Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, sailing, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Preparing Meals In Camp

Meal preparation in camp should always be at least easy and convenient.  Ideally it should be downright fun!  You definitely don't want meal preparation to be time consuming or onerous and interfere with your planned activities.  If we do it right, meal preparation can and should be fun.

Preparing meals in camp, whether you're camping in a tent or on a boat or in an RV, will be a little different than your normal routine at home.  When cooking in an RV you usually have a range that is similar to the one at home -- but somewhat smaller.  Cooking on a boat you may have to deal with having your galley rocking.  When tent camping, you'll likely be cooking on a Coleman stove or campfire, unless you opt for one of the newer portable ranges that gives you  stove resources similar to those you would have in in RV.  But even then, or when cooking in an RV, the differences in size and performance will require some adjustments to your normal procedure.  No matter what you're cooking on, it is going to be different than your gas or electric range and oven at home.

Camp cooking should be fun!  After all, we go camping for fun, so cooking should be fun too and usually it is.  One of the things that will make it more fun, especially for the primary cook, is for everyone to participate.  Plan your meals with that in mind so you have appropriate and productive things for everyone to do.  Plan simple meals that don't require a lot of elaborate preparation or cleanup.  Take advantage of outdoor cooking opportunities (BBQ or campfire) to add variety and distribute the labor.  Cooking on a campfire can be fun and quite an adventure and is a good way to involve many family or group members.

Your first step toward successful camp cooking starts even before you leave home.  That is to plan an appropriate menu.  Think "simplicity.  Plan simple meals that will require minimum preparation:  hotdogs, hamburgers, sandwiches, foil dinners, stew, chili, cold cereal, etc.  One of our traditions is to have donuts for breakfast the first day in camp.  Yes, I know, it isn't the most nutritious meal, but we aren't exactly making a habit out of as rarely as we get to go camping and it lets us get going quick!

Setting up your camp kitchen or RV or boat galley properly will have a big effect on the efficiency -- and fun -- of camp cooking.  RV cabinets and counter tops are much smaller than their residential counterparts so you may not be able to have everything at your fingertips like you are used to having at home.  You may have to get things out in advance and have them staged "at the ready" so you don't waste time and energy digging in the backs of cupboards for what you need.  Have your utensils and all ingredients needed for the current meal gathered up and ready to use.   Boat galleys are often even more limited than RVs plus you probably have to deal with the boat rocking while youre cooking.  When tent camping, all your stuff is going to be in a back pack, duffle bag, tub, or chuck box so the same practice applies, perhaps even more so.  Set up your camp kitchen so all ingredients and necessary cooking implements are organized for easy access.   Have a dishpan ready for rinsing or soaking dishes, spoons, etc.  Make sure your campfire is properly formatted for cooking or that your camp stove is fueled and ready to go.  You may need to set up a wind screen around your stove or even around your campfire on windy days.

When preparing meals in an RV or on a boat you will want to be as efficient as possible.  That means more than just minimized use of the stove to conserve fuel.  You need to reduce use of water consumption, generation of trash, and restrict how often and how long you open the refrigerator.   Also, conserve your time.  You need so think carefully about how long it takes to prepare each dish and schedule cooking times to try to get everything ready at the same time.  Avoid messy dishes that make for a lot of cleanup.  All of that comes down to planning.  First, plan your meals in advance, way in advance.  By planning your menu long before you hit the road you can make sure you have all the right provisions and you have a chance to organize them so they'll be handy and easy to use on the road.  You may even want to pre-measure some ingredients and put them in labeled plastic bags so they're ready to use.  Sometimes  you can also pre-mix dry ingredients to reduce preparation time.  You don't want to have to search through cupboards or boxes of supplies to find a bottle of cooking oil after you've already lit the stove.  If you are accustomed to cooking at home, you probably have routines that work for you there but you may have to make adjustments when cooking in an RV.  A smaller stove may mean you can't cook as many things at the same time as you do at home and the smaller burners may mean it will take longer.   Think about what things can be prepared first without becoming unappealing if they sit for a while.  Baked potatoes hold their heat pretty well but mixed veggies cool pretty quickly, so keep things like that in mind when you structure your meal preparation.  Sometimes you can augment your cooking resources by shifting some of it, like steaks and burgers, baked potatoes and corn on the cob, to an outside BBQ or to the campfire.   This also lets you share the work by recruiting a companion to take charge of that part of the meal and outdoor cooking can even be fun.   And always plan ahead. If you're planning on having baked potatoes for dinner, you might want to wrap them in aluminum foil and tuck them in the coals of your campfire an hour or so before dinner time.  A potato baked in the campfire for an hour makes an tasty side dish.  A potato baked in the campfire for 3 hours makes an excellent hockey puck!  Taking advantage of the campfire also helps you conserve propane and creates some opportunities for several people to participate in some old fashioned pioneer type experiences.  You can let everyone cook their own hotdogs but you'll probably need a designated burger flipper to do hamburgers on the grill or campfire.

Mealtime when tent camping is usually quite a bit different than at home.  You may find yourself having to prepare your meals in adverse weather -- rain, wind, even snow.  Never try to cook in your tent.  That is a recipe for disaster!  If you;'re in a campground with canopies or pavilions, try to take advantage of them to protect you and your food from the weather.  If all else fails you might be able to stretch a tarp between some trees or poles or anchor it to the roof of your vehicle to give you a little shelter from the storm.  Just make sure it is high enough that it won't melt or catch on fire when you're cooking.  Depending on how much shelter you have around your camp kitchen, you may have to exercise special care to avoid getting rain in your flour or pancake mix or blowing debris adding unwanted variety to the taste and texture of your creations.  Rain falling into a frying pan filled with hot oil can be especially hazardous.  Water is heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom of the pan where it quickly becomes superheated and can virtually explode, scattering hot, possibly, flaming, oil all over the place.  As with cooking in an RV,  your cooking space is limited and planning is key to success.  You will most likely want to plan different meals than you usually prepare at home, choosing things that are appropriate to the season, are easy to prepare, serve, and clean up.  And, again, take advantage of campfire resources when you can.  As you gain experience cooking in camp you may discover you want to upgrade from a 2-burner stove to a 3-burner stove or perhaps even bring more than one stove.  Extra cooking facilities is especially helpful (and necessary) when you are cooking for larger groups.  How you organize your camp kitchen will have a significant effect on how convenient preparing meals will be.  Plan ahead and have ingredients well organized and close at hand. Some campers find it helpful to build a "chuck box" to organize their kitchens.  This is a tried and true option, one that goes back at least to American pioneer wagon trains and the chuck wagons on cattle drives.   For a modern variation, check out the little kitchens in the back of teardrop trailers. Lacking a chuck box or room to transport one, organize your provisions and utensils logically in plastic tubs.  Use dividers or smaller containers inside large tubs to protect individual items and make it easier to find what you need when you need it.   If everything is simply tossed into one large tub you'll find yourself digging through a foot or two of odds and ends to find a spoon or a spatula. Proper storage of foodstuffs is especially important.   No matter how careful you are, things are likely to get spilled in transit.  Loose ingredients like flour, sugar, and salt, get all over everything if the bag or box breaks . Escaping liquids will seep through and into unprotected packages of dry ingredients and soon you'll have to pretty much throw everything out and start over.   Proper storage can prevent a lot of problems.   Make sure caps are tight on all containers, then store bottles of liquids in their own plastic storage boxes so if they crack or the cap comes off, the contents will be contained and the rest of the bin or cupboard not contaminated.  Keeping dry ingredients in their own sealed plastic containers protects the packages from damage, prevents them from being contaminated by external spills, seals them from environmental moisture so they don't absorb moisture from humid air, and keeps the bugs out.

Campfire cooking is a fun way  to prepare your meals in camp.  But it requires proper preparation, special equipment, and careful procedures.  Get your fire started about an hour before you want to start cooking.  It is best to cook on the coals, not the flames.  You can even cook most meats directly on or over the coals without the need of a grill or pan.  Special equipment might include a grill, "pot dangler", or cast iron skillets and pots.  For a pioneer type experience, cook your meat or bread on a stick like you would hotdogs or marshmallows.  Twist bread is easy.  Start with a stiff dough, roll it into a rope shape, wrap it around a stick, and bake it over your campfire.  Keep an eye on what you're cooking.  Temperatures in a campfire are much different and more likely to change without warning than the temperatures on your stove at home or even your trusty Coleman stove in camp.  Check out these Ten Commandments for Campfire Cooking for more helpful tips.

 No matter what you are cooking or where, clean up as you go instead of setting dirty dishes and utensils aside to be washed later.  Usually cleaning things right away avoids having to deal with scrubbing dried or cooked on residue and will save you a lot of time in the long run.  And, since you probably have limited items, it may make things you need available when you need them again instead of having to stop and clean them before you can use them when you need them.

Tin foil dinners, such as hobo stew, are handy ways to have tasty, nutritious campfire meals.  They can be assembled from basic ingredients (usually meat and vegetables) and cooked right on the coals.  We like to make ours up ahead of time at home, sometimes even pre-cooking the meat in the microwave before wrapping them in foil.  They don't take up a lot of room in the fridge or cooler, they don't spill, they are really easy to cook on the campfire, and they really taste great!  And they don't dirty up a lot of pots and pans.

If you're camping in a developed campground, there may be a roofed area that will at least get you out of the rain or snow but usually these are open-sided so you may still have to deal with the wind.  Sometimes each site has its own canopy; sometimes there are larger shared pavilions.  If your camp site doesn't have one you may want to set up your own portable canopy, maybe a dining fly or an EZ-up.  I've seen campers set up tarps to protect their campsites, stretching them high enough between the trees and leaving a small opening in the middle so they can even have a protected campfire.  That will help keep rain out of the hot grease in they frying pan, but having anything overhead brings its own risks, so be careful!   Tarps will sometimes collect significant pools of water in low spots.  Eventually the weight may cause the tarp to tear or pull loose, dousing everyone and everything beneath with copious amounts of cold rain water.   Monitor water accumulation and periodically dump the pools before they dump themselves in the most unpleasant and untimely way.   Some additional tarps hung along the windward side may help shelter you from the wind.  Exercise special care when cooking under a canopy.  An unexpected flareup could catch your roof or walls on fire!

Meal schedules are likely to be modified when camping.   Hey! One of the reasons we go camping is to get out of the daily 9-5 grind!  The variety of activities and the potential for unforeseen circumstances to impact mealtimes pretty much dictate you have to be flexible.  Most times that isn't a problem, unless you make it into one.  You will find it is best not to try to maintain a fixed meal schedule tied to the clock when camping.  Don't worry about setting an alarm clock.  Have breakfast whenever you finally roll out of bed in the morning.  Although some people don't usually eat breakfast at home,  normally do try to start each day camping with a more or less nutritious breakfast (donuts the first morning are one of the more fun and less nutritious breakfasts).  Lunch works just about anytime you might think of as "mid day", but it doesn't have to be at a specific time.   Wait for a natural break in activities.  And have dinner in the evening after you've finished your day's activities and are ready to settle in for the night.  Having dinner at that time also lets you cook on the campfire, if you like, then just relax around it after dinner.  You meal schedules should be more governed by the sun, your body rhythms, and your activities than by the clock.  However, if you find benefit in keeping a regular schedule, by all means do so!  People with special diets or medical requirements may need to keep to a fixed schedule.

Clean up is far more important in camp than at home.   It is ALWAYS a good idea to clean up as you go, but if you don't keep up with it in camp there can be larger consequences than you normally experience at home.  Dump some water into pots and pans a soon as you're removed the food so they can begin soaking right away before stuff dries and bakes on.   If you're cooking on a campfire, you may want to leave the pots and pans on the fire with water in them for a while to loosen deposits, but don't let them boil dry.  Dispose properly of scraps before they can attract pests.   Even in an RV, you are likely to be surrounded by more potential pests than you have at home and when cooking outside you are smack in the middle of their environment.  Flying and crawling insects are usually among the first to arrive, but larger (and more dangerous) critters like raccoons and bears may also be drawn to unattended (and sometime attended) scraps.  While unwanted creatures are less likely to be a problem in an RV, spills and scraps left around contribute to unsanitary conditions and may produce unpleasant odors that are hard to escape or eliminate in the small space inside an RV.   Cooking fumes and odors can also be a problem in an RV, so try to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open some strategic windows and take advantages of the fan in your range hood (if you have one) to expel odors as quickly as possible.  Roof vents, especially those with fans than can be used to evacuate air from inside the coach, are also helpful in getting rid of odors before they saturate carpet, curtains, and upholstery or cling to walls and windows.   Give cloth upholstery a shot of Fabreze and vacuum them now and then to minimize the accumulation of cooking odors.   Clean interior glass and vinyl surfaces to remove the build up of film from cooking fumes.   Meal preparation in camp should at the very least always be easy and convenient.  Ideally, it should even be fun!


Presentation is often a big part of meals at home.  My wife can whip up some frozen corn dogs and make it look like a gourmet meal.  Options for elaborate presentation in camp are probably going to be much more limited than at home, but you may still want to spiff up some meals.   And remember, just eating off paper plates around the campfire or at your RVor picnic table is perfectly acceptable.  Fancy dinnerware or serving containers are definitely NOT required when camping.  Consider that billionaire William Randolf Hearst served all condiments in their original containers at his "ranch" at San Simeone (better know as Hearst Castle), even when entertaining VIPs like politicians, Hollywood celebrities, and even royalty.   If you do want to add some decoration, sometimes you can put some wild flowers in a plastic cup for a centerpiece at dinner (just be sure picking the flowers isn't against the rules where you're camping!).  A single candle, even a little votive light, can add a touch of ambiance to the table without taking up much room in your cupboards and if its a citronella candle it will help keep insects away.   Even a little LED faux candle looks nice and you can often get them at dollar stores.   And they don't present a fire hazard if used in tents.  I've seen RV advertisements in magazines and displays at trade shows with lavish flower arrangements and even live plants.  That is OK for a trade show or a commercial, but, personally, I don't think it is very practical for real  camping.  I would prefer to give the space and weight consumed by such items to things that add more convenience or functionality.  In most places we go camping, the location itself provides more than enough "eye candy".   You can always do something fun like learn fun and spiffy ways to fold paper napkins or add a little pretty garnish to your meals.  Sometimes you may even be able to find suitable garnish in the wild (one of my favorites is water cress), but be sure you know what you're picking and that picking it isn't prohibited or the food is contaminated.

Now you're cooking!

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Camping In Fog

OK, so what is any different about camping in fog? Other than dampening your spirits and perhaps your tent and sleeping bags, camping in fog is not too different than camping in normal conditions. With ONE major exception: visibility.

Fog limits visibility. It makes it harder for you to see where you're going and it makes it harder for others to see you and your camp site. If you're out and about and get caught in fog, you might have to hole up for a time and wait for it to clear if it gets too bad. You can get yourself thoroughly lost if you keep moving when you can't see landmarks that would keep you on track. Driving in fog often means reduced traction as well as inhibited visibility as the fog condenses on the road or trail surface. Turn your headlights on DIM so other driver's can see you better. High beams usually light up the fog in front of you and glare back making it even harder to see where you're going. If you have fog lights, use them. If you don't have fog lights and encounter fog with any regularity, consider adding them. They are not terribly expensive nor difficult to install.  Fog can make it hard to see tents and vehicles in camp.  After nearly running into my own unlit motorhome when returning to camp in the fog one night I added reflective strips down both sides to make it easier to see.   I also placed reflective strips near the front and rear of both sides of my motorcycle trailer. You might put reflective tape on  your tent or hang chemical light sticks at strategic places to protect it.  Solar lights may also add some visibility and you can often pick them up at dollar stores so they don't have to be expensive.

Driving in fog is challenging to say the least and you may often encounter fog between home and your camping destination.  After an hour or so of trying to peer through thick fog my eyes usually feel like burned holes in blanket.  Proper fog lights are helpful.  The amber or yellow lens, low mounting position, and flat beam pattern help illuminate the roadway without reflecting too much glare back at you.  Never use your headlights on bright in fog (or heavy falling or blowing snow).  The glare will make it really hard to see what's ahead of you.  As in other situations of decreased visibility, you need to adjust your speed so you don't run into stopped or slow moving vehicles, but try not to become an obstacle yourself.  The central valley in California gets something they call "toole" fog -- it is thick as pea soup but very shallow.  Sometimes drivers of big semis are high enough to see over it while ordinary cars are swimming through it.  When I encountered this situation I couldn't even see the hood ornament on my car, but I could see blue sky above me!  I waited for a truck to pass me and then locked onto his tail lights and followed him for many miles.  If nothing else, having a big truck to clear the road in front of you should reduce your chances of being hit head on.  Be sure to maintain a safe distance.  You don't want to run into him if he stops.  Even if he stops and you do run into him, the impact will be a lot less than if you'd hit an oncoming vehicle head on.  Using a truck as your "front door" (as CBers say) not only protects you from on coming traffic, most truckers are familiar with the roads and will be aware of potential problems either from experience or from warnings via CB radio from other truckers, long before you do.

I once had some yellow tinted sun glasses that actually made it easier to see in the fog.  Ordinary sun glasses will make it harder.  The yellow tinted lenses are sometimes found at sporting goods stores that cater to hunters and shooters.

In camp, you need to make your tent, RV, and other equipment visible to avoid someone from running into it. Lights or lanterns can help make your tent and your picnic table easier to see in the fog. To protect your RV, reflective tape on all 4 sides will help it show up in the headlights of any approaching vehicle. One of the most visible formats is the alternating white and red reflectors you often see on semi-trailers but that may not be very attractive on the side of a nice motorhome. 3M makes a variety of colors of reflective tape so you may be able to find something that blends with or complements the existing color scheme while giving you high visibility. I chose a 2" wide white strip for one of my motorhomes and installed it over an existing white strip of nearly the same size. It was nearly invisible in daylight, but the high reflectivity showed up brightly in headlights at night or other times of decreased visibility.  Before installing the reflective tape I nearly ran into my own motorhome when returning to camp one foggy evening which is why I decided to install it.

Minimize the chance of someone running into your camp by choosing a safe location in the first place. NEVER set up your camp on a trail or road. Keep your camp a safe distance from trails and roads. Avoid setting up camp next to an outside turn on a road or trail, where someone missing the turn might run into you. Fog, rain, or snow may make it difficult for them to see the turn or slick conditions caused by rain or snow may cause them to loose control and head smack into your campsite. Camping on the inside of a turn is a little less risky. If someone misses the turn they aren't as likely to run into you, but they may still loose control if the road is slick and then they could spin out and go anywhere!

If you encounter fog while out on the trails on an OHV, horse, or just hiking, you will need to take extra precautions to remain safe.  Other travelers may not be able to see you or you may not be able to see them in time to avoid a collision so you need to be ready to take evasive action at a moment's notice.  If the visibility gets too bad you may want to seek a safe place to take a break until it improves.  If your OHV has lights, make sure you turn them on.  They might not help you see any better, but they will make it easier for other travelers to see you.

If the weather turns cold you may encounter freezing fog.   Branches on trees and bushes and power lines will become coated with something called rime, which is a form of frost.  Sometimes freezing fog creates what is knows affectionately as "diamond dust" -- brilliant ice crystals that collect on horizontal surfaces as they fall from the freezing fog.  I've even seen crystals suspended in the fog, glistening like tiny stars when illuminated by street lights or head lights.  While it is incredibly beautiful, it isn't much fun to breath it and it can inhibit visibility, making harder for you so see and be seen!

See and be seen!

Monday, September 24, 2012

Camping Ovens

If you have a self-contained motorhome or travel trailer chances are it has an oven.   Many RVs these days include a microwave or microwave/convection combo oven and many have a range with a gas oven.   If you're tent camping, or your RV doesn't have an oven (some RVs have only "cook tops" with 2 - 4 burners and no oven), you may have to seek other options.  Tear drop trailers usually have just a one-burner portable butane or propane stove to be used in the rear "kitchen" or you just use your own Coleman stove.  The gas oven in an RV will function pretty much like the one at home, but it's smaller size may limit how much food you can prepare at one time.  For example, you may have to bake each layer of a cake by itself, instead of doing 2 or more at a time like you might do at home.  The smaller size may also mean the heat sources are closer to the shelves which may affect baking temperatures and times.  If the bottom burns before the whole thing is cooked you either need to use a higher shelf or turn down the heat and bake longer.

Microwave ovens are wonderful conveniences in RVs or even tent camping if you have power. You'll need shore power from a campground pedestal or an on board or portable generator or an inverter and strong battery bank.  Microwave ovens in RVs are often installed at eye level.  Be careful removing food from the microwave.   It can be VERY hot -- hot enough to create 2nd degree burns if it spills on your skin!   That is one reason microwave instructions on many foods say to let it set for 2 minutes before serving.  The other reason is to let the food continue to cook, so don't be in too big a hurry to pull it out of the oven!  Having a convection microwave may eliminate the need for a conventional gas oven.

But what do you do when your only option is cooking on a Coleman stove or a campfire?  Coleman stoves typically have 2 or 3 burners but no oven.  Campfires are just a big batch of flames or, if you are patient enough, coals.  Sometimes you have have a grill over a campfire to support cooking devices.

The Coleman Camp Oven has been a traditional camping oven solution for camp stove users for years.  It is light weight, folds to 12"x12"x2" for storage and transport, and expands to 12"x12"x12" for use on a 2 or 3 burner gas stove or an RV cook top.  You might even be able to use it on a campfire if you have a grill or grid to set it on.   It is an easy way to bake biscuits, rolls, entrees, and pizza in camp.  You might even be able to do bread, brownies, and cakes once you've gotten the hang of using it. Since it sits on top of your gas stove, it is somewhat affected by wind if you're using it outside.  Using a wind guard around the stove will improve performance on windy days.   Expect to pay $25-50 for a brand new oven or watch garage sales, thrift stores, ebay, etc to get a bargain on a used one.  Unless they have been badly bent or otherwise abused, there isn't much that can go wrong with them.   You might have to give it a good cleaning.

For a more home-like solution, Camp Chef and Coleman both sell a portable outdoor range and oven for about $200 -$300.  I've seen used ones offered on the 'Net for around $160.   This is scaled down version of your kitchen stove at home, with 2 gas burners on top and an oven with 2 racks.   It even looks like a miniature stainless steel kitchen stand alone range.  Here is a link to the Camp Chef Portable Oven.  so you can get an idea of what they are like.  Pretty luxurious.  It comes equipped to run on a standard 1 lb propane bottle but can be adapted to use larger propane cylinders.   This also makes an excellent survival stove for emergencies.   Since the oven is not dependent on an outside heat source, it isn't affected by wind but you may still need a wind guard on the top burners when the breeze picks up.   If it you have the budget for it, this is an excellent way to bring along complete cooking facilities for tent camping or for use in any RV that doesn't have a functional range and oven and as a home emergency stove. You might even find it less expensive and more convenient than replacing an RV range and oven if yours has failed.  Just be sure to provide adequate ventilation anytime you use it in an enclosed space.

Dutch ovens are always a good option when camping.  A Dutch oven is simply a cast iron (or sometimes heavy aluminum) pot with a sturdy lid.   They can be used on your gas stove or in the campfire or heated with charcoal briquettes.  You can cook just about anything in a Dutch oven but you will usually want to seek out special Dutch oven recipes for best results.  They are very adaptable and can cook almost anything from soups and stews, to one-pot main dishes, to breads and desserts.  It is common to combine meat, potatoes, and other veggies together and let them simmer for a few hours for a really easy, tender, tasty, meal.   I think of it as a pioneer crock pot.   A favorite Dutch oven dessert is a kind of "dump cake". Check the Internet for specific recipes but the general idea is to dump a can of your favorite fruit or pie filling into the bottom of the pan, dump a box of cake mix on top of it, and bake. Always line your Dutch ovens with aluminum foil to make cleanup easier, especially when cooking sticky desserts.  Dutch ovens are perfect for cooking foods that benefit from long simmering, like chili, stew, chicken, and pot roast.  Think of them as kind of a pioneer crock pot.  Set up your Dutch oven before you begin your recreational activities for the day and by dinner time you'll have a hot and tasty meal waiting to be ladled up.  You typically need charcoal underneath and on the lid.  Figure on putting one briquette on top for each inch of diameter of the Dutch oven.  A lid lifter is a handy accessory or use a pair of Channel-lok style slip-joint pliers.  The cast in loop on the lid gets very hot.

Not exactly an oven but kind of related are camp toasters.  Typically they consist of steel disk with a wire frame on top that holds 4 slices of bread for toasting.  They are inexpensive (usually under $5) and fold flat for easy transport and storage.  You need to keep a close eye on your toast to make sure it doesn't burn and you'll need to turn the toast to cook both sides, but it makes really good toast on a Coleman stove, an RV range or even a campfire.

An alternate way, with a pioneer flair, to cook breads etc is to make the dough thick and wrap it on a stick and cook it over an open flame (campfire or camp stove) to make campfire twist bread.  A forked stick works best.   Or heat some non-porous flat rocks in your fire until water sizzles when dropped on them and drop the dough right on the rocks.  You might even try making a stone oven of flat rocks and put your dough in there for baking.  Ash cakes can be cooked by dropping dough directly on hot coals.  It is surprising how little the coals stick to the bread but be sure to brush the ashes off the bottom before you eat them!

Solar ovens are a nice eco-friendly way to go.  And using them is easy on your pocketbook although ready-made solar ovens can be a little pricey. However, you can find numerous plans for building your own solar oven on the Internet.   Usually all you need is some cardboard and some aluminum foil.  Your only fuel is sunlight.  Not going to do much baking on rainy days, but solar ovens are an interesting and economical option for fair weather, and, after all, don't we all try to do most of our camping in fair weather?

If you are always camping with full hookups or have a generator, you could consider bringing along microwave or toaster ovens to make meals in camp more convenient even when tent camping. With today's quiet, light weight generators, they're even feasible for tent camping.   Many RVs have built in microwaves.  If yours does not, you can probably add one or just bring along a small model that can sit on the counter (see my post on Replacing or Installing a Microwave Oven for additional details).

Campfire pizza.  You can make campfire pizza in a frying pan.  A cast iron skillet is the best choice for direct use on the campfire, but you could make pizza in a regular frying pan on your camp stove or, if you are careful, even on the campfire.  Dutch ovens are another option for making pizza in camp.  I have seen pizza ovens advertised for campfire use but to me they were way to expensive and way to cumbersome for use in camp.  Might be worth it if you were selling pizza in camp!

Military field cookers might be an option for car camping, but from what I've learned about them, they're large and heavy to haul around and use a LOT of propane -- IF you can find the right regulators to make them work properly and that seems to be a common problem.  I've heard they often have regulators and orifices that aren't compatible with civilian propane systems.  Keep in mind they're literally designed to feed an army.  Individual military equipment is worth looking into for camping, but unit level stuff is mostly designed to be transported in 2 1/2 to 5 ton trucks and feed hundreds of soldiers. Probably too big, too heavy, and too expensive for most of us and way overkill unless you have a really big family or plan to frequently feed the whole campground on a regular basis.

Bake up!

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Tent Camping in Campgrounds

Tent camping in campgrounds has several advantages and a few disadvantages.   Campgrounds usually provide level, often grassy spaces, free of debris to set up your tent.   You will usually have designated parking places that are paved or at least graveled, close to where you will set up your tent so you don't have to carry your stuff too far.  Very often there will be community water spigots where you can get water as you need it.  There may be toilets, sometimes even full service bathrooms with hot showers but sometimes just primitive pit toilets.  But that still beats digging your own latrine!   Some campgrounds provide an area with sinks and counter space where you can wash  your dishes.  Campgrounds will usually provide picnic tables and approved fire pits. What is special about an approved fire pit?  Well, it has been constructed according to Forest Service standards and has been inspected and approved for use.  Forest areas often come under fire restrictions during hot, dry summer months when fires are only allowed in approved fire pits.   The fine for having an open fire in a restricted area can be very heavy and the penalties for allowing your unapproved fire to get away from you and start a brush fire or forest fire can run into the millions of dollars in fire fighting costs and property damage which you could be ordered to pay for!

Access to campgrounds is usually via good roads making them within easy reach by family car. Primitive/remote sites may be require more rugged transportation to be reached.  If you are planning to camp "off road" you may need a high-clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle just to get there.

Campgrounds may also give you access to camp stores and local businesses in case you need some supplies and to a ranger or camp host who is knowledgeable about the area and can give excellent advice regarding trails, activities, and even weather.  You will also have fellow campers around you who can be a good source of information and assistance.   Most campgrounds try to have at least some shade, natural or artificial (canopy) for your comfort.

Disadvantages mostly consist of increased proximity to civilization, including fellow campers, that can intrude on your solitude if you are seeking a truly pristine camping experience.   Light from parking lots, streets, and nearby businesses may limit your view of the night sky.   You might experience "noise pollution" from nearby highways, railroads, or large event venues.  Some frequently used camp sites may suffer from abuse.  You may encounter dirty or damaged tables, left behind trash, non-combustibles in the fire pit, and nasty bathrooms..  Of course, if everyone observed proper camping etiquette, you wouldn't run into these problems, but, unfortunately, not everyone is as considerate as they should be.  Sites in some campgrounds may be closer together than you might like.  And, of course, you must pay a fee to use most developed campgrounds, especially if there are amenities for your convenience.

Unless you are in an open camping area you will be in a designated site.  Be careful to keep your stuff within your designated area and not intrude on space allocated to other campers.  It is also a good idea in open or primitive camping areas to keep all your belongings close.   Not only is it more considerate to other campers, it keeps them more convenient for your use and allows you to maintain better security over your things.

Some commercial campgrounds include many resort style amenities.  Some typical examples are badminton, table tennis, shuffle board, swimming pools, bathrooms, showers, camp store, and restaurant.

Some, but not all, campgrounds accommodate both RVs and tent campers.    Many Forest Service Campgrounds do not allow RVs.  Some RV parks do not allow tent camping.  Don't just assume you can set up your tent in an RV space.  You may get an unexpected visit from local law enforcement -- or at least the camp host evicting you!  If you do occupy an RV space expect to pay the standard RV rate unless told otherwise.

Happy camping!

Monday, December 5, 2011

Camp Trash

The "camp trash" I'm talking about is not be be confused with "trailer trash".   Unlike "trailer trash", it isn't people, it is the garbage people sometimes (too many times!)  leave behind when camping.  That being said, people who do leave their trash behind quickly gain a reputation as "trailer trash".  Why would anything as mundane as camp trash deserve its own post?   For one thing, way too many people fail to clean up after themselves when camping.  Too many have the "I'm on vacation" attitude and think someone else should clean up after them.  Or they're just careless and let things blow away.  The old back packers adage "Pack it in; pack it out" definitely applies to all kinds of camping.   I've seen beautiful national forest campgrounds that, after a holiday weekend, looked like the downwind area next to a landfill.  Such behavior is inexcusable.   I was amused and inspired by an innovative park ranger who, after collecting two large bags of identifiable trash from a single camp site at the end of a holiday weekend, sent a letter to the city folks who had left it behind, notifying them they had left some personal belongings behind and he was shipping them to them C.O.D. and to watch for the package.  Then he boxed up their trash and sent it to them -- at their expense! Imagine their surprise when, after paying the C.O.D charges, they opened the box, expecting to find a lost camera, cell phone, sweater or camping equipment and finding instead all the garbage they left behind for someone else to clean up.  As I recall, these particular campers had consistently ignored posted rules and basic guidelines for acceptable behavior in general.  I'm pretty sure they broke every possible rule.  So they pretty much deserved it.   I'm pleased to report that the offenders were NOT OHV riders and that every time I've been camping with OHVers we've left our camp sites and the surrounding area cleaner and in better condition than we found them.  That isn't to say that all OHV riders are so considerate.  However, when our Desert Rat group sponsored a cleanup day at one of our favorite staging areas, we filled a 40-yard dumpster and very little of the trash we collected could be traced to OHV activities.  Most was household and construction debris dumped by residents of surrounding towns.   I've run other service projects and talked to organizers of other similar projects and they've consistently experienced the same thing.  How anyone can think OHVers are hauling sofas and toilets around on their dirt bikes and ATVs and dumping them is beyond me!

For all the conveniences of home of included in modern RVs, trash containers are usually conspicuously absent.   In nearly 40 years of RV ownership I've only had one or two that came with even a small built-in trash can, about the size you normally use in a bathroom, certainly not adequate for a weekend family outing.   Some of the huge, luxury, bus conversions may have trash compactors, but even those seem to be few and far between.  A couple of motorhomes I owned had little a wastebasket built in to the counter top behind the sink.  In all other cases, we've had to "make do" with plastic trash bags or putting a modest sized trash can in a cabinet or even in the shower in some cases.   RV stores have plastic bag holders that can be attached to the inside of a cabinet door that will turn ordinary plastic grocery bags into convenient temporary trash containers.  If you have to resort to putting a wastebasket in the shower, use a bungee cord or other strap to secure it so it doesn't tip over on the road.  The lack of trash receptacles in RVs reminds me of the anecdote about an architect who was designing a new cathedral.  He sent the plans to the Cardinal for review and they came back with just one question "Are they angels?"  After puzzling over the comment for some time, the architect discovered he had not included any restrooms in the design!   I guess RV designers must think their customers are angels and don't generate any trash while camping.  In reality the opposite is true. Camping often generates more trash than at home since we have a tendency to use more convenience foods, which means more packaging to dispose of.   I suppose the lack of a permanent trash container in an RV makes people use plastic bags and take the trash out more often instead of letting it collect and spoil in an enclosed space, but it sure is nice to have a handy trash can, especially when preparing meals.   And tent campers are not exempt!   You'll want to keep a trash receptacle handy when preparing your meals and cleaning up afterwards, even it its just a plastic bag clamped to the edge of your picnic  table or counter top.

Controlling outdoor trash.  Most developed campgrounds will have trash cans and/or dumpsters conveniently located so you can easily dispose of your trash.  They will often even have trash barrels at each camp site.  When boondocking you'll need to provide your own -- and remember: pack it in, pack it out!  Most of us don't have room to carry around a big trash can, but you can use large contractor trash bags, with or without a collapsible holder to corral your outdoor trash so it doesn't end up all over the landscape.   Even the slightest breeze will send loose napkins, paper plates, and paper cups, scattering.  Collapsible trash cans take up little room during transit but function like "real" garbage cans in camp.   Put a large plastic trash bag in one and you have really convenient garbage can.   When it comes time to empty it or head home, just pull out the bag and tie it off for transport to a proper disposal site.   I modified some "quad" camp chairs to hold plastic bags and serve as medium sized trash receptacles.  I removed the fabric seat then removed the back test.  The result is a sturdy square framework that takes up little room during transit but conveniently holds large plastic trash bags in camp.  I've since discovered leaf bag  holders designed to  hold large contractor trash bags for yard work that work the same way.  These collapsible containers are a handy way to handle trash in camp.

Incinerating your trash.  You can often reduce the amount of trash you have to store and bring home by burning combustible stuff in your campfire.   Make sure there are no pressurized containers (like whipped cream, shaving cream, paint, or cleaning supplies) in the trash you put into the campfire.  Otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise that may cause serious injuries when the cans explode.  Even tightly capped plastic water and soda bottles can explode with surprising force when they heat up, not to mention the toxic fumes from burning the plastic.  While plastic bottles don't generate the kind of lethal shrapnel that metal cans do, the explosions can send out a rain of hot coals and flaming debris.   Don't put batteries in the campfire.   They do not burn well, actually, not at all! However, paper goods (plates, napkins, cups, bowls, and packaging) can be burned.  Some folks prefer to avoid styrofoam or other plastic containers as they think they may emit toxic fumes when they burn, if you burn a lot at one time.    Most of the vapors from burning styrofoam are water and carbon dioxide, but they also emit a small amount of styrene and incomplete burning may result in carbon soot.   Tin and aluminum cans often find their way into fire pits, but someone will just have to fish them out and cart them away sooner or later. Some light-weight aluminum cans may melt and even burn in a very hot fire, but here again, you don't want to be breathing the fumes from burning metal.  Campfire coals can  get surprisingly hot, especially if they are fanned by a light breeze, which effectively acts like a blacksmith's bellows.  Aluminum vapor doesn't make a good lining for your lungs!   Better to crush cans and keep them separate for proper disposal or, better yet, recycling.   Crushing them reduces the space they'll take up and can be made into a game for the young people in camp.  Stomping down aluminum cans is pretty easy.   I've seen guys who think they're macho, smash them against their foreheads, but I certainly don't condone or recommend the practice!   Putting non-combustible materials in your campfire will soon fill the fire pit and make it ineffective and unsafe.   You can probably get away with burning paper plates that still have food on them if no one is sitting around the campfire.   Burning food can sometimes produce offensive odors, so burn such things before people gather around the fire or after they've gone or, at the very least, get their permission before dumping a bunch of smelly garbage into the fire.  Wet kitchen garbage won't burn well and may smolder and give off smoke and offensive odors for a long time.  Some people are allergic to certain foods, and exposing them to the smoke could cause serious reactions.  If you insist on burning your peanut shells, you may need to have an epi-pen handy to counteract the anaphylactic shock that can result from an allergic reaction in someone who is allergic to peanuts.  Be considerate.

Tent campers should follow the advice above for controlling outdoor trash.   You may also find it convenient to hang a grocery bag inside your tent to collect candy wrappers, napkins, tissues, etc.  Another convenient spot for a trash bag is near your "kitchen" area or on the picnic table.  Having a place to collect trash instead of leaving it all over the place keeps your tent and your camp site neat and tidy and will save you a lot of time chasing errant trash and cleaning up at the end of the trip. Leaving trash lying around inside your tent invites pests -- insects and vermin -- that may chew up your gear as well as leave unwelcome, unpleasant, and unsanitary droppings.

Make it convenient.  The secret to keeping trash under control is to make it convenient to put it where it belongs.  Have trash cans or bags close where ever you are opening packages or preparing food.  Clamp one to the end of your picnic table.   Hang one on a door handle of your vehicle or RV. If you have to go all the way to the trash can in the shower in your RV to get rid of a hand full of trash it is likely to end up left out and get blown away.  But if you have trash bag handy, you can keep it all together and make only one trip to the trash can at the end of the activity.  Keep a bag near the entrance to your tent.   You might have a tendency to push it back out of the way, but then it won't get used.   Few RVs have garbage disposals.   Adding more solid waste to holding tanks isn't a very practical thing to do.   So food wastes go into the garbage.   Using small trash cans or bags and emptying to disposing of them frequently helps prevent the accumulation of smelly garbage in your tent or RV.

Collapsible trash cans are a convenient way to corral camp trash.  They are inexpensive and take up little room in transit.  Line them with a plastic bag to avoid permanent stains and odors.  The bags can be deposited in the local dumpster or tied tight and hauled home for proper disposal.   Collapsible trash cans come in a variety of sizes so they can be easily adapted to just about any need -- kitchen, bathroom, or outdoors.  They are especially useful when you have a place to dispose of the bags of trash so you can close them down again for the trip home.   Before the nylon collapsible trash bags became readily available, I cut down some inexpensive camp chairs to make them into trash bag holders.   Essentially I reduced the chairs to their metal frameworks and removed the backrests, leaving a 4-posted collapsible frame to which I could attach trash bags.  Worked like a charm. Another handy tip is to use or re-purpose an old collapsible clothes hamper as a trash bag holder.

At the end of your outing, have everyone make a pass through your campsite and adjacent areas and pick up an errant trash that has managed to escape.  When I was in the army they called it "policing the area" and the drill sergeant who sent us out  about arms length apart barked all he wanted to see was "backsides and elbows".  Of course his exact words were a little more colorful but you get the picture.  That way you leave the site in good condition for the next camper (who could be you again!).  If you leave your trash behind you invite the next person to do the same.  If you clean it up, you're setting a good example and encouraging subsequent users to keep it clean. Involving everyone in your group will also help them appreciate how important is it keep control of their trash through the outing and make the task go faster.

Most developed campgrounds have large trash receptacles (cans or even dumpsters) for your use but when boondocking you'll be responsible for hauling out your own trash.    Never leave your trash bags in camp or along the road.   Be sure to close the lids on any public trash receptacles when you use them.

Make sure any leftover trash you have to take home is well contained.  Tie off plastic trash bags, even those in waste baskets to prevent them getting spilled and to control foul odors.  Double-bag anything that has potential for making a mess -- things with sharp edges and particularly nasty or gooey stuff. I'd rather waste a couple of trash bags than have to scrub crud out of my carpet or have it seep under cabinets!   Ordinary plastic grocery bags make pretty good trash bags.   For larger, stronger choices, purchase kitchen trash bags or even contractor trash bags.

Keep it clean!

Monday, November 12, 2012

Hygiene and Sanitation Options for Tent Camping and Survival

One of the fundamental features of RVs that is so appealing to people is how they emulate many the conveniences of home.  On board systems provide sleeping, cooking, water, climate control, and bathroom services.   But you don't have those same built in facilities when tent camping or in a wilderness survival situation.

Campground facilities can sometimes be used.   Commercial campgrounds often have full service restrooms with flush toilets, sinks, and hot showers.  More primitive places may have only a few central water faucets and some pit toilets -- or just pit toilets, which are usually adequate (though often quite nasty!) for most tent camping needs.  However, if you choose to take advantage of boondocking in "open camping" and other primitive areas such as those offered by the BLM in many locations and by forest services in some areas, you will be dependent on what you bring with you.

Boondocking options are limited to what you can reasonably transport along with your regular camping equipment.   The most basic tools for personal hygiene and washing dishes is a water jug and a small, plastic dishpan.  If you want hot water for dishes, washing, shaving, etc, you can heat it in a pan or teapot on your campfire or camp stove.   For more convenience there are portable sinks, some with built-in water reservoirs and manual pumps that make them pretty easy to use.  In some cases you may be able to dig your own latrine for temporary toilet facilities.  A really simple toilet option that I've seen used in truck campers and very small camping trailers, is a folding toilet.  It consists of a toilet seat with legs that fold up like a camp stool.  Plastic bags are fastened underneath the seat to collect wastes for proper disposal.  It is not the ideal solution, but is far more convenient and familiar than an open latrine.   For a more home-like solution, get a "Port-a-potty".  These are made of plastic and the box-like construction includes a built-in clean water reservoir and pump and a small holding tank.  The lid is usually padded so they can be used as an ordinary seat or footrest when not in actual use as a toilet.   Some other variations, often offered as disaster toilets, are seats that attach to an ordinary plastic 5-gallon bucket.  I've seen some that fasten into the hitch receiver on the back of a tow vehicle.  No doubt these are much sturdier than the folding type if there is any question of sturdiness.   Port-a-pottys require chemicals like those used in RV holding tanks to break down wastes and control odors and must be dumped in toilets or in approved dump stations.  Dumping chemically treated wastes in some pit toilets or septic systems may be prohibited because the chemicals interfere with the normal process in the system.   Holding tank chemicals may be used in plastic bags on folding portable toilets and bucket toilets to reduce odors.  You can buy special waste collection and disposal bags called "wag bags" that  contain a  gel to control odors and reduce spillage.

Disposal of gray water usually isn't a major problem.  Many primitive campgrounds provide sumps where dishpans can be safely dumped.   These are often old perforated 55 gallon drums buried in the ground and partially filled with sand and gravel.  If the campground has any sewer plumbing at all, you may be able to dump dishpans down a sink drain or toilet (check with your camp host first).   Always follow the posted guidelines you will usually find near a common sink in a campground.  When boondocking in remote areas, you may be able to dump lightly contaminated water onto the ground, but check with the land manager prior to exercising this option.   In many places dumping of ANY waste water onto the ground is strictly prohibited.  If it is allowed, make sure you are a safe distance from any spring, stream, lake, or well (usually at least 200 feet) and dump it where it won't flow onto any camp site, trail, or road.

Toilet wastes can only be disposed of in a toilet or an approved dump station.  Even dumping Porta-a-pottys into a pit toilet may cause problems and may be prohibited.  NEVER empty your Porta-a-potty onto or into the ground!   If you happen to be tent camping in a site with full RV hookups, do not attempt to dump your Porta-a-potty into the sewer connection at the site.  These connections do not include a catch basin to prevent ground contamination.  Some portable toilets may have a connection for an RV style dump hose and those might be used successfully in a sewer connection, but take extra care to ensure the hose doesn't slip out of the sewer pipe while you are emptying your toilet.   You won't like cleaning up the mess it makes!

Portable hot water heaters add a level of comfort and convenience seldom found in tent camping until the last few years.   Until they came out, you had to heat your water in pans on your campfire or camp stove.   That worked OK for doing dishes and shaving, but was pretty inconvenient for showers or bathing.  Propane powered portable hot water heaters can be hooked up to provide home-like showers.  You'll probably need a shower enclosure, an inexpensive self-standing 360 degree shower curtain that provides enough privacy to enjoy your hot shower.

Sun showers are a very economical and ecological option.  They consist of a plastic bag, usually about 3 gallons, that is left out to be heated by the sun.  Putting it on the hood of your car is a good place for it to get full sun and be safe.  When you're ready to use it, hang it high enough to use the attached hose and shower head.  You may also want to use a shower enclosure for privacy, depending on just how remote your camp site is.

Food wastes should be incinerated or placed in tightly closed plastic bags.  That includes scraps from meal preparation and any left overs from plates at the end of the meal.  Food wastes can attract unwanted visitors from the local fauna, including large and dangerous animals such as bears as well as pests such as ants and rodents.  Another option is to dispose of food wastes in your campfire so there are no scraps left to attract pests.  I find using paper plates a good way to reduce washing dishes -- and an easy way to dispose of scraps by putting the whole mess into a roaring fire . Just make sure what you're burning will not create obnoxious fumes for your fellow campers around the fire.

Portable sinks can make life in camp more comfortable.  A simple plastic wash basin or dishpan will provide minimum functionality.   You can pick up a sink stand at a military surplus store.  It folds flat, like an old camp stool for transport and storage, but securely holds a large plastic bowl when opened. I have a portable sink I bought years ago.  Glad I did.   I haven't seen any more like it since then and the closest ones I've found on the Internet are pretty pricey.  It is molded into a water jug so it has its own reservoir built in.   It is about the size of a 5-gallon water jug. A  small hand-operated plastic pump pumps water from the reservoir through the faucet for brushing your teeth, shaving, and washing up.  A hose connected to the drain on the bottom of the sink carries away waste water to a bucket under your table.  An quick Internet search revealed a variety of portable sink options, ranging from simple manually pumped ones more or less like mine to large ones with battery operated pumps that give you near residential functionality.  They're not cheap. Even the manual, self contained version runs about $75-80.  Or you can make your own. I've seen people cut on opening in a portable portable plastic picnic table to accommodate a plastic dishpan, then add a faucet and hook it up to a campground faucet using a potable water hose.  If you want hot water, you'll need to heat it in a pan on your camp stove or campfire or break down and buy a portable hot water heater.  A water jug and a simple battery operated pump can add convenience.   Some portable camp kitchens have a sink option, making food preparation and doing dishes a lot easier.

Wet wipes are convenient for quick touch ups between showers.  Sometimes you can buy generic wet wipes or baby wipes at dollar stores, so they don't have to be expensive.   Make sure you dispose of them properly when you've finished using them.  They don't break down well in Porta-Pottys and RV sewer systems.

Cat baths are a good way to clean up when tent camping.  All you need is a small pan or pool of water and a sponge or rag and a towel -- or some wet wipes.  Cat baths won't be very effective in handling large amounts of dirt and grime but can take care of dirt normally accumulated in routine daily activities.

Hand sanitizer is a quick and easy way to make sure your hands aren't contaminated with dangerous germs when eating or preparing food.  You can usually find several different sized containers at your local dollar store, making it cheap and easy to provide individual bottles for each person.

Survival hygiene.  If you find yourself in survival mode, you'll probably have little or no hygiene supplies with you.   Wash up in a stream or lake if you get the chance.  Fine sand or silt might help remove grease or heavy grime.  Lacking sufficient water for any kind of clean up, air or smoke showers will help freshen your body and your clothes.  Both sunlight and smoke can kill offensive and unhealthy bacteria.  To take an air shower remove as much clothing as modesty permits and expose your body to fresh air and sunlight.  Take care not go get sunburned!  For a smoke shower, add punky wood, sage brush, or green leaves or branches to your fire, then let the smoke flow over your body.  The smoke will help kill bacteria that causes odors and disease and burning sage brush or pine boughs will add a pleasant fragrance that can further disquise body odors. You can chew pine or juniper needles to help clean your mouth.  Doesn't taste very good (kind of bitter), but it does kill bacteria and clean your teeth.  Don't swallow.   If you need leaves for toilet paper, be sure to test them on your arm about an hour before using them to avoid some VERY unpleasant itches and rashes in sensitive places!  Crush or fold the leaves and rub some of the juice on bare skin.   If there are no problems within an hour, they should be safe to use.  Far better to deal with skin irritations on your arm where you can treat them than on more sensitive and remote body parts.  You can add ashes from your campfire to greasy pans to create a rudimentary sort of soap to help clean them.  Here is  link for making homemade soap from ashes and animal fat.  Here is a Youtube video that shows how.  Simply using ashes to scrub greasy pans is a kind of short cut and may be useful for quick cleanups in a survival situation.

Clean up!

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Stocking Your Camp Kit

 Building a well stocked camp kit for tent camping may be a little more difficult than stocking an RV.  RVs give you places to organize your supplies and store them between uses so they're always ready to go.  Doing the same for tent camping requires a little more creativity.  Instead of cabinets, closets, and drawers like you have in an RV, you'll have to put your stuff in bins, bags, or boxes.  You'll want to find a place to keep it where it will be safe but easily accessed when you want to use it.

Properly stocking your camp kit is important for supporting spontaneous trips and so it can be useful in a disaster situation. Having basic, non-perishable supplies and equipment ready to go will make every trip easier.  You will want to organize your camping gear in a logical manner. Everything should be stored where you can get to it easily and where it is safe. Putting things in plastic tubs makes it easy to grab and go and protects your gear against moisture, insects, and vermin. I like using translucent tubs so I can kind of see what is inside, but you can label opaque containers using a Magic Marker or adhesive labels (or just masking tape) so you know what is where.  If you don't  have the budget for plastic tubs or the room to store them, duffle bags, contractor trash bags,or even ordinary cardboard boxes can be used.  If you can't see what is inside and it isn't obvious (like sleeping bags and tents) mark the outside of the container so you can find what you need when you need it.  Duct tape makes a good label to write on with a marker.  If you are worried about being able to remove it, use blue painter's tape.

It will be easier to use your stuff if like things are stored together. Put all your kitchen stuff in one or two tubs. I put big stuff like pots and pans in one and smaller things like cooking utensils, table cloths,  dishtowels, and spices in another. You might want to allocate some of your dishtowels to pad the pots and pans or other dishes too to reduce noise and minimize scratching or otherwise damaging items.

A chuck box is a good way to organize your kitchen stuff for camping.  It gives you a place to store, organize, carry, and used your kitchen items.  For maximum flexibility in creating a custom space, build your own.  If you choose to purchase a commercial version, be sure to measure your vehicle carefully to make sure it will fit.  

Food requires special consideration. You don't want to store any perishable foods in your camping tubs. But you will want to organize durable basic ingredients so they're always ready to go. Things like sugar, salt, flour, and pancake mixes can be stored in air-tight plastic containers and they should keep for many months if they weren't contaminated to begin with. Things like spices and packaged sauce mixes usually do well if they are also kept in sealed containers. You want to make sure you don't have anything exposed that will attract mice or other vermin. Our volunteer fire department found MREs on our wildlands fire truck and in storage that had been chewed on by mice and had to be disgarded. These were factory sealed foil pouches you would think wouldn't give off any scent, but the mice still went after them. Basic spices, like salt and pepper, can usually be safely stored in your camp kit in sealed plastic containers to protect them from moisture and pests.

Cleaning supplies and sundries are often overlooked until you need them.  Think about what you normally use at home and which of them will be needed in camp.  Dish soap and hand soap come immediately to mind.  Paper towels are always useful in camp.  Hand sanitizer will be useful if you have to visit a less than stellar restroom and hand lotion will relieve the suffering from a variety of camp tasks you may not be accustomed to doing like chopping wood or doing dishes by hand.  A roll of paper towels will find many, many uses in camp.  In addition to the standard cleaning tasks for which they were intended, they can be used as place mats, napkins, and handkerchiefs and as temporary covers to protect food from marauding insects.  They can even be used to clean wounds or as pressure pads to control bleeding. 

Clothing is something you may want to pack specifically for each outing rather than have a lot of stuff packed away in bins. If you do choose to have some clothing prepared, inventory it periodically to make sure it isn't damaged and that it is appropriate for the time of year. Hauling around bins full of parkas and snowsuits all summer will be a waste of space and energy. Having your favorite bikinis or speedos tucked away on winter outings probably won't be very helpful even if they don't take up a lot of room.  Not very many of us pursue 'polar bear' dipping in frozen waters.  BTW, regardless of how cold the air may be, fresh water, in liquid form, will never be less than 32°F.  Anyplace (like a canteen or drinking glass) that contains both ice and water will be exactly 32°F.  Since salt water freezes at a lower temperature than fresh water, salt water could be colder than 32°.  The actual freezing point depends on how much salt is in the water.  If it is fully saturated (has as much salt as possible, about 23.3%) the freezing point is around -69°F.

Camping gear should be clean, dry, in good repair, and well organized in storage. Try to keep like things together. Put all your tents and canopies on one shelf, hang sleeping bags to air out, store lanterns together, keep stoves and BBQs in a similar place. Remember to store your fuel safely. It isn't a good idea to store propane cylinders or gas cans in your living space or anyplace (like a garage, attic, or basement) connected to your living space. Miscellaneous supplies, like backpack pins, cord locks, lantern mantles, sewing kits, tent repair kits, etc. should be among your basic provisions and should be well organized and labeled so you can find them easily.  I like to stock up on these items before hand so I always have them on hand when needed.  I once paid something like $1.50 for two cord locks at a sporting goods stores when I needed them right away for a trip, then I was able to buy 50 of them on ebay for a few bucks.  Watch for mangers specials, closeouts, and end of season sales to get the most bang for your buck.

First aid kits should be kept up to date. I suggest you have a personal size pocket first aid kit for each member of your family or group and a larger group first aid kit for more serious injuries. From time to time I've found pocket first aid kits at Dollar Tree, so they don't have to be expensive.  Check the condition of adhesives on bandaids and adhesive tape. As it gets old it either dries out and no longer sticks at all or it gets slimy and lets the bandage slip all over the place. Some medications may show signs of deterioration. Liquids may change color or consistency, tablets may flake or get powdery. Aspirin gives off a strong vinegar smell when it gets old. Keep your medications up to date and make sure you replenish anything you use before your next trip. If you do a lot of hiking, moleskin is good to have in your kit to prevent and treat blisters.

Canteens, water bottles, and hydration packs should be cleaned and sanitized, then stored where they won't get dirt or bugs in them. Putting them in large Ziplock bags or sealable plastic storage containers will help.  Let them dry thoroughly before sealing them up.

Camp tools should be clean, well maintained, and conveniently organized. Axes and hatches should be sharp and the blades covered or protected. Protecting the blades is as much for your protection as for the sharpened edge.  An exposed blade can be a hazard and may be dulled by rubbing on things in transit.  Metal parts should be lightly oiled to prevent rust.  Shovel handles and other wooden handles should be smooth and kept oiled using linseed oil to avoid splinters. Hammers and other tools should be clean and free of rust. Handles that have dried out and gotten rough should be sanded and oiled.  BBQ tools should be clean. Any residual food or grease may attract insects or vermin or turn rancid and affect the flavor of your meal the next time you use them.

Periodically examine your camp kits and eliminate items you don't use. You may have things you brought along for a specific purpose for one specific outing that are just taking up valuable space on other ventures if no longer needed. You may have thought something would be useful but never got around to using it. If you aren't using it, take it out. The only exception to this rule is emergency supplies. By their very nature, emergency supplies are things you (hopefully) don't need very often, but will be essential in an emergency situation. Every unnecessary item you take out gives you that much more room for useful and essential items.

Build up your supplies over time to save money.   Unless you have an urgent and immediate need, make and prioritize a list, then watch for good deals on the things you need.  Check out garage sales and thrift stores and online sites like ebay and craigslist for durable goods and watch for sales on other items.   You local "dollar store" can be a treasure trove for cleaning supplies, sundries, OTC medications, and kitchen utensils.  I've even found hats, gloves, socks, t-shirts, and sunglasses there.  Try adding just one camping item to your regular shopping each week.  It usually won't add much to your expenditures, but over time you'll build up stock to sustain your outdoor activities.

Get it together!

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Kitchen Utensils for Camping

You probably haven't given much thought to choosing kitchen utensils for camping.  And that's OK.  Most people have enough experience in the kitchen to know that they're going to need and just duplicate that, or as much as they think they'll need for camping.  However, there are some choices for camping that work better than what you normally use at home and having dedicated utensils for camping will make loading and unloading for each trip easier.  What you take with you may depend partially on whether you're in an RV or are tent camping.  If you're in an RV, you probably want to maintain a pretty well stocked kitchen, similar to what you have at home.   However, you may have space limitations.  If you're tent camping, you may need to limit the amount of stuff you have to carry around.   Even in an RV your drawer space will probably be a lot smaller than at home so you may want to downsize some items and seek multi-use tools to reduce how many things you have to sort through when you need something.  You probably won't need everything you have at home.  Your menus will, to some extent, dictate what utensils you will need.  If you stick to a simple menu, you should be good to go with basic utensils. Another factor is the potential to be cooking on a campfire.  For campfire cooking you will not only need fire resistant utensils, but you will probably want ones with extra long handles for  safety and comfort.  Plastic utensils that work just fine at home and may even be preferred for non-stick pans may not be the best choice for campfire cooking.

The biggest difference will be the need for durability and resistance to fire.  The plastic utensils we favor to protect our Teflon cookware at home may not hold up to the rigors of camp cooking, especially if you're cooking on the campfire.   Camping also brings frequent distractions and plastic utensils left in the pan may quickly begin to melt.  I prefer solid stainless steel utensils, but steel items with wooden or heat-resistant plastic or wood handles usually work well, are sometimes less expensive, and last a long time if you keep the handles away from flames.   Stainless steel items can get hot so you might need gloves or hotpads.  Old-fashioned porcelain covered "speckleware" has a nice pioneer ambiance and works well for camping.   I have a meat fork, serving spoon, and ladle in "speckleware" or "graniteware".   I also have a set of speckleware soup spoons that are fun to use.  For really heavy duty stainless steel utensils, check out a restaurant supply store. However, you probably don't need to invest that much.   I've used the ones I bought at my local "dollar" store for decades without any problems.   The only issue I've had, is my wife liked my ladle so well she commandeered it for the home kitchen and I had to find another one.

Which utensils you need will ultimately depend on your menus and cooking style, but here are some basics most everyone will find useful:

      * cooking/serving spoons (I suggest at least 2)
      * slotted spoon
      * meat fork
      * spatulas (again I suggest having 2)
      * ladle
      * paring knife
      * small and medium butcher knives
      * dish towels and/or paper towels

 If you are into basting, you'll need a baster and/or a basting brush.  I would get a plastic baster rather than a glass one since it is less fragile and less likely to break rattling around on the road.  If you like spaghetti or pasta, a claw-style spaghetti spoon is good to have.   You'll need some cutlery too. I like to have at least a couple of different sized butcher knives, a bread knife, and a paring knife or two. Having sharp instruments rattling around in the kitchen drawers dulls them and makes retrieving anything from the drawers dangerous so I like to keep them in one of the wood-block knife holders on the counter or in a cupboard and secure it with Velcro or small bungee cords.  Another good way to keep them safe and handy is to store them on a magnetic knife rack.  Or you can put protect each one in its individual PVC pipe container.  Cut a section of PVC pipe  a bit longer than the knife from pipe with an inside diameter big enough to accommodate the widest part of the blade and/or handle.  Then cap it on both ends with PVC pipe caps, but don't glue them on!  Then mark the pipe using a permanent marker so you know exactly what is inside (3" paring knife, 5" butcher knife, etc.).  The only problem with this solution is it takes up more room in the drawer.

Make sure you have can and bottle openers.   I once arrived in camp many miles from home and didn't realize until I started to fix some canned chili for dinner that I didn't have a can opener on board.   Now I make sure I have manual can opener in my motorhome, in my truck camper, and in my tent camping tub.   And I carry a supply of Army "P-38" or "P-51"can openers.  They are small and sometimes difficult to use, but they are better than trying to open a can with a pocket knife.  P-38 and P-51 can openers are especially convenient for hiking and back packing but are a handy addition to any camp kit.  They take up almost no room.  P-38s are about 1 1/2" x 1/2".The P-51s are larger, giving  you a bit more leverage.  Either one can be carried on a key ring with your keys but I found the sharp edge sometimes cut my pockets.

Measuring cups have many uses in camp.  Most sets stack within themselves so they take up little room but collapsible measure cups are even more compact.  They can even be hung on the inside of an RV or chuck box cabinet door for convenient access without taking up much usable space.

An item I've seen promoted as the best kitchen utensil ever for RV use is a pot strainer.   This is a flat, crescent shaped strainer with a handle that you can use on just about any pot or pan, eliminating the need for a collander or bulky strainer.  Would be really handy if you cook a lot of pasta.

Having dedicated utensils for camping adds convenience and helps reduce the possibility of forgetting something you need.  I have a Class A motorhome, a truck camper, and a tent camping setup and I keep all three stocked separately so I'll have what I need when I need it without having to remember to transfer things for each outing.  My RV and camper stuff is conveniently stored in the galley cabinets and drawers.  Our sailboat has its own sliding galley made from a chuck box that we keep fully stocked.  Tent camping utensils reside in a translucent plastic tubs that are easy to transport to the campsite and keeps things clean and sanitary in camp and between trips.  I know for sure from experience that if I have to switch things around for each trip, I will forget something!

Don't let these recommendations keep you from camping with what you have on hand.  If dedicated utensils for camping aren't in your budget yet or you don't have time to get them before your trip, borrow from your kitchen and hit the road.   Just be careful that you don't destroy or lose your home utensils in camp.  When you are ready to buy a set of utensils dedicated to camping, check our your local dollar store or thrift store before spending lots of money in department or restaurant supply stores.   That way, if something does get lost or destroyed, you're not out a lot of money and can easily replace it.  Sometimes it makes sense to upgrade your home cookware and re-purpose the old stuff for camping.  Also, before you head to the store, be sure to check out what you have on hand.  If you have duplicates you can spare or some old stuff you were saving to give to charity, you may be able to fill your camping needs without spending any money.  If painted handles have worn you can easily sand them down and repaint them to give them new life in your camp kit.  That way you can even make a matching set out of a bunch of odds and ends.  Using a unique color will also help you keep track of your stuff in camp and avoid getting them confused with other people's stuff or with the stuff you use at home.

Camp cooking is fun!

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Options for Powered Tent Camping

When I was growing up, the gasoline powered Coleman stove and Coleman lantern were the top of the line equipment for tent camping. Most of us cooked on the campfire and used flashlights, candles or kerosene lanterns for light. Kerosene lanterns were -- and still are -- generally less expensive and many people in my rural neighborhood used kerosene for several purposes around their ranches or farms so fuel was readily available.  Tents were mostly bulky canvas things with heavy wooden poles.  I envied the more affluent campers who brought white gas powered Coleman lanterns that produced a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb. The kerosene lanterns produced a modest orange-yellowish light that seemed (and is) dim and inferior by comparison. Some folks still use kerosene lanterns, mostly for nostalgic reasons, and they are still a viable and economical option. If you don't like the smell, run them on liquid paraffin, which is odorless, or scented lamp oil. Citronella oil helps repel insects. There is a nostalgic feeling that comes with campfire cooking, but a good camp stove gives you far greater control, is a lot easier to u use, and is ready much faster. Few of us have the patience to wait for a campfire to burn down to coals that are best for cooking, which is one reason so many marshmallows go up in flames! Camp stoves are usually less likely to be affected by fire restrictions.  Tents have come a long way.  A large family can be quite in a surprisingly light weight nylon dome tent.

Today there are many options for light and cooking, plus tent heaters and even portable hot water systems to add convenience and comfort to our outings. Portable generators, having become smaller, quieter, and less expensive, are also becoming more popular, allowing tent campers to enjoy electronic entertainment systems and small appliances previously only available to RVers. Many portable generators are fairly light weight and easy to transport. They are very quiet and quite fuel efficient. If you have room for them they make a good addition to a truck camper, small travel trailer, or tent camping gear.

Camp stoves. Where once the legendary Coleman gas stove dominated the scene there are now many options to choose from. Coleman has added propane powered stoves in both the 2-burner and 3-burner sizes in addition to their traditional gasoline models. There are advantages to each fuel. Propane doesn't spill. Gasoline is usually cheaper, especially if you have a dual-fuel stove that will run on ordinary unleaded gas in addition to "Coleman Fuel" or white gas. Such a stove would be a good candidate for emergency preparedness since you could siphon fuel from your vehicle if necessary. For tent camping, backpacking, or anytime space is limited, there are single-burner butane powered stoves, the camping equivalent of a "hot plate". They are compact and light weight but require special fuel cylinders about the size and shape of a can of shaving cream. The small size and relatively high cost of these fuel cylinders make them more expensive to operate and require more frequent changing of fuel cylinders than propane-powered units. There are some small single-burner propane stoves, sometimes called "grasshoppers" because of their silhouette. They usually run on the small, 1-lb propane cylinders. Extremely light weight backpacker stoves are also available. They usually run on small butane canisters and take up little space in your pack. They are suitable for preparing single servings. It would take a long time to cook a meal for a family of 4 using one of these. There are conveniently sized butane powered stoves that come in a plastic case about the same size as cordless electric drill case.  The are handy for fixing meals or hot drinks for one or two people.  For larger groups, Camp Chef offers a variety of larger propane-powered stoves with a delightful set of options including grills, griddles, and a BBQ box. These tend to be a little bulky and heavy if you have far to carry them so they're best used in car-camping or to supplement the RV lifestyle. They are especially useful if you have to prepare large quantities to feed a group. The size and BTU ratings allow you to use full-size stock pots that would overwhelm ordinary camp stoves or be difficult to manage on a campfire.  Another fairly recent addition are propane powered residential styled stoves like this one from Coleman, that look and function much like a gas range at home.  The are smaller, but have 2 or 3 burners on top and a fully functional (if a little small) oven.  They're quite a bit more expensive than the traditional camp stoves, but offer more familiarity and convenience.  They run around $250 new but I've seen used ones on ebay for as little as $100.

Tent heaters. For years the gasoline-powered Coleman infra-red heater was the standard for tent heaters.

I used one of these to heat an enclosed motorcycle heater for several years until I installed a propane furnace out of a wrecked camper. One downside is you have to plan ahead to get them going outdoors for about an hour before bringing them into the area to be heated. The style I had required you to hold it up-side-down until a dollar-size spot of wet fuel showed on the fabric dome. Then light it and wait several minutes for the flames to die down. Once the flames died down the heater could be moved inside the trailer or tent. The dome usually gave off a faint red glow when it was working.  You may have to search ebay or other online sites for "vintage coleman tent  heater" to find one for sale.  More modern, propane powered catalytic heaters are easier to ignite and use but while catalytic heaters do not give off smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen so they MUST be used with adequate ventilation. Even seasoned campers have been known to lose their lives when they forgot to leave a window open when using a tent heater. Military style tent stoves sometimes used gasoline or used motor oil or wood as fuel. You might still get your hands on one of these at a garage sale or army surplus outlet. They are usually rather heavy and bulky and can be dangerous to use if you are not familiar with their operation and follow instructions precisely. These types of stoves do give off smoke and toxic fumes and require a chimney to the outside, which presents its own hazards. The area where the stovepipe passes through the tent fabric to the outside must be fireproof. Large tent heaters are only practical in base camps where you don't have to carry them far from your vehicle. Some of the smaller propane-powered catalytic heaters might be light enough to carry in your back pack.

Illumination. The venerable Coleman lantern is still a standard fixture for most campers. Propane versions avoid the dangers of spilling liquid fuel and eliminate the need to periodically pump up the fuel pressure, but you can't easily refill them if you run out of fuel. However, they share the vulnerability of the gas lanterns in the use of silk mantles that are burned to ash to be used and are very delicate. If you are using a lantern that needs mantles, always bring a pack of a half dozen or so for a weekend outing. Your lantern will be useless without them. Battery and solar powered lanterns are becoming more popular as battery technology provides longer life and higher power and LED bulbs reduce power requirements. Battery powered lanterns eliminate the fire hazard often associated with gas or propane lanterns and therefore are ideal options in tents. However, gas and propane lanterns are also a source of heat that is sacrificed if you use battery lights. Some battery powered lanterns include remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag, a very nice feature on cold nights. Some are rechargeable and can be recharged from an ordinary 120 volt AC power source or from the cigarette lighter style power receptacle in your vehicle. Some have built-in solar chargers so you can charge your lantern for free during the day and have it ready to use at night. Some use ordinary "D" or "C" cell or big square 6-volt batteries so you can just bring along plenty of spares and you'll be in good shape. The most efficient versions use LEDs instead of energy-hogging incandescent bulbs.

Larger propane cylinders can be refilled at propane sellers.  The smaller ones normally used in lanterns are usually just tossed and replaced but you can but an adapter that lets you refill them from a bulk propane cylinder, like the one used for your BBQ.  The easiest way to deal with running out of propane is to carry plenty of spare cylinders.  Stock up on them when you find them on sale.

Portable hot water heaters. These days you can buy portable hot water systems you can take tent camping. They are propane powered and usually provide enough hot water for 1-2 showers. They are too big and heavy to consider for back-packing, but if you are car-camping, they might be a nice addition. Bring along a shower enclosure and you can have an almost residential-style shower anywhere. These can be nice additions to any RV that is lacking shower facilities or if you have so many people you overwhelm the hot water heater as well as serving tent campers. Sunshowers are solar-heated bags that rely only on sun to heat the water and on gravity to feed the shower head to they are environmentally friendly and economical to use. Simply fill the bag with water, let it lie in the sun for a while. Putting in the hood or roof or your vehicle or laying it directly on hot blacktop are good options. When it has been heated to the desired temperature, simple hang it from a tree, canopy, or any convenient location. Here again,  use a portable shower enclosure for privacy.

Electricity in camp was once almost the exclusive prerogative of large motorhomes. Even few travel trailers had on-board generators in "the old days". Today many travel trailers come with generators as options or sometimes standard equipment and many more owners bring along portable units. Many portable units are also suitable for car-camping in a tent. Large motorhomes and trailers need 4000 watts or so to power roof air conditioners. Smaller units are less expensive, quieter, are easier to transport, and are more fuel efficient while providing adequate power for most camp use -- TVs, laptops, battery chargers, simple kitchen appliances like mixers and blenders, and even microwaves. Come night time, they can be used to run electric lights to illuminate your camp site as well as power entertainment systems. Modern portable generators are light weight and quiet, lending themselves well to tent camping. In a pinch you might also run a small electric heater in your tent.  Just be sure to keep away from the walls or anything else combustible.  Or hook up your electric blanket!

Portable refrigerators. Motorhomes and travel trailers usually have propane powered refrigerators that provide performance that nearly matches that of your residential unit. Tent camping has traditionally been limited to using ice chests to preserve perishable foods and keep our drinks cold. Today there are ice chests that use theromelectric technology that can either heat or cool the chest. Most of these units run on 12-volt DC power and can be plugged into any cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle. Long haul truckers often use these to good advantage on the road but they can also be used in camping and avoid frequent trips to the camp store for more ice. As with an RV refrigerator, turn it on a day or two before your planned departure to get it cooled and ready to use. Keep an eye on the charge level of your batteries so you don't run down your starting battery keeping your beer cold! And periodically check the function switch to be sure it hasn't accidentally been turned from "COOL" to "WARM".

Solar and wind power. Solar panels are slowly becoming more affordable and more portable. A small solar panel for helping maintain battery charge in storage is available at automotive supply stores for under $20. You plug it into your cigarette lighter and leave it on the dashboard to provide a trickle charge to help maintain batteries during storage. These little units aren't enough to recharge depleted batteries or meet the demands in camp. Larger units are available, with enough power to run TVs and laptops, but they are still quite expensive and fairly bulky. I've seen some innovative campers set up wind generators. I haven't tried this so I can't attest to the effectiveness, but it might be worth looking into. Commercial wind generators can be quite expensive. I've seen home-made ones that use an automotive alternator that may be able to provide enough power to maintain the charge on a couple of 12-volt deep cycle batteries -- if you get enough breeze. The trick is building and then transporting the blades and support tower. The tower must be tall enough to reach the wind, sturdy enough to withstand the wind and the vibration of the alternator, and yet be light enough and able to be dismantled for transport. Plans for such home-made wind generators can be found on the Internet. Personally I would think a home-made wind generator would be better suited for a mountain cabin or emergency retreat than for tent or even RV camping.  Solar panels can be mounted on RV roofs or set up externally outside a tent or RV making them quite convenient.  Initial cost and installation is bit pricey, but once installed or set up in camp you get your energy from the sun for free!

Tent cooling. I've yet to see a practical air conditioner for tent camping, but there are plenty of battery-powered fans that can help evacuate heat from tents and provide a comfortable breeze to improve personal comfort. I have seen people spray the window screens with mist or even hang wet towels near windows to create a kind of rudimentary evaporative cooling system. If you want to try either of these techniques, take care not to let the mist or wet towels drip on your sleeping bag, clothing, or gear, or create puddles on the floor of the tent. Use your rain fly, if your tent has one, or add a tarp over the top of your tent to shade it from direct sunlight to help keep it cooler. Or just set it up where it will be shaded most of the day.  I did see plans for a tent air conditioner  Basically it is a foam ice chest, a battery powered fan, and a LOT of ice.  I don't know how well it would work and you would need a continuous supply of ice to keep it going.  I have tried small battery powered cooling units (about the size of a softball) that use specially frozen cold packs or just evaporative cooling pads and found they didn't put out enough air to be very helpful.  They might work as personal cooling systems to cool your face but they're too small to cool very much space in a tent or RV.

Power up!