargers for re-chargeable lanterns and entertainment devices?  Portable air pumps?  You can buy 12-volt TVs, DVD and VCR players for use in your RV and you'll need a place to plug them in.  You may want to install a weatherproof socket on the outside of your RV where you can plug in air compressors to pump up OHV tires, 12-volt work lights, even 12-volt fans to cool the "patio" under your awning.   If you add an exterior socket, be sure to use a waterproof, marine-grade fixture.

Wiring your accessories.  If you don't need accessories to be portable or don't need the ability to use multiple accessories in the same place you can hard wire them.   Lights are almost always hardwired. Permanently mounted fans should be hard wired too.  If you need a socket to plug in your cell phone charger or plug in a portable fan, install a cigarette lighter socket.  Regardless of what your are wiring, pay close attention to the polarity -- connect hot leads of the accessory or socket to the 12-volt power supply and the ground leads to a vehicle ground.  RV 12-volt wiring usually uses red wires for hot and black for ground, but test your wiring to be sure.  Owners (and even mechanics) often use whatever they have on hand when adding accessories so wiring could be any color.  Connect the ground clamp of a test light to a known ground and touch the probe to the wire to be tested, making sure to contact the metal conductor and not just the insulation.  The test light will come on when you touch a hot lead but will not light when you touch a ground wire or other non-powered wire. Connecting accessories backwards can damage some electronic components or create a potential shock or fire hazard. 12-volt DC electricity isn't as dangerous as 120-volt AC power.  You probably won't even get an unpleasant tingle but it may create a situation where arcing can occur and cause a fire if you cross-wire things.  For most 12-volt connections you can use wire nuts -- plastic cones that twist onto the ends of the two wires to be joined.  Strip about 1/2" of insulation from both wires, twist the wires together, then twist on the wire nut.  Twist the wires and the wire nut in a clockwise direction for installation.  Turn the wire nut until it is snug, but don't over-tighten or you'll risk twisting off the wires.   For even more permanent and secure connections you can solder the wires together and wrap the connection with electrical tape or use heat-shrink insulation.

Whenever you add accessories you want the installation to look good.   If you're adding a cigarette lighter socket, make sure you drill the right size hole so it fits snugly.  Automotive style receptacles are designed to install through a thin metal or plastic dash panel.  Installing them through thicker wall panels in RVs may require some modification.  Receptacles designed especially for RVs come mounted in a chrome or other metal finished plate about the size of a residential light switch plate that simplifies installation and gives a nice, professional appearance.   Since they are already mounted, it gives you more latitude in drilling the hole and they can be installed on thick walls.  Look for 12-volt wall outlets at your favorite RV supply store.  When adding surface mount lights on walls or ceilings make the opening in the surface beneath the fixture where you run the wires large enough to push the wire nuts back inside so the fixture will mount tightly if there isn't room in the base of the fixture.   For best appearance, align ceiling fixtures to be parallel to adjacent walls.  You can usually do this by eye-balling them, but to be certain, you might want to measure and mark alignment. When mounting items on the wall, you may be able to use a level -- assuming your RV itself is level at the time.  Or measure from adjacent walls, ceiling, windows, or cabinets.   If you have to run exposed wiring, you may be able to disguise it with plastic wire guides or tracks.  These are available in various colors at home centers and usually have a semi-circular cross-section that is open all along one edge so you can push the wires inside.  There is an adhesive strip attached to the flat back surface. Be sure to clean the area where it will be attached so the adhesive strip will stick.  Rubbing alcohol is usually a good way to quickly clean the area.  You run your wires first, cut the guide to fit the length of the exposed wires, remove the covering from the adhesive strip, carefully slide the guide over the wires, keeping the adhesive away from the surface until you are ready to press it into place. Slip the wires into the guide, then press it tightly against the surface so the adhesive strip will hold it in place.  Usually keeping pressure on for about 30 seconds is enough to make it stick.  Use rubber grommets to protect wires wherever they pass through metal surfaces, rough wood openings, or where you want to make a professional looking penetration that will normally be visible.

Warning indicators.   Single 12-volt LEDs are easy to install as indicators to remind you when things are turned on.  One innovative RV owner wired one to the on/off switch of the water heater and installed it right next to the switch so he could tell when the hot water heater was turned on.  Most RV water heaters have a red light that lets you know when the water heater isn't working but should be (that is, it is turned on).  Most hydraulic or electric leveling jacks have indicators to let you know when they are in the extended position.  Another common place to add an indicator is on the electric step to let you know when it is extended and remind you to retract it before driving off (most motorhomes have an interlock to prevent this, but it is a nice addition to travel trailers).  The water pump usually has a lighted indicator, but if it doesn't this is another good place to add one.   you have an auxiliary electric heating element on your water heater you might add a 120-volt LED to let you know when it is powered.   If you can't remember if your TV antenna is up or down, try adding an indicator light to that too.   I have several outside lights on my RV and trailer and have added LED indicators inside so I can tell if the lights are on or off, even in the daylight.  You can also use illuminated switches that glow when in the "on" position.  Since battery power is a limited and quite precious resource when camping, being able to detect and eliminate unnecessary light usage can significantly reduce battery drain.

Plug it in!

General Camp Site Lighting

It can get REALLY dark in camp.  Most of us live in urban or suburban environments with lots of street lights and light pollution from office buildings, shopping malls, parking lots, traffic, and neighbor's homes and have no idea how dark it can be on a moonless night in a remote area.   Even if you aren't within the glow of streetlights etc, the reflection off clouds or even air pollution creates a glow from remote cities etc. that usually illuminates the darkness to some extent in urban and suburban areas.  It can be surprising -- even frightening for some people -- how dark it gets when you get away from the city!  Moonless nights in the desert or forest are extremely dark.   Deep woods often filter enough moonlight to make it almost like there is no moon at ground level in some forests, even when there is a full moon.   If you are an RVer, you will usually have some built-in indoor lighting (as long as your batteries hold up).  Most RVs have one or more outside "porch" lights that illuminate the area next to the RV entrance.  For more distant activities or for tent camping you'll need portable light sources.  Some older travel trailers and truck campers had propane powered lights but you aren't likely to see them very often these days.  Even units that did have them have often been converted entirely to 12-volt lighting long ago.  One feature of propane lights was that they gave off quite a bit of heat, helping to warm a camper on chilly evenings, but during warmer times that was a distinct disadvantage.

Flashlights are one of the least expensive and most convenient and versatile sources of portable illumination.  You can often even find them at "dollar" stores.  These plastic bargains are usually not very durable but they can provide many hours of illumination at a very low cost.  They are also an attractive option if you have people (like children) who tend to break or lose track of things easily. The loss or destruction of a $1.00 flashlight is no big deal.  Dollar stores often  have fairly nice little aluminum pocket LED flashlights that are fairly durable, efficient, and quite attractive.  There are also high-end flashlights made of aircraft grade aluminum that are far more durable and often even waterproof, but they can be quite expensive -- upwards of $25-$50.  Cheap flashlights are usually not adjustable; better units can often be adjusted so the beam casts a spot light or flood light pattern. Flashlights are ideal for individual use in moving around in the dark and for many camp tasks. Traditional flashlights use a small incandescent bulb but today you can also buy flashlights with multiple LEDs that use far less power and both batteries and the LEDs last a lot longer than when using ordinary bulbs.  My wife and I both carry small, LED flashlights powered by AA or AAA batteries in our fanny packs and/or tool kits when we go dirt biking.  They will provide much needed illumination for any after-dark repairs on the trail and for signaling if needed.  We used to use regular "mini-mag" lights.  They are sturdy and effective but the little LED lights don't weigh as much and don't take up as much room and the batteries in the LED lights will last a lot longer and LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs.   In addition to a standard on-off switch, most flashlights have a push-button that can be used to turn the light on momentarily to aid in signaling.  You should at least know the Morse Code signal for S.O.S. -- three dots, three dashes, three dots.  When signalling with a light that means three quick flashes, three slow flashes, and three quick flashes.  Urban myths equate S.O.S. to Save Our Souls or Save Our Ship, but it reality it was simply the ease of signally S.O.S. in Morse code that led to the use of S.O.S. for an emergency signal.  The cute, if historically inaccurate, phrases now associated with it do serve as useful memory aids.

Multi-purpose lights.  As with just about any camping gadget, multi-purpose lights are attractive since they can serve many uses without the weight and space requirements of separate items.  One I've found particularly convenient came from Harbor Freight. It is an LED light with a focused LED spot light on one end and a bank of LEDs in a flood light configuration on one flat side. It cost under $3.00 with a coupon. It measures about 2"x3"x3/4", is light weight, and takes up little space in pocket, purse or pack, yet provides a lot of light. It has a built in plastic hook so you can hang it in your tent on or a convenient branch. It also has a magnet if you need to attach it to your vehicle -- or your camp stove.  Some larger camp lanterns also feature both spot and flood light options. Keep your eye out for potentially useful items everywhere you go.  I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns shaped like old-fashioned kerosene lanterns at a discount store for $10 each and small solar camping lanterns for just $2.00 each.  The kerosene style lanterns have 17 LEDs, a dimmer for controlling brightness, and run on 3 "D" cell batteries.  I once left one on in my barn overnight and it was still bright the next day when I discovered it and turned it off and was still functional for months afterwards.  Leave an ordinary incandescent battery light on overnight and you'll have dead batteries by morning.   I've even seen a single incandescent bulb left on in an RV drain the big 12-volt deep cycle house battery in an afternoon!

Wide area lighting may be needed for some activities, such as preparing, serving, and eating meals and for many games, chopping wood, or repairing equipment.  Some RVs are or can be equipped with wide-angle lighting but the traditional camp standard is the gas lantern.   The long-time standard camping lantern is the Coleman gas lantern, but today's lanterns come in many sizes, shapes, and fuel choices.  Some of my favorite exterior lights came off of an old ambulance.  They provide excellent flood lighting for night time repairs and other activities, but the bulbs are difficult to find and quite expensive.  Fortunately, they are quite durable.

Awning lights are popular for use on RV awnings.   Some folks string 120-volt patio lanterns along the accessory rail on the awning.   Smaller strings, similar to Christmas lights are also frequently used.  You can find these in various camping themes like mini Coleman lanterns, American flags, and chili peppers.  You could even use ordinary Christmas lights.  Awning lights provide festive illumination for activities under or near your RV awning.  The latest additions include programmable, multi-colored LED rope lights that can put on quite a show.  LED lights will use less power than incandescent versions and won't heat up and possibly damage the awning fabric.  One word of caution when using awning lights:  be considerate of your neighbors.  Excessive lighting might intrude into their space.

White-gas or propane powered lanterns provide a bright white light almost like an electric light bulb.   They also produce quite a bit of heat.  A friend of mine used one as the only heat source for his Class B motorhome on cool evenings.  They might be enough to take the chill off in your motorhome or tent, but always make sure you have adequate ventilation or you could succumb to fumes or suffocate due to lack of oxygen.  One other significant feature of these lanterns is that the mantles are quite fragile. They are made of silk ash.  When they are new they are little silk mesh socks you tie onto the gas outlets of the lanterns.  They are then burned to turn them into ash, which glows brightly when the gas is lit, giving off the characteristic bright white light.  Always bring plenty of spare mantles.  It doesn't take much to break them once they've been burned.  Anytime you use a gas lantern inside an RV or tent or other confined space make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation (yes, it is worth repeating -- repeating and repeating!).

Kerosene lanterns lend an old-fashioned touch to camping.  They are a little less fragile than gas lanterns because they use a standard, sturdy cotton wick instead of the delicate silk ash mantle.  The wick also makes them a little more flexible in the level of light than gas lanterns. They are not nearly as bright and the light is not as white as a gas lantern, but they are economical to purchase and to operate and lend a nice ambiance.  They are usually less expensive to buy than gas lanterns, often under $10. At one time the fuel was commonly used in many homes for lanterns and heaters so everyone already had fuel.  It is seldom used in our urban and suburban homes today but it is still readily available.  One potential downside is that kerosene gives off a distinctive odor similar to jet fuel (which is actually kerosene).   If you don't like the smell of burning kerosene you can burn fragrant lamp oils or odorless "liquid paraffin".   Use citronella oil to help keep the bugs away.   You can usually find kerosene lanterns at farm and ranch stores, at some sporting goods stores and I've even seen them at Walmart.

There are many battery powered lanterns available where ever camping goods are sold.  Some use square 6-volt batteries, some use multiple "D" or "C" cells, some are rechargeable.  Some even have built-in solar chargers to recharge them during the day.  You can even get lanterns with remote controls so you can turn them off after you've already snuggled into your sleeping bag.  One of my favorite tent lights is very small and runs on "AAA" batteries.   It has a florescent tube for area lighting and a focused bulb on one end so it can be used as a directed flashlight.  It is small enough to fit easily into a shirt pocket or fanny pack (about the size of  three ball point pens) and runs on two "AAA" batteries.  These days I'd look for an LED model.   LEDs are much cooler and significantly more efficient than incandescent bubls.   I recently acquired a couple of LED lanterns designed to look like kerosene lanterns.  They have 17 LEDs on a dimmer switch, powered by 3 D cell batteries. The LEDs have a projected life of over 100,000 hours and the way LEDs sip energy, the 3 D cells will last a long time. I've already used them at home for several hours and they show no signs of degradation.  I even left one on overnight in my barn and it was still burning bright the next morning when I went out.  Try that with ordinary incandescent lights and the batteries would be dead dead dead by morning.

Candles are another old-fashioned and inexpensive lighting solution.  Citronella candles on your picnic table also help keep bugs away.  Exercise caution when using candles inside of an RV and be especially careful or avoid using them altogether in your tent.  Candles are very susceptible to breezes.   There are lantern-like candle holders that protect the flame from the breeze and to some extent, provide extra safety if the candle gets knocked over. Candles give off some dangerous fumes and do consume oxygen, so always use them with adequate ventilation.  You can make your own decorative candle "lanterns" from discarded tin or aluminum cans by punching a design into them using an awl or ordinary nails.  Some folks like to paint them flat black so they look more like lanterns.

Tiki torches are often used for back yard and patio illumination and, if you have room to bring them camping, they would provide a nice touch to an evening's activities.  Use some citronella oil in the them and they double as insect repellant.  Do not use tiki torches inside a tent or RV or under an awning or canopy.  If space is at a premium, look for torches that can be broken down into small components you can tuck them in cabinets or camping tubs more easily.  I've seen large candles on a stick that are designed for similar backyard or camping use.

Solar lights provide a safe and energy efficient way to have modest illumination in camp.   They aren't going to light up the campground like a baseball stadium, but they are sufficient to light the pathways, mark tent pegs, and even illuminate your camp stove and dinner table.  And they aren't expensive.   I've even seen them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.  Some were stake-style yard lights and some were designed to look like little rocks (except for the solar panel on top and the lens on one side).  You can probably add a bail or handle and remove the stakes on the yard or pathway lights so you can hang them in your tent or from your RV awning.  I even found a couple of solar powered tent lights at a discount store for $2.00 each.  They are each about the size of a soup can but are sufficient for comfortable tent lighting -- unless you're doing something that requires more intense light, like needle work or surgery!

Custom camp lights can be as creative as you feel like being.  Some of the innovations I've seen and used include bright white flood lights salvaged from a wrecked ambulance and mounted to the wall of my RV and trailer to light up the work area around my motorcycle trailer and a 500-watt 120 volt Halogen yard work light I mounted on a staff that fastens to the ladder of my motorhome when we want to light up the whole campsite for group activities.  Many RVers attach strings of festive lights to their awnings. These are usually more for decoration than illumination, yet can still provide a nice glow for your "patio party" and are available in a variety of shapes and colors.  One of my favorites for general camping is a Christmas light like string of tiny lights shaped like Coleman lanterns.  You might choose lighted chilis for a Mexican themed party or American flags for the 4th of July. The possibilities are endless.   Ordinary Christmas lights could also be used. I suggest going for the new LED lights.  They have bright colors, use little power, and don't get hot like incandescent bulbs, reducing the risk of scorching your awning or canopy -- or your fingers should you happen to touch one.   Rope lights are also popular as awning lights.   Plain white provides comfortable illumination and there are some fancy (but somewhat pricey) multi-colored version with multiple flash patterns and remote controls.

Work lights of various sorts may be needed.   If you have a generator you might use an ordinary drop light, but there are LED,  florescent and incandescent 12-volt work lights you can buy for use on battery power in and around your RV or other vehicle. Some use flashlight batteries and are completely portable; some plug into your 12 volt socket.   A camping lantern can also be used for illuminating a general work area and an ordinary flashlight can be used in close quarters.

Chemical light sticks are good for markers to highlight obstacles or people and to provide some light for moving around.   They usually aren't bright enough for reading or any serious activities, such as cooking, repairing equipment, or playing board or card games.   I did find they were a good substitute for the burning sticks the kids liked to drag out of the fire and wave around.   They lasted longer and eliminated the danger of someone or something getting accidentally set on fire!  I tried attaching them to our "Desert Rat" signs at night to help guide latecomers to camp, but kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them.  I keep one in my fanny pack (safely stored in a short piece of PVC pipe capped on both ends (but not glued).  It may not provide a lot of light for emergency night time repairs on the trail, but it would be better than nothing and any kind of light can provide comfort if you're stuck out for very long.   They can be used for signaling and may even help keep wild animals away.  A light stick is usually adequate to light your way to the latrine at night too.

Strobe lights are sometimes used as markers to aid late arrivals in locating our OHV camps in the desert.  The ones I've used for years are dome-shaped units with suction cups on the bottom and are wired to plug into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle on the outside of my motorcycle trailer.   I've seen really fancy LED "starburst" lights designed for the top of a flagpole that would be even more visible from a distance.  Of course you wouldn't want to use something that bright in a developed campground where it would annoy your fellow campers but it works well in the open desert where we usually have plenty of space between camps.

Natural light.  Moonlight is often adequate for many camp activities when the moon is near full. I've seen it light enough during a full moon in the desert to even ride OHVs (cautiously) without needing headlights.  During a new moon you'll need supplemental light sources, unless you and your companions have the eyes of a cat!   For best results, avoid wiping out your night vision by exposing your eyes to bright lights inside your RV.  When you first step out of a brightly lit RV into a moonlit night, you'll be nearly blind for several minutes until your eyes adapt to the darkness.  If you do need temporary auxiliary light, try using a red filter on your flashlight.   That will usually let you see what you need to see with minimal affect on night vision.   A red flashlight would be useful for illuminating the firewood pile so you don't mess up your night vision.    I find using red filters especially helpful when working with telescopes for star gazing.  They provide sufficient light to assemble and adjust the optics and read star charts and don't trigger the restriction of the pupils like bright white does.

Firelight retains the ambiance of camping.  For large gatherings, a big bonfire might be appropriate.  For more intimate occasions, keep the fire small and add a few Tiki torches if you need more light.  You can fuel the Tiki torches with citronella lamp oil to help keep the bugs away so they're especially good around the picnic table or other eating or sitting areas.  Sometimes having several small fires is more effective and efficient than one big one.

Tent lighting.   I strongly favor battery powered lights for use in tents and other small enclosed spaces.  Any kind of flame-powered light includes the risk of setting the tent on fire and suffocation as the flame consumes available oxygen.  If you MUST use your Coleman or kerosene lantern in a tent, exercise extreme caution and keep a couple of windows open an inch or two for cross ventilation.  Just touching the hot glass globe to a tent wall or sleeping bag can melt it beyond repair, so be VERY careful using any kind of flame device inside a tent.  The close quarters in most tents means you have to be careful not to touch the lantern globe.   It becomes VERY hot and will blister your skin instantly.   My favorite tent light is powered by a couple of AA batteries and includes a spot light and a general illumination flood light.  An LED version would be ideal since the batteries will last longer.

Searchlights and spotlights can be helpful in locating a remote camp when boondocking and for searching for errant campers who may have wandered away from camp in the dark.   Remote control searchlights mount on the roof of RVs and usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings so they can be used for general camp site lighting in "flood" mode or as a beacon or search light in "spot" mode  (helpful finding signs).  Though not as popular as they once were, spotlights that can be mounted on the windshield post of many vehicles can help locating signs and landmarks when searching for a remote camp at night.  In a pinch you might use them to light up an area for after-dark equipment maintenance.   Portable spotlights can also come in handy.  I've seen them with ratings in the range of 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 candle power, having range up to a mile!  I've seen some that used ordinary flashlight batteries, some that are 12-volt powered (connect to a 12-volt cigarette light style receptacle) and even some that are rechargeable.

Trail lighting.  Many ATVs are equipped with headlights so night time operation is often viable. Dirt bikes (especially those designed for motocross), on the other hand, usually don't have headlights unless they are Enduro style bikes or have been modified.  The magnetos on many dirt bikes are not designed to handle the demands of lighting so you may have to upgrade the electrical system if you plan to add lights.  Baja Designs provides light kits for most off-road bikes.  A friend of mine upgraded the electrics on his dirt bike and added a 55 watt halogen driving light as a headlight.  Man, did that light up the trail! We called it the "bush burner".  In an emergency I've seen guys tape flashlights to their handlebars, front fenders, or helmets, but the light pattern is very limited and most flashlights won't last long,  especially given the constant bouncing and vibration to say nothing of the quick battery drain by incandescent bulbs. Unless they are LED flashlights they will drain the batteries pretty quickly, leaving you in the dark again. I picked up a specially designed helmet mounted light but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Chemical light sticks might be used to make the vehicle more visible but they won't provide enough light to see where you're going. Flashlights are very good options for night time hiking. You should have at least one on your person on any hike, just in case you are out after dark. In an emergency you might use duct tape or cable ties to secure a flashlight to the handlebars or front fender of your OHV for at least some lighting.

Emergency signaling.  If you get lost or your OHV breaks down and you're stuck out on the trails after dark, it may be a good idea to just stay put if you can't see where you're going unless you are in immediate danger if you stay where you are.  A flashlight or light stick can make you and your vehicle more visible to searchers or any other riders who may come along and you may be able to use them to flash an "S O S" (three short, three long, three short flashes).  If you think you'll be stuck out for any length of time or all night, you may want to try to get a fire going.   Fire will keep you warm, provide a visible signal for potential rescuers, and keep animals away.  If you use fuel from your OHV to start the fire, make sure your OHV is far enough away from the fire to avoid lighting it up -- and make sure the fuel is shut off before moving your OHV!   For a couple of examples of the consequences of failing to follow this advice, check out the movies "On Any Sunday" and On Any Sunday II".   In "On Any Sunday" the rider manages to set his bike on fire because it is too close to his signal fire.  In "On Any Sunday II" he carefully moves the bike a safe distance away before lighting his fire -- but he had disconnected the fuel line to soak the wood to make getting his fire going easier and forgot to shut it off, leaving a trail of fuel from the fire pit to his bike.  He lights his fire, it snakes a long the trail and "Poof!" his bike once again goes up in flames. On the one hand, a burning bike, will probably make a very good signal, especially once the magnesium parts start burning.   On the other hand, that's a pretty expensive signal fire!   It may be kind of amusing to watch in the movie, but I doubt if any of us would be laughing if it happened to us.  And once those magnesium parts start to burn you're going to have a heck of time putting out the fire without a Class D fire extinguisher.

Light it up!

Camping in a Recession

The recession of 2008 hit us all -- hard! And the RV and camping industry was no exception.  RV dealers and manufacturers have been going out of business in record numbers.   Many of the large, traditional makers of RVs have merged, reorganized, or significantly revamped their offerings due to a drop in demand.   Campers have had to cut back on recreational purchases and activities.  Many of us are taking fewer, shorter trips.  But camping can still be one of the best values around.   If you already own an RV or camping equipment, a weekend away or even a summer vacation can often be done for just the cost of the food and fuel -- and since you have to eat anyway, the only real additional cost is the fuel and even that is often at least partially offset by not commuting to work during your vacation.   If you don't already have the equipment you want, you can probably find some real bargains while people are in the mood to downsize or have a need to convert luxury and recreational items into cash.

How has the recession affected YOUR camping experience?  I think it is safe to say that most of us have had to cut back on recreational activities.  Yet, RVing and camping still offer one of the best values for your money.   If you already have an RV or camping equipment, you are in a position to take low-cost outings.   If you don't already have the gear you'd like to have, there may never be a better time to buy it.  Many people and stores are strapped and are forced to liquidate unnecessary and luxury items at bargain prices.  Check out your local classified ads, garage sales, ebay, and craigslist.  You can very likely acquire or improve your camping gear at pennies on the dollar. Camping in your RV or tent is still a very viable family activity.

If you normally patronize expensive, full-service campgrounds you may want to explore more economical options, such as county and state parks, Forest Service campgrounds, and boondocking on unimproved BLM or Forest Service lands to cut costs.   With most RVs you don't really need full hookups to enjoy a weekend camping.  And tent camping lends itself to just about any place you can pitch your tent. If taking your RV out is too expensive, you might explore tent camping again.  Or you might want to look into downsizing, at least temporarily.  You may find it less expensive to purchase a used travel trailer, tent trailer, or truck camper than to put your big motorhome back on the road.  We have been exploring just that kind of situation.  Our motorhome takes diesel-truck sized tires that cost somewhere north of $275 each and it needs six new tires!  On top of that, the size it needs is obsolete and very hard to find.  We picked up a used truck camper for $100!   Sure, it lacks the space and luxury of our motorhome, but it gives us an economical means for some weekend getaways while we save up for tires, without giving up basic creature comforts.   It also gives us the flexibility to visit smaller campgrounds and negotiate mountain roads where the big motorhome is prohibited so it will get long-term usage too.

Meals and provisions don't have to be expensive.  After all, you have to eat if you stay home.  You don't have to spend any more for meals in camp than you would spend at home. Y ou may have to forgo some of the treats you have become accustomed to taking along on your outings, but if you keep your meals simple, you might save enough to splurge on a few favorite snacks.  Simple meals save time as well as money and may conserve cleaning supplies and reduce on board water usage. Hot dogs and hamburgers are probably not standard week night dinner fare at home, but in camp they are highly appropriate. They're inexpensive, easy to fix, and tasty.

Activities that we used to regularly enjoy may be out of our price range during the recession so some adjustments may have to be made.   If you're heading out to ride your OHVs or personal watercraft, you may have to limit the length and number of OHV rides to conserve fuel and reduce costs.   There are many fun activities you can substitute to fill some of the time.   Horseshoes and lawn darts, badminton and volleyball, are all traditional campground favorites.  Do a little hiking and explore the area around your favorite campground on foot.  You may learn something useful about the trails you normally zip through on your OHV.  Perhaps even organize an on-site service project to clean up around camp or do some trail maintenance.  Might as well turn some of that down-time into productive time.  You will probably be surprised just how much fun and how rewarding such activities can be!   It doesn't have to be a major project.   Clean out the fire pit at your campsite and haul away the non-combustible stuff people have left behind.  Rock rings in primitive camping areas get broken down and often need renovation.  They get filled with non-combustible trash, like cans, and batteries and broken glass.  We once picked up about 10# of rusty nails around one fire pit where unthinking or uncaring campers had burned dozens of pallets. S ure glad those nails didn't end up in my RV or OHV tires!

Limit generator use to conserve fuel and save money.   Do you REALLY need to run the air conditioner all day?  Keep busy with outdoor activities.   When you do have to use the generator it is always good practice anyway to try to combine activities that require running the generator, like waiting until your family is ready to watch TV to run your microwave or dry your hair so you're not running the generator for each individual task.  Keep the window shades closed to prevent unwanted temperature differences and minimize opening the door.  Use a spray bottle to spritz yourself to keep cool instead of relying on cooling your whole RV.   If fuel is a serious concern you may have to sacrifice evening TV to save running the generator.  There are lots of fun things to do outside on summer evenings -- impromptu astronomy lessons, watching wildlife, and good old-fashioned campfire get-togethers.   Maybe take a moonlit nature walk and look for nocturnal animal activity.

Conserving vehicle fuel is one way to cut costs.   Make sure your engine is properly tuned and your tires properly inflated.   Then drive slower.  You might be surprised how much better your gas mileage is at 55 mph than it is at 70 mph.  Avoid driving in rush hour traffic.  The stop-and-go uses a lot more fuel than cruising at a steady speed.   Try to time your arrival at stop lights so you can keep moving.   It takes lots of gas to bring a motorhome or truck and trailer up to speed again.  If the traffic lights are properly timed you should be able to hit green lights regularly by traveling at the posted speed limit.   But don't count on it. Some places deliberately time the lights to make you slow down or stop frequently, hoping you will notice and patronize local businesses or so they can catch you in an unscrupulous speed trap.

Take shorter trips.   Look for destinations closer to home.  You may be surprised at the opportunities for weekend get-a-ways that don't require driving long distances.  Sure, those beautiful mountain campsites are really appealing, but a nicely shaded county campground closer to home might save you hours of driving and lots of gas and still be a fun getaway.

If it comes down to it, do a little back-yard or driveway camping.  You stay in practice using your equipment and will keep things ready for "real" opportunities.  You may want to put on an ocean sounds CD to simulate being at the beach, or a wind-song CD to emulate the wind in the trees at forest campground.  Build a campfire in your backyard.  Using your equipment, whether an RV or tent camping, lets you keep up with any needed cleaning or repairs and lets you get some use out of your investment!  My grandfather used to say "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out" and I believe that applies to a lot of our equipment as well.   Improper storage and infrequent use is likely to result in a nasty surprise the next time we do have an opportunity to use our equipment.  Metal parts rust or corrode, fabrics fade and weaken, gaskets and seals deteriorate.  Occasional use can keep things in working order and prevent premature failure.  Sometimes I've felt like I wanted to "save" something for future use only to find it was worthless when the time came.  How much better it would have been to have worn it out in the backyard than have to just throw it away without ever using it!

Take advantage of the slow economy to upgrade your equipment. You may find excellent deals on new and used items.   Dealers may be overstocked at the end of the season.  People who have lost their jobs or experience other financial setbacks may be pressured to sell off their RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.  Sad as that may be for them, it can be substantial savings for you, perhaps allowing you to obtain things that might not otherwise be in your budget.  And meeting their fair asking price may help them more than you know. I know a guy who bought a 36' cabin cruiser and trailer for $500.   It needed some engine work that he was able to do himself for about $75.   Now THAT'S a bargain in anyone's book!

Keep on camping!

Orphan RVs

What the heck is an "orphan RV?" Well, it is an RV that has no living parents -- that is, whose manufacturer has gone out of business. And in today's economy that is happening with frightening regularity! What does that mean to you? Orphan RVs can often be purchased at substantial savings. Many buyers are reluctant to purchase an "orphan" RV because they fear they will have trouble getting parts or service and that drives the price down. Which can make "orphans" an exceptional value to savvy buyers. While some cosmetic components may become difficult to obtain, most functional parts of an RV are provided by the same standard manufacturers across many brands. The chassis of a motorhome is seldom custom-made by the manufacturer. Most buy the chassis from companies like Workhorse (GM), Ford, Dodge, Spartan, Sprinter )Mercedes Benz) and Gillig. Even custom-made chassis use standard engines and transmissions like Ford, Cheverolet, Cummins, Caterpillar, and Allison. The axles, brakes, etc of trailers are also pretty much standard components. So, if your orphan motorhome or trailer has a mechanical problem, it is likely you can still get parts and service for many years to come.

The same thing applies to especially to appliances. Water heaters, furnaces, air conditioners, stoves, refrigerators, etc are usually standard brand names for which parts and service are readily available.  The worst case is that you have an off-brand appliance you can't get parts for and have to replace it with a current model in a standard brand or find a good used unit from a salvaged RV.  Most current water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators use an electronic control board.  If that fails, there is something called a "Dinosaur board" that is a universal replacement for almost any type of RV appliance and any brand.

About those cosmetic components.  Turns out many of the same exterior panels are used by many manufacturers so sidewall damage can often be readily repaired.   Damage to custom-made front-end and rear-end caps and related trim could be more difficult.  However, availability will probably be no worse than for many older brand name units and many of the fiberglass parts can be readily repaired by any competent auto body shop.  Chances are, if you're an accident that is bad enough to totally destroy a front or rear cap, there will be a lot of other damage and the unit may be totaled.  In some cases a entire new front or rear cap may be fabricated, but since it would probably involve building a custom jig, it will be quite expensive.

Resale values for orphans may be low. That works to your advantage when buying one. When it comes time to sell or trade, you probably won't have lost very much more value than you would from a non-orphaned unit over the same period of time -- unless your unit was orphaned after you bought it.  If you bought it at a reduced price to start with, a good share of the "orphan devaluation" will have already taken place.   If your RV becomes an orphan while you own it, don't despair!  It is still as functional as it was when you bought it.  You will probably want to drive it long enough to get your money out of it rather than dump it right away and take a big loss.  After all, there was a good reason you bought it in the first place and that reason is probably still valid.

What if my current RV becomes an orphan?  First of all, don't panic.   It's new status isn't going to have any direct or immediate impact on its usability or functionality.  If you panic and rush to get rid of it, you're very likely to lose more of your investment than is necessary.  Your best bet is to continue to use it and keep it in as good a condition as you can.  As a hedge against potential scarcity of parts you might want to start watching ebay and craiglist where you might be able to pick up some bargains from other, more panic-ed owners.  I have even found it useful to obtain parts for my older, non-orphaned RVs so I have them on hand if I need them.   That way I'm not forced to pay high prices for things if/when repairs do become urgent.  Over the years I've found a few items I felt it was worth "hoarding". Sometimes it has paid off, sometimes I've ended up never needing my "treasures", but either way, I've never regretted my "investments".  I once got a REALLY good deal on an complete electric step I've never used and probably never will, but I got it cheap and may yet find a use for it -- if not for myself, perhaps for one of my friends.   I had planned to use it on my motorcycle trailer but it is far too big for the low ground clearance of the trailer.  It may yet serve as an organ donor for parts if the step on my motorhome starts dying.   (Addendum:  I finally scrapped this monster when we moved, saving only the motor, which can be used on the electric steps on many different motorhomes). 

Any way you cut it, there is little reason to be afraid of buying an "orphan" RV. S avvy buyers (and sometimes savvy sellers) will know that orphans can be just as reliable and serviceable as any other RV.  I have personally owned orphan RVs and the orphan status has never been a problem, but I did get a good deal on them when I bought them and that added up to getting more RV for my money!  It can actually be kind of fun owning an unusual RV.   Sometimes they make a good subject for campfire conversation too.  It can be fun owning something no one has seen before.  Some extinct manufacturers are worthy of a little research to fuel your camp stories.

Adopt an orphan today.

Camp Kitchens

When we're camping we usually like to do a lot of our cooking outdoors, even when we camp in an RV and have brought an indoor kitchen with us.   Some RVs now come with an optional outdoor kitchen.  A lot of folks cook over the campfire, set up a BBQ, or use a camp stove outside instead of taking advantage of the home-like galleys in their RVs that compare favorably to their home kitchens. Cooking outside is especially advantageous in hot weather when it is good to minimize heating up the inside of your RV.  It is also nice to take things with strong odors outside so they don't pollute the interior.  The residual odors of yesterday's fish can be downright stomach turning after a day or two in a hot RV.   I picked up a big Camp Chef stove I like to use outdoors. It has much larger burners than a typical Coleman camp stove and grill/griddle options that provide a near professional method for cooking hot cakes or hamburgers.   It also has an optional "BBQ Box" that turns it into an ideal cooker for burgers etc along with the pair of grill/griddles that are great for pancakes and steaks.. Cooking outside helps keep the RV cooler and avoids the accumulation of odors in the furnishings. There is an increasing trend toward "outdoor" kitchens in new RVs.  Although manufacturers are claiming these are a new innovation, in reality they are an adaptation and re-creation of the kind of kitchen used by the teardrop trailers of yore, which in turn were based on chuck wagons.  Some RVs now offer optional outdoor kitchens ranging from a BBQ or a sink and fridge that slide out from a curb-side storage compartment to full-wall units that include microwave ovens, refrigerators, sinks, counters, cabinets and even TVs.   Some implementations are built in to the RV wall and you gain access by opening large doors that then serve as wind breaks.  Some are on the curb side and others are on the rear (even more reminiscent of teardrop trailers). Some slide out perpendicular to the RV wall.  A common feature is a swing-out or slide out BBQ tucked into a "basement" compartment.  With many of these variations, you have everything you need to prepare and serve a meal and clean up in one convenient outdoor location, without having to constantly run in and out of your RV or overheat the interior.

RV galleys usually provide most of the conveniences of your home kitchen, albeit often on a reduced scale.   You will want to organize your RV kitchen -- indoor or outdoor --- to make it as easy and convenient to use as possible.   Keep frequently used items like utensils and spices within easy reach. Stock your RV kitchen with the items you find most useful and enjoy using.  Not everyone needs the same pots and pans and your needs may vary from outing to outing.  Basic items like a frying pan and various sizes of pots are pretty much standard equipment for any camp kitchen.   If you plan to do any baking, make sure you have the appropriate baking pans on board.  A small, hand-held electric mixer will usually suffice for most camp recipes and takes up little room.  If you're tent camping, a hand-cranked mixer will do the trick.  For RVs equipped with a built-in food processor base, acquiring the various attachments can add a lot of convenience.  The basic unit usually includes a blender.  Other typical options include a mixer, a can opener, an ice crusher, a juicer, and a knife sharpener.   When using your RV kitchen be sure to provide plenty of ventilation.   There should be a vent above the range but opening some windows and one or more roof vents for improved air flow will prevent a build-up of both stove exhausts and cooking fumes and odors.  The limited space in the galleys of most RVs will restrict the number of people who can reasonably help in preparing meals, another reason outside cooking is popular.

Outdoor kitchens are by no means limited to fancy RVs.  Pretty much by definition, if you are tent camping, your "kitchen" will be outdoors.  Traditionally a tent camper's "kitchen" consists of a camp stove and an ice chest.   A plastic dishpan or portable sink probably rounds out the features.  That all works pretty well if you are in a developed campground with picnic tables where you can set up your "kitchen".  But what if you are boondocking and there are no picnic tables?  Well, of course you can bring your own folding table and you probably will want to for dining convenience.   There are also a number of folding "camp kitchen" units available to help organize your outdoor kitchen.  They are usually made of aluminum and collapse into a compact package 6" square or less. When opened up they provide a stand for your cooler, camp stove, cooking utensils, and sometimes even a little bit of counter space and maybe room for a dishpan or sink and a vertical pole for a lantern stand.  Units like these are too large and too heavy for back packing, but for base camps and car camping, they provide a lot of convenience.   They also make a good alternative for RVs that don't have outdoor kitchen facilities so you don't have to further heat up the inside of your RV cooking inside on hot days.  The run the gambit from simple stands for your camp stove to more complete units like this deluxe Camp Kitchen at Cabelas.

You might build your own chuck box, patterned after old time chuck wagons.  You can design it to fit in whatever available space you may have -- in your trailer, pickup bed, the back of an SUV or station wagon, or even to fit in the trunk of your car.  Here is a sample build it yourself chuck box  you might want to check out for some ideas.  For more information, see my post on Chuck Boxes.  Remember you'll have to load it into your vehicle and carry it to your camp site so don't make it too big!   If you include a sink, use a separate water jug to keep down the weight of the box.   Of course, if your chuck box is built in to your trailer, you don't have to worry as much about weight and can focus on convenience -- both for setting it up and using it.

Of course, you can always resort to more primitive methods, and that can be kind of fun.  Re-discovering the techniques used by our ancestors can be interesting and educational.  How did the American pioneers prepare their meals during long wagon-train trips across the plains?  How did trappers and "mountain men" live for months and even years between trips to town?   How do they make do during a "walkabout" in the Australian outback?  How did the Aztecs, Incas, and American Indians handle routine household tasks without the modern conveniences we enjoy today?  A little research on the Internet can answer many of these questions and give you some ideas for some interesting adventures.  Learn how to cook meat and even bread on a stick over an open campfire.  Try some "ash cakes".  Swap your traditional Cheerios, cornflakes, or Fruit Loops for some old-fashioned corn meal mush.  What facilities made up the "camp kitchen" of a wagon train or a cattle drive?  Count on finding a lot of cast-iron cookware and perhaps a tripod among their preparations. Also count on finding easy, basic meals that can be quickly prepared with simple ingredients and limited resources.  Like the cattle drive cook in the movie "Cityslickers" said about his grub: "It's hot, brown, and plenty of it!"   Rustic camp furniture may not be as light weight and comfortable as today's camp chairs, but they were functional and, you might need to know about them if you find yourself in a survival situation.  Need something to sit on?  You can make a temporary camp stool from a couple of pieces of flat wood.  Take one just a little shorter than from your knee to the ground. Stand it on end and balance another one, about a foot to a foot and a half long centered on top of it. With a little practice you can sit on this "one legged stool" quite comfortably.  And even though you can't recline like you do in your favorite camp chair, it sure beats sitting the dirt or mud and is easier on your back and knees than squatting by your campfire to do your cooking or socializing.

Regardless of the type of camp kitchen you use, you want to make it convenient.  Keep extra fuel handy, but safe from heat.  Keep your pots and pans and utensils close to where you'll use them and well organized.  Keep spices and flavorings within easy reach.  Keep your fire supression materials where you can grab them quickly if needed.   Keep your food preparation area clean and try to clean and put away items as you use them instead of piling them up to wash after dinner. Doing them as you go will make it a lot easier to find items if you need to reuse them and will significantly reduce clean-up time after dinner.   Cleaning as you go also avoids stuff "baking on" to implements.  For a simple example, consider fried eggs. If you wash your plate while the residue is still wet, it is easy to clean.   If you wait until it has dried, it will take a LOT of scrubbing and/or soaking to remove it.   Residue in pots and pans can be even worse.  Simply filling a pot with water after the food has been removed but while it is still hot will go a long way toward making it easier to clean when the time comes.

Portable camp kitchens can make meal preparation and doing dishes a lot easier in camp.  These are collapsible aluminum frameworks that hold your camp stove and usually have a place to hang cooking utensils. The larger and fanciers ones will also have a shelf for a cooler and perhaps even a plastic sink and some counter space. Some have little wire-rack shelves to hold spices and/or cleaning supplies.  A camp kitchen frees your picnic table for eating and avoids getting it scorched by hot stoves or greasy from cooking spills.  Click here for an example of a basic Coleman Camp Kitchen.  There are links on the page so some of alternate versions too.  While portable camp kitchens are mainly designed for tent campers, RVers could use them as outdoor kitchens too.

If you are a tent camper, keep your kitchen stuff organized in plastic tubs so it will be easy to use when you need. it.  We got so used to having everything "including the kitchen sink" in our RV that I found myself quite unprepared when I took my boys on a dirt bike outing using just our enclosed motorcycle trailer.  The next time out, I had stocked a couple of plastic bins with basic camp cooking gear.  Not only did they make the occasional trailer-only outing easier, I used them on a number of tent trips with the Boy Scouts.  I included things like plastic utensils, plastic plates, bowls, and cups, cooking and serving spoons, dish soap, dish clothes, dish towels, paper towels, napkins, can opener, kitchen knives, some basic pots and pans, and some common spices like salt and pepper.  For added luxury I tossed in some envelopes of hot chocolate and spiced cider.  If you expect any kind of bad weather during your outing, or if you just want to be prepared in case bad weather comes, set up your camp kitchen to protect you and your food if things do "go south".  If you need to cook in the rain, you'll need a tarp high enough to allow smoke and fumes from your fire or stove to safely escape without harming the tarp and not be trapped where they will choke you and burn your eyes.  A wind break might be in order too.  DO NOT plan to cook in your tent!  Cooking in your tent may cause a fire, could suffocate you and other occupants, and could infuse the fabric with odors that will make it nearly uninhabitable as they age.   I suggest using separate tarps for your kitchen because they will get coated with cooking residue making them unsuitable for other uses.

Camp cookware.   There are many options for camp cookware.   If your budget is limited you can get by with bringing along some of your regular kitchen pots and pans. J ust be careful about putting lightweight aluminum pans in the fire or overheating them on the stove.   I've seen aluminum cookware melted down into puddles in campfires.  If you are in an RV or are primarily car camping where weight is not a major consideration, cast iron cookware is a traditional camp standard.   It is durable and generally provides even heat.  You aren't likely to damage it in even the hottest campfire. Cooking with cast iron takes some practice and remember you need to "season" it before you first use it or after it has been scrubbed.  To season cast iron cookware, coat the cooking surface with oil (shortening, butter, lard, bacon grease) and heat it until the oil burns away.  This will leave a "patina" on the surface that is necessary for proper cooking.  There are many camp "mess kits" on the market. They are usually made of aluminum so be careful not to melt them.  Good camp cook sets are made to "telescope" or "nest" inside each other to conserve space.  Often the lid for the big pot doubles as a fry pan. Many camp cook sets include plastic plates, cups, and flatware, kind of an all in one meal time solution.   These are a good choice when space and weight is a major factor.  A good, old-fashioned coffee pot is a good way to heat water for beverages and other uses. I use an the old "speckle-ware" pot. Be sure you have heavy leather gloves or a good hot pad to handle it, 'cause the handle WILL get very hot! Thrift stores and garage sales are good places to look for inexpensive items to build or supplement your camp cookware so you don't have to risk losing or damaging your pots and pans from home and so  you can keep your RV or camp kit fully stocked and ready to use.

Survival cookware. If you get lost or your OHV breaks down far from camp you may find yourself in survival mode and without any normal cookware.  This is definitely an opportunity to get creative. You can cook meats and breads (assuming you have a way to obtain the ingredients) on a stick or on a flat rock.  You may be able to heat water in a clay pot -- form clay or mud into a bowl shape, fill it with water, and drop in hot rocks from your fire until the water reaches the temperature you desire. If you have access to large leaves you may be able to use them to wrap meat or fish, and vegetables together to make a tasty stew. The best place to cook one of these packages is in the coals. If you try to cook it over open flames, you will probably dry out and burn the leaves and set the whole thing on fire long before the food inside gets cooked. See what resources you have available. In a survival situation you might remove the headlight "bucket" from your OHV and use it for a cooking pot.   In survival mode you may have to forage for food.   Learn what plants and animals inhabit the areas where you'll be going before you get there and be on the watch during normal activities for edible plants and animal signs so you'll be prepared if you find yourself in survival mode.  Learn how to make simple traps (like rock deadfalls) from natural materials.

Outdoor cooking in bad weather presents some special challenges.  Tempting as it might be, cooking in your tent or under your RV awning or dining fly is NOT a good idea. Y ou may have to hold an umbrella in one hand and cook with the other during rain -- or get a fellow camper to hold the umbrella for you.  Sometimes in developed campgrounds there will be a canopy or pavilion you can use for protection.   Rain or wind may make it difficult to keep your fire going at the right level long enough to prepare your meal.  I've seen the time when it was so windy my gas BBQ would barely warm meat instead of cooking it!  I added wind breaks before my next outing.  If you rely on your campfire for cooking, plan ahead and try to schedule your cooking between squalls and keep plenty of dry firewood handy to keep your fire going.  Wind can make things very difficult.  Even gas-fired BBQs and camp stoves will need wind guards to remain effective and efficient.  If you don't have wind guards to fit your stove, you may have to improvise using tarps and camp chairs to block the wind.  Or have several people stand close together on the windward side to provide some shelter.  I have seen creative campers stretch multiple tarps high over an entire campsite to protect a large group of people from the rain. There was room for a central campfire, cooking on camp stoves, and eating on picnic tables.  They kept the cooking near one edge and had the tarp high enough that it didn't present a fire or smoke problem.  With the tarp high enough in the middle and an adequate vent opening they were even able to safely maintain a modest fire without smoking everyone out. Fortunately there was enough breeze to carry the smoke away.   Often it rises up and gets caught under any roof and curls back down to annoy campers.   If you MUST cook under any kind of awning or tarp, make sure it is high enough over the fire or stove so it isn't scorched or melted by the heat and leave some kind of opening near the highest point to serve as a chimney for the smoke.  Put your stove or BBQ near the edge of the awning, with the wind at your back (while facing out from under the awning) while you're cooking so smoke, fumes, and odors won't accumulate under the awning.   Your shelter won't last long if it catches fire and then you'll be much worse off than when you started.

Have fun cooking out!

First Aid Kits and Training

Accidents can happen anytime, anywhere.   This is no more apparent than when camping.  The very nature and location of camping activities presents situations outside our normal day-to-day lives where we may very well incur injuries that need more than some first aid spray and a Bandaid -- and professional medical help may be many miles and/or hours away.  Many outdoor activities carry a risk of serious injury.  Even if we are careful, wear proper safety equipment, keep our equipment in good condition, and are experienced and take proper precautions, "stuff" happens.  Because many if not most camping activities occur in remote locations, having good first aid skills is essential to deal effectively with injuries since emergency medical services will probably some distance away.   Proper first aid can prevent additional trauma and sometimes can, literally, be life saving.  You can never have too much first aid training and practice.   Keep your skills and certifications up to date by participating in regular training exercises and classes.  Recommended procedures are updated quite regularly.  Sometimes knowing what NOT to do is as important as knowing what TO do.  First aid supplies and training will also come in handy in any kind of disaster situation -- at home, at work, or on the road.  Being adequately prepared for camping and exercising your training will help you be ready for emergencies at home.

Proper preparation involves two main ingredients:  good first aid skills and proper resources, such as a good first aid kit and appropriate supplies.  You will need both of these in order to deal with medical emergencies on the trail or in camp or during an emergency at home.  But even with both of these, the most important thing of all is to keep a cool head.   If you panic, your ability to help yourself and others will be substantially diminished.  Maintaining your cool when a loved one is severely injured is not easy.  Even the sight of a stranger's wounds may cause you to cringe or even become physically ill.   Proper training and preparation will make it easier for you to get past the gore and screaming and focus on what to do.   It isn't going to help your victim if you scream 'Oh My God!' and turn away or throw up.  No matter how bad it looks to you, do your best to stay calm and do whatever is within your power and training to assist.

You can buy a good first aid kit at just about any camping, sporting goods, pharmacy, or department store.  There are many brands, styles, and sizes to choose from.  The kit you need depends on the kinds of activities you and your associates will be involved in, the number of people involved, and the kind of injuries you might expect.   Small, simple first aid kits that fit in your pocket and basic skills are adequate for minor personal injuries -- small cuts and scrapes, minor burns, blisters.  These are usually adequate for simple outings like picnicking, camping, and hiking. You can sometimes even pick these up at "dollar stores" so everyone should have one in his pocket or pack. instantly available for their own needs or those of their companions.  If you're involved in more vigorous activities (horse back riding, OHVs, rock climbing, water skiing, jet skis, snowmobiles, etc.) that might lead to more serious injuries such as broken bones or arterial bleeding, you need a more sophisticated first aid kit and more advanced training.   If you want advanced first aid kits, look for kits designed for hunters.  Even then you will need to supplement commercial first aid kits to meet your particular needs.  None of them will come with your prescription medications and only the largest and most elaborate and expensive will include the splints, large dressings, and large bandages you may need for "extreme" activities.   Government surplus stores are a good place to pick up some of these items.  Surplus military supplies are usually heavy duty and can be had at bargain prices if you shop around.  You can also improvise.  You can make your own bandages from bed sheets or other cotton cloth.  Bandannas make good slings and bandages.  Sanitary napkins and even tampons can be used for dressings.  They are readily available, inexpensive, and are often more absorbent than ordinary gauze dressings.   Splints can be made from sticks or scraps of wood or rolled newspapers or magazines. A convenient type of commercial splint is a wire splint.  These are made from expanded metal.  They come in a roll and can be easily cut to size.  They can be formed to fit most limbs comfortably and once unrolled and formed, create a rigid splint.  They are comfortable and light weight. The initial roll form makes them easy to carry in fanny packs and first aid kits.  The only downside is they are a bit pricey and you may have to special order them.  In a pinch, you can use rolled up newspapers or magazines to immobilize fractures.  I have actually done that several times and gotten praise from the triage nurses when my patient arrived at the ER.   I supplement my commercial first aid kits with extra OTC pain relievers. I can usually find a variety of generic pain relievers at the local dollar store, making it inexpensive to have just about every type of OTC pain reliever on hand to accommodate the preferences and needs of everyone in your group.  Whether your patient is allergic to certain products or simply has a preference for what works best for him/her, having the right one on hand is always helpful.   Even if it is only the "placeo effect", having the pain reliever you're used to using seems to work better for most people.   I've found that anti-diarrheal medications are handy for outdoor activities too and you won't find them in most commercial first aid kits.  Camping frequently means eating unfamiliar foods and all too often involves other sources of digestive problems.  Antacids are also good to have on hand.   I have also found it useful to have several different types of antiseptic since some people may be allergic to certain formulas. The latest guidelines proscribe using alcohol or hydrogen peroxide to cleanse open wounds. In addition to being painful, these powerful antiseptics can kill healthy tissue along with the germs. Flush wounds with clean, preferably sterile, water. Don't have any water handy?  Surprisingly, urine is sterile, unless the donor has a urinary infection.  A student in a first aid class once asked a nurse about using soda pop to cleanse wounds and she quickly advised him that urine would be a better alternative.  The sugar in soda pop is an ideal medium for bacterial growth and would promote infection.  Apply a modest amount of antiseptic to prevent further infection or use an antiseptic bandage. For small wounds I like Bandaids treated with silver. Silver has natural antibiotic properties and few people have adverse reactions to it.  Speaking of silver, liquid colloidal silver was once a very popular antiseptic and is very effective.  You may have to search online to find a source for it.  It seems to me it also speeds healing.

First aid kits are often sized by the number of people and number of days they are designed to support.  Match your first aid kit to your situation, based on how many people you will be responsible for and for how long you think you will need coverage.  The math is pretty easy if you have, say, a family of 4 and you want to cover your weekend (2 or 3 day) outings.   Estimates can be more difficult if you are planning for a local emergency where you may not know how many victims you might be treating or for how long before normal emergency medical services are restored.  For camping and on the trail, you will necessarily need to limit how much stuff you carry, but for long term emergencies at home it is good to build up as large a stock of supplies as you have budget for and room to store.

You can obtain first aid training through local Red Cross approved courses.  These are often offered by scouting organizations, schools, adult education programs, fire departments, civic groups, churches, hospitals, and local government agencies. Once you have mastered basic first aid skills, you may want to seek advanced training.  Many advanced first aid courses are available.   I had a unique opportunity to go beyond ordinary advanced first aid.  My wife was working for a medical school and I was able to attend a course in Advanced Wilderness Life Support to enhance my preparations for handling off-road emergencies.  We both also obtained the training to become certified as Red Cross Professional Rescuers.  I frequently tout the benefits of getting C.E.R.T. (Community Emergency Response Team) training and strongly recommend it to everyone.  The medical triage and first aid modules provide excellent training for all kinds of emergency medical operations and coupled with CPR and first aid certification should prepare you for most of the situations you will encounter during outdoor recreational activities.

You will probably need to customize your first aid kit to fit the specific needs and preferences for you and your family.  Most comprehensive kits come with at least one generic pain reliever like aspirin or acetaminophen.  Check to see what you have in yours and supplement per your own preferences.  I try to keep a supply of several generics in my RV medicine cabinet, including aspirin, acetaminophen, and ibuprofen.  Antiseptics are another item that is often subject to strong personal preferences.  Some people are terribly allergic to some antiseptics, so make sure you have products in your first aid kit compatible with all members of your group.  If anyone is allergic to bee stings, have your doctor give you a prescription for an epi-pen and teach you how to use it.  If anyone in your group takes prescription medications, keep an up to date stock in your first aid kit.  Make sure all medications are clearly labeled with the type of medication and the expiration date.  If you don't have an expiration date, record the purchase date so you at least have some idea how old things are so you can replace them before they become ineffective or even dangerous.  Some medications, such as aspirin will give off a recognizable odor when they start to go bad. If you detect a vinegar smell when you open your aspirin bottle, it is time to toss it out and replace it.  Still, if you open your aspirin in an emergency and the only bottle you have smells like vinegar, I would consider them better than nothing and use them anyway.  In fact, an Army study concluded most medications are good for at least 15 years after their expiration date, so don't be too quick to toss out things you might need in a future emergency unless there are obvious signs of deterioration or contamination.

Many people confuse bandages and dressings.   What is often called a bandage is really a combination of a dressing and a bandage.  A dressing is used to "dress" or cover the wound. A bandage is used to hold the dressing in place.   A Bandaid is essentially a combination dressing and bandage.  Thus, the pad on a Bandaid is a dressing; the plastic or fabric adhesive strip it is attached to is the bandage.  For large wounds, gauze pads are frequently used as dressings and held in place by cloth or tape bandages.  A dressing protects the wound from dirt and infection and also absorbs blood.   Sanitary napkins make excellent emergency dressings.

Responding quickly, confidently, calmly, and appropriately to a medical emergency saves lives and helps set the stage for the victim's comfort and recovery.  Stay calm and methodically apply your training and skills as required by the situation. If YOU scream, turn away, or throw up, it isn't going to help anyone.  On the other hand, if you remain calm and move with confidence, your patient(s) will respond better and you'll be able to accomplish a lot more.  One of the most useful techniques I learned in C.E.R.T. training is a "60 second assessment".  This is particularly useful when the number of victims exceeds the number of rescuers, which is often the case in an emergency situation.  You methodically examine each victim from head to toe, especially looking for signs of serious (life threatening) injuries, but taking inventory of all injuries for subsequent triage and treatment.  You use touch, sight, and hearing to locate injuries.  You may feel unusual bumps or depressions in body parts. You may detect soft spots that shouldn't be soft (like the skull) or places that are hard that shouldn't be hard (like the abdomen).  Inappropriate soft spots are likely signs of crushed bones or tissue.  Rigidity in the abdomen may indicate internal bleeding.  If your victim is conscious, ask them questions:  where are they injured?  where does it hurt?  how bad is the pain?  how were they injured? In addition to the facts they give you, you can discern something about their mental state from their answers.  Though it isn't a pleasant idea, pain is actually your friend when doing an assessment, though your patient may not agree.  We don't want to intentionally inflict pain on an injured person, but if they cry out when you gently touch them, you have found an injury and that is important information.  Wear latex gloves if possible to prevent both infecting your victim and contaminating your own hands.  Begin by running your hands lightly over their head.  Start with the scalp and work your way down.  Check your hands frequently for blood, especially after checking the back of the head or other places you can't easily see.  Gently check cheek, nose, and jaw bones and eye sockets for signs of bruising or broken bones.  Look for bleeding or other fluid in the eyes and ears. Bleeding from eyes and ears is not good, but clear liquid is even worse since it is probably cerebral fluid from the brain indicating a serious head injury.  Check the back of the neck.  If you find any protruding bones whether they have broken the skin or not, there is likely a cervical spine injury. Do not move the victim unless they are in immediate danger of further injury.  Try to immobilize the neck to reduce the risk of further injury.  Next run your hands down their arms and hands.  Once again you are looking for distortions, pain, or blood.  If you find no injuries, try gently lifting their arms to check for shoulder injuries.  You should not attempt to relocate a dislocated shoulder if you have reasonable access to emergency medical services (within an hour or two).   If the victim complains of numbness or tingling in the affected limb, or if a check for capillary refill indicates restricted circulation, it may be advisable to attempt to relocate the shoulder right away -- if you have been trained in the technique!   Next, check the back and ribs.   Any unusual protrusions may indicate broken or dislocated bones or the presence of a foreign object. If there are no indications of protruding bones, press firmly on the rib cage with your palms to check for broken ribs.  If the ribs are cracked, broken or bruised, your victim will cry out.  If they are broken, you might feel or hear the ends grinding together.   About all you can do for injured ribs is wrap the victim's chest tightly to restrict unnecessary movement and prevent additional injuries.  Some practitioners now advise against tightly wrapping ribs because it can inhibit breathing so use discretion.   Some containment can improve comfort but don't make it so tight it restricts breathing.  Press on the abdomen to check for rigidity or pain.  Rigidity may indicate fluid build up from internal injuries.  Run your hands down both sides of both legs, ankles, and feet. You will need to begin your examination uncomfortably close to the victim's crotch.  A damaged femoral artery can be life threatening (the person can bleed to death in about 3 minutes) and the artery runs the full length of the inside of the thigh.  You don't want to have them die because you -- or they -- were too shy for a thorough assessment.

Treating serious injuries.  In an emergency situation you will have to do some triage.  That means you need to identify and treat the most serious injuries first.  That doesn't mean taking care of the first victim you come to, the person who screams the loudest or who is the bloodiest first.  Check the ABCs -- airway, breathing, and circulation.  A person whose airway is blocked won't live long -- about 3 minutes before brain damage beings to occur.  Nor will they survive long if their heart has stopped or they have severed or blocked arteries.  Arterial bleeding can be differentiated from other bleeding by the way it spurts with each heartbeat.   "Ordinary" bleeding will just ooze or flow. Some "ordinary" injuries, like scalp injuries, will bleed profusely but such bleeding is not life normally threatening unless left untreated for long periods of time and can usually be controlled by direct pressure.   Place a dressing (preferably sterile if possible) over the wound and apply direct pressure to slow the bleeding.  You may be able to have the victim hold the dressing in place if they are conscious or you may be able to assign other "walking wounded" victims to assist you so you can examine other victims.  If you encounter spurting blood, you MUST control the bleeding quickly or the victim WILL bleed to death.   Typical locations for severed arteries include the neck, thigh, chest, and arms.   You may be able to control even arterial bleeding with direct pressure, depending on the location and extent of the injury.   In some cases a tourniquet many be required.  The general advice is to avoid using a tourniquet unless there is no alternative.  Tourniquets can cause loss of limbs below the tourniquet, but it is better to lose a limb than a life.   At one time there were recommendations to release the tourniquet periodically to allow blood to flow into the closed off limb in an attempt to preserve it.  Today the recommendation is that once you have applied a tourniquet, leave it in place until it can be removed by medical professionals.   Loosening it can allow contaminated blood from below the tourniquet to return to the heart causing further complications, even death.  Better to lose a limb than a life.  Another serious injury that needs special attention is a compound fracture.  First of all, what is a compound fracture?  Simply put, it is a broken bone that protrudes through the skin.  A broken bone that does not poke through the skin is a simple fracture.   If you will have access to professional medical services in a reasonable amount of time (a few hours at most) simply rinse any dirt and debris off the exposed bone using clean water, cover it with a dressing and try to keep it moist and immobilize the break to prevent further injury.  Do NOT try to put it back in place.  In an extreme, long term emergency where medical attention may not be available for days or more, you may need to attempt to retract the bone for the patient's comfort and to minimize further injury and infection.  Here is where some extra training is a necessity.  DO NOT try to set any broken bone or reduce a dislocation if you haven't been trained to do so!  For both compound and non-compound fractures, splint the break by attaching something rigid parallel to the bone and secure it above and below the fracture.  Secure the splint in at least two locations on each side of the break and immobilize the joints above and below the break to prevent movement that could produce more injuries.  In normal circumstances, do not try to re-align the broken bone, just secure the damaged limb in place with as little movement as possible.   In a long term disaster situation where trained medical help will not be available in a reasonable amount of time, you may need to be able to set broken bones.  So get trained if you can.   Wood splints are commonly used on broken limbs, but lacking wood you can use a rolled up newspaper or magazine, cardboard, even a rolled up towel -- anything that will help immobilize the break.  A broken leg can usually be securely fastened to a healthy leg if no other splints are available.  Secure the splint both above and below the break, making sure you don't tie it so tightly as to shut off circulation.   Keeping it from moving will greatly reduce pain, improve the patient's comfort, and prevent further injuries.  Broken fingers and toes can be taped or tied to adjacent digits to stabilize them.  About all you can do for broken ribs is wrap the torso to limit movement.   Broken hands, feet, wrists, and ankles should be immobilized using a splint.

Shock is another serious condition that occurs with many injuries and it can be life threatening if not treated.  Shock occurs with any trauma and can occur without physical injury.  Shock usually does accompany serious physical injuries.  And remember, your victim might not have any external wounds and yet have serious, even life threatening internal injuries.   I know of a dirt bike rider who crashed really hard, got up and dusted himself off, and insisted he was OK.  He refused any assistance and rode back to camp.  A few hours later he was dead from a ruptured spleen.  Careful monitoring of his condition may have detected his internal injuries in time to get treatment.  Abdominal pain and swelling, headache, dizziness, and large areas of purple skin are all signs of internal injuries.  If you or your victim experience any of these, especially if they get worse was time goes on, seek immediate medical help.  Signs of shock include low blood pressure, fast weak pulse, profuse sweating, nausea, dizziness, fainting, clammy skin, shallow rapid breathing, and blue fingernails or skin.   If a victim has any of these signs, especially more than one, they are going into shock.   If possible, lay the victim down, elevate their feet, and cover them with a blanket or coat to keep them warm.   I once passed out in a dental chair and the first thing the idiot dentist did was to set me up!   The boys in my scout troop know enough to lower the head to treat shock!  The first thing the paramedics did when they arrived was lower my head.   Reassure your victim and immediately begin treatment for any life-threatening injures.  One way to assess blood pressure any where is what is called "capillary refill". Squeeze a fingertip or press on a fingernail for a second or two, then release and see how quickly the color under then nail returns to normal.   If it takes longer for your victim to return to normal than it does for you, they are probably in or going into shock or have some injury that is affecting circulation, such as a severed or pinched blood vessel.

There are legal considerations you need to be aware of to avoid expensive liability, especially when treating strangers.   In most states there are "Good Samaritan laws" that provide some measure of legal protection but they do not protect you against gross negligence or inappropriate actions.  You will not be protected if you attempt treatment that is beyond your skills and training.  Before beginning treatment on any victim, ask their permission.  If they are unconscious or otherwise mentally impaired you may be covered by the concept of "implied consent".   A good way to approach a stranger at an accident scene it to say something like "I am medically trained.   Is it OK if I treat your injuries?"   Stating you are "medically trained" helps give them confidence in allowing you to treat them.   What does it mean to be "medically trained"?   Obviously if you are a doctor or nurse you are medically trained.   For purposes of assisting victims in a disaster or other emergency situation, having first aid certification could be considered being "medically trained".   If you are first aid certified, chances are you are better prepared to give assistance than most of the other by standers.   As long as you provide treatment within the scope of your training you should be safe from prosecution.  The answer to the question "Should I try to help?" should usually be an unequivocal "YES!".   You can always turn treatment over to more qualified medical personnel as they arrive, but doing nothing in those first few critical minutes could have serious negative affects.

There are important psychological aspects to giving first aid.  Whenever you treat a victim, you need to present a confident appearance.  Your attitude is going to have a significant affect on how your victim responds to your treatment.   Strive to control your reactions to their injuries.   It isn't going to do them any good if you scream or turn away or cover your face or cry or throw up!   If your victim is conscious, tell them you are "medically trained" and ask permission to treat them.  Telling them you are medically trained does not imply that you are a doctor, but gives them confidence in your ability to assist them.   Keep them informed about what you are doing.  Some parts of a good 60 second assessment may require rather intimate contact with your victim.   Make sure they know your actions are purely to assess and treat their injuries and avoid any prolonged contact that could be misinterpreted.  However, do make sure your assessment is thorough.  Better you and your victim experience a little embarrassment than you miss a severe chest injury or a severed femoral artery (a life threatening injury).  Make sure any bystanders are also aware of your training, your intentions, and your actions.  A paramedic at an automobile accident got sucker-punched by a female victim's boyfriend when he attempted (appropriately) to remove the victim's bra to administer CPR -- largely because the paramedic failed to explain what he was doing.  By the way, bras should always be removed to perform CPR.  They interfere with proper pressure and movement, and, in the case of under-wire styles, can cause further injuries.   I've heard of bra wires puncturing the victim's lung during attempted CPR with the bra in place.   CPR is a vigorous and demanding activity.   Even properly done it can break ribs.  Once you start CPR, you don't stop until you are relieved by another competent rescuer, told do so by emergency medical services personnel, or you become too tired to continue. And that's not just "I'm tired of doing this" kind of tired, it's "I really am too completely worn out to give even one more push"!  At that point it isn't likely to be a deliberate decision, but rather involuntary collapse.  And, by the way, don't perform CPR on a victim wearing a "DNR" (Do Not Resuscitate) medical ID.

First aid training may come in very handy in any kind of local disaster as well as out in the woods.  Local emergency services will be stretched beyond limits in a wide-scale event such as an earthquake, hurricane, or tornado.  Remember:  YOU are the only first responder you can really count on!  You may be on your own for days or even weeks and have to rely on the skills and equipment you have on hand.  Get the training and equipment now, before you need it!  Run through potential scenarios in your head and plan your response today.   Practice with your local C.E.R.T. or other emergency response team.  Coordinate with and educate your family and your neighbors and co-workers.

Advanced and specialized supplies and equipment.  A fairly inexpensive item that can come in useful for many extreme sports injuries is a back board.  It may be needed to transport your victim if there are any spinal injuries. Spinal injuries can occur in many sporting event accidents.  Crashing on OHV, falling off a horse, skiing accidents, and diving accidents are among the most obvious ways spinal injuries can occur.  If you even suspect spinal injuries, as a precaution you should stabilize the victims neck (medics all this "C-spine" for cervical (neck) spine). This is usually done with a cervical collar.  In an emergency  you might  use towels or sheets to limit movement.  A backboard can be made from a piece of plywood.  It should be about 2 feet wide and 6-7 feet long.  Cut hand-holds about every 18" or so along both sides so several people can get hold of it to securely move victims. Rounding the corners will make it easier to maneuver in tight spaces and through doorways.  If you need a backboard and don't have one you may be able to improvise using a door or table.  Other useful items, though usually somewhat expensive, are hemostatic dressings.  These dressings are treated with chemicals that stop blood flow.  Be aware that some people who are allergic to shell fish may have an severe allergic reaction to the chemicals in hemostatic dressings.  In an emergency or for minor wounds, you can use cayenne pepper to stop bleeding.   You might hang on to leg, neck, and back braces if anyone in your family has used them or look to pick some up at garage sales or thrift stores.   A cervical collar is a good addition to any first aid kit for extreme sports and for disaster preparedness.  Same with crutches.  You probably won't want to pack them along on camping trips, but they might be a useful addition to your home first aid supplies for extended emergencies.   It wouldn't hurt to tuck a pair away in an RV closet if you have the room.  These days portable defibralization devices (AEDs) are becoming fairly common in airports, schools, and even restaurants and some other businesses.  They are still too expensive for most home first aid kits, but if you have the budget, they would be definitely be good to have.  They are simple to use and may save a life. Make sure get trained how to use them.  It isn't difficult and most of it is automatic, but you still need the training.   Until you can acquire your own, keep an eye out for where you might find one.  These days you might find them in airports, restaurants, theaters, malls, schools, and other public places.  I recently saw an advanced first aid kit designed for emergency preparedness that includes lidocaine, hemostatic powder (stops bleeding), sutures, and a tourniquet.   I am not certain of the legal requirements for using lidocaine or suturing wounds, but in an extended emergency situation where normal medical services may be interrupted or weeks or months, having advanced supplies like these might be advantageous.  You probably wouldn't need them for incidents arising during normal recreational activities.  Along those lines, antibiotics may be something to have on hand.  Since stockpiling prescription medications is severely limited by current laws, you might look into veterinary or aquatic versions.   Some aquatic antibiotics are identical to the human prescriptions, right down to the color and numbering on the capsules.  And you don't have to have a prescription to buy them.  In dire emergency, even feeding a victim of infection moldy bread may be beneficial.  Bread mold is the source of penicillin.

Wilderness medicine.  In the unlikely event you get lost or stranded without any medical supplies, it can be useful to know what natural resources may be helpful.  Since natural resources will vary from location to location, be sure to research what lives and grows in the areas you will be visiting.  As an example of natural remedies, consider that willow bark was used by Native Americans and other primitive peoples going back as far as 400 BC much like we use aspirin, to treat pain and inflammation.  It actually contains an ingredient (salicin) similar to the active ingredient in aspirin (acetyl salicylic acid).  In fact, acetyl salicylic acid, is actually a synthesized version of salicin. You can chew the inner bark or seep it in hot water and drink the tea. Aspen and poplar also have similar properties.  I found that chewing about 6-8" of bark stripped from a green branch about 3/16" gave me about the same relief as a couple of aspirins.   Another way to use willow bark it so make it into a mild tea.   Do not use or administer anything containing salicin to anyone who is allergic to aspirin. Diarrhea and some other stomach problems can be treated using charcoal (readily availble in the wood ash from most campfires).  Just grind up a tablespoonful, mix it in a cup of water, and drink it.   It tastes TERRIBLE, but it can relieve a lot of the stomach distress. Another use for charcoal is to apply it around your eyes to help prevent snow blindness.   If you lack dressings and bandages, you may be able to make your own from local plant materials.  Covering an open wound with a large clean leaf and securing it with vines or long grass, for example.   Check out the resources in the areas you frequent so you can take advantage of them if you find yourself in a survival situation.  Not all resources are available in all areas.   Having extensive knowledge of  the marvelous pharmacological benefits of tropical jungle plants won't do you much good in a pine or hardwood forest or in the desert.

Good Samaritan laws protect providers of first aid in most states.  That means that if you are acting in the best interests of your victim(s) within the scope of your knowledge and training you are generally protected from criminal charges and civil suits.  However, if you go beyond your training and certifications and something goes wrong, you could be liable.   Good Samaritan laws are designed to protect first responders and encourage ordinary people to help -- within the scope of their skill, knowledge, and training.

Look out for yourself!  When it comes to helping people, you need to consider yourself your number one priority.  This isn't a totally selfish concept. Y ou can't help others if you become a victim.  Assess the situation before you jump in to help someone.  Can you help them without endangering your own health and safety?   Every year many would-be rescuers become additional victims when they generously attempt to help someone when it isn't safe to do so.  If you are dealing with injuries where there are bodily fluids like blood present, wear rubber gloves. A concept taught to emergency services personnel is: If its wet and it isn't yours, don't touch it!

As the Boy Scouts say, "Be prepared!"