Stocking Your Camp Kit

 Building a well stocked camp kit for tent camping may be a little more difficult than stocking an RV.  RVs give you places to organize your supplies and store them between uses so they're always ready to go.  Doing the same for tent camping requires a little more creativity.  Instead of cabinets, closets, and drawers like you have in an RV, you'll have to put your stuff in bins, bags, or boxes.  You'll want to find a place to keep it where it will be safe but easily accessed when you want to use it.

Properly stocking your camp kit is important for supporting spontaneous trips and so it can be useful in a disaster situation. Having basic, non-perishable supplies and equipment ready to go will make every trip easier.  You will want to organize your camping gear in a logical manner. Everything should be stored where you can get to it easily and where it is safe. Putting things in plastic tubs makes it easy to grab and go and protects your gear against moisture, insects, and vermin. I like using translucent tubs so I can kind of see what is inside, but you can label opaque containers using a Magic Marker or adhesive labels (or just masking tape) so you know what is where.  If you don't  have the budget for plastic tubs or the room to store them, duffle bags, contractor trash bags,or even ordinary cardboard boxes can be used.  If you can't see what is inside and it isn't obvious (like sleeping bags and tents) mark the outside of the container so you can find what you need when you need it.  Duct tape makes a good label to write on with a marker.  If you are worried about being able to remove it, use blue painter's tape.

It will be easier to use your stuff if like things are stored together. Put all your kitchen stuff in one or two tubs. I put big stuff like pots and pans in one and smaller things like cooking utensils, table cloths,  dishtowels, and spices in another. You might want to allocate some of your dishtowels to pad the pots and pans or other dishes too to reduce noise and minimize scratching or otherwise damaging items.

A chuck box is a good way to organize your kitchen stuff for camping.  It gives you a place to store, organize, carry, and used your kitchen items.  For maximum flexibility in creating a custom space, build your own.  If you choose to purchase a commercial version, be sure to measure your vehicle carefully to make sure it will fit.  

Food requires special consideration. You don't want to store any perishable foods in your camping tubs. But you will want to organize durable basic ingredients so they're always ready to go. Things like sugar, salt, flour, and pancake mixes can be stored in air-tight plastic containers and they should keep for many months if they weren't contaminated to begin with. Things like spices and packaged sauce mixes usually do well if they are also kept in sealed containers. You want to make sure you don't have anything exposed that will attract mice or other vermin. Our volunteer fire department found MREs on our wildlands fire truck and in storage that had been chewed on by mice and had to be disgarded. These were factory sealed foil pouches you would think wouldn't give off any scent, but the mice still went after them. Basic spices, like salt and pepper, can usually be safely stored in your camp kit in sealed plastic containers to protect them from moisture and pests.

Cleaning supplies and sundries are often overlooked until you need them.  Think about what you normally use at home and which of them will be needed in camp.  Dish soap and hand soap come immediately to mind.  Paper towels are always useful in camp.  Hand sanitizer will be useful if you have to visit a less than stellar restroom and hand lotion will relieve the suffering from a variety of camp tasks you may not be accustomed to doing like chopping wood or doing dishes by hand.  A roll of paper towels will find many, many uses in camp.  In addition to the standard cleaning tasks for which they were intended, they can be used as place mats, napkins, and handkerchiefs and as temporary covers to protect food from marauding insects.  They can even be used to clean wounds or as pressure pads to control bleeding. 

Clothing is something you may want to pack specifically for each outing rather than have a lot of stuff packed away in bins. If you do choose to have some clothing prepared, inventory it periodically to make sure it isn't damaged and that it is appropriate for the time of year. Hauling around bins full of parkas and snowsuits all summer will be a waste of space and energy. Having your favorite bikinis or speedos tucked away on winter outings probably won't be very helpful even if they don't take up a lot of room.  Not very many of us pursue 'polar bear' dipping in frozen waters.  BTW, regardless of how cold the air may be, fresh water, in liquid form, will never be less than 32°F.  Anyplace (like a canteen or drinking glass) that contains both ice and water will be exactly 32°F.  Since salt water freezes at a lower temperature than fresh water, salt water could be colder than 32°.  The actual freezing point depends on how much salt is in the water.  If it is fully saturated (has as much salt as possible, about 23.3%) the freezing point is around -69°F.

Camping gear should be clean, dry, in good repair, and well organized in storage. Try to keep like things together. Put all your tents and canopies on one shelf, hang sleeping bags to air out, store lanterns together, keep stoves and BBQs in a similar place. Remember to store your fuel safely. It isn't a good idea to store propane cylinders or gas cans in your living space or anyplace (like a garage, attic, or basement) connected to your living space. Miscellaneous supplies, like backpack pins, cord locks, lantern mantles, sewing kits, tent repair kits, etc. should be among your basic provisions and should be well organized and labeled so you can find them easily.  I like to stock up on these items before hand so I always have them on hand when needed.  I once paid something like $1.50 for two cord locks at a sporting goods stores when I needed them right away for a trip, then I was able to buy 50 of them on ebay for a few bucks.  Watch for mangers specials, closeouts, and end of season sales to get the most bang for your buck.

First aid kits should be kept up to date. I suggest you have a personal size pocket first aid kit for each member of your family or group and a larger group first aid kit for more serious injuries. From time to time I've found pocket first aid kits at Dollar Tree, so they don't have to be expensive.  Check the condition of adhesives on bandaids and adhesive tape. As it gets old it either dries out and no longer sticks at all or it gets slimy and lets the bandage slip all over the place. Some medications may show signs of deterioration. Liquids may change color or consistency, tablets may flake or get powdery. Aspirin gives off a strong vinegar smell when it gets old. Keep your medications up to date and make sure you replenish anything you use before your next trip. If you do a lot of hiking, moleskin is good to have in your kit to prevent and treat blisters.

Canteens, water bottles, and hydration packs should be cleaned and sanitized, then stored where they won't get dirt or bugs in them. Putting them in large Ziplock bags or sealable plastic storage containers will help.  Let them dry thoroughly before sealing them up.

Camp tools should be clean, well maintained, and conveniently organized. Axes and hatches should be sharp and the blades covered or protected. Protecting the blades is as much for your protection as for the sharpened edge.  An exposed blade can be a hazard and may be dulled by rubbing on things in transit.  Metal parts should be lightly oiled to prevent rust.  Shovel handles and other wooden handles should be smooth and kept oiled using linseed oil to avoid splinters. Hammers and other tools should be clean and free of rust. Handles that have dried out and gotten rough should be sanded and oiled.  BBQ tools should be clean. Any residual food or grease may attract insects or vermin or turn rancid and affect the flavor of your meal the next time you use them.

Periodically examine your camp kits and eliminate items you don't use. You may have things you brought along for a specific purpose for one specific outing that are just taking up valuable space on other ventures if no longer needed. You may have thought something would be useful but never got around to using it. If you aren't using it, take it out. The only exception to this rule is emergency supplies. By their very nature, emergency supplies are things you (hopefully) don't need very often, but will be essential in an emergency situation. Every unnecessary item you take out gives you that much more room for useful and essential items.

Build up your supplies over time to save money.   Unless you have an urgent and immediate need, make and prioritize a list, then watch for good deals on the things you need.  Check out garage sales and thrift stores and online sites like ebay and craigslist for durable goods and watch for sales on other items.   You local "dollar store" can be a treasure trove for cleaning supplies, sundries, OTC medications, and kitchen utensils.  I've even found hats, gloves, socks, t-shirts, and sunglasses there.  Try adding just one camping item to your regular shopping each week.  It usually won't add much to your expenditures, but over time you'll build up stock to sustain your outdoor activities.

Get it together!

Kitchen Utensils for Camping

You probably haven't given much thought to choosing kitchen utensils for camping.  And that's OK.  Most people have enough experience in the kitchen to know that they're going to need and just duplicate that, or as much as they think they'll need for camping.  However, there are some choices for camping that work better than what you normally use at home and having dedicated utensils for camping will make loading and unloading for each trip easier.  What you take with you may depend partially on whether you're in an RV or are tent camping.  If you're in an RV, you probably want to maintain a pretty well stocked kitchen, similar to what you have at home.   However, you may have space limitations.  If you're tent camping, you may need to limit the amount of stuff you have to carry around.   Even in an RV your drawer space will probably be a lot smaller than at home so you may want to downsize some items and seek multi-use tools to reduce how many things you have to sort through when you need something.  You probably won't need everything you have at home.  Your menus will, to some extent, dictate what utensils you will need.  If you stick to a simple menu, you should be good to go with basic utensils. Another factor is the potential to be cooking on a campfire.  For campfire cooking you will not only need fire resistant utensils, but you will probably want ones with extra long handles for  safety and comfort.  Plastic utensils that work just fine at home and may even be preferred for non-stick pans may not be the best choice for campfire cooking.

The biggest difference will be the need for durability and resistance to fire.  The plastic utensils we favor to protect our Teflon cookware at home may not hold up to the rigors of camp cooking, especially if you're cooking on the campfire.   Camping also brings frequent distractions and plastic utensils left in the pan may quickly begin to melt.  I prefer solid stainless steel utensils, but steel items with wooden or heat-resistant plastic or wood handles usually work well, are sometimes less expensive, and last a long time if you keep the handles away from flames.   Stainless steel items can get hot so you might need gloves or hotpads.  Old-fashioned porcelain covered "speckleware" has a nice pioneer ambiance and works well for camping.   I have a meat fork, serving spoon, and ladle in "speckleware" or "graniteware".   I also have a set of speckleware soup spoons that are fun to use.  For really heavy duty stainless steel utensils, check out a restaurant supply store. However, you probably don't need to invest that much.   I've used the ones I bought at my local "dollar" store for decades without any problems.   The only issue I've had, is my wife liked my ladle so well she commandeered it for the home kitchen and I had to find another one.

Which utensils you need will ultimately depend on your menus and cooking style, but here are some basics most everyone will find useful:

      * cooking/serving spoons (I suggest at least 2)
      * slotted spoon
      * meat fork
      * spatulas (again I suggest having 2)
      * ladle
      * paring knife
      * small and medium butcher knives
      * dish towels and/or paper towels

 If you are into basting, you'll need a baster and/or a basting brush.  I would get a plastic baster rather than a glass one since it is less fragile and less likely to break rattling around on the road.  If you like spaghetti or pasta, a claw-style spaghetti spoon is good to have.   You'll need some cutlery too. I like to have at least a couple of different sized butcher knives, a bread knife, and a paring knife or two. Having sharp instruments rattling around in the kitchen drawers dulls them and makes retrieving anything from the drawers dangerous so I like to keep them in one of the wood-block knife holders on the counter or in a cupboard and secure it with Velcro or small bungee cords.  Another good way to keep them safe and handy is to store them on a magnetic knife rack.  Or you can put protect each one in its individual PVC pipe container.  Cut a section of PVC pipe  a bit longer than the knife from pipe with an inside diameter big enough to accommodate the widest part of the blade and/or handle.  Then cap it on both ends with PVC pipe caps, but don't glue them on!  Then mark the pipe using a permanent marker so you know exactly what is inside (3" paring knife, 5" butcher knife, etc.).  The only problem with this solution is it takes up more room in the drawer.

Make sure you have can and bottle openers.   I once arrived in camp many miles from home and didn't realize until I started to fix some canned chili for dinner that I didn't have a can opener on board.   Now I make sure I have manual can opener in my motorhome, in my truck camper, and in my tent camping tub.   And I carry a supply of Army "P-38" or "P-51"can openers.  They are small and sometimes difficult to use, but they are better than trying to open a can with a pocket knife.  P-38 and P-51 can openers are especially convenient for hiking and back packing but are a handy addition to any camp kit.  They take up almost no room.  P-38s are about 1 1/2" x 1/2".The P-51s are larger, giving  you a bit more leverage.  Either one can be carried on a key ring with your keys but I found the sharp edge sometimes cut my pockets.

Measuring cups have many uses in camp.  Most sets stack within themselves so they take up little room but collapsible measure cups are even more compact.  They can even be hung on the inside of an RV or chuck box cabinet door for convenient access without taking up much usable space.

An item I've seen promoted as the best kitchen utensil ever for RV use is a pot strainer.   This is a flat, crescent shaped strainer with a handle that you can use on just about any pot or pan, eliminating the need for a collander or bulky strainer.  Would be really handy if you cook a lot of pasta.

Having dedicated utensils for camping adds convenience and helps reduce the possibility of forgetting something you need.  I have a Class A motorhome, a truck camper, and a tent camping setup and I keep all three stocked separately so I'll have what I need when I need it without having to remember to transfer things for each outing.  My RV and camper stuff is conveniently stored in the galley cabinets and drawers.  Our sailboat has its own sliding galley made from a chuck box that we keep fully stocked.  Tent camping utensils reside in a translucent plastic tubs that are easy to transport to the campsite and keeps things clean and sanitary in camp and between trips.  I know for sure from experience that if I have to switch things around for each trip, I will forget something!

Don't let these recommendations keep you from camping with what you have on hand.  If dedicated utensils for camping aren't in your budget yet or you don't have time to get them before your trip, borrow from your kitchen and hit the road.   Just be careful that you don't destroy or lose your home utensils in camp.  When you are ready to buy a set of utensils dedicated to camping, check our your local dollar store or thrift store before spending lots of money in department or restaurant supply stores.   That way, if something does get lost or destroyed, you're not out a lot of money and can easily replace it.  Sometimes it makes sense to upgrade your home cookware and re-purpose the old stuff for camping.  Also, before you head to the store, be sure to check out what you have on hand.  If you have duplicates you can spare or some old stuff you were saving to give to charity, you may be able to fill your camping needs without spending any money.  If painted handles have worn you can easily sand them down and repaint them to give them new life in your camp kit.  That way you can even make a matching set out of a bunch of odds and ends.  Using a unique color will also help you keep track of your stuff in camp and avoid getting them confused with other people's stuff or with the stuff you use at home.

Camp cooking is fun!

Options for Powered Tent Camping

When I was growing up, the gasoline powered Coleman stove and Coleman lantern were the top of the line equipment for tent camping. Most of us cooked on the campfire and used flashlights, candles or kerosene lanterns for light. Kerosene lanterns were -- and still are -- generally less expensive and many people in my rural neighborhood used kerosene for several purposes around their ranches or farms so fuel was readily available.  Tents were mostly bulky canvas things with heavy wooden poles.  I envied the more affluent campers who brought white gas powered Coleman lanterns that produced a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb. The kerosene lanterns produced a modest orange-yellowish light that seemed (and is) dim and inferior by comparison. Some folks still use kerosene lanterns, mostly for nostalgic reasons, and they are still a viable and economical option. If you don't like the smell, run them on liquid paraffin, which is odorless, or scented lamp oil. Citronella oil helps repel insects. There is a nostalgic feeling that comes with campfire cooking, but a good camp stove gives you far greater control, is a lot easier to u use, and is ready much faster. Few of us have the patience to wait for a campfire to burn down to coals that are best for cooking, which is one reason so many marshmallows go up in flames! Camp stoves are usually less likely to be affected by fire restrictions.  Tents have come a long way.  A large family can be quite in a surprisingly light weight nylon dome tent.

Today there are many options for light and cooking, plus tent heaters and even portable hot water systems to add convenience and comfort to our outings. Portable generators, having become smaller, quieter, and less expensive, are also becoming more popular, allowing tent campers to enjoy electronic entertainment systems and small appliances previously only available to RVers. Many portable generators are fairly light weight and easy to transport. They are very quiet and quite fuel efficient. If you have room for them they make a good addition to a truck camper, small travel trailer, or tent camping gear.

Camp stoves. Where once the legendary Coleman gas stove dominated the scene there are now many options to choose from. Coleman has added propane powered stoves in both the 2-burner and 3-burner sizes in addition to their traditional gasoline models. There are advantages to each fuel. Propane doesn't spill. Gasoline is usually cheaper, especially if you have a dual-fuel stove that will run on ordinary unleaded gas in addition to "Coleman Fuel" or white gas. Such a stove would be a good candidate for emergency preparedness since you could siphon fuel from your vehicle if necessary. For tent camping, backpacking, or anytime space is limited, there are single-burner butane powered stoves, the camping equivalent of a "hot plate". They are compact and light weight but require special fuel cylinders about the size and shape of a can of shaving cream. The small size and relatively high cost of these fuel cylinders make them more expensive to operate and require more frequent changing of fuel cylinders than propane-powered units. There are some small single-burner propane stoves, sometimes called "grasshoppers" because of their silhouette. They usually run on the small, 1-lb propane cylinders. Extremely light weight backpacker stoves are also available. They usually run on small butane canisters and take up little space in your pack. They are suitable for preparing single servings. It would take a long time to cook a meal for a family of 4 using one of these. There are conveniently sized butane powered stoves that come in a plastic case about the same size as cordless electric drill case.  The are handy for fixing meals or hot drinks for one or two people.  For larger groups, Camp Chef offers a variety of larger propane-powered stoves with a delightful set of options including grills, griddles, and a BBQ box. These tend to be a little bulky and heavy if you have far to carry them so they're best used in car-camping or to supplement the RV lifestyle. They are especially useful if you have to prepare large quantities to feed a group. The size and BTU ratings allow you to use full-size stock pots that would overwhelm ordinary camp stoves or be difficult to manage on a campfire.  Another fairly recent addition are propane powered residential styled stoves like this one from Coleman, that look and function much like a gas range at home.  The are smaller, but have 2 or 3 burners on top and a fully functional (if a little small) oven.  They're quite a bit more expensive than the traditional camp stoves, but offer more familiarity and convenience.  They run around $250 new but I've seen used ones on ebay for as little as $100.

Tent heaters. For years the gasoline-powered Coleman infra-red heater was the standard for tent heaters.

I used one of these to heat an enclosed motorcycle heater for several years until I installed a propane furnace out of a wrecked camper. One downside is you have to plan ahead to get them going outdoors for about an hour before bringing them into the area to be heated. The style I had required you to hold it up-side-down until a dollar-size spot of wet fuel showed on the fabric dome. Then light it and wait several minutes for the flames to die down. Once the flames died down the heater could be moved inside the trailer or tent. The dome usually gave off a faint red glow when it was working.  You may have to search ebay or other online sites for "vintage coleman tent  heater" to find one for sale.  More modern, propane powered catalytic heaters are easier to ignite and use but while catalytic heaters do not give off smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen so they MUST be used with adequate ventilation. Even seasoned campers have been known to lose their lives when they forgot to leave a window open when using a tent heater. Military style tent stoves sometimes used gasoline or used motor oil or wood as fuel. You might still get your hands on one of these at a garage sale or army surplus outlet. They are usually rather heavy and bulky and can be dangerous to use if you are not familiar with their operation and follow instructions precisely. These types of stoves do give off smoke and toxic fumes and require a chimney to the outside, which presents its own hazards. The area where the stovepipe passes through the tent fabric to the outside must be fireproof. Large tent heaters are only practical in base camps where you don't have to carry them far from your vehicle. Some of the smaller propane-powered catalytic heaters might be light enough to carry in your back pack.

Illumination. The venerable Coleman lantern is still a standard fixture for most campers. Propane versions avoid the dangers of spilling liquid fuel and eliminate the need to periodically pump up the fuel pressure, but you can't easily refill them if you run out of fuel. However, they share the vulnerability of the gas lanterns in the use of silk mantles that are burned to ash to be used and are very delicate. If you are using a lantern that needs mantles, always bring a pack of a half dozen or so for a weekend outing. Your lantern will be useless without them. Battery and solar powered lanterns are becoming more popular as battery technology provides longer life and higher power and LED bulbs reduce power requirements. Battery powered lanterns eliminate the fire hazard often associated with gas or propane lanterns and therefore are ideal options in tents. However, gas and propane lanterns are also a source of heat that is sacrificed if you use battery lights. Some battery powered lanterns include remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag, a very nice feature on cold nights. Some are rechargeable and can be recharged from an ordinary 120 volt AC power source or from the cigarette lighter style power receptacle in your vehicle. Some have built-in solar chargers so you can charge your lantern for free during the day and have it ready to use at night. Some use ordinary "D" or "C" cell or big square 6-volt batteries so you can just bring along plenty of spares and you'll be in good shape. The most efficient versions use LEDs instead of energy-hogging incandescent bulbs.

Larger propane cylinders can be refilled at propane sellers.  The smaller ones normally used in lanterns are usually just tossed and replaced but you can but an adapter that lets you refill them from a bulk propane cylinder, like the one used for your BBQ.  The easiest way to deal with running out of propane is to carry plenty of spare cylinders.  Stock up on them when you find them on sale.

Portable hot water heaters. These days you can buy portable hot water systems you can take tent camping. They are propane powered and usually provide enough hot water for 1-2 showers. They are too big and heavy to consider for back-packing, but if you are car-camping, they might be a nice addition. Bring along a shower enclosure and you can have an almost residential-style shower anywhere. These can be nice additions to any RV that is lacking shower facilities or if you have so many people you overwhelm the hot water heater as well as serving tent campers. Sunshowers are solar-heated bags that rely only on sun to heat the water and on gravity to feed the shower head to they are environmentally friendly and economical to use. Simply fill the bag with water, let it lie in the sun for a while. Putting in the hood or roof or your vehicle or laying it directly on hot blacktop are good options. When it has been heated to the desired temperature, simple hang it from a tree, canopy, or any convenient location. Here again,  use a portable shower enclosure for privacy.

Electricity in camp was once almost the exclusive prerogative of large motorhomes. Even few travel trailers had on-board generators in "the old days". Today many travel trailers come with generators as options or sometimes standard equipment and many more owners bring along portable units. Many portable units are also suitable for car-camping in a tent. Large motorhomes and trailers need 4000 watts or so to power roof air conditioners. Smaller units are less expensive, quieter, are easier to transport, and are more fuel efficient while providing adequate power for most camp use -- TVs, laptops, battery chargers, simple kitchen appliances like mixers and blenders, and even microwaves. Come night time, they can be used to run electric lights to illuminate your camp site as well as power entertainment systems. Modern portable generators are light weight and quiet, lending themselves well to tent camping. In a pinch you might also run a small electric heater in your tent.  Just be sure to keep away from the walls or anything else combustible.  Or hook up your electric blanket!

Portable refrigerators. Motorhomes and travel trailers usually have propane powered refrigerators that provide performance that nearly matches that of your residential unit. Tent camping has traditionally been limited to using ice chests to preserve perishable foods and keep our drinks cold. Today there are ice chests that use theromelectric technology that can either heat or cool the chest. Most of these units run on 12-volt DC power and can be plugged into any cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle. Long haul truckers often use these to good advantage on the road but they can also be used in camping and avoid frequent trips to the camp store for more ice. As with an RV refrigerator, turn it on a day or two before your planned departure to get it cooled and ready to use. Keep an eye on the charge level of your batteries so you don't run down your starting battery keeping your beer cold! And periodically check the function switch to be sure it hasn't accidentally been turned from "COOL" to "WARM".

Solar and wind power. Solar panels are slowly becoming more affordable and more portable. A small solar panel for helping maintain battery charge in storage is available at automotive supply stores for under $20. You plug it into your cigarette lighter and leave it on the dashboard to provide a trickle charge to help maintain batteries during storage. These little units aren't enough to recharge depleted batteries or meet the demands in camp. Larger units are available, with enough power to run TVs and laptops, but they are still quite expensive and fairly bulky. I've seen some innovative campers set up wind generators. I haven't tried this so I can't attest to the effectiveness, but it might be worth looking into. Commercial wind generators can be quite expensive. I've seen home-made ones that use an automotive alternator that may be able to provide enough power to maintain the charge on a couple of 12-volt deep cycle batteries -- if you get enough breeze. The trick is building and then transporting the blades and support tower. The tower must be tall enough to reach the wind, sturdy enough to withstand the wind and the vibration of the alternator, and yet be light enough and able to be dismantled for transport. Plans for such home-made wind generators can be found on the Internet. Personally I would think a home-made wind generator would be better suited for a mountain cabin or emergency retreat than for tent or even RV camping.  Solar panels can be mounted on RV roofs or set up externally outside a tent or RV making them quite convenient.  Initial cost and installation is bit pricey, but once installed or set up in camp you get your energy from the sun for free!

Tent cooling. I've yet to see a practical air conditioner for tent camping, but there are plenty of battery-powered fans that can help evacuate heat from tents and provide a comfortable breeze to improve personal comfort. I have seen people spray the window screens with mist or even hang wet towels near windows to create a kind of rudimentary evaporative cooling system. If you want to try either of these techniques, take care not to let the mist or wet towels drip on your sleeping bag, clothing, or gear, or create puddles on the floor of the tent. Use your rain fly, if your tent has one, or add a tarp over the top of your tent to shade it from direct sunlight to help keep it cooler. Or just set it up where it will be shaded most of the day.  I did see plans for a tent air conditioner  Basically it is a foam ice chest, a battery powered fan, and a LOT of ice.  I don't know how well it would work and you would need a continuous supply of ice to keep it going.  I have tried small battery powered cooling units (about the size of a softball) that use specially frozen cold packs or just evaporative cooling pads and found they didn't put out enough air to be very helpful.  They might work as personal cooling systems to cool your face but they're too small to cool very much space in a tent or RV.

Power up!

Camp Dinnerware

Camp dinnerware?  Yeah, right!   As if there is anything really to be said about it.  Well, actually, there is.  My all time favorite is paper plates, bowls, and cups.   I hate doing dishes when camping, either in my RV or in a tent.  While some eco-freaks will complain about the waste of natural resources, it isn't really as bad as they like to make it seem.  Using paper does consume some renewable resources, but consider the eco-impact of manufacturing, warehousing, shipping, and selling permanent dishes along with heating water and making and using detergents and disposing of the waste water.   The overall ecological footprint of disposable goods is actually rather favorable -- and it's more convenient and saves time, which are both significant advantages when camping .   A few years ago we had an eco-freak where I worked who was boycotting styrofoam cups and campaigning mightily for management to discontinue using them at the coffee machine -- until someone posted an article that described -- in accurate scientific detail -- the eco-impact of paper cups versus styrofoam.   While styrofoam cups are slow to deteriorate in land fills, it's manufacture and use has a LOT less impact on the environment and smaller overall carbon footprint than paper cups.  Net result: styrofoam wins!  Using disposable items is not frivolous or irresponsible.  It adds a great deal of convenience and saves a lot of time when camping, conserves propane and water, and reduces filling holding tanks,.

There may be times when paper plates won't cut it.  Sometimes they're too flimsy for hot, heavy foods like steaks and baked potatoes or maybe you just feel like being a little fancier.   Buffet style potluck dinners may demand larger and sturdier items. Y ou may be able to solve the flimsy problem by using plastic or wicker paper plate holders.  I like the plastic ones that have a built in groove on the bottom that grips the rim of a soda can, making the can a convenient handle to hold the plate and keep track of my drink.   The brand is Loc-a-plate but I think they are no longer being manufactured.  If  you happen to come on some anywhere, snag them up while you can!  My favorite permanent camp dinnerware is the blue enameled "speckleware" or graniteware.  It adds a kind of pioneer or Old West ambiance and it is easy to clean and pretty darn sturdy.  If you want REALLY sturdy, go for stainless steel plates or even cafeteria trays.  We've tried both stainless steel and plastic cafeteria trays.  I like the stainless steel ones best -- they're stronger and don't flex or break.  The cafeteria trays are especially handy for potluck dinners and make a good platform for eating around the campfire.   Resting a wide tray on your lap is a lot easier than balancing a skinny plate.   Again, they are easy to clean and practically indestructable.  I have cups and bowls to match both my speckleware and stainless steel plates and trays.  A speckleware coffee pot is a good way to heat water on the campfire for hot beverages.

Fancy dinnerware usually isn't necessary or even desirable for camping activities, but you may have a special occasion now like an anniversary or special birthday when you want to dress things up a bit.   China plates, bowls, and cups may not survive the vibration and bouncing in RV cupboards or tent camping transport tubs without special packing. Variations of plastic or Melmac dinnerware can be quite attractive and aren't as heavy or as+ fragile as china. Personally, I'll stick with my favorite speckleware or stainless steel dinnerware, but I do have some fancy acrylic glasses that can really dress up a table when wanted and yet are nearly unbreakable.  Some of them look almost as good as real crystal, even though they lack the resonance.  And, compared to paper cups, they're down right elegant!

Disposable plastic flatware also helps avoid the need for doing dishes.   If you want dressy stuff for a special occasion, there are really nice clear plastic and even shiny silver versions that are almost as nice as sterling silver, but for everyday use, ordinary plastic is cheaper and just as functional.  Even so, I do keep a set of stainless steel flatware in my RV in case I run out of plastic or want something sturdier for a nice steak dinner.  I find plastic flatware totally inadequate for steaks.  Of course, there are different grades (and prices) of plasticware.  I've seen forks so flimsy they melt when used on anything hot enough to eat but they're OK for baked beans, potato salad, and cake and ice cream at picnics.

Regardless of what kind of dinnerware you choose, you only need to bring along as much as you need for the number of people on that trip.   No sense hauling around complete service for 8 when there is only two of you.  When we camped regularly with 6 kids the service for 8 was necessary but now that we're retired, 3/4 of that stuff can stay at home most of the time, reducing weight and freeing up valuable space.

Paper table cloths, especially red and white checkered ones, are traditional on picnic tables.  For a fancier dinner, use a lacy white paper or plastic table covering.  Real cloth table cloths take up a lot of room and have to be taken home and laundered.  Paper or plastic create an attractive, sanitary surface and can be disposed of after use.  Plastic coated table cloths provide an easy to clean surface that invites multiple uses.  Table cloths tend to blow up or even blow away when the breeze kicks up.  Pick up a set of table cloth clamps or table cloth weights to secure your table cloth -- or make sure it is anchored by ice chests and "Round-a-bouts" or rocks.

Of course, if you REALLY want real china, crystal, and sterling silver for a special event, go ahead.   Just take appropriate precautions packing it to survive the bumpy ride and allow enough time to wash it properly and re-pack it when you're done using it.  You might even use real cloth table cloths and napkins to pack and pad the fragile items.  Hey, you could even bring along some silver candlesticks to highlight the meal and add a romantic touch for special occasions.  You might recall the elegant setting in the movie Hildalgo when the English lady invites Frank to tea in her tent.   It rivaled service in any royal court.   Of course she had servants to do all the heavy lifting.

Serving.  At home you probably don't serve your meals right out of the pan, but when camping that makes perfect sense -- takes less time and there are fewer dishes to do.  Condiments are most convenient served right out of the original containers.  Lest you think that is too crass, that's the way they were served at Hearst Castle in its hay day entertaining high level politicians and celebrities. Have your dinner guests bring their plates to the camp fire or BBQ for their burgers or steaks instead of dirtying an extra plate just to bring them to the table.  I like over-sized serving spoons.  I found some speckleware serving spoons and forks I like to use.  Of course, stainless steel utensils are sturdy and easy to clean and are ideal for camp use.   Plastic versions may be less expensive, but might melt if used around the campfire and they don't stand up to the rather rambunctious use they often get around camp.  You can usually find both plastic and stainless steel utensils at your local dollar store so they don't have to be expensive.  Of course you can get professional grade utensils at a restaurant supply store that will most likely last forever -- if you don't lose them.   Really nice ones sometimes have a tendency to be "acquired" by envious campers.   I've found the dollar store versions quite adequate for camping and they're inexpensive to replace if they get lost or damaged..

Glassware is often too fragile for camping, but there are lots of acrylic and plastic options that are quite attractive and will survive travel better.  You can also serve soft drinks and other beverages right out of the can or bottle, unless you need or prefer them over ice.   Then you might use paper or plastic cups, which are convenient and save water and time you would spend washing permanent items.  If you prefer something sturdier, plastic tumblers are lighter weight and less fragile than glass.  Porcelain cups are often preferred for hot beverage, but again, they are fairly breakable.  If you must use porcelain cups, be sure to store them safely where the sometimes violent maneuvers of travel won't break them.  Stainless steel, tin, or enameled cups are sturdy and stand up better to the rigors of camping while adding a pioneer ambiance.  They are sturdy and are easy to clean and store.

Sometimes you can avoid using any dinnerware at all.   Simple hot dogs can be cooked over the campfire on a stick or wire coat hanger then slipped directly into a bun and garnished with your favorite condiments with out dirtying a single plate.  Pre-packaged meals, like MREs and TV dinners, can be eaten directly from the disposable containers they come in which can then be disposed of in the trash or the campfire.

Some camp cook sets include plates, bowls, and cups.  The plastic plates and cups are usually kind of light weight, sometimes even bordering on flimsy, but they are convenient and get the job done.  These camp cook sets can conserve weight and space in your RV or camp set.  They are usually designed so everything stacks together for storage and transport and usually come in a carry bag.

Military mess kits are designed for field use and so are ideal for camping.  Boy Scout and other camp mess kits are usually lighter weight and less durable but quite convenient, functional, and reasonably priced.  You can get mess kits at military surplus stores and in most camping departments.  A one-person mess kit is usually well under $10.   Military kits are usually made of stainless steel while camping kits are often made of aluminum.   The stainless steel will hold up better but will be heavier if you are back packing or have to carry it very far.

The right dinnerware will be fun and easy to use, durable, and easy to clean and store.   It may even be festive, like the cowboy themed enameled set I inherited from my Grandfather.

Eat up!

Remote or Primitive Tent Camping

Tent camping offers opportunities to REALLY get "off the grid".  You can start by car camping in remote or primitive campgrounds.  If you really want to get away from it all, try back packing, hiking in, or horse camping.   Remote camping lets you experience nature in ways you cannot in developed areas.  The proximity of other campers in campgrounds often disturbs the peace and tranquility you might be seeking.   Light pollution is another problem in many developed campgrounds.  Light from offices, camp stores, street and parking lot lighting, nearby communities, and other camp sites can inhibit your view of the stars.  It is surprising how far the glow from city lights will extend into the surrounding countryside, especially when the sky is overcast so it reflects off the clouds.  Getting out into raw country minimizes these problems.  Unless you depend on getting your water from the campground and prefer even smelly pit toilets to digging your own latrines, tent campers have no need to be tied to developed campgrounds.

Primitive car camping is a good way to start remote camping.  You may choose remote Forest Service campgrounds or even seek out open camping areas on completely unimproved BLM and Forest Service lands.  The biggest difference between really boondocking in a tent and staying in a primitive campground is that most campgrounds have a source of water and at least pit toilets, if not flush toilets or even complete restrooms with showers.  When really roughing it in undeveloped, open camping areas, you'll have to bring along all your own water and may have to dig your own latrines. Developed campgrounds usually have fire rings or fire pits for your use at each designated camp site. In an undeveloped area you may have to build your own fire pit.   If you are camping in an area where others have camped before, take advantage of any fire pit that may already exist.   If you have to build your own, do it right.   Clear the ground where you're going to build your fire and at least 5' all around it of any combustible material.   Create a ring of rocks or dig a hole and make a berm around it to contain your fire.  In some popular primitive camping areas you may find rock fire pits left behind by previous campers.   Try to take advantage of these whenever you can.  It will save you time and effort and reduce your impact on the environment.  If you are creating a new fire pit, make sure it is far enough way from trees and bushes to be safe -- and that there will be room for you and your companions to move safely around the fire.   Build it downwind from your tent and vehicles so blowing sparks don't create a fire hazard.  Be sure to observe all fire safety practices.  Check on fire conditions BEFORE you build any fire in a remote location.  Be sure to check on whether there are any fire restrictions in effect.   Open fires except in approved fire pits are often prohibited during fire season.  When you go completely off grid you'll have to provide for your own sanitation needs.  That usually means digging a latrine but some campers prefer to bring along a folding portable toilet.  It makes "going" more comfortable but you have to deal with disposing of the waste collected in plastic bags.

You may be able to drive right to a remote campsite in some forest service and BLM areas.   That may give you the best combination of getting away from civilization but not having to pack a lot of equipment very far on your own back.   Some forest service campgrounds provide fairly good privacy and separation from other camp sites.   In places like that you can have the best of both worlds -- a primitive camping experience but still have access to safe potable water and maybe pit or even flush toilets.

In most primitive camping areas you'll have to deal with rocks, twigs, and other debris that could damage your tent floor or interfere with a good night's sleep.  With that in mind,it is a good idea to bring a small, collapsible rake so you can clear your spot before you set up your tent.  Using a site that has been used before may give you a spot where someone else has already cleared the debris.

For the utlimate natural experience, back packing combines hiking and camping and gives you really good chance to practice your survival skills.  For back packing you'll need light weight gear -- tent, sleeping bag and a single-burner back-packing stove.   You can forgo the stove if you can do all your cooking on a campfire. Fire restrictions may prohibit open fires, so be sure to check with the local ranger before you hit the trail.  You will want to pack some extra clothes in case you get caught in a sudden storm and what you're wearing gets wet.  It is also nice to have something to wear while you rinse out the clothes you've been hiking in for days before they take on a life of their own.  Dehydrated meals are compact, light weight, and easy to prepare on the trail, but they are somewhat expensive.   Military "MREs" (Meals Ready to Eat) are also popular choices but can also be kind of pricey and a little heavy and bulky to carry.  If you'll be hiking in an area with lakes or streams you might be able to catch your dinner.  Unless you are really good at foraging or fishing you'll need to bring along enough food for your entire trip.  Energy bars are sometimes adequate for lunches and can give you a much needed afternoon boost from time to time.  When planning a back packing trip, be sure to do your homework. Know your routes.  Carefully plan your menus and calculate your water needs.  Unless there is proven safe potable water along the trail you'll have to find a way to carry all you need with you or be prepared to purify available water along the way.

Horse camping offers a chance to explore a cowboy experience.   Horse camping can give you greater range than back packing and you can usually take more food and equipment along, especially if you have a pack horse.  Cowboys got by with what they carried on their saddles, usually a canteen, a bedroll, and what would fit in their saddle bags.  A cowboy bedroll is a canvas enclosed sleeping cocoon.   The canvas protects you from ground moisture and from rain.   Cowboys usually didn't carry tents, but you can always tuck a back packing tent into your bedroll or saddle bags or carry a larger tent on a pack horse.  There are detailed instructions on the Internet for making your own cowboy bedroll or you an buy one for around $100.  Depending on availability of pasture for your horses along the trail you may need to carry feed for them as well.  You will need to provide a way to keep them from wandering off when you camp.  Hobbles will restrict how quickly they can move. Some trail systems that cater to horse back riders have corrals along the way or you might make your own from fallen timber or even just rope.  A common way of tethering horses is a "high line" -- a rope to which horses are tethered with a long enough lead to allow them to graze.   A battery-powered electric fence is also a modern option.  For a true cowboy experience, plan on doing all your cooking on the campfire.   For more convenience, bring along a back packing stove.  If you have an extra horse and a pack saddle, you may be able to bring along a little more equipment and creature comforts than you could carry in your saddle bags.

Camp OUT!

Getting Started Camping or RVing

Knowing where to start is the first step toward becoming a camper or an RVer.  Of course, the very first choice is whether you want to try camping in some form at all.  Then you'll need to decide whether to begin tent camping or look for an RV right away.   No one can tell you which way to go. That decision depends on your personal preferences and your current circumstances.  Budget is often a significant factor for newcomers.  With that in mind, tent camping is usually the least expensive way to start.   And much of the equipment you acquire for tent camping can be used later on if/when you graduate to some kind of RV.  However, any physical or medical constraints might limit your tent camping options.  Some ailments do not respond well to setting up tents and sleeping on the ground.   With careful shopping for a used RV can get you a real bargain.  Truck campers, camping trailers, and tent trailers can often be obtained for a few hundred dollars to get you started.  RVs of all kinds are available as rentals so you should be able to easily find one to try out for a weekend or two before spending money on your own unit.  Car camping is a good way to get started.   If you have a pickup or SUV you can probably get a tent that fits your vehicle -- or just sleep in the back of your truck or SUV.  If you think you might like RVing, consider renting or borrowing an RV of the type you are interesting in and trying it out before you dump a pile of money into an RV of your own. You can rent just about any type of RV, from tent trailers to luxury motorhomes.   Try out a few options to help you decide which is right for you.  Observe other campers each time you go out and see what they're using and what works for them.   If you find yourself envying what someone else is using, rent a similar rig for your next outing and see if its as much fun as it seems to be.   Sometimes you'll discover hidden support or maintenance tasks that out weigh the apparent benefits of expensive equipment.  Setting up and taking down that really roomy tent someone is using may be more trouble than its worth.

Camping basics.  Keep in mind pioneers, mountain men, and cowboys got by with far less than we often consider the bare minimum for today's camping adventures.   A cowboy carried everything he needed in his bedroll and saddlebags. You might consider that as a starting point, but for convenience and for health and food safety, there are some other things you might put on your initial equipment list.   Here is what I would suggest as fundamental equipment for today's campers:

    Tent or other shelter (RV?)
    Sleeping bags, bedroll,or RV bedding
    Ice chest or RV refrigerator
   Camp stove or portable BBQ
    Lantern/flashlight
    First aid kit
    Knife
    Axe or hatchet
    Matches/lighter

To this you will probably want to add some cleaning supplies for washing you and your dishes and some toilet paper.  Paper towels are another fundamental asset.   Later on you may want to add camp chairs and other conveniences, like an umbrella or dining fly for shade.  Much of what you will find desirable will become obvious as you get some outings under your belt -- and see what makes things nicer for other campers.

The size and style of tent will depend on how many people you need to shelter and what kind of activities you will be engaged in.  A one-man backpacking tent is good for hiking and backpacking but you'll need a much larger family tent if there will be more than just one of you.  Truck and SUV tents that attach to your vehicle are often very stable and very convenient for family outings.

Sleeping bags or bedrolls are essential items for tent camping.  Proper linens and bedding or sleeping bags are needed for your RV beds.  After all, we spend at least 1/3 of our lives sleeping and a comfortable bed is essential to getting adequate rest to sustain us in our daytime activities.   Sleeping bags are more convenient and usually warmer than carrying a bunch of blankets, but a cowboy style bedroll will do the job.  You'll need a tarp at least 3' longer than you are tall and about 9' wide. Lay out your blankets so they cover the middle 1/3 of the tarp. Fold each side over to provide a waterproof top 2 layers thick.  A little of the extra length should be tucked under the foot of the bedroll.   The rest can be set up as a little canopy over your head.  With a cowboy bedroll, you don't need a tent for sleeping, but it is nice to have one for dressing and other activities.  If you have an adequate tent, just wrapping yourself up in quilts and blankets may be sufficient but eventually you'll want to get sleeping bags for added comfort and convenience.

Ice chests are needed if you carry any perishable foods.   The refrigerator in an RV is even better.   If you're backpacking and relying on dehydrated foods, you can skip the ice chest.  But for car camping, a good ice chest is needed for things like eggs, milk, meat, cheese, etc.  They can also be used to keep drinks cold to enhance their appeal on hot summer days.   An ice chest or refrigerator may be crucial if anyone in your group takes medication that has to be refrigerated.  You might need an ice chest even if you have an RV with a refrigerator.  It is a good place to store cold drinks and avoid having to open the refrigerator too often.  12-volt powered coolers give tent campers even more options.

Camp stove or portable BBQ gives you more convenience in cooking your meals but unless you run into fire restrictions you can get by cooking on a campfire.  Of course, if you have an RV, it will probably have a propane range, but you may still want a camp stove and/or BBQ for cooking outside. Cooking directly on your campfire is always an option, but you have more control over temperatures and cooking time with a stove.  Camp stoves basically come in two forms: gasoline and propane.   The gasoline models usually use white gas or Coleman camping fuel.   Using ordinary gas in a regular camp stove will destroy the generator that vaporizes the fuel.  There are dual-fuel models that will run on ordinary gasoline.  They are usually more expensive than the white gas models but the convenience and lower cost of using ordinary gasoline may make them worth the extra bucks. Gasoline powered stoves have to be pumped up to create pressure to deliver the fuel to the burners. Propane models are functionally the same but use bottled propane instead of gasoline so there isn't the spill hazard you have with liquid fuel.  Because the propane cylinders are already pressurized, propane models don't have to be pumped.  There are also some small camp stoves powered by butane cylinders.

Lanterns or flashlights are necessary to see what you're doing after dark.  The long-time camping standard is the Coleman gas lantern.   Like camp stoves, they come in both gasoline and propane versions with the same advantages and disadvantages as their matching stove counterparts.  There are also many battery powered lanterns to choose from.  For longest bulb and battery life, choose one with LED bulbs.   Ordinary incandescent bulbs use a lot of battery power and burn hot.   You can probably get by with an ordinary flashlight but lanterns are more convenient for wide-area illumination for games, after dark maintenance tasks, and preparing, serving, and eating meals. Flashlights can be purchased cheaply.  Ordinary incandescent flashlights can be found at "dollar" stores.  They aren't very heavy duty but I like to have several on hand for convenience and to lend to the grandkids or other folks who might not give proper respect and care to my good Maglites.  My teenage son once "borrowed" a brand new Maglite to explore some caves and it came back looking like it had been in a rock tumbler for about an hour.  Sure is cheaper to replace dollar store flashlights than $30 aircraft aluminum models.

First aid kits are fundamental for most camping trips.  By its very nature, camping puts you in unfamiliar circumstances where you or your companions may be injured.  Tailor your first aid kit to the type of activities you will be involved in.  Always carry basic items like Bandaids and antiseptics. I also recommend stocking common OTC pain relievers and other medications that will aid your comfort away from home such as antacids, and anti-diahreal medications.   Also make sure your first aid training is up to date.  The most complete first aid kit will be of little value if you don't know what to do with it.  After bite remedies will greatly reduce the discomfort of insect bites and reduce the chance of infection.  The main ingredient in these is ammonia.  Ordinary household ammonia can be applied to insect bites to stop the sting and itch.  You can pick up pocket sized first aid kits for a dollar or two.   A good family-sized kit will probably run you about $25 or so. I often stock up on pocket sized kits when I find them at my local dollars store.  Then I have them for the kids and grandkids or for guests to put in their fanny packs or pockets at each outing -- and to replace the ones that get used up or inevitably and inexplicably disappear.  Often is is cheaper to replace a pocket fist aid kit than it is to restock it after its been used.

You can get started camping using things you already have or can acquire cheaply.   If you don't have a tent, pick up a cheap tarp and some rope or heavy twine and create your own minimal shelter. Some warm blankets, a few kitchen items, and a flashlight will be enough for a trial run to see if you like camping at all.  You can observe fellow campers to help you decide what other items you might like to have to enhance or make your experience more comfortable and convenient. Y ou might try things our in your own backyard before adventuring into the wild.

Our first "RV" was an old Chevy Suburban.   It had no commercial conversion.   This was way before Suburbans were even classified as SUVs.  Mine was maintenance truck for a local school district in its first life.  When I bought it, it was completely empty in the back -- all it had was the front seat.  A little creative sewing and some simple curtain rods provided curtains for the all-around windows, giving some privacy and temperature control.   Bed was just a couple of air mattresses and sleeping bags.  The galley was a Coleman gasoline stove and a plastic dish pan and a 3-gallon water jug.   Food was stored in plastic ice chest.   It certainly wasn't fancy, but it beat the heck out of having to wrestle setting up a tent after dark or in the wind!  And it didn't leak when it rained or flap in the wind.  Today's vans offer an even greater potential for home-made campers.  Even without a raised roof you can at least stand up enough to get dressed inside.  A van or an SUV makes a good vehicle for "car camping" -- tent camping out of your car.  Vans and SUVs have enough room to transport large tents and other camping equipment to ensure a comfortable outing.  They also provide a safe place to store your food and equipment and a haven from severe weather.  A pickup truck with just a shell on it works well too.  For a while I had one with a "carpet kit" for my pickup shell that included a wall-to-wall 4" foam pad that made it a very comfortable place to sleep.  When folded up it made a sofa all the way across the bed against the cab.   And the fiberglass shell and waterproof seals between it and the truck ensured a weather safe environment inside.

You don't have to spend a lot of money to start camping.  Even if you decide you want some kind of RV, careful shopping can find some real bargains.  I bought an 11 1/2' self contained camper for $100!  It was 40 some years old but in good condition and everything worked.   Sometimes you can even find units offered for free.  They'll probably need more than a little TLC, but a little work might turn a freebie into a real find.   Older tent trailers and small camping trailers can also be found for a few hundred bucks or so if you shop around.   Don't settle for some smelly, rotted out piece of junk with non-working or missing appliances.   There are enough choices out there for you to land a clean, ready-to-go unit, especially in today's economy when people are getting rid of their "toys".  Of course, if you have the skills, patience, resources, and desire you may be able to snag a really good deal on a damaged or abused unit.   Just be sure you are aware of all the damage and are comfortable with what it will take (time, resources, skills, and/or money) to make the necessary repairs.   Cosmetic damage may be ugly, but as long as it doesn't affect safety or structural integrity, you can live with it for a while.  Major structural damage could be time consuming and expensive to repair, so make sure you know what you're getting in to.   Really bad odors in an RV usually indicate poor maintenance, bad plumbing, and possibly dry rot from water damage.   Besides that, they're not pleasant to be in.  I stay away from bad smelling units.  Another sign of water damage is discolored or soft spots in the floor, walls, or ceiling.  The walls of tent trailers can be expensive to replace if they are badly damaged or worn out.  If you have upholstery or sewing skills you might be able to purchase replacement material and rebuild them yourself, but it is usually not a feasible task for most of us. Sewing the canvas usually requires a heavier duty sewing machine than most people have.  You may be able to buy ready made replacement canvas for some tent trailers so that might be something to look into if you find one you like that needs canvas.  Installation of pre-sewn replacement fabric should be within the capabilities of the average do-it-yourselfer.

If you aren't sure you want to be a camper, try renting or borrowing equipment so you can check it out and get an experienced friend or neighbor to guide you on your maiden voyage.  No sense investing a bunch of money in things you won't use.  Most of us have family members, friends, or neighbors who are campers.  You may be able to tag along with them on a weekend or two, or at least get some good tips in addition to borrowing some equipment to get you started.

One last important suggestion:   find someone with experience in the type of camping  you want to do to show you the ropes and  help you out until you get comfortable with doing it on your own.  Not only will you learn a lot of significant lessons, it will be fun!

Go for it!

When Should You Go Camping, RVing or OHVing?

When should you go camping, RVing, or OHVing?  Best answer:  as often as you can!  But when is the best time to start camping, RVing, and/or OHVing? How about NOW? Some people put it off until they think they can afford it or have the time for it and by doing so may never get around to it. Some people think they need to put it off "until the kids are older".  For the most part those are not valid reasons, they're just excuses.  My suggestion is start NOW and go as often as you can. You may dream of owning and using a luxurious Class A motorhome, but it might not be in your budget yet. Begin with what your budget can handle today and make the time. You may have to spend some of your savings, but money spent can usually be replaced. Time, once spent, is gone forever! I recall hearing about a young man who, long after he had left home, fondly remembered the vacations his family had taken together. He recalled that for most of his growing up years they had been trying to save money to add a second bathroom to their small house, but kept spending the building fund on family vacations. It is doubtful that he would have recalled the second bathroom with the same fond memories he had of family vacations. What if NOW is the dead of winter? Snow camping IS an option for some people but for those who aren't ready for that particular experience you can start researching, acquiring and preparing your gear, equipment, skills, and training.

What seasons are best for camping? You can camp in all seasons, but most people don't do a lot of camping in winter. In some areas, extremely hot summers may also be a deterrent to outdoor activities. July and August are not the best times to visit the Mojave Desert but is a good time to hit the beaches or the mountains to escape the heat! Late spring and early fall are usually quite comfortable in most areas. If it is winter and you have decided you want to become a camper, use the time now to research your options and acquire and prepare your equipment and to learn about necessary camping skills so you'll be ready when the first robin of spring shows up. By the time the snow melts you'll be chomping at the bit to get out and try out your new toys and skills.  If, per chance, you are REALLY anxious to get started, look into winter camping.  It takes some special preparations, but it can be well worth it.

Once you've decided to try camping, how do you get started? First, take inventory of the resources you may already have. Do you have an SUV or other vehicle you could sleep in or use to tow a trailer? If so, you might start your camping adventure using that as your "RV". Just pack up some blankets and pillows and some food. Since you'll have limited resources on board, it might be good to start out staying in developed campgrounds where you will have access to picnic tables, fire pits, and restrooms. You may have to add a camp stove or portable BBQ and a cooler if you don't already have them. To keep the cost down, check out local classified ads and Internet sources such as ebay and craigslist. Watch for sales a local sporting goods stores or other places that sell camping equipment. I once bought a brand new 7'x7' umbrella tent for $10 at a sidewalk sale at a hardware store. It was missing one piece of the frame that I was able to fabricate from thin wall conduit for a couple of bucks. Garage sales are another good resource for adding to your camping equipment. Many people have excess camping equipment they've accumulated over the years or things they no longer need as their camping lifestyle as evolved and you can sometimes get extraordinary bargains at garage sales. Many times it has seen little use and may even be brand new!  Do your homework before you go shopping so you'll know a good deal when you see one. I wouldn't pay much more than $25 for a used Coleman lantern at a garage sale because new ones aren't that much more expensive (around $40). But for $10 or $15 it might be worth having if it is pretty much complete. Tents are another good thing to look for at garage sales. You probably won't get the latest models, but you may get a good price on older units that can serve you well. I bought a 10x14 canvas cabin tent through a local classified newspaper for under $50. It had a few rips that needed repairing, but with just a little TLC it was perfectly serviceable. I originally bought it to use for a portable dirt bike garage when were were camping, but ended up also using it on some tent camping ventures. If you can, try out camp stoves and lanterns before buying them. By the time they get in garage sales they've often been in storage a long time and may need reconditioning before they can be used, even if they haven't been used much. But don't be afraid of making repairs if they are complete and appear to be in good overall condition. I would shy away from gas stoves or lanterns if the pressure tanks leak. The pumps that pressurize them dry out but can be rebuilt easily and inexpensively, so it isn't a big deal if the pump leaks;  Sometimes all it needs is a few drops of oil to soften and swell the leather washer inside.  But if the fuel tank is rusted through or the seams are leaking, it will have to be replaced. Other components are also easy and fairly cheap to replace: control valves and generators. The generator is a tube that converts liquid fuel to vapor to power the stove or lantern. Check out previous post "What Should You Have To Begin Camping, RVing, and/or OHVing?   for more equipment details.

Next steps. Once you have acquired the basic equipment, learn how to use it. I suggest setting up camp in your own back yard a few times before venturing out. That way, if you've forgotten anything or run into to any problems, you are where you can quickly and easily deal with them and where your comfort, safety, and survival aren't in jeopardy. Next I would suggest camping in developed campgrounds close to home where you will have access to support facilities and knowledgeable camp hosts. Once you're comfortable in that environment, you might might be ready to venture out to more primitive camp sites and more challenging adventures.

Getting started OHVing. As much fun as it would be to buy everyone in the family brand new OHVs, if you're anything like me, it isn't in the budget. We started out with just two dirt bikes, both Kawasakis: a KE 125 dual sport bike for my wife and I and a KD80M for the boys who were about 8 and 10 at the time. We didn't yet appreciate the appeal it would have for the younger kids. It didn't take long to figure out we needed more bikes for more riders so we started checking out the local classifieds for some good deals. Even the youngest children wanted their own bikes, and getting them was one of the best investments we ever made! You can usually save quite a bit of money buying from a private party but whenever you do the seller won't assume any liability so if the bike breaks down the next day, you're stuck with it. A reputable dealer will usually give at least a 30 day warranty on used vehicles but you will pay more than you will if you purchase from a private party. Be sure to ask for maintenance records when you buy from a private party. You will need to make your purchase plans based at least in part you your own skills and ability to recognize and take care of any problems that might come up. You don't have to start out on dirt bikes. If you and your family are more interested in ATVs, look for some good used ATVs. ATVs are somewhat more stable for novice riders, but we had really good luck putting our "younguns" on 50cc dirt bikes. Sometimes they needed training wheels for a while, sometimes their bicycle skills were already good enough to safely handle the little motorcycle. Remember, an OHV needs to feel good to the rider and be fun to ride. If you don't feel comfortable on it or it isn't fun to ride, look for another vehicle. Size, power, suspension, seat and handlebar design and setup all affect how a vehicle feels, so don't be afraid to try a variety of configurations. If a vehicle feels too big, try a smaller one. If it feels unstable or "squirrely", try a bigger one. If it is too powerful for your current skills and taste, get one with a smaller engine or just take it easy for a while. If the suspension and setup aren't right, see if they can be adjusted to your size and weight and riding ability. Even while looking to buy your first OHV, start developing a network of fellow riders you can go out with for the first few trips. Having experienced leaders to guide you will greatly enhance your enjoyment the first few times out and you'll learn a lot of good riding, maintenance, repair, and navigation tips. So pay attention!

Entering the RV lifestyle. You may someday want to explore the RV lifesytle as a more comfortable alternative to tent camping. Here you will need to do more homework to determine which type of RV is right for you and then to find one within your budget. I offer my own experience as one possible path. Yours may be different. My first "RV" was a 1951 Chevrolet Suburban. It began life as a utility vehicle for a school district. When I bought it, it had only a front seat and the back was completely open. I made curtains for the windows. My wife and I slept in sleeping bags on the floor. I fashioned supports to fit across the rear compartment, resting on the window sills. I put a "bunky board" from an old set of bunk beds on the supports to provide a second sleeping level for our two kids. A plastic basin and a couple of 5-gallon water jugs, an ice chest, a camp stove, a Coleman lantern, and a couple of camp chairs completed our equipment list. Our first trip was exciting and quite pleasant. It was so nice to roll into camp, roll out our sleeping bags, and be ready to rest while other people were still wrestling with setting up tents in the wind and the dark! The sturdy old Suburban was also much more comfortable in the wind and rain than a tent. No uncontrolled flapping and no leaks! And no rocks under our sleeping bags.

After several years of camping in the Suburban, I found a good deal on a Class B motorhome (van conversion) and we began to move up. It was fundamentally a 3/4 ton Ford van conversion. I learned it had been custom built for an engineer who was working and living in Israel. It was not fully self contained, but was definitely a step up from the Suburban. It had a small refrigerator that ran on propane or 12-volt electricity. We felt we were in the lap of luxury making ice cubes while driving down the road. It had a real sink and faucet and a propane stove and a tiny little propane heater with no fan. The rear dinette made down into a comfortable full size bed and the kids were once again relegated to the "penthouse". Their bunks were up in the "pop top" that gave stand-up headroom (a definite improvement over the old Suburban). It even had a porta-potty tucked away in one of the cabinets, a definite advantage for women and children.

Eventually our family outgrew the Class B van conversion. It worked really well for 2 adults and a couple of small kids, but by the time our kids started getting bigger and our brood had grown to 4 children, we needed more room. There was barely room for even 4 of us to stand in the little Class B, let alone perform routine functions such as cooking and setting the table or getting ready for bed without climbing over each other. Our next step was a 19' Class C motorhome. It was a "bunkhouse" model with tons of sleeping capacity -- designed for at least 6 adults. You could probably squeeze in 7 if you put three people in the cab-over sleeper, but I figure you'd better be pretty good friends -- or you certainly would be by morning! This was our first nearly self-contained motorhome. I say nearly because it didn't have a generator. But it did have a hot water heater and full bathroom facilities plus a stove and oven and a real, forced air furnace. It even had a swamp cooler for hot days. We soon learned one of the disadvantages of a swamp cooler when we tried to use it while traveling. Even a normal lane change would cause the water in the cooler to slosh over and spill into the interior of the coach, soaking anyone and anything beneath it! This little Class C became our base of operations for our first dirt bike trips. We hung a pair of basket carriers on the front and back and loaded up a couple of dirt bikes and headed out into the Mojave Desert for some good family fun. My older boys' previous BMX bike experience served them well and they were soon showing ME how to jump a dirt bike. They took to that dirt bike like they had been born to it! A 19' Class C doesn't provide much walking around room, but preparing and serving meals and getting ready for bed was much less cramped than in the little van conversion and sleeping accommodations were a lot better. Having access to full sanitation facilities was a real blessing while dry camping in the desert (especially with a wife and two daughters!) where the nearest restrooms were at least 12 miles away. It is amazing how good a nice shower feels after a day in the sun and dirt!

I won't bore you with the rest of the step-by-step migration to our current Class A diesel pusher. Suffice it to say, our needs and wants grew over time and we continued to upgrade as appropriate opportunities presented themselves. As we observed fellow campers and inspected other rigs we began to see the advantages of features we had previously considered unnecessary or frivolous. The front lounge we once considered a big waste of space became a necessity after a couple of trips with 6 kids in one without it! But you get the idea of how your camping experience can evolve over time. Your first RV might be a tent trailer or a truck camper or small travel trailer instead of an old Suburban. You need to do what is right for YOU, not blindly follow what I, or anyone else, has done or tells you to do. Most important of all, DO SOMETHING!

What about kids? There have been attempts by well-intentioned but ill-informed do-gooders to prevent youngsters from riding OHVs. No doubt other activities have also been targeted, ranging from rifle skills to little league baseball. For the most part, these folks are WAY off the mark. OHV riding, starting kids out young has its place in OHV riding and other camping activities. Of course it must be done responsibly. What is REALLY irresponsible is to deny youngsters the opportunity to learn early. Our youngest son began dirt biking when he was less than 4 years old. We were at Spring Fling, our annual spring vacation outing in the Mojave Desert in April when he began seriously asking to ride. We told him he'd have to learn to ride his bicycle without training wheels before he could try riding the little 50-cc bike his brothers and sisters learned on. When we got home from that trip he jumped out of the motorhome and ran to get his bike. He brought it back and laid it down on the parking strip as we were sill unloading our motorcycles and announced firmly "Take 'em off!", pointing to his training wheels. He spent the next month vigorously practicing and on the very next trip for Memorial Day, he rode 13 miles of a Poker Run on a little motorcycle with wheels about the size of a pie plate -- and wanted more! Our other kids didn't start out quite as young, but everyone of them was a competent rider before they hit first grade. I've seen plenty of teens get hurt trying to learn to ride later in their lives. By then they're beginning to feel the invincibility that comes with being a teenager and too often think they can do anything their friends can do, without admitting their friends have been riding and developing skills for years. One of my oldest son's friends even had to be air-lifted out of a remote area with a broken collar bone after failing to negotiate a sharp turn and going over the bars trying to keep up with his more experienced friends. We started our kids out sitting on the gas tank and giving them rides. It allowed them to experience the sights, sounds, and feel of riding and let us explain the function of throttle, brake, and clutch so it would all be familiar when they finally got to ride their own little bikes. The tiny 50-cc motorcycles they started on didn't have clutch levers, just a centrifugal clutch that helped reduce the number of simultaneous skills they had to master. These little bikes are often fitted with devices to restrict throttle movement and reduce power through exhaust restrictors to make them pretty mellow for novice riders and allow them to "grow" with the rider's skills. Our youngest daughter started out on a 50-cc Italjet when she was about 5. Eventually, by the time she was in about the 3rd grade, she had inherited a 60-cc Honda from an older brother and could keep up with anyone. The Honda was a "real" motorcycle, with clutch lever and 6-speed transmission. When she was about 12 or 13 she astonished mature riders as she stayed right on their back fenders through all kinds of difficult terrain on her 125cc Kawasaki. Upon returning from one ride, one of the very good adult riders commented that he "had a kid on his tail" the whole ride and couldn't shake him and when they got to the top of Government Peak the kid took off his helmet and the adult rider was blown away to discover "it was a chick!" Whenever you start riding -- or start your kids riding -- make sure to wear proper protective gear. NEVER ride without a helmet. Proper boots, gloves, goggles, and appropriate jersey and pants plus kidney belt knee guards and chest protectors should be worn for every ride. I also like elbow protectors that put a lot more between your funny bone and rocks or hard ground than the soft pads in your jersey. Believe me, hitting your funny bone on the rocks is NOT funny! NEVER ride in a T-shirt or tank top! You may think it looks and feels cools, but between sun and windburn and the road rash you'll pick up if you bail, it just isn't worth it and you'll actually feel cooler in a vented jersey that protects your arms from direct sunlight. Avoid dark colors that will absorb the heat and make you harder to see.

Weekends are the most common time for camping, RVing, and OHVing.   But they aren't the only time you can go, if you can get away from your daily grind.  Mid-week outings can be less crowded and less stressful and are good times to explore new places and activities.  Once you're comfortable with your outdoor routine you can go just about any time.  Summer vacations and 3-day weekends give you some extra time to enjoy the great out doors.

One you get started, get out as often as you can.  When our kids were growing up we went dirt biking almost every holiday weekend.  The timing was just about right, far enough apart to look forward to each outing and close enough together so we could retain our confidence and continue to learn and improve things on each trip.  I would suggest setting a goal of getting out once a month for the same reasons.

Start NOW!

General Camp Site Lighting

It can get REALLY dark in camp.  Most of us live in urban or suburban environments with lots of street lights and light pollution from office buildings, shopping malls, parking lots, traffic, and neighbor's homes and have no idea how dark it can be on a moonless night in a remote area.   Even if you aren't within the glow of streetlights etc, the reflection off clouds or even air pollution creates a glow from remote cities etc. that usually illuminates the darkness to some extent in urban and suburban areas.  It can be surprising -- even frightening for some people -- how dark it gets when you get away from the city!  Moonless nights in the desert or forest are extremely dark.   Deep woods often filter enough moonlight to make it almost like there is no moon at ground level in some forests, even when there is a full moon.   If you are an RVer, you will usually have some built-in indoor lighting (as long as your batteries hold up).  Most RVs have one or more outside "porch" lights that illuminate the area next to the RV entrance.  For more distant activities or for tent camping you'll need portable light sources.  Some older travel trailers and truck campers had propane powered lights but you aren't likely to see them very often these days.  Even units that did have them have often been converted entirely to 12-volt lighting long ago.  One feature of propane lights was that they gave off quite a bit of heat, helping to warm a camper on chilly evenings, but during warmer times that was a distinct disadvantage.

Flashlights are one of the least expensive and most convenient and versatile sources of portable illumination.  You can often even find them at "dollar" stores.  These plastic bargains are usually not very durable but they can provide many hours of illumination at a very low cost.  They are also an attractive option if you have people (like children) who tend to break or lose track of things easily. The loss or destruction of a $1.00 flashlight is no big deal.  Dollar stores often  have fairly nice little aluminum pocket LED flashlights that are fairly durable, efficient, and quite attractive.  There are also high-end flashlights made of aircraft grade aluminum that are far more durable and often even waterproof, but they can be quite expensive -- upwards of $25-$50.  Cheap flashlights are usually not adjustable; better units can often be adjusted so the beam casts a spot light or flood light pattern. Flashlights are ideal for individual use in moving around in the dark and for many camp tasks. Traditional flashlights use a small incandescent bulb but today you can also buy flashlights with multiple LEDs that use far less power and both batteries and the LEDs last a lot longer than when using ordinary bulbs.  My wife and I both carry small, LED flashlights powered by AA or AAA batteries in our fanny packs and/or tool kits when we go dirt biking.  They will provide much needed illumination for any after-dark repairs on the trail and for signaling if needed.  We used to use regular "mini-mag" lights.  They are sturdy and effective but the little LED lights don't weigh as much and don't take up as much room and the batteries in the LED lights will last a lot longer and LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs.   In addition to a standard on-off switch, most flashlights have a push-button that can be used to turn the light on momentarily to aid in signaling.  You should at least know the Morse Code signal for S.O.S. -- three dots, three dashes, three dots.  When signalling with a light that means three quick flashes, three slow flashes, and three quick flashes.  Urban myths equate S.O.S. to Save Our Souls or Save Our Ship, but it reality it was simply the ease of signally S.O.S. in Morse code that led to the use of S.O.S. for an emergency signal.  The cute, if historically inaccurate, phrases now associated with it do serve as useful memory aids.

Multi-purpose lights.  As with just about any camping gadget, multi-purpose lights are attractive since they can serve many uses without the weight and space requirements of separate items.  One I've found particularly convenient came from Harbor Freight. It is an LED light with a focused LED spot light on one end and a bank of LEDs in a flood light configuration on one flat side. It cost under $3.00 with a coupon. It measures about 2"x3"x3/4", is light weight, and takes up little space in pocket, purse or pack, yet provides a lot of light. It has a built in plastic hook so you can hang it in your tent on or a convenient branch. It also has a magnet if you need to attach it to your vehicle -- or your camp stove.  Some larger camp lanterns also feature both spot and flood light options. Keep your eye out for potentially useful items everywhere you go.  I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns shaped like old-fashioned kerosene lanterns at a discount store for $10 each and small solar camping lanterns for just $2.00 each.  The kerosene style lanterns have 17 LEDs, a dimmer for controlling brightness, and run on 3 "D" cell batteries.  I once left one on in my barn overnight and it was still bright the next day when I discovered it and turned it off and was still functional for months afterwards.  Leave an ordinary incandescent battery light on overnight and you'll have dead batteries by morning.   I've even seen a single incandescent bulb left on in an RV drain the big 12-volt deep cycle house battery in an afternoon!

Wide area lighting may be needed for some activities, such as preparing, serving, and eating meals and for many games, chopping wood, or repairing equipment.  Some RVs are or can be equipped with wide-angle lighting but the traditional camp standard is the gas lantern.   The long-time standard camping lantern is the Coleman gas lantern, but today's lanterns come in many sizes, shapes, and fuel choices.  Some of my favorite exterior lights came off of an old ambulance.  They provide excellent flood lighting for night time repairs and other activities, but the bulbs are difficult to find and quite expensive.  Fortunately, they are quite durable.

Awning lights are popular for use on RV awnings.   Some folks string 120-volt patio lanterns along the accessory rail on the awning.   Smaller strings, similar to Christmas lights are also frequently used.  You can find these in various camping themes like mini Coleman lanterns, American flags, and chili peppers.  You could even use ordinary Christmas lights.  Awning lights provide festive illumination for activities under or near your RV awning.  The latest additions include programmable, multi-colored LED rope lights that can put on quite a show.  LED lights will use less power than incandescent versions and won't heat up and possibly damage the awning fabric.  One word of caution when using awning lights:  be considerate of your neighbors.  Excessive lighting might intrude into their space.

White-gas or propane powered lanterns provide a bright white light almost like an electric light bulb.   They also produce quite a bit of heat.  A friend of mine used one as the only heat source for his Class B motorhome on cool evenings.  They might be enough to take the chill off in your motorhome or tent, but always make sure you have adequate ventilation or you could succumb to fumes or suffocate due to lack of oxygen.  One other significant feature of these lanterns is that the mantles are quite fragile. They are made of silk ash.  When they are new they are little silk mesh socks you tie onto the gas outlets of the lanterns.  They are then burned to turn them into ash, which glows brightly when the gas is lit, giving off the characteristic bright white light.  Always bring plenty of spare mantles.  It doesn't take much to break them once they've been burned.  Anytime you use a gas lantern inside an RV or tent or other confined space make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation (yes, it is worth repeating -- repeating and repeating!).

Kerosene lanterns lend an old-fashioned touch to camping.  They are a little less fragile than gas lanterns because they use a standard, sturdy cotton wick instead of the delicate silk ash mantle.  The wick also makes them a little more flexible in the level of light than gas lanterns. They are not nearly as bright and the light is not as white as a gas lantern, but they are economical to purchase and to operate and lend a nice ambiance.  They are usually less expensive to buy than gas lanterns, often under $10. At one time the fuel was commonly used in many homes for lanterns and heaters so everyone already had fuel.  It is seldom used in our urban and suburban homes today but it is still readily available.  One potential downside is that kerosene gives off a distinctive odor similar to jet fuel (which is actually kerosene).   If you don't like the smell of burning kerosene you can burn fragrant lamp oils or odorless "liquid paraffin".   Use citronella oil to help keep the bugs away.   You can usually find kerosene lanterns at farm and ranch stores, at some sporting goods stores and I've even seen them at Walmart.

There are many battery powered lanterns available where ever camping goods are sold.  Some use square 6-volt batteries, some use multiple "D" or "C" cells, some are rechargeable.  Some even have built-in solar chargers to recharge them during the day.  You can even get lanterns with remote controls so you can turn them off after you've already snuggled into your sleeping bag.  One of my favorite tent lights is very small and runs on "AAA" batteries.   It has a florescent tube for area lighting and a focused bulb on one end so it can be used as a directed flashlight.  It is small enough to fit easily into a shirt pocket or fanny pack (about the size of  three ball point pens) and runs on two "AAA" batteries.  These days I'd look for an LED model.   LEDs are much cooler and significantly more efficient than incandescent bubls.   I recently acquired a couple of LED lanterns designed to look like kerosene lanterns.  They have 17 LEDs on a dimmer switch, powered by 3 D cell batteries. The LEDs have a projected life of over 100,000 hours and the way LEDs sip energy, the 3 D cells will last a long time. I've already used them at home for several hours and they show no signs of degradation.  I even left one on overnight in my barn and it was still burning bright the next morning when I went out.  Try that with ordinary incandescent lights and the batteries would be dead dead dead by morning.

Candles are another old-fashioned and inexpensive lighting solution.  Citronella candles on your picnic table also help keep bugs away.  Exercise caution when using candles inside of an RV and be especially careful or avoid using them altogether in your tent.  Candles are very susceptible to breezes.   There are lantern-like candle holders that protect the flame from the breeze and to some extent, provide extra safety if the candle gets knocked over. Candles give off some dangerous fumes and do consume oxygen, so always use them with adequate ventilation.  You can make your own decorative candle "lanterns" from discarded tin or aluminum cans by punching a design into them using an awl or ordinary nails.  Some folks like to paint them flat black so they look more like lanterns.

Tiki torches are often used for back yard and patio illumination and, if you have room to bring them camping, they would provide a nice touch to an evening's activities.  Use some citronella oil in the them and they double as insect repellant.  Do not use tiki torches inside a tent or RV or under an awning or canopy.  If space is at a premium, look for torches that can be broken down into small components you can tuck them in cabinets or camping tubs more easily.  I've seen large candles on a stick that are designed for similar backyard or camping use.

Solar lights provide a safe and energy efficient way to have modest illumination in camp.   They aren't going to light up the campground like a baseball stadium, but they are sufficient to light the pathways, mark tent pegs, and even illuminate your camp stove and dinner table.  And they aren't expensive.   I've even seen them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.  Some were stake-style yard lights and some were designed to look like little rocks (except for the solar panel on top and the lens on one side).  You can probably add a bail or handle and remove the stakes on the yard or pathway lights so you can hang them in your tent or from your RV awning.  I even found a couple of solar powered tent lights at a discount store for $2.00 each.  They are each about the size of a soup can but are sufficient for comfortable tent lighting -- unless you're doing something that requires more intense light, like needle work or surgery!

Custom camp lights can be as creative as you feel like being.  Some of the innovations I've seen and used include bright white flood lights salvaged from a wrecked ambulance and mounted to the wall of my RV and trailer to light up the work area around my motorcycle trailer and a 500-watt 120 volt Halogen yard work light I mounted on a staff that fastens to the ladder of my motorhome when we want to light up the whole campsite for group activities.  Many RVers attach strings of festive lights to their awnings. These are usually more for decoration than illumination, yet can still provide a nice glow for your "patio party" and are available in a variety of shapes and colors.  One of my favorites for general camping is a Christmas light like string of tiny lights shaped like Coleman lanterns.  You might choose lighted chilis for a Mexican themed party or American flags for the 4th of July. The possibilities are endless.   Ordinary Christmas lights could also be used. I suggest going for the new LED lights.  They have bright colors, use little power, and don't get hot like incandescent bulbs, reducing the risk of scorching your awning or canopy -- or your fingers should you happen to touch one.   Rope lights are also popular as awning lights.   Plain white provides comfortable illumination and there are some fancy (but somewhat pricey) multi-colored version with multiple flash patterns and remote controls.

Work lights of various sorts may be needed.   If you have a generator you might use an ordinary drop light, but there are LED,  florescent and incandescent 12-volt work lights you can buy for use on battery power in and around your RV or other vehicle. Some use flashlight batteries and are completely portable; some plug into your 12 volt socket.   A camping lantern can also be used for illuminating a general work area and an ordinary flashlight can be used in close quarters.

Chemical light sticks are good for markers to highlight obstacles or people and to provide some light for moving around.   They usually aren't bright enough for reading or any serious activities, such as cooking, repairing equipment, or playing board or card games.   I did find they were a good substitute for the burning sticks the kids liked to drag out of the fire and wave around.   They lasted longer and eliminated the danger of someone or something getting accidentally set on fire!  I tried attaching them to our "Desert Rat" signs at night to help guide latecomers to camp, but kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them.  I keep one in my fanny pack (safely stored in a short piece of PVC pipe capped on both ends (but not glued).  It may not provide a lot of light for emergency night time repairs on the trail, but it would be better than nothing and any kind of light can provide comfort if you're stuck out for very long.   They can be used for signaling and may even help keep wild animals away.  A light stick is usually adequate to light your way to the latrine at night too.

Strobe lights are sometimes used as markers to aid late arrivals in locating our OHV camps in the desert.  The ones I've used for years are dome-shaped units with suction cups on the bottom and are wired to plug into a cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle on the outside of my motorcycle trailer.   I've seen really fancy LED "starburst" lights designed for the top of a flagpole that would be even more visible from a distance.  Of course you wouldn't want to use something that bright in a developed campground where it would annoy your fellow campers but it works well in the open desert where we usually have plenty of space between camps.

Natural light.  Moonlight is often adequate for many camp activities when the moon is near full. I've seen it light enough during a full moon in the desert to even ride OHVs (cautiously) without needing headlights.  During a new moon you'll need supplemental light sources, unless you and your companions have the eyes of a cat!   For best results, avoid wiping out your night vision by exposing your eyes to bright lights inside your RV.  When you first step out of a brightly lit RV into a moonlit night, you'll be nearly blind for several minutes until your eyes adapt to the darkness.  If you do need temporary auxiliary light, try using a red filter on your flashlight.   That will usually let you see what you need to see with minimal affect on night vision.   A red flashlight would be useful for illuminating the firewood pile so you don't mess up your night vision.    I find using red filters especially helpful when working with telescopes for star gazing.  They provide sufficient light to assemble and adjust the optics and read star charts and don't trigger the restriction of the pupils like bright white does.

Firelight retains the ambiance of camping.  For large gatherings, a big bonfire might be appropriate.  For more intimate occasions, keep the fire small and add a few Tiki torches if you need more light.  You can fuel the Tiki torches with citronella lamp oil to help keep the bugs away so they're especially good around the picnic table or other eating or sitting areas.  Sometimes having several small fires is more effective and efficient than one big one.

Tent lighting.   I strongly favor battery powered lights for use in tents and other small enclosed spaces.  Any kind of flame-powered light includes the risk of setting the tent on fire and suffocation as the flame consumes available oxygen.  If you MUST use your Coleman or kerosene lantern in a tent, exercise extreme caution and keep a couple of windows open an inch or two for cross ventilation.  Just touching the hot glass globe to a tent wall or sleeping bag can melt it beyond repair, so be VERY careful using any kind of flame device inside a tent.  The close quarters in most tents means you have to be careful not to touch the lantern globe.   It becomes VERY hot and will blister your skin instantly.   My favorite tent light is powered by a couple of AA batteries and includes a spot light and a general illumination flood light.  An LED version would be ideal since the batteries will last longer.

Searchlights and spotlights can be helpful in locating a remote camp when boondocking and for searching for errant campers who may have wandered away from camp in the dark.   Remote control searchlights mount on the roof of RVs and usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings so they can be used for general camp site lighting in "flood" mode or as a beacon or search light in "spot" mode  (helpful finding signs).  Though not as popular as they once were, spotlights that can be mounted on the windshield post of many vehicles can help locating signs and landmarks when searching for a remote camp at night.  In a pinch you might use them to light up an area for after-dark equipment maintenance.   Portable spotlights can also come in handy.  I've seen them with ratings in the range of 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 candle power, having range up to a mile!  I've seen some that used ordinary flashlight batteries, some that are 12-volt powered (connect to a 12-volt cigarette light style receptacle) and even some that are rechargeable.

Trail lighting.  Many ATVs are equipped with headlights so night time operation is often viable. Dirt bikes (especially those designed for motocross), on the other hand, usually don't have headlights unless they are Enduro style bikes or have been modified.  The magnetos on many dirt bikes are not designed to handle the demands of lighting so you may have to upgrade the electrical system if you plan to add lights.  Baja Designs provides light kits for most off-road bikes.  A friend of mine upgraded the electrics on his dirt bike and added a 55 watt halogen driving light as a headlight.  Man, did that light up the trail! We called it the "bush burner".  In an emergency I've seen guys tape flashlights to their handlebars, front fenders, or helmets, but the light pattern is very limited and most flashlights won't last long,  especially given the constant bouncing and vibration to say nothing of the quick battery drain by incandescent bulbs. Unless they are LED flashlights they will drain the batteries pretty quickly, leaving you in the dark again. I picked up a specially designed helmet mounted light but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Chemical light sticks might be used to make the vehicle more visible but they won't provide enough light to see where you're going. Flashlights are very good options for night time hiking. You should have at least one on your person on any hike, just in case you are out after dark. In an emergency you might use duct tape or cable ties to secure a flashlight to the handlebars or front fender of your OHV for at least some lighting.

Emergency signaling.  If you get lost or your OHV breaks down and you're stuck out on the trails after dark, it may be a good idea to just stay put if you can't see where you're going unless you are in immediate danger if you stay where you are.  A flashlight or light stick can make you and your vehicle more visible to searchers or any other riders who may come along and you may be able to use them to flash an "S O S" (three short, three long, three short flashes).  If you think you'll be stuck out for any length of time or all night, you may want to try to get a fire going.   Fire will keep you warm, provide a visible signal for potential rescuers, and keep animals away.  If you use fuel from your OHV to start the fire, make sure your OHV is far enough away from the fire to avoid lighting it up -- and make sure the fuel is shut off before moving your OHV!   For a couple of examples of the consequences of failing to follow this advice, check out the movies "On Any Sunday" and On Any Sunday II".   In "On Any Sunday" the rider manages to set his bike on fire because it is too close to his signal fire.  In "On Any Sunday II" he carefully moves the bike a safe distance away before lighting his fire -- but he had disconnected the fuel line to soak the wood to make getting his fire going easier and forgot to shut it off, leaving a trail of fuel from the fire pit to his bike.  He lights his fire, it snakes a long the trail and "Poof!" his bike once again goes up in flames. On the one hand, a burning bike, will probably make a very good signal, especially once the magnesium parts start burning.   On the other hand, that's a pretty expensive signal fire!   It may be kind of amusing to watch in the movie, but I doubt if any of us would be laughing if it happened to us.  And once those magnesium parts start to burn you're going to have a heck of time putting out the fire without a Class D fire extinguisher.

Light it up!