RV, OHV, and CampingTools

The right tools make any job easier, almost fun, while not having the right tools can make even the simplest jobs frustrating, tedious, time consuming, and even dangerous. A real pain in the neck, or about 2' lower!  Guys like me love tools. My wife insists I already have way too many, but that doesn't stop me from wanting more.   Since she doesn't use them as often as I do she doesn't understand the subtle differences between different kinds of tools etc.  There is always some new tool that looks cool and makes some task easier.  Most people would expect that a simple wrench set would be sufficient for most tasks and in many cases they'd be rigth.  But specialty sets, like "stubby" or long handles wrenches each have their uses.  Stubby wrenches allow you to get into small places standard wrenches won't fit and long handled wrenches not only extend your reach, but give you extra leverage that can be helpful when removing stuck or rusted fasteners.  To a tool novice they may not seem much different, but to a true user the differences are significant.  Likewise, there are several types of pliers, each suited to different uses.  True, you can often get by with just some basic wrenches and pliers, but, as I said at the beginning, having the right tool for the job is important!

RV mechanical tools are needed to perform routine maintenance and emergency repairs on your RV while in camp or on the road. What tools do you need? That will depend partially on what kind of RV you have and how much skill and experience you have. I strongly recommend all RVers and campers to carry a basic tool kit and acquire fundamental mechanical training. RVs and tow vehicles may require SAE and/or metric hand tools so check to see which you have and make sure you're carrying the right tools to fit your vehicle. Some even have both kinds of fasteners.  A lot of the screws used in RVs may be torx head (star) or clutch head (square) instead of standard flat or Philips heads.  You will want to see what your RV has and make sure you have appropriate drivers to keep all the screws tight.  A couple of flat and Philips screw  drivers may be woefully inadquate!

OHVs often require some specialized tools in addition to a set of the right kind (SAE or metric) hand tools. Most dirt bikes and ATVs require metric tools. Check your owner's manual to see what you need. You don't need all the expensive specialty tools recommended in the shop manual for mechanics but if, for example, it takes a special tool to change a spark plug like does on our Honda dirt bikes, you should have one of those on hand.  It is virtually impossible without one.   I also like to have a pair of wire twisting pliers for installing wire to secure hand grips on my dirt bikes.  I've seen guys do it -- or try to do it -- with ordinary pliers, but the results were less than perfect.  In fact, they were less than satisfactory.

Here are my recommendations for a basic tool box. Make sure you include both SAE and metric tools depending on the fasteners on your RV and/or OHVs. Metrinch brand tools are designed to fit both SAE and Metric fasteners using a minimum number of tools. They may seem a little pricey until you compare buying both SAE and Metric sets in place of them. Good quality tools, like Craftsman, will provide many years of service and are not likely to fail. If your budget is limited, watch for Craftsman sales at Sears and K-mart or look for other quality brands like Husky at auto supply stores, hardware stores, and home centers. Harbor Freight has reasonable prices on hand tools and they offer a lifetime guarantee, so if you do break one they will replace it at no charge. I have had a few occasions to exercise their lifetime warranty, and they made good, with no hassle whatsoever. Remember, your wrenches and sockets may need to be SAE, metric, or both.

    * Combination wrench set
    * Socket set (1/2", 3/8", and 1/4 " drive)
    * Pliers (various styles)
    * Screwdrivers
    * Adjustable ("Crescent") wrenches
    * Hammer
    * Electrician's terminal pliers

Combination wrenches have an open end at one end and a six or twelve point box at the other. The box usually has 12 point configuration to fit hex nuts and allow many ways it can be positioned. Six point versions are less versatile, but may hold better. Other types of wrenches may be open end on both ends or boxes on both ends. Combination wrenches are usually more versatile and adequate for most emergency RV and OHV repairs. Some specialized versions include offset box wrenches, "stubby" wrench sets (handy for getting into tight spaces), and extra-long wrenches, which give you more torque with less effort.   Some variations to consider include "Gearwinder" style wrenches whose box end ratchets and "Crossforce" wrenches, whose handles are twisted 90° from the ends so you have a flat surface instead of a narrow one on which to put the force.  Both of these variations can make a task faster and easier than standard wrenches.

Socket sets are typically found in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives. The larger 3/4" drive sets are usually only needed on heavy equipment and would be very heavy to carry around in your RV. Smaller sizes (1/4" and 3/8" drive) are used on small fasteners and in tight spaces. Larger size (usually 1/2" drive) are needed for large nuts and bolts that may be tight or rusted. Standard depth sockets work on bolts and on nuts where the bolt doesn't extend past the nut more than about the thickness of the nut. Deep sockets are needed to handle nuts on bolts that stick out way past the nut when it is tight. You may or may not need deep sockets in your RV/camp tool kit. You may have to figure out if you do on an as needed basis. To save weight and space, don't bother with deep sockets to start with. You can always add them later if you need them. To have a fairly complete tool set that can handle most situations, include deep sockets -- if you're not tight on space or weight capacity.  When you purchase sockets you may have a choice of six or twelve point sockets. Six point sockets are less likely to strip since they have large areas to contact the fastener but twelve point sockets (and wrenches) allow greater flexibility in positioning the tool. In many cases it won't matter which type you use. Only experience will tell you whether you need six or twelve point tools for a particular application. Here again, if space and weight aren't a major concern, having both gives you the most flexibility.  Another type of socket that sometimes comes in handy are u-joint or flexible sockets that allow you to access fasteners from an angle.  You can also get "wobble" extensions that give you some flexibility.  You will probably want to have short, medium and long extensions for all three socket sizes.  A breaker bar for each size may also be useful.  It allows you to get more leverage on rusted or extra tight fasteners than you can usually get with a ratchet.

Various style of pliers will come in handy.  As a minimum you'll want a good pair of 6" standard pliers.  I also like to carry a pair of 8" plies for bigger jobs.  Slip joint pliers like Channelocks are always handy for many tasks, even is lid lifters for  your Dutch oven.  Their adjustable jaw width makes them very versatile.

Power tools, like air or electric impact wrenches are a good addition to your garage at home but are probably overkill for taking on the road.  I have found that some jobs, like repairing the clutch on a dirt bike, are almost impossible with an impact wrench, but for the most part they're too big, heavy, and expensive for the average camper.  I was really pleased when I was able to pick up a cordless impact wrench on a coupon sale at Harbor Freight for my dirt bike trailer.  Another cordless tool you might find worth investing in is a drill/driver, along with a variety of screw driver and nut driver bits.

A single tool kit can satisfy both your RV and OHV mechanical needs if you make sure you have the right format (SAE and/or metric). I like to have separate tool kits in my motorhome and in my motorcycle trailer. That way, if I tow the trailer with another vehicle I have all the tools I need for my dirt bikes without having to transfer anything -- and everything is organized for convenient use. I do carry deep sockets in my motorcycle trailer, but my choices tend to lean somewhat on the overkill end of the scale.  I have found that "T" handle sockets and allen wrenches are really handy for working on my dirt bikes.  

The above basic tool recommendations can also serve as a guideline for your vehicle tool kit when tent camping since you could find yourself in a remote location and need to make emergency repairs to your car or truck to get home.

Camping tools you need are pretty much the same whether you're tent or RV camping. Here is a list of basic camping tools I suggest you consider:

    * Axe or hatchet
    * Splitting wedge
    * Pliers or multi-tool
    * Bow saw
    * Shovel
    * Knife
    * Hammer or mallet
    * Bucket or collapsible water carrier
    * Lighters
    * Gas or battery lanterns

Some really popular optional items I recommend that will improve convenience and enjoyment of your outings but might be considered equipment or gear rather than tools include:

    * Camp chairs
    * Dining fly or canopy
    * Folding camp table
    * Portable sink
    * Flashlights for each camper
    * A collapsible spring rake for clearing debris under your tent or awning mat

Over time you will identify additional tools you may want to add to your basic tool kit. If your RV uses square drive screws, carry square driver tools. If it has torx head clutch head or allen head fasteners, include the matching tools. Allen head fasteners are frequently used on OHVs so you may need a set of allen wrenches. I like the T-handle style. They're easier to use and you can get a stronger twist on stubborn bolts. If you have a lot of hex head screws, a set of nut drivers might make keeping them tight easier.  I've found that a set of -handle sockets make dirt bike repairs faster and easier. I also discovered that a pair of "fencing pliers" is helpful when camping. They double as hammer and nail/staple puller, pliers, and wire cutters. Another, rather unique tool I've found useful is something called "Meyer's Pliers". This is essentially a pair of Vice Grips married to a "C" clamp. You can attach the clamp to just about anything and use the Vice Grips to hold whatever you're working on. Always be on the look out for multiple-purpose tools. I have a pair of pliers that has a Phillips screw driver tip on the end of one handle, a flat screw driver tip on the end of the other handle, and a small hammer head welded to the outside of one of the jaws. It takes up little room in a tool box or pack and provides many useful functions. Another tool I've found useful for loosening stubborn fasteners without damaging them is a hand impact tool. These have square-drives to fit 3/8 or 1/2 inch sockets. You bang the end of the handle with a hammer to provide the "impact". A screw mechanism inside the tool transforms the impact into torque to loosen the fastener.

Multi-tools like the ubiquitous "Leatherman" are handy to have and often touted by campers and survivalists. Les Stroud, TV's "Survivorman", always carries a multi-tool on his adventures. They fit easily in a pack or pocket or can be carried in a belt pouch. The main tools include pliers and a knife, and usually have at least 1 flat and 1 phillips screwdriver blade. Other handy options may include a saw and a punch and sometimes a file.  Some even have scissors.

Knives are a staple of camping tools. An old adage says "A knifeless man is a lifeless man". Even a small pocket knife will be better than nothing, but having the right knife will make camping and survival tasks much easier. But what kind of knife is best? That is largely based on personal preference but the prevailing theme I've seen among survival experts favors a moderate sized (3 1/2 - 4") fixed blade knife like a hunting knife. No doubt you've seen the much advertised "Rambo" knives -- huge knives with a survival kit inside the handle. While they certainly have a certain level of macho appeal, most camping and survival tasks involve carving rather than heavy hacking.  You're usually better off with a smaller knife that gives you more finesse and better control.  A Swiss Army knife has lots of uses. Exercise caution when using any knife with a folding blade, even if it has a locking blade. Always keep your knives and other cutting tools sharp. Sharp tools are safer, more efficient, and easier to use than dull ones.  You're far more likely to injure yourself with a dull knife or axe than a sharp one and the wound will probably be more ragged, making it painful and slower to heal.

Regularly clean and inspect your tools. Repair or replace any that are damaged. Dirty or damaged tools can be dangerous to use and may ruin the parts you use them on. Checking them regularly also allows you to take inventory and put things back where they belong so you can find them when you need them and locate or replace anything that has been lost.

Make your tools are convenient to use. Store them in appropriate tool boxes or plastic tubs that are easy to access. I keep a small tool box with frequently used hand tools under one of the chairs in my RV. Larger, less often used tools, are relegated to a tool box in an outside compartment. When I can, I store outside tools like axes and shovels on the outside of my vehicle where they're easy to get to when it comes time to build the evening campfire or if I need them to dig a vehicle out of snow or sand.  No doubt you've seen Jeeps and other off road vehicles with axes and shovels fastened on the body.  Protect sharp edges on knives, axes, and saws to both prevent damage or dulling of the tool and avoid injuries when you reach for them and keep them from damaging the compartments in which they ride.

Kitchen tools are more appropriately addressed in discussions of organizing and stocking your galley, but you will want to apply many of the same principles of selection, organization, inspection, and maintenance to ensure you have what you need, it is in good repair, and you can find it when you need it.  Consider what you normally use in the kitchen at home.   Chances are you'll find them  useful in your RV or your camp cook kit too.  Because of space and weight consideration you might want to try to get by with smaller versions of some items, giving you more room for the ones you really do use most often.  For example, I found wheel style pizza cutter for our motorhome that is about half the size of the one we normally use at home.  Interestingly enough I bought it on sale at Dollar Tree and believe it or not it cost only a penny!

Tool up!

Using Tarps for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Tarps are a handy resource in just about any camp (or around home too).   They can be used for extra shade, extra rain protection, to cover equipment, and as ground cloths under or inside your tent or even to make a tent.   Tarps come in many different strengths.   The lightest and least expensive tarps (not counting plastic drop cloths) are polytarps and they come in different colors.  The blue tarps are usually the lightest and least expensive.  They will normally be sufficient for most camping temporary tasks.  For a stronger tarp (good for under your tent or longer term use), choose a green "farm tarp" or one of the heavier silver tarps.   For really heavy duty applications, go for a heavy canvas tarp.  There are different grades or weights of canvas tarps, depending on what you need to cover and for how long.  Another consideration is whether the tarp will be stationery or on a vehicle or otherwise subjected to high winds and extreme weather.  How heavy a tarp you need depends on how you're going to use it and how far you have to carry it!   Heavy canvas tarps will be the most durable and provide the most protection, but they are very heavy to carry around if you're hiking or have any distance to tote your equipment from your vehicle to your camp site.  They also tend to be stiff and somewhat harder to work with, especially when its cold.  Light weight "poly" tarps are usually sufficient without the added weight and they take up far less room.  And they are inexpensive and are usually waterproof. u But there are even heavier alternatives out there.  My parents have roll up tarp "walls" on their carport in Oregon.  They are made of the heaviest canvas I've ever seen, at least 3/16" thick and the weave is as coarse as a wood rasp (I  have had the skinned knuckles to prove it)!  They've been in use for over 50 years  of Oregon rain and are still going strong.   They are permanently mounted to the carport but can be rolled up when necessary.  Of course, they are WAY too heavy to consider for camping.   Plastic painter's sheets are just the opposite -- very light, very thin plastic film.  It is inexpensive, waterproof, and easy to carry.  But it isn't very sturdy and is easily punctured or torn. You might use one or more temporarily to keep the rain off, but they won't provide much shade and probably won't stand up to wind and weather very well.  Using one as a ground cloth is pretty much an exercise in futility.  They are so fragile that small twigs and pebbles will easily make holes in them and render them useless.

Tarps come in a variety of sizes so you can usually find one close to the size you need.  Harbor Freight has a wide selection of tarps in various strengths and sizes.  Watch for their ads and flyers and you can often find them on sale to save even more money.

Actual measurements of tarps are usually slightly smaller than the advertised size.   For example, an 8x10 tarp will probably actually measure 7'6" by 9'6".  Be sure to take that into consideration when you buy a tarp.   The actual finished size is usually marked somewhere on the package.   If you want a ground cloth for an 8x10 tent, you may have to buy the next size bigger tarp and fold the excess under.  On the other hand, using a standard "8x10" tarp fits nicely inside an 8x10 tent and even might be just right for use under an 8x10 tent.  It would likely be about 2-3" smaller than the tent on each side so it wouldn't stick out and collect run-off. But -- it could also leave 3" of tent floor exposed to the damp ground and/or debris.  Since you usually won't be walking that close to the walls, the 3" probably won't be a problem.  The trimmed size is usually very good for an inside layer to protect the floor.

For best results as a ground cloth, use a heavy duty tarp underneath your tent to protect the floor against debris and ground moisture.  Use a second tarp inside your tent for added waterproofing to your sleeping bags don't absorb moisture.  The inside ground cloth doesn't need to be as heavy as the one underneath the tent but it should be waterproof, like a plastic tarp.   Using closed cell foam sleeping pads beneath your sleeping bags will give you even better protection and comfort.  Even if you are using sleeping pads to protect your sleeping bags, having an inside ground cloth covering the entire tent floor will help keep the floor clean and be more comfortable when you are moving around in stocking feet and will help protect the floor from damage.   For exceptional comfort, add foam tile to cover your tent floor inside.  It will be like having a wall-to-wall sleeping pad.  The foam tiles are light weight, easy to assemble, and easy to clean.  With both foam tiles and a sleeping pad, you'll be sleeping on cloud 9!

With use tarps will eventually loose some of the their water repellent capability.  Repeated folding, crushing, or whipping in the wind breaks down the structure and wears away the coating. When your tarp begins to get soft and fuzzy and the color begins to fade it is probably time to replace it.  Not only will it have lost some of its ability to keep you dry, it will have been weakened and may rip in the next strong breeze.  Most polytarps will be kind of shiny when they are new and begin to dull as they age.  Sometimes you can extend a tarps waterproof lifetime by spraying it with a waterproofing like Camp Dry.

Tarps can be hung between trees or vehicles or on poles to form a makeshift canopy to provide shade or protection against light rain.   Tarps can be added as an extra "rain fly" over tents for extra protection against rain and sun.   Tarps can be used to cover your firewood and your camping equipment and OHVs to protect them from weather.   I've even seen multiple tarps used to cover an entire camp site.  The center was very high, both for rain run off and to allow building a campfire.  It rained almost that entire weekend, but the large, extended family stayed dry and enjoyed their outing.  Some of the teens had fun dumping the water out of the low spots periodically to help prevent the tarps from coming down.

You can make your own tent using tarps.  A simple shelter can be made by hanging a single tarp over a rope or other cordage or a rafter stretched between two uprights  For more weather protection, use multiple tarps to also enclose the open ends. .  Or you can use one to make a simple lean-to ito keep the rain off.

Tarps are often used to cover equipment in the bed of a truck or utility trailer during transport. They need to be securely anchored to withstand the wind forces that occur at highway speeds.  For the best protection against rain, drape the tarp over the sides of the bed and secure it underneath.  If you leave it inside the bed water can run down and soak your cargo.  In camp they can protect equipment from sun and from rain and snow.   They provide some level of security too -- sometimes just keeping your stuff out of sight avoids it being "acquired" by opportunistic thieves.   "Security by obscurity" is a valid and valuable way of protecting your stuff.

We have found several uses for tarps on our sailboat.  Because wind driven rain can sometimes blow under the companionway slide we usually drape a small polytarp over the cabin to protect the companionway from the rain when anchored.  We hang a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for extra shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Tarps can be used as temporary sail covers if you don't want to take the time to flake the sails and put them away when you stop for a while.  Large tarps can be used to cover your boat to protect it from the elements during the off season.

Small holes or tears can usually be repaired using duct tape or vinyl tape.   Make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape.  For added security, put tape over the damaged area on both sides of the tarp.  Because of the oily waterproofing used on canvas tarps, regular tape may not always stick well.  If any tarp is exposed to wind and weather, the tape may come off.  For best results stitch a waterproof patch in place and seal it with tent seam sealer -- or just replace the tarp.   If there are too many holes and repairs, it becomes something like a description I once heard of how to make a net:  take a bunch of holes and sew them together.   You'll want to replace your tarp long before it reaches that stage. 

Tarps usually come with metal grommets evenly spaced around all 4 sides.  These are useful for tying or staking down the tarp.  If you have a tarp without grommets or need more grommets you can buy grommet kits at most camping stores.  They usually include two-piece grommets, a tool for punching the right size hole in the tarp, and a tool for "setting"the grommet.  That tool consists of a shaped bottom plate that holds the flat piece of the grommet and a driver tool that is used to rivet the second piece to the first using a hammer.  You can also buy tarp clamps that will add "eyes" for attaching ropes without punching holes in the tarp.  Another trick for securing a tarp is to out small rock or short twig near the edge and wrap the tarp around it and secure it with a piece of rope or twine and tie a guy rope to it.  There are also tarp clamps you can use in place of grommets  Here is an example of commercially available tarp clamps:

                                                        

You can buy them at places like Walmart, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Amazon.

Tarps and tent fabrics degree of water proofing are measured by something called hydrostatic pressure.   It represents the pressure necessary to force water through the fabric.   Heavy rain and wind-driven rain will create a higher hydrostatic pressure than light rain so you need a stronger fabric to keep out extreme weather.  A rating of 1000 mm hydrostatic pressure is regarded as shower resistant.  1500 mm rating is sufficient for a summer tent.   2000 mm is the minimum for an all season tent.  Higher ratings of around 3000 mm are used for expedition tents and 5000 mm for really good quality ground cloths.  You probably won't find the ratings for a particular item without doing some extra research.

We use a small polytarp to cover the cabin on our sailboat to prevent wind-driven rain from blowing under the companionway slide when the boat is not in use.  We pull a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for added shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Commercial boom tents can cost hundreds of dollars.  They may look nicer, but don't really function any better than an inexpensive tarp.

Small tarps can be used as emergency ponchos.  The only downside is that you need to cut a hole in the middle to put your head through, perhaps limiting its value for other uses.  For short term use you may be able to just drape it over your head and shoulders like a cape.  Conversely, ponchos can sometimes be  used as small tarps.  The built in hood helps compensate for the hole in the middle.

In an emergency you might cut open a large plastic trash bag and use it as a small tarp, but for best results keep a variety of tarps on hand to accommodate different needs.  Small tarps are surprisingly inexpensive.   I often see them at dollar stores.  Large plastic garbage bags make pretty good ponchos too, and they're a lot cheaper than tarps.

Tarp it!

A Trailer For Hauling Your Camping Gear

Do you need a trailer to haul your camping gear?  Well, maybe.  Depends on your camping style, how much gear you have, how many people are in your group, what kind of vehicle you have, where you are going. what kind of activities you will be involved in, and how long you are going for.  The larger your group, the more complex your activities, and the longer you plan to be gone, the more likely you will need room to haul more stuff.  You might also need extra supplies if your destination is very remote and you won't have reasonable access to additional supplies as needed.

If you normally go camping in a motorhome, camping trailer, or truck camper, you probably won't need a utility trailer to haul your camping gear.  You can usually stow everything you need in your rig.  But sometimes you may want to bring along more stuff than you have room for in your normal recreational vehicle.  Having more people than usual or going on a longer trip than usual typically requires bringing along more stuff.   In such cases or if you are a tent camper and don't have a large vehicle to transport your gear, you will probably want to consider buying or making a light-weight utility trailer to tote your stuff around.  Pickups, vans, and large SUVs might have enough capacity but ordinary passenger cars, especially the small, compact, fuel efficient ones we generally prefer for daily drivers, will probably need extra cargo carrying space.

Even if you are a tent camper you may or may not need a trailer to haul your camping gear.  If you drive a large SUV or a pickup truck you probably have all the room you need to transport your normal camping equipment.  Even a station wagon or a full-size sedan may be adequate.  However, in these days of steadily increasing fuel prices you may choose a smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicle for your daily driver.  Or if your family or regular camping group is large your gear might not fit in any vehicle, especially a smaller one.   If either is the case, you might need a small, light-weight trailer to transport your camping gear.  When I was a teen our family of 4 went camping in a '57 Hudson with sleeper seats and were quite comfortable for several days of travel and camping in and around Yellowstone Park and everything we needed fit comfortably in the trunk.  The same trip in a regular passenger car a year or so later required motel stops.

Some alternatives to a trailer might include a roof top carrier or hitch-mounted cargo rack or box.  If you have a vehicle with a roof rack you may be able to carry a lot of the bulky, lighter weight items like sleeping bags in a waterproof cargo bag secured to the roof rack. If you live in an area that gets little rain you might get way without covering your cargo, but whether you use a cargo carrier or a tarp it is still a good idea to cover the load to protect it from sunlight, wind, possible rain, and prying eyes.  Simply keeping things out of sight can provide a certain level of  "security by obscurity" and reduce thefts of opportunity.  Whenever you haul cargo outside your vehicle make sure it is securely anchored so it doesn't blow or bounce off during travel.  Avoid putting heavy items on roof racks.  Getting it up and down risks injury and having heavy loads up high can affect vehicle handling and could damage the roof.

A lightweight utility trailer isn't hard to come by.  Many home centers sell small trailers for home use and for transporting lawn mowers and other power yard equipment.  If you have a bent for do-it-yourself projects you can build your own trailer using trailer kits like those available at Harbor Freight.  They have kits for different size trailers.  A popular size is 48"x96", just right for a single sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the floor.  It is small enough and light enough to be pulled by a small vehicle yet large enough to carry almost all the camping gear you will need for the average family.  Flat bed trailers or utility trailers or even enclosed box trailers are all good possibilities.  What you choose will depend on your individual needs, budget, and availability.  Flat beds make it easy to load and unload wheeled toys.  Utility trailers help keep things secure in transit without having to tie them down.   You may be able to tarp both flat bed trailers and utility trailers to protect your gear against sun and rain.   Enclosed trailers provide the most security for your gear on the road and in camp and provide convenient extra protection against the weather.  You can often find small, inexpensive trailers for sale on craigslist.org.  I have used old tent trailers that were repurposed as motorcycle or utility trailers.  You might pick up an older tent trailer with a ruined tent pretty cheap (maybe even free!) and strip it down to make a utility trailer.

I have a camping trailer that started life as an Apache tent trailer.  Someone before me had completely gutted the little trailer to turn it into a utility trailer.  I actually got it for free on craigslist.  It needed a little work (including a LOT of cleaning and a new paint job to match our Jeep) and I upgraded from 10" wheels and tires to 12" for extra road clearance and an added safety margin.  One advantage to this particular trailer is that is has a clam-shell top that completely closes it during travel.  On one of our first trips we encountered very heavy rain.  So heavy there was about 2" of standing water on the freeway on a 6% grade!  Once out of the storm we pulled off the freeway and opened the clam-shell to access and mitigate the damage and were pleasantly surprised to find only 2 or 3 drops had gotten inside!  The clam-shell can even be locked for extra security.  It also gives us a convenience place to haul and store our camping equipment so it saves storage space in the garage and is always ready to go.

Packing your camping trailer may take some fore-thought and a little practice.    Basically you will want to load the heaviest components over the axle but you will need to maintain a certain amount of weight on the tongue to keep the connection secure and to avoid swaying.  Tongue weight for most small trailers should be in the range of 200-300 lbs but ultimately will depend on the overall trailer weight and how the load is distributed.   If there isn't enough tongue weight on the hitch (shoot for about 10% of the total loaded weight) the trailer may sway back and forth, kind of like the tail wagging the dog.  If there is too much weight on the tongue (more than about 15%) your vehicle may become less responsive, especially when turning and braking.  You may have to take your loaded trailer to a weigh station to find out how much it weighs.  You might be able to use a home bathroom scale to weigh the tongue, but use caution.  If it is too heavy for the scale you can damage the scale.  Trailer sway can be a serious problem.  My family and I have experienced at least two significant accidents due to excessive sway.  In one case the 28' toy hauler trailer  my son was pulling was too big and too heavy for the 1/2  ton pickup pulling it when it got caught in heavy crosswinds.  The other problem occurred when one of the bunk boards holding our sailboat broke, dumping the boat onto one of the fenders and crushing it down onto the tire so it created excessive drag on one side causing the trailer to sway.

Plastic tubs are a good way to pack and organize the things you put into your trailer.  Things like tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and camp chairs can usually be loaded in their own factory bags or even as is but cooking gear, provisions, linens, and clothing will be safer and easier to manage in plastic tubs.  I prefer translucent tubs so I can sort of see what is inside.  If you use opaque tubs you might want to label each one with what is inside to make it faster and easier to locate stuff in camp.

If you store your camping gear at home in your camping trailer be sure you remove perishable items between trips.  Putting perishables in a separate plastic tub makes this a lot easier.  Also make sure all your equipment is cleaned up before putting it away.  Left over food scraps will attract all kinds of pests, from microbes to raccoons and bears.  Microbes will turn scraps into nasty rotten messes and larger pests can do considerable damage to your gear and maybe even your trailer.  Bears have even been know to break into locked cars in search of food.  Animals in search of food may not be able to smell the difference between a few leftover crumbs and a whole sandwich, so cleaning everything up is critical!

Camping trailers can sometimes find additional uses in camp.  Once the gear has been unloaded you might put up a pipe frame to support a tarp over the top of an open trailer to provide a nice kind of pavilion to keep you out of the sun and rain and up off wet ground.  Some people even add sides or set up a free-standing tent in the trailer and use it as an off-the-ground shelter.   Not quite as complete as a tent trailer, but a step above sleeping on the ground.  You probably should not plan to cook in it, just as you normally would not cook in your tent, but it can make a safe and comfortable place to get out of the weather and for sleeping and to protect your personal gear.  Sometimes even an empty utility trailer makes a good playpen for younger children you might want to keep up off the ground and away from snakes and insects on the ground in many remote campgrounds.  You can install an awning on a box trailer to provide patio shade and protection from light rain in camp.  For an economy awning you might make your own using an inexpensive tarp and arms made from PVC pipe.  Similar canopies can be installed over the bed of open trailers.

If you use an open utility trailer you will want to tarp it to protect your gear against rain.  Having it tarped also provides a little bit of "security by obscurity" by keep your desirable items out of sight, reducing the chance of some passerby helping themselves to your property and helps minimize getting dust and dirt in your gear.  If you haven a enclosed trailer (like our little Apache trailer or a box trailer) you might even use the trailer for permanent storage at home.  Not only does that save space in your garage, shed, or basement, it keeps everything all packed and ready for your next trip.  Be sure you have a tongue lock or other security so it can't be easily stolen!

Some accessories you might want to add to your camping trailer might include a portable toilet (Portpotti) and a chuck box.  Portable toilets will give you comfortable sanitation where ever you go and a chuck box makes a good portable kitchen for use in camp.  A camping trailer may also give you room to carry extra tools you might need in camp or on the road.   I have a large, heavy-duty vinyl bag I use to carry firewood.  Firewood can also be carried in a box or even laid loose where ever there is extra room between items in your trailer, but having it in its own container keeps things cleaner and makes the wood easier to collect for your campfire.  Having a trailer may give you room to carry cots to make sleeping more comfortable.

Loading your trailer.  I talked a little bit a few paragraphs above about using plastic tubs to load and organize your camping trailer.  The other thing you will want to do is put the things you need to get to first when you get to camp where they are easily accessible.  Normally you will probably want get out your tent and camp chairs first, perhaps along with a canopy or dining fly for shade.  Sleeping bags should go into the tent once it is set up.  All your kitchen gear and supplies should be easy to get to because you may very well be more than ready for a good meal after your travels.  Lanterns and flashlights should be close at hand in case you arrive at your destination after dark.  Heavy tools usually find a good home somewhere near the bottom of things and often kind of out of the way since you probably won't be using them right away or often.   While placement for convenience is important, it should never override the need to load the trailer for correct balance and a proper tongue weight.d  Also make sure things are loaded so any shift during travel won't damage items or the trailer.

Used trailers can be a good option.  Few of us get to go camping as often as we would like and even personal utility trailers probably get little use so used trailers and likely to still have plenty of miles left in them.  Check out your local craigslist to look for bargains in your area.  Things to check will be tires, brakes (if so equipped), hitch, lights, safety chains, springs, an door/tailgate latches.  Tires will often look very good but may have ''aged out'', so check the date of manufacture.  Tires typically have a maximum usable life of around 6-10 years, depending on how they have been stored or protected.  If you are looking at box trailers, also look for any signs of leakage.  Check to make sure the floor is solid.  Used trailers might have been commercially made or homemade.  Homemade trailers can be very good trailers but you may want to pay special attention to how they are constructed.  A popular option for homemade utility trailers is to mount an old pick up bed on an axle.  The axle may be a trailer axle or an old car axle.  Old car axles are very sturdy but also add a lot of weight.  Commercial axles come in different weight ratings so make sure the axle is strong enough to handle the weight of your trailer and anything you plan to haul in it.  Most single axles are rated at 3500 lbs but you can find heavier duty models.  My custom made enclosed motorcycle trailer is on a single axle that has a 5500 lb rating.  You want to be sure whatever you buy will have the capacity you need (cubic feet of storage and weight rating) to handle whatever you need it to carry.  In most cases, almost any trailer is going to have more than enough capacity to haul all the camping equipment you need for the average family.  If you plan to haul ATVs or any other large, heavy pieces of equipment or have an unusually large family or regular camping group, you may need a larger trailer.  I once picked up an old 19'construction office trailer to haul camping equipment and dirt bikes.  It was big, ugly and heavy but it was cheap and it did the job.

Make sure the vehicle you use to tow your trailer is properly configured with a correct hitch for the trailer weight, has adequate power, tires, and suspension, and has appropriate connections for trailer lights and safety chains.  Trailer brakes may be required on heavier trailers, along with brake controllers on the tow vehicle.  Surge brakes are an alternative that provides self-contained brakes on moderate sized trailers.  Surge brakes use a special, articulated hitch on the tongue that pushes a rod into a brake master cylinder to apply the brakes on the trailer whenever the trailer pushes against the hitch as the tow vehicle slows or stops.

Small, light-weight trailers may or may not have to be licensed.  Some states required ALL trailers to be licensed, but some only require licenses on trailers over a certain loaded weight.  An unlicensed trailer may save you annual registration fees, but having it licensed may guard against theft or make it easier to identify and reclaim your trailer if it is stolen.  Normally if you are towing an unlicensed trailer with a licensed vehicle from the state of residence where the trailer license is not required, you will not need to have a license even a state where residents are required to license all trailers.  However, having the license might prevent you from getting pulled over from time to time when driving out of your state since local law enforcement might not know your home state regulations.  You may be able to defend against a traffic ticket but avoiding the potential problems in the first place might well be worth the modest cost of registering the trailer, even it isn't required in your home state.

Haul away!

General Camp Site Lighting

It can get REALLY dark in camp.  Most of us live in urban or suburban environments with lots of street lights and light pollution from office buildings, shopping malls, parking lots, traffic, and neighbor's homes and have no idea how dark it can be on a moonless night in a remote area.   Even if you aren't within the glow of streetlights etc, the reflection off clouds or even air pollution creates a glow from remote cities etc. that usually illuminates the darkness to some extent in urban and suburban areas.  It can be surprising -- even frightening for some people -- how dark it gets when you get away from the city!  Moonless nights in the desert or forest are extremely dark.   Deep woods often filter enough moonlight to make it almost like there is no moon at ground level in some forests, even when there is a full moon.   If you are an RVer, you will usually have some built-in indoor lighting (as long as your batteries hold up).  Most RVs have one or more outside "porch" lights that illuminate the area next to the RV entrance.  For more distant activities or for tent camping you'll need portable light sources.  Some older travel trailers and truck campers had propane powered lights but you aren't likely to see them very often these days.  Even units that did have them have often been converted entirely to 12-volt lighting long ago.  One feature of propane lights was that they gave off quite a bit of heat, helping to warm a camper on chilly evenings, but during warmer times that was a distinct disadvantage.

Flashlights are one of the least expensive and most convenient and versatile sources of portable illumination.  You can often even find them at "dollar" stores.  These plastic bargains are usually not very durable but they can provide many hours of illumination at a very low cost.  They are also an attractive option if you have people (like children) who tend to break or lose track of things easily. The loss or destruction of a $1.00 flashlight is no big deal.  Dollar stores often  have fairly nice little aluminum pocket LED flashlights that are fairly durable, efficient, and quite attractive.  There are also high-end flashlights made of aircraft grade aluminum that are far more durable and often even waterproof, but they can be quite expensive -- upwards of $25-$50.  Cheap flashlights are usually not adjustable; better units can often be adjusted so the beam casts a spot light or flood light pattern. Flashlights are ideal for individual use in moving around in the dark and for many camp tasks. Traditional flashlights use a small incandescent bulb but today you can also buy flashlights with multiple LEDs that use far less power and both batteries and the LEDs last a lot longer than when using ordinary bulbs.  My wife and I both carry small, LED flashlights powered by AA or AAA batteries in our fanny packs and/or tool kits when we go dirt biking.  They will provide much needed illumination for any after-dark repairs on the trail and for signaling if needed.  We used to use regular "mini-mag" lights.  They are sturdy and effective but the little LED lights don't weigh as much and don't take up as much room and the batteries in the LED lights will last a lot longer and LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs.   In addition to a standard on-off switch, most flashlights have a push-button that can be used to turn the light on momentarily to aid in signaling.  You should at least know the Morse Code signal for S.O.S. -- three dots, three dashes, three dots.  When signalling with a light that means three quick flashes, three slow flashes, and three quick flashes.  Urban myths equate S.O.S. to Save Our Souls or Save Our Ship, but it reality it was simply the ease of signally S.O.S. in Morse code that led to the use of S.O.S. for an emergency signal.  The cute, if historically inaccurate, phrases now associated with it do serve as useful memory aids.

Multi-purpose lights.  As with just about any camping gadget, multi-purpose lights are attractive since they can serve many uses without the weight and space requirements of separate items.  One I've found particularly convenient came from Harbor Freight. It is an LED light with a focused LED spot light on one end and a bank of LEDs in a flood light configuration on one flat side. It cost under $3.00 with a coupon. It measures about 2"x3"x3/4", is light weight, and takes up little space in pocket, purse or pack, yet provides a lot of light. It has a built in plastic hook so you can hang it in your tent on or a convenient branch. It also has a magnet if you need to attach it to your vehicle -- or your camp stove.  Some larger camp lanterns also feature both spot and flood light options. Keep your eye out for potentially useful items everywhere you go.  I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns shaped like old-fashioned kerosene lanterns at a discount store for $10 each and small solar camping lanterns for just $2.00 each.  The kerosene style lanterns have 17 LEDs, a dimmer for controlling brightness, and run on 3 "D" cell batteries.  I once left one on in my barn overnight and it was still bright the next day when I discovered it and turned it off and was still functional for months afterwards.  Leave an ordinary incandescent battery light on overnight and you'll have dead batteries by morning.   I've even seen a single incandescent bulb left on in an RV drain the big 12-volt deep cycle house battery in an afternoon!

Wide area lighting may be needed for some activities, such as preparing, serving, and eating meals and for many games, chopping wood, or repairing equipment.  Some RVs are or can be equipped with wide-angle lighting but the traditional camp standard is the gas lantern.   The long-time standard camping lantern is the Coleman gas lantern, but today's lanterns come in many sizes, shapes, and fuel choices.  Some of my favorite exterior lights came off of an old ambulance.  They provide excellent flood lighting for night time repairs and other activities, but the bulbs are difficult to find and quite expensive.  Fortunately, they are quite durable.

Awning lights are popular for use on RV awnings.   Some folks string 120-volt patio lanterns along the accessory rail on the awning.   Smaller strings, similar to Christmas lights are also frequently used.  You can find these in various camping themes like mini Coleman lanterns, American flags, and chili peppers.  You could even use ordinary Christmas lights.  Awning lights provide festive illumination for activities under or near your RV awning.  The latest additions include programmable, multi-colored LED rope lights that can put on quite a show.  LED lights will use less power than incandescent versions and won't heat up and possibly damage the awning fabric.  One word of caution when using awning lights:  be considerate of your neighbors.  Excessive lighting might intrude into their space.

White-gas or propane powered lanterns provide a bright white light almost like an electric light bulb.   They also produce quite a bit of heat.  A friend of mine used one as the only heat source for his Class B motorhome on cool evenings.  They might be enough to take the chill off in your motorhome or tent, but always make sure you have adequate ventilation or you could succumb to fumes or suffocate due to lack of oxygen.  One other significant feature of these lanterns is that the mantles are quite fragile. They are made of silk ash.  When they are new they are little silk mesh socks you tie onto the gas outlets of the lanterns.  They are then burned to turn them into ash, which glows brightly when the gas is lit, giving off the characteristic bright white light.  Always bring plenty of spare mantles.  It doesn't take much to break them once they've been burned.  Anytime you use a gas lantern inside an RV or tent or other confined space make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation (yes, it is worth repeating -- repeating and repeating!).

Kerosene lanterns lend an old-fashioned touch to camping.  They are a little less fragile than gas lanterns because they use a standard, sturdy cotton wick instead of the delicate silk ash mantle.  The wick also makes them a little more flexible in the level of light than gas lanterns. They are not nearly as bright and the light is not as white as a gas lantern, but they are economical to purchase and to operate and lend a nice ambiance.  They are usually less expensive to buy than gas lanterns, often under $10. At one time the fuel was commonly used in many homes for lanterns and heaters so everyone already had fuel.  It is seldom used in our urban and suburban homes today but it is still readily available.  One potential downside is that kerosene gives off a distinctive odor similar to jet fuel (which is actually kerosene).   If you don't like the smell of burning kerosene you can burn fragrant lamp oils or odorless "liquid paraffin".   Use citronella oil to help keep the bugs away.   You can usually find kerosene lanterns at farm and ranch stores, at some sporting goods stores and I've even seen them at Walmart.

There are many battery powered lanterns available where ever camping goods are sold.  Some use square 6-volt batteries, some use multiple "D" or "C" cells, some are rechargeable.  Some even have built-in solar chargers to recharge them during the day.  You can even get lanterns with remote controls so you can turn them off after you've already snuggled into your sleeping bag.  One of my favorite tent lights is very small and runs on "AAA" batteries.   It has a florescent tube for area lighting and a focused bulb on one end so it can be used as a directed flashlight.  It is small enough to fit easily into a shirt pocket or fanny pack (about the size of  three ball point pens) and runs on two "AAA" batteries.  These days I'd look for an LED model.   LEDs are much cooler and significantly more efficient than incandescent bubls.   I recently acquired a couple of LED lanterns designed to look like kerosene lanterns.  They have 17 LEDs on a dimmer switch, powered by 3 D cell batteries. The LEDs have a projected life of over 100,000 hours and the way LEDs sip energy, the 3 D cells will last a long time. I've already used them at home for several hours and they show no signs of degradation.  I even left one on overnight in my barn and it was still burning bright the next morning when I went out.  Try that with ordinary incandescent lights and the batteries would be dead dead dead by morning.

Candles are another old-fashioned and inexpensive lighting solution.  Citronella candles on your picnic table also help keep bugs away.  Exercise caution when using candles inside of an RV and be especially careful or avoid using them altogether in your tent.  Candles are very susceptible to breezes.   There are lantern-like candle holders that protect the flame from the breeze and to some extent, provide extra safety if the candle gets knocked over. Candles give off some dangerous fumes and do consume oxygen, so always use them with adequate ventilation.  You can make your own decorative candle "lanterns" from discarded tin or aluminum cans by punching a design into them using an awl or ordinary nails.  Some folks like to paint them flat black so they look more like lanterns.

Tiki torches are often used for back yard and patio illumination and, if you have room to bring them camping, they would provide a nice touch to an evening's activities.  Use some citronella oil in the them and they double as insect repellant.  Do not use tiki torches inside a tent or RV or under an awning or canopy.  If space is at a premium, look for torches that can be broken down into small components you can tuck them in cabinets or camping tubs more easily.  I've seen large candles on a stick that are designed for similar backyard or camping use.

Solar lights provide a safe and energy efficient way to have modest illumination in camp.   They aren't going to light up the campground like a baseball stadium, but they are sufficient to light the pathways, mark tent pegs, and even illuminate your camp stove and dinner table.  And they aren't expensive.   I've even seen them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.  Some were stake-style yard lights and some were designed to look like little rocks (except for the solar panel on top and the lens on one side).  You can probably add a bail or handle and remove the stakes on the yard or pathway lights so you can hang them in your tent or from your RV awning.  I even found a couple of solar powered tent lights at a discount store for $2.00 each.  They are each about the size of a soup can but are sufficient for comfortable tent lighting -- unless you're doing something that requires more intense light, like needle work or surgery!

Custom camp lights can be as creative as you feel like being.  Some of the innovations I've seen and used include bright white flood lights salvaged from a wrecked ambulance and mounted to the wall of my RV and trailer to light up the work area around my motorcycle trailer and a 500-watt 120 volt Halogen yard work light I mounted on a staff that fastens to the ladder of my motorhome when we want to light up the whole campsite for group activities.  Many RVers attach strings of festive lights to their awnings. These are usually more for decoration than illumination, yet can still provide a nice glow for your "patio party" and are available in a variety of shapes and colors.  One of my favorites for general camping is a Christmas light like string of tiny lights shaped like Coleman lanterns.  You might choose lighted chilis for a Mexican themed party or American flags for the 4th of July. The possibilities are endless.   Ordinary Christmas lights could also be used. I suggest going for the new LED lights.  They have bright colors, use little power, and don't get hot like incandescent bulbs, reducing the risk of scorching your awning or canopy -- or your fingers should you happen to touch one.   Rope lights are also popular as awning lights.   Plain white provides comfortable illumination and there are some fancy (but somewhat pricey) multi-colored version with multiple flash patterns and remote controls.

Work lights of various sorts may be needed.   If you have a generator you might use an ordinary drop light, but there are LED,  florescent and incandescent 12-volt work lights you can buy for use on battery power in and around your RV or other vehicle. Some use flashlight batteries and are completely portable; some plug into your 12 volt socket.   A camping lantern can also be used for illuminating a general work area and an ordinary flashlight can be used in close quarters.

Chemical light sticks are good for markers to highlight obstacles or people and to provide some light for moving around.   They usually aren't bright enough for reading or any serious activities, such as cooking, repairing equipment, or playing board or card games.   I did find they were a good substitute for the burning sticks the kids liked to drag out of the fire and wave around.   They lasted longer and eliminated the danger of someone or something getting accidentally set on fire!  I tried attaching them to our "Desert Rat" signs at night to help guide latecomers to camp, but kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them.  I keep one in my fanny pack (safely stored in a short piece of PVC pipe capped on both ends (but not glued).  It may not provide a lot of light for emergency night time repairs on the trail, but it would be better than nothing and any kind of light can provide comfort if you're stuck out for very long.   They can be used for signaling and may even help keep wild animals away.  A light stick is usually adequate to light your way to the latrine at night too.

Strobe lights are sometimes used as markers to aid late arrivals in locating our OHV camps in the desert.  The ones I've used for years are dome-shaped units with suction cups on the bottom and are wired to plug into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle on the outside of my motorcycle trailer.   I've seen really fancy LED "starburst" lights designed for the top of a flagpole that would be even more visible from a distance.  Of course you wouldn't want to use something that bright in a developed campground where it would annoy your fellow campers but it works well in the open desert where we usually have plenty of space between camps.

Natural light.  Moonlight is often adequate for many camp activities when the moon is near full. I've seen it light enough during a full moon in the desert to even ride OHVs (cautiously) without needing headlights.  During a new moon you'll need supplemental light sources, unless you and your companions have the eyes of a cat!   For best results, avoid wiping out your night vision by exposing your eyes to bright lights inside your RV.  When you first step out of a brightly lit RV into a moonlit night, you'll be nearly blind for several minutes until your eyes adapt to the darkness.  If you do need temporary auxiliary light, try using a red filter on your flashlight.   That will usually let you see what you need to see with minimal affect on night vision.   A red flashlight would be useful for illuminating the firewood pile so you don't mess up your night vision.    I find using red filters especially helpful when working with telescopes for star gazing.  They provide sufficient light to assemble and adjust the optics and read star charts and don't trigger the restriction of the pupils like bright white does.

Firelight retains the ambiance of camping.  For large gatherings, a big bonfire might be appropriate.  For more intimate occasions, keep the fire small and add a few Tiki torches if you need more light.  You can fuel the Tiki torches with citronella lamp oil to help keep the bugs away so they're especially good around the picnic table or other eating or sitting areas.  Sometimes having several small fires is more effective and efficient than one big one.

Tent lighting.   I strongly favor battery powered lights for use in tents and other small enclosed spaces.  Any kind of flame-powered light includes the risk of setting the tent on fire and suffocation as the flame consumes available oxygen.  If you MUST use your Coleman or kerosene lantern in a tent, exercise extreme caution and keep a couple of windows open an inch or two for cross ventilation.  Just touching the hot glass globe to a tent wall or sleeping bag can melt it beyond repair, so be VERY careful using any kind of flame device inside a tent.  The close quarters in most tents means you have to be careful not to touch the lantern globe.   It becomes VERY hot and will blister your skin instantly.   My favorite tent light is powered by a couple of AA batteries and includes a spot light and a general illumination flood light.  An LED version would be ideal since the batteries will last longer.

Searchlights and spotlights can be helpful in locating a remote camp when boondocking and for searching for errant campers who may have wandered away from camp in the dark.   Remote control searchlights mount on the roof of RVs and usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings so they can be used for general camp site lighting in "flood" mode or as a beacon or search light in "spot" mode  (helpful finding signs).  Though not as popular as they once were, spotlights that can be mounted on the windshield post of many vehicles can help locating signs and landmarks when searching for a remote camp at night.  In a pinch you might use them to light up an area for after-dark equipment maintenance.   Portable spotlights can also come in handy.  I've seen them with ratings in the range of 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 candle power, having range up to a mile!  I've seen some that used ordinary flashlight batteries, some that are 12-volt powered (connect to a 12-volt cigarette light style receptacle) and even some that are rechargeable.

Trail lighting.  Many ATVs are equipped with headlights so night time operation is often viable. Dirt bikes (especially those designed for motocross), on the other hand, usually don't have headlights unless they are Enduro style bikes or have been modified.  The magnetos on many dirt bikes are not designed to handle the demands of lighting so you may have to upgrade the electrical system if you plan to add lights.  Baja Designs provides light kits for most off-road bikes.  A friend of mine upgraded the electrics on his dirt bike and added a 55 watt halogen driving light as a headlight.  Man, did that light up the trail! We called it the "bush burner".  In an emergency I've seen guys tape flashlights to their handlebars, front fenders, or helmets, but the light pattern is very limited and most flashlights won't last long,  especially given the constant bouncing and vibration to say nothing of the quick battery drain by incandescent bulbs. Unless they are LED flashlights they will drain the batteries pretty quickly, leaving you in the dark again. I picked up a specially designed helmet mounted light but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Chemical light sticks might be used to make the vehicle more visible but they won't provide enough light to see where you're going. Flashlights are very good options for night time hiking. You should have at least one on your person on any hike, just in case you are out after dark. In an emergency you might use duct tape or cable ties to secure a flashlight to the handlebars or front fender of your OHV for at least some lighting.

Emergency signaling.  If you get lost or your OHV breaks down and you're stuck out on the trails after dark, it may be a good idea to just stay put if you can't see where you're going unless you are in immediate danger if you stay where you are.  A flashlight or light stick can make you and your vehicle more visible to searchers or any other riders who may come along and you may be able to use them to flash an "S O S" (three short, three long, three short flashes).  If you think you'll be stuck out for any length of time or all night, you may want to try to get a fire going.   Fire will keep you warm, provide a visible signal for potential rescuers, and keep animals away.  If you use fuel from your OHV to start the fire, make sure your OHV is far enough away from the fire to avoid lighting it up -- and make sure the fuel is shut off before moving your OHV!   For a couple of examples of the consequences of failing to follow this advice, check out the movies "On Any Sunday" and On Any Sunday II".   In "On Any Sunday" the rider manages to set his bike on fire because it is too close to his signal fire.  In "On Any Sunday II" he carefully moves the bike a safe distance away before lighting his fire -- but he had disconnected the fuel line to soak the wood to make getting his fire going easier and forgot to shut it off, leaving a trail of fuel from the fire pit to his bike.  He lights his fire, it snakes a long the trail and "Poof!" his bike once again goes up in flames. On the one hand, a burning bike, will probably make a very good signal, especially once the magnesium parts start burning.   On the other hand, that's a pretty expensive signal fire!   It may be kind of amusing to watch in the movie, but I doubt if any of us would be laughing if it happened to us.  And once those magnesium parts start to burn you're going to have a heck of time putting out the fire without a Class D fire extinguisher.

Light it up!

Wranglerstar on Youtube -- A Good Resource For Campers

I have found an excellent source of woodsman information on the Youtube videos by  Wranglerstar.  You might not find him under camping or RVing.  His focus is on modern homesteading and he covers a wide range of useful subjects, from how to sharpen tools, to felling trees, and construction techniques and he frequently reviews and tests tools, often at the request of his viewers.  Many of the skills and much of the information he provides can be directly applied to camping and RVing.  Just go to Youtube and search for Wranglerstar.  I have found his videos to be entertaining as well as educational and many of the skills he presents can be directly applied to camping.  He has over 2000 videos online and is constantly adding new videos so be sure to check back regularly.  He has reviewed a number of Harbor Freight Tools and tells you what works and what doesn't.

Wranlgerstar rocks!

Spare Parts for RVs, OHVs, Boats, and Camping

Over the years I've found it useful to maintain a supply of spare parts for my RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.   The first dirt bike trip we took I didn't even have spare spark plugs for our dirt bikes -- a definite problem for 2-stroke engines that foul plugs quite easily.   I soon learned to carry not only spare spark plugs, but spare brake and clutch levers, master links to repair broken chains, spare inner tubes, and a variety of nuts and bolts to keep things together.   I also find it helpful to stock spare parts for camping equipment.  Stoves, lanterns, tents, sleeping bags, and backpacks all need repair sooner or later and it is REALLY nice to have the right parts and patches already on hand. Being able to repair things on the spot can prevent damage from getting worse as well as saving your outing.

Some basic RV or other vehicle parts I recommend everyone should carry include fan belts and radiator and heater hoses.  I also carry a thermocouple or two in case I need to fix a furnace, water heater, or refrigerator.  They are only used on older units.  Newer appliances with computer controls use a thermal sensor instead of a thermocouple.  Extra hose washers are good to have, especially if you have access to city water hookups.   Extra nuts, bolts, and screws of various sizes also come in handy. A universal faucet repair kit or a "storehouse" of faucet washers can also be useful if something starts to leak out in the boondocks.  An extra dump valve is essential if yours is prone to get knocked off. Some hang down way too low and are all too frequently damaged.   I like to carry a couple of compression elbows and compression sleeves in case something happens to the fresh water tubing.  Spare light bulbs for all the different light fixtures will definitely come in handy.  Most RV incandescent lights use a standard, single contact, automotive 1146 bulb.   I like to carry some spare, dual contact 1157s for tail/stop and park/turn signal lights too.  Some extra dash lights will let you see your instruments and some clearance marker bulbs may be needed from time to time.   Might save you an unscheduled stop by a highway patrolman and perhaps even avoid a fix-it ticket.  Check your owners manual or pull some sample bulbs to be sure of the part numbers you need for each application.  You might find LED equivalents that would reduce power usage.

Spare OHV parts will be determined by the type of OHVs you have and what kind of things typically go wrong -- and by the kinds of repairs you are comfortable with or capable of doing.  I've found that spare spark plugs, spare levers, and spare inner tubes are basic items and have saved many a weekend outing.   Spare fasteners are essential since things tend to come loose frequently out on the trails.   When I first started riding I had to get a handful of spare nuts and bolts from the mechanic at my motorcycle dealer.  Today you can buy nice little compartmentalized boxes of fasteners specifically selected for the needs of most dirt bikes and ATVs by brand at your local motorcycle/ATV shop.  The $20-$50 you invest will pay itself back in only a few outings and is sure to me far less than you'd pay if  you had to take your machine in for repairs.  Having the right parts makes repairs easier.  Not only will they look and fit better, you avoid possible further damage by trying to make do with fasteners with the wrong threads or ones that are too long or otherwise incorrect.  If you can't find a ready-made kit for your ride, get a "storehouse" of metric fasteners from your local hardware store or Harbor Freight or just buy a handful of the size you use most frequently at your local hardware store.  They may not be as cosmetically correct as factory parts or the ones from branded kits, but at least they'll hold things together until you can get home and get the right parts. 

Likewise, the spare parts you need on a boat will depend on the type of boat.  The things you need on a sailboat will be different than what you need on a power boat.  Basic spare parts for a sailboat include shackles, sail tape, and rope repair items.  Parts for a power boat will depend on the type of motor and other features on board.  Hose clamps are usually a good idea to have around if you have any plumbing on board.

What kind of spare parts do you need for your camping equipment?   Extra tent pegs are always good to have on hand.  Extra tent poles could also be helpful.  A grommet kit for repairing or adding grommets to tents or tarps is always useful.  A tent repair kit is essential.  They usually include nylon patches for fixing tears in the tent fabric and some netting to fix holes in screens.   These patches can usually be used to repair sleeping bags and nylon jackets as well.  Some of the patches are self adhesive and very easy to use.   For sturdier and more permanent repairs bring along a heavy duty sewing kit, which should include an awl as well as large needles and strong thread.   Some tent repair kits include parts to repair fiberglass shock-corded tent poles or you can buy tent pole repair kits.  Spare parts for your Coleman lanterns and stoves are essential.  Lantern mantles are quite fragile and it is not unusual to go through several pairs in a single weekend outing.  Repair kits for the pumps for gas lanterns and stoves are fairly small and inexpensive and can save an outing.  Generators for lanterns and stoves run about $12-$15 but are worth much more than that if you need one unexpectedly.   If you have any backpacks, spare anchor pins that hold the canvas to the frame and buckles for the belts and straps are items that are frequently lost or broken on the trail.  Extra rope for tying down your tent or securing tarps should be on your list.  I also like to have a handful of "cord locks", those little spring thingies that hold sleeping bag cords tight when the bag is rolled up.   You can often buy them in bulk at bargain prices on ebay.  I paid $1.50 for 2 at a local sporting goods store when I needed some right away.  Later I found a package of 50 for $3.45 and free shipping on ebay so I'm stocking up for future needs . A ball of binder's twine will always find many uses around camp.   Stocking spare batteries and bulbs for your flashlights should go without saying.

Purchasing ALL the spare parts you may need at one time could be quite expensive so you may want to make a list and do a few things at a time.  That also allows you to keep an eye out for bargain prices on the things you need to stock up on.  You should prioritize your list so you can get the most important things first, but buying least expensive things first or taking advantage of special sales are also good strategies.  If you see something that isn't on your list but you think will be useful, grab it while you can!  Otherwise you'll soon be kicking yourself out on the trail when you need it.   I don't think I have EVER looked at a tool or spare part in my trailer, RV, or fanny pack and said "Gee, I wish I hadn't bought that" but there have been MANY times I've been in the position to say "Gee, I wish I had gotten that when I had the chance!"   I have found ebay to be a good source for many tools and spare parts for RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.

Anyway you cut it, having spare parts on hand will save time and often save money as well as avoid untimely interruptions of your activities.  Feel free to expand on the items suggested in this article to include anything that you think will make your outings less stressful and more successful.  If you find you repeatedly need certain things during your trips or have to make trips to town or the camp store for things, add them to your supplies.  In the long run it will save you money as well as time and frustration.

Stock up!

2 Wheeled Bug Out Vehicles?

 When we think of bug out vehicles we usually think of trucks, SUVs, or RVs that can carry us and a lot of survival equipment.  You may see highly equipped, very expensive, 4WD all terrain vehicles advertised as bug out vehicles.  Most of them are way beyond what the average camper or prepper could ever afford -- or would ever need for that matter.  Moreover, they may not even be very useful, depending on where you are, the nature of the disaster, and whether these humongous vehicles will be able to fit through places restricted by devastation.  However, there are other options that might be more versatile.   For example, I keep my dirt bikes ready to use at any time.  If roads are impassable due to an earthquake or flooding, I can use my dirt bike to get to safety through or around all kinds of terrain that would stop just about any other kind of vehicle.  It can also be used as a messenger vehicle during a local emergency where normal roads are impassable.  If you prefer an ATV or side-by-side, it too could provide options to go places where a normal street legal vehicle can't.  You' might want to find a way to attach some kind of hitch to the frame of the dirt bike or ATV.  Towing a trailer will limit some of the places you can go but it will give you the ability to carry a lot more survival gear with you.  You might also consider a luggage rack or saddle bags for extra carrying capacity.

An option seldom considered is a bicycle.  Too often we think of them only as toys or exercise machines, but in many parts of the world they are still a primary means of transportation.  Bicycles have several advantages.  They are not terribly expensive (unless you go for fancy road racers or competition level mountain bikes), they require no fuel other than the rider, they are light weight so you can carry them through terrain too rough to ride through.  A good bike could be your best bet for escaping an unsafe situation.  You don't see too many folks pulling trailers with bicycles (except in third world countries), but it is possible and would increase your cargo capacity.  If you are in average physical condition you should be able to pull up to 600 lbs on flat ground, which gives you considerably more room to bring along what you need than you'd have in even the biggest back pack.   The recommended back pack weight is usually about half the weight of the person carrying it, which will significantly limit what you can carry safely.  The capacity of a trailer over hills and rough terrain would, of course, be less than the 600 lbs over flat ground, but still much more than you could comfortably carry on your back.  If you decide to include a bicycle in your survival gear, the best bet would be a mountain bike, with off road tires and multiple gears.  Racing bikes are great on pavement, but the narrow tires wouldn't handle damaged roads or going off road if necessary very well.  A cruiser style bike will have tires capable of handling more types of terrain but usually are only one speed so they wouldn't be as good for negotiating hills or heavy loads.  As with a dirt bike, you will probably have to engineer your own trailer hitch if you do decide to pull a small trailer or you might want to add a luggage rack or saddle bags.   The little baby carriers you see towed behind bicycles might make a good starting place for bicycle hitches and trailers.  Bicycle baskets that attach to the handle bars can carry some things.

Saddlebags are another option for carrying extra gear on a bicycle.  Mounting beside the rear wheel puts the center of gravity of the bags and their contents fairly low so they don't affect handling as much as a handle bar basket or even wearing a back pack.

You will need a pretty small trailer to use behind a dirt bike or bicycle.  There are some trailers designed to pull behind ATVs and some for street bikes that might be a starting point.  Even a little garden cart designed to be used with riding mowers and garden tractors might work, but they usually aren't designed to be particularly light weight.  You might also consider building your own trailer from scratch.  The trailer kits you can find at places like Harbor Freight will usually be too big and too heavy for pulling behind a bike (pedal power or motorized).  You might make one from bicycle or tricycle parts or even use a child's "Radio Flyer" style wagon.  Some of these are available with big, soft, all-terrain tires designed for garden use and would adapt well for off road towing.

You will  need to limit the size of the trailer for several reasons.  First up, you don't want it to be too heavy.  The lighter the trailer, the more gear you can carry and the easier it will be to pull.  Secondly, you want something that you can pull through small spaces without difficulty.  In really difficult terrain you might even have to pull the trailer by hand or even be able to lift it over obstacles.  You will also want to make sure it is sturdy, dependable, and easy to maintain.

I have seen neat little tent trailers to pull behind ATVs that would even provide shelter, but you will sacrifice some cargo capacity if you choose one of these and they would probably be too big and heavy to reasonable tow behind a bicycle, but you might make it work behind a motorcycle.  If you need or want to be able to camp along the way, an easy, light weight, and inexpensive alternative is to toss in a small tent or maybe just a tarp you could toss over you and the trailer to protect you from hot sun or bad weather.

In a pinch you could rig a travois behind a bicycle or dirt bike to carry your gear or even transport an injured person.  You need a couple of poles lashed together at one end to attach to your bike with a tarp, blanket, or net stretched between the other two, spread out, ends to carry your load.  The advantages of a travois are primarily the ease of construction from readily available materials and the lack of moving parts that could fail.  The disadvantages include increased resistance in dragging them and fairly rapid wear on the trailing ends.   But they might be a very good option in an emergency for transporting a load or injured person a short distance.

Speaking of bicycles, I have even seen some three-wheeled rigs with a camper attached,  looking kind of like kind of pedal-powered Class C motorhome.  While those might provide the ultimate comfort for bugging out, do their height , width, and weight, they wouldn't be very practical on damaged roads or rough terrain and I, for one, would not want to try to pedal one of those up -- or down! -- much of a hill!  Likewise, there are custom made motorcycle based Class C motorhomes that would provide many of the features of a larger motorhome as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle, but might have greater range due to lower fuel consumption and, their smaller size might let them go places larger vehicles won't fit.

Here is a slick Youtube video of 15 Minicampers and Motorcylce Campers that might be useful for recreational outings as well as for an emergency bug-out.  Many of them include quite a bit of cargo capacity for carrying survival essentials.

One of the chief characteristics of survivalists is their ability to innovate.  Be innovative in your preparations as well as in your survival techniques.

Think outside the box!

Tent Flooring

Most tents these days, except pup tents and military "shelter halves", have sewn in floors.  Having a sewn in floor helps maintain the shape of the footprint of the tent and prevents drafts and critters from slithering inside when the door is zipped closed.  However, tent floors are generally not very sturdy nor completely waterproof so you always benefit from using a good ground cloth beneath your tent.  I like to use one inside my tent too.  A ground cloth beneath your tent will help protect the floor from debris and moisture.  One inside the tent helps protect the floor from damage from walking on it or setting heavy objects on it and gives you and your sleeping bags extra protection against ground moisture.  I've seen oversize outside ground cloths carelessly installed such that moisture dripping of the tent was caught on the top of the ground cloth and ran under the tent, largely defeating one of its major purposes.  If you use a ground cloth beneath your tent, make sure it doesn't extend beyond the tent walls.  One common practice among tent campers is to dig a small trench around the outside of the tent to collect any water that runs off, but that isn't always practical.  You won't want to trench around your tent when it is pitched on your lawn or the grass in a campground.

Many tents have floors made of the same light weight material as the walls and roof.  That might be good in a back packing tent where weight is a primary concern, but for larger family tents used for car camping having a sturdier floor will usually yield better protection and last longer, if you can find one with a sturdier floor.   Some tents do have sturdier "bath tub"floors.  Some I have seen appear to be better at retaining water that leaks through the tent than in keeping ground water out!   For the most part you'll still need to add ground cloths to get the extra protection you need.

Most dome tents have built in floors.  Some larger cabin tents might not.  Regardless of what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you will want to put down a ground cloth under your tent.  If it has a sewn in floor the ground cloth will protect the fabric from being damaged by rocks, twigs, and other debris.  If it doesn't have a floor at all, the ground cloth becomes the floor.  I like to use two ground cloths -- one under the tent to protect the floor from debris and one inside the tent to protect the floor from walking on it.  Having two ground cloths also helps prevent any moisture from coming through and soaking your sleeping bags or clothing and equipment left on the tent floor.

No matter what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you'll want to prepare the ground before you set up your tent.  Remove rocks, twigs, and other debris that might damage the tent or be uncomfortable to walk on or sleep on.  A leaf rake with a collapsible handle is a good tool for clearing the ground.  You might need a shovel to smooth out lumps in the dirt.  Try to avoid damp places that will let moisture accumulate under your tent or seep inside.  An ideal spot for a tent would be one that is a few inches higher than the surrounding ground so that rain or dew will drain away and not under the tent.  Grassy areas make a soft pad beneath your tent, but leaving a tent set up on grass for more than a day or so will kill the grass underneath it.  Sometimes you will notice the grass is wilted and starting to turn yellow after taking down a tent that has only been set up for a few hours.  Grass itself contains moisture that can condense on the underside of the tent floor and might wick through.

For a really luxurious tent floor cover the floor with foam "anti-fatigue" foam tiles like are normally used in front of a workbench.  They come in 2'x2' squares, are about 1/2" thick, and connect together like pieces of a jig saw puzzle.    They usually come in sets of 4 so yo may need multiple sets to cover the entire tent floor.  For example, you'll need 10 sets of 4 to cover the entire floor of an 8'x10' tent.  That could cost around $75 but if you watch for sales at home centers or Harbor Freight you and sometimes get them for $5-10 a set, bringing the cost down to as little as $50.  They will protect the floor, give an extra buffer against cold, damp ground, and provide extra padding for sleeping comfort.  You could use them beneath your tent to protect the floor from debris on the ground but I prefer using them inside where they protect the floor from items in the tent poking through.  Having them inside also keeps them cleaner, making it easier to pack them up and use them again.  Here is what to look for in your favorite home center:
 
If you don't care for the industrial look of the standard gray-black mats you can usually find brightly colored ones at home centers.  You might pay a little more for them but they will not look so industrial and might be more fun to use.



If your tent isn't an even multiple of 2' in any direction they can be easily cut to size.  They are light weight but a little bit bulky.  You won't want to take them back packing, but they can add level of comfort in base camp and when car camping. Here are some examples of the standard industrial grey/black color and brightly colored versions you can usually find at home centers.  You'll pay a little more for the colored ones, but the mood boosting contribution of the colors may be well worth the additional cost, especially if your spouse has a penchant for color coordination or interior decorating.

As in the colored tiles above, sometimes the foam tiles have straight finished edges but many have interlocking nubs all around like the grey tiles in the picture above the colored tiles.  Sometimes they come with edges that lock into the nubs to give a finished straight edge.  If not, you can still use them as-is or cut the nubs off the outside edges.

Just about any tarp can be used as a ground cloth outside or inside the tent for an extra layer of protection.  The heavier the tarp, the more protection.  A sturdy canvas tarp will provide stronger resistance to damage from rocks or sticks beneath the tent, but may be heavier to carry and stiffer to lay out.  Light weight blue "poly tarps" are better than nothing, but the heavier silver tarps or green "farm" tarps will be sturdier and last longer.  Try to match the size as closely as possible to the footprint of the tent.  If it is too large it can be folded under so it doesn't trap moisture running down the sides of the tent.  If it is too small you may have exposed edges where debris can still damage your tent floor and expose you and your equipment to the cold, camp ground. One that is just an inch or so smaller than the base of the tent should be just about right.

More on ground cloths.  The sturdier the material, the better.  Light weight "poly" tarps are inexpensive and are definitely better than nothing, but a heavier, canvas tarp will provide more protection.  When putting a ground cloth beneath your tent make sure it doesn't extend beyond the edges of the tent.  If it does, rain or dew dripping off the tent will collect on top of the ground cloth under your tent effectively negating one of the main purposes for using a ground cloth.  As I mentioned before, I like to use a second ground cloth inside my tent to ensure my sleeping bags and other gear stays dry.  It will also protect the sewn in floor against damage from walking on it and from items dropped on it.   If you have one heavy tarp and one light one, use the heavy one beneath the tent and the lighter one inside.  If you're camped where it won't damage the grass, dig a shallow trench around the outside of your tent to catch any moisture that runs off and channel it away so it doesn't seep under your tent.

Keeping the floor clean.  You can minimize damage from walking on your tent floor by keep it clean.  Tracking mud and other debris inside deposits stuff that can grind into the fabric and cut the fibers.  Use a rug or an old burlap bag outside the door to clean your feet before entering.  Sweep out your tent at least daily.  When I'm using a dome tent, I usually pick it up and shake out all the dirt when I get up each morning unless it is staked down.  If you have a cabin tent or your dome tent is securely staked down, sweep it out.  There are small "camping" brooms made just for the purpose or you can cut down a regular broom or use a whisk broom.  The shorter handle is usually necessary because of limited height inside smaller tents and it makes it easier to transport it.  Whisk brooms or shop bench brushes can also be used but will require a lot more bending over, which can be hard on your back.

Floor it!

Camping Tools and Tricks

Having a few basic tools on board your RV or tow vehicle or in your camp kit-- and some basic mechanical skills -- can mean the difference between a minor inconvenience and an extremely uncomfortable situation or even disaster. Whether your RV is motorized, you're towing a trailer with another vehicle, or you're car camping, you have a motor vehicle of some kind that will require regular maintenance and sometimes may need emergency repairs. If you don't already know now, learn how to diagnose and repair simple problems, such as a leaky radiator or heater hose or a slipping or damaged fan belt. If you are camping in a remote area, it is often a good idea to carry spare radiator and heater hoses and fan belts, since these rubber items can sometimes fail without warning. And, of course, check your belts and hoses before you leave home. If your outings include any motorized toys, make sure you gain some understanding of their mechanical components. Things that go wrong with Jet Skis and how to fix them can be quite different than the problems you might encounter with dirt bikes or ATVs.  Having done some work on your lawnmower at home might be better than nothing, but actually knowing specifics about your machines will be of most benefit.

Make sure the tools you have are appropriate to your vehicle or vehicles. If you bring motorized toys with you (dirt bikes, ATVs, Jetkis, snowmobiles, etc) they may require different tools than your main transportation. For example, I thought I was well prepared for my first dirt bike outing. For years I had carried a rather complete tool set in my RV. To my great disappointment and embarrassment, I quickly discovered that the SAE tools that were adequate for my American made motor home were totally useless on the metric fasteners on my Japanese dirt bikes. My motorcycle trailer is now equipped with a pretty complete set of both SAE and metric tools, along with specialty tools for the dirt bikes. Most tasks can be almost fun when you have the right tools and skills. Conversely, even the simplest task can be a pain the neck (or about 2' lower!) when you don't.

Relevant owners manuals are essential and shop manuals will be even more helpful if you want to do any of your own mechanical work.

Basic hand tools. If you're already a pretty good do-it-yourselfer, you probably have a good idea what tools you use most. For the newcomers, here are some suggestions:

     * Pliers
     * Screwdrivers (a variety of sizes of flat and Phillips)
     * Hammer
     * Socket set
     * Combination wrench set
     * Adjustable ("Cresent") wrenches
     * 12-volt test light
     * electrical tape

Some optional items I've found really helpful include: 

     * Diagonals (special cutting pliers)
     * Wire crimpers
     * T-handle sockets
     * T-handle allen wrenches
     * Wire tie pliers (for securing OHV hand grips)
     * Hot vulcanizing tire patch kit
     * File
     * Hair spray (to treat slipping fan belts and for installing OHV hand grips)
     * Cable ties 

Basic outdoor tools.  Some basic outdoor tools will make life around camp easier.  They would include:

     * Axe
     * Shovel
     * Rake
     * Wood splitting wedge

If you cut a lot of firewood a chain saw may also be helpful.

Many stores offer "automotive" tool kits designed to carry in the trunk of your car. I've seen them for around $30-$50 and many have most of the basic tools mentioned above. They usually come in a blow-molded plastic case that keeps them clean and organized and is easy to transport and store. If you don't have any tools, picking up one of these would be a good investment. You will likely pay more for brand names like Craftsman, Crescent, and Husky, but in my experience, it pays off. Cheap tools too frequently are of poor quality and lack precision.   That makes them hard to work with and they may slip and damage your equipment.  They often break just when you need them most. When that happens at home it is irritating and inconvenient. When it happens in a remote camp site, it can waste a lot of time and getting things repaired can be expensive. I like tools with a "lifetime guarantee". While it is nice to be able to get a free replacement when something breaks, it is even nicer to have things that don't break -- an no manufacturer wants to give away a lot of free tools so those with lifetime guarantees are usually more durable.  And not all tools with a lifetime guaranty are high priced.  Harbor Freight offers a lifetime guaranty on all their Pittsburg (house brand) hand tools.  I have had a few opportunities to exercise their lifetime guaranty and they have always honored it pleasantly with no hassle but for the most part their tools have served me well.

Socket sets come in a wide variety of prices and quality.   They also come in different sizes ranging from little 1/4" drive sets that handle small fasteners to 3/4" drive sets mostly used on heavy equipment.  While you can often find inexpensive combination sets that include 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive sets, my personal experience with them has not been good.  I've found it to be a much better investment to buy better quality individual sets in each size.  You'll pay about as much for each better set as you would for one cheap combination set, but it will pay off.  Better quality sockets an ratchets will work much better and last much longer -- and avoid a lot of stripped fasteners and skinned knuckles!

Combination wrench sets also come in a lot of configurations.   Small sets may only have 5 or 6 wrenches, with the largest usually 9/16" or 5/8".  Larger sets will be more complete, usually going from 1/4" to 1" by eighths of an inch.  Better quality sets will be more precise and will fit the nuts and bolts better.  I like ones with nice sharp edges where they grip the fasteners.  I also prefer polished tools rather than textured ones.  I find they're easier to keep clean and they look nice.

RV specialty tools. RVs often have fasteners with special heads. Square drive and torx (star) drive screws are often used on paneling and to secure windows and roof vents. It is a good idea to check to see what your RV has and pick up a matching driver. Keeping these fasteners snug can prevent extended damage that would far exceed the nominal cost of the tool.

OHV specialty tools. Some OHVs required special tools for even routine tasks. I've had dirt bikes that required custom spark plug wrenches. It is literally impossible to change the spark plugs without them.  No standard spark plug wrench or even deep well socket will work.  Some other handy items are spanners for adjusting shocks and tightening steering heads. A spring puller for exhaust springs will save injuries (and loss of blood!) and lots of time, frustration and cursing. You might get by using a screwdriver to remove the springs and some pliers to put them back on, but once you've used a spring puller, you won't want to waste time -- and skin off your knuckles -- doing it any other way.  Because of how we tend to line up our eyesight to get the best view of pulling a spring into place, eyes are often the first and worst casualties when a spring slips.  Usually it only throws dirt and grease but a flying spring can do serious and permanent damage to delicate eye tissue.  A proper spring puller minimizes the risk.  Another handy tool for OHVs with handlebars is a pair of safety wire pliers.  These are used to tighten and secure safety wire on hand grips.

Duct tape is always a good thing to have around. You may be able to use it to effect a good enough repair on a damaged radiator hose to limp back to civilization -- or to temporarily repair a damaged hinge on a cooler. It is good for temporary repairs on tears in awnings and tents and I've even used it to hold loose siding on a trailer until I could get it home and make permanent repairs. You can use it to secure a cracked or broken window to keep out the weather and prevent further damage and possible injuries. It is also a good way to secure splints when someone is injured.

Hair spray sprayed on a slipping fan belt will often provide enough extra stickiness to get you home or to a repair station.  If the belt is really loose, you'll need to tighten the adjustment.  This usually is done my loosening the bolts attaching the alternator to its bracket and pushing the alternator out until the belt is tight, then re-tightening the bolts.  Don't over tighten a belt.  It will put stress on the pulley and bearings in the alternator and any other belt-driven accessories (like A/C, power steering, and  smog pumps).  Hair spray is also good for installing hand grips on handlebars.  It temporarily lubricates the surface to make installation easier, then dries to hold it in place like glue.  You can buy special grip cement, but I've found hair spray works just about as well and is much cheaper.  You can even buy it at your local dollar store.

I carry a variety of size and colors of plastic cable ties.  They have endless uses, such as repairing cracks in OHV plastic parts, anchoring tarps, securing gas lines, and makeshift boot latch repairs.

Your RV contains many of the same systems as your house: water, power, heating, cooling, sewer and failure of any of these components can put a serious damper on most outings. Most of these systems are engineered for a mobile existence, but the constant vibration and stress of travel, often over rough roads or no roads at all, can eventually take their toll -- as does ordinary wear and tear. Invest a little time reviewing the operator's manuals for each of you RV appliances and comply with required maintenance to avoid unnecessary problems. These manuals may prove to be an invaluable source of information if you experience an unexpected failure, especially if you are in a remote location. Make sure your tool box includes tools for tightening loose water or propane connections and familiarize yourself with where these fittings are. Propane leaks may be initially detected by the nasty odor present in the gas, even if you haven't yet been alerted by the "gas sniffer" alarm that should be present and functional in all RVs. To confirm the specific location of a propane leak, apply a soapy water solution to the suspect fittings or pipes. Any leak will cause the solution to bubble. The rate of bubbling and size of the bubbles will be an indicator of the size of the leak. Leaking water pipes can usually be discerned from wetness in the area, drips from pipes or fittings, or a mist or spray at the site of the leak. Sometimes, fittings can work loose from vibration, twisting of the RV body, or from expansion and contraction from heating and cooling. Simple re-tightening them may seal the leak. But be careful not to over-tighten any connection. You may just make things worse. If you damage the connector or the threads, it may have to be replaced entirely in order to be repaired. If a propane pipe or tube has been damaged and is leaking anywhere but at a fitting, it cannot be repaired in the field and must be replaced as soon as possible. Turn off the propane at the tank and do not turn it back on again until the damaged parts have been repaired or replaced. Leaking propane can accumulate and result in a rather spectacular (and deadly) explosion. Leaking water pipes create less of an immediate hazard, but left alone can soak surrounding parts of the coach and cause bad smells and extended damage that can be time consuming and expensive to repair. If you have a leak, turn off the city water faucet or the RV water pump whenever you aren't actively using water to minimize collateral damage -- and loss of fresh water.

Gadgets. As you experience the RV lifestyle, pay attention to your fellow campers. You will learn lots of tips and tricks from them -- which gadgets are the most useful, how to choose utensils that have multiple uses to minimize how much junk you carry around with you, what things make your camp outs less work and more fun. An uncle of mine introduced me to camp fire pie makers -- little long-handled fold-over cookers into which you place slices of bread, filled between with pie filling. They take up little room and create really tasty treats from simple, easy, inexpensive ingredients. There are special cook sets designed for camping and RVing that store within themselves to take up minimal room while providing a variety of cooking options. A lot of camping "tricks" are just simple common sense. For example, bring along a shampoo/conditioner/body wash combination instead of three separate bottles to save space and weight without sacrificing functionality. Gadgets tend to fall into three categories: RV accessories, tools, and toys. RV accessories will make camping less work and more fun. Tools will minimize repair time and, by selecting multi-purpose tools you may be able to reduce weight and space needed for tools. Good tools are just plain fun to have and use and enhance the overall "get away from it all" experience.

Tools for your OHV. OHVs often require some special tools, sometimes to perform routine functions like changing a spark plug. If a toolkit came with your OHV, make sure you bring it a long. Keep it on the OHV or in your fanny pack if possible for emergency on-the-trail repairs. Some other things I've found handy over the years include a tire patching kit -- I like the hot-vulcanizing patches. They stick better than the common peel-and-stick patches often used on bicycle tires. Another handy specialty tool is a cable-oiler. It clamps around the upper end of a control cable and has a rubber fitting where you can insert the tube from a can of WD-40 or any other appropriate lubricant to force oil all the way through the cable. I have found that T-handle socket wrenches make repairs on my dirt bikes a lot easier and faster than conventional wrenches or socket sets. Same with T-handle allen wrenches. Some sets even include T-handle screwdrivers. If you ever have to deal with the exhaust pipes, a spring puller tool will prevent a lot of cursing, skinned knuckles, chasing errant springs and will speed repairs. I may have gone overboard, but I even carry a bench grinder and a small acetylene welding set. In addition to an electric powered bench grinder I can use when running the RV generator, I managed to find a crank-operated, manual grinder for off-the-grid use. A manual tire pump is a necessity for any wheeled toys and an electric-powered air compressor (12 volt or 120 volt) is a nice upgrade. I keep a small 120-volt "pancake" compressor in my motorcycle trailer. It makes tire repairs a lot faster and easier and supplies air for a variety of tools and cleaning tasks. An inexpensive cordless drill is another convenient addition. You may not have the need or the room for my extra, "luxury" power tools, but I mention them as a potential service and because they have made my off-road life easier -- and assisted a number of my fellow campers on more than one occasion. If you decide to include cordless power tools, be sure to check and recharge the batteries regularly.

Race kit. Ever since I got my first enclosed motorcycle trailer I've maintained a set of tools and spare parts in the trailer so I'm not caught off-guard 150 miles from the nearest bike shop like I was on our first outing. When my daughter started racing -- and often going to races by herself and doing her own wrenching -- I put together a "race kit" -- a single tool box containing essential tools so she'd be prepared. And, yes, my beauty-pageant contestant daughter did her own wrenching on her dirt bikes when she was racing. Even after she stopped racing we've kept the race kit for outings when, for whatever reason, we don't take the big trailer. It takes only a half a minute to grab the kit and it has saved more than one outing. For many people, my race kit would be all the tools they'd ever need and wouldn't have to stock their trailer. I may have gone over-board in the tool department in my trailer, but it is nice to know I have the tools to handle just about any repair that can be done in the field. And I like them to be convenient to find and to use. It is pretty frustrating if you discover a loose bolt just before a ride and spend 20 minutes looking for the tool to tighten it -- and any fellow riders who are waiting for you are going to get ticked off.  If it happens too often you'll start getting left behind.

Tool organization and maintenance. You are going to want to keep your tools clean, in good repair, and well-organized. Dirty tools are cumbersome to use and can damage fasteners and your body when they slip. Check your tools often and discard and replace any that are bent or damaged. Clean your tools after each use. Never put them away wet or greasy. Store them in appropriate tool boxes that allow you to organize them so you can easily find what you need when you need it. If you can't find it when you need it, you might as well not have it. You'd be better off leaving things at home and saving the weight than have things you can't find.

Trail tricks. If you do any amount of trail riding -- or even hiking -- eventually you will have something break when you're far away from your base camp. Fortunately, the tools you need to take care of most hiking repairs are small, lightweight, and fit easily into your pack or on your belt. A good "multi-tool" like Leatherman pliers gives you most of the implements you need to effect emergency tent, pack, clothing, and pack frame repairs. If your sport includes off highway vehicles you'll want to carry a little more. Fortunately, you can usually get the tools you will need most into a fanny pack style tool kit or a fender bag that attaches to your OHV. When selecting tools to bring along look for compact tools that can serve more than one purpose. A small adjustable wrench comes in handy. Unfortunately, I've found that they often contain enough slack to let them slip, especially on smaller nuts and bolts so I try to carry combination wrenches to fit the most common fasteners on my dirt bike. I also picked up a small t-handle socket set with just one handle and interchangeable sockets that make trail repairs quick and easy and don't round off fasteners. I once was heavily teased, even chastised, by another rider, an editor of a major motorcycle publication, about the number of tools in my fender bag. It wasn't 20 minutes later I came across him broken down on the trail and now VERY glad for my "everything but the kitchen sink" tool kit. His face literally lit up when he saw me coming and I never got any more flack from him. A tool roll is a good way to keep tools clean and organized and prevent them from rubbing through the fabric of a tool pack and getting lost.  I once picked up almost a complete trail kit that had fallen out from some unfortunate rider's tool kit along the trail.  Never could identify the owner so they made a nice contribution to my own tools.  Been on the other end of that loosing situation too.  My wife once lost her entire fanny pack with all of its tools and parts.  Even though we retraced our route we never did find it.  Someone must have picked it up before we could get back for it.  I have since installed an extra snap link behind the buckles of all our off road packs to prevent them from falling off if the buckle breaks or comes apart.

Spray the inside of new handle-bar grips with hair spray. It will make it easier to slide them on and when it dries it helps hold them in place.  You can also buy special grip glue at your local motorcycle shop, but I've found hair spray works just about as well.  It can also sometimes be used to temporarily treat slipping fan belt.  And its a lot cheaper than grip glue, especially if you buy it at the dollar store.  And who knows, you might even use it to control "helmet  hair" after a ride so you feel more presentable at the campfire.  Wire tie pliers are really handy for securely fastening grips to handle bars.  You can twist the wires with ordinary pliers, but wire tie pliers make it a lot easier and give much neater results.

If you don't have a chain breaker you can usually grind or file down the end of the pins in chain so you can drive it out to shorten it or make other repairs. I splurged and bought a small electric bench grinder for my motorcycle trailer. I have to run the RV generator to get power to run it. I also have a hand-crank operated grinder I picked up at a garage sale for when I don't have power. I just need to recruit one of my kids or a fellow camper to crank it so I can focus on the grinding. It can be done by one person, but it isn't easy, cranking with one hand and trying to guide the object being ground with the other.  Two hands are much better, which reminds me of the teen age boy who, when stopped by a police officer for driving with only one hand on the wheel ( the other arm was wrapped around his girl friend's shoulder and holding her tight) was, asked "Don't you know you're supposed to use both hands?" to which he replied "Yeah, but I needed one for driving!"

Shiny tools appeal to me. Nice chrome-plated or polished wrenches and socket sets have almost the same attraction to me that jewelry does for most women. (But I believe my tools are far more practical!) Some people like the textured surfaces for extra grip but smooth surfaces are easier to clean and usually more comfortable to hold. For the most part you don't rely on surface friction to hold onto your tools. Keep your eyes open for bargains whenever you're in your favorite auto parts store or home center. I got sets of both SAE and Metric "Gearwinder" wrench sets for half price at my local Lowes. These are not as essential as regular wrenches can handle most tasks, but I have found them useful -- they save time and they are kind of fun to use. My wife, knowing my passion for tools, bought me a set of Craftsman "cross force" wrenches for Christmas a year or so ago. These come in solid, combination wrenches, as well as fancy racheting tools like "Gearwinders". What makes them unique is the handles are twisted so the flat side rather than the edge is against your palm when exerting force to loosen or tighten fasteners. Given how much more comfortable they are it is amazing that someone didn't think of this a long time ago! Another useful option are "Metrinch" tools that combine metric and SAE tools in a single set, reducing the weight and space you need to transport and store them.  Note some metric sizes have interchangable SAE sizes -- 14 mm and 9/16" wrenches and sockets are essentially the same size,  But others aren't.  A 1/2' SAE is smack in between 12 mm and 13 mm metric sizes.  A 12 mm won't fit on a 1/2" fastener and a 13 mm will be in danger of slipping and rounding off the head.

There are a few power tools you might find useful to bring along.  The first that comes to mind is a cordless drill/driver.  I also like to have a cordless impact wrench for use on my dirt bikes (especially when working on the clutch!).  My favorite tool is a 4 volt Worx screwdriver with an extendable shaft.  It is small and light weight but remarkably powerful.  Power tools can save a lot of time keeping fasteners tight on RVs.

OHV riders will want to carry tools with them on the trail. There are many fine bags designed for this purpose. I have used fanny packs, tank bags, and fender bags. I once got a deal on several denim shaving kits at a liquidation store that I adapted as fender bags and they actually outlasted some of the expensive tool bags I bought from a motorcycle shop. Some riders prefer using a back pack. My daughter had a teddy-bear back pack she wore while racing. It was more attractive and feminine than an ordinary back pack and helped us identify her on the trail. Everyone at the races knew the "girl with the teddy bear pack". There are specially designed off-road fanny packs with pockets for tools and compartments for other necessities. If your fanny pack doesn't have tool pockets, you can buy a tool roll or make one from the leg of an old pair of jeans.  In addition to basic tools, I carry a flashlight, a chemical light stick, a pocket first aid kit, a water-proof container for matches, and a flint and steel fire starter. I try to keep a poncho and/or emergency blanket in my tool kit too, in case I get caught out in the rain or have to spend the night along the trail.  "Space blankets" are aluminized mylar and take up about as much room as a folded handkerchief but are said to retain about 70% or so of your body heat, which could be life-saving if you're caught out in cold weather over night.  In hot weather they make a pretty darn good sun shade.  Since they shine like a mirror they can also be used for signalling.

Spare parts and supplies are essential to keeping up with what happens during an outing.   Brake and clutch levers are frequently damaged on dirt bikes and ATVs.  Shift levers run a close second.  Having spares on hand can save your weekend.  Engine oil and other necessary lubricants are necessary to keep things working smoothly.  Some extra coolant and brake fluid may be needed to top things off between rides.  A variety of fasteners (nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cable ties) gives you an alternative to sidelining a vehicle or making a trip to town for parts in many cases.  When I first started riding I got the mechanic at my local motorcycle shop to cough up a can full of spare nuts and bolts from his stash.  These days you can buy kits containing the most commonly used fasteners for almost any brand of off road vehicle -- or a "universal" kit.  Nice thing about these are they're all brand new and shiny.  They fit right and look good.  They can run as much as about $50, but are well worth it.  I like to watch for them on sale and stock up then, often getting them for under $20!  You won't need or want to carry all this stuff on the trail but having adequate replacement parts back in camp has saved more than one outing for me and my group.

You'll also need camping tools. Basic tools for camping, whether in an RV or car camping in a tent, include an axe or hatchet, a shovel, and a knife. Use your axe or hatchet to prepare firewood and kindling. A shovel is need to build fire pits and put out fires. A knife has dozens of uses around camp, from shaving sticks to create tinder to cutting tangled fishing lines. A Swiss Army style knife or a Leatherman multi-tool is often chosen by campers but survival experts recommend a good, 4-5 " fixed blade knife. Those big macho-looking "survival" knives appeal to the "Rambo" in all of us, but won't be as useful as a smaller hunting knife for most camping and survival tasks.  I have also learned to appreciate the value of a "rigging knife"with a marlin spike.  I carry one one my sailboat and have found the marlin spike indispensable for loosening over tightened knots.  It would be equally useful in camp or on the trail.

One of my favorite campfire safety tricks is one I learned from my little sister.   Use a stick to hold wood when splitting it for kindling instead of holding it with your fingers.  If you should miss, you only shorten the stick and not your fingers, which are difficult to reattach and won't grow back.

Trick or Treat?
Pick the tools and tricks that will be a treat to use.