Staying Warm and Cozy

Staying warm usually isn't as much of a problem when camping as keeping cool is, since we tend to go camping mostly in fair weather.  But a sudden summer storm may cause temperatures to drop and even normal night time temperatures in many areas can be quite cool. I've seen overnight temperatures in the desert in the 40's after 100+ temperatures in the afternoon. And, some people even go camping in winter!  Its usually easier for us to add warm clothing or gather 'round a campfire than it is to find ways to keep cool.  You can always put on another sweater or coat when it gets cold but there is only so much you can take off when it gets hot!  Early spring or late fall outings can often bring us into cooler weather where we may have to make adaptations to our usual dress and behavior to stay comfortable.

Staying warm in an RV is usually just a matter of setting the thermostat or turning on the furnace.  If you want to conserve battery power and propane at night you might shut off the furnace and then you'll need warm bedding. Blankets, a comforter, or warm sleeping bags are good ways to stay warm in bed. Some folks like to "over heat" their rigs a little before bedtime to keep it warmer longer when they retire, then turn the furnace off at night. Not sure that there is any real savings in propane or battery power by doing that. And, if you're like me, you may find it hard to get to sleep if it is too hot.  My preference is to set the thermostat at a comfortable level and be comfortable all night.  If I wanted to freeze at night I could sleep in a tent or outside under the stars. Keep windows and vents closed and limit opening doors to reduce heat loss.  Window coverings will also help prevent loss of heat.  Most RVs have only single pane glass, which is a pretty good conductor of heat, allowing valuable heat to escape.  Curtains and drapes or shades will help, but using a sheet of bubble foam insulation in the window gives even more protection.  You might even install "storm windows" on your RV using plastic kits designed for home use.  Stretch them over the outside of the window frame and shrink to fit using a heat gun or hair dryer.  You'll be surprised how much keeping the drapes closed and using foam inserts will contribute to retaining heat.  During the day you can wear a sweater or sweatshirt to stay warm without over taxing your furnace or propane supply.  Hard surface floors can be cold to walk on and may allow heat to escape.  A runner or throw rug will help mitigate these problems.  Of course just wearing slippers will keep your feet from getting cold, but they won't reduce heat transfer through the floor and help keep your rig warm like a rug will.  If all or at least most of the floors are carpeted, you're already covered (pun intended).

If you're camping in an RV in freezing weather you'll have to keep critical parts of the RV water systems warm in addition to keeping the people inside comfortable.  Exposed plumbing may freeze and break so it must be protected, either using antifreeze in the system or by keep it warm using heaters.  There are specially designed heating pads to keep holding tanks warm.  The better ones can operate on either 120-volt or 12-volt power sources.  If you're connected to a faucet in a campground you'll also need a heated water hose.  You can buy water hoses with built in heaters or wrap your regular potable water hose with heat tape.  Placing a 100-watt bulb inside the relevant compartments of RVs with enclosed holding tanks and dump valves will usually be enough to prevent freezing, but exposed hosed, tanks, and valves will need special attention.

Staying warm in a tent usually means having the right sleeping bag or blankets for the temperature for sleeping. If your bag isn't warm enough you can supplement it with liners, covers, blankets or comforters.  If you expect to be camping in cold weather, consider getting a 4-season tent.  A double wall tent (i.e., a tent with a rain fly) or covering your tent with a tarp may provide some additional insulation and better heat retention.  Staying warm in a tent during waking hours may require a tent heater and/or extra clothing. Tent heaters are usually some form of catalytic heater that gives off few if any toxic fumes, but they will all consume oxygen. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper ventilation to avoid suffocation! A Coleman lantern (white gas or propane) gives off quite a bit of heat and often is enough to warm a small tent. But these also consume oxygen so maintain adequate ventilation when using them and keep them away from flammable materials.. Body heat is sometimes enough to warm a tent in milder cool temperatures. You'd be surprised how much heat several human bodies will generate when confined in a small space like a tent. With 20 people in my living room during a cold Utah winter it got so warm we had to open the windows -- without any fire in the fire place or turning on any heat.  Each person puts out about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent bulb.  Body heat will probably not be enough in really cold or freezing temperatures in even the warmest tent or best insulated RV.

Wood burning tent stoves are an option for some larger tents. They must be properly installed and vented. You normally need a heat resistant platform on which to set them and a fireproof way to vent the stove pipe through the roof. Using a gasoline or propane camp stove in a tent is usually a very bad idea!  Even the cute little catalytic tent heaters will consume oxygen, so be sure provide adequate ventilation in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions to avoid suffocation.  Lacking proper documentation, leave windows on opposite sides open about 1" to ensure adequate air flow.

Staying warm usually means staying dry. Heat loss through wet clothes is something like 25 times as fast as through dry clothes. If you've been caught in the rain or have melting snow on your clothes, change into dry clothes as soon as possible. You will be warmer wrapped in a dry blanket than wearing a damp heavy winter coat. If you become severely chilled (hypothermic) you may need to enlist the aid of a companion to help you get warm. Sharing a blanket or sleeping bag will help you warm up. Make sure neither of you is wearing any wet clothing.  And, yes, skin-to-skin is best, if modesty doesn't get in the way.  One very effective technique for warming a badly chilled person is fondly nicknamed "The Burritto".  Get your victim out of any wet clothing and wrap them in multiple layers of warm dry blankets, coats, or sleeping bags.  They'll usually be scrambling to get out of some of the layers within 15-20 minutes as they warm up.  For severely chilled victims, wrap them up with a warm companion.

Staying warm outside requires dressing appropriately for the weather. Dressing in layers is the best approach. It provides more efficient insulation and gives you more options for adjusting your clothing as either the outside temperature or your body temperature changes. Having a water proof or at least water resistant outer "shell" is a must for wet weather. It may be needed even in snow since melting snow can penetrate some otherwise warm coats or snow suits rather quickly.  For dirt biking, we chose "Windchill" jerseys and gloves and wore long johns under our riding pants.  It is also surprising how much protection you get from a thin nylon face mask.  I found one frustration with face masks.  If I covered my nose to keep it warm, my breath would fog my goggles so to see where I was going I often had to live with a cold nose.

Exercise is one way of warming up your body. Henry Ford allegdedly said "Cutting your own wood warms you twice." If you don't have any productive physical activities to warm you up you can do calisthenics or go for a run or walk. However, don't work up too much of a sweat as that will just make you colder! Les Stroud (Survivorman) warns against doing too much work in cold weather because sweating will cause you to lose necessary body heat.

Campfires are another way of keeping warm outdoors. You don't necessarily need a large fire to keep warm. "White man build big fire, stand way back; Indian build small fire, get up close." Another trick is to build more than one fire if you are having trouble keeping warm. Having one big fire will only keep one side of you warm at a time. You usually end up too warm on the side toward the fire and freezing on the other side.  Build two small fires and stand between them -- or build a ring of small fires and stand in the middle -- to warm you all around. Another useful tip is to build a fire where the heat will be reflected back toward you, like building it against a large rock, an embankment, a wall, a snowbank or even building your own "reflector" out of logs.  That way you can take advantage of more of the heat of the fire instead of having a lot of it escape in the wrong direction.  The reflection technique is also good for helping to heat a shelter using an outside fire. Build the fire safely outside the entrance to the shelter with a reflector on the opposite side of the fire from the entrance. I have some devices called "Back Reflectors" that attach to the back of a folding camp chair and extend down underneath toward the front.  The idea is that they reflect heat from the campfire up your back.  If nothing else, the plastic sheeting itself blocks the wind so your backside stays a little warmer.  I'm glad I bought mine when I did because I've never seen them again since.  You could probably make your own from Reflectix foam reflective insulation or even windshield sun screens.  Sometimes you can buy silver colored windshield screens at your local dollar store, making it a pretty cheap experiment if you want to try it out.

Body heat is another way of staying warm if you can keep it from escaping.  4-season tents and winter sleeping bags are one good way to preserve it.  If you have enough people you might be able to keep the inside of an RV warm too.  The human body is said to produce about the same heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb.   I've never measured it but I remember one cold December in Utah when we had 20 people in our living room and even without the heat on or any fire in the fireplace, it got so warm we had to open some windows -- and it was in the teens outside!

Warm up!

Keeping Your Cool in Camp

Since a lot of our outdoor recreational activities take place during the summer time, keeping cool is often a problem faced by campers and RVers. Of course, if you're camping in a motorhome or trailer equipped with air conditioning, it becomes a lot easier. But, if you don't have an air conditioned RV or simply don't want to be cooped up inside or don't have shore power or can't run your generator to power the A/C, staying cool and comfortable outside becomes a priority.

Dress right to stay cooler.   When its cold you can add layers to help stay warmer, but, let's face it, there's only so much you can take off when its too warm, even in a "clothes optional" environment.  In fact, sometimes more is less.  Dressing in loose fitting long sleeved shirts and long pants will usually be cooler than shorts and tank tops.  Consider the style of clothing worn by nomadic desert tribes like the Bedouins.  They wear loose-fitting robes that cover their entire bodies.  Loose fitting clothing protects you from direct sunlight while allowing perspiration to evaporate to cool your skin.  Its kind of like wearing your own shade.  A big, broad brimmed hat will also help protect  you from the heat of the sun.  Skimpy clothing is an asset when you're in the water, but when you're not, it just exposes more of your skin to the heat and harmful UV rays from the sun.

If you are fortunate enough to have an RV with air conditioning and the power to operate it (either shore power or an on board generator) you can stay cool in your RV.  Many large RVs have multiple roof-mounted air conditioning units. These can usually be run at the same time when using the generator but often can only be run one at a time when connected to 30-amp shore power. That is because the combined power demand of two A/Cs exceeds the capacity of the 30-amp service. In this case, there will usually be a switch that lets you select which A/C to run. Some of the fancier units have devices that automatically switch between the two air conditioners. Alternate running each one to distribute wear and tear and to keep both ends of the RV cool.  Large RVs with 50 amp service can usually handle running both A/Cs at the same time.  When you are boondocking, you won't be able to run your A/Cs all night. Running the generator at night may disturb other nearby campers and can subject you and your family to carbon monoxide poisoning if the exhaust seeps into your coach. Carbon monoxide is odorless so you can easily slip into a sleep you'll never wake from without any warning!  Running your A/C at night in a campground, even on shore power, may disturb other campers.   Keep your A/C in good condition. Clean and straighten the cooling fins on the roof and clean the filters inside. Start running your A/C before is gets hot inside. It is easier for the A/C to maintain a comfortable temperature than it is is to cool down a hot environment.  Always allow at least 5-10 minutes after an air conditioner has been running and is shut off to switch back to it or turn it back on.  Pressure builds up in the compressor and if it hasn't had time to bleed off, restarting the air conditioner  and put an extreme load on the motor and on the on board generator that may cause permanent damage.  Use reflective foam insulation panels (similar to windshield sun screens) in all the windows to keep the heat out and the cool in.  And, of course, take full advantage of drapes and curtains to help keep the heat out.  Limit opening doors and window to prevent loss of cool air inside.  Use patio and window awning (if you have them) to keep sun from shining directly through the windows.

Shade. A fundamental component of staying comfortable in hot weather is to stay in the shade. It may be natural, under trees and bushes or man-made, under roofs, canopies, awnings and umbrellas or even wearing a broad-brimmed hat. Many RVs have patio awnings that make shade easy. Bag awnings aren't quite as convenient to set up, but the result is about the same -- for significantly less cost. Permanently attached RV awnings typically run $500-$1000, more for fancy electrically operated models. Bag awnings, which temporarily attach to your RV, are in the range of $200-$300. A simple free-standing "dining fly" can often be purchased for under $20 and can keep the sun off you and your guests at the picnic table or anywhere you choose to set it up. Another type of popular stand-alone awnings are "E-Z-Ups". These have expandable aluminum frames that don't require the ropes and stakes of dining flys, but are a bit more expensive. Expect to pay $60-$100 for the smaller ones. Makeshift shades can often be created using tarps strung between trees or vehicles. In a pinch you may be able to toss a tarp or blanket across a couple of camp chairs to give yourself somewhere out of the sun to sit. Window awnings on RVs will keep direct sunlight from shining through the windows and further heating the interior while still letting you see out.

Umbrellas are not just for rain. They can also be effective as sun shades. You may recall seeing young ladies carrying parasols in old time movies to shade them from the sun. Umbrellas come in many sizes. Large patio umbrellas may be a little cumbersome to take camping, but they will provide a lot of shade, usually enough for a half dozen people to escape the sun's wrath. Smaller lawn, golf, or beach umbrellas may be easier to transport and still provide shade for several people. Another convenient adaptation are individual umbrellas with clamps that they can be attached to camp chairs so you don't have to hold them.

Misters. Mist systems can add cooling under your RV patio awning just as they can at home. To avoid burning up my primary water pump or wasting all my precious fresh water supply, I rigged a secondary pump and fed it from portable 5-gallon water jugs to feed the misters on my motorhome awning. It made afternoons in the Mojave Desert much more comfortable. Why does mist keep us cool? The main factor is evaporation. Water consumes 530 calories of heat per gram of liquid water converted to water vapor. Compare that to only 80 calories required to convert a gram of ice to liquid water.  So evaporating water removes a little over 6 1/2 times as much heat as melting ice per volume! The evaporating mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us and again when it evaporates from our skin. You can buy mist systems just about anywhere RV accessories are sold these days as well as at home centers.

Personal cooling systems. Today there are many personal cooling systems on the market. These usually consist of small water containers and a method delivering the water as mist. Some have built-in hand pumps to pressurize the container, some have battery-operated pumps. Some have their own battery powered fans.  In a pinch, or simply for convenience or to save money, you can use an ordinary spray bottle. I usually get mine at Dollar Tree.  It isn't quite as convenient or elegant as the pressurized mist systems, but you can direct the cooling spray where and when you need it. It is also very portable so you can carry it with you on hikes and have it handy for other activities. You can use a spray bottle sitting in the shade, relaxing inside your tent or RV, or even during many activities. Some of the available personal cooling systems include a battery-powered fan to move the air. Air movement speeds evaporation and makes you feel cooler quicker. The mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us. The key is evaporation. Water absorbs heat as it evaporates. It takes more calories to turn water to vapor than it does melt ice. Remember, the heat of evaporation is 530 calories/gram; melting ice only absorbs 80 calories per gram. That means converting a gram of water to water vapor absorbs more than 6.6 times as much heat as melting 1 gram of ice.

Inside your RV. Of course the ultimate way to keep your RV cool is with an air conditioner. But not all RVs have them and they require 120-volt power and can be expensive to operate. Some full hookup campgrounds charge extra if you use your air conditioner and running the generator all day while dry camping burns gas, which is getting more expensive every day. There are 12-volt evaporative coolers that work in some dry climates but not in high humidity. They're OK in desert environments, but won't work well in places like Florida or other damp climates.  If you are using one of these, be sure to keep at least one window slightly open. Just like a "swamp cooler" on your permanent home, they draw air in from the outside through a water-soaked filter, cooling the air as it enters. The stale, moist air needs someplace to go, so leave one or more windows slightly open. You can even control where the air moves to some extent by which windows you open. If you keep all the windows closed, the RV becomes pressurized and the cool air can't enter. In addition, the saturated air is stuck inside, making it very humid and uncomfortable. You will also be surprised how much cooler you will feel if you just open a roof vent and one or two windows. The hot air will rise up through the roof vent and draw (hopefully) cooler air in through the windows. Even if the outside air isn't cooler, the mere movement of air will help you feel cooler and more comfortable since air movement aids evaporation of perspiration and draws heat from you skin. Battery powered or 12-volt fans can be used to circulate air and improve comfort.  Powered roof vents are an excellent way to get rid of hot air in an RV but usually don't move enough air to create much of a breeze.  Even so, you might be surprised how much more comfortable you can be with just little bit of ventilation.

Just as you need protection from overheating, so does your RV, generator, tow vehicle, or OHV.   Make sure the cooling system on all equipment is clean and properly maintained.  Clear air flow to generator compartments is essential.  Clean air filters on all engines will reduce stress on the engines.  Many OHVs need to keep moving to get sufficient air flow through the radiator (liquid cooled) or past the cooling fins (air cooled) so avoid excessive idling.  Make sure the oil level is correct.  Low oil levels can increase friction and contribute to overheating.  Some engines may benefit from an oversize oil filter that provides extra oil to help cool the engine.  Yes, oil does contribute to cooling your engines by carrying heat away.  Finned covers for oil filters may help dissipate heat from the oil.

Staying cool in a tent. Pitch your tent where you can take advantage of natural shade when you can -- assuming it doesn't put it in danger of falling branches or wildfire. If your tent has a rain fly, make sure to use it. It will shade the top of the tent from direct sunlight and leaves space for air to move beneath it and carry away heat from the tent itself. If yours does not have a rain fly, you might try setting up a dining fly or tarp over your tent to shade it from direct sun. Open windows or doors on opposite sides of the tent to allow cross ventilation. When choosing which openings to use, take advantage of any prevailing breezes and/or nearby shade that may provide a source for cooler air. Battery powered fans can help move air to keep you more comfortable when you're in your tent.  There are few options for mechanically cooling a tent bu here is a link to how to make an inexpensive "air conditioner" for your tent: Tent Air Conditioner.

Cool slumber. Staying cool at night presents its own set of needs. If you are relying on your generator to run the A/C during the day, you need to shut it off during "quiet hours" at night. Even if you are boondocking way out in the middle of no where with no one else around, it is not a good idea to run the generator at night to keep your A/C going. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can infiltrate your RV and kill you while you sleep. All it takes is a slight shift in wind direction to blow fumes back into your coach.  I try to keep my RV cool during the day, which helps pull the heat out of furnishings so it doesn't warm up too quickly when I turn the A/C off at bedtime. Also, open a roof vent and a window or two near your bed to create a slight breeze. If that isn't enough, a 12-volt fan can move some air to help keep you cool. Usually things cool down enough at night to make sleep comfortable in an RV or in a tent and it won't draw the batteries down any more than running the furnace fan on a cold night. If you are too warm in your tent, open windows or doors on opposite sides to allow cross ventilation and sleep on top of your sleeping bag instead of inside of it. Another way to sleep cool, if the environment is suitable, is to sleep outdoors in a hammock. A hammock will need strong anchor points -- trees, posts, vehicles, or a hammock frame. You may also need a mosquito net if bugs are a problem. You might not want to sleep outside if you are in an area where bears frequently enter campsites. Bears are usually more of a problem in parks where they are frequently fed by tourists than they are in the wilderness where they will normally avoid contact with human beings.

It is a common misconception that fans cool. Fans do not cool the air. All they do is move the air so you feel cooler. Moving air speeds evaporation and carries heat away from your body so you feel cooler. A common accessory for RVs is an oscillating fun that runs on 12-volt power. There are both portable and permanently mounted versions that can make you more comfortable in warm weather. Some ceiling vents are equipped with fans to aid the ejection of hot air or to draw in cool air. Ceiling vents with fans are also helpful if you need to expel smoke or cooking odors from your RV. There are portable, battery-powered fans you can use in your tent too. In a pinch, you can use a magazine, a paper plate, or a piece of cardboard or fold a sheet of paper into a fan and wave it near your face to speed evaporation and cooling. Although fans do not cool by themselves, they are very useful for exchanging air. If it is warmer in your RV than it is outside, you can cool the inside of your RV by expelling hot air through the ceiling vent and letting cooler air enter through the windows. Even if it is no cooler outside than it is inside, the movement of air will still make you feel cooler, even though it won't cool the air in the RV. By the way, if it is colder in your RV than it is outside and you want to warm it up, open the windows and turn on the ceiling vent. If yours is equipped with a reversible fan you can use it to draw in warm air from above the RV. Taking advantage of warmer outside air can reduce the demand on your furnace, warming your RV quicker and conserving propane.

Keeping cool during summer activities like riding an OHV, horseback riding, or hiking takes some thought and creativity.  Keeping moving on your OHV or horse can keep air flowing past your body and speed evaporation of perspiration, which will help cool you.  When hiking you can try to stay in the shade as much as possible and carry a spray bottle to supplement your own perspiration to help keep you cool.  Of course dressing appropriately for the weather will also help you feel cooler.  Drink plenty of water or sports drinks to maintain your hydration and electrolyte levels.  If you loose too much of your body fluids through perspiration you will stop sweating and then your body has no way to cool itself and you will be in danger of serious heat illness.  I once tried a quilted "cooling vest" for dirt biking.  It had to be soaked with cool water and cooled by evaporation.  It seemed to provide some cooling for a short time but all too soon  I found it was just additional weight and padding under my jersey without cooling me for long.  Once it dried out, it was like wearing a thermal vest!  I have seen battery powered cooling vests that circulate coolant to carry heat away but I found them too expensive and too bulky for dirt biking.

Keep cool!

RV and Marine Battery Maintenance

Your RV batteries are crucial to the functionality of many systems in your RV or boat. You usually have two battery systems: a starting battery for the engine and one or more deep cycle "house batteries" to power your lights and appliances in the living area. Unless you are plugged into 120 volt shore power they are the primary source of power for lights, water pump, radios, control boards in appliances, and the fan for your furnace. If you run out of battery power, you may find the nights get pretty cold when your furnace stops working. It is ironic that when the battery voltage gets low, the furnace fan will not shut off. So it continues blowing cold air and further discharges the batteries. So, if you wake up in the middle of the night and the furnace is continually blowing cold air, turn it off to conserve what little charge is left in your batteries.  Be sure to check to make sure you didn't run out of propane, which can be another reason the furnace doesn't work.  And those wonderful home-like sinks, showers, and toilets that make life easy don't function at all if there is no power for the water pump.

An old rule of thumb says batteries should be replaced about every 3 years, but "your mileage may vary".   Newer battery technology seems to have extended the life of some batteries.  Lack of maintenance and abuse will significantly shorten battery life. Proper maintenance and usage can prolong it. If your batteries are three or more years older and are not delivering the performance  you expect, it may be time to replace them -- or at least take them down and get them tested.  Of course, the quality and original rating of the battery are also significant factors. So what constitutes abuse and what is proper maintenance? Abusing your batteries consists of not keeping them properly charged, frequently running them way down, letting the connections become loose or corroded, or letting the electrolyte levels fall below normal. Some batteries are promoted as "maintenance free". Gas-mat type batteries really are, but if they are wet-cell, lead-acid batteries, you still need to pry off the caps and check the electrolyte level occasionally. Most batteries have a fluid level indicator built into the fill opening and fluid should be maintained at that level. You need to more than just barely cover the plates and less than filling to the top of the opening. Typically there should always be about 1/2" of electrolyte above the plates.  Under filling will result in low electrolyte and shorten battery life. Low electrolyte exposes the plates and can lead to immediate sulfation which quickly destroys the battery. Over filling will result in excess boiling and off-gassing and may pop the filler caps off and spew acid when the battery is being charged. Add only distilled water to top off batteries. Ordinary tap water or even bottled water contains contaminants that will reduce power and shorten battery life so it should used sparingly and only in emergencies. I have seen battery additives that are advertised to prolong battery life and restore functionality. They may be worth trying if you have batteries that are in bad shape. It is a good idea to verify electrolyte levels as part of your routine pre-trip checklist and about once a month when your RV is in storage. It is a tedious task, but well worth it considering the inconvenience in camp and the cost of replacing dead batteries.

The starting battery for a motorhome or boat is usually located in or near the engine compartment.   House batteries could be located just about anywhere.  Sometimes they are also housed in the engine compartment but moreoften they are in a separate compartment, often under the entry step, dinette, or near the generator.  Some motorhomes have a dedicated starting battery for the generator.  When I had one like that I replaced the generator starting battery with an extra 12 volt deep cycle battery and wired it in parallel with the existing coach battery to give me more power for lights, furnace, etc. in camp and extra power for starting the generator.  Many motorhomes use the coach batteries for starting the generator.  When all the batteries are located under the hood it is a good idea to check to see what is connected to each battery bank.  I once bought a motorhome with all the batteries under the hood and was very surprised when I discovered the starter was connected to the coach batteries instead of the starting battery!  Trying to jump start the vehicle with jumper cables on the starting battery didn't really do much good.

Checking the status of your batteries. It is pretty obvious our batteries have run down when we can no longer start our vehicles or when the lights in our RVs are dim or the furnace won't run. Many RVs have a battery gauge that gives you some idea of the battery condition. These little gauges are essentially volt meters marked to give you an easy to read indication of the status of the batteries.  To really know the state of your batteries you need to test the actual voltage or measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery. A fully charged 12 volt battery should have a voltage around 13.6 volts. You may get a higher reading if the batteries have been recently charged (like driving the vehicle). That is what is known as a "surface charge". Charging voltage while the alternator is operating will be 14-15 volts. Higher charging voltages, like the 18 volts I discovered coming from a failing RV converter will cause the batteries to boil and eventually "fry" them. Anything below 11.6 volts is fully discharged. You need a battery hydrometer to measure specific gravity. This is a device that draws a little electrolyte out of the cells. Some hydrometers may be calibrated so you can read the specific gravity but most of the ones I've seen in auto parts stores contain a number of different colored balls. You determine the specific gravity by observing which balls are floating or counting the number of balls that are floating.   You can't check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in sealed batteries.  Avoid discharging your batteries below 80% or 10.5 volts. Doing so can permanently damage batteries. Maintain the proper electrolyte level. Most batteries have a built in indicator that makes the electrolyte form a dome when the right level is reached in the opening. If you don't see one, fill to about 1/4" below the bottom of the fill hole or about 1/2" to 3/4" above the plates. NEVER let the electrolyte level drop below the top of the plates as that contributes to fast sulfation of the exposed surfaces.  Use distilled water to replenish the electrolyte.  Ordinary tap water can be used in an emergency, but minerals in tap water contaminate the electrolyte, reducing performance and shortening battery life. I have read you can sometimes reclaim badly sulfated batteries by adding a water containing 10% magnesium sulfate (epsom salts).  It didn't work for me when I tried it, but the batteries I treid it on were in REALLY bad condition.

Never let your batteries stay discharged any longer than necessary. Batteries deteriorate faster when they are discharged and they are likely to freeze and crack in cold climates. Fully charged batteries are protected against freezing down to at least -75°F. Even a partially discharged battery will freeze at much warmer temperatures. A good multi-stage battery charger is the best way to keep your batteries properly charged in storage. The basic charger circuit on most standard 12-volt converters supplies only a constant modest voltage that does not adequately address all the functions required to keep a battery in good condition. Converters do well at their primary job: converting 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC to power 12 volt fixtures and appliances in your RV. Their battery-charging circuits don't usually perform as well. Sometimes the charging circuit -- or the circuit board that controls the charging circuit -- fails and delivers an incorrect voltage to the batteries. I once had a faulty converter that was delivering 18+ volts to the batteries. Before I discovered the cause of the problem I was having to add water to my coach batteries at least once a week and the batteries were quickly destroyed and had to be replaced. The high voltage was literally boiling the electrolyte away and cooking the batteries! I called the converter manufacturer and confirmed that the charging voltage was way out of spec. The technician suggested I disconnect the charging circuit in the converter and use an external automatic battery charger as a less expensive and more effective solution than upgrading or even repairing the charger in the converter. I did that for a while, then replaced then entire converter with an Intelli-charger converter with the Charge Wizard. The Charge Wizard senses the battery condition and adjusts the charging voltage accordingly. It even periodically supplies an appropriately high voltage to burn off sulfates that accumulate on the lead plates and can short out the cells. I've heard user reports that this configuration has actually reclaimed badly sulfated batteries. I have used the Intelli-charger and Charge Wizard in three different motorhomes over the last 10-12 years with excellent results. The setup is 2-3 times the cost of a standard converter but to me it was worth it. We were doing a lot of dry camping in remote areas and needed full battery capacity to make it through long weekends in the desert. Replacing the existing converter is a fairly simple task that can be done by most do-it-yourselfers. Take care to note the original wiring and make the new connections correctly. Many converters simply plug into a 120-volt outlet for their shore power and have a simple 2-wire connection to the coach wiring. If the old converter is wired directly into the 120-volt system, take care to connect the wires correctly. 120-volt systems usually have black wire for "hot" and a white one for neutral with a bare copper or green insulated wire for ground but verify the configuration before connecting your converter. Some converters have built-in 12-volt circuit boards with fuses and you will have to be careful about re-connecting each circuit to an appropriately sized fuse in the new panel. It is not a particularly difficult task, but is can be tedious and requires some attention to detail. Be sure to label the old wires as you disconnect them. If you have any concerns about doing it yourself, have it installed by a qualified electrician or RV technician. Maintaining connections to similarly labeled fuses is a good idea, but it is more important to make sure you match the fuse size for each circuit. Connecting to a lower amp fuse will result in blowing the fuse. Connecting to a higher amp fuse may allow the wiring to overheat before the fuse blows possibly damaging equipment or starting a fire. The fuse sizes have been chosen for important reasons, so pay attention. NEVER replace a fuse with a solid connector just to get things going. You may cause the wiring in the circuit to overheat and cause a fire. ALWAYS replace fuses with the same size and type of fuse. Some folks "solve" a problem on a circuit that frequently blows a fuse by putting in a higher amperage fuse. NOT a good idea! The higher amp fuse will allow more current to flow and may result in the wiring getting hot, shorting out, and causing a fire. If you frequently blow a fuse, you need to inspect the wiring and evaluate the load on that circuit to determine why it is blowing. Putting too many devices on one circuit or using high-amp devices on low-amp circuits can cause fuses to blow. Damaged wiring that is shorting out may be the cause and should be repaired or replaced. Sometimes the problem is on the ground connection for fixtures or appliances so be sure to check all ground wires too.

Battery connections. Another component that requires regular attention are the battery connections. There are problems that commonly occur and can be easily detected and corrected. One is loose connections. All connections, both at the battery terminals and at the other end of the cables should be tight and clean. A second problem is corrosion. The out-gassing that occurs during charging can deposit acid on the battery connections causing them to corrode. A good way to make sure your connections are clean and secure is to remove them and clean the battery posts and the terminals. You can sometimes do this with a simple wire brush, but it is easier and more effective to use a special battery terminal brush available at any auto parts store. These typically have a tapered wire brush for cleaning the inside of the terminals and a hollow, "female" brush on the other end for cleaning the battery posts. Observe the direction of the bristles on the brushes and turn them the same way they are already pointed so they drag rather than dig into the soft lead of the terminals and posts, which damages both the terminals and the brush. Use a commercial battery cleaner spray or ordinary baking soda and water to remove corrosion and neutralize the acid before reconnecting the terminals. If the terminals are severely corroded or cannot be tightened securely you should replace the cables or at least the terminals. I prefer replacing the cables since the terminals are usually molded into the cable. Replacement battery terminals are less expensive but since they are made of steel and lead, the bi-metal connection to the copper cables tend to speed corrosion. If you have a motorhome you will normally have two different battery banks: one for the engine and one for the coach. The engine battery is normally located in or near the engine compartment. The coach batteries are usually located in an exterior cabinet or underneath the entry step. Be sure to maintain ALL the batteries in good condition. If you have two or more batteries in any battery bank and one fails, you need to replace all the batteries at the same time. Older batteries, even if they appear to be in good condition, will drain new ones and reduce the overall performance and longevity. Because the charging resistance in a new battery is different than an old one they require different charging voltages and the demand of older batteries will have a negative affect on charging the new batteries. Be sure to install your new batteries correctly. If you are simply replacing a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries or a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries with similar batteries, be sure to maintain the original connections. Usually, but not always, the positive lead is red and the negative lead is black. Pay attention to the leads when you disconnect the old batteries and if they do not conform to this standard, label them to avoid any problems in reconnection them to the new batteries. Multiple 12-volt batteries must be wired in parallel -- both grounds connected to the vehicle ground, both positive terminals connected to the 12-volt feed to the coach. 6-volt golf cart batteries must be wired in series: connect one ground to the vehicle ground and the positive terminal from that battery to the negative terminal of the second battery. Then connect the positive terminal of the second battery to the 12-volt feed to the coach. Connecting them in series is how they provide 12-volt power. Converting from 2 12-volt RV batteries to 2 6-volt golf cart batteries will usually give you more power, better performance, and longer battery life than two 12-volt batteries, and it is easy to do -- if you follow the directions for connecting the 6-volt batteries in series, which means you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The connector should be at least the same gauge as the battery cables.

Increasing battery capacity. If you run out of power during dry-camping trips you many need to increase your battery capacity. The simplest way to do this is to get a bigger, more powerful battery. However, most RV deep cycle batteries are already the size of Group 27 car batteries and are already maxed out. If that is the case you'll need to add batteries. If you have a Group 24 battery and have room for a Group 27, that would be an easy and fairly inexpensive upgrade. You can also add one or more additional 12-volt deep cycle batteries, wired in parallel with the exiting battery. The best time to update your battery capacity is when you have to replace a battery. You don't want to mix batteries of different types or ages in the same battery bank. They need to be matched or else they'll drain each other or cause charging problems where some batteries are over charged and some are undercharged due to the differences in internal resistance. The best way to increase battery capacity is to use 6-volt golf cart batteries, with pairs wired in series to create 12-volts. These batteries have more capacity than 12-volt deep cycle batteries and are designed to take the heavy loads and frequent deep discharging and charging necessary to operate golf carts. A pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries will take up about the same space as a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries, but will deliver much better performance. Make sure you wire them in series. That means wiring the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other, then treating the two batteries together as if they were one big 12-volt battery. If you are upgrading from two 12-volt batteries to two 6-volt batteries, you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The original RV wiring is usually designed for the parallel connections needed when using two 12-volt batteries and would be connected with the hot to the positive terminal of one battery and the ground to the negative terminal of the other when using 6-volt batteries.

There is nothing mystical or scary about RV battery systems. A little regular and simple care will keep them in good condition and allow you to get the most out of them. But ignore them, and you will eventually reap the rewards of cold nights when the batteries get too low to run the furnace and/or the expense of replacing dead batteries before their time. If, even after good maintenance, your batteries fail to deliver sufficient power, review your charging procedures to make sure you are charging them adequately between uses. If the batteries fail to hold a charge, they will need to be replaced. If you are running a single battery to power your coach and frequently run out of power, you may have to find a place to install a second battery to meet the demands you are placing on your battery system. If there isn't room for an additional battery near the existing one, make sure the second battery is installed in a place where it is vented to the outside and connect the batteries using heavy-duty battery cable, typically "0000" gauge. You may have to go to a welding supply store to find heavy enough cable or you might find heavy duty jumper cables that will be sufficient. Smaller wiring will diminish performance and create a potential fire hazard.  12 volt DC electrical systems are safe to touch.  You won't get a shock like you do from your 120 volt household circuits but if you short out the hot wire you will get sparks or melt wires.  

Keeping your batteries charged. We usually give little thought to charging the batteries on our daily driver vehicles because driving them charges the batteries without us having to do anything special. But RVs or tow vehicles that get infrequent use need external battery charges to maintain the batteries between trips. Battery Tender is a very popular brand. You may need two separate chargers for a motorhome: one for the starting battery and a second one for the coach battery bank -- unless you buy a multi-bank charger.  I use a generic battery tender on my starting battery and take advantage of the superior charging capabilities of my Intelli-charger converter with Charge Wizard to maintain my coach battery bank. There are chargers designed to handle multiple battery banks but it is probably less expensive to just put separate chargers on each bank. I like to install my chargers so they are active whenever there is 120-volt power available in the coach -- from shore power or from the on board generator. That way I don't have to think about plugging in the charger in camp or before I store my coach between trips.  Be aware of adding chargers if there is already a charger built into the converter.  Using multiple chargers at the same time may conflict with each other and produce unpredictable and undesireable results.

Solar battery charging is a an easy and free way to keep your batteries topped off -- once you buy the solar panels and charging system.  Small chargers that will help keep fully charged batteries fully charged in storage where they're not getting heavy use are not terribly expensive.  I've see them under $20.  They are about the size of the top of a carton of eggs and about 1/2" thick.  They plug in to the cigarette lighter in your vehicle and are normally placed on the dashboard.  They are not powerful enough to recharge depleted batteries or power equipment or lights.  Large solar panels can be mounted on the roof of your RV and with enough panels and controllers can charge depleted batteries and run some 12-volt lights and appliances.  But solar systems of these size are not cheap.  Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $300 for a start up configuration.  Large solar arrays can be very helpful when boondocking and using inverter power.  And the electricity is free -- once you've re-couped the setup cost -- saving you fuel cost for running  your generator.  Solar power is especially useful on boats if you don't have 120 volt power at the dock to recharge your batteries.

You can charge batteries using your on board generator, but most experts say it is faster and more efficient to use the vehicle alternator.  Some portable generators have a 12-volt battery charging circuit built in.  I have a small, 850 watt generator that does.  It generally isn't powerful enough to run mainline 120-volt appliances but it is a pretty good alternative for emergency battery charging when boondocking.  If you can get your hands on an old Army hand-crank generator, or bicycle pedal generator, they could be used to charge batteries too.   They used to be available in Army Surplus stores, but these days they may be hard to come by.  I did find a pedal generator on Amazon.com for about $200.  You might build your own using an automobile alternator.  Use one with a built-in voltage regulator and you should be able to wire it directly to your batteries for charging.  Then you just need to rig up a crank and pulley to drive the alternator.  I've also seen plans for building your own wind powered generators using an automobile alternator, but designing and building the blades is probably beyond the time and effort most of us are willing and able to invest in such a project. Plus transporting the blades and tower and setup in camp is cumbersome and wind is unpredictable.

Proper battery maintenance will ensure you get best possible performance and longevity from your RV batteries.

Charge!

Outdoor Cooking Options

One of the fun things about camping is not being a slave to the stove and oven to prepare your meals. Outdoor cooking can be fun and exciting. Sometimes preparing meals that are routine at home can be a fun and stimulating adventure in camp. My wife and daughter-in-law were giddy as two school girls as they prepared breakfast on our trusty Coleman stove when we went tent camping a while back.  And they weren't experimenting with new dishes, just regular breakfast favorites.  But cooking outdoors, in camp, together, made it special.  There are many options for outdoor cooking, depending on where you are (open fires are prohibited in some places  and at some times) and how adventurous you want to be. Successfully making your favorite repast in the outdoors yields a special feeling of accomplishment. Heck, even being able to pull it off within the limitations of an RV rates a pat on the back. Outdoor cooking skills can be very useful in an emergency situation at home, such as an extended power outage or natural disaster. Ever think about what you will do if a disaster knocks out utilities in your neighborhood for a couple of weeks? If you have been using your camping trips to practice survival skills, you will at least be able to build a fire to warm you and your family, cook your meals, dry your clothing and bedding, and sterilize water for drinking and medical uses. You may purchase portable stoves for emergency use, but unless you've practiced using them, they are likely to be useless or even dangerous in a disaster situation. There is an old adage that I've found to be true:  If it hasn't been tested, it doesn't work!  Be sure you know how to use any emergency equipment you purchase and take time to practice using it. Also make sure you have proper fuel that is safely stored.

Campfire cooking. Of course cooking over an open campfire is the most basic form of outdoor cooking. Most all of us have roasted a few hot dogs and set a few marshmallows on fire this way (in my experience one seldom roasts marshmallows without turning them into torches).  One of the advantages to campfire cooking is that you don't need a lot of fancy equipment and, unless open fires are prohibited, you can build a campfire just about anywhere. Campfire cooking is also a good skill to develop for use following a disaster that may leave you without utilities at home. You may want to practice building a campfire and cooking in your own back yard until you're comfortable with the skills. Check out my previous post on Campfire Safety for more ideas on safely building and using campfires. As mentioned above, campfires are also sources of warmth and comfort and can help us dry out wet clothing and bedding. Having dry clothing and bedding could mean not only being more comfortable, but could literally mean the difference between life and death in a survival situation! It is possible to get hypothermia from wet clothing even in fairly mild weather.  The light and heat of a campfire not only warms the body, it warms the soul and lifts the spirits. As human beings, we find comfort in warmth and light and are often mesmerized by flames. Just sitting around a campfire can be entertaining and can lift depressed spirits enough to be functional again. Cooking over a campfire can be done by putting food on sticks (like hot dogs, chunks of meat, or even thick dough to make bread). For more conventional options, put a grid or grill over the fire and cook in regular pans. Lacking a grill you can position a couple of green logs over the coals or build a fire between them and rest your pans across them.  It is convenient to put the logs about 3" apart at one end and 8-10" apart at the other.  Then you can put your coffee pot or tea kettle on the narrow end and your frying pan on the wider portion.  Cast iron cookware can be used directly on the fire, lighter weight vessels may be damaged if place directly on the coals. I've seen light weight aluminum pans reduced to bubbling silver puddles by a hot campfire.  For best results, wait until the fire is reduced to a nice bed of glowing coals before cooking. It is safer and more effective than trying to cook over open flames. Even though you may have to wait longer for to coals to reach the right stage, things will cook faster and more evenly than they will over the flickering  flames.  And you can actually roast marshmallows to a nice golden brown without setting them on fire!  Campfires are sometimes prohibited in suburban neighborhoods, but cooking fires are usually allowed and during a significant disaster situation all rules are likely to be suspended or relaxed. If you do build a fire, do it correctly and safely so you don't add to the existing emergency.

You can cook other things besides hot dogs and marshmallows on a stick over your campfire. Just about any kind of raw meat (except ground meats) can be hung on a stick for cooking. You can also bake breads by mixing the dough so it is thick and sticky and wrapping some around a stick. Called "twist sticks", they are a very tasty bread treat for camping. No matter what you are cooking this way, it is best to cook over a bed of glowing coals, not over open flames. Most of us don't have the patience to wait for the fire to reach the right status for cooking, which is one reason so many marshmallows light up the night, becoming more torch than treat. Cooking over coals provides even heat that, with a little practice, allows you to roast your feast to perfection without turning it into a flaming torch or burnt offering -- or have it burned on the outside and raw in the middle! Take time to build the right kind of fire and let it reach the right stage of coals for cooking. It will pay off. Another option for bread is ash cakes. To make them, prepare a thick dough and form it into biscuit-sized patties. Then drop it directly on glowing coals or hot rocks in the fire to bake it, flipping it over once to cook both sides if the tops don't cook fast enough. A little ash may cling to the biscuit when it is done, but usually not very much and you can just brush it off and enjoy great tasting hot bread fresh from the fire. They are especially good with butter and honey or jam.  You can even churn your own butter from whipping cream if you're feeling particularly adventurous.  Place some small pebbles (marble size or less) into a small container with a 1/4 to 1/2 cup whipping cream and shake until it forms butter.  Avoid using a glass container, but if you have to don't shake it too hard or the pebbles will break the glass!

Not exactly a stick, but a useful campfire cooker is a pie cooker. These long-handled clam shell cookers turn two pieces of bread and a couple of spoons of pie filling into a hot tasty pie. It surprised me how much the bread tasted like pie crust when we took them out.  There are many commercial forks made for cooking hot dogs and marshmallows but an ordinary wire coat hanger straightened out will work almost as well. Some of the commercial forks have have telescoping handles so you adjust them to cook the food and not your front.  I've seen some with the tines bent around so they point back at you.   Supposedly they reduce the risk of stabbing someone with them.

Of course, there are things you can't cook on a stick. Soups, stews, hot water for coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and purifying drinking water, medical purposes and washing dishes, requires a pot of some sort. If you plan to prepare these items often, a metal grate would be helpful. The grate from on old BBQ will work. You can also buy cooking grates most anywhere camping supplies are sold. Or just buy some sturdy metal grating like expanded metal from a hardware store or metal supply store. In an emergency or survival mode you may be able to use green sticks to support your frying pan or pots. Just keep an eye on them to make sure they don't catch fire and let your dinner drop into the fire! In an real emergency you might steal the racks out of your oven or refrigerator to use as cooking grids. Another technique is it bury a flat rock in the middle of your fire.  Make sure it isn't very porous.  Porous rocks often contain moisture and will explode when heated.  Then, after the rock has been heated by the fire, brush away the burned wood, set your pot or pan on the rock, and build the coals up around the pot on the rock or cook foods directly on the rock. This approach requires patience and planning ahead and cooking will probably take longer than cooking on a grid directly over the coals. You may also be able to carefully position rocks to support your pots and pans. If you have cast-iron cookware, you can even cook directly on the coals. DO NOT try this with light weight aluminum cookware unless you WANT to see it puddle in the coals while your dinner oozes and steams away! Lacking real cookware, you may be able to improvise temporary cooking containers using ordinary tin cans. They won't stand up to extended use, but you can usually heat up stew or chili in its original can and may be able to re-use the can several times before it begins to burn through. If you don't have any pots or pans at all you may be able to cook fish or pieces of meat on a "frying pan" made of green branches. Start with a forked flexible stick and form the ends of the two branches into an oval. The final shape should look kind of like a tennis racket. Then weave sticks up and down and across the oval. Attach your fish or meat by lacing extra branches over it and cook it to perfection. In a survival situation you may not have any pots or pans. You can make a bowl out of clay or even ordinary mud and fill it with water, soup or stew, then add small hot rocks one at a time until it reaches the desired temperature.

Building the right kind of campfire is critical to successful cooking.  As always, you don't want a bigger fire than you need.  Trying to cook on a raging bonfire is not fun at all.  Any minimal success is likely be tainted by food that is charred on the outside and raw in the middle.  And you're likely to roast your own skin about as much as you do the meal you're trying to prepare.  A really good fire for cooking is a Daktoa Fire Pit. This is one of the most efficient cooking fires ever. Some tricks for cooking on a regular campfire include laying two green logs across the coals.  Place them so they're not quite parallel, but have one end about 3" apart and the other end about 7" apart.  Place your coffee pot or tea kettle on the narrow end and cook in larger pats and frying pants on the wider end.  You can also use rocks to support your pans and, sometimes, you can cook directly on the heated rocks if you need to slow cook something.  Heated rocks are a good spot for baking bread.

Dutch oven cooking is popular among many camping enthusiasts. It can be done over a campfire, but is usually done using charcoal briquettes for better temperature control and more even heat. Dutch ovens are the old fashioned version of today's "crock pot" cookers. You can cook just about any thing in a dutch oven: main courses, breads, even cakes and other tasty deserts. Traditional dutch ovens are made of cast iron and are nearly indestructible. Today there are modern aluminum versions which are lighter to carry, but most campers still prefer the venerable cast iron ovens. You can fill them with goodies and let them simmer just about all day for a tender and tasty evening repast. Cast iron dutch ovens need to be "seasoned" before they can be used. This puts a coating of what is essentially burned cooking oil on the surface. This prevents rust, helps keep foods from sticking, and adds a unique flavor to meals. Cleaning a dutch oven mostly consists of scraping away the residual foods with a plastic scraper and wiping it down with paper towels or crumpled newspaper. NEVER use soap or detergent to clean a dutch oven. It will destroy the seasoning and leave a residue that may contaminate your food and give it an awful taste and possibly give you a case of the runs! There are many good web sites that give dutch oven cooking tips and recipes. If someone washes your dutch oven with soap, rinse it thoroughly and re-season it before using it again.

Emergency pots. If you find yourself without anything to cook in, you may still be able to boil water using hot rocks. Form a kind of bowl out of leaves or mud or hollow out a piece of wood -- or use a canvas bag -- anything that will hold water. Fill it with water. Place several small rocks (up to golf ball size) in your fire until they are hot. Then drop them into the water. Keep adding rocks (you may have to remove some of the cooler rocks so your bowl doesn't overflow) until the water reaches the desired temperature. If you have any canned goods, you can usually heat them in their original cans (be sure to open the can or at least punch some holes in the top before putting it in the fire. Otherwise, it might explode! Empty cans can be used for boiling water or preparing other foods. They can also come in handy for collecting water and capturing fish and game for food. You might yank the metal headlight "pan" off an disabled OHV and use it for a cooking pot.  I've even seen demonstrations of boiling water in a paper cup!  As long as there's water in the cup it keeps the paper from reaching its ignition point, but trying to use it over an open flame may cause the paper to overheat and ignite anyway.

In a survival situation you probably won't have any cooking pots.  You might be able to carve a bowl out of wood or make one of clay or even ordinary mud.  Then you can drop hot rocks into the water or other liquids in the bowl to heat them.

The Famous R2D2. An alternative to open campfires that is sometimes permitted even when open fires are prohibited is what our family calls "R2D2". R2D2 is an old washing machine tub we sometimes use for a fire pit. We've even had forest rangers borrow our R2D2 on windy nights. A tub from a dryer might work too.  They're usually larger, letting you build a bigger fire but making them more difficult to transport.  The perforations in either tub (not all dry tubs are perforated) allow plenty of ventilation yet restrict the wind from scattering embers the way it can from an open fire.  The porcelain coating stands up to the heat and prevents rust. Most washer tubs have a center tube where the agitator mounts.  While that may get in the way of loading firewood, it does serve some useful purposes in camp.  For example, I use the tube to put a "foot" on the tub to get it up off the ground.  I mount mine on a stand so it is a few inches above the ground. This serves two purposes. One, you can get your toes right under it to get them warm on cold nights, and two, it brings the top of the unit up to a comfortable cooking height.  The stand consists of a cut down RV table leg that fits inside the bottom of the agitator tube and the outdoor tripod designed to let you use your RV table outside.  I mounted a round grate from an old back yard BBQ on a piece of pipe that fits in the center tube at the top of the washing machine tub, giving me a perfect cooking surface for burgers, hotdogs, corn on the cob, baked potatoes, etc, and for pots for heating water or cooking other things. Contact me (desertrat@desertrat.org) if you are interested in more information about acquiring the materials and building your own R2D2. I can't take credit for the idea -- or the name. In fact, we usually refer to ours as "R2D2 Me Too" since the original R2D2 belongs to a dirt-biking buddy from California. By the way the name is derived from the round, squat shape and the way the fire blinks through the perforations like the lights on Star Wars robot R2D2.  When we are done with our fire for the night, I put a metal garbage can lid over the top, held down by a rock, to prevent any embers from escaping. All the left-over wood burns down to a fine ash by morning, without the danger of spreading hot embers in the wind. Then it can be dumped out and packed up for the trip home. The metal lid might also be used to protect the fire from rain that might otherwise put it out before you're ready to shut down.  When it is on its stand, the bottom is a few inches off the ground. This brings the cooking surface up to a more comfortable height and allows us to get our toes underneath to warm them up on cold nights.

The venerable Coleman stove. The camp stove, in white gas or propane versions, has been a staple of camp cooking for generations. These are fairly inexpensive, light weight and easy to transport, and allow you to prepare food outdoors about the same way you would cook on the stove at home or in your RV. You have nearly the same control over them as  you do your gas range at home or in an RV. Camp stoves are excellent resources to have in your emergency preparedness supplies. Just make sure you have the right fuel.   There are some stoves that are made for "dual fuel" operation.  They will run on either white  gas/Coleman fuel or regular unleaded gasoline.  There are light weight, single-burner back-packer stoves that run on butane. They are very small and light weight so they are easy to store and to carry. The fuel canister is about the size of a can of shaving cream. These are great for short back-packing trips but fuel could be a problem in any kind of extended survival situation. White gas and propane are usually much less expensive, but the larger stoves and fuel containers are not suitable for all situations (like back-packing). The little butane stoves often have built-in flint-and-steel or piezio-electric lighters. The larger Coleman style stoves usually have to be lit with a match or lighter or can be equipped with an add-on flint lighter. Make sure you place the stove on a solid, level, non-flammable surface. Cooking on either of these types of stoves is much the same as using a gas range at home. Make sure you have sufficient overhead and lateral clearance so that you don't set the trees or bushes or your tent or RV on fire. You may need to provide some kind of wind break in breezy conditions. Sometimes the breeze can be strong enough to blow out the flame but even when it isn't that strong, it tends to blow the heat away before it can do its job cooking your meal. Some gasoline powered stoves are built to run on either white gas (Coleman fuel) or ordinary unleaded gasoline. Ordinary unleaded gas is less expensive and will probably be more available in a disaster situation, so having a dual-fuel or unleaded gas stove has its advantages. DO NOT use your Coleman stove in a tent or structure that isn't made for cooking. Stoves require appropriate ventilation to function properly and to prevent you from suffocating as they consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes. Using a stove inside a tent also presents MANY fire hazards. In addition, cooking fumes will damage tent materials, reducing performance and longevity, and creating unpleasant odors that will be difficult if not impossible to get out. Most Coleman and similar style camp stoves have built-in wind protection. Open the lid and swing out the side panels and you've wind guards on 3 sides of your stove. Face the back of the stove into the prevailing winds and you'll probably be able to successfully prepare your meals in all but the very windiest conditions.

Camp Chef is another good brand for outdoor cooking options. Their products are usually bigger, stronger, and hotter than ordinary camp stoves. The Camp Chef stove we bought is a two-burner model with removable legs that lets it fold up into a compact package for transport and storage. Options include a BBQ box and very nice grill/griddle combinations that add a lot of flexibility to this stove. A 6" high wind guard is also available and helps a lot in windy conditions. A Camp Chef stove will easily accommodate large frying pants and stock pots for preparing meals for larger groups of people.  Available accessories worth considering include grill/griddles,  a BBQ box, and a sturdy canvas carrying case.

Portable propane BBQs. There are a number of portable propane BBQs on the market that are good choices for camping and picnicing. They use the small 1 lb. propane cylinders so they are easy to transport, set up, and use. They provide pretty much the same features as cooking on your gas BBQ at home, but in a smaller package. You can fuel these directly from the propane tank on your RV using an "Extend-a-flow" system that connects from the RV gas line to the stove. You will also want to protect these against wind. On more than one occasion it was windy enough that I gave up grilling hamburgers outside and had to fry them in a pan on the RV range. Again, DO NOT use BBQs or hibatchis inside a tent or RV and avoid using them under an RV awning, a dining fly, or other fabric canopy.

Charcoal. Many people like cooking with charcoal. It is a fairly efficient method and, depending on the type of wood the charcoal is made from, can lend a pleasant taste to burgers and steaks grilled directly over the coals. Charcoal is also a good fuel for Dutch oven cooking. One draw-back is that it takes some time to get the charcoal going, so make sure you plan ahead and give yourself enough lead time. If you use charcoal lighter fluid to start your charcoal, you'll want to allow time enough for all the lighter fluid to burn away before cooking anything directly over the coals. Charcoal lighter fluid is not at the top of anyone's list of favorite condiments! Small table-top charcoal grills and Hibachis are popular choices for camping and picnicing. Personally I prefer the convenience of gas-fired grills. They light easily and heat up more quickly, fuel is cleaner to transport, and I don't have to worry about disposing of hot coals when I'm done.

Disposable charcoal grills can be useful when transport space is limited.  These are usually intended to be used once and thrown away.  They have lightweight pans that don't stand up to repeated use.  They usually come with the charcoal already loaded in the pan.  Just unwrap the whole works, light the charcoal, and you're in business.

Solar cooking. Now we get into some of the more adventurous and experimental techniques. Solar cooking is excellent in survival or disaster situations and is a clean and economic method anytime. You can find numerous plans for solar stoves and solar ovens on the Internet. While specific designs vary, they mostly use the same commonly available materials: cardboard and aluminum foil. The idea is to form reflectors that concentrate the sun's rays on the container you wish to heat. An efficient solar stove can boil water fairly quickly. Solar stoves are light weight, inexpensive to build, cost nothing to operate and can be used anywhere you have sunlight. A solar cooker would be an excellent thing to have in your emergency supply kit. In a survival situation you might make one using only aluminum foil.  You can buy ready made solar cookers too, but to my mind they seem to be a little pricey.

Cooking for a large group? Cooking for a large group obviously takes some special preparations. It is difficult to get everything ready for a lot of people all at the same time. I used to have two 2-burner Coleman stoves and one 3-burner stove I used for scout outings and larger family gatherings. Those were usually more than enough for extended family groups and even some Boy Scout and Church outings. I picked up a larger Camp Chef stove a few years ago. It has two very large burners and there are tons of accessories available for it, including a BBQ box and grill/griddle combination. It has its own adjustable legs so it can be set up level on uneven ground and I don't have to worry about finding a non-combustible surface to set it on. It runs off a portable propane tank like the one you use for your home BBQ or can be hooked to your RV propane tank via an Extend-a-Flow kit. I have found it very versatile for outdoor cooking. The grill/griddle is GREAT for steaks and pancakes. It is a bit large and a bit heavy compared to Coleman stoves. You would not want to take it hiking, but it is great for RV and car camping trips.

A friend of mine in California built the ultimate camp kitchen. He got hold of some surplus cook stove components from an old forest service camp kitchen that was being renovated. He bought a little trailer frame, like one of the kits you put a sheet of plywood on to make a 4x8 flatbed trailer. He built a steel framework to mount the stoves. He had a large (at least 3'x3') grill/griddle, a grate about the same size for cooking hamburgers and large cuts of meat, and a couple of big burners for heating pots of water. He enclosed the sides of the trailer and added a top with fold-out legs so, when lifted off the trailer, the top provided a large table for food preparation and serving. He added a tall lantern hook like a shepherd's crook for a Coleman lantern, and powered the whole thing off a huge propane tank like those used for mobile homes. It provided a truly professional cooking environment and was actually fun cooking for huge groups using his setup. The grill/griddle did dozens of hamburgers at a time and we could cook breakfast for 50 people or so (eggs, bacon, sausage, and pancakes) all at once so everyone could eat together. The extra burners heated water while we were cooking for hot beverages and for clean-up. If you come across some used restaurant equipment and want to make your own portable camp kitchen, keep in mind that the orifices used for propane and natural gas are different sizes and you may have to change them if the unit you purchase was rigged for natural gas.

Microwave ovens are more likely to be used in an RV than on a picnic table when tent camping, but if you're in a campground with power or have brought a portable generator along, you might use a microwave outdoors.  One of the advantages of cooking outdoors is that it keeps the heat and fumes out of your RV.   Serving a piping hot pizza or some Hot Pockets right from the microwave on the picnic table can be rather convenient.  And  you can't beat the speed at which microwave ovens prepare things for  you.  For example, you can whip up a cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate in 1 minute.

Emergency meals. If you find yourself using your camp cooking skills in a post-disaster situation, knowing how to prepare simple meals with minimal resources will be advantageous. Be sure to try out some during normal camping trips so you'll know how to do it when disaster strikes. Foil dinners, also known as "hobo stew" are simple and can be cooked in a campfire or on a stove or BBQ. Simply wrap some meat, potatoes and vegetables (seasoned to taste) in aluminum foil and heat until the meat is cooked and the potatoes are no longer crunchy. If you are without pots and pans you can sometimes make do cooking on stones. Put some dry, flat, non-porous stones in the bottom of your fire for about an hour. When the fire burns down enough, sweep the ashes off with a handful of long green (not dry) grass, then cook meat, fish, eggs, etc right on the hot stones. MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) have pretty much replaced the old-time C-rations for military applications and are now available to civilians at most outdoor supply stores. They are pretty easy to transport and have a long shelf life but they tend to be a little pricey. Be aware that even though they come in sealed foil pouches, they are still susceptible to being chewed into by rodents.  Old-time C-rations make good emergency meals if you can get your hands on some. They still occasionally show up at military surplus stores. Sometimes they are released from Civil Defense Emergency centers when the facilities are retired or renovated. Even though the expiration date may have passed, they are probably still viable unless the cans are bulging or corroded. You may be able to heat canned food like chili, stew, soup or canned meat by placing the can on the exhaust manifold of your vehicle, either while it is running or while it is still hot shortly after parking it. Make sure you have a way to remove it without burning your hands! Wear gloves or use pliers to pick it up -- or use a stick to knock it off the manifold.  This was a favorite way to heat up C-rations when I was in the Army more years ago than I like to count.

I have recently come across emergency meals that include their own heat packs.  They come a dozen in a box and are completely self-contained meals, except for drinks.  Having their own heat packs eliminates the need for stoves or fires making them very attractive options for dealing with an emergency situation,

Bon appetite!

RVs and OHvs -- My Personal Preferences

People sometimes ask what is the best RV or OHV? The only true answer to that question is, "The one that works for you now". There are various yardsticks people may use to rate different brands and styles, such as price, features, performance, and reputation. Personally I would replace "price" with "value". If you have the resources, it is possible to pay millions of dollars for a fancy Class A motorhome, but does it deliver real value over a less expensive, entry level, "luxury" motorhome? Perhaps for some people. But since most of us don't have that kind of cash lying around looking for something to spend it on, we have to examine the options within our own budgets. That's where value really comes into play. An inexpensive, tent trailer isn't a good value no matter how cheap it is to purchase if it doesn't fit your family or you don't or won't use it, while a $250,000 Class A luxury RV might be an excellent value if you can afford it and if it delivers the functionality and features you require or desire. Personally, I  find value in "extras" I might not have considered essential in my early days of RVing. For example, a recent motorhome had an electric step, automatic levelers, an ice maker, and a washer and dryer, none of which were on my original "must have" list, but things we definitely enjoy and that add convenience to our outings. Having been spoiled by the levelers, they are close to becoming a "must have" if/when we switch again. I especially appreciate them when I arrive in camp after dark or in bad weather.  The ice maker is a nice option during hot desert outings although it seldom got used.  The washer and dryer virtually never got used.  It would be a different story if we were full timing.  Thought about  using the dryer to dry clothing after we got wet in the rain but gave up because the rollers for the drum had developed a flat spot from sitting unused for so long and it thumped like it was full of boots!

What works for me may or may not work for you.  Only YOU can decide what works for you.  You might consider the opinions of experienced users, but ultimately, you have to find the right setup for you and your family.  There is definitely value in asking your colleagues why they chose their rigs and what they like -- and don't like -- about them.

Over the years I've owned and used almost every type of recreational vehicle there is: tent trailers, travel trailers, fifth wheels, truck campers, toyhaulers, Class B van conversions, Class C motorhomes, and Class A motorhomes. For many years we owned an older Holiday Rambler Class A, a 40' diesel pusher. Which one was the best? Each one I owned was the best for me at the time. I liked the big Holiday Rambler a lot, it had more conveniences and luxuries than others we've owned, but it would not have been good for our family of eight when all the kids were still at home.  It seems kind of strange that the really big Class A's are usually designed for 2 people while many of the smaller Class C's accommodate 8-10 people!  The "bunkhouse" motorhomes we owned when the kids were young were best for us at the time, our luxury Class A fit our needs as a semi-retired couple until we decided to downsize.  So, not only should your RV be the best for you, it needs to be the best for you right now.   For most people affordability is usually a significant factor in purchasing an RV so the best RV for you at any given time is likely to be the one that fits your budget as well as your family and your planned use.  Fortunately, there are usually a fair number of units on the market at any one time giving you many to choose from in order to get the most features for what you spend.

Overall, I have found that the Class A motorhome best meets my needs and the needs of my family most of the time. I prefer a motorhome over any type of towable RV for a couple of reasons. For one thing, most of my travels have mostly been in California and Oregon where vehicles pulling trailers are limited to 55 mph. When we were on a tight schedule to visit Grandma and Grandpa in Oregon it cut many hours off the trip to be able to travel the normal speed limit. A thousand mile trip at 55 mph will take a little over 18 hours. The same trip at 70 mph will take about 14.25 hours. So if travel time is important to you, driving a motorhome will save a significant amount of time on the road in states with the 55 mph for vehicles towing trailers. I've always thought that the reduced speed limits for trucks and trailers was a particularly misguided "safety" measure. One of the most dangerous traffic conditions is "traffic shear" -- the difference in speed between lanes of traffic. It seems counterproductive to legislate traffic shear by having different speed limits for different vehicles on the same  road. There may have been a time when over-the-road trucks didn't have adequate stopping power, but today's trucks have brakes engineered for 100,000 pounds and are typically hauling less than 80,000 pounds. Pulling travel trailers without their own braking systems may over-stress the brakes on a tow vehicle, but any trailer with its own adequate brakes should offer no more risk than a large two-axle truck, which is not restricted to the 55 mph speed limit. Oh well, enough standing on my soap box and whining.

Another advantage of a motorhome, at least to me and my family, is the comfort and convenience traveling in one provides. You don't have to be constantly searching for rest areas or service stations to meet the demands of children's smaller bladders. You can send your co-pilot back to get you a beverage or a snack when needed. With appropriately placed entertainment systems, the kids can enjoy their favorite movies or video games on the road, significantly reducing the incessant cries of "are we there yet?". I also like the minimal setup required when we reach our destination or stop along the way. Many times we've just pulled off the road in a safe area and climbed into bed when we got too tired to keep driving. Of course everyone but the driver can sleep while still traveling too. In some states it is illegal for passengers to ride in a trailer, so on-the-road rest for non-drivers isn't an option in towables in those states.

My preference of a Class A motorhome over a Class C also has a lot to do with perceived stability driving and the capacity of on-board resources. Class A's typically have larger fresh water tanks and larger holding tanks, both of which were essential for dry-camping in the desert with a family of eight (or even a couple!).   As for the stability issue, that is largely subjective and many Class C's are very stable and comfortable to drive. Especially with the new "Super C" models based on large truck chassis instead of a cutaway van chassis.  Some people may be more comfortable driving a Class C because the driver's station and view out the windshield is pretty much exactly the same as a full size van -- but you still have to be aware of and make allowances for the extra height, width, and weight.

I'm NOT saying everyone should run out and buy a Class A motorhome. Your needs will be different from ours. Class C motorhomes are typically smaller, which may be important if you have limited space to park them at home or plan to use them on narrow, twisty roads or camp in small spaces, such as campgrounds with length limitations. Some Class C's get better gas mileage than larger Class A units. Class Bs are even more compact and can offer even better fuel economy. Since Class Bs are fundamentally a full-size van, they can be used as a second car and sometimes even fit in a standard garage. We were quite comfortable in a Class C for many years and even have a lot of fond memories of our early Class B when our family was small.

Towables are still good options for many people. Your budget and/or available storage area may dictate a light weight tent trailer or travel trailer that you can tow with the family car. Not to worry. There are many options available, depending on how you plan to use your RV and what features and conveniences you consider essential. Tent trailers are usually the least expensive and lightest, but there are many lightweight travel trailers designed to be towed by smaller vehicles.  Tent trailers require more setup when you get to where you're going, aren't as well insulated (so they'll be harder to cool in summer and harder to keep warm on cooler days), and some people find the sound of the tent fabric flapping in the breeze disturbs their slumber.

If you already own a pickup truck, a truck camper may be a good solution for you. The latest truck campers even have slide outs that significantly increase the limited living space in traditional campers. We got an incredible deal on an older camper. The unit is more than 40 years old but in exceptionally good condition and we paid only $100 for it! It is fully self contained and everything works. It gives us an option for reaching campsites where our 40' Class A can't go.

The bottom line is, what is best for me, or for your neighbor or your brother-in-law, or the RV salesman, does NOT determine what is best for you. To borrow and adapt a phrase from Smokey The Bear, "Only YOU can decide what is right for you."

The same thing applies to OHVs. My family and I ride dirt bikes. We always have. When we started riding there were no 3-wheeled ATCs or 4-wheeled ATVs and the only "side-by-sides" were Jeeps and dune buggies. Today there are many options, including 4-wheel drive ATVs and UTVs (side-by-sides). One of the reasons we've stayed with dirt bikes over the years is their maneuverability. Dirt bikes don't roll over when you ride them across a hillside the way ATVs and UTVs have a tendency to do. Of course, ATVs don't fall over when you stop like dirt bikes do so there is a recognizable trade off. Dirt bikes can also easily negotiate narrow single track trails and deftly weave through obstacles such as trees and boulders. ATVs do have advantages in some terrain, especially if they're equipped with 4-wheel drive. The wide, soft tires are excellent for sand, snow, mud, and other soft surfaces. ATVs are also useful as support vehicles for other activities, such as hunting, fishing, and search and rescue operations where you need or want to carry additional equipment or may need to transport injured people. There is no "ideal" OHV. Pick the one that works for you today. You should feel comfortable riding it and it should be fun! If it fails either of these criteria, keep looking. My personal favorite was a KTM 520 EXC off road motorcycle. It had a 4-stroke, electric start engine with enough power to easily lift the front wheel when needed to clear obstacles and negotiate whoops. I now ride a smaller 250CC 4-stroke Honda. It is quick and more maneuverable on mountain trails here in Utah and easier to pick up when I crash than my KTM, but it lacks the raw, 1960's muscle-car style power of the KTM that I so enjoyed in on desert trails in southern California.  Just like an RV, affordability is usually a major factor in finding the right ride.  You can sometimes get exceptionally good deals on used OHVs.  But sometimes, especially if the price is particularly low, you'll find they've been abused and you would better off to keep looking.  There are usually plenty of used OHVs on the market and people will have various reasons for selling them.  Sometimes they've upgraded to a newer or at least different model and are just hoping to get a little more out of their old unit than the trade in allowance would have been.  Sometimes there are life style changes that force a sale.  When there are accidents or illnesses in the family, people sometimes have to give up their toys.   Sometimes a change in job or marital status may alter their priorities and their opportunities to go riding.

Of course, what works for you might not be an RV at all.  You might like tent camping better -- or it might fit your budget better at this time.   Remember, the whole formula is "what works best for you right now".  You may have to compromise on some of the features you want if they aren't currently within your budget.  However, careful searching and patience may let you find something that comes close to being the rig of your dreams.  Just don't let your "ultimate" dream setup keep you from getting started.   When you find an RV that meets most of your requirements, it might be worth trying it out for a while.  You may very well learn many things that will prepare you to make better choices in the future.

Available budget will often be a significant factor in choosing equipment.  If money were no object, we could all just run down to our favorite dealer and order up RVs or OHVs custom made to our individual specifications.  But for most of us, budget demands we purchase used items or buy "off the rack" when buying new ones.  Each time I've changed RVs I've had to wrestle with major decisions between older units with more features and newer ones with fewer miles.  But one of the wonderful things about RVs is you can usually even find older units with low miles.  When we had to replace our 1986 40' Holiday Rambler due to an accident we opted for a 1984 Southwind Eagle, a 27' Class A with just under 42,000 miles on it.  And if you decide an RV isn't in your budget yet, go ahead and enjoy some tent camping.  You'll have fun and learn a lot.

Now, figure out YOUR personal preferences and pick the RV and OHV that is right for you -- right now!

RV Awnings

RV awnings perform a number of functions on today's rigs. The traditional RV awning is the patio awning that provides shade and protection from light rain and creates a patio space alongside your RV.  The patio awning often shades many of the windows too, reducing heat transfer to the interior.   Traditional awnings include patio, window, and door awnings. Window awnings are easy to use and shade individual window so you can leave them open to enjoy a fresh air in your RV, even in light rain. They also keep out the sun to keep the interior cooler, protect the upholstery, and reduce load on the air conditioner. Some window awnings can be pulled down so they cover the entire window, offering additional privacy as well as keeping out unwanted light and heat.   Door awnings extend over the door, mostly to provide protection from rain when you're going in and out.  Most units equipped with slide out rooms have awnings that automatically extend over the top of the slide out to protect it and reduce the chance of moisture or wind leaking into the RV.  Awnings can ONLY be used when the vehicle is parked.  NEVER leave any awning extended while traveling. Even if you don't hit a sign post or something like in the movie "RV", at highway speeds the wind alone will rip the awning off the vehicle, often causing serious damage to the side of the vehicle as well as destroying the awning and its hardware. If you don't believe me, watch the movie "RV" with Robin Williams and see what happens when he drives off in his rented RV with the awning extended. He doesn't get far before the awning is knocked off as he passes a sign post.  A more common problem is an awning coming loose (unrolling) during transit.  A flapping or detaching awning can also create a nasty hazard for other drivers -- one you would be financially responsible for if your awning damages their vehicle or causes an accident.  Even properly stowed awnings sometimes work loose in transit, so in addition to making sure they are locked down before you hit the road, keep an eye on the while you're traveling.  You can also buy special straps and cases to supplement the original anchoring methods for extra protection. The cases, which snap on, also protect the exposed part of the awning fabric from sunlight.

To extend the awning you usually have to release a locking lever on the front end of the awning roller.  You can usually use the same wand to do this that you will use to pull the awning down.  These wands are usually made of solid steel rod about 3' long with a 90° angle about 1" long to engage the latch on one end and a loop for a handle on the other end.  There are also telescoping wands to save space in your RV but mine broke the first time I tried to use it.  The angle pulled right out of the tube.  It may have been a manufacturing defect.  The angle had grooves that could have been gripped if the tube had been compressed around it, but there was no evidence of any attempt to clamp the tube to the angle.  Once you've unlocked the roller, unfasten all the clamps or pins that secure the awning arms.  Sometimes there are locks that hinge around the arms; just swing them out until they allow the inside rafter to pull free.  Sometimes there are spring clamps with pins that go through the arm and the rafter to keep them in place.  Almost always you also need to loosen the knob that tightens the rafter in place once it is extended to allow it to slide open.  When everything has been unlocked, hook the angle end of the wand in the loop in the awning strap.  It should be about in the middle of the awning and barely visible under the awning roll.  If you can't find it, simply pull out on the arms to get the awning to unroll.  Having one person on each end will make this easier, especially on longer awnings, but it isn't absolutely necessary.  If you have to do it solo you might have to go back and forth from end to end several times before you get it all the way open.  Once the awning is fully unrolled, slide the ends of the rafters (which are inside the channel of each arm) up toward the roller as  far as they can go and lock them in place using the knob on the rafter.  Then use the handle on each arm to raise the awning to the desired height.  If you're going to use de-flappers, it is usually easier to install them now before you raise the awning out of reach.  The arms will usually have spring loaded buttons on the inner arm that lock into holes in the outer arm.  There will be several holes so you have quite a bite of flexibility in setting the height of the awning.  Make sure it is high enough to clear the entry door.  Most awnings are made so you can disconnect the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV if you want to use it in "patio" mode.  In this mode the arms are placed so they are perpendicular to the ground under the front corners of the awning and are staked in place.  Some people find the angled arms (as shown in the picture above) get in their way and prefer the patio mode.  Personally, I prefer to leave the arms attached to the RV.  They are very stable and secure and it is quicker and easier to roll the awning up if the wind kicks up or I have to make a quick departure for any reason.  If you have any center rafters or "awnbrella" supports they should be installed now.  "Awnbrella" supports are designed to bow upward to lift the awning fabric, provide a little extra head room, and improve rain run-off.  By tightening and support the fabric they also help control flapping.


To retract your awning and store it for travel,  reverse steps used to extend it.  If the awning is in patio mode (with the bottom end of the arms removed from their locks on the RV and placed on the ground, reattach them to the RV.  Then release the arms and lower the awning roller by unlocking the arms and collapsing them.  Most awnings have a release handle that is also used to lift or lower the arms.  Then release the catches on the rafters, unscrew the knobs, and slide the outside end of the rafters down toward the bottom of the arms so they're roughly parallel to the side of the RV and in place with the arms.  Then release the lock lever on the roller tube.  Keep a hand on the tube so it doesn't get away from you as you make your way to the center.  Use the awning strap to control the speed at which the awning rolls up.  You will need the wand to control the ascent as it rises above your reach.  If there is a wind, it may cause the awning to roll up crooked and you may have to tweak the arms a little to get them to close around the rafters -- or unlock the roller, pull the awning back out, and do it over until you get it straight, having someone help by guiding the arms as they close.  Once the awning is completed rolled up and in place, tighten the knobs on the rafters and secure the awning arms using the hinged locks or spring pin clamps.  There are also after market devices to further secure the awning roller and arms to prevent it from coming loose during transit.  Some secure the arms, some secure the rolled fabric.  Those that secure the arms are easier to use since you don't have to reach up to the roof or get on the roof to reach the rolled awning to install them.  Devices and cases that secure the rolled awning can be difficult to install, but may be worth the effort to protect your expensive awning and give you peace of mind on the road.

A convenient awning accessory is set of awning deflappers.  These clever devices fasten to the horiztonal awning arms on each end of the awning and clamp to the fabric to help keep it taught and reduce flapping in light breezes.  You still want to retract your awning when the wind picks up.  I have tried two different styles.  On clamps securely to the awning arms and the other uses a velcro strap.  They both work pretty well.  The velcro strap version allows you some leverage to pull the awning taught once the clamp is tightened on the fabric.  With the rigid model you have to grab  hold of the awning fabric and pull it into the clamp while you secure it.  This task is easier with two people so if you're planning on setting up your awning by yourself frequently, the one with the velcro strap might be a better choice.

Awnings enhance and extend outdoor living space on our RVs just like patios and porches do on our permanent residences. They provide a place where we can sit and enjoy the view, comfortably out of the sun or even light rain. There are many accessories that can further enhance the experience. On very hot days in the desert I have used a mist system along the awning roller to make the area under the awning cooler and more comfortable. If you connect the mist system to your RV fresh water supply, take care not to use up all your water! I used a separate water supply and pump. There are shades you can use to extend the awning to block late-afternoon sunlight. There are panels you can attach to enclose the awning to create an outdoor room. You can chose from screen panels that partially block the sun and keep out insects but allow you to still see out or solid, privacy panels, that turn the entire area under the awning into an enclosed room. The roller tube on most RV awnings has a slot that accommodates shades and privacy panels and a variety of other accessories, including patio lights and 12-volt fans.

Awning Mats. Awning mats further define your RV "patio" and help keep dirt and debris from being tracked into your coach. There are many beautiful awning mats to choose from to match or compliment just about any RV color scheme. They are usually made of a polypropolene mesh that allows water to pass through the mat instead of puddling. Many people still use simple "grass mats" -- the green, artificial grass style indoor-outdoor carpet available in most hardware stores and home centers. Although the green color doesn't always match the RV color scheme, the lawn-like appearance makes it quite acceptable for most applications. You can also purchase it in any length you want to cover the whole area under your awning. I have used them for years with good success. They are inexpensive and you can hang them on the fence or lay them out on an inclined driveway to hose them off when needed. Be sure to let them dry thoroughly before folding or rolling them up and putting them away.  If you put them away wet you'll encourage mold and mildew that won't be pleasant the next time you want to use them.  Awning mats can usually benefit from being staked down so the wind doesn't mess with them.  When camping on dirt or gravel you can use tent stakes or large (10"-12") nails.  I've seen folks recommend driving the nails through a canning jar lid to get some leverage to remove them and to hold the mat securely.  I prefer to us large flat washers, which are much stronger than the tin lids.  We used to camp on an old paved culdesac the California City area in southern California.  It looked just like the rest of the desert but there was asphalt under the sand.  Tent pegs and manually driven nails wouldn't work there so I used a Hilti 22 caliber nail gun to tack down my awning mat.  2" nails were usually sufficient and fairly easy to remove when it came time to break camp.  I shot the nails through washers so they didn't cut through the mat and could be easily removed.

Another convenient accessory for awnings are side walls. You can choose between screen or solid fabric, depending on whether you want to just keep out the bugs or create a private space. You might adapt ordinary tarps to create a private room, but commercial kits will be cut to size and shape for easier installation, better fit, and will be better looking.  Another side wall alternative is a loose knit shade fabric that is primarily intended to filter sunlight without completely blocking your view.

Sometimes you need an extension on your awning when the sun drops low enough to shine underneath it. Extensions are usually made of  opaque vinyl sheeting that slides into the accessory rail on the awning roller but can also be attached with clamps to the valance on non-roller awnings.  Some full length commercial extenders are made of a mesh fabric that blocks most of the glare but not the view. In a pinch you might use an ordinary tarp to extend your awning. The mesh extenders often serve pretty well to keep the bugs out too. You may need an extension on the front of your awning or on one or both sides, depending on how your rig is oriented toward the sun and what time of day it is.  Sometimes you can just let the extenders hang down but mostly you'll want to secure the bottom edge with bungee cords to keep it from flapping and to hold it at the angle you want it.  Mesh extenders allow some air flow and block most of the sun' heat while solid extenders will block air flow while completely protecting you from the sun.  Choose what will meet your individual needs.

The most convenient awnings are permanently attached to the RV, together with the arms necessary to support them. You can even purchase electrically operated awnings that can be extended or retracted at the touch of a button. Upscale models even have wind and rain sensors that retract the awning automatically when the wind exceeds a pre-set speed or it starts to rain. When using any permanently attached awning, be sure to release the travel locks before trying to extend it and make sure they are securely latched before driving. Many awnings have spring lock pins that push through the arms for a positive lock while traveling that have to be removed to extend the awning. It is a good idea to keep a little tension on the awning as you roll it up to ensure it rolls tightly when putting it away. A loosely rolled awning can be caught by the wind as you're driving and the results can be disasterous!. Not only is it likely to tear the awning fabric, it can whip the awning arms loose, ruining the arms and causing serious damage to your vehicle or even other vehicles on the road.

Permanently installed awnings can usually be used with the bottom of the arms still attached to the vehicle at an angle or in "patio" mode, where the bottom of the arms are staked down to the ground, allowing the arms to stand erect. Leaving the arms attached to the vehicle means you don't have to bother with staking them down to the ground and it makes it quicker and easier to extend and retract the awning.  You also avoid having to deal with securing the foot of the arms to muddy ground.  This is especially appealing if the wind kicks up and you need to retract the awning in a hurry. A disadvantage to this option is that the arms are angled from the roller at the outer edge of the awning back to where they mount near the bottom of the RV side wall. This creates an obstacle that some people find very annoying. If you're one of them, you can detach the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV and stake them down directly below the roller tube so they are vertical. There are also awning straps that can are designed to help secure the awning in higher winds. They pass over the top of the awning and are secured to the ground by cork-screw shaped metal anchors. In my personal opinion, if the wind gets strong enough to need an awning strap, its time to put the awning away. There are also "deflappers", devices that attach to the rafters and clamp to the fabric to reduce the how much the fabric flaps in moderate breezes. I've tried several styles of these and they all seem to work pretty well. Some are rigid and clamp tightly to the rafters, some use velcro straps around the rafters. They all clamp to the fabric to help keep it tight and reduce flapping.  You many want to check out the devices used by your fellow campers to decide which is best for you. The rigid style takes up more storage space, but seems to me to be a little more secure. Permanently installed RV awnings are usually covered by the comprehensive option on your vehicle policy.  Since large awnings can be expensive to replace if they get damaged, it is worth looking into what it costs to include comprehensive coverage and what it covers.  You don't have to pull a dumb stunt like Robin Williams did in the movie "RV" where he drove off with the awning extended.  Close tolerances at camp sites or where you park your RV at home may result in them getting knocked off.  If they aren't securely locked -- or if the locking mechanism is worn or sticky -- they may unroll during highway travel and get damaged.  If your awning should unroll on the highway, pull over where it is safe and attempt to roll it backup as tightly as possible and secure it so it won't come loose again.  Tying or taping the arms along with taping the awning roll itself are some ways to secure it.

Awning maintenance. Awnings normally required little maintenance other than keeping them clean. However, it is a good idea to check all the hardware at least once a year. Spring cleaning is a good to schedule this. Make sure all the screws are tight. That includes those attaching the rail behind the awning as well as all the main brackets. If you are seeing leaks or streaks down the side of your RV under the awning, the screws attaching the rail may be loose and/or the sealant is damaged. For smooth operation spray a little silicone lubricant on the locking mechanisms. Rub a little candle wax or paraffin on sliding surfaces. You might also dry using dry teflon lubricant. Anything that leaves a sticky residue should be avoided since it would trap dirt and damage the surfaces. Be sure to follow your manufacturer's recommendations for lubricants and service and adjustments.  Awning fabric can benefit from using special cleaners that condition the fabric and provide extra UV protection.  If your awning gets faded but the integrity of the fabric is still in tact you can paint them with vinyl paint to renew -- or change -- the appearance.  You will probably have to mask off the portions you don't want to paint.  The easiest way I've found is to disconnect the arms so I can let the awning hang all the way down the side of the RV, giving me access to a nice, flat, vertical surface to paint.  Go easy and use several light coats to avoid creating runs.

A key factor to keeping an awning looking and good and lasting a long time is to keep it clean and never allow it to be stored wet for any length of time. There are special awning cleaners and conditioners that can safely be used to clean your awning and restore its appearance. A good conditioner will also add UV protection and help prevent the fabric from becoming faded and brittle. If you put an awning away wet and leave it for more than a day or two before opening it up and drying it, the next time you go to use it, it is likely to have the appearance and aroma of a duck blind in the swamp -- not usually a good thing!

A note of caution: awning rollers are spring loaded. Always have a secure grip on the pull strap or awning arms when extending or retracting the awning. If you allow the awning to retract too quickly it can damage the arms, tear the fabric, or pinch your fingers as the arms close! If your awning doesn't roll up tightly enough you may need to adjust the tension.  This can be tricky and, if you're not careful, can result in broken fingers if you fail to control the tool you are using to wind the awning.  I like to use a pair of Channelock style slip joint pliers to grip the end of the roller once the arms have been removed.  You only need to remove them on one end.  Leave the other arm in place to secure the other end of the awning.  Take is slow and easy, and don't wind it too tight or you'll have trouble extending the awning and may run the risk of breaking the spring!

Bag awnings. A less expensive alternative to permanently mounted awnings are bag awnings. These roll up like a tent and have to be slid into the awning rail on the top of the RV when you want to use them. You will not normally see these on motorhomes or large trailers, but they are frequently used on tent trailers, truck campers, and pop-up trailers where they can be installed while the roof line is within reach. They attach to an awning rail along the top of the RV.  To install them on anything but a pop up trailer, you'll probably need a ladder to reach the awning rail.  The outer edge is held up by tent poles and they need to be held in place by ropes and stakes to pull the fabric taut. The ropes and stakes sometimes present a tripping hazard as you approach the RV so it is good to tie brightly colored ribbons or pennants to the ropes so you and your guests and see them. I've seen enterprising RVers rig a way to attach the poles to the bottom of the RV wall and hold the awning in place using ratchet straps to avoid the ropes and stakes, but in this configuration you again have an angle obstacle at each end of your awning that is annoying to some people so it is a trade-off.

Lights. If you are attached to shore power, running the generator, or have a sufficient battery/inverter configuration you can run 120-volt electric patio light strings along your awning. You will find a wide selection of styles available just about anyplace RV supplies are sold or you can even use lights designed for home patios. One of my favorites looks like a string of miniature Coleman lanterns.  You can buy awning hangers that slide into the accessory slot in the roller. Some have hooks, some have clamps like suspenders. Either one can be used to secure light strings or shades. Some folks use ID badge clips from Walmart to atach stuff to their awning valance.   Always make sure the lights hang far enough away from any fabric to avoid scorching it. If you are using a Coleman-style gas lantern, be especially careful to hang it low and away from any side panels and away from the side of your RV. These little beasties generate a LOT of heat. A friend of mine used to comfortably heat his Class B motorhome using only his Coleman lantern. It often got hot enough inside to have to open windows to moderate the temperature, even when it was quite cool outside.  These days you can buy various LED lights that will run on your 12 volt system without putting too much drain on the batteries.  A really fun version is a 7-color LED rope light that includes a remote control so you can select different colors, speeds, and patterns of operation from the comfort of your camp chair, but they are still kind of pricey.

Cooking under the awning. I try to avoid cooking under the awning. Rising smoke and cooking vapors collect on the underside of the awning and can be difficult to remove. They also leave residual odors and stains that are hard to get rid of and tend to get worse over time. If your stove gets too hot or your fire too high it may melt or scorch the awning fabric. If the weather is bad and you really need -- or want -- to cook under your awning, position the stove near one end (preferably the downwind end) to minimize the area that may be affected by rising smoke and vapors so any breeze will carry the smoke away instead of under your awning. Keep the flame as low as you can for what you're doing, don't light the stove until you are ready to use it, then turn it off as soon as you're done. I do not recommend ever building a campfire under your awning. Gas powered stoves are cleaner than charcoal burning BBQs and Hibachis and don't require the long lead time and it is easier to control the heat. Rising smoke and cooking odors can still damage awning fabrics, so always exercise caution.  That being said, I have seen tarps stretched over an entire campsite just leaving a hole in the middle over the fire pit.  If done right it works and is generally pretty save, as long as the tarps are high enough above the fire.  Consider the traditional teepees of the American Indians.  They routinely used fire inside to heat them in cold weather.  The steep sides and tall peak with an opening at they very top served as a good chimney to carry the smoke up and away. 

If you must put your awning away wet, which you probably will when it rains, open it up, clean it, and let it dry out at the first opportunity and be sure to dry it out before you return your unit to storage. Even in colder times of the year, sunlight on the rolled awning can raise temperatures inside to produce an environment that is very good for molds and fungus. If you put your awning away wet and leave it, the next time you use it, it may look more like a Ducks Unlimited camo paint job than the colorful striped awning you purchased to match your RV! And I'm sure you will find the odor quite, uh, shall we say, unusual and usually quite unpleasant. Of course, if you like earthy tones and odors and don't mind significantly reducing the usable life of your awning, be my guest! Put it away wet and enjoy the science experiment that develops inside of it! Just don't expect your spouse or your neighbors in the campground to share your appreciation for the unusual look and smell of your awning.

E-Z Ups and Dining flys. In addition to bag awnings, there are standalone awnings that can be used adjacent to your RV or over your picnic table. Dining flys are inexpensive and light weight but they are not very sturdy. They typically have thin aluminum poles -- one at each corner and a taller one in the middle. They have to be secured with ropes and stakes, usually two at each corner. Typical sizes are 12'x12', 8'x 16', and 16'x 16'. Their low price (often under $20) and light weight make them an attractive alternative to more expensive RV awings. Bag awnings typically run a couple hundred bucks for a good one. Permanently attached awnings can cost $500 - $1200 depending on size and features -- more if they are electrically operated. E-Z ups are stand alone awnings in which the fabric is usually permanently attached to the frames and they fold up like a scissor lift. They are typically much sturdier than dining flys but are also much bulkier and heavier to transport. They are, as the name implies, easy to set up and do not require ropes and stakes unless they are being used in windy conditions. They come in a variety of colors and fabrics, including mesh and solid materials depending on whether you want partial shade or full shade or rain protection. You may want to use an awning mat under stand alone awnings just as you would under a permanently mounted awning. The mat helps define the living space and creates a more sanitary and attractive "floor" than dirt, gravel, pavement, or grass.

Umbrellas. Beach umbrellas can be useful when camping. They come in a variety of sizes, ranging from personal models about 3' in diameter to patio or beach models that are typically 6-13 feet across.  Large patio umbrellas can shade a whole picnic table and will required a sturdy base to hold them up. Smaller ones that clamp to your camp chairs provide personal shade. Ordinary rain umbrellas may be handy for both sun and rain. For extra coverage, choose a golf umbrella.  A big, floppy, wide-brimmed hat can serve as your personal awning or umbrella and leaves your hands free for activities.
                                                           

Sometimes a "shady deal" is just what you need!