Winterhoming

OK, what the heck IS "winterhoming"?  Well,  simply put, it is motorhoming in the winter.

Most camping is done in the summer time, or at least spring or fall, but there are sometimes good reasons to use your RV in the winter too.  An RV makes an excellent chalet or base camp for skiing, snowboarding, ice fishing, and other snow based activities -- if is is properly equipped.  Most RVs made and used in the U.S. are not designed for winter use and most owners who live in cold country have to winterize their rigs and retire them until warm weather returns.  However, it is possible to upgrade many RVs for winter use.  BTW, some Canadian made RVs are more likely to come from the factory equipped for winter weather.

While the comfort of the occupants is, of course, the major function of an RV in winter, the biggest problem is usually protecting the plumbing against freezing.  Sometimes an RV furnace may not be adequate to maintain a comfortable temperature inside.  If that is the case you either need to reduce heat loss or increase BTUs.  It usually isn't very practical to increase the insulation factor in an RV, but a lot of heat may be lost through drafts and through insufficiently protected windows.  I once had a Class B van conversion that, I found, had NO insulation at all and it was fairly easy to remove wall and ceiling panels and cut styrofoam panels to fit each space, significantly improving insulation.  But it is usually too intrusive and too expensive to increase the insulation in standard RVs. Sometimes you can gain access to interior paneling on external walls to add foam or bats of insulation, but usually it would be way to destructive, expensive, and counterproductive.  What you can improve fairly easily and cheaply is the insulation value for the windows.  First of all, make sure you take advantage of whatever window coverings you have -- close the curtains, drapes, or shades.  You can add reflective foam insulation similar to windshield sun screens between the window coverings and the windows.  You may want to try adding plastic "storm windows" over the windows.  You can get kits to do this from your local hardware store or home center.  They consist of a plastic film that is stretched over the windows and then tightened using a heat gun or hair dryer.   Also install a cover or foam pillow to block the loss of heat through the roof vents.  Even when they are closed, the thin cover allows a lot of heat to escape.  Search for and seal off any drafts where cold air enters through the firewall of a motorhome or around plumbing and power cords or around doors and windows of any RV.  If after doing all of this your furnace still doesn't keep things warm enough, you may need auxiliary heat.  Options include electric heaters if you stay in campgrounds with electric service, a catalytic heater, adding another furnace, or upgrading the existing furnace to one with a higher BTU output.  Upgrading or adding a furnace can be an expensive proposition and is likely to require significant modifications for installation of a larger unit.  Catalytic heaters don't use any battery power since they have no fans and portable versions attach to 1-lb propane cylinders to they don't require any gas line attachments.  Keep in mind even heaters rated for indoor use will consume oxygen even if they don't release any toxic fumes, so proper ventilation is critical.   Seems counterintuitive to open windows when you are trying to heat a space, but you will suffocate if you don't!   Check inside cabinets for openings around plumbing where cold air might get in.  These can usually be sealed easily by stuffing foam into the gaps or by using spray foam insulation available at any home center or hardware store.  Take care not to over do it with the spray foam.  That stuff expands a lot and is difficult to remove if it gets on surfaces where you don't want it.  Make sure the weatherstripping on your doors is in good shape and that the caulking around windows hasn't shrunk or have any gaps.

Electric heaters are an easy way to get extra interior heat -- if you have shore power or when you can run your generator.  A popular option among many RVers is an "electric fireplace" that not only provides heat but adds a kind of cabin-like ambiance.  I even have a small, 300 watt heater that runs on 12 volt DC I can use in my motorhome in a pinch, but I'm sure it would drain the batteries pretty quickly.  I found a neat little 120 volt heater that plugs directly into a wall outlet so it takes up little room.  The digital temperature control makes it easy to maintain a comfortable setting in a small space.  Auto parts stores sometimes offer 12-volt powered heater/defroster units that plug into the 12-volt receptacle (i.e., cigarette lighter) and can help clear fog or frost off the windshield.  These units will provide a small amount of auxiliary heat but would not be very effective in as room heaters.  If you have 120 volt power available you can also protect your holding tanks with specially designed heating pads and protect plumbing in exterior cabinets with a 100 watt incandescent bulb (if you can still find one!  They are being phased out due to energy concerns).  There are 12-volt holding tank heaters too, but, again, I would be concerned about them draining the battery.  Any electric heater is essentially a dead short.  The heating elements are high-resistance wire.

Protecting exposed plumbing from freezing can be an onerous task.  Keeping the inside of your RV at 40° or better will normally protect all the inside plumbing, but exposed holding tanks, valves, and pipes are still vulnerable.  You will need electric heating pads and or heat tape to protect these components if you are camping in sub-freezing weather.  Heating pads for holding tanks are available in both 12 volt and 120 volt versions and some include dual power sources.  With dual power you can use your 12-volt system while traveling and power is available from the vehicle alternator.  120-volt operation requires shore or generator power.  You might run your generator while traveling to operate 120-volt heating pads.  It wouldn't consume any more energy than running your A/C on hot days.  If you have 12-volt heating pads you will want to carefully monitor your battery status.  They could easily run batteries down if they kick in at night when you turn off the generator.  One way to protect holding tanks for occasional winter use is to add enough antifreeze (marine/RV grade for potable water systems) to at least protect the dump valves and lower the freeze point within the tank contents.  If you rely on warm blankets or sleeping bags instead of your furnace to keep you warm at night, dump a cup or two of antifreeze into each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  You don't need antifreeze in the P-traps if your furnace keeps the interior above freezing.  If your RV has enclosed holding tanks and the dump valves are in a cabinet instead of hanging exposed beneath the vehicle you may be able to keep the valves from freezing by placing a 100-watt incandescent light bulb in he compartment.  Finding a 100-watt bulb these days might be difficult as they've been phased out for environmental reasons.  Using a 60-watt bulb might be sufficient, but using two 60-watt bulbs would be more than equivalent to a 100-watt bulb.  Or you might use special reptile heat lamp available at pet stores.  In any case, if the compartment isn't insulated, insulate it.  Outside compartments often have bare aluminum doors that allow a great deal of heat to escape.  Glue some styrofoam panels inside or even use reflective foam insulation like Reflectix.  Check for drafts around electrical and plumbing connections or around the door.  Random openings can be filled with spray foam insulation or stuff with fiberglass batting.  Poorly fitting doors may benefit from the addition of weatherstripping.  If you are connected to city water in freezing temperatures you will need a heated hose and will need to protect the faucet.  Even "frost proof" faucets will freeze if a hose is left connected.  It prevents them from letting the water drain out before it freezes.

RV skirts that surround the bottom of your RV can help keep the floors warmer and conserve heat.   They usually need to be custom made.  Vinyl skirts, made in several sections, can be carried on trips and installed when needed, but they can be pretty expensive.  Some people make skirts of plywood or styrofoam panels when the unit is parked in a fixed location for a while. Skirts are usually not practical for short stays or frequent relocation.

Resource conservation will be more difficult when it is cold.   You ARE going to use more propane and use it quicker than in warmer months.  You might reduce how much you use for heating by dressing warmer so you can be comfortable at a lower temperature.  Sweaters and thermal underwear can increase you comfort level in a cooler environment without being too cumbersome.  Warmer quilts and blankets or a winter sleeping bag can help keep you cozy in bed.  But your furnace isn't the only appliance that will use more propane in colder times.  Your hot water heater will need to work harder to maintain normal temperatures when it is cold outside and you are likely to use more gas for cooking simply because you will want more warm foods and drinks in cold weather.  The one appliance that might actually use less propane in cold weather is the refrigerator, but probably not significantly less since you are probably keeping the interior around a comfortable 72°.  Always make sure your propane tank is full when you leave on a trip.  For extended cold weather outings you may want to invest in an "Extend-a-stay" system that allows you to connect to an external propane tank to supplement your on board supply.  For trailers with removable propane tanks you can just bring a long a couple of extra tanks.

Winterhoming is cool!

RV Batteries

RV batteries are an essential part of making RVs convenient and comfortable.   On motorhomes there are two separate battery systems:  a starting battery for the engine, and deep cycle coach batteries.  The starting battery functions just like the battery in any other motor vehicle, providing power to start the engine and operate lights and other 12-volt vehicle features, like radios and power windows.  The battery is charged by an alternator driven by the engine.  Deep cycle coach batteries are used to supply power for lights, fans, furnaces, and some electronic devices in the RV.  There may be one or more 12-volt batteries or two or more 6-volt golf cart batteries .  12-volt batteries are connected in parallel to supply higher amperage.  6-volt batteries are connected in series to create 12 volts.  Golf cart batteries are usually stronger, more durable, and can be recharged more times than 12-volt deep cycle batteries.  The house batteries should also be charged by the vehicle alternator whenever the engine is running and the should be separated from the starting battery by a battery isolator.  A battery isolator allows the alternator to charge multiple banks of batteries but prevents them from drawing down each other so you don't drain your starting battery while running your RV lights and accessories.  It is convenient to have a switch to connect battery banks in case your starting battery runs down and you need power from the house batteries to start the engine or the house batteries run down and you need power to start the generator.  Some RVs even have a separate battery dedicated to starting the generator.

Other batteries.  The main focus of this article are the large (and expensive) 12-volt batteries that power your RV systems.  In addition to the 12-volt systems for your engine and your coach there are often other battery powered devices in your RV.  Smoke detectors usually use a 9-volt battery.  Remote controls for TVs, power awnings, etc usually use AA or AAA batteries.  You may have battery powered lights in cabinets or closets.  You may have battery powered lanterns and flashlights.  You will need to test the batteries in these devices regularly, especially before each trip, to be sure they will be functional when you need them.  For convenience, keep a battery tester in your RV or camp kit.  Carry spare batteries with you for all your devices.  And be sure to test your spare batteries before each outing.  They won't do you much good if they're dead.  One trick to keep batteries from running down in items in storage is to put one of the batteries in backwards.

Batteries are a critical component of the 12-volt electrical system that powers most RV lights and fixtures.  Not only do they provide power for the lights, but they also power control boards for furnaces, refrigerators, and hot water heaters.  Most modern furnaces also have a 12-volt fan.  Some older furnaces worked by convection only.  A convection furnace doesn't have a fan but it doesn't distribute the heat as well as a forced air model.  An anomaly of 12-volt furnaces is that when the batteries get low, the fan keeps running after the burner has shut off.  If you wake up in the middle of the night and your furnace is busily blowing cold air, your batteries may be low or you might be out of propane.  If that happens occasionally, (and you're not out of propane) you probably aren't charging your batteries enough during the day.  If it happens frequently, you probably need new batteries or a larger battery bank -- or don't run the furnace so much.

Pretty much all of these batteries are some form of lead-acid batteries.  Lead acid automotive batteries have been around since Cadillac introduced the first electric starters way back in 1912.  The basic design has not changed much in over a hundred years, but there have been some improvements.  Basic batteries use lead plates submerged in a solution containing sulfuric acid and are known as "flooded cell" batteries.   They have removable caps so you can check and replenish the water level as needed.  So-called "maintenance free" batteries are sealed and don't require the frequent addition of water in normal use.  Absorbed Gas Mat (AGM) batteries use saturated mats between the cells instead of liquid, reducing the chance of spillage.   Another option are gel cell batteries, in which the electrolyte, instead of being liquid sulfuric acid is a gel.  Gel cells are usually lighter than other batteries and very unlikely to spill.  By the way, it is best to only add distilled water when batteries need more liquid, but, in an emergency, ordinary tap water can be used.  The damage caused by contaminates in the tap water will be less than allowing the plates to be exposed.  Distilled water isn't very expensive.  It would be a good idea to carry a gallon jug of distilled water in your RV to top off your batteries as needed.  You can buy it at just about any grocery store for a dollar or so a gallon.  While you are at it, grab a cheap turkey baster to use to add water to your batteries.

Modern lithium ion technology has produced batteries that exceed the performance of lead-acid batteries but they are still rather expensive.  Keep an eye on this technology.  I have seen reconditioned medical grade lithium ion batteries offered for sale on ebay at fairly reasonable prices, so they might be worth looking into.   New lithium marine/RV batteries run $250-900 so they are quite a bit more expensive than traditional lead-acid batteries.  From time to time I have seen recycled medical lithium batteries on ebay for a couple hundred bucks, but they are not always available.  You also might need a different charger to properly charge lithium ion batteries.

As the push for hybrid vehicles drives battery technology, new types of batteries are coming on the market.  Some are much lighter than lead-acid batteries and deliver longer life and much better performance, but as of now they are significantly more expensive.  Direct replacement deep cycle lithium ion 12 bolt batteries are currently nearly $700 each, making them about 4 times the cost of a pair of 6-bolt golf cart batteries.  Their longer life might make them pay off in the long run but they are certainly a lot more expensive up front.  High performance, 80 amp lithium ion battery is over $1000 and will give 3,000-5,000 charging cycles.  I've even seen 300 amp batteries but they're big and heavy and expensive :  about $3500 each!  Lithium ion batteries allow you to use close to 100% of the capacity before needing to be recharged.  Lead-acid batteries only deliver about 50% of capacity before the voltage drops below workable levels.  A typical lead-acid 12 volt battery will read 12.volts when fully charged and about 11.4 volts when fully discharged.

Many RVs, (motorhome, trailers, and campers) have a single 12-volt deep cycle battery to provide power for all coach needs.  If you do a lot of boondocking you may find a single battery doesn't have enough reserve capacity to meet your needs.  When that happens you may be able to find a location where you can install a second battery.  Replacing a single 12-volt deep cycle battery with a pair of matching 12-volt batteries in parallel will just about double your reserve capacity.  Replacing a single 12-vole deep cycle battery with a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries in series will usually result in greater reserve capacity and longer battery life.  When installing 6-volt batteries they must be connected in series in order to produce 12 volts to run RV fixtures.  6-volt golf cart batteries are usually larger so you may have to enlarge the battery tray or find extra room someplace else if you want to convert to golf cart batteries. Make sure all connections between batteries are heavy gauge battery cables and that the 6-volt batteries are wired in series to create 12 volts. 6 volt golf cart batteries are usually larger than most 12 volt deep cycle batteries so you may have to modify the battery box and/or hold downs to accommodate them.  Motorhomes will have a separate automotive starting battery.  This should not be a deep cycle battery but in an emergency you may be able to borrow one of your coach batteries to replace a dead starting battery or use it to jump start your engine.  Some motorhomes have a switch on the dashboard that activates relays to connect the coach batteries with the starting batteries when you need extra starting power, precluding the need for jumper cables.   The jump start button can be used to start the vehicle engine using the coach batteries or to start the generator using the vehicle starting battery.   If you install extra batteries it is best to install them as close to the existing battery as possible and run heavy gauge battery cables between the batteries.  Batteries give off volatile gases (hydrogen) when they are being charged so they must be installed in a well ventilated space and should NOT be installed within the living area of an RV.  Suitable locations include outside cabinets and in the engine compartment of a motorhome or on the tongue of a trailer.

There is a growing trend to large battery banks and inverters in large luxury rigs in order to handle a demand for quiet, portable 120-volt power anywhere.  An inverter is a device that changes 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power.    This is convenient for running entertainment systems and microwave ovens.  Some large luxury motorhomes even have large enough battery banks to run residential style 120-volt refrigerators full time, but that takes a lot of batteries and frequent recharging.  Keeping the batteries charged becomes a primary concern.  They can be charged from shore power, an on board generator, or from solar panels.  Solar systems can be expensive but once they are installed you get free power from the sun.  Some RVs have inverters built it.  If yours does not, they can usually be added (if you have sufficient battery reserves).  For small 120-volt devices you can often use a fairly inexpensive inverter that plugs into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt outlet.  Large inverters, say 1500-2000 watts, need to be hardwired with large gauge wire and the output can be routed directly to dedicated outlets.  Some RVs have an option to switch selected outlets from shore/generator power to inverter for added convenience.  But unless you know for sure you have plenty of reserve battery power, running 120-volt appliances on the inverter can draw your batteries down rather quickly.  120-volt appliances will consume power at 10 times the rate of 12-volt appliances of the same amps rating.  It is unlikely that units not designed for large battery banks will have anyplace they can be installed because they batteries take up a lot of room and add a lot of weight.  If you plan to install a large battery bank be sure the compartment floor is adequately supported to support the weight and that it is properly ventilated.  Never install lead acid batteries near any kind of device that may provide a source of ignition for the off-gassing that occurs during charging.  Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging and it is VERY volatile!  The infamous Hindenberg airship that exploded in New Jersey in 1937 was filled with hydrogen, which is why it produced such a spectacular fire and explosion!  BTW, the flames from hydrogen are generally invisible.  Flames from gasoline are usually yellow or orange and natural gas and propane typically produce blue flames.

Proper maintenance is essential for good performance and long life for all batteries.  Some components of proper maintenance include avoiding excessive discharge, correct charging, maintaining tight, clean connections, and maintaining proper electrolyte levels as necessary.  Try not to let your batteries be drawn down until they are "dead" before recharging them, then use the right charging system to restore them to full charge as soon as possible.  Frequently check all battery connections to make sure they are tight and are not becoming corroded.  The terminals that connect the large battery cables to the battery posts are especially susceptible to corrosion and when they get corroded should be removed and cleaned.   The electrolyte levels in all but maintenance free batteries should be checked frequently and kept at about 1/2" above the plates.  A battery filler comes in handy for topping off your batteries.  You can buy them at auto  parts stores.   Or you can use a turkey baster.   Always try to use distilled water to fill batteries so you don't introduce mineral or chemical contaminants that often occur in normal tap water.  However, if you're boondocking when you discover your batteries are low using ordinary tap water would be better than leaving them low.  Filtered water would be preferable to unfiltered water.  You want it to be as contaminant-free as possible.

One sure sign that your battery capacity is insufficient, is when the furnace fan continues to run after the burner has shut off.   That can also happen if you run out or propane, so be sure to check both battery and propane gauges before deciding what to do.  You may wake up cold in the middle of the night and find the furnace blowing cold air.  It is ironic that when the batteries get too low, the circuitry that shuts off the fan fails and the fan continues to run, further depleting the batteries.  If this happens with an old battery it may just mean it is time to replace it.  But if it happens with fairly new batteries or happens often, you probably need to increase your reserve capacity by installing a larger battery, multiple batteries, or converting to 6-volt golf cart batteries.  Of course, make sure you have been keeping your batteries properly charged before running off and blowing a lot of money on new batteries.  If you try to run your furnace for several days and nights without charging your batteries, you can pretty much count on it blowing cold air sooner or later.  If you don't run your generator enough each day or your solar system doesn't get enough exposure (shade or clouds for instance), your batteries are going to suffer.  You can check the state of charge using a voltmeter if your RV doesn't have a battery meter.   A fully charged 12-volt battery should normally read about 12.7 volts.  Be sure to test it without any charging voltage.  Charging voltage is often around 14.2 volts; "float" or maintenance charge should be about 13.8 volts.  Higher voltages will overheat the battery.  I once had a charger board in a converter that went bad and was putting out 18 volts.  It "fried" batteries like crazy!  I had to add water to my coach batteries a couple of times a week until I found out what was causing the electrolyte to boil away.

Here is a table of voltages and what they mean:

     12.7 = fully charged
     12.5 = 85% charged
     12.4 = 65%
     12.3 = 50%
     12.2 = 35%
     12.1 = drained


Battery indicators on the monitor panel don't usually give actual volts, but are calibrated to reflect approximate percentages, usually indicating 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full.  Checking the actual voltage at the batteries will give you a more accurate reading.  For best performance and longer battery life, avoid letting batteries get below 50% charge (12.3 volts) before recharging.  Note that even "dead" batteries should still show about 12 volts.  While that isn't enough to run lights, motors, or appliances, it may be enough to make a big enough spark or heating 0000 steel wool for lighting a fire in survival situation.

Charging your batteries.   The alternator on motorhomes is usually wired to both the starting and coach batteries so it charges them all whenever the engine is running.  It should be connected through a battery isolator that prevents drawing down the starting battery while using lights and appliances in the coach.  A charging circuit can be wired from the alternator through the trailer connector to charge trailer batteries.  If your vehicle and/or trailer doesn't have this circuit it can usually be added at a nominal cost.  Be sure to include a battery isolator so using power in your trailer in camp doesn't run down your starting battery and leave you stranded or disconnect the trailer from the vehicle in camp.  There are two types of battery isolators:  solenoids and diode-based models.  Soleniods are usually less expensive and may have a shorter lifespan than diode models.  In either case they allow current to flow to charge both battery banks but keep a draw on the coach battery from running down the starting battery.  There is often much discussion among RVers about whether charging batteries with the vehicle alternator or the on board generator is better.  If you need a quick charge, using the vehicle alternator is probably your best bet and the engine at idle will most likely not consume much more fuel than the generator.  In camp, coach batteries are usually charged by the the converter whenever you run the generator.   If you use the generator enough, like to run the A/C for several hours on hot days, it will usually be enough, but in cooler weather you may have to schedule some generator time just to keep your batteries charged.   But be aware that the battery charging capabilities of most converters is limited.  Newer "smart" multi-stage converters like Progressive Dynamics "Intelli-power",  have more efficient battery charging systems.  Multi-stage chargers usually sense the battery condition and select one of four modes as necessary to maintain batteries in optimal condition.  The four modes are and their functions are:

     Boost Mode - (14.4 volts) to rapidly bring the battery up to 90% of full Charge.
     Normal Mode - (13.6 volts) to safely complete or maintain the charge.
     Storage Mode - (13.2 volts) to maintain charge with minimal gassing or water loss during                                    periods of  non-use.
     Desulfation Mode - (13.2 volts with 15 minute 14.4 volt burst every 21 hours)

Compare that with the charging circuits on older converters that typically supply a constant voltage of 13.6 volts.  Some may sense when the battery is fully charged and reduce the amperage to maintain a "trickle charge".  The different voltages are required to provide proper charging and maintenance.  Boost mode helps recharge batteries quickly; Normal Mode tops off  and maintains the charge; Storage mode provides a "trickle charge" to compensate for normal voltage drop of batteries that are not in use; Desulfation mode provides a high boost during storage to "burn off" sulfation of the lead plates to maintain electro-chemical efficiency. 

 Lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging.  Hydrogen gas is highly volatile.  It was the gas that exploded in the famous Hindenberg disaster.  Batteries should always be installed outside of the living area in a well ventilated compartment.  Trailer batteries are often installed on the tongue, for excellent ventilation and easy access for maintenance.

An easy and fairly inexpensive alternative to smart converters is to install an automatic automotive battery charger connected to the coach batteries and plugged in so that it charges them whenever there is 120-volt power -- from shore power or from the generator.  When using an external battery charger it is best to disconnect or disable the charger in the converter.  Another way to "quick charge" your RV batteries is to run the vehicle engine.  Estimates show it will use only slightly more gas than running the generator since the alternator is far more efficient at charging the batteries than converters and auxiliary battery chargers.  Of course, solar panels are also a good way to keep your batteries charged -- if you have a large enough array and sufficient sunlight.  You can buy little inexpensive panels that are plug into your cigarette lighter socket and are intended to be placed on the dashboard to provide a small "trickle charge" for helping keep batteries charged in storage.  These will not recharge batteries enough when they are being used when off grid.  Large solar panels are mounted on the RV roof and require a controller to provide proper voltage.  Of course solar panels work best in direct sunlight, so don't expect them to quick charge your batteries if you're parked in the shade.

Maintenance chargers can be used to maintain batteries while in storage.   Often referred to as "trickle chargers" because of the low (1-2 amp) charging current, they are pretty good for keeping batteries charged but not for recharging depleted batteries. If you have a good multi-stage charger connected to your house batteries, you shouldn't need a maintenance charger there, but you may still need one to maintain your starting battery.  The default charging voltage from the converter will usually override charging from automatic or maintenance converters so you may have to disable the converter in order to get the most from your chargers.  Those little solar battery charges that plug into the cigarette lighter are "trickle chargers".  By the way, make sure the lighter is live when the key is off or they won't do anything!

Converters and Inverters.  Converters convert 120 volt AC power to 12 volt DC power to run lights and 12 volt accessories from shore or generator power.  Converters usually include a charging circuit to charge your batteries whenever you have 120 volt power available to the converter.  Inverters change 12 volt DC power into 120 volt AC power so you can run normal household appliances using your RV batteries.  If you want to run any large appliances you will need a very powerful inverter and a large battery bank to support it.

Batteries in storage will lose about 1% of their charge per month, even if they are disconnected.  Because of the parasitic draw of some RV appliances and accessories,  they can be be drawn down a lot faster if not disconnected.  Some RVs come with battery disconnects.  They can be fairly easily and inexpensively added if necessary.  If you don't have a battery tender connected to maintain your batteries while your RV is in storage it is a good idea to disconnect them to avoid any parasitic draw down.  A solar charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter can help keep batteries charged in storage.

Charge!

End of Season

Is there EVER an end to the camping season?  Well, yes and no.  It is true that summer is the most popular season for camping, but you can camp in spring, fall, and even winter, when base camps support winter sports such as cross country skiing, snowmobiling, hunting, and ice fishing.

It is the middle of September and the "normal" camping season is winding down.  With the kids back in school, you've probably already done your "last harrah" family outing before summer ended -- or just maybe you still have time for one more!  It is likely that end of season sales on camping equipment already started back in July or August, but there might still be some bargains to be found.  It won't  hurt to check around at your favorite retailers.  You might find exceptionally good deals on anything that might still be left since they need to move it out quickly to make room for winter stock.  Always look for seasonal sales and "manger specials" at retail stores to get the best deals.  You may also see camping stuff showing up in garage sales and online as people wrap up their current seasons and dispose of unwanted gear before they have to find a place to store it.

Its just about time to be thinking about winter storage.  Tent campers probably already have their stuff safely tucked away after the last trip but it might be worth pulling it out and doing a quick inventory to make sure everything is clean and in good repair and properly stored.  Leaving things dirty while in storage for long periods invites additional damage.  If tents, canopies, or sleeping bags aren't thoroughly dry when put into storage they can be ruined by the time you get them out again.  Any cooking residue left on stoves, grills, pots and pans, and utensils will attract bugs, rodents, and bacteria that will make a real mess to be dealt with next spring.  Make sure you know where everything is so you don't have to go on a major hunt for it next season.  Now is also a good time to inventory your gear and supplies and make a list of any needed repairs, replacements, or additions.  That way you can spread the cost out over the winter months when there is no urgency.

You may not need or want to put everything in storage just yet, but it is still a good time to start thinking about it and planning for it so that when the times does come, you'll be ready.  For example, if you need to winterize the fresh water system on your RV you can start looking for good prices on Marine/RV antifreeze (the pink stuff) and stock up on it even if freezing weather is still weeks or months away.  When you winterize your RV, don't forget to drain the hot water heater.  It will save a lot of antifreeze if you have a bypass system to bypass the hot water heater when filling the water lines with antifreeze.  If your RV doesn't have one, you can purchase one for about $20 and can probably install it yourself.  Given  that the 6 gallons of antifreeze can cost $30, a bypass kit pays for itself right away, saving you both time and money.  It will also save time time when you de-winterize your rig next spring.

RVs and OHVs that won't be used for several months should be winterized and properly stored.  The degree of winterization required will depend on the climate where the vehicles are stored.   Some things, like checking fluid levels and makings sure cabinets are free from spills that would attract pets should be done not matter what kind of climate you live in but full winterization to prevent freeze damage is required if you live where you get freezing overnight temperatures.  Coolant should be checked to verify it contains enough antifreeze to protect the engines in RVs, OHVs, adn tow vehicles against expected low temperatures.  Coach water systems MUST be freeze protected in cold climates.  Any provisions that may be damaged by freezing should be removed and stored in a warm place.  Holding tanks on RVs should be dumped and thoroughly flushed before storage so foul odors don't permeate the furnishings during storage.  Then add RV antifreeze to the holding tanks to protect the dump valves.  Batteries should be kept on a maintenance charger or removed and stored where they won't freeze.  If possible, store RVs and OHVs in a garage or shed so they'll be out of the winter weather.  Lacking a suitable structure, consider purchasing an RV cover.  They only cost a few hundred dollars and are likely to pay for themselves in just a single season by protecting paint, decals, curtains, and exposed upholstery.  You may see people using ordinary cheap tarps to cover their RVs.  While this does block sunlight and usually protects against precipitation, they also trap moisture and are sometimes abrasive enough to damage the finish.  RV covers are made of  soft breathable fabrics that avoid these problems and are usually designed so they fit better.  Because they are designed to fit they are usually easier to install and their built-in anchor systems keep them in place during windy weather better than attaching a tarp with ropes or bungee cords.  By the way, if you MUST use a tarp, one simple way of anchoring it without damaging the vehicle is to fill empty bleach jugs with water (or, even better, old antifreeze) and hang them from the grommets on the tarp.  Be careful if you just fill them with water if you expect or experience freezing temperatures.   In a pinch  you can lower the freeze point a few degrees by adding salt to the water.  Plain water freezes at 32° F.   Salt water, fully saturated with salt (about 23% salt by weight) freezes at  -21° F.  If the jugs freeze they may crack and then the water will all leak out and your weights will become useless.  You may come out to find your tarp blown off or blown away.  Any crumbs or spills in and around your RV should be thoroughly cleaned up to avoid attracting pests.  You might even want to place some mouse bait in strategic locations to discourage the nasty little critters from taking up residence in your mobile residence.  I prefer using bait over traps.  Products like D-con not only kill rodents, but also contain a desiccant that causes their bodies to dry out instead of decaying and creating bad odors if they die inside the walls.  You may still have to dispose of their little mummified remains that are likely to be hiding beneath the bottom drawers or other out of the way places.

You will need to protect OHVs that have liquid cooled engines with the proper antifreeze.  It is also a good idea to drain the fuel tanks and the fuel lines and carburetors before storage.  Start the engine, turn off the gas, and let it run out of fuel so there won't be old fuel turning to varnish in th e carbuertor.  If, for any reason, you choose to leave fuel in the tank, treat it with a fuel additive like Sta-bil to minimize deterioration during storage. These simple steps of prevention can avoid costly service to get your machine running again next spring.  I've found it typically costs $80-$100 to get the gunk cleaned out of the fuel system.  So much better to drain the tank and run all the fuel out of the carburetor before you put your OHV into storage.  A light coat of oil on drive chains and other ferrous metal parts will prevent rust.

Fuel systems on RVs and OHVs that will not be used for several months should be drained or treated with a fuel additive such as Sta-bil.  You can usually drain the fuel tanks on OHVs pretty easily, then run the engine until all the fuel remaining in the lines and carburetor is used up.  Draining the large fuel tanks on other motor vehicles usually isn't practical.  Add enough Sta-bil for the tank capacity and top off the tank before storage.  A full tank will collect less moisture and condensation than an empty one, reducing the chance of water in the fuel line.

Propane powered camping stoves and lanterns usually only need to be cleaned before storage --  once the fuel canister has been removed.  Gasoline should be drained or treated with Sta-bil just like an OHV or vehicle engine.  Battery powered lanterns with removable batteries should have the batteries removed.  Rechargeable lanterns should be plugged in periodically to keep the batteries charged.   A convenient trick to to plug them into a timer so they aren't always being charged.  Overcharging can sometimes damage the batteries.

Proper storage will avoid unnecessary damage during the off season and make getting ready for your first out next season a lot easier and less expensive!

Tent campers will also need to store their tents and other equipment.  Tents and sleeping bags should be clean and dry before being stored.  Sleeping bags should not be rolled tightly.  Hang them so they can air out an restore loft if you can.  If not, pack them loosely in "stuff sacks".  Try to repair any damage before you put things into storage.  Make sure your pots, pans, utensils, dinnerware, and silverware are clean.  Remove perishable food and medical items before storage and, if your stuff will be stored will be stored where it could freeze, remove any liquids that might freeze.  Clean all your tools and coat metal surfaces with a light coating of oil to prevent rust.  This is also a good time to check for damage and make a list of those that need repair or replacement.   Drain fuel from gasoline stoves and lanterns.  Remove batteries from battery powered gadgets and store the batteries indoors.  You might want to include mouse bait near where  you store your stuff to minimize the chance of rodents infesting things.

After you've got all your gear and equipment taken care of, you can turn your attention to yourself.  You'll probably be facing an extended vacation from your favorite outdoor activities, especially if you live in northern climates with four real seasons.  Some people have enough winter activities that they don't miss camping, but many people will be getting a serious case of cabin fever long before Spring arrives and you can once again enjoy  your outings.  There are a number of fun and productive things you can do during the off season.  I find it is a good time to inventory, repair, clean, and detail my RV, camping and OHV equipment.  It may a good time for installing upgrades to your equipment.  You can also organize your photos and notes from last season's outings and begin making plans for next year.  Plan a regular exercise program to help stave off holiday weight gain and stay in shape so you'll be ready when Spring finally arrives.

And don't forget the end of season sales!  Even though some may have started months ago you may still find good buys on  closeouts of seasonal merchandise.  It is great time to try out new gadgets, replace damaged or outdated gear, or stock up on things you use often.  It might also be a goo time to look for bargains on ebay, craigslist, and at garage sales and thrift stores.

End of season is a good time to review this season's activities.   Remember, enjoy, and perhaps document notable outings.Organize and make notes on the photos you took during your trips.  Review the "to do"lists from each of your recent outings to make sure you've taken care of everything that needed attention.  Perhaps this upcoming "off season" will be a good time to take care of some postponed repairs or upgrades.  Sometimes not taking as many trips will leave a little more in the budget for desirable improvements you wanted to make to your RV, OHV, or camping equipment along with the time to do them.  And that is a fun way to stay connected to your camping needs when the weather doesn't lend itself to your usual activities.

Rest easy!

Camping in Lightning

No one except ardent storm chasers would deliberately go camping in a lightning or thunderstorm.  However, weather being what it is, any of us could get caught in a thunderstorm while camping just about any time.  Even if there are no storms in the regional forecast you might still get thunderstorm and lightning in the mountains.  Many mountains are large enough to create their own micro-climate and very local weather.  I have had my RV caught in a lightning storm.  It doesn't have to mean the end of an outing.  We just need to take appropriate precautions and sit back and enjoy the show!

Lightning can present a marvelous light show, and sometimes scare the heck out of people!  It can be exciting and fun to watch -- as long as it doesn't get too close and if you are in a safe and comfortable place.  I like watching a good lightning show, as long as I'm in a safe place.  I like hearing the thunder roll.  When I was growing up in Idaho, my grandfather said it was the sound of potato wagons rolling by.  Not too threatening.  Being in an RV is generally pretty safe.  Even if lightning should strike your RV or even close to it YOU should be protected by the vehicle structure.  By the way, it is NOT the rubber tires that protect you.  Think about it.  Lightning easily arcs through 10,000-30,000' feet of air.  Do you really think it can't jump the 6" or so through rubber from your steel wheel to the ground?  The lightning WILL make its way to the ground, no matter what.  It is just a matter of the path it chooses.  It is the steel structure around you that protects you when you are in a vehicle.  If lightning does strike the vehicle it travels through the structure instead of through your body.  Of course, you could get zapped and even be injured if you are touching the structure at the time, so avoid touching window and door frames during an electrical storm.  That's also why your mother told you stay off the phone during an electrical storm.  Lightning striking a telephone pole somewhere miles away could send high voltage down the phone line.  Guess that gives cell phones one more advantage, although lightning may strike the cell towers and knock them out it won't travel back through your cell phone.  The other risk to you inside your RV is if you are parked under or near a tall object that may attract lightning and part or all of the object may explode or topple and damage your RV or set it on fire.  If you are camped in the kind of campgrounds most people prefer, with lots of trees, you probably don't have worry too much unless you happen to be parked near the tallest tree or some other high artificial structure like a flag pole, light standard, or antenna .   And although you may be safe inside your RV, it may suffer negative consequences from being struck or nearly struck by lightning.  Sensitive electronics may be damaged or a strike on a distant power pole might send surge of devastating voltage down the line and through your power cable if you're connected to campground power.  A surge protector is good way to protect your RV against this hazard.  They aren't cheap, but they are less expensive than repairing the damage from voltage surges.  Camping World offers a wide variety of surge protectors.  If you get one be sure to get one that corresponds to the power requirements of your RV.  BTW, if  you spend most of your time boondocking instead of connected to campground power, you probably don't need a surge protector since your generator isn't likely to create the kind of surges that can happen on commercial power grids.

Lightning, like any other severe weather, is going to present a bigger problem for tent campers than for RVers.  Your tent simply isn't going to provide you as much protection against any weather as an RV will.  Should lightning strike nearby you could be peppered with shrapnel or flaming debris, neither of which is going to be much deflected by tent fabrics.  Once again, if your tent is set up in a campground with lots of trees about the same height your probability of a near lightning strike will be reduced  However, if you're near a tall tree, light post or radio tower, they could "attract" lightning.  In reality, objects don't attract lightning.  Simply being the tallest object around makes them the location of the shortest distance for the lightning to jump from clouds to ground.  Lightning rods are used to protect structures from lightning strikes.  They reach higher than the structure an are grounded so the charge is conducted directly into the ground without damaging the structure.  The Empire State Building gets hit by lightning about 100 times every year.  So much for "lightning never strikes twice in the same place!".  The hail and heavy rain that often comes with thunderstorms is going to have more impact on tents than RVs.  You might want to seek protection for yourself and your companions under a sturdy rigid canopy or get inside your vehicles during hail and heavy rain.

Lightning can be a definite hazard for hikers, climbers, skiers (yes, lightning does sometimes strike in winter), boaters, and equestrian and OHV riders.   If you happen to get caught on a hill top or out in the open  in a flat area, YOU could very well be the highest object around!  You will usually get some warning of an approaching electrical storm from the sound of thunder.  You can tell how close the lightning is by counting the seconds between when you see the lightning flash and when you hear the thunder.  I was once within about 100' of a lightning strike.  Instead of "thunder" I heard an explosion simultaneous with the lightning.  I thought someone had bombed the computer center where I worked!  When lightning strikes a tree, the rapid vaporization of sap and moisture may cause the tree to literally explode, sending wooden shrapnel and flaming debris in all directions.  To estimate how far away lightning is, count the seconds between the flash and when you hear the thunder and divide by 3 to get the distance in kilometers or by 5 to get the distance in miles.  If it is closer than 25 or 30 seconds, take immediate steps to protect yourself.  Get off that hill top or out of that flat clearing and seek protection in a cluster of trees all about the same height.  If there are no trees around, try to get down into some kind of depression like a sand wash or creek bed.  Lacking any of these, lay down flat on the ground to minimize your height.  Don't stay too close to an OHV as it may become the tallest object around the the most likely target of lightning.  If lightning strikes it, it could send shrapnel or flaming projectiles in your direction if you are too close.  When entering any low lying area during a storm always be aware of and watch out for flash floods.  Avoid contact with water, which can also increase conductivity and the likelihood of becoming the object of a lightning strike. Even if the rain is several miles away, flash floods can sweep down creek beds and washes with amazing speed and devastating, even deadly, force.  When I worked in the construction industry we would shut down outdoor operations whenever lighting was within 2 miles of our work site as a safety precaution.  Out on the flat surface of an ocean or lake just about any boat could easily become the tallest object around and therefore the most likely contact point for lightning.  The tall masts on sailboats are especially susceptible.  Boats can be equipped with systems similar to lightning rods on buildings to conduct any electrical discharge safely to ground bypassing the components and occupants of the vessel.

One way to avoid being subjected to possible lightning strikes is to monitor the weather forecast and stay out of areas where thunderstorms are likely.  Lacking access to weather reports (shame on you!  Portable radios are small and inexpensive so you should always take one with you when camping) keep an eye on the sky.  Learn to discern the types of clouds that are prone to produce lightning and observe from which direction approaching weather comes and watch for early lightning strikes and take cover before it comes anywhere near you.  When observing clouds you will want to look for shape, color, and movement. Massive, dark, roiling clouds are often home to thunderstorms. High altitude clouds, and white, wispy clouds might bring showers but lightning is unlikely.  Here is a link for Predicting the Weather With Clouds.

Lightning isn't usually a direct threat to highway driving, at least not to the occupants inside vehicles.  If the vehicle is struck by lightning it will be conducted around the occupants by the steel body of the vehicle without injuring them as long as they are not touching the body.  The vehicle itself may not fare as well.  Modern, computer-controlled vehicles are likely to suffer severe damage to the electronic components but the electrical systems in older vehicles are not completely immune to lightning damage.  Lightning may pose an indirect threat as well.  A lightning strike may fell trees, street lights, or power poles across the road to block traffic and knock out traffic lights.  The heavy rain that often accompanies electrical storms may make visibility difficult and make roads slick.  Heavy rain or runoff can flood roadways and even a fairly thin layer of water on the pavement can seriously reduce traction.  Wet pavement has a co-efficient of friction about half that of dry pavement.  That means its about twice as likely for you to loose traction and control and will take twice as long to stop.  As water accumulates on the roadway, vehicles traveling at high speeds can begin to "hydroplane", riding on top of the water instead of the tires actually touching the pavement, causing the driver to lose control.  Whenever you are driving in rain, turn off your cruise control. If the cruise control is on and your car begins to hydroplane - when your tires loose contact with the pavement your car will accelerate to a higher rate of speed and when they once again gain traction you take off like an airplane.  Read more at Snopes report on using cruise control in the rain.   Flooded roadways can also conceal dangerous pot holes, washouts, and debris.  If you drive into a low spot, it may even be deep enough to cause your car to temporarily float, reducing traction and steering to zero and you'll go where ever the water chooses to take you.  Submerged debris may damage tires, suspension, and oil pans.  Suddenly submerging a spinning radiator fan in deep water may cause it to break or bend and damage the radiator.  Metal fans are usually pretty sturdy but a lot of modern vehicles have plastic or fiberglass fans that will virtually disintegrate when suddenly striking water.  Water splashing up under the car is sometimes intrusive enough to interrupt power to the ignition system, causing the engine to stall.  If you must drive through deep puddles, drive slowly.

Lightning can strike distant power lines and send a dangerous surge through electric and phone lines.  If you usually camp with electric hookups it is a good idea to equip your RV with a good surge protector to prevent damage from power surges.  They aren't cheap, but they're a lot cheaper than replacing all the damaged wiring and electrical and electronic equipment that will be ruined without them. 

The thunderstorms that create lightning often generate hail as well.   Drops of rain are caught in the updraft, freeze, fall down only to be caught up again and again until they grow to heavy to rise again.  The higher the winds in the updrafts, the larger the hail grows before falling.  Hail the size of peas or smaller is fairly common and usually doesn't cause much damage.  Dime and even nickel sized hail is not unusual.  I once had the aluminum roof of my motorhome pelted by nickle sized hail and afterwards the texture resembled that of a golf ball.  Larger, golf ball, baseball or even softball sized hail has been recorded.  Any ball-sized hail is very likely to do severe damage, especially to windshields and car tops.  Any hail large than peas is likely to be a problem for tents.

There are a lot of myths about lightning.  Some are just that, myths without any real merit, but some have an element of truth behind them.

Lightning doesn't strike twice in the same place.  FALSE!  This a a common misconception, probably based on the fact that a lightning strike often damages what it hits so that it is no longer there or at least no longer the tallest point around.   Thus, if lightning strikes a tall tree, the tree will probably be destroyed so it can't be struck again.  But for more permanent objects, multiple strikes are fairly common.   For example, lightning strikes the Empire State Building in New York City more than 100 times a year.  Why isn't it damaged?  It has a big lightning rod on the top that is wired all the way down through the building into the ground so all the energy is safely conducted into the earth without actually passing through the structure itself -- or the people inside.

Being struck by lightning is always fatal.  FALSE.  In fact, the mortality rate is only 10-20%, although the 80% who survive often suffer long term effects.  It is often thought it causes severe burns, but unless the victim is in contact with something like a metal object that "concentrates" the current, the brief surge doesn't usually last long enough to heat up the tissue.  The damage is usually due to something called "electroporation" in which the high voltage actually makes holes in your cell membranes, seriously damaging nerves and muscles.   Not that the technical difference makes any difference to the victims.  This could lead to pain, weakness, and bruising.  Another common casualty is hearing.  Lightning always produces thunder, although when lighting is close it sounds more like a violent explosion, so at least temporary hearing loss is a fairly common result of being near a lightning strike.  If you are struck by lightning, the thunder will occur simultaneously with the lightning flash, usually with sound something like a couple sticks of dynamite going off next to your ear!

The "30/30 Rule".  Definitely a kernel of truth here.  This rule says if there is less than 30 seconds between when you see the lightning flash and hear the thunder, take cover and then stay inside at least 30 minutes after the storm has passed and you stop hearing thunder.  While some folks may consider this overkill, it is generally good advice.  Better safe than sorry!  When I worked in construction we were required to shut down outdoor activity whenever there was lightning within 2 miles of our construction site.

Someone struck by lightning becomes electrically charged and touching them can injure you.  FALSE.  The actual contact with lightning is very brief, usually only a fraction of a second, and it does not leave behind a residual charge that would be dangerous to rescuers.  The human body is not an effective electrical capacitor (a device that stores electrical energy).  This is significantly different from the circumstances surrounding accidental electrocution from power lines.  The human body does conduct electricity.  A victim may still be in contact with a live line so it is essential that would be rescuers make sure the power is turned off or the wire is no longer in contact with the victim before touching them.  Since lightning strikes are momentary, you would only be in danger if you were touching the victim at the exact time they were struck.  You are in no danger from residual electricity by touching them after the strike is over.

Rubber tires insulate you from being shocked by lightning.  FALSE.  The protection you enjoy being in a vehicle comes from the metal frame around you which conducts any charge past you instead of through your body.  That means when riding on a motorcycle or other rubber-tired vehicle you may still be a target for lightning if you happen to be the tallest point around.  Think about it.  Lightning can arc thousands of feet through the air, why not few inches through rubber tires?

In the United States your odds of being struck by lightning in any given year are about 1 in 500,000 or about 1 in 6250 in an 80-year lifetime.  Your probability of being injured in a vehicle accident on the way to or from your camp site is much higher, in fact about 10-20 in 100,000, about a hundred times more likely than being struck by lightning!

Enjoy the show!

Bicycles for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Bicycles are a good match for both tent and RV camping.  They are light weight and provide economical transportation around camp and for local shopping and sightseeing trips.  They are environmentally friendly and provide good exercise to help you keep in shape.  Bicycle riding is a fun activity for families, couples, and even solo.

Bicycles are not usually associated with boating but you could bring a bicycle along to use on shore at your destination or stops along the way.  The limited space on smaller boats doesn't lend itself very well to transporting bicycles but if you have room on board there is no reason you couldn't take a bicycle with you if you want.

Bicycles can be carried on an RV, a tow vehicle, or the family car.  They are light weight and take up little room.  Some even fold up so they fit in your trunk or an RV outside cabinet.  They require few tools or spare parts.  New bicycles may range in price from under $100 to more than $10,000.  You'll probably want something in between.  Cheap bicycles are, well, cheap.  They are usually not as light and may not function as smoothly or be as durable or reliable as more expensive models.  You can usually get a pretty good bike for a few hundred dollars.  If you have the budget for it, there are amazingly light racing bikes made of leading edge materials that are very durable and fun to ride.   You can usually find good used bikes at thrift stores.  Sometimes they may have already been reconditioned, but the lower cost of ones that haven't been may make them good buys if you have the tools and skills to do the work yourself -- or other resources to get them in shape. 

Choose a bike that fits your needs.  There are several different general types of bicycles, each designed for a different riding style.  Road bikes are the fastest and usually the lightest weight.  They have very thin, high pressure tires and drop down handle bars.  The thin, hard tires minimize rolling resistance and are designed for riding on smooth pavement.  The drop down handlebars make the rider crouch into a low profile that reduces wind drag.  These are the style of bike used in high speed, long distance road races.  The bent over riding position may be uncomfortable to some riders.  A fitness or hybrid bike is much like a road bike but doesn't have the drop down handlebars.  These are very popular bikes for recreational and fitness use.  City bikes have high handlebars and seats designed for upright riding.  Cruisers are designed for short comfortable rides.  They have larger seats, wide handlebars, and fatter tires. They often called "beach cruisers" because of their popularity for riding in the sand.  Mountsain bikes are designed for off road use, with sturdier, softer, knobby tires for traction and rugged frames.  Mountain bikes often include suspension systems to smooth the ride,  Consider the weight when purchasing a bike.  Lighter bikes will take less effort to ride but because of the more costly materials (carbon fiber, titanium, aluminum) will usually be more expensive.  Weight is a more important consideration for racing or for off-road riding than it would be for recreational riding on city streets.  Pretty much any bike that is comfortable for you to ride will be suitable for campgrounds and local excursions.  If you expect to do any trail riding or other off-road riding, consider a mountain bike.  If you find bending over hard on your back you can usually change the handlebar stem to a high rise model that lets you sit more upright.  I did that on my mountain bike and it made riding a LOT more comfortable.  Some bikes have active suspension systems that absorb he bumps in the road or trail.  Of course springs, shock absorbers, and linkages add weight but it is often well worth it for the added comfort.

Bikes come in single or multiple speed versions.  Cruisers are usually single speed bikes with a "coaster brake".   To stop the bike, pedal backwards to engage the brake within the hub of the rear wheel.  Multiple speed bikes use different sized sprockets on the pedals and on the rear wheels to provide a variety of gear ratios for different riding conditions.  Low gear ratios make it easier to pedal up inclines while high gear rations yield faster travel.  Road bikes, mountain bikes, and most fitness bikes are multiple speed bikes.  Multiple speed bikes have hand brakes.  These normally have pads that grip the edge of the wheel but more effective, more durable, and more expensive disc brakes are becoming more popular.  Disc brakes may be a little safer because they are less affected by moisture you might get on the rims riding in wet conditions.

For many years bicycles had no suspension at all.  The wheels were mounted directly to the frame. This made for a rather stiff and bumpy ride.   My mountain bike has no suspension and I can feel every pebble in the pavement when I ride my mountain bike on the road.  Today there are many suspension options.  Front suspension reduces hammering  of your hands, arms and shoulders.  Rear suspension makes the ride softer.  As you would expect, the more sophisticated the suspension, the more costly the bike.  If you're mostly just riding around the campground or over smooth paved roads, suspension will probably not be necessary.  But if you are riding trails or going on long rides or encounter rough roads, suspension will be very desirable.  My first bicycle, many years ago, had a simple front suspension called "knee action".  The front wheel was mounted on a secondary fork that was hinged and had a spring at the top of one set of forks to absorb the bumps.  Modern suspension usually includes shock absorbers that dampen movement and absorb impact as well as springs.  Some bikes may have only front suspension to lessen the stress on your arms and shoulders.  Bikes with rear suspension will be more comfortable to ride, especially on rough roads or off-road trails, but they will be more expensive.  When riding a standard bike without any suspension you will feel every bump, even the very texture of the gravel in asphalt pavement and that can be quite tiring.   You can usually  even feel the difference between riding on the white line at the edge of the road compared to riding on bare asphalt.  Of course suspension components will add a little weight to the bike too.

Motor powered bicycles are available but not commonly seen.  They may be powered by a small gasoline engine or by a battery powered electric motor.  Motor driven cycles minimize the effort needed to get around but also reduce the exercise component of cycling.  Motor driven cycles may be prohibited on many trails.  Motor driven bicycles usually do not meet the standards for motor vehicles and riding them on public thoroughfares may be illegal.

Folding bicycles are designed to fit into the storage compartment of RVs or the trunk of your car. They are usually single speed bikes designed primarily for cruising around the campground or short trips to the store.  I would probably not choose a folding bike because I like to do a lot of exploring, and a multi-speed bike is far better suited for that.  But having a folding bike in the RV for getting around camp or quick trips to a nearby store might be a real advantage.

There are even all wheel drive bicycles.  These have an option to engage a second chain that connects to the front wheel.  As you can imagine, the linkage is somewhat complicated.  Just like 4-wheel drive vehicles, the all wheel drive bicycle is designed for added traction in off-road conditions.  I owned one for a while and found that the added weight and friction of the front wheel drive made it less appealing than I thought it would be.  Perhaps if I'd been riding on muddy or otherwise slippery trails the extra front wheel traction may have been more noticeable and appreciated, but I found my regular mountain bike more comfortable and easier to ride on the hard-packed or sandy desert trails I normally rode.

If you have any problem maintaining balance you might to for a three-wheeled bike.   With full sized wheels and other modern innovations they are a far cry from the tricycle you rode as a toddler.

Bicycle racks are a good way to transport your bicycles.  Or you can transport them in the bed of your pickup or in your trailer.  Bike racks can be found to fit just about any vehicle.  There are some that slide into the trailer hitch receiver, some that clamp over a rear-mounted spare tire, some that attach to the trunk and bumper of a car.  There are roof racks that can carry your bikes on top of your vehicle.  I often see bike racks on top of tent trailers.  I had an 8-bike rack custom built to fit the trailer hitch on my motorhome to accommodate full size bikes for my family of 8.  It carried 4 bikes on each of two levels.  Whenever using any bike rack, be sure to tie down the bikes securely.  You want to restrict movement to avoid chafing that can damage paint or other components as well as make sure they don't fall of en route.  Look for a rack that has padding to protect the parts of the bike that come in contact with the carrier.  You can use ratchet tie down straps to limit movement and ensure your bikes and rack remain secure.

Used bicycles can be a real bargain.  Check your local bike shop, classified ads, garage sales, thrift stores, and online sites like craigslist and ebay.  You will want to acquire some knowledge about brands and prices to ensure you recognize a good deal when  you find one and to avoid getting ripped off.  Thrift stores often offer the best values.  Because of their low overhead they can afford to sell at lower prices and often the bikes have been reconditioned by knowledgeable thrift store employees.  As you would purchasing any used equipment, inspect it carefully to make sure everything is there and in good working order.  A bike that needs minor work can be an excellent value IF you have the resources to make the necessary adjustments and repairs but one that only needs a flat tire fixed won't do you any good if you can't fix it.  I have seen $1200 mountain bikes in good shape sell on craigslist for $200 so with a little patience you may be able to get a really good deal on a used bike.

Like any mechanical device, bicycles require a certain amount of maintenance to keep the working well.    Most maintenance can be done by the owner/rider.  Even changing tires or brake pads (on bikes equipped with hand brakes) is usually within the capabilities of the average owner/rider.  Regular lubrication is necessary to maintain smooth operation and reduce wear.  Lubrication points include axle bearings, crank bearings, and head bearings (where the stem that holds handle bars turn in the frame).  Bikes with suspension will have additional moving parts that need to be regularly inspected and lubricated.  Chain adjustment is also part of routine maintenance.  A loose chain may come off.  A tight chain may cause excessive wear or make shifting difficult.  Multiple speed bikes also required adjustment of the shifter.  This is a little more technical and many owners take their bikes to a professional for a "tuneup" periodically.  Owner riders can usually learn to adjust hand brakes.  Frequently check the wheels for loose spokes.  If you over-tighten spokes you can "tweak" the wheel so it doesn't run true.  Unless you have the skills and proper tools for truing the wheel, you'll need to take it to a bike shop if the wheels begin to wobble or the spokes get excessively loose.  The shifters on multi-speed bikes can be difficult to adjust.  If you have problems you can't solve yourself you may have to take it to a bike shop for a "tune up".  I found them to be surprisingly inexpensive and well worth it.

Always wear protective gear when riding a bicycle.  Many cities and states have laws at least requiring riders under a certain age to wear helmets but it is ALWAYS a good idea to wear a helmet, regardless of your age or local laws and it doesn't matter whether you're riding on the road or off road. Other apparel to make you more comfortable may include riding shorts, which have a padded crotch to reduce irritation from the seat.  Speaking of the seat, if you find the one on your bike isn't comfortable, there are many aftermarket seats to choose from so you can probably find one that fits your body and your riding style better.  Gloves will keep your hands from chafing on the hand grips and will significantly reduce the chance of blisters.  They will also keep your hands warmer in cool weather while light weight gloves usually are still comfortable in hot weather.  Cycling gloves are specially designed for riding comfort.  Some bicycle gloves have open finger tips.  Personally, I prefer full fingered gloves.  They provide more consistent protection.  Heavy work gloves will be cumbersome and could cause blisters.  Off road motorcycle gloves would also be a good option.  Riding jerseys are designed to provide flexible movement and keep you comfortable but many riders wear ordinary T-shirts or polo shirts.  In warm weather you want something that will wick away your sweat.  In cooler weather you may need to add a windbreaker or other cold weather clothing.  Rain gear is essential for comfort in wet weather.   Professional cyclists wear special shoes but I've found light weight running shoes to be very comfortable for my needs and wearing my cowboy boots prevents my pant legs from getting caught in the chain.  Avoid wearing pants with loose legs as they can get caught in the chain.  If you don't wear fitted pants, tie up the leg on the side where the chain is to keep it from getting caught.  When I was a kid we used to use metal spring clamps that fit around our pant legs just above the ankle but I haven't seen them in years.  A large rubber band or a small bungee will do the job.  Wearing gaiters or leggings may also help, weather permitting; they might be uncomfortably hot in warm weather.   Rear view mirrors, either helmet mounted or handlebar mounted, will let you see traffic approaching from behind you and to keep track of other riders when you're out front.

Riding a bicycle requires a fair amount of exertion.  Even on cooler days you're going to lose moisture through sweat and through breathing.  It is essential that you maintain adequate hydration when riding to avoid heat related illness.  A Camelbak style hydration pack is one of the most convenient ways to stay hydrated while riding.  You can sip from the mouthpiece anytime without having to stop your ride.  Most bikes are or can be equipped with brackets or a least a place to mount brackets on the front part of the lower frame to hold a water bottle.  Regardless of the method you use, always carry water and drink frequently to avoid dehydration.  If you're just starting out riding after a sedentary life style, you may want to consult your doctor before you begin to ensure you are fit enough to ride.  You may need to start with an easy regimen and work your way up in order to avoid discomfort and health problems.   

If you are just getting into cycling, it would be a good idea to check with your doctor first to make sure you are physically fit enough to proceed.  Then start out easy and work your way up.  A few days of riding "around the block" before tackling any long rides or steep hills is a good way to build up strength, skill, and stamina.  I like to plan my training rides so that I am going uphill on the way out and can take advantage of downhills to coast a little on the way back.  That being said, it always seems to me that no matter where I ride it is ALWAYS uphill both ways!  I must not notice the downhills on the way out until I have to pedal back up them on the way back.

Bicycling can be a great family activity.  You may be able to spend more quality time and enjoy a closer look as you explore the sights and sounds around you with far greater intensity than you get flying by in an air conditioned vehicle.  With a little planning you can stop along the way for a picnic lunch or pedal to the local burger joint or ice cream parlor for a special treat.  Bicycling allows you to travel farther and faster and easier than walking but still lets you get significant exercise and have full access to the sights and sound.  Plus you have the option to easily alter your course to explore interesting places along the way.

Security may be a concern. Bicycles are very popular and are fairly easy to steal and to sell.  Always lock up your bike when you aren't using it, both in camp and when you stop along your ride.  My youngest son learned this lesson the hard way when his brand new bike was stolen just days after he received it for his birthday.  Ironically it was stolen while he was in the store buying a bike lock!  He came out with a really nice bike lock only find that his bike was gone.  Be sure to record the serial number of your bike if it has one so you can give it to law enforcement if it is stolen.  It is also a good idea to engrave your own ID number somewhere on the frame where it won't be easily seen but can be used to prove it's yours if recovered by law enforcement.

Bicycle safety involves more than wearing a helmet and keeping your balance.  In most jurisdictions, bicycles are bound by the same laws as motor vehicles. although all too often you will see bicyclists disregard stop signs and stop lights and lane usage.   I have seen places were rules for bicycles have been relaxed to allow them to pedal through stop signs and stop lights without stopping, but it seems to me to be a very dangerous practice.   And, yes, you can get a speeding ticket or a ticket for running a stop sign on a bicycle.  Some bicyclists prefer to ride against traffic, but that is usually illegal and is actually quite dangerous.  True, you have a better view of on-coming traffic like walking against traffic, but motorists won't be looking for you to be coming down the wrong lane, which can be disastrous if they're pulling out of a driveway or parking space and watching for traffic coming up from  where motor vehicles would normally be.   Take advantage of bicycle lanes when they exist but be aware that they often end with little or no warning.  When riding on public roads, ride single file and stay near the right hand edge of the pavement.  Riding on sidewalks or in crosswalks is usually prohibited but you will see a lot of riders ignoring that law.  Remember, you are required to obey the same traffic laws on your bicycle as you have to obey driving a motorcycle, car, or RV.  Laws typically require motor vehicles to maintain at least 3 feet between them and bicycles when passing them.  To maintain maximum safety, always ride as close to the side of the road (away from the traffic lanes)  as you safely can.  Always ride single file when there is other traffic on the road.  Some roads have designated bicycle lanes for added safety.  Even when riding in designated bike lanes you should ride as far away from traffic as you can.  Cars near you can't always swing out to give you more space if there is traffic coming the other direction towards them and many drivers may drive closer to bicycles to avoid crossing over double yellow lines to go around them even if there is no traffic coming.  The fines for crossing the double yellow line can be expensive!

Safety is a primary concern when riding a bicycle --enough so that it bears a second mention. You have little protection if you collide with anything -- a car, a tree, another rider, a pedestrian, or even soft ground so you want to avoid dangerous situations.  Even soft grass can be a painful place the land.  In most places, bicycles are required to obey the same laws as motor vehicles.  That means coming to a complete stop at stop signs, signaling your turns, and avoiding impeding traffic.  Some riders like to ride against traffic so they can see cars approaching.  In most places this is illegal as well as unsafe.  I nearly hit a bicyclist riding against traffic on the wrong side of the road as I pulled out from a parking space.  I was legitimately concerned about traffic approaching from the rear and, like most people, never expected a bicycle to be riding the wrong way in the lane I was entering right next to the parked cars, so he nearly ran into the front of my car when I began to pull out.  When riding in a group, ride single file whenever there is traffic present to minimize your impact on traffic and reduce the chances of one of you being struck or forced off the road.  Normally bicyclists don't ride fast enough to exceed posted speed limits,but be aware that you are subject to posted speed limits when riding a bicycle so think about that going down hill.  I've seen bikes easily exceed 50 mph coasting down hill on mountain roads.  While that may be exhilarating, it is also very dangerous.  Stopping will be extremely difficult and even hitting a very small obstacle may be enough to make you crash.  And, at that speed, it won't be a pretty sight!  Even if you believe you have the right of way, competing with large motor vehicles isn't a wise thing to do.  You may be right, but in the end you could be DEAD right!

Bicycling is a great family activity and unless you have physical limitations can be a great way to do some sight seeing and get some exercise.  Bikes let you move faster and easier than walking, but slow enough to enjoy the scenery and you can stop to check things out any time you like.  Add a basket or cargo rack and you can use your bike for quick trips to pick up supplies or to carry your picnic.  In a pinch you might just hang a couple of plastic grocery bags on the handlebars to carry your stuff, but try not to do that because it will affect your ability to steer and control the bike.

Nighttime riding requires some special preparation.  First of all, you will need to make you and your bike visible to other traffic.  Most bikes are equipped with front (white) and rear (red) reflectors but not lights.  You can add a headlight and taillight to help you see where you're going and make your bike even more visible at night.  Most headlight systems use a generator that is driven by one of the tires, but that means you only have light when you are moving.  Battery powered lights solve this problem, but batteries can run down fairly quickly.  The best solution is a hybrid that uses batteries but charges them via a wheel-driven generator when moving.  New LED based lighting reduces power requirements.  I've seen inexpensive "flashers" you can clip to your clothing to make you more noticeable.  Do not wear dark colored clothing when riding at night!  Wear light colored clothing.   For best results, wear something reflective.  If you don't have any reflective bike apparel, a simple safety vest like those used by construction workers and road crews is pretty inexpensive and well worth the investment and they can be folded up  small enough to fit in a bike pack or pocket.  Class III safety vests are designed with extra reflective material for greater nighttime visibility and they aren't much more expensive than Class II  daytime vests.  You can get simple reflective bands that snap around your arm to add a little bit of nighttime safety.  And they are not expensive:  I've even found them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.

If you are really ambitious and in good physical condition, you might even use a bicycle to go camping.   You will need to organize your gear and supplies so you can carry them on your bicycle.  Some of it may go in a back pack, some of it in a rack over the rear fender, or some in saddle bags.  Any way you cut it, you will want to minimize the weight you have to pack around.  Make sure your bike is in good condition, properly lubricated and shifters and brakes properly adjusted.  Always carry plenty of drinking water and have it readily available every time you stop.  Bike water bottles are usually mounted in a rack on the lower bar beneath the crossbar or you can wear a hydration pack.  If you find you just can't get your load down enough to carry you might be able to get a bike trailer (like those used to carry infants) to offload some of your gear.  However, you will still be having to move all the weight and it will take as much energy regardless of whether it is on your bike or behind it.  You will also get a little extra rolling resistance from the two additional tires on the trailer and pulling a trailer will reduce mobility and maneuverability and may limit the trails you can travel.

In addition to being used when camping or RVing, you can go camping and RVing on a bicycle!  For basic camping you may be able to  carry your tent and sleeping bag on a bike rack or on a pack on your back.  If you need or want to carry more gear you may need a little trailer.  There are trailers made for bicycles that can carry toddler and cargo.  There are also some camping trailers built to be towed by bicycles.  They usually include some cargo capacity so you can haul your gear as well as having a place to sleep in out of the weather.  I have even seen so tiny Class C style RVs built onto a bicycle (more like a tricycle, but still with pedal power!) but I, for one, wouldn't want to pedal that up or down any hills!

Pedal power rules!