Solar Panels -- Free Light and Power from the Sun

We all take advantage of free solar lighting every day.  Its called "daylight".  But did you know the whole world runs on solar power one way or another.  Even coal and petroleum originated from solar power millions of years ago.  And even nuclear power comes from the remnants of dead stars!  But with solar panels or solar powered lights and good batteries we can extend free lighting options well after dark.  Many pieces of gear, like lanterns and other lights, are available with their own built in or attached solar panels, eliminating any installation issues.

Solar energy may be free, but the equipment to use it definitely isn't.  Solar lanterns, solar battery chargers, and solar panels for boats and RVs will deliver lots of electrical power for free -- once you've made the initial investment in the technology.  Solar appliances are usually somewhat more expensive to buy than their simple battery powered counterparts, but you'll save money on batteries.  Also, you can recharge solar items anytime there is light so you don't need 12 volt or 120 volt power for recharging.  Most solar powered lights use LEDs which  means they use a lot less energy, making the solar charge last even longer.

Solar powered lanterns are becoming more readily available, more affordable, and more popular with campers.  I often see solar lanterns around $10 each.  Solar power means you don't have to carry messy or volatile, dangerous fuels, pack extra batteries, or run down your vehicle batteries to have adequate lighting in camp.  Solar powered lanterns are especially handy for tent campers who won't have the luxury of 12 volt lighting of RVs but are still useful when camping in an RV.  Solar powered chargers might even be powerful enough to recharge your cell phone or even your laptop. Some solar powered lanterns these days even have built-in USB ports to charge cell phones and other light usage devices.  Solar powered lights are getting more and more affordable.  You can even find them at dollar stores, usually in the form of pathway lights, but sometimes as little camping lanterns.

Solar panels are also becoming more common on RVs, collecting power to charge batteries during the day so you can use your RV lighting at night.  With a large solar panel system, a massive battery bank,and an inverter you may even be able to run many 120 volt appliances without needing to fire up the generator.  RV roofs are usually large enough to provide space for quite a lot of solar energy collecting surface.  Even many boats have enough roof space on the cabin for solar panels -- and they are a lot less weight than a generator!

Solar powered "garden" or walkway lights can be used to mark tent pegs and guy ropes to prevent people from tripping over them in the dark.  I've found small solar walkway lights at my local dollar store, so they don't have to be expensive.  Sometimes you can adapt these small walkway lights for more general purposes like tent lighting.  Remove the ground stake (it usually pulls out easily) and add a bail to hang it with or make a base for the spike on the light from an old coffee can or similar container filled with sand, rice, or beans.

Solar panels and the associated controllers and regulators for powering RV systems are still relatively expensive.  A basic solar system for a boat or RV will likely cost $200-$300 plus installation.  A system capable of routinely running significant 120 volt appliances will be far more expensive -- plus the extra batteries you'll need to store your free solar energy.  An easy and inexpensive, though low power option, is a small solar panel that plugs into a vehicle cigarette lighter.  They're usually around $20-$30.  They are usually about twice the size of  smartphone.  They won't provide enough power to run appliances, but they are usually enough to maintain batteries while the RV is in storage when there is no load on the electrical system.  They may be enough to recharge cell phones and other small battery powered appliances.  They won't be able to keep up with power drain from lights or other 12-volt items in your RV.

Solar controllers may each have their own strengths and weaknesses.  Compare the capabilities of controllers and try to match yours to your particular needs.  The first controller I had with the solar panel on my boat supported keeping the battery charged even when the panel was under a green tarp over the winter.  I upgraded to a newer panel with more features but using the same panel and the same battery and the same tarp my battery went dead in a few months.  Haven't tried switching back yet as the new controller includes USB ports for charging our cell phones and it worked perfectly out on the lake.

Special solar battery chargers can be used to recharge any rechargable batteries.  This is a very versatile option since it can be used to recharge replaceable batteries for lanterns, flashlights, and many other battery powered devices.  For best results use only rechargeable batteries. Ordinary dry cell batteries are not designed to be recharged and attempting to do so may not be successful and may even be dangerous.  Non-rechargeable batteries may swell, leak, or even explode when you try to recharge them.  Fairly inexpensive solar powered chargers are also available to recharge cell phones, iPads, and notebook computers.

Solar powered lanterns are usually a little more costly than battery powered lanterns, but you will probably make up the difference fairly quickly in savings by not having to buy batteries again and again.  Rechargeable lanterns don't need new batteries regularly but they do need an outside source of power (12 volt or 120 volt) for periodic recharging.   With solar lights you will need to remember to put them out in direct light for a few hours every day to keep them charged.  Leaving them your tent or in a cabinet or closet in your RV will be very disappointing.  Sometimes the light inside a tent or vehicle is sufficient, but for faster and more complete charging, expose the solar panel to direct sunlight for several hours every day whenever possible.  I have found solar powered camping lanterns for as little as $10 and even bought a couple of very small solar lanterns at Dollar Tree a while back.  Some solar lanterns now include USB ports so you an use them to charge your cell phone too.

Because LEDs are far more efficient than incandescent bulbs, solar lights usually use LEDs.  Incandescent bulbs have wattage ratings based on the resistance of the filament, which in turn determines how much light (and heat) they will produce.  A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60 watt bulb.  Higher output for LED applications is usually created by using multiple LEDs, so a 17 LED lantern will be brighter than a 9 LED light.  I have a 17 LED battery powered lantern it the shape of an old school kerosene lantern that provides pretty good general illumination for camping and for power outages at home.  Unfortunately, it is not solar powered.  It runs on 3 "D" cell batteries. The LEDs  are so energy efficient that I once left the lantern on over night and it didn't run down the batteries.  On the other hand, a guest once left a single incandescent 12-volt light on in the bathroom of my motorhome and the house batteries (two deep cycle 12-volt batteries) were completely drained in just an afternoon.  Incandescent flashlights and lanterns that run on dry cell batteries will run the batteries down even faster.  It makes sense.  Think about it.  An incandescent bulb is basically a dead short between the positive and negative poles of your battery.  It is resistance creates light by super-heating the filament.

Keep your eye open for sales on solar lights.   That is one way to help keep the cost down.  I've often seen solar walkway lights in my local dollar store.  These are perfect for marking tent pegs so you don't trip over them and with a little creative modification you can usually adapt them for more general use.  One simple adaptation is to make a holder for them using an old coffee can or similar sized container.  Make a hole in the top the size of the stake for the light, then fill the container with enough sand or other heavy material to hold the light securely.  Another option is removing the pegs or stakes and fashioning some kind of hook or bail to hang the lights.  I picked up a couple of small solar/LED lanterns at Family Dollar for $2 each.  They are just the right size for tent lights -- about 4" tall a 3" in diameter.

Remember to put your solar lights and other solar appliances out in the direct sun to keep them charged.  Some may get a little energy from artificial light sources, but for maximum benefit, put them in direct sunlight. A solar powered tent light is an ideal source of safe and economical illumination, but not if you leave it in the tent all the time!

Another handy solar application is a fan to cool the refrigerator coils.   It is really nice to not have to worry about running the batteries down running the fan all the time.  Since things generally cool off at night you don't have as much need of the fan when there is no sun to power it.  Solar fridge fans come an a variety of sizes and prices.  The larger, more expensive models cool better, but even a small fan improves air movement over the coils and helps to some extent.  Basically, the more air you can move, the better it will cool the fridge.  The most convenient ones I've seen have the fan and solar panel built into a replacement refrigerator roof  vent making installation a snap.

Solar panels are becoming popular options for boondocking.   About the only deterrent to using them is the rather high acquisition cost.  A solar system sufficient to maintain RV batteries will set you back several hundred dollars, but once you have it, you get free, quiet energy from the sun to run your RV electrical appliances.  Tie solar panels to a large battery bank and a high powered inverter and you can almost get by without running your on board generator.  The size of solar panels makes them less appealing for tent camping but if you have the room to transport them you could make them work.

Solar panels are a particularly good fit for sailboats, allowing you to charge your batteries without the need for a generator, running the auxiliary engine, or connecting to shore power.  Panels may be permanently mounted or installed on movable brackets so you can change alignment as needed to keep them aimed at the sun and move them out of the shadows of the sails.  I used 45-wall panel on a fixed mount on the forward slope of the cabin on our sailboat and it generally got enough sun to keep the Group 24 12-volt marine deep cycle battery charged.

If you like to park in the shade, you won't get full capacity out of your solar panels.  They work best in full sun and when oriented so they face the sun directly at right angles.  Properly installed solar panels should be adjustable so you can face them directly toward the sun regardless of vehicle position.  Portable solar panels allow you to put them just about anywhere and adjust the alignment as needed throughout the day.  I was, however, surprised that my solar panels still working under the green farm tarp I put over my boat in the winter.

Light up for free!

Recycling While Camping

Recycling could mean riding your bicycle or dirt bikte on the same trail again and again.  But what normally comes to mind is re-processing refuse into productive avenues.

Recycling is gaining more and more attention.  While collecting recyclables when we are camping is sometimes inconvenient, camping provides many opportunities for us to recycle goods and materials from home that would otherwise end up in land fills.  What better way to recycle kitchen utensils, tools, linens, clothes, etc. than to put them in your camping kit!  Although the current recycling trend is often seen as the domain of environmentalists, the idea has actually been around a long time.  Growing up in a rural environment, we re-used almost everything.  My dad built our first house from lumber, bricks, and stones salvaged from an old house he bought to tear down for the materials.   I like the old saying:  "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."  It is a much wiser and more efficient way of living than our current mostly disposable lifestyle.  In my mind way too many current consumer products are designed to be thrown away rather than repaired.

Think recycling is something new?  I don't think so.  As mentioned above, here is an old adage "use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without" I learned from my grandparents.  That is a really good concept to apply when camping, especially when boondocking.  When my dad built our first house (in the country) he bought an old house in town that was being torn down and dismantled it.  We salvaged wood and bricks and stone window sills and some of the fixtures.  The entire structure of our house was built from recycled lumber and the chimney and patio from used brick.  We had an antique bathtub salvaged from that same house before they became fashionable.

Buying a pre-owned RV or other used camping equipment is in itself a productive way of recycling.  It is a good way to both save money and "give stuff a second chance", as the billboards for some popular thrift stores say.  RVs and camping gear often get very little use so pre-owned equipment can be a excellent bargain.  I've even found brand new camping equipment in thrift stores and garage sales.  Owners either bought stuff or received gifts that they never got around to using.  I find garage sales a good place to shop for gadgets I want to try out so I don't invest a lot of money at full price in case they don't work out.  Even when you buy something new, it is only new the first time you use it, so why pay extra for that one first use?

You can recycle many household items as camping items instead of throwing them away when you upgrade.  The old 2-slice toaster that your family has outgrown is a handy addition to your RV.  It may take longer to make enough toast for everyone, but its small footprint and lower power consumption may be appropriate for camping.  You can create your own fire starters from old egg cartons, sawdust, and melted down candle stubs.  If you happen to enjoy a rural lifestyle where you have large animals to feed, you might recycle the twine from hay bales for camp use.  Old pots and pans and other kitchen utensils often find new life in your camp set, adding convenience to your camping at no cost.  Towels, sheets, blankets and other linens that may no longer be suitable for entertaining company at home are perfectly suited to enhancing your camping experience without the worry of damaging costly items.  Likewise, some old clothing is handy to have in your RV or camp kit.  It may not be as attractive or fashionable as you might like, but having clean, dry clothing has saved or added comfort to many an outing.  Organizing extra tools into a portable tool box can provide an attractive option to getting stranded by a motorhome, tow vehicle, or OHV breakdown and having to call for expensive towing or road service.

The common understanding of most recycling applies mostly to what would otherwise end up in the trash:  primarily disposable containers.

Recycling of aluminum cans is one of the most common and most popular of recycling programs.  Of course one thing that contributes a lot to that is reclaiming the 10 cent deposit we pay on every can.   Since we often enjoy a lot of cold beverages in cans when we are camping we often accumulate a lot of empty cans.  Crushing them is one way to reduce the volume for transport but not all recycling places accept crushed cans, so don't crush yours unless you plan to take them where the cans are weighed and it doesn't matter if they are crushed or not.  Crushing cans is easy.  There are can crushers available but most people just stomp on them.  Some guys think it is macho to smash them against their foreheads, but I certainly don't recommend it!

These days recyclables must often be sorted by type.  That means you need separate bags for things like glass, cans, and recyclable plastic.  To add to the complexity, not all plastic bottles are recyclable.

Traditional recycling in camp or on the road will take some extra effort.  You'll probably need to separate your recyclables and commit some space to storing and transporting them and space is often a a premium.  It doesn't take a lot of effort or consume a lot of weight and space to stomp down your aluminum cans and bring them home and you can usually get paid a little bit for them.  Plastic and glass containers are usually somewhat more difficult to manage and usually don't produce payments.  You can recycle newspapers and paper towels by using them to wipe your plates before doing the the dishes, then using the crumpled papers to help start your campfire or charcoal BBQ.  Some plastics can be disposed of in the campfire, but always avoid breathing the fumes.  And remove the cap from bottles or they could heat up and explode, sending hot embers all over and perhaps into your hair or lap! 

Hauling stuff home to be recycled can be messy and inconvenient but don't feel too bad about disposing of it in proper trash containers in camp since doing so might lighten your load and reduce fuel consumption on the way home.  Just don't leave it lying around to compromise the environment.  Besides that, about the only things being recycled that really make environmental and economic sense are lead acid batteries (car batteries) and aluminum cans.  The benefits of recycling paper, glass, and plastic are debatable.   At least one expert on recycling that I read recently suggested the only things that make good sense to recycle are those for which you get paid.  If there isn't enough money in recycling something to pay an incentive, the process is probably not economically nor environmentally sound.  In some cases recycling actually takes more energy and costs more and leaves a larger "carbon footprint" than using raw materials!  Reading that made me feel a little better about tossing trash that was otherwise a nuisance to handle for recycling.  He cited lead acid batteries and aluminum cans as examples of good things to recycle.  Plastic and even glass bottles and newspapers didn't make his cut.  I use old newspapers to start fires and to clean windshields and BBQ grills.

Is recycling worth the effort?  There are differences of opinion, even among recycling experts.  I once read an article from an recycling expert from UCLA who conclude that only those items that you get paid for, like lead batteries and aluminum cans, are worth recycling.  And it goes way beyond your personal renumeration.  If an item isn't worth a manufacturer paying for, it typically isn't worth the time, effort, and the cost of collection and processing both in economic and environmental terms.  Another article I recently read from the University of New Hampshire, claims that in many cases, recycling actually wastes more resources than it saves.  Given all the various opinions, I have personally agree with the UCLA expert:  if industry is willing to pay for it, it is worth recycling.

Recycling goods and materials from home is a good way to minimize your camping costs and reduce your environmental impact at the same time.  Recycling in camp helps keep our camping and staging areas clean.  If choose not to recycle, make sure you dispose of all containers safely.  "Pack it in, pack it out"!

Bungie Cords

Bungie cords are very handy and have many uses when camping and boating.  You'll find dozens of uses for them in your RV, toy hauler, boat, and around camp.  You can wrap them around sleeping bags, tents, tarps, and awnings to keep them under control when they're rolled up.  You use them to secure items inside your RV or trailer so they don't bounce around on the road.  You can even use them as belts or suspenders.  You can use them for sail ties on sailboats and to secure loose gear from bouncing around on any boat.

                                                           

Finding a good place to anchor bungee cords in a motorhome or trailer is often difficult.  Sometimes you can use existing brackets for curtains or shades, but as often as not, those brackets aren't designed for the loads you'll be putting on them and you may break or bend them, or pull them out of the wall.  Ordinary cup hooks can be used where you have solid place to screw them in but I prefer to use marine eye straps or rope guides.  They fasten on with two screws and have no open ends sticking out to catch things on.  They're more expensive than cup hooks, but they are also sturdier, more secure, and easier to use.  You can get cup hooks at any hardware store.  You may have to go to a marine supply store for eye straps/rope guides or order them online.  I've used both plastic and stainless steel versions and both provided satisfactory service in my RVs.

                                                        

Have a cabinet that keeps coming open on the road?  You may be able to secure it with a bungie cord.  Sure, it takes a little extra time every time you need into the cabinet, but compared to the time it takes to gather up all the stuff that might fall out on the road and clean up the spills, its nothing.  Just wrap a bungee around 2 or more cabinet door handles to keep them closed.

Bungie cords come in many sizes.  Most bungie cords are about 3/8" in diameter and typical lengths are 6", 12", 18", 24" and 36".  Mini bungies are usually bout 1/8" in diameter and about 4"-6" long.   If you need a different length you can usually cut a bungee down to the size you need, reinstall the hook, then tie a new knot in the end.  Some bigger bungies, like those used for securing loads on pick up trucks, are about 1/2' in diameter and several feet long.  They all have hooks on both ends and may come with either plastic or wire hooks.  I have tried both plastic hooks and wire hooks and I like the wire hooks better.  I find the plastic ones are often too large and clumsy to be easy to use. I prefer the wire hooks.  They fit in more places and I've found them to be more durable than the plastic ones.   Wire hooks will sometimes bend under stress, but plastic hooks may break.

Bungie cords usually last a fairly  long time but if you stretch them very tight and leave them that way for a while, they will stretch out and lose their usefulness.  They can be used outdoors, but extended exposure to sun and weather will also significantly shorten their life.

Bungie cords are really helpful for anchoring tarps and awnings.  I use them to secure the lower edge of awning extensions on my RV awning.  The top of the extension slides into the accessory rail on the awning or attaches to the awning roller with special hangers and "S" hooks.  Using long bungies from the bottom edge to tent pegs driven into the ground keeps the extension taught and where I want it instead of flapping in the breeze.  If you're making your own awning from tarps, bungies are the fastest and easiest way to anchor them.    Pulling a tarp taught with rope or twine works too, but bungies provide some shock absorbing capability that keeps the tarp taught without over-stressing it and pulling out the grommets.  Rubber tie down straps serve a similar function for securing a tarp over load on a vehicle.  They are usually about 1" wide and 1/4" thick with "S" shaped metal hooks on both ends.  They are usually stiffer than bungie cords, making them more difficult to use but more resistant to stretching out and getting loose.

Bungies are good for securing light loads on your OHV.   I keep one or two in my fanny pack or fender bag with my tools in case I need to tie something down out on the trail.

You can adapt bungie cords to replace a lost or broken belt or fashion suspenders to hold your pants up.  Perhaps not the most fashionable of accessories, but very functional.  You might use bungies as a sling for a broken arm or to secure bandages.  In a dire emergency, a bungee might be used as a tourniquet.  Be aware that current medical thinking only recommends the use of a tourniquet in extreme situations where there is no other way to control life-threatening bleeding.  Where you once were told to release the tourniquet every 15-20 minutes they now say to leave it.  Releasing it may allow contaminated blood from the isolated limb back into the system and cause severe problems.   Always label a tourniquet with the date and time it was applied.

In summary, bungie cords are one of the most versatile and useful accessories you can add to your camp kit.   I try to keep a good supply on hand -- in my motorcycle trailer, in my RV, and in my tent camping stuff.  You can find them at department, hardware, and camping stores.  Sometimes I find packages of them at my local dollar store and it is a really good  $1.00 investment.  Each packages usually contains 2 each of 3 different lengths.  I always like to stock up and buy several packages when I find them there.  There is always someplace to use a bungie cord.  I have a dedicated rack in my enclosed motorcycle trailer where I hang a bunch of bungee cords and keep an ammo can filled with bungies in my motorhome.

Bungie cords can be used for sail ties on a sail boat, but I strongly suggest using true sail tires made of nylon straps.  The hooks on bungie cords can make holes in the sail and become rather nasty instruments of pain if they strike your body when they go flying around as they often do when released.  One of the advantages for using bungie cords to secure loose items is that they will stretch and can absorb some movement without letting objects go.

Tie one on!

Preparing Meals In Camp

Meal preparation in camp should always be at least easy and convenient.  Ideally it should be downright fun!  You definitely don't want meal preparation to be time consuming or onerous and interfere with your planned activities.  If we do it right, meal preparation can and should be fun.

Preparing meals in camp, whether you're camping in a tent or on a boat or in an RV, will be a little different than your normal routine at home.  When cooking in an RV you usually have a range that is similar to the one at home -- but somewhat smaller.  Cooking on a boat you may have to deal with having your galley rocking.  When tent camping, you'll likely be cooking on a Coleman stove or campfire, unless you opt for one of the newer portable ranges that gives you  stove resources similar to those you would have in in RV.  But even then, or when cooking in an RV, the differences in size and performance will require some adjustments to your normal procedure.  No matter what you're cooking on, it is going to be different than your gas or electric range and oven at home.

Camp cooking should be fun!  After all, we go camping for fun, so cooking should be fun too and usually it is.  One of the things that will make it more fun, especially for the primary cook, is for everyone to participate.  Plan your meals with that in mind so you have appropriate and productive things for everyone to do.  Plan simple meals that don't require a lot of elaborate preparation or cleanup.  Take advantage of outdoor cooking opportunities (BBQ or campfire) to add variety and distribute the labor.  Cooking on a campfire can be fun and quite an adventure and is a good way to involve many family or group members.

Your first step toward successful camp cooking starts even before you leave home.  That is to plan an appropriate menu.  Think "simplicity.  Plan simple meals that will require minimum preparation:  hotdogs, hamburgers, sandwiches, foil dinners, stew, chili, cold cereal, etc.  One of our traditions is to have donuts for breakfast the first day in camp.  Yes, I know, it isn't the most nutritious meal, but we aren't exactly making a habit out of as rarely as we get to go camping and it lets us get going quick!

Setting up your camp kitchen or RV or boat galley properly will have a big effect on the efficiency -- and fun -- of camp cooking.  RV cabinets and counter tops are much smaller than their residential counterparts so you may not be able to have everything at your fingertips like you are used to having at home.  You may have to get things out in advance and have them staged "at the ready" so you don't waste time and energy digging in the backs of cupboards for what you need.  Have your utensils and all ingredients needed for the current meal gathered up and ready to use.   Boat galleys are often even more limited than RVs plus you probably have to deal with the boat rocking while youre cooking.  When tent camping, all your stuff is going to be in a back pack, duffle bag, tub, or chuck box so the same practice applies, perhaps even more so.  Set up your camp kitchen so all ingredients and necessary cooking implements are organized for easy access.   Have a dishpan ready for rinsing or soaking dishes, spoons, etc.  Make sure your campfire is properly formatted for cooking or that your camp stove is fueled and ready to go.  You may need to set up a wind screen around your stove or even around your campfire on windy days.

When preparing meals in an RV or on a boat you will want to be as efficient as possible.  That means more than just minimized use of the stove to conserve fuel.  You need to reduce use of water consumption, generation of trash, and restrict how often and how long you open the refrigerator.   Also, conserve your time.  You need so think carefully about how long it takes to prepare each dish and schedule cooking times to try to get everything ready at the same time.  Avoid messy dishes that make for a lot of cleanup.  All of that comes down to planning.  First, plan your meals in advance, way in advance.  By planning your menu long before you hit the road you can make sure you have all the right provisions and you have a chance to organize them so they'll be handy and easy to use on the road.  You may even want to pre-measure some ingredients and put them in labeled plastic bags so they're ready to use.  Sometimes  you can also pre-mix dry ingredients to reduce preparation time.  You don't want to have to search through cupboards or boxes of supplies to find a bottle of cooking oil after you've already lit the stove.  If you are accustomed to cooking at home, you probably have routines that work for you there but you may have to make adjustments when cooking in an RV.  A smaller stove may mean you can't cook as many things at the same time as you do at home and the smaller burners may mean it will take longer.   Think about what things can be prepared first without becoming unappealing if they sit for a while.  Baked potatoes hold their heat pretty well but mixed veggies cool pretty quickly, so keep things like that in mind when you structure your meal preparation.  Sometimes you can augment your cooking resources by shifting some of it, like steaks and burgers, baked potatoes and corn on the cob, to an outside BBQ or to the campfire.   This also lets you share the work by recruiting a companion to take charge of that part of the meal and outdoor cooking can even be fun.   And always plan ahead. If you're planning on having baked potatoes for dinner, you might want to wrap them in aluminum foil and tuck them in the coals of your campfire an hour or so before dinner time.  A potato baked in the campfire for an hour makes an tasty side dish.  A potato baked in the campfire for 3 hours makes an excellent hockey puck!  Taking advantage of the campfire also helps you conserve propane and creates some opportunities for several people to participate in some old fashioned pioneer type experiences.  You can let everyone cook their own hotdogs but you'll probably need a designated burger flipper to do hamburgers on the grill or campfire.

Mealtime when tent camping is usually quite a bit different than at home.  You may find yourself having to prepare your meals in adverse weather -- rain, wind, even snow.  Never try to cook in your tent.  That is a recipe for disaster!  If you;'re in a campground with canopies or pavilions, try to take advantage of them to protect you and your food from the weather.  If all else fails you might be able to stretch a tarp between some trees or poles or anchor it to the roof of your vehicle to give you a little shelter from the storm.  Just make sure it is high enough that it won't melt or catch on fire when you're cooking.  Depending on how much shelter you have around your camp kitchen, you may have to exercise special care to avoid getting rain in your flour or pancake mix or blowing debris adding unwanted variety to the taste and texture of your creations.  Rain falling into a frying pan filled with hot oil can be especially hazardous.  Water is heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom of the pan where it quickly becomes superheated and can virtually explode, scattering hot, possibly, flaming, oil all over the place.  As with cooking in an RV,  your cooking space is limited and planning is key to success.  You will most likely want to plan different meals than you usually prepare at home, choosing things that are appropriate to the season, are easy to prepare, serve, and clean up.  And, again, take advantage of campfire resources when you can.  As you gain experience cooking in camp you may discover you want to upgrade from a 2-burner stove to a 3-burner stove or perhaps even bring more than one stove.  Extra cooking facilities is especially helpful (and necessary) when you are cooking for larger groups.  How you organize your camp kitchen will have a significant effect on how convenient preparing meals will be.  Plan ahead and have ingredients well organized and close at hand. Some campers find it helpful to build a "chuck box" to organize their kitchens.  This is a tried and true option, one that goes back at least to American pioneer wagon trains and the chuck wagons on cattle drives.   For a modern variation, check out the little kitchens in the back of teardrop trailers. Lacking a chuck box or room to transport one, organize your provisions and utensils logically in plastic tubs.  Use dividers or smaller containers inside large tubs to protect individual items and make it easier to find what you need when you need it.   If everything is simply tossed into one large tub you'll find yourself digging through a foot or two of odds and ends to find a spoon or a spatula. Proper storage of foodstuffs is especially important.   No matter how careful you are, things are likely to get spilled in transit.  Loose ingredients like flour, sugar, and salt, get all over everything if the bag or box breaks . Escaping liquids will seep through and into unprotected packages of dry ingredients and soon you'll have to pretty much throw everything out and start over.   Proper storage can prevent a lot of problems.   Make sure caps are tight on all containers, then store bottles of liquids in their own plastic storage boxes so if they crack or the cap comes off, the contents will be contained and the rest of the bin or cupboard not contaminated.  Keeping dry ingredients in their own sealed plastic containers protects the packages from damage, prevents them from being contaminated by external spills, seals them from environmental moisture so they don't absorb moisture from humid air, and keeps the bugs out.

Campfire cooking is a fun way  to prepare your meals in camp.  But it requires proper preparation, special equipment, and careful procedures.  Get your fire started about an hour before you want to start cooking.  It is best to cook on the coals, not the flames.  You can even cook most meats directly on or over the coals without the need of a grill or pan.  Special equipment might include a grill, "pot dangler", or cast iron skillets and pots.  For a pioneer type experience, cook your meat or bread on a stick like you would hotdogs or marshmallows.  Twist bread is easy.  Start with a stiff dough, roll it into a rope shape, wrap it around a stick, and bake it over your campfire.  Keep an eye on what you're cooking.  Temperatures in a campfire are much different and more likely to change without warning than the temperatures on your stove at home or even your trusty Coleman stove in camp.  Check out these Ten Commandments for Campfire Cooking for more helpful tips.

 No matter what you are cooking or where, clean up as you go instead of setting dirty dishes and utensils aside to be washed later.  Usually cleaning things right away avoids having to deal with scrubbing dried or cooked on residue and will save you a lot of time in the long run.  And, since you probably have limited items, it may make things you need available when you need them again instead of having to stop and clean them before you can use them when you need them.

Tin foil dinners, such as hobo stew, are handy ways to have tasty, nutritious campfire meals.  They can be assembled from basic ingredients (usually meat and vegetables) and cooked right on the coals.  We like to make ours up ahead of time at home, sometimes even pre-cooking the meat in the microwave before wrapping them in foil.  They don't take up a lot of room in the fridge or cooler, they don't spill, they are really easy to cook on the campfire, and they really taste great!  And they don't dirty up a lot of pots and pans.

If you're camping in a developed campground, there may be a roofed area that will at least get you out of the rain or snow but usually these are open-sided so you may still have to deal with the wind.  Sometimes each site has its own canopy; sometimes there are larger shared pavilions.  If your camp site doesn't have one you may want to set up your own portable canopy, maybe a dining fly or an EZ-up.  I've seen campers set up tarps to protect their campsites, stretching them high enough between the trees and leaving a small opening in the middle so they can even have a protected campfire.  That will help keep rain out of the hot grease in they frying pan, but having anything overhead brings its own risks, so be careful!   Tarps will sometimes collect significant pools of water in low spots.  Eventually the weight may cause the tarp to tear or pull loose, dousing everyone and everything beneath with copious amounts of cold rain water.   Monitor water accumulation and periodically dump the pools before they dump themselves in the most unpleasant and untimely way.   Some additional tarps hung along the windward side may help shelter you from the wind.  Exercise special care when cooking under a canopy.  An unexpected flareup could catch your roof or walls on fire!

Meal schedules are likely to be modified when camping.   Hey! One of the reasons we go camping is to get out of the daily 9-5 grind!  The variety of activities and the potential for unforeseen circumstances to impact mealtimes pretty much dictate you have to be flexible.  Most times that isn't a problem, unless you make it into one.  You will find it is best not to try to maintain a fixed meal schedule tied to the clock when camping.  Don't worry about setting an alarm clock.  Have breakfast whenever you finally roll out of bed in the morning.  Although some people don't usually eat breakfast at home,  normally do try to start each day camping with a more or less nutritious breakfast (donuts the first morning are one of the more fun and less nutritious breakfasts).  Lunch works just about anytime you might think of as "mid day", but it doesn't have to be at a specific time.   Wait for a natural break in activities.  And have dinner in the evening after you've finished your day's activities and are ready to settle in for the night.  Having dinner at that time also lets you cook on the campfire, if you like, then just relax around it after dinner.  You meal schedules should be more governed by the sun, your body rhythms, and your activities than by the clock.  However, if you find benefit in keeping a regular schedule, by all means do so!  People with special diets or medical requirements may need to keep to a fixed schedule.

Clean up is far more important in camp than at home.   It is ALWAYS a good idea to clean up as you go, but if you don't keep up with it in camp there can be larger consequences than you normally experience at home.  Dump some water into pots and pans a soon as you're removed the food so they can begin soaking right away before stuff dries and bakes on.   If you're cooking on a campfire, you may want to leave the pots and pans on the fire with water in them for a while to loosen deposits, but don't let them boil dry.  Dispose properly of scraps before they can attract pests.   Even in an RV, you are likely to be surrounded by more potential pests than you have at home and when cooking outside you are smack in the middle of their environment.  Flying and crawling insects are usually among the first to arrive, but larger (and more dangerous) critters like raccoons and bears may also be drawn to unattended (and sometime attended) scraps.  While unwanted creatures are less likely to be a problem in an RV, spills and scraps left around contribute to unsanitary conditions and may produce unpleasant odors that are hard to escape or eliminate in the small space inside an RV.   Cooking fumes and odors can also be a problem in an RV, so try to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open some strategic windows and take advantages of the fan in your range hood (if you have one) to expel odors as quickly as possible.  Roof vents, especially those with fans than can be used to evacuate air from inside the coach, are also helpful in getting rid of odors before they saturate carpet, curtains, and upholstery or cling to walls and windows.   Give cloth upholstery a shot of Fabreze and vacuum them now and then to minimize the accumulation of cooking odors.   Clean interior glass and vinyl surfaces to remove the build up of film from cooking fumes.   Meal preparation in camp should at the very least always be easy and convenient.  Ideally, it should even be fun!

Presentation is often a big part of meals at home.  My wife can whip up some frozen corn dogs and make it look like a gourmet meal.  Options for elaborate presentation in camp are probably going to be much more limited than at home, but you may still want to spiff up some meals.   And remember, just eating off paper plates around the campfire or at your RVor picnic table is perfectly acceptable.  Fancy dinnerware or serving containers are definitely NOT required when camping.  Consider that billionaire William Randolf Hearst served all condiments in their original containers at his "ranch" at San Simeone (better know as Hearst Castle), even when entertaining VIPs like politicians, Hollywood celebrities, and even royalty.   If you do want to add some decoration, sometimes you can put some wild flowers in a plastic cup for a centerpiece at dinner (just be sure picking the flowers isn't against the rules where you're camping!).  A single candle, even a little votive light, can add a touch of ambiance to the table without taking up much room in your cupboards and if its a citronella candle it will help keep insects away.   Even a little LED faux candle looks nice and you can often get them at dollar stores.   And they don't present a fire hazard if used in tents.  I've seen RV advertisements in magazines and displays at trade shows with lavish flower arrangements and even live plants.  That is OK for a trade show or a commercial, but, personally, I don't think it is very practical for real  camping.  I would prefer to give the space and weight consumed by such items to things that add more convenience or functionality.  In most places we go camping, the location itself provides more than enough "eye candy".   You can always do something fun like learn fun and spiffy ways to fold paper napkins or add a little pretty garnish to your meals.  Sometimes you may even be able to find suitable garnish in the wild (one of my favorites is water cress), but be sure you know what you're picking and that picking it isn't prohibited or the food is contaminated.

Now you're cooking!

RV or Tent Living Large

Most of us have a tendency to think bigger is better.   Doesn't matter whether its a tent or an RV a car or a permanent residence.  Bigger usually means more luxury and more comforts and more prestige.  People tend to start out camping small, with a pup tent or a tent trailer, but after a few years, their "needs" and wants begin to grow.  When you are camping alone you can get by sleeping in a pup tent, but, as your family grows, a larger family tent will usually be more be comfortable and can be used for more than just sleeping.  A tent trailer offers a lot of amenities, but a big motorhome or travel trailer delivers even more luxury, comforts, and convenience.   A little tent trailer gets you up off the ground but a motorhome or travel trailer can deliver near residential services and conveniences anywhere you go.   If you've ever had to weather out a storm in a tent you'll appreciate having some kind of RV with solid roof and a nice, forced air furnace to warm you up!  If you have kids you will really come to appreciate having a TV to keep them occupied on rainy days and long trips.

But is bigger ALWAYS better?  Not necessarily.  A bigger tent is going to be heavier to carry around and will take up more room in your car, your trailer, and your shed or garage.  It will take longer to set up and to strike.   It will be harder to heat in cold weather.  It will probably cost more. One must weigh these disadvantages against the perceived comfort and prestige of using a larger tent. Larger RVs usually have more amenities, but may be limited on where they can go.  Some places have restrictions on length, height, and weight.   Bigger motorhomes don't always mean room for more people.  Many large, luxury, Class As are designed for just two people while smaller Class C's often have sleeping accommodations for 6-8 people.  Going from a Class C to a bigger Class A might actually reduce the number of people who could "live" comfortably in a rig.  And you can usually be VERY comfortable in a moderate sized RV.   If it doesn't come with all the luxuries you want, they can usually be added.  Big things like washers and dyers aren't usually very feasible, but many of the other conveniences found on high end rigs can be added to more modest units to improve comfort, convenience, and livability.   It is mostly a matter of cost.  The one thing that usually can't be added, is more room.

Bigger usually means there is more to maintain and keep clean.  A bigger tent or RV is going to take more time to clean and take more work to maintain.  Usually that will also translate into higher costs for larger accommodations.

Why would you want a larger tent or RV?   Sometimes, as families grow, they really need more space.   We started out with a Class B van conversion and it worked well for our little family of 4.   We even added an extra bunk across the front seats when our third child came along.  But as our family continued to grow we physically outgrew the little van.   If we were going to continue camping in an RV we clearly needed a bigger one.  The same thing can happen with tents, but you may have more options with tents.  One alternative to upsizing is to just buy a second tent.   That works pretty well when you have older kids who can and want to be in their own tent, but it may not work as well for families with younger children or members who need constant supervision.  A second reason for going bigger is probably more of a want than a need.  That is the desire for more "elbow room" in your facility.   You might get by for a while longer with the smaller equipment, but we all love our creature comforts, and even if you're not particularly claustrophobic, things can get cramped in camp when you put too many people into too small a space.  Sometimes the additional space is a practical concern, like having enough room to safely cook meals in an RV or having enough room to get dressed in a tent.   Larger tents are often perceived as more luxurious so we think we want them.  That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but we should always weigh the actual values, not just perceived benefits, versus cost and other factors that impact usage.  Remember, a bigger tent will take up more room in your vehicle, be heavier to carry around, and harder to keep warm on cold days.

If you are tempted to upsize your RV or tent, make sure you know what you are getting and that it will deliver the benefits you seek and you are aware of the additional requirements or restrictions it may bring.  Jumping to a large Class A when you need more beds for a growing family may be a big disappointment.  You may find transporting, setting up, and taking down a huge, heavy family tent is more trouble than it's worth.  On the other hand, if a larger facility meets your needs and satisfies your wants -- and you can live with the conditions that come with it -- by all means, go for it!  I must admit I look with a certain amount of envy at some of the newer "front porch" and "lodge" tents, but since my primary camping is via RV and I don't have a large family at home any more, those large tents would just be extra weight to carry around and extra room to heat.  If I were going to be staying in one camp site for an extended time I might have time to enjoy a bigger tent, but most likely it would just be more space to heat and keep clean!  BTW, we've never  been sorry we upgraded our RVs over the years.  Each upgrade was done with quite a lot of thought and research and whole lot of price comparison.

Prestige -- or at least the perception of prestige -- is sometimes a factor in upgrading.  But ask  yourself if you are doing it for your own benefit or to try to impress others.  Sometimes a larger RV or even a larger tent make people feel better about themselves, and that is certainly OK.  But if you find your interest in upgrading is mostly to impress your friends, it is a good idea to re-think it!   In most cases I wouldn't think prestige or ego should be a sufficient reason to get bigger facilities.   It could be a lot of expense without delivering any real benefits.   But, if you will really enjoy using a larger tent or having a bigger RV, if it makes it more fun for you, then go for it.   Only you can decide if the cost of going larger is worth the financial outlay and any additional effort or limitations your larger equipment will impose on you.

Before you go out and spend big bucks for a bigger tent or RV, invest some time researching  your options.   Check out bigger RVs at trade shows, at dealer lots, and among your fellow campers.   Make a list of potential upgrades so you can compare features and prices.  The same thing applies to upsizing your tent:  check out the options.  Make sure you know what you want before you blow big bucks on something that may or may not satisfy you for very long.  If you can, always try before you buy.  It may seem like a waste of money to rent equipment, but if lets you zero in on getting the right stuff without blowing your budget on purchasing errors, it will save you money in the long run.

Many of us have become accustomed to saving money by buying the "giant economy size" offerings and case lots at supermarkets and warehouse stores like Costco and Sam's Club.   That may make sense when you have appropriate storage for them at home, but when camping, in an RV or a tent, bigger is definitely not always better.  You need to balance the quantity of many products against their use, storage, and transportation.   A 50# bag of flour may be a good choice for your kitchen or pantry at home, but it is usually a lot more than you'll need for any ordinary family camping trip.  Buy or bring along sizes that match your expected consumption. Y ou may still be able take advantage of the price savings on bulk purchases if you simply re-package just what you need for each outing and leave the excess home.

Ultimately the best solution is "right sizing":   choose the RV or tent that is right for your current needs.  The same thing can be said for most of your camping equipment and even supplies.  Having a stove that is sufficient for your needs beats the heck out of trying to work with one that is too small and is inadequate for preparing meals for your family.  But having one that is too big is just going to take up extra room, add weight, and cost you more money.  The right size tent will fit your family without taking up too much room, being too difficult to set up and take down, too hard to keep warm, or adding too much weight.

Live large -- judiciously!

Hobbies on the Road

For some RVing or OHVing is a hobby all by itself.   For others, especially those who may be full-timers or spend significant time in their RV each year, they have other hobbies they may want to bring along.  For some an RV is the means to get where they're going to exercise their hobby.  RVs make good base camps for hiking, fishing, hunting, birdwatching, sight seeing, OHV riding, horseback riding, and rock collecting.

What hobbies can you bring along?  You are really only limited by your imagination and how much specialized equipment your hobby requires -- and how much room you have to haul it.  Some typical things people bring along include various kinds of sewing or needlework, jewelry making, music (especially portable instruments like guitars, banjos, and harmonicas), and wood carving. If your hobby is furniture making you may need an equipment trailer to serve as your shop and haul the lathes and other power equipment you use.  I have seen a few RV parks that cater to woodworkers and, over time, customers have built up a pretty complete workshop.  Things like stamp and coin collecting take up little room in an RV.   I would be a little concerned about security for high-dollar hobbies like these.  In the first place, I would minimize the exposure by not openly advertising my collection (security by obscurity).  Next I would invest in a quality floor safe to house my valuables, install an alarm system, and be sure to lock up whenever I have to leave my RV.

Some resorts and other destinations cater to specific hobbies.  The annual winter encampment at Quartzite, Arizona, is a jewelry and rock hound heaven.  I have read of resorts that have wood shops with equipment donated by customers or acquired through fund raising by selling products created there by clients during their stay.  Some resorts support various sports and games, like golf, shuffleboard, and pickleball by providing facilities and even sponsoring tournaments.  We had a small archery range at the resort where I worked as assistant manager a couple of summers ago.  Some locations may serve as a base camp for OHV trails.

Crafts of various kinds are popular pastimes for campers.   Because many crafts, like jewelry making and various kinds of needlework, require little in the way of bulky materials or tools, they lend themselves well to to semi-nomadic lifestyle of campers.  You might even find a market for your wares within campgrounds.

Music is a common hobby among RVers.   You will mostly find campfire compatible instruments like guitars, banjos, harmonicas, and tambourines but I've seen at least one couple that also brought along a bass fiddle to entertain their fellow campers.  Folk music and bluegrass music seem to most popular, with country music close behind, followed by pop music.  There are even special "break-away" guitars that fold up to be more compact for RV travel.  Or get a Martin "Backpacker" guitar.  The Backpacker is very compact but it doesn't have a lot of volume.  It is a nice option to entertain yourself in your tent, but probably not loud enough for a sing-a-long around the campfire.   Brass instruments and electric guitars aren't very common in campgrounds.  Synthesizers offer an abundance of sounds if you prefer keyboards and can sometimes be quite compact and easy to transport.  You will probably need a campground with electrical hookups or a generator to power them.

For some collectors, RV trips are hunting expeditions.   Since you are often traveling outside your normal stomping grounds you have a chance to seek out bargains in places off the beaten path.  That works pretty well for small collectibles like stamps, coins, dolls, books, records, etc., but you'll need to pull a big trailer if you're hunting for furniture or other large antiques.  Or come back for them or pay to have them shipped.   Sometimes it is cheaper and a lot more convenient to bring a rental truck back than to pull a big trailer all over creation and half of Georgia!   Some people may be tempted to use their RV roof as a cargo area.  This is generally not a good idea, especially for large or heavy items.  The risk of injury to people or damage to the items or the RV while loading or unloading is too great.   Carrying heavy items on the roof may damage the roof and could affect handling.  Having items exposed to the elements and sticking up where they might get caught on limbs or other low hanging obstacles is also a recipe for trouble.  It is amazing what people collect these days.  Old school lunch boxes, cereal boxes, dolls, toys, clocks, bottle-caps;  you name it!  If you have an interest in and knowledge of such items you may be able to find good deals on salable items as you travel.  Some people put their finds on ebay immediately and sell them while they're still on the road, sometimes paying for their trip and even turning a profit.  You may even be able to write off some of your travels on your taxes if your trip is a legitimate expedition to search for merchandise or buyers.

Camping itself is a hobby for some people.  Collecting and trying out new camping gadgets is always fun to do.   Scouring local stores or even garage sales for unusual camping items or bargains can be very exciting and rewarding.  Talking with rangers, camp hosts, and fellow campers enhances your knowledge of the area and adds to your camping skills.   There are lots of opportunities for creative camp cooking.

For some people shopping and bargain hunting is a hobby.   The proliferation of "Factory Outlet" shopping centers near freeway off ramps attests to the popularity of bargain hunting. Many advertise having RV parking.   Many times you will find special deals on clothing, household goods, tools, and camping gear.  There was an auto parts store near my parents' house that I liked to check out whenever we went for a visit.  I usually found some new hand tools at better prices than I ever saw at home.  Don't know what their secret was.  It was a small town so I'm pretty sure they weren't fencing stolen goods!  Which brings up another consideration:  if something seems too good to be true, it usually is!   If someone offers you something like a Rolex watch for $50 you can be sure it is either a fake, it is broken, or it is stolen!  Caveat emptor!   But there are rare exceptions.   Like a man who saw a late model Cadillac advertised in newspaper classifieds for just $50.  Since the asking price was way below even the salvage value that a junk yard would pay he was very skeptical but finally decided to check it out anyway.   He found the vehicle was in like-new condition, with no hidden history, accident damage, liens, or being a murder site or anything nasty like that.  It was clearly worth thousands of dollars.  Because so many people were skeptical or believed the price to be a misprint, he was the only one that showed up to actually look at the car.   Turns out the car had belonged to the woman's late husband, who, in his will, had directed that it be sold and the proceeds given to his mistress!   The savvy and understandably unhappy wife cleverly found a way to comply with his request without giving much of anything to the mistress.

Some people have hobbies they like to take with them when camping.   As you might  expect, some hobbies lend themselves to being incorporated into camping activities more than others, although you might be surprised at some of the options.   For example, woodworking usually requires a lot of special tools and a considerable amount of specialized equipment and plenty of room to work.  While those requirements are rather difficult to include in your personal RV, I have read of campgrounds that cater to woodworkers and have a fairly well equipped shop available for their use with machines donated by or purchased by regular users.  However most people who take their hobbies on the road with them choose activities that are pretty much self contained and for which all the necessary supplies and equipment can be conveniently pack in the RV.  Musicians take their portable instruments.  Most kinds of needle work can be fairly easily adapted for camping.  Scrapbooking is popular among some people.  Stamp collecting and coin collecting can be accommodated, but because these sometimes involve high value items  you may need extra security, such as a safe.

If you are going to take your hobby on the road with you, think about what special features, supplies, and equipment you may need.  If you need computer access for research, inventory, or bookkeeping, do you have an appropriate place in your RV to set up a work station?   If you need a place to examine items, do you have appropriate work space and adequate lighting?  If you need any special tools do you have them and have an appropriate and convenient place to put them in your RV? If you find you are deficient in any way, it might be a good idea to wait until you have things ready before you hit the road.   With a little creativity you can usually adapt your RV to accommodate your needs.

Some hobbies can also be a revenue source for RVers.  I've seen RVers sell hand made craft items and others who shop garage sales, flea markets, and 2nd hand stores for collectibles they can resell on ebay.  Reselling right away on ebay avoids the need to haul stuff around as you can usually package it up and send it via UPS or the USPS from almost anywhere.

Sometimes an RV can be a hobby of its own.  Certain traditional brands, like Airstream and Shasta, even have large owner clubs who foster sharing information and activities.   But even an "ordinary" RV can be a hobby to some owners -- customizing it, using it, improving it, showing it off.

Hobbies are fun!

Using Tarps for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Tarps are a handy resource in just about any camp (or around home too).   They can be used for extra shade, extra rain protection, to cover equipment, and as ground cloths under or inside your tent or even to make a tent.   Tarps come in many different strengths.   The lightest and least expensive tarps (not counting plastic drop cloths) are polytarps and they come in different colors.  The blue tarps are usually the lightest and least expensive.  They will normally be sufficient for most camping temporary tasks.  For a stronger tarp (good for under your tent or longer term use), choose a green "farm tarp" or one of the heavier silver tarps.   For really heavy duty applications, go for a heavy canvas tarp.  There are different grades or weights of canvas tarps, depending on what you need to cover and for how long.  Another consideration is whether the tarp will be stationery or on a vehicle or otherwise subjected to high winds and extreme weather.  How heavy a tarp you need depends on how you're going to use it and how far you have to carry it!   Heavy canvas tarps will be the most durable and provide the most protection, but they are very heavy to carry around if you're hiking or have any distance to tote your equipment from your vehicle to your camp site.  They also tend to be stiff and somewhat harder to work with, especially when its cold.  Light weight "poly" tarps are usually sufficient without the added weight and they take up far less room.  And they are inexpensive and are usually waterproof. u But there are even heavier alternatives out there.  My parents have roll up tarp "walls" on their carport in Oregon.  They are made of the heaviest canvas I've ever seen, at least 3/16" thick and the weave is as coarse as a wood rasp (I  have had the skinned knuckles to prove it)!  They've been in use for over 50 years  of Oregon rain and are still going strong.   They are permanently mounted to the carport but can be rolled up when necessary.  Of course, they are WAY too heavy to consider for camping.   Plastic painter's sheets are just the opposite -- very light, very thin plastic film.  It is inexpensive, waterproof, and easy to carry.  But it isn't very sturdy and is easily punctured or torn. You might use one or more temporarily to keep the rain off, but they won't provide much shade and probably won't stand up to wind and weather very well.  Using one as a ground cloth is pretty much an exercise in futility.  They are so fragile that small twigs and pebbles will easily make holes in them and render them useless.

Tarps come in a variety of sizes so you can usually find one close to the size you need.  Harbor Freight has a wide selection of tarps in various strengths and sizes.  Watch for their ads and flyers and you can often find them on sale to save even more money.

Actual measurements of tarps are usually slightly smaller than the advertised size.   For example, an 8x10 tarp will probably actually measure 7'6" by 9'6".  Be sure to take that into consideration when you buy a tarp.   The actual finished size is usually marked somewhere on the package.   If you want a ground cloth for an 8x10 tent, you may have to buy the next size bigger tarp and fold the excess under.  On the other hand, using a standard "8x10" tarp fits nicely inside an 8x10 tent and even might be just right for use under an 8x10 tent.  It would likely be about 2-3" smaller than the tent on each side so it wouldn't stick out and collect run-off. But -- it could also leave 3" of tent floor exposed to the damp ground and/or debris.  Since you usually won't be walking that close to the walls, the 3" probably won't be a problem.  The trimmed size is usually very good for an inside layer to protect the floor.

For best results as a ground cloth, use a heavy duty tarp underneath your tent to protect the floor against debris and ground moisture.  Use a second tarp inside your tent for added waterproofing to your sleeping bags don't absorb moisture.  The inside ground cloth doesn't need to be as heavy as the one underneath the tent but it should be waterproof, like a plastic tarp.   Using closed cell foam sleeping pads beneath your sleeping bags will give you even better protection and comfort.  Even if you are using sleeping pads to protect your sleeping bags, having an inside ground cloth covering the entire tent floor will help keep the floor clean and be more comfortable when you are moving around in stocking feet and will help protect the floor from damage.   For exceptional comfort, add foam tile to cover your tent floor inside.  It will be like having a wall-to-wall sleeping pad.  The foam tiles are light weight, easy to assemble, and easy to clean.  With both foam tiles and a sleeping pad, you'll be sleeping on cloud 9!

With use tarps will eventually loose some of the their water repellent capability.  Repeated folding, crushing, or whipping in the wind breaks down the structure and wears away the coating. When your tarp begins to get soft and fuzzy and the color begins to fade it is probably time to replace it.  Not only will it have lost some of its ability to keep you dry, it will have been weakened and may rip in the next strong breeze.  Most polytarps will be kind of shiny when they are new and begin to dull as they age.  Sometimes you can extend a tarps waterproof lifetime by spraying it with a waterproofing like Camp Dry.

Tarps can be hung between trees or vehicles or on poles to form a makeshift canopy to provide shade or protection against light rain.   Tarps can be added as an extra "rain fly" over tents for extra protection against rain and sun.   Tarps can be used to cover your firewood and your camping equipment and OHVs to protect them from weather.   I've even seen multiple tarps used to cover an entire camp site.  The center was very high, both for rain run off and to allow building a campfire.  It rained almost that entire weekend, but the large, extended family stayed dry and enjoyed their outing.  Some of the teens had fun dumping the water out of the low spots periodically to help prevent the tarps from coming down.

You can make your own tent using tarps.  A simple shelter can be made by hanging a single tarp over a rope or other cordage or a rafter stretched between two uprights  For more weather protection, use multiple tarps to also enclose the open ends. .  Or you can use one to make a simple lean-to ito keep the rain off.

Tarps are often used to cover equipment in the bed of a truck or utility trailer during transport. They need to be securely anchored to withstand the wind forces that occur at highway speeds.  For the best protection against rain, drape the tarp over the sides of the bed and secure it underneath.  If you leave it inside the bed water can run down and soak your cargo.  In camp they can protect equipment from sun and from rain and snow.   They provide some level of security too -- sometimes just keeping your stuff out of sight avoids it being "acquired" by opportunistic thieves.   "Security by obscurity" is a valid and valuable way of protecting your stuff.

We have found several uses for tarps on our sailboat.  Because wind driven rain can sometimes blow under the companionway slide we usually drape a small polytarp over the cabin to protect the companionway from the rain when anchored.  We hang a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for extra shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Tarps can be used as temporary sail covers if you don't want to take the time to flake the sails and put them away when you stop for a while.  Large tarps can be used to cover your boat to protect it from the elements during the off season.

Small holes or tears can usually be repaired using duct tape or vinyl tape.   Make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape.  For added security, put tape over the damaged area on both sides of the tarp.  Because of the oily waterproofing used on canvas tarps, regular tape may not always stick well.  If any tarp is exposed to wind and weather, the tape may come off.  For best results stitch a waterproof patch in place and seal it with tent seam sealer -- or just replace the tarp.   If there are too many holes and repairs, it becomes something like a description I once heard of how to make a net:  take a bunch of holes and sew them together.   You'll want to replace your tarp long before it reaches that stage. 

Tarps usually come with metal grommets evenly spaced around all 4 sides.  These are useful for tying or staking down the tarp.  If you have a tarp without grommets or need more grommets you can buy grommet kits at most camping stores.  They usually include two-piece grommets, a tool for punching the right size hole in the tarp, and a tool for "setting"the grommet.  That tool consists of a shaped bottom plate that holds the flat piece of the grommet and a driver tool that is used to rivet the second piece to the first using a hammer.  You can also buy tarp clamps that will add "eyes" for attaching ropes without punching holes in the tarp.  Another trick for securing a tarp is to out small rock or short twig near the edge and wrap the tarp around it and secure it with a piece of rope or twine and tie a guy rope to it.  There are also tarp clamps you can use in place of grommets  Here is an example of commercially available tarp clamps:

                                                        

You can buy them at places like Walmart, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Amazon.

Tarps and tent fabrics degree of water proofing are measured by something called hydrostatic pressure.   It represents the pressure necessary to force water through the fabric.   Heavy rain and wind-driven rain will create a higher hydrostatic pressure than light rain so you need a stronger fabric to keep out extreme weather.  A rating of 1000 mm hydrostatic pressure is regarded as shower resistant.  1500 mm rating is sufficient for a summer tent.   2000 mm is the minimum for an all season tent.  Higher ratings of around 3000 mm are used for expedition tents and 5000 mm for really good quality ground cloths.  You probably won't find the ratings for a particular item without doing some extra research.

We use a small polytarp to cover the cabin on our sailboat to prevent wind-driven rain from blowing under the companionway slide when the boat is not in use.  We pull a larger tarp over the boom and tie it off to the lifelines to make a "boom tent" for added shade in the cockpit when at anchor.  Commercial boom tents can cost hundreds of dollars.  They may look nicer, but don't really function any better than an inexpensive tarp.

Small tarps can be used as emergency ponchos.  The only downside is that you need to cut a hole in the middle to put your head through, perhaps limiting its value for other uses.  For short term use you may be able to just drape it over your head and shoulders like a cape.  Conversely, ponchos can sometimes be  used as small tarps.  The built in hood helps compensate for the hole in the middle.

In an emergency you might cut open a large plastic trash bag and use it as a small tarp, but for best results keep a variety of tarps on hand to accommodate different needs.  Small tarps are surprisingly inexpensive.   I often see them at dollar stores.  Large plastic garbage bags make pretty good ponchos too, and they're a lot cheaper than tarps.

Tarp it!

Stocking Up For Camping

Two posts, Stocking Your RV, and Stocking Your Camp Kit dealt with what to put in your RV or camp kit.  This post deals more with the process -- the mechanics and timing -- of stocking up to take advantage of sales or bulk purchasing and to have what you need on hand when you need it without having to make a last minute trip to the store.   By stocking up in advance you can spread out your camping costs and can often also take advantage of special pricing to further reduce the cost.   Stocking up makes sure you have what you need on hand for each outing.  It also helps you keep your RV or camp kit ready for spontaneous outings and to meet your emergency preparedness needs in case of a disaster scenario.   You should definitely consider emergency preparedness supplies as you determine what provisions you want in your RV or your camping bins.  You may be able to take advantage of buying in bulk and re-packaging just what you need for each trip.  Large sizes are usually not necessary or convenient when camping, but purchasing things that have sufficient shelf life in quantity and in advance can save time and money.  You may be able to "go in" with a fellow camper to make bulk purchases to reduce costs and simply repackage the supplies in appropriate sized containers for your individual use.

Stocking up for camping can help you take advantage of sale prices and coupons and have things on hand for repairs and for spontaneous outings.   But you must consider the shelf life of the items you purchase.  It doesn't do a lot of good to stock up on perishable items. They are likely to go bad before you have a chance to use them.  For example, no one in their right mind would buy a whole case of bananas and put them in their RV for future trips.   But there are other things that do make sense to stockpile so you can replenish your RV or camping tubs as needed without an extra trip to the store.   If you wait until you're ready to go on a trip and have to restock, it can be time consuming and sometimes expensive.  Buying things on sale and spreading purchases over time reduces the over all cost makes the financial impact less focused.

What should you stock up on?  It doesn't always make sense to stock up on things.  Stocking up on seldom used items is usually just a waste of space and money.  However, stocking up on frequently used or expendable items has several advantages.  The first, at last in my mind, is convenience.  Having what I need when I need it without having to make a trip to the store is priceless!  In close second is the opportunity to save money.  I like to take advantage of sale prices to stock up on camping supplies and gadgets.  You also usually save money by buying articles at your local Walmart or other department store instead of paying inflated prices at small stores in resorts or other remote areas.

Non-perishable foods can be usually be safely stockpiled.  Canned goods do well unless you leave them in your RV in freezing weather.  Be sure to check them regularly and discard any that show signs of leaking or bulging.  Dry goods do best when re-packaged in waterproof plastic containers. Things like cooking oil, syrups, and honey have a pretty long shelf life but you'll want to check them regularly to make sure they're still good.  Cooking oil does go rancid after a while, especially in hot weather.  Syrups usually last a long time and honey has an almost indefinite shelf life.  It may crystallize, but you can warm it up in a pan of warm water and it will be good as new.  Don't microwave honey.   It damages its nutritional value.  Viable honey has been found in 3000 year old tombs in Egypt.  A good way to build up camping or emergency provisions without breaking the bank is to simply buy one extra can of something (soup, chili, stew, tuna) each time you do your normal grocery shopping.

Most cleaning supplies have a fairly long shelf life.  Things like dish soap, furniture polish, window cleaner, etc. are among the things I often stock up on.  I find an aerosol can of carpet cleaner is also good to have in my RV for quick cleanups.  I live in a rural area so it makes sense to stock up when we go to town.  Some toiletries also last a long time, but I've noticed degradation in lotions when they are exposed to extreme temperatures.  I have read some liquid cleaning supplies may begin to loose some of their effectiveness after about a year, so be sure to check them periodically.  Shampoo, hand soap, toothpaste, and deodorants usually last pretty well, although I have observed separation or thinning in some lotions and liquid soaps.

Some medical and first aid supplies are long lasting.  Things like gauze pads and triangle bandages pretty much last forever in sealed storage (unless insects or vermin get into them), but things with glue like adhesive tape and Bandaids don't fare so well, especially if it gets hot where they are stored. The glue either dries out and won't stick or gets wet and slippery and the Bandaid won't stay where it belongs.  Some medications have a long shelf life, others do not.   Aspirin will develop a vinegar smell as it gets old, but it is still probably safe to use although perhaps not quite as effective and would be better than nothing.  I usually don't store a lot of extra medications, even though an Army study found that most meds are good for at least 15 years after their expiration dates!   I do try to keep my on board medicine cabinet fully stocked between trips but having duplicate bottles of medication just takes up space and may go bad before you will ever use it, especially since we seldom get to enjoy our camping trips as often was we'd like to.  Most everything will last several months, but extreme heat and cold may dictate checking things more often.  To be on the safe side, when in doubt, throw it out.  When disposing of medications, do so responsibly.  Some should be taken to a pharmacy.  The FDA recommends that some be flushed down the toilet.  But the most common way of disposing of them is to mix them with an unpalatable substance such as coffee grounds or kitty litter (smashing or grinding them before mixing is a good idea, just don't inhale or ingest any of the dust!), then sealing the whole mess in a plastic bag or disposable plastic container before putting them in the trash.

Spare parts for camping equipment is a good thing to have on hand.  Most have an indefinite shelf life.  I like to keep a "bunch" of things like bungee cords, grommets, back-pack pins, lashing straps, and sleeping bag cord locks on hand.   There always seems to be a need for them.  I lost track of some of my stash when we moved and ended up paying something like $3.00 for two cord locks when I needed them in a hurry for an outing.   Then I stocked up on about 50 of them for $2.00 on eBay, so I'll be set for a while, if I can keep track of them this time!   Small, expendable and inexpensive items like this are perfect candidates for stocking up on.  I like to have spare repair kits for the pumps and generators on my Coleman stoves and lanterns, but they are a little pricey and they don't often go on sale.  Tent repair kits will come in handy and they are usually seasonal enough that you'll find them at end of season clearances.  I look for the ones with self-adhesive nylon patches. They usually include a variety of colors and can be used to repair jackets and riding gear as well as tents, sleeping bags, and back packs.  More comprehensive kits may include netting for repairing screens and metal sleeves for fixing shock-corded poles.  I've found it useful to keep a grommet kit on hand to add grommets to my RV "grass" mat or tarps as needed and for repairs to tents and backpacks.  They are fairly inexpensive and you only need a hammer and solid work surface (even a piece or two of firewood) to install grommets.

Lubricants and fluids for your RV, tow vehicle and/or OHVs are good to stock up on.   They usually have a very long shelf life so you don't have to worry about them going bad.  Since they are used often in routine vehicle maintenance they tend to get used up pretty quickly so it is good to have some extras on hand.  Also watch for good buys on Brake Cleaner.   I find it handy for lot of parts cleaning tasks when working on my RV and OHVs.  However, if you live in an area subject to cold winters, you may find that some aerosol lubricants will freeze up during cold weather so you may want to move them to your garage or workshop.  Aerosol cans can also clog up as they age so test them periodically and replaced items that can't be reclaimed.  If just the spray head is clogged you might be able to soak it in solvent to reclaim it.  Sometimes you can also purchase replacement spray heads where spray paint is sold.

Spare parts for OHVs and other toys are good to have on hand, especially those items that are frequently damaged like brake and clutch levers on dirt bikes and ATVs.   Spare master links are always handy for chain-driven vehicles.  Spare spark plugs are a must have for vehicles powered by 2-stroke engines.  Having extra throttle, brake, and clutch cables can also save you a trip to town -- and your weekend of riding.  Tire patches and extra tubes for your OHVs are good to have on hand -- along with the right tools and the know-how to use them.  I find that hot-vulcanizing patches work better than the simple "peel and paste" patches typically used for bicycle tires.  They may be a bit more expensive and take a little longer to use but given the quality of the repair are more than worth the extra cost and extra effort to install.

Tools are always good to have.  No doubt you will identify new tools you might need or want during your outings.  You may see something someone else is using or encounter a situation where you don't have the right tool.  Take advantage of sales and clearances to improve your tool box.   Tools to consider should include camping tools and kitchen utensils as well as traditional mechanical hand tools.  The right tools can make almost any task fairly pleasant while the wrong tools can turn the simplest task into a frustrating disaster!  And tools aren't going to do you much good if you don't know how to use them.  Adult education classes in basic auto mechanics are available in most communities.  Of course there is always the trade of between weight /space and utility.  Is it worth the extra convenience to lug around a lot of specialized tools?  When they are required for difficult and necessary tasks the answer is a resounding "YES!" but if there is any question and you have acceptable alternate ways of getting the job done you may not want to further burden your tool box.  I find Harbor Freight is a great place to get inexpensive tools to supplement my RV and motorcycle tool kits but I also try to take advantage of sale prices on Craftsman and Husky tools when I can find them.  You can often find good deals on tools on web sites like ebay and craigslist.  And don't forget your local garage sales.  They can often be a great source of slightly used tools at great prices.  Shop early in the day for the best selection; shopping near the end of the day will sometimes let you negotiate better prices.

General camping supplies are one of the things I watch for on clearance.   Propane cylinders and lantern mantles get used up pretty fast so I like to stock up when I can get a good price on them instead of having to pay premium prices in camp or on the road when I run out.   Other things like plastic egg carriers, metal camping mirrors, individual first aid kits, individual mess kits, tent stakes and just about anything else that might show up on a camping clearance are candidates for stocking up, especially things that tend to be disposable (though usually not by intent).  I sometimes take advantage of clearance prices to try out camping gadgets I don't have.  I am hesitant to pay full price for something I'm not sure about, but if its on sale for a couple of bucks it may be worth adding to my supplies so I can try it out.

Batteries are good to keep on hand, but they don't last forever, so be judicious in how many you buy at one time.  I like to keep at least a half dozen or so of each popular size (AAA, AA, C, & D) in my RV and in my motorcycle trailer.  I also keep a few extra 9-volt batteries for the smoke detectors. You'll want to test the batteries in your stash from time to time so you can toss out and replace any that are failing.  The last thing you need is to look into your supply and think, "I've got six D cells", then find they're all dead when you need them!  If you leave batteries in your flashlights between trips, turn one of the batteries around.   That way, if the switch gets bumped, the light won't go on and drain the batteries. Just remember to turn them back around at the beginning of your next trip.  I can usually find most common batteries at my local Dollar Tree, so keeping them up to date is not expensive.  While these are not premium quality batteries, I have found them to be adequate for camping and the low price keeps the cost down even if I do go through a couple of battery changes in an outing, which would be quite unusual.

I sometimes consider stocking up on larger camping items like tents, canopies, and sleeping bags when I find a particularly good price on them, like year end clearances or garage sales.   It isn't like I expect to need to replace these items regularly, but my penchant for emergency preparedness drives me to supplement my survival supplies from time to time.  Not only might I need them for family or friends, but they could be used to barter for things I might not have.  In some cases I have found it useful to have options when it comes to tents and sleeping bags . I loved using my little pop-up tent for overnighters with my sons' Boy Scout troops, but there are also times when a larger family tent is more appropriate and convenient.  I've begun to eye some new "front porch tents" that have a built in screen room on one end, just for the novelty and convenience and fun of using them.  I can't count the number of times my grown kids have needed to borrow camping equipment and it is always good to have some extras on hand -- and to have choices to fit their differing and changing individual family needs.   I find it good to have a choice for my own outings.  I picked up a little 2-man pup tent at a year-end clearance a while back and it was perfect to toss into the trunk of the car on a road trip last summer, giving us the option to stop overnight along the way. I would probably not ever use it for a regular camping trip, but it was really handing for a quick overnight stop.  Not every trip or destination is the same and having appropriate equipment for a particular outing enhances each experience.  Besides that, sometimes its fun to tryout different tents etc.  I sometimes justify purchasing extra equipment to have on hand for emergency preparedness . I'll either have stuff to for my family, stuff to share, or stuff I can use to barter for things I may need.

Camping appliances, like stoves, lanterns, and heaters tend to be rather expensive and they also have long useful lifetimes so they are also things I usually only buy extras of if I find really low prices.  I was tempted by a half price sale on a Coleman Dual-fuel lantern, but for a long time I couldn't quite justify the cost yet, even at half price . Dual-fuel lanterns run on Coleman fuel (white gas) or ordinary unleaded gasoline, making them ideal for home emergencies.  If I had to I could siphon some gas out of one of my cars to fill the lantern if I ran out of Coleman fuel.   The regular price is over $80 so even at half price they're more than pocket change.  I kept hoping the price would go down some more, but it never did.  I finally snagged the very last one at the end of the season at 50% off, figuring it is part of my emergency preparations as well as for camping.  I pretty sure it would have been gone if I'd waited one more day or maybe even one more hour!

Lighting options continue to expand as more and more LED and solar powered lights are coming on the market.   I look for innovative variations that will expand my options and enhance my camping experience.  Solar walkway lights are handy for marking tent stakes so you don't trip over them in the dark.  I've seen some at dollar stores, making them quite cost-effective. You can also remove the stakes and had a bail or handle to hang them in your tent.  I found some solar "patio lights" at a dollar store too and they make excellent tent lights. Just be sure to take any solar lights out in the sun each day to recharge.  If you've been lucky enough to set up your tent in the shade, you may have to move your tent-stake markers out into the sun during the day to keep them charged and functioning.  Seems like I can always use and extra flashlight or camp light!

Towels, linens, and bedding for your RV are some more things that it is convenient to have extras on board.  For many years we got by with old stuff we borrowed from the house and usually only had one set on board that had to be laundered. It is really nice to be able to change towels and linens without having to do laundry.  Microfiber dish towels have recently showed up at my local Dollar Tree.  Not only are the good for drying dishes, they work really well for cleaning windows and mirrors without leaving streaks.  If you are low on towels and linens you can usually find plenty at your local thrift store.  You might have to settle for unmatched sets, but what does that matter out in the boonies?

Camping clothes usually go on sale along with other camping equipment at the end of the season. That might be a good time to stock up on jackets, sweat shirts, caps, gloves, etc.   I started buying "hunter orange" clothing when I was riding a black and orange KTM dirt bike and I still like it because it makes me visible on the trail and I don't easily confuse it with my regular stuff.   You may want to watch clearance sales at the end of different seasons for the best selections for various climates. "Windchill" clothing, good for cooler weather, will probably go on sale in the spring or summer. Light clothing suitable for summer use will probably show up in the fall or winter.  I like having warm cozy gloves for winter tasks but for summer they would be too hot and clumsy so I try to make sure I have both kinds available.   I find it convenient to keep a pair of warm gloves in the pockets of every jacket.  If its cold enough to wear a jacket, its probably cold enough for gloves and I like having gloves that match my jacket and having them readily available.  Surprisingly enough, a lot of my gloves come from Dollar Tree!

Stocking up on camping equipment and supplies is also a good way to hedge your bet for emergency preparedness.  If things go bad in your neighborhood you'll probably find your camping equipment and supplies will be your best and perhaps your only way to survive.  If you have more than you require for your immediate needs you may be able to help your family, friends and neighbors, or use the excess to barter for things you run short of.

When and where to buy.  Always be on the lookout for camping supplies whenever you go shopping, but pay special attention to seasonal sales.  Year end closeouts usually yield the best prices. Season openers will probably have the best selection and sometimes offer special introductory pricing too.  I have found farm and ranch stores and department stores like K-mart and Walmart as well as sporting goods stores to be good sources of bargains at year end.  You can usually stock up on cleaning and supplies and basic OTC medical items any time at your local dollar store.  Military surplus stores can be a good source of sturdy clothing and equipment.  I am sometimes surprised at the variety of camping stuff I often find at my regular grocery store.  I once picked up a folding picnic table with an umbrella for $25 at year end closeout at Thrifty Drug (now RiteAid). Of course, don't forget garage,  yard, and rummage sales!

Online resources are becoming more and more popular and more and more competitive.  Ebay and craiglist are good places to look for used equipment and vintage items.  Amazon has an amazing assortment of goods and, with Amazon Prime membership, you get free shipping and often next day delivery.

Keep an eye out for sales and coupons that can help you stretch your camping dollars.   Coupons can sometimes be annoying to use but appropriate use can save you lots of money.  Also watch for "double coupon" days so save even more.  Some stores, like Walmart, will honor coupons from other stores, allowing you to maximize savings while minimizing running around.  Home Depot will not only match competitor's prices, but give you an additional 10%  off.

Have fun stocking up!