Today's society has an obsession with convenience and instant gratification. We are surrounded by "labor saving" devices and we have a tendency to carry our obsession over into our camping experiences. I have a friend whose idea of "roughing it" was having to ring twice for room service. Let's face it: we like our creature comforts! No doubt one of them is not having too many uninvited creatures in our living abode! That is, certainly, one of the driving forces behind Recreational Vehicles (pun intended), but even when tent camping, we like to make things as comfortable and easy (and free from unwanted intruders) as possible. We seek equipment that is lighter, roomier, more comfortable, more durable and easier to carry and use -- and to clean. My favorite tent is a pop-up tent. To set it up you just remove the retraining strap and throw the folded tent up into the air. Its fiberglass poles make it spring loaded. Poof! It pops open, ready to stake down and use. Instead of sweeping it out I usually just pick it up each morning and shake out any debris that has been tracked in. Camp chairs have evolved from heavy wood and canvas creatures of yesteryear to lightweight aluminum and fiberglass mesh creations that weigh a fraction what their predecessors did and fold up into more compact form. The more recent "bag" or "quad" chairs collapse into a 4" square package for transport that is easy to carry and takes up very little room. We use sleeping pads and air mattresses and even folding cots to increase our night time comfort. Camp stoves give us near residential control over cooking instead of having to cook over fickle open fires. We bring along folding tables and chairs and awnings and umbrellas to increase our camping comfort and keep at bay the very nature we came camping to enjoy. Gas and battery powered lanterns give us near residential illumination options in even the most remote locations. Portable water heaters give us hot showers even when tent camping. Battery powered radios and TVs bring home-like entertainment even out in the sticks.
Luxury motorhomes are the epitome of roughing it easy. Some are literally equipped with ALL the comforts of home, including forced air furnaces, air conditioning, range and oven, washers and dryers, dishwashers, multiple bathrooms with hot water, and even sophisticated home theater entertainment systems. I've even seen some with hot tubs! Most modern motorhomes and travel trailers include a microwave oven. Some are equipped with a "power center" built into the counter top to power a variety of food processing implements. Many up-scale RVs include elaborate and powerful home theater systems that rival or surpass their residential counterparts. Queen and king size beds with memory foam pillow top mattresses often match or even exceed their equivalents at home in terms of slumber inducing comfort. Even the famous "Sleep Number" beds are available now in sizes to fit your RV. Side by side refrigerators and ice makers adorn high end coaches. Some even have gas or electric fireplaces! We liked that idea so well we purchased a small portable electric fireplace to use in our classic Class A motorhome. It adds a nice, cabin-like ambiance together with 1500 watts of auxiliary heat on cool nights. Automatic electric steps and electrically operated awnings take some of the physical labor out of using your RV -- hopefully leaving you more time and energy for fun activities! Hydraulic and even computerized automatic levelers level and stabilize our homes on wheels at the touch of a button. Unfortunately, the only exercise many campers get is bending their elbows to consume their favorite beverage and the only weight lifting they do is hoisting a brewski from the cooler or a remote to tune the TV. That is one reason I find adding OHVs to our camping trips healthy as well as fun and exciting. You might be surprised how many calories you can burn riding a motorized off highway vehicle! Even though the motor does most of the work, Supercross has been defined as THE most physically demanding sport in the world and since it is a formalized form of dirt biking, dirt biking is also quite demanding. I usually have to (happily) take my belt up a notch or two after a weekend of dirt biking.
Just because you enjoy the air conditioned comfort of your home-theater equipped luxury motorhome when you're "camping" doesn't mean your not a "camper". You don't have to work up a sweat and smash your thumbs setting up a tent to enjoy the benefits of camping. The sights, sounds, and smells of the campground are the same whether you're sitting under your beach umbrella or lounging under the awning of an elegant 40' Class A motorhome. There is nothing wrong with seeking the most convenience and comfort you can afford. Whether your temporary abode is a second hand tent or the most magnificent mansion on wheels you can still share the love of the great outdoors and revel in the camaraderie of the campfire and it is great to "get away from it all" for a few days or so. And no matter what our individual means of transportation or our choice of accommodations, we all strive to make our outings more convenient and more fun.
What will make your camping life easier? Your needs will vary according to your camping style, climate, activities, destinations, family size, and personal preferences to say nothing of your budget. Almost every camper will benefit from light weight, comfortable camp chairs. Good lanterns and flashlights will improve and make safer evening and nighttime activities. If you don't like cooking over an open campfire, check out the many alternatives -- camp stoves, portable BBQs, solar ovens. Each time you visit a sporting goods or RV supply store, look over the new gizmos and a gadgets, especially devices which help you better organize your gear and campsite. As time goes by, manufacturers make improvements to traditional products that may make them lighter, more compact, more convenient, more powerful, or more durable so compare new products with those you're already using. And don't let anyone talk you into things you don't really find appealing or out of of things you really like. Hey, if having and using nice, professional grade, stainless steel cooking and serving spoons gives you pleasure, go ahead and upgrade to restaurant quality from the cheap plastic ones you may have started out with. They may be heavier to haul around, but the extra weight and durability might be more than worth it. My wife criticizes my fascination with and seeming addiction to hand tools, but quite honestly, they give me pleasure and I usually find them to be very useful. Some simple, inexpensive camping gizmos we've found useful include clamps to secure the table cloth to the picnic table so it doesn't blow up over things (or blow things over) and wall-mount toothpick and match holders that put them right at your fingertips when you need them. Bathroom organizers hold and protect toothbrushes, toothpaste, and paper cups.
Some motorhomes and travel trailers are equipped with central vacuum systems. If yours doesn't have one and you have a spare cabinet (like under the bed or dinette) you may be able to add one. Or just get a compact canister vacuum. It will be a lot less expensive and nearly as convenient.
Tent campers are not immune from seeking more comfort. Larger tents with front porches or built in screen rooms expand livability. Portable canopies provide extra outdoor comfort with shelter from sun and rain. More comfortable sleeping pads or mattresses or cots make for better slumber. Improved gas or battery powered lanterns can give almost the same illumination as 120-volt lights do at home. Portable hot water systems can deliver wonderful hot showers on demand. Portable chairs and tables reduce reliance on picnic tables and let you avoid sitting in the dirt!
Funny isn't it? We go camping to get away from it all and then try to take it all with us! And that's OK!
Rough it easy!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Expanding Your Storage Options
Somehow we always seem to have more stuff to carry around than we have room for. Eventually we run out of storage space even in huge RVs with expansive "basement" storage compartments. The first thing to do when that happens is to re-evaluate what we're carrying around. Over time we tend to accumulate stuff that is seldom used and is best left at home except on trips where you KNOW you're going to use it. The exceptions to that rule are tools and emergency supplies. With any luck, we won't need our tools or emergency supplies on most outings so they may fall into the seldom used category, but it is still a good idea to make room for them. More likely candidates for reduction include souvenirs from previous trips and seasonal clothing and equipment that only needs to be loaded up for appropriate outings. Some souvenirs from previous outings might be unintentional, like heavy mud deposits in the wheel wells or the frame.
Storage is a concern when tent camping too. You need to make efficient use of available space in your tent, your camp site, and your vehicle. You also need to consider how you'll store your equipment at home between outings. If you need to carry more equipment than fits in the trunk of your car or the back of your truck or SUV, you may need to consider getting a small utility trailer. Roof pods and storage racks or trunks that fit into the hitch are also viable options for both tent camping and RVs.
Your first priority should always be to make do with the space you have. Many times simply organizing things better will improve storage capacity. You may have to make trade offs to choose which things are most important and make the best use of the limited space you have. Try hard to adjust what you bring along to fit within the space and weight limits you have. What if, after I've eliminated unnecessary items, I still need more storage? Two external storage options come immediately to mind. Outside storage isn't the most convenient to use but is the easiest to add. One is the external trunk, a box that attaches to your trailer hitch to provide extra storage space. Or just a hitch mounted storage rack. These can be used on motorhomes, SUVs, pickup trucks, cars -- anything with a tow hitch. You might be able to add a hitch to the back of your trailer to mount an external trunk or storage rack. A second option is a roof pod. Roof pods can add significant storage space to just about any RV or other vehicle IF the roof is strong enough to support the load and tolerate being walked on. Some RVs have areas that have been specifically reinforced to accommodate storage pods. If you don't know if yours is so equipped, carefully walk the roof and see how much it flexes when you walk on it. If it flexes a lot, it probably won't support a storage pod. Mounting a pod requires locating rafters to secure it to. If you not sure of where the rafters are, you should seek professional installation to make sure your pod doesn't come off and to avoid permanent damage to the roof. Roof pods are best used for light weight items. Heavy items are difficult to carry up the ladder and put more stress on the roof. You also want to limit the amount of weight you carry that high as it will raise the center of gravity and make your unit more unstable in cross winds and in the blow by from passing trucks. Soft-side roof carriers can be added to most passenger cars and SUVs and are good for transporting tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, and suitcases. I prefer to place hard items like stoves and lanterns in the car trunk or the cargo space of an pickup or SUV.
If you are tent camping or your RV is a motorhome and you live and travel in a state that permits multiple trailers, you may be able to solve storage problems by towing a small utility trailer. This is an especially good solution for temporary needs, such as hauling extra equipment and supplies for a large gathering or special gear for a specific activity. If you need more storage for all your outings, towing a trailer may be an added inconvenience and ultimately you may be better off seeking other solutions, such as storage pods or even getting a larger RV, perhaps one designed with the extra storage you need for a particular activity.
Extra interior storage. Most RVs have already made pretty good use of every available nook and cranny but sometimes you may find some hidden storage or may be able to make better use of available storage. Sometimes adding shelves to large cabinets can give you more usable space. I once discovered some dead space in a Class A motorhome near the bed, under what served as a night stand. By removing the top I gained access to a compartment big enough to mount a "pancake" air compressor without sacrificing any other usable compartments. An alternative use of the space might have been to put a door on the compartment so the space inside could be used as an additional cabinet. I saw an idea for storing cutting boards in the galley that was pretty clever. The owner simply cut vertical slots in the front of the cabinets between the doors to allow him to slide the cutting boards into unused space between cabinets. If you want to try this, make sure there are no obstructions (like plumbing or wiring or structural elements) in the way of where the boards will go before you start cutting. In addition to cutting the slots you will need to provide supports for the cutting boards inside the cabinets. Another neat idea I'm planning to implement is making kitchen knife holders that attach to the inside wall of a cabinet to hold the knives securely out of the way. If you use this idea. store the knives with the sharp edge up so they aren't dulled by travel vibration. Or use a magnetic knife holder to keep them safe and easily accessible.
Wire racks and shelves are an easy way to add space for books, magazines, maps, manuals, spices, cleaning supplies, and sundries. They can be mounted just about anywhere there is adequate wall space or, sometimes they can be used to good advantage inside cabinets to improve storage options and efficiency.
Space bags can compress bedding and clothing so it doesn't take up so much room in drawers and cabinet. While they don't actually add space, they make better use of available space. You might even use them in closets to capture bulky clothing you don't use frequently.
Organizers. There are a number of organizers for automotive and home closet use that can be adapted for your RV. Check out the trunk organizers for cars and behind-the-seat organizers for pickup trucks. You may find a place to use them in your RV. The cloth shoe caddies that hang on the back of a door can be adapted to hold many things besides shoes and can be used effectively on closet and bathroom doors. Spice carousels can enhance storage and convenience in your kitchen cabinets and might be adapted to organize medicine bottles in the bathroom. Be creative!
Plastic tubs can be used to corral loose items that otherwise tend to bounce around and often take up more space than necessary. I like to use translucent tubs so I can kind of see what is inside. Plastic baskets can likewise be used on shelves or in cabinets to organize items and make it easier to get to things that aren't right up front. Baskets and tubs also keep things from sliding around during vehicle maneuvers.
Be creative. Look for unused spaces that can be adapted. I make use of the gaps between the 1" steel frame of my motorcycle trailer and the roof to store folding aluminum chairs, my "Desert Rat" outing sign posts, and my collapsible flag pole. They remain secure, out of the way, and convenient to use when I need them, without sacrificing other valuable space.
A word of caution: Do NOT try to store things inside the furnace or refrigerator access panels nor against power converters or inverters or water pumps. The clear space around them is there for a reason! These devices have clearance and heat dissipation requirements that, if compromised, will lead to problems, such as over-heating that can damage the equipment and even set your RV on fire. Avoid storing heavy items in overhead cabinets where they could become unguided missles during unusually violent maneuvers.
A recent article in Highways (The Good Sam Club Magazine) had an "outside the box" solution for a couple who was looking for ways to bring along a motorcycle and a scooter on their planned full-time trip. They were debating whether to get a bigger tow vehicle or add an extra trailer. Bob Livingston aptly suggested getting a toy hauler but it was his second suggestion that was "outside the box": simply rent a one-way truck (or trailer) to transport the machines between destinations since they were planning to spend 3-4 months in each location. If you need extra capacity for a single event, do consider an extra vehicle for that one event. If you find yourself frequently renting extra equipment, consider buying. Owning your own stuff makes sense if you use it regularly. It may save you money and will definitely be more convenient but if you only need it now and then renting (or borrowing) is the better option.
Stow it!
Storage is a concern when tent camping too. You need to make efficient use of available space in your tent, your camp site, and your vehicle. You also need to consider how you'll store your equipment at home between outings. If you need to carry more equipment than fits in the trunk of your car or the back of your truck or SUV, you may need to consider getting a small utility trailer. Roof pods and storage racks or trunks that fit into the hitch are also viable options for both tent camping and RVs.
Your first priority should always be to make do with the space you have. Many times simply organizing things better will improve storage capacity. You may have to make trade offs to choose which things are most important and make the best use of the limited space you have. Try hard to adjust what you bring along to fit within the space and weight limits you have. What if, after I've eliminated unnecessary items, I still need more storage? Two external storage options come immediately to mind. Outside storage isn't the most convenient to use but is the easiest to add. One is the external trunk, a box that attaches to your trailer hitch to provide extra storage space. Or just a hitch mounted storage rack. These can be used on motorhomes, SUVs, pickup trucks, cars -- anything with a tow hitch. You might be able to add a hitch to the back of your trailer to mount an external trunk or storage rack. A second option is a roof pod. Roof pods can add significant storage space to just about any RV or other vehicle IF the roof is strong enough to support the load and tolerate being walked on. Some RVs have areas that have been specifically reinforced to accommodate storage pods. If you don't know if yours is so equipped, carefully walk the roof and see how much it flexes when you walk on it. If it flexes a lot, it probably won't support a storage pod. Mounting a pod requires locating rafters to secure it to. If you not sure of where the rafters are, you should seek professional installation to make sure your pod doesn't come off and to avoid permanent damage to the roof. Roof pods are best used for light weight items. Heavy items are difficult to carry up the ladder and put more stress on the roof. You also want to limit the amount of weight you carry that high as it will raise the center of gravity and make your unit more unstable in cross winds and in the blow by from passing trucks. Soft-side roof carriers can be added to most passenger cars and SUVs and are good for transporting tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, and suitcases. I prefer to place hard items like stoves and lanterns in the car trunk or the cargo space of an pickup or SUV.
If you are tent camping or your RV is a motorhome and you live and travel in a state that permits multiple trailers, you may be able to solve storage problems by towing a small utility trailer. This is an especially good solution for temporary needs, such as hauling extra equipment and supplies for a large gathering or special gear for a specific activity. If you need more storage for all your outings, towing a trailer may be an added inconvenience and ultimately you may be better off seeking other solutions, such as storage pods or even getting a larger RV, perhaps one designed with the extra storage you need for a particular activity.
Extra interior storage. Most RVs have already made pretty good use of every available nook and cranny but sometimes you may find some hidden storage or may be able to make better use of available storage. Sometimes adding shelves to large cabinets can give you more usable space. I once discovered some dead space in a Class A motorhome near the bed, under what served as a night stand. By removing the top I gained access to a compartment big enough to mount a "pancake" air compressor without sacrificing any other usable compartments. An alternative use of the space might have been to put a door on the compartment so the space inside could be used as an additional cabinet. I saw an idea for storing cutting boards in the galley that was pretty clever. The owner simply cut vertical slots in the front of the cabinets between the doors to allow him to slide the cutting boards into unused space between cabinets. If you want to try this, make sure there are no obstructions (like plumbing or wiring or structural elements) in the way of where the boards will go before you start cutting. In addition to cutting the slots you will need to provide supports for the cutting boards inside the cabinets. Another neat idea I'm planning to implement is making kitchen knife holders that attach to the inside wall of a cabinet to hold the knives securely out of the way. If you use this idea. store the knives with the sharp edge up so they aren't dulled by travel vibration. Or use a magnetic knife holder to keep them safe and easily accessible.
Wire racks and shelves are an easy way to add space for books, magazines, maps, manuals, spices, cleaning supplies, and sundries. They can be mounted just about anywhere there is adequate wall space or, sometimes they can be used to good advantage inside cabinets to improve storage options and efficiency.
Space bags can compress bedding and clothing so it doesn't take up so much room in drawers and cabinet. While they don't actually add space, they make better use of available space. You might even use them in closets to capture bulky clothing you don't use frequently.
Organizers. There are a number of organizers for automotive and home closet use that can be adapted for your RV. Check out the trunk organizers for cars and behind-the-seat organizers for pickup trucks. You may find a place to use them in your RV. The cloth shoe caddies that hang on the back of a door can be adapted to hold many things besides shoes and can be used effectively on closet and bathroom doors. Spice carousels can enhance storage and convenience in your kitchen cabinets and might be adapted to organize medicine bottles in the bathroom. Be creative!
Plastic tubs can be used to corral loose items that otherwise tend to bounce around and often take up more space than necessary. I like to use translucent tubs so I can kind of see what is inside. Plastic baskets can likewise be used on shelves or in cabinets to organize items and make it easier to get to things that aren't right up front. Baskets and tubs also keep things from sliding around during vehicle maneuvers.
Be creative. Look for unused spaces that can be adapted. I make use of the gaps between the 1" steel frame of my motorcycle trailer and the roof to store folding aluminum chairs, my "Desert Rat" outing sign posts, and my collapsible flag pole. They remain secure, out of the way, and convenient to use when I need them, without sacrificing other valuable space.
A word of caution: Do NOT try to store things inside the furnace or refrigerator access panels nor against power converters or inverters or water pumps. The clear space around them is there for a reason! These devices have clearance and heat dissipation requirements that, if compromised, will lead to problems, such as over-heating that can damage the equipment and even set your RV on fire. Avoid storing heavy items in overhead cabinets where they could become unguided missles during unusually violent maneuvers.
A recent article in Highways (The Good Sam Club Magazine) had an "outside the box" solution for a couple who was looking for ways to bring along a motorcycle and a scooter on their planned full-time trip. They were debating whether to get a bigger tow vehicle or add an extra trailer. Bob Livingston aptly suggested getting a toy hauler but it was his second suggestion that was "outside the box": simply rent a one-way truck (or trailer) to transport the machines between destinations since they were planning to spend 3-4 months in each location. If you need extra capacity for a single event, do consider an extra vehicle for that one event. If you find yourself frequently renting extra equipment, consider buying. Owning your own stuff makes sense if you use it regularly. It may save you money and will definitely be more convenient but if you only need it now and then renting (or borrowing) is the better option.
Stow it!
Upsizing
Since upsizing is the most common practice, it is almost self-evident, but it is worth mentioning a few of the things to keep in mind when it comes time to move up. Upsizing in this article applies mostly to RVs, but tent campers will often want to upsize to larger tents and other equipment too. Many of the concepts given below for upsizing considerations for RVs can also be applied to getting a bigger tent. The justification, timing, and even the idea of alternatives, are all applicable to tent camping as well as RVing. Upsizing might be applied to upgrading your equipment even it it doesn't mean getting larger versions.
Many of the reasons for upsizing have more to do with wants than needs. Sometimes you really do need a bigger rig as your family grows, but very often we just want more luxury and convenience. We often see features on rigs belonging to fellow campers that we find desirable and it is surprising how quickly we begin to perceive our wants has needs. Many of our upgrades were driven at least as much by desirable additional features as they were by the need for a larger RV as the family grew from 2 to 6 kids. Today's RVs even have slide outs that expand the living space once you are in camp and eliminate the "tunnel" feeling of older rigs. I've seen some big motorhomes with slide outs on both sides where the main living area rivals my living room at home. Let's face it, unless you are using your RV for business parties it is hard to justify slide outs as a need, but a lot of us sure want them, and they are very nice to have. The open space certainly does make many activities more convenient and comfortable even though they usually don't expand bed space. Some other, often coveted amenities include ice makers, electric steps, built-in food processors, automatic levelers, and home theaters. It is really kind of strange. We go camping to "get away from it all" and then strive to take it all with us. But, I guess, we can even overdose on the wonders of the great outdoors and it is nice to have a refuge where we can return to the familiar womb of electronic entertainment and modern conveniences to sooth our psyche and give us an alternate means of escape. It sure is nice to have a climate controlled RV to return to after an afternoon of outdoor activities, whether its a place to warm up after snowmobiling or a place to cool down after some desert trail riding or just too much sun at the pool or on the lake.
When to upsize is something you have to determine based on your own situation. Certainly if your family has grown and you no longer have enough beds for everyone is one measurement. That prompted one of our first upgrades from a handy little Class B van conversion to a larger Class C bunkhouse style motorhome. When we first upgraded to Class A motorhomes, we considered the front salons an unnecessary luxury and a frivolous waste of space, but after a few long trips with 6 kids, we decided that extra space was a necessity. Today slide outs would probably be high on the list. If you find your RV too cramped for activities such as preparing and serving meals you may want to consider moving up. If you REALLY have strong feelings about some of the additional luxuries and conveniences, you will want to include those in your plans for your next RV. Regardless of the fundamental reason(s) for upgrading, there are some basic steps you will want to take to make sure your solution is a satisfactory one. First, make a list of all the features you desire and prioritize the list. Some items will be on the "must have" list, some may be "nice to have", and some may be completely optional. Check the prices on the options you want to make sure they are within your budget and to help you prioritize what you "need" most. You may decide some upgrades just aren't worth the cost. Second, check out rigs with the features you want. You may be able to find pictures and reviews on the Internet and in RV magazines. Visit RV shows and RV dealers so you can walk through some units and get an idea of what feels right and what doesn't. Collect prices as you go so you can evaluate potential deals and get the best value. If you find your perfect rig, try to contain your excitement to allow yourself to negotiate the best possible deal. Jumping up and down and chanting "I want this one!" is not going to give you much bargaining power with the seller. If you are considering previously owned rigs, be sure to either check them out or have them checked out carefully. It is way too easy to get excited about desired features, a nice paint job, and a "special price" when you find that "perfect" RV and overlook basic problems that could be inconvenient and expensive to repair. If the price is too good to be true, there is probably a good reason. Ask questions of the seller. Why is the unit being sold? How did he/she arrive at the asking price? How often and where did they use the RV? Do they have service records? Where has the unit been stored? What, if any, upgrades does it have? Has it ever been in a serious accident or had any structural damage or mechanical problems? If so, how were they resolved?
Upsizing alternatives. There all some alternatives to getting a bigger motorhome or trailer, depending on your current situation and your needs. If you have a motorhome and need more sleeping room, you might be able to purchase a small travel trailer or utility trailer to pull behind your motorhome to expand your living and/or cargo space, depending on your needs. This may a be a lot less expensive than buying a bigger motorhome and you can even rent the extra unit when you need it instead of having to buy one. Having a second RV will expand virtually all of the facilities, including beds, cooking area, bathrooms, fresh water supply and holding tank capacity. Carefully consider what additional facilities you really need. Make sure the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating and hitch rating of your motorhome is adequate to pull a trailer. If you have a trailer and need more space, a second trailer will only be an option if you live and travel only in states where you can tow multiple trailers or have a second vehicle and driver to tow the second trailer. Also make sure you will be comfortable towing two trailers. Small, older travel trailers can often be purchased at very low prices. If all you need is more cargo space, a small utility trailer or a roof pod may take care of your needs for at least a while. Another way of expanding living space in camp on an existing RV is with an "add-a-room", which essentially is a tent or awning enclosure that attaches to your RV. Sometimes, you can redesign some of your interior space to better fit your particular needs. This usually takes the form of swapping out furniture in the main living space to either increase sleeping capacity or create more floor space and make it easier to move around. More extensive modifications might redesign the gallery to make it more efficient to use and/or create additional storage or counter space. Bathrooms are often tight and difficult to improve. Many RVs have only a shower, but if you need a tub to bathe toddlers, you might be able to replace the shower pan with a suitably sized RV tub -- or just bring along a baby bath tub. If your primary need is increased sleeping capacity you may be able to install fold down bunk beds over existing sleeping and seating areas. I've seen several Class B's with cots that fit on pipe rails across the front seats. This idea can be adapted to many other types of RVs and even vans and passenger cars. More convenient, permanent (and expensive) options are beds that drop down from the ceiling. Some are even electrically operated. These are not cheap mods, but they may be a lot cheaper than buying a bigger RV! They will probably require professional installation to be sure they are properly anchored and do not compromise the structural integrity of the RV.
Downsizing to upsize. OK, how's that for a paradox? Here is what I mean. Instead of getting a bigger rig, try getting rid of some of the stuff you're carrying around all the time. Make more room by eliminating un-used or seldom used items and by making better use of the space you have. Perhaps you can move some items to an outside compartment or roof pod to make more space available inside. You might be surprised how much you can improve usability with some creative organization. Take inventory of your equipment. There may be newer, more compact versions of some of your gear and equipment that will help you lighten the load and make more room. More efficient use of existing space can make a surprisingly large difference in the livability and convenience of your RV. Because space is so limited to start with even small changes can achieve a significant percentage difference.
Parking/storage. When choosing a larger RV, be sure to consider your parking and storage requirements. You don't want to learn your new RV is too tall to fit in your RV garage by ripping the A/C off the roof when you drive in! Is it too long for the available parking space? Will it fit through access gates? If you have a steep driveway, will the overhang drag? You don't want to smash your dump valves or tail pipes or rip off the back bumper. Any problems with parking or storage should be eliminated or mitigated BEFORE you buy a bigger unit.
Move on up!
Many of the reasons for upsizing have more to do with wants than needs. Sometimes you really do need a bigger rig as your family grows, but very often we just want more luxury and convenience. We often see features on rigs belonging to fellow campers that we find desirable and it is surprising how quickly we begin to perceive our wants has needs. Many of our upgrades were driven at least as much by desirable additional features as they were by the need for a larger RV as the family grew from 2 to 6 kids. Today's RVs even have slide outs that expand the living space once you are in camp and eliminate the "tunnel" feeling of older rigs. I've seen some big motorhomes with slide outs on both sides where the main living area rivals my living room at home. Let's face it, unless you are using your RV for business parties it is hard to justify slide outs as a need, but a lot of us sure want them, and they are very nice to have. The open space certainly does make many activities more convenient and comfortable even though they usually don't expand bed space. Some other, often coveted amenities include ice makers, electric steps, built-in food processors, automatic levelers, and home theaters. It is really kind of strange. We go camping to "get away from it all" and then strive to take it all with us. But, I guess, we can even overdose on the wonders of the great outdoors and it is nice to have a refuge where we can return to the familiar womb of electronic entertainment and modern conveniences to sooth our psyche and give us an alternate means of escape. It sure is nice to have a climate controlled RV to return to after an afternoon of outdoor activities, whether its a place to warm up after snowmobiling or a place to cool down after some desert trail riding or just too much sun at the pool or on the lake.
When to upsize is something you have to determine based on your own situation. Certainly if your family has grown and you no longer have enough beds for everyone is one measurement. That prompted one of our first upgrades from a handy little Class B van conversion to a larger Class C bunkhouse style motorhome. When we first upgraded to Class A motorhomes, we considered the front salons an unnecessary luxury and a frivolous waste of space, but after a few long trips with 6 kids, we decided that extra space was a necessity. Today slide outs would probably be high on the list. If you find your RV too cramped for activities such as preparing and serving meals you may want to consider moving up. If you REALLY have strong feelings about some of the additional luxuries and conveniences, you will want to include those in your plans for your next RV. Regardless of the fundamental reason(s) for upgrading, there are some basic steps you will want to take to make sure your solution is a satisfactory one. First, make a list of all the features you desire and prioritize the list. Some items will be on the "must have" list, some may be "nice to have", and some may be completely optional. Check the prices on the options you want to make sure they are within your budget and to help you prioritize what you "need" most. You may decide some upgrades just aren't worth the cost. Second, check out rigs with the features you want. You may be able to find pictures and reviews on the Internet and in RV magazines. Visit RV shows and RV dealers so you can walk through some units and get an idea of what feels right and what doesn't. Collect prices as you go so you can evaluate potential deals and get the best value. If you find your perfect rig, try to contain your excitement to allow yourself to negotiate the best possible deal. Jumping up and down and chanting "I want this one!" is not going to give you much bargaining power with the seller. If you are considering previously owned rigs, be sure to either check them out or have them checked out carefully. It is way too easy to get excited about desired features, a nice paint job, and a "special price" when you find that "perfect" RV and overlook basic problems that could be inconvenient and expensive to repair. If the price is too good to be true, there is probably a good reason. Ask questions of the seller. Why is the unit being sold? How did he/she arrive at the asking price? How often and where did they use the RV? Do they have service records? Where has the unit been stored? What, if any, upgrades does it have? Has it ever been in a serious accident or had any structural damage or mechanical problems? If so, how were they resolved?
Upsizing alternatives. There all some alternatives to getting a bigger motorhome or trailer, depending on your current situation and your needs. If you have a motorhome and need more sleeping room, you might be able to purchase a small travel trailer or utility trailer to pull behind your motorhome to expand your living and/or cargo space, depending on your needs. This may a be a lot less expensive than buying a bigger motorhome and you can even rent the extra unit when you need it instead of having to buy one. Having a second RV will expand virtually all of the facilities, including beds, cooking area, bathrooms, fresh water supply and holding tank capacity. Carefully consider what additional facilities you really need. Make sure the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating and hitch rating of your motorhome is adequate to pull a trailer. If you have a trailer and need more space, a second trailer will only be an option if you live and travel only in states where you can tow multiple trailers or have a second vehicle and driver to tow the second trailer. Also make sure you will be comfortable towing two trailers. Small, older travel trailers can often be purchased at very low prices. If all you need is more cargo space, a small utility trailer or a roof pod may take care of your needs for at least a while. Another way of expanding living space in camp on an existing RV is with an "add-a-room", which essentially is a tent or awning enclosure that attaches to your RV. Sometimes, you can redesign some of your interior space to better fit your particular needs. This usually takes the form of swapping out furniture in the main living space to either increase sleeping capacity or create more floor space and make it easier to move around. More extensive modifications might redesign the gallery to make it more efficient to use and/or create additional storage or counter space. Bathrooms are often tight and difficult to improve. Many RVs have only a shower, but if you need a tub to bathe toddlers, you might be able to replace the shower pan with a suitably sized RV tub -- or just bring along a baby bath tub. If your primary need is increased sleeping capacity you may be able to install fold down bunk beds over existing sleeping and seating areas. I've seen several Class B's with cots that fit on pipe rails across the front seats. This idea can be adapted to many other types of RVs and even vans and passenger cars. More convenient, permanent (and expensive) options are beds that drop down from the ceiling. Some are even electrically operated. These are not cheap mods, but they may be a lot cheaper than buying a bigger RV! They will probably require professional installation to be sure they are properly anchored and do not compromise the structural integrity of the RV.
Downsizing to upsize. OK, how's that for a paradox? Here is what I mean. Instead of getting a bigger rig, try getting rid of some of the stuff you're carrying around all the time. Make more room by eliminating un-used or seldom used items and by making better use of the space you have. Perhaps you can move some items to an outside compartment or roof pod to make more space available inside. You might be surprised how much you can improve usability with some creative organization. Take inventory of your equipment. There may be newer, more compact versions of some of your gear and equipment that will help you lighten the load and make more room. More efficient use of existing space can make a surprisingly large difference in the livability and convenience of your RV. Because space is so limited to start with even small changes can achieve a significant percentage difference.
Parking/storage. When choosing a larger RV, be sure to consider your parking and storage requirements. You don't want to learn your new RV is too tall to fit in your RV garage by ripping the A/C off the roof when you drive in! Is it too long for the available parking space? Will it fit through access gates? If you have a steep driveway, will the overhang drag? You don't want to smash your dump valves or tail pipes or rip off the back bumper. Any problems with parking or storage should be eliminated or mitigated BEFORE you buy a bigger unit.
Move on up!
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Rightsizing
Rightsizing is a kind of new buzzword being tossed around in corporate circles and by the RV industry. It is often a polite way to disguise downsizing, which is often the case in the business world. While RV manufacturers wrestle with demands for ever more amenities, higher performance, and better fuel economy, they try to create new packages under the title rightsizing. By utilizing lighter materials and improved drive trains they have, to some extent, succeeded, but you still won't find humongous luxury motorhomes getting compact car fuel economy, though some smaller diesels are pushing 20 mpg these days, rivaling the impressive fuel economy of the 1960's Corvair powered Ultravans.
Rightsizing is perhaps an even more important concept for consumers. Buying more or less RV than you need -- or want -- is not a good value nor a good investment. The key is matching your unit to your needs -- and your budget. You might save a lot of money buying a 19' class C mini motorhome but it won't be of much real value if your family doesn't fit in it comfortably. A big luxury RV might seem desirable until you discover it doesn't fit where you have to park it, it costs a fortune for insurance and fuel, and it is too big to go some of the places you want to go.
Rightsizing might mean adding a utility trailer or a small travel trailer instead of buying a bigger motorhome. Take a look at why you need a bigger unit. If it is only to haul more "stuff", either lighten your load or get a utility trailer. If you need more beds, perhaps an inexpensive travel trailer will fill the bill without giving up the comforts and familiarity of your current motorhome. We found that our Smuggler toyhauler made a good extra bedroom for some of our boys on our dirt bike outings. Small travel trailers (or even tent trailers) are pretty inexpensive and could provide significant additional living space in camp without a large investment. A properly equipped travel trailer would also expand your other conveniences giving you more cooking space, a second bathroom, more fresh water, and additional holding tank capacity. Just make sure your motorhome has sufficient Combined Vehicle Weight Rating to handle the trailer.
Rightsizing for tent campers might mean changing the size of their tents, adding tents, or changing the number and content of the tubs of supplies they bring along. It may also be applied individually to each outing. Having the right size tent for the number of people on any given trip is going to make it more convenient and more comfortable. You don't need that big family tent for a couples outing.
Sometimes rightsizing may mean downsizing. As the kids leave home, you may not need a big bunkhouse RV or huge family tent anymore. When you retire your budget and your travel plans may change. Your interests and activities may be different. Match your equipment to your current needs, wants, and budget.
Very often rightsizing means upsizing. As you mature and your wants and/or needs or family grows, you may need a bigger RV or a bigger tent, or an extra tent or extra beds in a travel trailer to pull behind your motorhome.
Make it right!
Rightsizing is perhaps an even more important concept for consumers. Buying more or less RV than you need -- or want -- is not a good value nor a good investment. The key is matching your unit to your needs -- and your budget. You might save a lot of money buying a 19' class C mini motorhome but it won't be of much real value if your family doesn't fit in it comfortably. A big luxury RV might seem desirable until you discover it doesn't fit where you have to park it, it costs a fortune for insurance and fuel, and it is too big to go some of the places you want to go.
Rightsizing might mean adding a utility trailer or a small travel trailer instead of buying a bigger motorhome. Take a look at why you need a bigger unit. If it is only to haul more "stuff", either lighten your load or get a utility trailer. If you need more beds, perhaps an inexpensive travel trailer will fill the bill without giving up the comforts and familiarity of your current motorhome. We found that our Smuggler toyhauler made a good extra bedroom for some of our boys on our dirt bike outings. Small travel trailers (or even tent trailers) are pretty inexpensive and could provide significant additional living space in camp without a large investment. A properly equipped travel trailer would also expand your other conveniences giving you more cooking space, a second bathroom, more fresh water, and additional holding tank capacity. Just make sure your motorhome has sufficient Combined Vehicle Weight Rating to handle the trailer.
Rightsizing for tent campers might mean changing the size of their tents, adding tents, or changing the number and content of the tubs of supplies they bring along. It may also be applied individually to each outing. Having the right size tent for the number of people on any given trip is going to make it more convenient and more comfortable. You don't need that big family tent for a couples outing.
Sometimes rightsizing may mean downsizing. As the kids leave home, you may not need a big bunkhouse RV or huge family tent anymore. When you retire your budget and your travel plans may change. Your interests and activities may be different. Match your equipment to your current needs, wants, and budget.
Very often rightsizing means upsizing. As you mature and your wants and/or needs or family grows, you may need a bigger RV or a bigger tent, or an extra tent or extra beds in a travel trailer to pull behind your motorhome.
Make it right!
Downsizing
Downsizing is going from a large RV to a smaller one. Or from a large tent to a smaller one. Downsizing isn't as common as upsizing. Sometimes it makes sense but the typical path of RV and tent ownership over time is usually to larger equipment with more space, luxuries, and conveniences so the downward move is somewhat unnatural. However, there may come a time when upsizing is no longer appropriate and you may need to downsize. Now that all our kids are grown and gone they are encouraging us to downsize. I could see the practical side of it but for a long time I wasn't sure I was ready to give up the luxuries and conveniences of our 40' diesel pusher just yet. We tried a 23' Class C for a while after the kids had all left home, but we soon found it didn't fit our acquired needs. The 25 gallon fresh water tank was not enough for a long weekend in the desert for even the 2 of us, let alone when some of the kids tagged along. Downsizing your tent may make sense if you no longer need to lug around that big family tent once all the kids have grown up and left home and a smaller tent will be easier to set up and easier to keep warm in cold weather.
Why would you ever want to downsize? As your family grows up and moves out you may not need as large a facility. Changes in employment, including retirement, may reduce your disposable income. Or you may simply change the kinds of activities you participate in and the destinations you choose to frequent. Smaller units are usually more fuel efficient and can negotiate some roads and fit in some campgrounds where big motorhomes are prohibited or impractical. A smaller, more fuel efficient unit, might be better suited to retirement than a big fuel guzzler. Smaller units are also easier to drive and can go places the big ones can't. As you mature you might simply get tired of driving a behemoth RV or setting up a big heavy tent.
Our first attempt at downsizing wasn't very successful. The kids were mostly grown and gone and we figured that with just the two of us we could get by very comfortably with a 23' Class C instead of the 35' Class A we had when the kids were growing up. Several factors made it a less than perfect decision. We soon discovered that the limited water and holding tank capacities were inadequate for extended weekends in the desert, even for just two people. Our Class A had about 100 gallons of fresh water. The Class C had only 25. The second problem was that we underestimated how many of the kids would still be going with us on typical outings. A big part of why it didn't work out was we hadn't evaluated our needs and our expectations correctly. Had we done so we might been able to better adapt our behavior to the more limited resources and been able to manage the transition better. As it was, our solution was to move back up into a Class A motorhome with increased capacities and, frankly, we've never regretted it. In fact, we upsized again one more time after that.
A second downsizing occurred a few years later. This time we didn't replace our big Class A motorhome, we added a truck camper we could use for limited activities and have access to smaller campgrounds and be able to negotiate narrow mountain roads that were too tight for the motorhome. Buying the camper was also cheaper than replacing all tires on our big motorhome to meet short term camping 'needs'. This turned out to be more successful, mostly because we had adjusted our expectations and weren't trying to use the camper as full replacement for the luxury motorhome. By adjusting our activities to those appropriate to the truck camper we were able to enjoy outings not suitable for the big motorhome and we avoided the disappointment and limitations that plagued our first attempt at downsizing.
We recently faced another (involuntary) downsizing when our 40-foot Class A was damaged in an accident. It was a rare model that could not be replaced. We looked at hundreds of online ads, visited at lest a half dozen dealers, and examined more than a half dozen private party sales. Over time we developed a list of "must have" features that helped us narrow our search. We found that at least some of the luxury features on our big motorhome, while sometimes nice to have, weren't critical to our desired camping lifestyle. We settled on a much smaller, 27' Class A that still provided many of the creature comforts we had come to enjoy in our bigger unit. Downsizing required carefully choosing the items, gadgets, and supplies we could fit into the smaller unit. While a general rule for the big motorhome was "If you think you might need it, bring it along" the rule for the smaller unit is pretty much "If you aren't sure you'll need it, leave it home." For example, I had a 12 volt chain saw I'd carried in the big motorhome for years and seldom used but there isn't room for it in the "new" motorhome.
If you attempt downsizing, you should plan to make adjustments. Manage your expectations and realize you will be giving up some of the luxuries and conveniences you've become accustomed to. Alter your activities to take advantage of the smaller size. You may have access to smaller campgrounds and other remote locations you didn't have with your big unit, but you may also have to limit duration and modify your activities to match the capabilities of your smaller unit. That may mean more frequent trips to the dump station and/or bringing along extra water. And don't forget doing what you can to make your smaller unit as comfortable as possible. Explore what features the big motorhome or trailer had that you really liked. Can you add similar features to your replacement? Can you adjust your activities and/or the gear and equipment you carry to fit the smaller unit? Can you adjust your expectations and accept that not all your "wants" are needs? If, after considering all your options, you don't think you'll be happy with the smaller unit, forget it! Any changes you make are intended to improve your enjoyment, so don't do something that isn't going to make you happy.
Trial runs are a good idea if you can make it happen. Most RVs represent a significant investment so you don't want to be jumping from one to another without good reason and careful planning. If you think you want to downsize, consider renting or borrowing a unit similar to the one you're considering and take a few short trips in it. That way you'll know if you will be comfortable BEFORE you get rid of your old tried-and-true behemoth . It will probably be an expensive proposition if you downsize and then have to upsize again. It was for us.
Bigger is not always better.
Why would you ever want to downsize? As your family grows up and moves out you may not need as large a facility. Changes in employment, including retirement, may reduce your disposable income. Or you may simply change the kinds of activities you participate in and the destinations you choose to frequent. Smaller units are usually more fuel efficient and can negotiate some roads and fit in some campgrounds where big motorhomes are prohibited or impractical. A smaller, more fuel efficient unit, might be better suited to retirement than a big fuel guzzler. Smaller units are also easier to drive and can go places the big ones can't. As you mature you might simply get tired of driving a behemoth RV or setting up a big heavy tent.
Our first attempt at downsizing wasn't very successful. The kids were mostly grown and gone and we figured that with just the two of us we could get by very comfortably with a 23' Class C instead of the 35' Class A we had when the kids were growing up. Several factors made it a less than perfect decision. We soon discovered that the limited water and holding tank capacities were inadequate for extended weekends in the desert, even for just two people. Our Class A had about 100 gallons of fresh water. The Class C had only 25. The second problem was that we underestimated how many of the kids would still be going with us on typical outings. A big part of why it didn't work out was we hadn't evaluated our needs and our expectations correctly. Had we done so we might been able to better adapt our behavior to the more limited resources and been able to manage the transition better. As it was, our solution was to move back up into a Class A motorhome with increased capacities and, frankly, we've never regretted it. In fact, we upsized again one more time after that.
A second downsizing occurred a few years later. This time we didn't replace our big Class A motorhome, we added a truck camper we could use for limited activities and have access to smaller campgrounds and be able to negotiate narrow mountain roads that were too tight for the motorhome. Buying the camper was also cheaper than replacing all tires on our big motorhome to meet short term camping 'needs'. This turned out to be more successful, mostly because we had adjusted our expectations and weren't trying to use the camper as full replacement for the luxury motorhome. By adjusting our activities to those appropriate to the truck camper we were able to enjoy outings not suitable for the big motorhome and we avoided the disappointment and limitations that plagued our first attempt at downsizing.
We recently faced another (involuntary) downsizing when our 40-foot Class A was damaged in an accident. It was a rare model that could not be replaced. We looked at hundreds of online ads, visited at lest a half dozen dealers, and examined more than a half dozen private party sales. Over time we developed a list of "must have" features that helped us narrow our search. We found that at least some of the luxury features on our big motorhome, while sometimes nice to have, weren't critical to our desired camping lifestyle. We settled on a much smaller, 27' Class A that still provided many of the creature comforts we had come to enjoy in our bigger unit. Downsizing required carefully choosing the items, gadgets, and supplies we could fit into the smaller unit. While a general rule for the big motorhome was "If you think you might need it, bring it along" the rule for the smaller unit is pretty much "If you aren't sure you'll need it, leave it home." For example, I had a 12 volt chain saw I'd carried in the big motorhome for years and seldom used but there isn't room for it in the "new" motorhome.
If you attempt downsizing, you should plan to make adjustments. Manage your expectations and realize you will be giving up some of the luxuries and conveniences you've become accustomed to. Alter your activities to take advantage of the smaller size. You may have access to smaller campgrounds and other remote locations you didn't have with your big unit, but you may also have to limit duration and modify your activities to match the capabilities of your smaller unit. That may mean more frequent trips to the dump station and/or bringing along extra water. And don't forget doing what you can to make your smaller unit as comfortable as possible. Explore what features the big motorhome or trailer had that you really liked. Can you add similar features to your replacement? Can you adjust your activities and/or the gear and equipment you carry to fit the smaller unit? Can you adjust your expectations and accept that not all your "wants" are needs? If, after considering all your options, you don't think you'll be happy with the smaller unit, forget it! Any changes you make are intended to improve your enjoyment, so don't do something that isn't going to make you happy.
Trial runs are a good idea if you can make it happen. Most RVs represent a significant investment so you don't want to be jumping from one to another without good reason and careful planning. If you think you want to downsize, consider renting or borrowing a unit similar to the one you're considering and take a few short trips in it. That way you'll know if you will be comfortable BEFORE you get rid of your old tried-and-true behemoth . It will probably be an expensive proposition if you downsize and then have to upsize again. It was for us.
Bigger is not always better.
Friday, August 5, 2011
Best and Worst Camping Experiences
How do you define your best camping experience? You can't really set a particular set of criteria to evaluate your outings. Each one has its own special features and memories. Even outings where things went wrong may qualify among your best experiences while some that were "perfect" may get left behind because they weren't particularly memorable. Some that were particularly difficult may one day be remembered as "adventures". Almost never is it considered an adventure when its happening!
Since we're an avid dirt-biking family, it is no surprise that our best outings were dirt-bike outings. The trips up Nine Mile Canyon (a driving adventure in itself) to Troy Meadows, have to be among our top favorites. So, what gives them such status? Well, getting up Nine Mile Canyon is an accomplishment in itself, especially driving a motorhome towing an enclosed dirt bike trailer. Nine Mile Canyon is essentially a single-lane dirt logging road cut into a steep hill side. There are many times when your left front wheel is right on the outer edge and you can't see ground out the driver's window for about 1200' down the canyon. In the meantime, the right hand side of your motorhome and/or trailer is scraping the rocks on the uphill cut. Now imagine meeting a logging truck coming down that road! It was always a relief to reach the summit and the paved two-lane roads at the top safely. Another major factor in giving these outings high marks is the quality of the campground. It is nestled among giant Sequoia trees, which provide shade and create a very serene environment. The trails in the Sequoia National Forest were a real delight to ride, especially in their original pristine state before environmental closures shut down looping trails, forcing riders to back-track. This doubled the traffic on the remaining trails and created two-way routes that turned pristine single-track trails into two-lane trails resembling fire roads. The excess traffic soon had the trails whooped out and dusty or muddy. The summer weather was usually very pleasant, with warm days and cool nights that made for comfortable riding in the day and perfect campfire activities in the evening. Another major factor was the company of fellow riders who were among our best friends. The trails themselves were picturesque and generally offered just enough technical difficulty to be interesting without being downright scary or dangerous. Of course for the hard core enthusiasts there was something called Machinery Creek that required lowering and raising the bikes with ropes to get past some of the obstacles. Some other good memories include trips to the Mojave Desert. Riding a route called The Trail of Tears to the Husky Monument comes immediately to mind. The Husky Monument is an old Husky dirt bike set in concrete out in the middle of nowhere. It was placed there by friends of a fallen desert racer who wanted his ashes spread in the desert he loved. Since then dozens of additional plaques and small monuments have been added honoring other riders. There is no telling how many funeral urns have been emptied there. Several of my riding buddies have expressed their desire for that to be their final resting place.
Another favorite area for us was Searles Station near Randsburg in the Mojave Desert. It is a large open camping area within the Spangler Hills Off Highway Vehicle Area. OHV opportunities abound, with sand washes, hill climbs, roller-coaster hills, and open desert. There is enough room for our annual "Turkey In the Dirt" outings at Thanksgiving. W e attracted up to 175 people our peak year. There is enough space that OHV traffic on the trails isn't too bad, even on busy holiday weekends, even though the collection of motorhomes and trailers made the desert look like a sprawling city. While we go camping to get away, it is also close enough to the little historic mining town of Randsburg to ride into town for lunch one day or a little further into Ridgecrest for supplies.
The worst day camping does beat the best day working!
Since we're an avid dirt-biking family, it is no surprise that our best outings were dirt-bike outings. The trips up Nine Mile Canyon (a driving adventure in itself) to Troy Meadows, have to be among our top favorites. So, what gives them such status? Well, getting up Nine Mile Canyon is an accomplishment in itself, especially driving a motorhome towing an enclosed dirt bike trailer. Nine Mile Canyon is essentially a single-lane dirt logging road cut into a steep hill side. There are many times when your left front wheel is right on the outer edge and you can't see ground out the driver's window for about 1200' down the canyon. In the meantime, the right hand side of your motorhome and/or trailer is scraping the rocks on the uphill cut. Now imagine meeting a logging truck coming down that road! It was always a relief to reach the summit and the paved two-lane roads at the top safely. Another major factor in giving these outings high marks is the quality of the campground. It is nestled among giant Sequoia trees, which provide shade and create a very serene environment. The trails in the Sequoia National Forest were a real delight to ride, especially in their original pristine state before environmental closures shut down looping trails, forcing riders to back-track. This doubled the traffic on the remaining trails and created two-way routes that turned pristine single-track trails into two-lane trails resembling fire roads. The excess traffic soon had the trails whooped out and dusty or muddy. The summer weather was usually very pleasant, with warm days and cool nights that made for comfortable riding in the day and perfect campfire activities in the evening. Another major factor was the company of fellow riders who were among our best friends. The trails themselves were picturesque and generally offered just enough technical difficulty to be interesting without being downright scary or dangerous. Of course for the hard core enthusiasts there was something called Machinery Creek that required lowering and raising the bikes with ropes to get past some of the obstacles. Some other good memories include trips to the Mojave Desert. Riding a route called The Trail of Tears to the Husky Monument comes immediately to mind. The Husky Monument is an old Husky dirt bike set in concrete out in the middle of nowhere. It was placed there by friends of a fallen desert racer who wanted his ashes spread in the desert he loved. Since then dozens of additional plaques and small monuments have been added honoring other riders. There is no telling how many funeral urns have been emptied there. Several of my riding buddies have expressed their desire for that to be their final resting place.
Another favorite area for us was Searles Station near Randsburg in the Mojave Desert. It is a large open camping area within the Spangler Hills Off Highway Vehicle Area. OHV opportunities abound, with sand washes, hill climbs, roller-coaster hills, and open desert. There is enough room for our annual "Turkey In the Dirt" outings at Thanksgiving. W e attracted up to 175 people our peak year. There is enough space that OHV traffic on the trails isn't too bad, even on busy holiday weekends, even though the collection of motorhomes and trailers made the desert look like a sprawling city. While we go camping to get away, it is also close enough to the little historic mining town of Randsburg to ride into town for lunch one day or a little further into Ridgecrest for supplies.
Worst camping experiences are actually a little harder to define, believe it or not. I've seen a bumper sticker that says "The worst day fishing beats the best day working" and that definitely applies equally well to camping and OHVing. Pretty much the worst day camping does beat the best day working. I can recall specific incidents that were less than happy at the time -- like having a hitch break and drop our trailer in the middle of the road as we were preparing to go home. But all in all, that was still a pretty good outing -- up 'til then. And it was a recoverable problem. Guess I sound a little like the optimist who falls off a 30 story building. As he passes the 15th floor someone shouts out a window "How's it going?" The optimist replies "So far, so good!" We've had times when one or more of our family were injured and we have made more than one trip to the emergency room, but even those weekends wouldn't qualify for being listed among "worst" experiences. We have had some "less successful" outings, like the time I left the keys for our dual-sport bike at home and we had to tear apart the ignition switch and hot-wire it. I think that may have been the same trip that I brought lots of canned foods but no can opener. Both of those circumstances were frustrating and inconvenient, but overall, the weekend was still quite enjoyable. And, if nothing else, we learned some valuable lessons and it makes for a good story today. We've had our share of flat tires and other equipment failures, but for the most part those are just minor inconveniences and not enough to put a whole outing in the "worst" category. I've witnessed situations that may qualify for a "worst" outing for the individuals involved (and their families). One young man went over the bars of his dirt bike hard enough that he was knocked out and when we got to him he was twitching as if he'd had an epileptic seizure. That one was scary, but ultimately he was OK. The teen age son of one of my riding buddies road down into a steep ravine. When he hit bottom, it was too sharp of an angle and his front wheel stopped suddenly instead of going up the other side. The young man snapped both wrists. I've seen an adult do the same thing and have helped splint broken bones on more than one injured rider for transport to the emergency room. That is one reason I carry a big first aid kit and maintain my first aid and CPR certifications. I broke a collar bone on one dirt-bike outing, but I still don't consider even that enough to put the whole outing into the "worst" category, even though it was quite uncomfortable (down right painful actually!) and somewhat challenging driving a big class A motorhome pulling a dirt bike trailer home with a broken collar bone. I had little choice. My only companions, my son and my nephew, were too young to drive. Other adults on the same outing had their own vehicles to get home.
The worst day camping does beat the best day working!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Truck and SUV Tents
Truck tents are an interesting variation of tent camping. You need a pickup truck and a special tent designed to fit in the bed of the truck. Truck tents get you up off the ground so they have advantages over ordinary tents in putting you on a flat surface and, when properly installed, in keeping you up out of any rain runoff that can get under a regular tent. Having a mostly flat surface without rocks and sticks is usually more comfortable than sleeping on the ground, even with the ribs that most pickup beds have. Truck tents are usually made of light weight nylon and held up by springy fiberglass poles like a dome tent. The top part usually extends over the edge of the bed so rain runs off onto the ground, keeping the bed dry under the tent. They are especially advantageous if you are camping in an area where you might encounter poisonous snakes, insects, or other unwelcome critters on the ground. Other aspects of truck tent camping are pretty much the same as for regular tent camping. You'll need to set up your camp kitchen etc the same way. However, you will want to avoid using the tailgate as a food preparation and cooking area because of the proximity to the tent fabric. Even if you don't catch your tent on fire, smoke and cooking odors may contaminate your tent and even permanently damage the fabric. Bacon smells good when its cooking, but is won't smell so good coming from your tent fabric as you try to sleep the next night and you probably won't want to live with the residue in your tent fabric as it ages. Rancid cooking odors are NOT a culinary delight.
Why not just set up an ordinary tent in the back of your truck? You might be able to get away with this using a self-supporting style tent if it will fit inside the truck bed and you can figure out a way to secure it. Truck tents are designed specifically to fit the bed of a pickup truck. They usually have straps that run down the outside of the bed and hook underneath to secure the tent in place. The top part of the tent slightly overlaps the bed rails with the lower part slightly recessed so if it rains the rain runs off onto the ground instead of into the bed and under the tent. The bottom part is narrower, to fit inside the bed and between or sometimes over the fender wells. Truck tents are available in sizes to fit most standard bed sizes. Make sure you buy the right size for your truck. A tent that is too large or too small for your truck will be difficult to use and will lose many of the advantages of using a truck tent. We have used truck tents successfully in full-size, long-bed trucks and in short-bed mini trucks. As long as you get the right tent for your truck you'll be fine. If you're more than 6' tall you'll need to bend your knees to lie down in any short-bed truck.
Truck tents may fare better in bad weather than ordinary tents. Being up off the ground keeps them away from ground water. Properly designed truck tents will have sides that come down over the sides of the truck bed so rain runs off to the ground instead of under the tent. The metal sides of the bed add protection against wind and the way the tent is anchored to the truck makes it more stable in wind than ordinary tents. Having that metal bed around the lower part of your tent can minimize the way the wind sucks the heat out of your tent. As mentioned before, it also keeps you up out of the reach of crawling insects and other critters that you might not want to share your tent with. The ribbed metal or wooden floor of the bed won't be soft as grass or sand, but is flat and it will provide even support for your sleeping pad or air mattress and, unless you leave gravel or debris in the bed you won't be sleeping on a randomly bumpy surface. If you level your vehicle you will have a level surface to sleep on instead of rolling over or sliding down like sometimes happens in ordinary tents set up on uneven ground. I've waked up in the morning and found myself almost entirely outside the tent when the ground sloped. NEVER sleep with your head downhill! Stomach acid will run back up into your mouth during the night and it isn't pleasant!
SUV tents are kind of like an "add-a-room" for your SUV. They may attach to the side or to the rear of the vehicle. The expectation is that you will sleep in the back of the SUV and will use the attached tent as expanded, stand-up dressing area, sitting area, and living space. You will usually use the back of your SUV for sleeping. If your family or group is too large to all sleep in the SUV some people can certainly sleep in the attached tent. Sleeping in the back of your SUV gives you a nice flat, often carpeted surface to roll out your sleeping bags. You have solid steel and glass all around you to protect you from the elements and animals. If it gets too cold you might run the engine and heater for a while to take the chill off. Make sure the exhaust pipe is clear so it won't melt or ignite the tent fabric or send fatal fumes into the tent or SUV. SUV tents are usually less susceptible to wind than ordinary tents for a couple of reasons. First of all, they are attached to a heavy vehicle which increases stability and secondly, the vehicle usually provides some protection from the wind if it is oriented with the tent on the downwind side. Keep that in mind when parking your SUV in camp. Many designs include straps to attach the tent to the roof rack or to the top of the doors, providing high anchor points not found in normal tents and increasing stability. The normal interior lights of your SUV can be used at night to illuminate the part of the tent adjacent to the SUV and in the SUV for bedtime preparations. Just be judicious about the use so you don't run down your battery. Curtains or some kind of shades on the SUV windows will help control both light and temperature and add a degree of privacy most people will appreciate. SUV tents are often designed for a specific make and model so take care when purchasing one to be sure it will fit your vehicle.
Roof top tents can be used on just about any car, truck, SUV, or trailer. See Roof Top Tents for some examples. Roof top tents get you up off the cold ground and out of the reach of most animals or other pests (except the 2-legged variety). You usually need a ladder to get in and out of them. Some are designed to fit on existing roof racks; some can be adapted to ordinary sedans. Be sure to get the right configuration for your vehicle. There are many accessories available to enhance their use, including winter covers and ground floor dressing rooms. Roof top tents can range from under a couple hundred bucks to more than $2000, depending on size, features, and quality, so be sure to shop around if you're interested in getting one. I've seen them on Amazon and even on ebay and craigslist. Be sure the one you buy is designed to fit your vehicle.
You can use a truck tent just about anywhere since it doesn't take up any extra room. Because SUV tents attach to the side or rear of the vehicle you will have to consider that when parking your SUV. Make sure there will be room for your tent. Watch out for trees, bushes, poles, and rocks or other markers that designate your parking area that might interfere with your SUV tent.
Get off the ground!
Why not just set up an ordinary tent in the back of your truck? You might be able to get away with this using a self-supporting style tent if it will fit inside the truck bed and you can figure out a way to secure it. Truck tents are designed specifically to fit the bed of a pickup truck. They usually have straps that run down the outside of the bed and hook underneath to secure the tent in place. The top part of the tent slightly overlaps the bed rails with the lower part slightly recessed so if it rains the rain runs off onto the ground instead of into the bed and under the tent. The bottom part is narrower, to fit inside the bed and between or sometimes over the fender wells. Truck tents are available in sizes to fit most standard bed sizes. Make sure you buy the right size for your truck. A tent that is too large or too small for your truck will be difficult to use and will lose many of the advantages of using a truck tent. We have used truck tents successfully in full-size, long-bed trucks and in short-bed mini trucks. As long as you get the right tent for your truck you'll be fine. If you're more than 6' tall you'll need to bend your knees to lie down in any short-bed truck.
Truck tents may fare better in bad weather than ordinary tents. Being up off the ground keeps them away from ground water. Properly designed truck tents will have sides that come down over the sides of the truck bed so rain runs off to the ground instead of under the tent. The metal sides of the bed add protection against wind and the way the tent is anchored to the truck makes it more stable in wind than ordinary tents. Having that metal bed around the lower part of your tent can minimize the way the wind sucks the heat out of your tent. As mentioned before, it also keeps you up out of the reach of crawling insects and other critters that you might not want to share your tent with. The ribbed metal or wooden floor of the bed won't be soft as grass or sand, but is flat and it will provide even support for your sleeping pad or air mattress and, unless you leave gravel or debris in the bed you won't be sleeping on a randomly bumpy surface. If you level your vehicle you will have a level surface to sleep on instead of rolling over or sliding down like sometimes happens in ordinary tents set up on uneven ground. I've waked up in the morning and found myself almost entirely outside the tent when the ground sloped. NEVER sleep with your head downhill! Stomach acid will run back up into your mouth during the night and it isn't pleasant!
SUV tents are kind of like an "add-a-room" for your SUV. They may attach to the side or to the rear of the vehicle. The expectation is that you will sleep in the back of the SUV and will use the attached tent as expanded, stand-up dressing area, sitting area, and living space. You will usually use the back of your SUV for sleeping. If your family or group is too large to all sleep in the SUV some people can certainly sleep in the attached tent. Sleeping in the back of your SUV gives you a nice flat, often carpeted surface to roll out your sleeping bags. You have solid steel and glass all around you to protect you from the elements and animals. If it gets too cold you might run the engine and heater for a while to take the chill off. Make sure the exhaust pipe is clear so it won't melt or ignite the tent fabric or send fatal fumes into the tent or SUV. SUV tents are usually less susceptible to wind than ordinary tents for a couple of reasons. First of all, they are attached to a heavy vehicle which increases stability and secondly, the vehicle usually provides some protection from the wind if it is oriented with the tent on the downwind side. Keep that in mind when parking your SUV in camp. Many designs include straps to attach the tent to the roof rack or to the top of the doors, providing high anchor points not found in normal tents and increasing stability. The normal interior lights of your SUV can be used at night to illuminate the part of the tent adjacent to the SUV and in the SUV for bedtime preparations. Just be judicious about the use so you don't run down your battery. Curtains or some kind of shades on the SUV windows will help control both light and temperature and add a degree of privacy most people will appreciate. SUV tents are often designed for a specific make and model so take care when purchasing one to be sure it will fit your vehicle.
Roof top tents can be used on just about any car, truck, SUV, or trailer. See Roof Top Tents for some examples. Roof top tents get you up off the cold ground and out of the reach of most animals or other pests (except the 2-legged variety). You usually need a ladder to get in and out of them. Some are designed to fit on existing roof racks; some can be adapted to ordinary sedans. Be sure to get the right configuration for your vehicle. There are many accessories available to enhance their use, including winter covers and ground floor dressing rooms. Roof top tents can range from under a couple hundred bucks to more than $2000, depending on size, features, and quality, so be sure to shop around if you're interested in getting one. I've seen them on Amazon and even on ebay and craigslist. Be sure the one you buy is designed to fit your vehicle.
You can use a truck tent just about anywhere since it doesn't take up any extra room. Because SUV tents attach to the side or rear of the vehicle you will have to consider that when parking your SUV. Make sure there will be room for your tent. Watch out for trees, bushes, poles, and rocks or other markers that designate your parking area that might interfere with your SUV tent.
Get off the ground!
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